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  • 1 hour ago
Chef Jake Leiber of Chez Ma Tante in Brooklyn shows how to make his iconic pancakes–crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside, and packed with rich, buttery flavour. From resting your batter to frying in clarified butter, these chef-level techniques will completely upgrade how you make pancakes at home.
Transcript
00:05My name is Jake Lieber.
00:06I am the chef and owner of Chez Matin
00:08here in Greenpoint, Brooklyn.
00:10Today, I'm going to show you how to make my perfect pancakes.
00:17Chez Matin has been open for nearly nine years now.
00:20It was inspired by the nouveau bistro scene in Paris.
00:23Pancakes are probably the most popular dish.
00:26They make literally like 1,200 pancakes on a weekend.
00:28They have this great crispy edge.
00:30Pushing the color on them to get that toasted marshmallow flavor
00:33is transcendent.
00:38So I'm going to start by cracking all my eggs.
00:41If you get shells in your bowl,
00:43there's this lovely trick that if you use a shell,
00:46it scoops it out really easily.
00:48If I tried to use my fingers for that,
00:51it would just slide around and avoid my fingers
00:53like my children avoiding going to bed.
00:56I'm going to do eight and eight eggs and egg yolks.
00:59I'm just using my hands to separate the whites from the yolk.
01:03I'm letting the whites slip through my fingers,
01:06my very clean, recently washed hands.
01:09You do not have to waste your whites at all.
01:12You can make an omelet out of them.
01:13You can save them to make meringue.
01:15Extra yolks contribute richness.
01:18I'm going to cream my sugar a bit,
01:20just to make sure that it's evenly distributed.
01:24I'm going to go in with salt and baking powder to make them rise.
01:29Probably the most important thing about the batter,
01:31we're mixing our ingredients evenly
01:33so we don't have some that end up flat
01:35and some that end up fluffy.
01:37But look at it already.
01:38It's starting to activate.
01:39I'm going in with about half the milk.
01:41I'm using whole milk.
01:43Skim milk is bull .
01:45By adding milk in stages,
01:47it helps me make my batter a little bit more even.
01:50This is leached all-purpose flour.
01:53Adding the flour bit by bit helps to avoid lumps.
01:57Now it's getting tight.
01:58I can feel my arm like it's starting to feel like cement a little bit.
02:00I'm going to add a little bit more of my milk.
02:03Kind of got to use your eye a bit.
02:05If the batter is super wet,
02:07your pancakes are going to be flat.
02:08And nobody wants flat pancakes.
02:11One of the special things about this recipe
02:13is that we use clarified butter.
02:15Butter that has been separated from the milk solids.
02:18And once I add the fat,
02:20don't be scared if you see it broken.
02:21It will incorporate.
02:23And that's about the consistency we're looking for.
02:25A little bit like a drippy sand castle.
02:27Any like decent supermarket has clarified butter these days.
02:31It's called ghee.
02:33G-H-E-E.
02:35If you don't have clarified butter,
02:37you can use literally any oil that you have in your pantry.
02:41We also use a little bit of lemon zest.
02:44Zest doesn't add acidity, but it adds brightness.
02:47It helps cut the richness of the pancakes.
02:50Some people ask me why I put my microplane in my belly button.
02:54It's like my fishing rod anchor.
02:56I wasn't thinking about it, but then somebody called me out.
02:59They're like, are you, is your microplane in your belly button?
03:02And I was like, yeah.
03:05I've been talking a lot and my batter is tightening.
03:08It's holding even longer than it would before.
03:10That's partially because I emulsified some fat into it.
03:13And the fat is cooling in the cold egg and the cold milk.
03:17You can make your batter in advance.
03:19You probably should actually at least even an hour in advance.
03:22You can rest it in the fridge.
03:23I actually have a batch of rested pancake batter right here.
03:27By resting your batter, it hydrates and it cools.
03:30The fat is super like congealed in here and it's going to hold its shape when it hits the hot
03:38griddle.
03:41So what really sets this pancake apart is what I'm about to do right now.
03:47I know you saw me putting clarified butter into the batter.
03:49I'm going to fry them in an ocean of clarified butter.
03:53And that's what really makes them special.
03:55Super crispy.
03:56Clarified butter has a much higher smoke point than traditional butter.
04:00We don't run any risk of burning our fat, making the fat bitter in the pancake.
04:04As it warms, the fat is shimmering and it's just barely starting to smoke.
04:09The griddle should be at a good temperature.
04:10If you do not have a griddle like this at home, you can use literally any frying pan.
04:16It doesn't matter, especially, it doesn't matter because you're using this much fat.
04:19So I have my rested batter here.
04:21This is maybe a four ounce ladle, but it's dropping in and it's sizzling right away, which is exactly what
04:26we're looking for.
04:27And I'm going to give them enough space because they're going to expand.
04:31These generally take eight or so minutes to cook this very cold, thick batter all the way through.
04:37I have eight on here.
04:38They're nice and evenly spaced.
04:39This one is frying more.
04:41Obviously, it's hotter in the middle.
04:42That's because the rim is absorbing heat, but they're setting.
04:45I don't want to disturb them too much just yet.
04:46And we want it to set almost like a custard.
04:49Once they set, I'm going to move them around because I have this really nice pancake in the middle.
04:55It's getting a little bit too much heat.
04:56And the other ones need a little bit of heat, too.
04:59These generally take eight or so minutes to cook.
05:0180% of the cooking on the first side.
05:03This one's pretty much ready.
05:04The bubbles are not nearly as active and it's like kind of tacky up top.
05:09Looks dry.
05:10So that when we flip it, it doesn't flatten and eject the raw batter on the other side.
05:17I like a smaller turner because I'm going to gently flip from one side over to the other.
05:22I'm seeing a pancake now that's a shade or two darker than golden brown.
05:28I'm seeing double rings.
05:31I'm seeing a double rainbow right now.
05:32See this ring here and this ring here?
05:35That's magic.
05:36And this right here is super crispy and super fluffy.
05:39I'm going to start looking at my other pancakes.
05:41They're all looking really nice.
05:43I'm going to flip this guy right here.
05:45That's a nice color too.
05:45Look at that one.
05:47I like my pancakes dark because they end up having this like almost burnt caramel flavor to them.
05:53You don't want it to be like soft and anemic looking.
05:56I just splattered the shit out of myself, which is par for the course.
06:01You can see, okay, so now look at this.
06:03It's splattered out a little bit.
06:05It's just under set just a tiny bit.
06:07It's a usable pancake.
06:09Also, it's going to rise on its second side.
06:10It's going to keep rising.
06:12Pancakes are like snowflakes.
06:13They're all beautiful in their own way.
06:15And then once you flip them, they need time to rise again.
06:18This is the first one.
06:18I know this one's cooked.
06:20If I tap on my pancake and it doesn't like compress at all, it's cooked all the way through.
06:24They should sound like patting a baseball mitt or someone's tushy.
06:29So they're all sounding pretty good to me.
06:31Let's go with the biggest ones on the bottom.
06:34These are hot off the griddle.
06:35I'm going to cover them in butter and maple syrup.
06:39Pretty, pretty, pretty good.
06:45I've got my plate here.
06:46We have five pancakes.
06:48Normally we serve two.
06:49I'm going to put a heaping ice cream scoop of salted butter.
06:52It's whipped.
06:53You might not need more fat, but if you're counting calories, like, get the .
06:58We used to serve them covered in maple syrup.
07:00Now we pour them table side.
07:01I'm going to drench them in this lovely Pennsylvania maple syrup.
07:05I don't like random all over my pancakes.
07:08You don't need nuts.
07:09You don't need fruit.
07:10You don't need anything.
07:11You just need butter and maple syrup.
07:13They look gorgeous.
07:15They're dark.
07:16They have this wonderful ring, this shattering glass-like crispy edge.
07:21They're absolutely perfect.
07:22You can see how fluffy it is.
07:27They're sweet, but they're not too sweet.
07:29The lemon, like, you might not think it does anything, but it really comes through.
07:32They're really nice and crispy.
07:34It has that almost barely burnt flavor.
07:37And then you get a little bit more salt from the butter.
07:40Look at these layers.
07:41Look at that.
07:42It's like a harp.
07:49Comments below.
07:50If you would buy my pancake mix, I'll make it.
07:52I'll make it.
07:53Let's make some money.
07:56Make some money to me.
07:58I'm losing money.
08:00Make money.
08:01Making pancakes.
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