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00:02Every year, millions of us flock to the houses and gardens of the National Trust.
00:09Taking a step back in time to delve into our history.
00:14When you see something forgotten for thousands of years, that's quite amazing.
00:19Whether in the grandest residence.
00:21This is the kind of room you walk into and you sort of go, oh my goodness.
00:25Or on a windswept island.
00:28Big moment for this little guy.
00:29That's what you want to see.
00:32But out of sight is a hidden world.
00:35Very few people, this whole world can go behind the scenes and you're one of them.
00:40Where an army of dedicated experts.
00:42I have never seen anything like this, it's absolutely bonkers.
00:46Are battling to save treasured objects.
00:48I've not yet smashed anything.
00:50Don't say that.
00:52Am I going to have to be here all day like this?
00:54Meow.
00:56Making new discoveries.
00:57How exciting.
00:59Look at that.
01:00Oh my goodness.
01:02That tell the history of us all.
01:05These objects still speak if you listen hard enough.
01:16This time, two of the Trust's most remote properties that have both inspired generations of pilgrims.
01:25A rugged island once home to a saint.
01:29St. Cuthbert's form of faith required that he be alone.
01:33And where better to come to be alone on a place like this.
01:36Whose hidden history is being uncovered by modern technology.
01:40If we can find some physical trace of the places where he lived and where he prayed, that would be
01:47truly extraordinary.
01:48And a modest farmhouse that shaped the soul of a nation.
01:52So this item played such a huge role in the whales we know today.
01:59And now needs saving from the elements.
02:03If this building was left to nature, it would just get wetter and wetter and it would become a ruin.
02:16We're starting to see the Farns Archipelago up here in front of us.
02:21Early morning, mid-summer.
02:24Just off the coast of Northumberland, collections and house manager Nick is on his regular commute to work.
02:31It never really gets normal.
02:34It's always very special to see some dolphins.
02:37That would be good.
02:40His destination, two miles out into the North Sea, is an archipelago of 28 tiny islands.
02:50The Farns are mysterious, they're intriguing.
02:53They are separate from us, but they're also just within reach.
02:57They have that kind of heavenly feel about them.
02:59That in itself is really compelling.
03:01And I think that draws people to it.
03:03Only a handful of the islands are accessible to the public, under tight restrictions,
03:09because of some very special visitors.
03:19It's an internationally important seabird colony,
03:22with hundreds of thousands of birds coming to the islands every breeding season.
03:29But I would argue of equal significance are the island's cultural heritage.
03:35Key to its heritage is a man who first arrived on the largest island,
03:41Inner Farn, over 1400 years ago.
03:46Well, the most important and most famous person that's ever inhabited in a Farn was St Cuthbert,
03:51who essentially founds the religious presence on this island.
03:55And he was here for a good few years back in the seventh century.
03:59And although there's not really anything left tangibly of his world today,
04:03Cuthbert's presence is very much the key thing here.
04:07Cuthbert was prior of the monastery on nearby Lindisfarne, also known as Holy Island,
04:14one of the most significant centers of Christianity in the early medieval British Isles.
04:21Seeking solitude and a place to worship in peace, he came to live on the Farn Islands.
04:28The appeal of this place is the tranquility.
04:30You're at one with nature, with God, with the heavens.
04:33It's all about that kind of location, that kind of endless sky and sea that you get.
04:39The island's 14th century chapel has long been the first port of call for pilgrims following in Cuthbert's footsteps.
04:47Its crowning glory is this later 19th century stained glass window.
04:53It depicts Cuthbert alongside his fellow Northumbrian saints, Aidan and Ethelwald.
05:01It's really vibrant. I think people really, really are wowed by it when they come in the door.
05:05You're not really expecting it, and you come in and bang, you get this colour.
05:15It's a real beauty, a real cracker.
05:18But because of where it is, it's on the east side of a chapel in the middle of the sea.
05:22It really gets the brunt of the bad weather.
05:25And so over the last 170 odd years, it's been hammered.
05:30The window's stunning as it is, but once it's cleaned and repaired, it could look...
05:35..incredible, like, even more amazing.
05:41Today, a team of stained glass conservators have arrived on Innerfarn
05:47to restore Cuthbert's windows to their former glory.
05:52I'd ideally want to take the top off first.
05:54Yeah, yeah, take the top off first, yes, definitely.
05:56Do you want me to come up with you?
05:57No, that's fine.
05:58The plan is for Alison and her team to carefully remove the six panes,
06:03then clean and repair the intricate glasswork at ground level.
06:08If the screws are nice and willing to come out, then it should be nice and easy.
06:12And if the screws are a bit tight or don't wanting to move,
06:16then it'll be a bit more tricky.
06:18Yeah, this one's coming.
06:20It might be just that one.
06:29It was pretty comprehensively repaired back in the 1990s,
06:32to the extent that it was actually taken out and taken to the mainland.
06:37I'm hoping we don't have to do something that drastic this time.
06:42I've not yet smashed anything.
06:45Don't say that. Touch wood.
06:47Because, you know, you've now been filmed.
06:48Hopefully today's not the day.
06:49So today would be the day.
06:51Every time I try to think that I can keep my cool now
06:54because I've done it so many times.
06:56I've taken, you know, stained glass windows at massive heights out before.
07:03But it's always nerve-wracking, especially, you know, it's a historical piece.
07:07It's priceless.
07:10After some gentle persuasion...
07:14Yep, right.
07:15..Cuthbert is ready for his first clean in 30 years.
07:22OK, so that's the reason we're taking it out,
07:25because of all the filth that's come out.
07:29Cuthbert lived a simple island life,
07:32but he continued to receive visitors and preach Christianity.
07:37He gained such legendary status that shortly after his death,
07:41he began to be venerated as a saint.
07:44Through the Middle Ages, right up until the dissolution,
07:46essentially, he becomes this figurehead of the North, essentially.
07:49His banner is carried into battle against the Scots.
07:52You know, you look around today, and I...
07:54You know, we see school groups coming to visit
07:55from St Cuthbert's Primary School.
07:57It still kind of comes right through into the modern period.
08:01The lower panes are all safely out.
08:04But as Victoria moves up to the smaller ones at the top...
08:08It's tight.
08:10..she hits a problem.
08:11I think we're going to have to have a think about
08:13how we're going to take that out.
08:15That should be filled in with lime mortar pointing.
08:17I would usually just go hard at it,
08:20but because of the delicacy of the stonework,
08:23I don't want to put any more pressure on it.
08:25The mortar around the window has crumbled away.
08:29You can see it moving.
08:31Leaving the stonework itself dangerously unstable.
08:35There's not a lot holding that, there, there...
08:40..and possibly there.
08:42Mm-hm.
08:43We've got to get the masons to have a proper look at it
08:46before we can carry on
08:48and start trying to get the glass out.
08:53Us moving the stained glass windows
08:56could mean that the stone ends up falling out
08:59and damage it even further.
09:02For now, the windows are staying put
09:04until the stone masons make it over from the mainland.
09:09It's a crossing that has been made
09:11by hundreds of thousands of people over the years.
09:15And like for so many pilgrims,
09:18it's a journey of deep, personal meaning.
09:22We probably all go on pilgrimages of some kind.
09:26We feel a familiarity with certain landscapes and places,
09:29and I think it has long been the case
09:31of people going to shrines to go to places
09:34for healing, for contemplation,
09:36meeting other people who are on that journey
09:39for their own individual reasons.
09:42Because of the solitude, because of the landscape,
09:44because of the beauty of it,
09:45that's something intimate.
09:47And it's really quite magical.
09:52200 miles from the Farn Islands,
09:55deep in a valley in the Gwydyr Forest in North Wales,
09:59sits a modest farmhouse
10:01that has also become an unlikely place of pilgrimage.
10:13The experience of the nature of the place starts, I think,
10:16when you come up through the trees.
10:21You're on your own, really.
10:22Yeah.
10:23The house and nature.
10:27But, yeah, you've got to really want to find it.
10:33Hiya.
10:34Hiya, lad.
10:35What's up?
10:36Yeah.
10:37Good luck.
10:38Good luck.
10:40There's been a property here since at least the 15th century.
10:44Although Timar translates as big house,
10:48this later building still only has two stories
10:51and a handful of rooms.
10:57Restored to reflect how it would have looked in the 16th century,
11:01Flir now cares for the building and the stories it holds.
11:06So I usually sort of greet the space in the morning.
11:11I just like to take just a little bit of silence
11:14to just set out the intention and the welcome
11:18that I wish for people to receive here.
11:26It's an ancient place.
11:28It doesn't have a voice, but it still speaks.
11:33And it speaks quiet.
11:38It holds its history, and I think it shares its history
11:42if you're quiet enough and can listen deep enough.
11:46There's layers to it, I think.
11:49The more time you spend there, the deeper you get to know it.
11:54It's an item within these four walls
11:56that draws people here from all around the world.
12:01So here at Timar, we have something that is of great national importance
12:05and meaning to the people of Wales.
12:07It's a treasure, really, that's an honour to look after
12:09and I can show you now.
12:16So this is the first translation of the complete Bible into the Welsh language.
12:21People come here from far and wide to come and witness and experience this
12:26because of its cultural importance and history for the people of Wales.
12:30The Welsh Bible is forever linked with Timar
12:33because it was the work of a man who was born and grew up here,
12:38William Morgan.
12:40It's often been said that Morgan's translation of the Bible
12:44saved the Welsh language or preserved it and stopped it from dying out.
12:50William was the son of John and Lowry Morgan,
12:54tenant farmers on the Timar estate.
12:57Back in the mid-16th century, the main building was a busy inn,
13:02providing shelter for passing cattle and sheep drovers.
13:09It would have been an incredible place of culture, language, song, poetry.
13:17And so William Morgan, without a doubt, would have heard a lot of these stories.
13:22He would have been able to be part of conversations and picked up on those cues
13:28that were enriching for his vocabulary.
13:34William's way with words was spotted at an early age.
13:38He was sent away to be educated by a local chaplain
13:42and later ordained as a clergyman.
13:45When Elizabeth I commissioned a Welsh Bible to help secure the Protestant church in Wales,
13:52Morgan was chosen to translate.
13:56William Morgan was really familiar with that kind of lyricism
14:00that's so integral to the language.
14:03That was all part of his culture.
14:04That was all part of what he learnt as a boy growing up at Timar.
14:08And all of that knowledge found its way into the text that he produced in 1588.
14:15It took William Morgan ten years to translate the Bible.
14:21A thousand copies were printed and distributed to every church in Wales.
14:26It's the reason why we are still here today speaking Welsh.
14:29It would have disappeared had the Bible not been translated into Welsh,
14:34taking along all the richness, all the culture, never to be seen again.
14:42Only around 60 copies of the original 1588 Bible survive.
14:48And this one is showing its age.
14:54The Trust owns about half a million books,
14:57but I think it's not a stretch to say that the copy of the 1588 Bible at Timar
15:03is one of its most important.
15:08Hello. Hi, Shannon.
15:10OK, welcome to Timar. Thank you.
15:12To preserve this piece of history,
15:15Fleer and Trust conservator Clare have called in help.
15:19It's nice to see it all in its glory.
15:22It's beautiful.
15:24Specialist book conservator Sharon must get the 1588 Bible
15:28stable enough to leave Timar.
15:32In a few months' time, it's going on display at the Senedd,
15:37the Welsh Parliament in Cardiff.
15:40Our copy of the 1588 Bible is going to visit the people of Wales
15:46rather than the other way round.
15:47Lovely. Thank you.
15:49It'll be quite special, I think.
15:53The text block is original, but the binding is later,
15:59which is starting to fail.
16:02Over its 450 years,
16:05this well-thumbed Bible has been patched up many times,
16:10with missing pages replaced by crude copies.
16:15The repairs are unsightly.
16:18They haven't aged very well.
16:19They've become quite brown and quite brittle,
16:23and there are a lot of them.
16:25Sharon must first deal with the dirt
16:28before she can address the damage to the cover and the many tears.
16:33The first thing I'm going to do is to surface clean the outside of the binding.
16:38I'm going to use a soft brush initially just to get rid of any loose dirt.
16:46This has been a well-used Bible, and it's clear that it has been loved and cherished and been important
16:52to so many people.
16:54I can be respectful of an item's age and its provenance and its value, but I place that to one
17:01side and then focus on the job I need to do.
17:06The pages look quite dirty.
17:09There's a little bit coming off, so I shall continue working my way through the text block.
17:14There's probably 500-plus leaves in this book, so I'm going to be cleaning for a while.
17:23Ever since the National Trust opened Timower's doors to the public in 1951,
17:30William Morgan's Bible has inspired thousands of visitors to seek out its birthplace.
17:36I don't think pilgrimage is always tied to faith, but certainly at Timower there's that layer of faith
17:43that's so kind of inherent to its story and the objects that are there.
17:47And I think people probably do come to the site now as a site of pilgrimage to come and see
17:53this object in its kind of spiritual home.
18:05On Inafarn, it's not just St Cuthbert that entices visitors from across the world.
18:11So we're going through the Arctic Terran colony at the moment, so it might get quite loud.
18:17And I have forgotten my hat, which is an error.
18:23Sophia is one of 12 National Trust rangers who work on the island, sharing it with around 200,000 seabirds.
18:34Sophia, I couldn't help but notice you've got a bit of poo on your head.
18:37Oh, I knew that would happen.
18:39The rangers stay on site for several days at a time.
18:45I've come to Red Wing today.
18:46Oh, nice. That's a classic.
18:48Yeah, that was great.
18:49And are entrusted with the upkeep of the island for visitors of all types.
18:56The day in the life of a ranger is, I think, the most varied role that one can have.
19:01This morning, for example, we were rescuing pufflings from that lighthouse compound, pumping seawater, fixing boardwalk.
19:11It's never quite the same.
19:13To be a Farne Islands ranger, you've got to like the island life.
19:18You're not going to be watching Netflix every evening with your fancy coffee machine.
19:24There's no Wi-Fi.
19:25There's no water supply.
19:27You've got to like a bit of rough in it.
19:33OK. I think this is about the centre of the plot.
19:36It's a lovely borough.
19:37Well used.
19:38One of the rangers' most important jobs is taking a census of the winged visitors who come to breed here
19:46over the summer months.
19:48From razorbills, shags and Arctic terns to the island's star attraction.
19:59I think everybody has a love for puffins.
20:02I think it's something about their character.
20:04They're quite comical.
20:06They just act in, well, I want to say silly ways.
20:10Because I guess they're so used to being out at sea that when they're on land, it can just seem
20:14like they're just...
20:16Yeah, they just march around, don't they?
20:21Puffins are believed to have been spending summer on the farns long before Cuthbert ever set foot here.
20:29OK, so there is poo in the swan.
20:32Today, Sophia and Heather are searching their burrows.
20:39So I think it's occupied.
20:41Where pairs of puffins raise their chicks, called pufflings, several feet underground.
20:49It's quite deep.
20:50Doesn't look very occupied, that one.
20:52I have to say, I was not expecting to see your arm disappear that far down the bar.
20:56Yeah, yeah.
20:57When you put your hand down a burrow, it can be quite daunting, because you don't really know what to
21:00expect, whether you're going to get the beak end of a puffin or the fluffy end of a puffin.
21:05There's an important reason behind this puffin roulette.
21:10Each occupied burrow means another pair of returning puffins, whose numbers in recent years have taken a worrying turn.
21:25They're globally in decline.
21:27They face risks on the mainland, such as rats and ground predators.
21:32And then they've got climate change, changing the temperature of the sea, pushing where their food is further away.
21:39So they've got a lot of challenges ahead of them.
21:41So the rangers are counting them, one burrow at a time.
21:47Oh, there is something in here.
21:49Can you use someone home?
21:51Do you think puffling or puffin?
21:53I think puffin.
21:55Following standard puffin handling procedure...
21:58So we're just going to put a bag over it, it just keeps them calm.
22:01..this adult male is safely bagged.
22:04Lovely.
22:06Sophia and Heather must work fast to harvest as much personal data as possible.
22:13First, they tag him.
22:15Any puffin you see with a blue colouring has come from Farne Islands.
22:19Then, give him a weigh-in.
22:21It looks a bit undignified, but...
22:23Just pop it head-first in there.
22:26So that's 425 with the bag.
22:29Before measuring the size of his beak.
22:33All right, little dude.
22:36Once checked over, the puffin is free to go.
22:43They only come to land for three months of the year,
22:45so it's really important we get all the research we can from them
22:48while they're raising their chick on the island.
22:52So 18 occupied burrows and three unoccupied burrows.
22:56So that is good.
22:58That is good for this patch.
22:59It's a lot more work to do.
23:02This is a bit more than a bit of slate, like.
23:04Over at the chapel, there's also more work to do on the wobbly windows.
23:10Mullions and everything's moving there, isn't there?
23:12Alison is showing stonemason John the size of the task in hand.
23:18You can just see daylight, there's nothing in there.
23:21Yeah.
23:22Before the last panes of stained glass can be removed for cleaning,
23:27John needs to stabilise the loose masonry.
23:31Let's get some more slate on this side.
23:35Well, getting these slate puckers in, just to hold it into its bit.
23:40So he just wedged it?
23:41Wedged it in, yeah.
23:43The wedges should hold the stonework steady while they carry out repairs.
23:50If we didn't do this now, you'd be in serious danger of losing the full window.
23:58At the top of the tower, Nick is getting his own bird's eye view
24:03of the island that Cuthbert called home.
24:06It's quite a difficult task to try and describe how it might have looked for Cuthbert.
24:11Beyond the fact that we don't think much has changed.
24:13Living on this island, it can't have been easy.
24:16I suppose that adds to the allure of the guy that he was able to come out
24:19and not only do that, but also be able to do what he wanted to do,
24:22which was to ultimately pray.
24:25Despite the island being just a few hundred metres wide,
24:28no evidence of where Cuthbert lived and worshipped
24:321400 years ago has ever been found.
24:37We're not certain at all where Cuthbert's cell was.
24:39We can make a few educated guesses based on the sources that we have,
24:43but also the research that we're doing at the moment as well.
24:47To try and locate it,
24:49last year a team of archaeologists carried out a preliminary survey of the island.
24:56Now, they're taking things a step further.
24:59It's incredibly exciting to get archaeological work done on a farm.
25:03Given the significance of the place,
25:05the sort of longevity of the occupation of the farms,
25:07it's pretty incredible actually that no one's been out there with a trowel.
25:13It's such a great place to come and work.
25:15There are moments when I kind of think,
25:17are they paying me to work here?
25:19Under the watchful eye of archaeologist Mark...
25:23Good morning, how's it going? Hello.
25:26Over the next two weeks, the ground will be scanned and assessed
25:30using cutting-edge technology.
25:34Uncovering all those stories we don't even know exist at the moment.
25:36Exactly.
25:37Much of what is known about St Cuthbert
25:40comes from an account of his life written just 30 years after his death
25:45by the monk and early medieval historian, Bede.
25:50So Bede is really vivid about what Cuthbert did on the island,
25:54we might find archaeologically.
25:55It was a structure, almost round in plan,
25:58measuring about four or five poles, so 60 to 80 feet,
26:02from wall to wall.
26:04But inside he made it much higher by cutting away the living rock.
26:08So that gives us a sense of scale.
26:11It's not a hut with a cellar cut underneath it.
26:15This is a big thing.
26:19The most intriguing part of the site has to be that medieval complex on the north of the island.
26:24It's such an obvious location in Malina, the way it's given the protection by the lie of the land.
26:28You know, that's absolutely the first place to look.
26:30It's the sheltered part of the island, that's where boats can get in safely, that hasn't changed.
26:37This is my 38th year working with the National Trust as an archaeologist.
26:41We're doing this looking for the first time.
26:44It's really thrilling to think what might emerge in the next few days of work out there.
26:49While Mark and Nick prepare for the arrival of the archaeology team,
26:53at Team Hour, Clir is mopping up after a storm.
26:58I like picking the petals that have fallen to make tea.
27:04It's a nice place to be alone.
27:07Some visitors, when they do arrive after having the journey down here,
27:11they're quite surprised that there's anybody here at all.
27:14Clir first came to Team Hour on school trips,
27:18before joining the team welcoming visitors two years ago,
27:22drawing on the skills of her previous career.
27:28So I used to be a performer, performing for children, which is so much fun.
27:33I feel that being in Team Hour with it,
27:36still utilising storytelling skills, there's a theatrical element to it.
27:41I love that feeling of standing at the door.
27:46You know, just like the key, it's like the key to the nation's heart, really.
27:52As well as preserving William Morgan's story at Team Hour,
27:56the building itself also needs protecting.
28:04And Thir is about to oversee a very timely project.
28:10The weather here can be quite extreme, and the rainfall also.
28:14We're very exposed here to the elements,
28:17and it's this gable end wall here that gets the full force of that.
28:21The water was coming in at a degree that we couldn't stop.
28:26The beam itself above the fireplace had become saturated with water.
28:32Over the next few weeks, the building will be made watertight,
28:36using traditional methods that would have been used back in William Morgan's day.
28:44Imagine living there in the 15th or the 16th or the 17th century,
28:48and I guess not a huge amount has changed.
28:52It has to be a functioning building,
28:54and the Trust don't want to be mopping up puddles of water every time they open the door.
29:00Ned and his team will be repointing the mortar and lime washing the hole of the gable end.
29:07But first, they have to make it even wetter.
29:11The reason we're wetting the wall down is because we need to work onto a damp surface,
29:17so we want to control the suction when we come to repoint.
29:20So if I didn't wet this wall down and I put my lime waters in,
29:23they would fail at 100%, especially in this weather.
29:28There's only one outcome if nothing's done,
29:30which is that that building's just going to get wetter and wetter and wetter.
29:34It is a challenge, because it's not an easy building to keep dry.
29:37So, yeah, let's put our skills to the test here and see if we can do it.
29:42Although Ned needs to weatherproof the building
29:45to protect the 1588 Bible,
29:48that's not the only treasure that will be taking shelter at Tmaua.
29:56So, this is a really exciting day
29:59and is a culmination of an enormous amount of work
30:03and involves a brand new exhibition, which we're all really excited about.
30:09In a week's time, Tristan will be opening a unique library.
30:14Hello, Samae.
30:16Hi, hello.
30:16Tisnaw.
30:18Well, we're done.
30:18Well, we're done.
30:19We're done.
30:20Well, there's a four-year-old Bible.
30:25Ever since the 1588 Bible was put on display at Tmaua,
30:30people from all over the world have been paying tribute
30:33by donating Bibles in other languages.
30:37These ones are all from Africa.
30:40And they're going up here, right at the start.
30:42You know, there are different dialects in Kenya.
30:44There are different dialects in India.
30:47These different forms of Bible start to be donated to us.
30:50That's how it's developed over time.
30:52Today, Fleur and Visitor Operations and Experiences manager,
30:57Lauri, are bringing the Bibles out of storage
31:00and putting them on the new library shelves for the very first time.
31:05Japanese.
31:06Might be a bit of a challenge, though, how to display, you know,
31:09small books like this against, like, massive church Bibles.
31:15As the collection grew, they were held in various cabinets in Tmaua
31:20where ambition is to have somewhere that is much safer for them,
31:26much better for their conservation.
31:29So, this is a Scouse Bible.
31:32Gospels in Scouse.
31:33It creates accessibility to people in a language that's familiar.
31:36And, in a way, that's what William Arcand did.
31:40Yeah.
31:41With the shelves fully stacked,
31:44the library is about to welcome its very first visitor.
31:48Can't wait to see the books.
31:50Tim, the Trust's National Curator for Libraries.
31:54Oh, wow.
31:55Look at that.
31:56Looks amazing.
31:59So good.
32:00It's really, really lovely.
32:01And this is a much nicer space to be in.
32:03Yeah, yeah.
32:04It's so nice to see the books out, ready to be looked at
32:09by whoever comes and kind of discovers Tmaua
32:11and the story of William Morgan
32:13and the story of the book collection kind of organically growing
32:17over the decades.
32:17So, it's really lovely.
32:19It looks tantalising.
32:20It looks like, you know, welcoming.
32:23It's a welcoming space.
32:24It'll be really interesting how the sections grow.
32:28Yeah.
32:28As we get new donations in.
32:31Yeah.
32:31See if we can get one on the Antarctica shell.
32:35Like the 1588 Bible,
32:38which we are conserving hopefully in perpetuity.
32:41Actually, this is a story that we also want to look after
32:44for a very, very long time.
32:48Although Tmaua has gained 300 new Bibles,
32:52its Welsh original is heading for the exit.
32:56This is going okay.
32:57There's not as much surface dirt coming off as I anticipated,
33:01as I would have liked.
33:02Sharon has her work cut out to make the 1588 Bible
33:07strong enough to leave in a few weeks' time
33:09to go on display at the Welsh Parliament.
33:13So, I'm working my way through the text block now,
33:17and I'm making any repairs to the tears that I find.
33:22After a thorough clean,
33:24she's now turning her attention to the damaged pages.
33:28You can see that as I turn that page,
33:31those tears are moving, they're opening up.
33:34So, those are ones I'm going to fix.
33:36So, I'm just going to put a protective layer
33:38of acid-free blotter underneath.
33:40Using tiny squares of fine Japanese tissue paper.
33:46It's like a little bandage.
33:47Yes.
33:49Sharon carefully covers each tear.
33:54That looks really good.
33:57Fixing them in place with a gentle adhesive
34:00of wheat starch and water.
34:04I think each book is so different,
34:08and the needs for each book are often different as well.
34:13Each item has its own journey,
34:15and I find that enjoyable.
34:18So, I'm putting blotter on either side
34:20to draw the moisture of the adhesive out of the paper quickly.
34:26And you can see now that that moves with the body of the page,
34:30so the risk of that tearing further into the page is now gone.
34:35Finally, Sharon trims away any excess paper,
34:39leaving a seamless, invisible repair.
34:42This leaf is now done,
34:45and then I've got the main title page,
34:48which is really quite torn on the edge.
34:51So, I've got a few still to do.
35:05It's not a bad place to work, is it,
35:06when you've got a day like the day.
35:08It's grim up north, and kind of, ah, yeah.
35:11Yeah, right.
35:12On Innerfarn, Peter and John are repointing
35:15the last of the loose masonry around the chapel windows.
35:20If you don't point it up, you're going to get your rein in,
35:23it's going to freeze, and then it expands,
35:26and it bursts of stone.
35:28Get the water, doon.
35:29Get the water, doon. Get the muck, doon.
35:32Inside the chapel...
35:34You got it? Yep.
35:36..Alison and her team get to work.
35:39Look, I missed it.
35:43..removing the last of the stained glass windows.
35:47It's out, so we can clean it,
35:50and hopefully it'll go back in smoother than it came out, you know?
35:54The team can start to address the six panes
35:57and their 30 years of dirt.
36:02We are just using soft cloths, cotton buds,
36:05and purified water.
36:11What we have to be careful of
36:12is making sure we don't take any paint off the window,
36:15because Victorian paint wasn't always fired
36:18at a very hot temperature,
36:19therefore it can come off.
36:21So we just have to make sure when we're cleaning
36:23we're doing it gently.
36:25The windows were the handiwork of William Wales of Gateshead.
36:30Renowned for his ornate patterns
36:32and bold colour combinations,
36:34he was one of England's most prolific
36:3719th century stained glass manufacturers.
36:40I think it's interesting working for a company
36:44in what used to be a very male-dominated industry as women,
36:49but it just proves that women can just do it just as well.
36:57I've been working for the company for about two years now.
37:02I got into the job as my father used to do, stained glass,
37:07he had his own company still when we lived in Poland.
37:09And I remember when I was about five, six years old
37:11I used to help him in the workshop
37:13and then see his projects and his kind of art come to life.
37:19Each individual project will have its own challenges
37:22and this one definitely is quite challenging,
37:26but I wouldn't change it for the world.
37:28I feel very privileged to be part of something
37:33that will stay in the earth for the next 100, 200 years, you know.
37:43Visitors to the chapel today are following in the footsteps of pilgrims
37:47who have been coming to Innerfarn for over a thousand years,
37:51every one of them having to brave the trip across the North Sea.
37:56A few days past there, a couple of days ago,
37:58it was a snotty day out on the water, snotty day.
38:01William's family have been keeping visitors' feet dry since 1918.
38:10So I'm the third generation taking boats across to the islands,
38:15the third generation.
38:19I've done this for pretty much 40 years now.
38:22It has its moments, like everything, you know,
38:24but if you like the job, it's half the battle, half the battle.
38:29There's pilgrims all the time
38:31and they'll often make reference to Sim Cuthbert.
38:33There's been crossings going across to these islands
38:35back and forth in little boats for hundreds of years, hundreds of years.
38:41On board today are pilgrims of a very different kind,
38:45a crack team of archaeological experts
38:48from the University of Bradford.
38:54Cuthbert has a long shadow in the North East.
38:58It's astonishing that we can also follow in those footsteps.
39:04Although Cuthbert briefly left the island to become Bishop of Lindisfarne,
39:09he returned to see out his final days in solitude.
39:13Nick and Mark are hoping that Chris and his team
39:16can pinpoint exactly where.
39:19This is the area where we found the potential foundations last year
39:24with the ground-penetrating radar.
39:26But this archaeology project won't involve any digging.
39:31Hi, Chris. Hi, Mark. Chris, how are you?
39:34Hi, Nick. How's it going?
39:36OK. I mean, you've set this quite a difficult challenge here.
39:40One of the biggest challenges
39:42is protecting the network of fragile puffin burrows.
39:47I'm not a heavyweight,
39:49but if I stand on those puffin burrows, they will collapse.
39:52There's way too many puffin burrows on that island.
39:56Instead of digging,
39:58they're using the latest non-invasive geophysical techniques.
40:07Once the birds' breeding season is over and the skies are clear,
40:13Tom uses a drone to capture 3D imagery of the island.
40:18So the green lines are the flight paths.
40:21So it's going to be the whole island flown in about 25 minutes.
40:27We've taken large drones and we've slung underneath them instruments
40:32for collecting magnetic data,
40:35and that gives us a fighting chance of finding evidence of St Cuthbert.
40:39So this is the ground-penetrating radar.
40:43With this one, we collect ten profiles six and a half centimetres apart.
40:49For more stable areas, Michael is hoovering up data with his radar.
40:55It's sending radio pulses into the ground.
41:00Looking for hidden clues in the soil below.
41:03At the end of the day, you press that final button
41:06and that map emerges in front of your eyes
41:09and you see something that, you know, hasn't been seen,
41:12has been forgotten for tens, hundreds or thousands of years.
41:16And that's really satisfying.
41:19But even with all the latest technology,
41:22Chris and his team still have a mountain to climb
41:25to find evidence of Cuthbert.
41:27We're using virtually every single technique that we can on the island.
41:33And that is a challenge and it's also novel.
41:36And we're looking forward to trying to work our way through
41:40understanding what this data means for us.
41:43But perhaps it might just give us the story that we need around St Cuthbert.
41:55Yeah, we know this bird's going in there, in this hole there.
41:57A birdie? Yeah.
41:59Which bird?
42:01You aren't a birdie, Dave. No, it's too far away from me.
42:04At Team Hour, the builders are making the most of unusually dry conditions in the valley.
42:11You couldn't choose a nicer spot to work, I don't think.
42:14I just parked the car further away today, just the off chance of seeing a cuckoo.
42:19Today, Ned and the team are replacing the crumbling mortar in the leaky gable end.
42:24When Team Hour was built in the 16th century,
42:27all of the building materials would have come from the surrounding area.
42:32So they would have gone to the river, they would have dug out the river gravel,
42:35they would have sieved it, and then they would have made a hot mix.
42:39A hot mix is the traditional way of creating mortar,
42:43combining gravel from the stream with lumps of burnt limestone
42:48to create an extreme chemical reaction.
42:51As soon as I add water to this, it will reach 200 degrees maybe in seconds.
42:57I won't put it all in.
43:01And at this stage, I'm going to stir it in because it's nice and easy.
43:05It's got very, very hot very quick.
43:07You want it to be sticky and stiff, so you can really push it into the wall
43:12and then compress it in.
43:15There you go.
43:17The perfect lime mortar.
43:20It might be perfect, but these days it's not permitted to use river gravel.
43:26So Ned's team set to work with a hot mix using aggregate from a builder's merchant.
43:33What we're doing here is just building up the pointing in layers
43:36and just make sure that it makes a better bond.
43:39Even in this modern hot mix, lime is still the magic ingredient,
43:45drawing moisture out of the wall and making it breathable.
43:49What we want to achieve at the end of this is we want to have a very, very flush mortar.
43:55So the mortar is going to be very flush to the stone.
43:59I think it's looking really nice.
44:01Yeah.
44:01Actually, the stone is much better than I thought it was going to be.
44:07Once the gable end is perfectly pointed, Ned can get cracking with the lime washing.
44:14When you're applying a lime wash, the idea is to build it up in quite a few coats.
44:18And obviously, the more weather you're going to get, the more coats you're going to put on.
44:24We'll do seven or eight layers.
44:27Well, basically, we'll mix up a load and we'll just keep going until we run out.
44:32You've got to imagine houses wearing clothes, you know, and this house has been naked for so long.
44:37In an extraordinarily wet climate, what we're doing is we're just putting a light cortex jacket on it.
44:44We're just giving it that little bit more protection from the weather.
44:49Hi Ned.
44:50Hi.
44:51Swimming?
44:52Just around, rolling out the gorffa, man.
44:54Oh, da, mynodig dha.
44:55The last coat.
44:57Oh.
44:57The last brush strokes.
45:00It's great to feel that it's being sensitively taken care of.
45:04It still feels like Ti Mawr, but Ti Mawr's had an injection of care.
45:10While Ti Mawr is almost ready to receive guests again, the winged visitors on Inner Farn are preparing to take
45:18their leave.
45:20That's still a lot of puffling.
45:22The rangers are crunching the numbers on their census as the birds are heading off for another nine months at
45:29sea.
45:30But one is struggling to say goodbye.
45:36So this is a puffling.
45:38This one was stuck in the lighthouse compound at the top of the island.
45:41So if we left him, he just would have either stressed out and become increasingly ill or got eaten by
45:48a large gull.
45:49To give him his wings, Sophia is lending a helping hand.
45:55They've never touched the water before in their lives or seen the sea.
46:01So it's a big, big moment for them.
46:04Let him get his bearings.
46:08Just let him get his bearings a wee bit.
46:10Stood up quite tall on those legs.
46:12Right, I think he's going to fly off.
46:13Might just look at the sea.
46:16He's slightly shell-shocked at what's going on.
46:18He's like, is this the start to life?
46:29That's what you want to see, a happy story for that puffling.
46:34Sometimes you can't intervene and it is frustrating because you can't do anything about it.
46:39But when you can rescue it and it is a happy ending for the puffling, it is very rewarding and
46:44makes it worthwhile.
46:50Here is where we are now.
46:53This is the tower.
46:54And if I switch on our survey.
46:58Also praying for a happy conclusion to their stay on the island are the team of archaeologists searching for Cuthbert's
47:05hermitage.
47:06So here we are looking at some eight centimetres below ground level.
47:10They've analysed the data and have found something intriguing.
47:15Essentially we have a series of potential walls.
47:18There's a flask shape and a feature, which I don't know really what that is, but Mark, have you any
47:24ideas?
47:25Well, it has the feel of something early medieval about it to me.
47:28A roundhouse with an entrance passage or something on it could well look like something of this form.
47:36The flask shaped structure over by the tower is the thing that most immediately grabs your eye.
47:43It's definitely something that was there and was very likely there 1400 years ago.
47:48And perhaps that starts to give you a clue that we are in the right bit of the island.
47:54That's a really important step forwards.
47:56We're not imagining that shape.
47:59No, not at all.
48:00But the GPR is restricted in terms of the depth that you can get to.
48:06Although Chris and his team have now gone as far as they can with their ground penetrating radar, this is
48:13just the beginning.
48:15In five years, ten years, twenty years, there might be other techniques, non-invasive techniques, that allow us to say
48:24that is definitively something from the age of St. Cuthbert.
48:30I think it's a case of watch this space.
48:32Scan this space.
48:33Oh, nice. Very good.
48:35Yeah, that's right. Definitely. Scan it some more.
48:37It would be lovely to have reached this point in the investigation and found something that really absolutely reflected Bede's
48:45description.
48:45I don't think we've got to that yet, but absolutely what we're walking away from this from is certainty of
48:52the extraordinary archaeological potential that exists here.
48:56And that's a pretty exciting prospect.
49:10At team hour, Ned is checking in to see if the newly lime-washed Gable N is standing up to
49:17the elements.
49:22We've had a few bad storms. Storm Amy was really quite vicious up here.
49:26So it's had a proper test.
49:29But it's great to see that it's adhered really well and it's feeling just as we'd want it to.
49:35So long as we keep the lime-washing up year on year, then it will hopefully mean that the moisture
49:41of the rain won't actually dry through the wall into the inside.
49:50Happy?
49:53Well, it's lovely, isn't it? What a transformation.
49:56We've been living in the fear of the next storm, the next wet period to come and being able to
50:03relax a lot more now knowing that we have a resilient building.
50:10The project's gone well and it seems to have solved the problem.
50:13So you know in your heart of hearts that you've done the best for that building.
50:17It's steeped in history and it's a place where a very important man lived and did a very important job.
50:24In a distinguished career, William Morgan rose through the ranks to become a priest and then a bishop.
50:32And although he died in relative poverty in 1604, he left the nation a priceless treasure.
50:41I'm just going to use a little tool just to encourage that piece of leather back down.
50:47Sharon is finishing her painstaking repair of the 1588 Bible.
50:53I'm really happy with how it's looking.
50:56It doesn't look very different really, but I know that all of the little tears have been repaired.
51:01I know it's safe to handle.
51:04Now the Bible is ready to make its own pilgrimage.
51:08A hundred and seventy mile journey to the Senedd, the Welsh Parliament in Cardiff.
51:17Now that it has become so closely associated with Tim Auer, the birthplace of William Morgan,
51:24this particular copy has taken on a greater degree of significance.
51:30And I think that's part of the reason for wanting to share the Bible with the rest of Wales.
51:37It's great to see the 1588 Bible here.
51:41It's like everything.
51:42It's a long time in the planning to get something as monumental as this into a place as monumental as
51:49this.
51:55The Bible is the centrepiece of a new exhibition celebrating the legacy of Bishop Morgan and his Bible's pivotal role
52:04in Welsh language and culture.
52:08Morgan's translation was not simply a religious act. It was a revolutionary act of preservation.
52:17It gave the Welsh people access to scripture in their own tongue.
52:22It's an important thing.
52:23It's a new curriculum, our name is the UK or the UK.
52:34And we have to make sure the infections are affected by the rajis and the country as well.
52:42I'm so delighted the Senedd members have spoken so passionately about what it means to them
52:48to have it here, bringing something of this nature into the heart of democracy in Wales.
52:55After two months in Cardiff, the 1588 Bible will be wending its way back to Tymour,
53:02its modest but newly watertight home.
53:05So we have now the structure and the ability to ensure that people enjoy seeing that 1588 Bible there
53:13and I can't wait to see it back in its rightful place.
53:31So I've heard you guys have a wager on the Puffin number.
53:35On Inner Farn, it's also a big day for the rangers.
53:39Sophia has the results of this year's bird count, starting with the Puffins.
53:45How many do you think that you counted this year?
53:48My bet was 37,000 pairs.
53:51Yeah, my bet was 38,000.
53:53Very close, Evie.
53:55So we had 38,500 pairs of Puffins across the islands this year.
54:03So really a lot of Puffins.
54:05Yeah, it has a lot of Puffins.
54:08So last year we had 50,000 pairs, but that's nothing to panic about.
54:17So the Puffin count figure this year is lower, but it doesn't necessarily mean that the population
54:24is in decline on the Farn Islands.
54:26This could be due to seals coming up the island and compressing the soil or storms washing
54:33away, you know, the soil cap where the Puffins borrow.
54:37The Puffins move around where they nest on the island and this fresh map of where they're
54:43living on the islands hasn't been mapped out yet.
54:47And it's not just the Puffins that the team have been counting.
54:53So the Arctic turns across all of the Farn Islands.
54:58They have gone up by 24%.
55:00That's fantastic.
55:02Really good, really good.
55:03And then shags, so they've gone up from 30 pairs to 58.
55:09Oh, well done.
55:11Yeah, it's been a busy season.
55:12Yeah, it was a big, big old job.
55:15We've got 25 breeding species of birds on the Farns and it's such an important hub for
55:20those species as well.
55:21So we'll do everything we can to keep their areas safe when they do come back and land
55:26and nest for that really short period of time.
55:29Right, T's up.
55:30So you've got to be a certain kind of person to work on the Farn Islands, but it's such a
55:33special experience.
55:34It's brilliant.
55:35I don't think there'll be many people out there that wouldn't enjoy it.
55:43In the chapel, another major project is drawing to a close.
55:52After a week-long deep clean of the stained glass windows...
55:57Yeah, it's gone nice and smoothly once the stonework was fixed.
56:01Cuthbert and his fellow saints are coming home.
56:06It's just an incredible feeling.
56:08It feels like you're definitely making a difference to, I wouldn't say the world, but, you know,
56:15to the historical part of that building and the life on the Farn Isles.
56:20After Cuthbert died here, he was buried at Lindisfarne, where he remained for nearly 200 years,
56:27before the monks fled from the invading Vikings in 875, taking Cuthbert's body with them.
56:35His shrine was later relocated to Durham Cathedral, which has, in turn, become a place of pilgrimage.
56:44Oh, that's nice.
56:57Definitely looks cleaner and brighter and richer, if possible.
57:04Oh, it just looks incredible.
57:06I mean, there's details in that window that I'd never noticed.
57:09I've been staring at it for over 10 years.
57:12You can see whether there's, like, a soldier with his hand over his eye.
57:15Yeah.
57:15I genuinely have never seen that much before.
57:20There's so much history on Inifarne, you can't really get away from it.
57:24Everywhere you turn, it's there.
57:26All these things link back to that incredibly long story,
57:30and you have to remind yourself you're just, like, a lion in that story that goes back, you know, one
57:36and a half millennia.
57:37It's just mind-blowing.
57:54Take an interactive journey with The Open University to discover how different landscapes have shaped these hidden treasures.
58:02Scan the QR code on screen, or visit connect.open.ac.uk forward slash hidden treasures.
58:15Next time, the homes of two eclectic collectors.
58:19The more money you have, the more you can do absolutely anything, and you are limited only by your imagination.
58:27It's just bonkers, isn't it? But beautiful as well.
58:30With unexpected discoveries.
58:33Oh, and I've got a body.
58:34And long-forgotten objects shining once again.
58:38They just dazzle and leap out.
59:06They just dazzle and leap out.
59:08So, let's go.
59:12You're welcome.
59:13My name isigu.
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