- 2 days ago
What's the best skincare routine for your skin type? Plus: AI-assisted skin screenings, removing unwanted tattoos, and tackling herpes outbreaks.
Category
ЁЯЫая╕П
LifestyleTranscript
00:06skin we've got plenty of it roughly about the size of a bath towel our skin envelopes and
00:13protects us and regulates our body temperature and if it looks good all the better that takes
00:20work though or rather a lot of products at least that's what influencers like to tell us but is
00:26any of it really necessary or even good for us welcome to in good shape dw's health show
00:49this is leonie she hardly ever thinks about skin care
00:54that's not true at all well okay she recently started using a moisturizer but she's used it up
01:02so off to the drugstore and if there's one thing about the skincare aisle it's confusing
01:11countless different ingredients
01:15and what do they all mean
01:25to find out what she actually needs leonie is off to see a specialist
01:36so what do you currently use on your skin well i actually bought a proper face wash again a week
01:45ago and a face cream which has some sunscreen in it and now i'm applying a vitamin c serum on
01:53top of that
01:53and before that i actually only ever used hand soap and body lotion
02:00to see how all that is working beautician elea checks whether her skin barrier is intact
02:08what i can definitely say straight off is that your skin barrier isn't functioning properly you can
02:13see that here on the surface of your forehead you're getting some patchy redness
02:18so the vitamin c serum was too much time to work out leonie's skin type
02:27so your skin is on the dry side which i'm sure is something you notice when you get out of
02:33the shower
02:34that your skin immediately starts to feel tight you have very low sebum production so there's no
02:41protective barrier on your skin and that means your moisture loss is very high
02:46it's important now to not only increase moisture for example by using hyaluronic acid products and
02:53adding more and more water you also need a skin care product that gently replenishes lipids to get
02:59everything back in balance again many customers don't know their skin's needs and so use the wrong products
03:07the issues we see on a day-to-day basis with our clients are overly aggressive cleansing exfoliation
03:17that's too intense and too frequent and of course the type of exfoliation often done at home which has
03:22become more acidic and which further compromises the skin barrier
03:30to improve your skin you can follow a basic routine
03:33a gentle cleanser to remove dirt and makeup an optional toner to neutralize hard water
03:42or a serum for hydration and finally a barrier strengthening cream to prevent moisture loss
03:49in the morning apply sunscreen to protect your skin active ingredients should always be tailored to
03:56your skin's needs often the problem is that people use active ingredients that their skin doesn't
04:04actually need chemist merit hilscher understands just how confusing buying creams can be on instagram
04:13she educates people about products specific skin concerns and active ingredients this product
04:19contains five percent panthenol which is great and ceramides ceramides can further strengthen the skin barrier
04:26on top of that it contains squalane so it's a cream that works well for oily skin combination skin
04:34and it's also great for anyone who doesn't want a rich sticky cream
04:40how suitable a product is depends on your skin type for dry skin you need ingredients that bind
04:47moisture for example hyaluronic acid you also need to lock in that moisture
04:55for oily skin balancing sebum production is key that can be done with niacinamide salicylic acid or zinc
05:03it's better to opt for lighter moisturizers
05:08for combination skin you need a balance ingredients that reduce oil in the t-zone
05:13and provide moisture in other areas
05:19and regardless of skin type avoid essential oils too much alcohol and fragrances
05:28and there's no need to spend a lot of money even cheaper brands have good products that are easy on
05:34the
05:34you need to spend a lot of money in your wallet
05:37don't let the vast selection overwhelm you
05:43ask yourself do i have a problem i want to fix do i need specific products
05:49normal skin might not need anything except sunscreen and maybe a cleansing gel
05:54you might irritate your skin if you use active ingredients you don't need
05:59less is usually more and that goes for skin care too leonie now knows her skin type and which
06:06ingredients to look for and that makes shopping a lot easier
06:12and here's a skin care tip for men because male skin is thicker and more oily it's best to avoid
06:19heavy
06:19greasy creams last summer tan lines were all the rage and that means lots of time spent sunbathing
06:28dermatologists must have been horrified because prolonged sun exposure seriously raises your
06:34risk of skin cancer if you spot any unusual changes get it checked out by your doctor
06:40and what about using a screening app reporter viola cooks wanted to find out more
06:47i love the sun as soon as it comes out i head outside
06:54and i've always done that
06:59of course uv rays damage the skin and can cause cancer so it's so important to wear sun protection
07:05especially if you're fair skinned like me i definitely do that now but not so much when i
07:09was younger when i look at my arms it's like new spots appear every summer and although i go for
07:16screenings i'd really like to be able to check in between that everything's still okay especially when
07:21i feel like something's changed so i'm going to try out a skin screening app i can use it to
07:28scan my moles
07:29and then ai analyzes them and flags anything that looks suspicious you can also check your moles without
07:36a scan using the abcde rule a for asymmetry look out for any irregular shaped asymmetrical spots
07:49b for border blurry scolloped or irregular borders could be a sign of skin cancer
07:56c for color look for moles with more than one color and get those examined
08:03the same applies to those with a diameter of more than five millimeters
08:10and pay attention to whether the mole is e evolving if its size shape or color changes this can be
08:16a warning sign
08:19a few of my spots meet some of those criteria but that doesn't necessarily mean anything let's see
08:25what the app says the app is only for adults and skin types one to four very light to light
08:32brown skin
08:32and the scanner doesn't work in skin folds or between fingers and some of my moles are hard to reach
08:42with this mole here i initially got a moderate risk but when i scan it again it comes up as
08:47low risk
08:49i get the impression that you get different results depending on the camera angle and lighting
08:56so i've scanned all the moles i could find on my body with the app
09:00two of them came up as moderate risk but the app's developers do say on their website that the app
09:05doesn't provide medical diagnoses so how reliable is it i'm at munich municipal hospital and i'm about
09:13to step into a state-of-the-art 3d full body scanner which also uses ai i'm excited to see
09:19the results
09:23i meet dermatologist daniela hartmann she's also an expert in ai in dermatology and uses
09:30cutting-edge technology like this 3d full-body scanner which is equipped with 92 cameras it
09:37photographs my body from every angle and then stitches the images together we're about to start
09:44please stand still close your eyes for a moment all done you can relax
09:54while the ai spends a few minutes analyzing the images dr hartmann examines me directly because the
10:01cameras don't capture every part of the body and then the scan results are in what is the ai done
10:10here
10:11using the clinical photographs of your entire body the ai shows us which moles should be examined more
10:18closely and where any initial changes have occurred then here in the middle we see the moles that the ai
10:29has identified as more conspicuous for example the one on my shoulder and the one on my collarbone
10:40in such cases the dermatologist conducts a further check with the reflected light dermatoscope the ai assesses
10:47shape diameter and color in my case everything is fine but if a mole is flagged as suspicious you no
10:56longer need to remove it to test for skin cancer instead there's a non-invasive optical biopsy ai assisted of
11:06course
11:09this examines the deeper skin layers for malignant changes
11:17the ai uses the scan to calculate how likely a carcinoma is and if there is one present how big
11:25it is
11:29i showed daniela hartmann the scans i made using the app it had flagged the same moles as suspicious
11:35the dermatologist says such apps can be helpful along with an in-person skin check
11:43one of the most important reasons why it makes sense is that it motivates you to check your own skin
11:49prevention and also to go for a professional screening exam and also it raises awareness that the skin
12:00should be examined and that something might be developing there something that might need to be
12:07removed so that if it turns out to be skin cancer it can be detected and treated early on
12:14how reliable is the ai does it sometimes give a false alarm that's later cleared up
12:21well the 3d scanner has had really good results in recent studies and performed similarly to a human
12:27expert so it's very reliable but you can't use this examination method without
12:34human expertise and be certain of the results there are cases where the algorithms or ai overlook
12:47a suspicious mole or a malignant lesion or fail to identify it correctly and there are also cases
12:56and this is more common where the ai indicates a slightly higher risk and makes the patient more
13:02anxious even though it might not actually be that serious at all i've learned that ai can help
13:10detect skin cancer early and accurately and it reminded me how incredibly important prevention is
13:15maybe i'll use apps like this in the future
13:22by the way skin cancer is harder to see on darker skin because the spots don't stand out as much
13:29so checkups are especially important
13:34and tattoos are all the rage but getting inked hurts and we still don't fully know how the inks
13:40affect the body long term they can contain things like exhaust fume particles dye residues and metals
13:48some solid pigments even migrate to the lymph nodes which may raise the risk of cancer
13:53you can't undo that but you can remove the tattoo
13:59it sounds unpleasant
14:03it's not so nice it feels like needles going into your body
14:09a sharp stinging pain
14:13nadine's tattoo has almost disappeared before it was hard to miss that was the problem
14:18i wanted wings on my back and so i decided on a raven
14:25but i hadn't considered how dark and black it would be
14:30that said i've had it for over 10 years now so i guess i've been very happy with it
14:34i really liked it and then i didn't want it anymore
14:41her other tattoos are fine they aren't as dark and she can easily cover them up with makeup
14:47the raven just took forever to cover up so it has to go
14:53popping sounds are ink particles that the laser breaks apart
14:56the body then eliminates these shards it stings but keeping an unwanted tattoo can be more painful
15:05top of the list are names of ex-partners or their symbols
15:10or less common
15:13we once had a woman with a penis tattooed on her forehead it was quite a surprise when she lifted
15:18her bangs there are no limits it takes far longer to remove a tattoo than to get one
15:25we don't have an eraser it's a long process for some it's a bit quicker but it certainly can't be
15:30done
15:30in one sitting and you need at least six weeks between sessions preferably eight this is nadine
15:37janacek's 23rd session she's been coming here for years she pays 250 euros each time
15:46the tattoo itself cost 350 euros back then and was done in an hour but i tell myself other people
15:53spend
15:54that much money on cigarettes and drugs and i don't i'd rather invest it in my body the number of
16:02sessions
16:03needed depends on the quality of the ink and the tattooing technique the most stubborn one was a
16:09vacation tattoo a pine cone from turkey that took 38 sessions it was this big a life-size pine cone
16:18just a few more sessions and nadine's black raven will have disappeared
16:24it's already so much easier to cover up just a quick swipe and it's no longer visible
16:31those around her have noticed too
16:35at first a lot of people said that won't go away it won't work you'll be left with scars you
16:41know the
16:42typical things and now they're like oh that's so exciting or oh that looks great right so i had to
16:48convince them that the whole thing would work she says if you don't like it get rid of it
16:56for me it was the best decision i'd recommend it to anyone if you're unhappy with a tattoo or anything
17:02on your body do something about it ultimately her patients will conquer the ink and she won't miss the
17:11raven want radiant looking skin on social media easy just use a filter in real life though healthy
17:24glowing skin takes a bit more work sleep and a balanced diet really matter fruit and vegetables
17:31deliver vitamins and help keep your skin firm and supple
17:37fish and nuts give you omega-3s which help calm inflammation and plenty of water keeps skin hydrated
17:46but eating well can be a chore so what about supplements collagen is the substance that keeps
17:53our skin firm and elastic it's a protein found in our connective tissue and as we age our bodies
17:59produce less and less of it starting at about 25 production decreases by about one percent per year
18:09meanwhile there's an increase in the cross-linking of the collagen fibers
18:13that makes the collagen more brittle and less elastic and we can see the effects of this directly on the
18:20skin in the form of wrinkles and droopy eyelids for example
18:28some products promise to restore lost collagen and make skin firmer
18:36at least that's the idea
18:41when you consume collagen powders they first have to pass through the digestive tract
18:46where they're broken down and converted into amino acids
18:52and because amino acids can be used for a wide variety of processes in the body
18:58we can't be certain where they will end up
19:01so when we take collagen powders we don't know whether they will actually specifically be used
19:07to improve skin elasticity
19:11nonetheless some manufacturers make big promises
19:15and yet most of these claims have not been scientifically proven or at least not independently verified
19:21we asked the manufacturers for evidence of efficacy that is for scientific studies
19:27these studies had flaws or involved only very small numbers of participants
19:33and so we simply have no scientific evidence that such dietary supplements provide any visible benefit to users
19:44and even more recent meta studies in which data from other studies are combined and analyzed
19:51find no direct link between collagen intake and skin aging
19:55and that's surprising because it's a multi-billion dollar market
19:59worldwide consumers spend nearly five billion us dollars a year on these products but why
20:06when people feel like they're aging that they're not as attractive anymore that plays a role
20:13they think throwing money at it will help
20:16it's expensive and it won't help
20:20consumers should keep in mind that these products can cost a lot of money
20:24you have to take them over a long period of time preferably every day
20:28in order to maintain the effects that's according to the manufacturers
20:34changing your lifestyle instead might give you the same or better results for less money
20:42and the science is clear a healthy lifestyle really does help your skin
20:49beautiful supple lips yes please drinking water helps but licking your lips only makes them drier
20:57some lip balms with eucalyptus perfume essential oils or mineral oils can cause irritation
21:08other balms though can really help since lips don't have sebaceous glands they need extra moisture
21:15lipids and ingredients that support the protective barrier but even the best care won't stop cold sores
21:22they need a different approach
21:26i'm louisa i'm 28 and i've had herpes since i was a teenager
21:33i get really bad outbreaks on my upper lip and sometimes they spread all the way up to my nose
21:41my skin has really suffered with them over the years
21:48and even now while i'm talking my upper lip has started tingling as if it's saying hey you're
21:53talking about me i'll start tingling to remind you i'm still there
21:57and the herpes virus is indeed always there like a lifelong uninvited guest
22:04in an initial outbreak the virus multiplies in the cells on the skin's surface the immune system
22:11steps in to fight it off but some of the virus travels along the nerve fibers into the spinal cord
22:16where it becomes dormant if our immune system is under stress the virus can reactivate traveling
22:23back to the original site multiplying and building a new batch of painful herpes blisters typically on
22:31the mouth sometimes around the nose it's usually when i have a cold or my immune system is struggling
22:44i wake up with a swollen lip dermatologist saeed hilton is currently suffering from one himself
22:51after an infection
22:55herpes great i developed a small cold sore on my lip three weeks ago nothing worse for a dermatologist
23:04at this stage the virus is highly contagious
23:09i'd never lend anyone say my lip balm if i have an outbreak or have just come out of one
23:16i'd also tell them not to drink from the same bottle as me because it's really contagious
23:21i'm very mindful of that the world health organization estimates that two-thirds of
23:28the world's population is infected with the type one herpes virus
23:34most people are virus carriers and you're either lucky and never or rarely get it or you're unlucky and
23:40get it more often and if you're really unlucky you get it very often
23:44a slight burning sensation no it burns a lot louisa tends to use creams containing the active ingredient
23:53acyclovir in germany they cost between two and four euros i apply it very thinly that's worked well over the
24:03years i've also tried herpes patches but they don't help as much
24:12the patches are small antiviral stickers that are applied directly to the cold sore
24:19they can be bought over the counter here in germany but they do cost more
24:24some people swear by them while others complain that they don't stick well enough
24:30luisa on the other hand says they stick too firmly
24:36most people can expect to get no more than one or two outbreaks a year not luisa
24:43in 2023 i suffered about six or seven outbreaks it certainly bothers me it not only doesn't look nice
24:52it also really hurts when my lip is swollen i can feel it on my teeth it presses against them
25:01when i
25:01try to eat or drink and an outbreak higher up can get in the way when i blow my nose
25:08my skin has also really suffered over the years
25:11so if someone suffers from frequent and severe outbreaks i would definitely recommend oral
25:18antivirals they cut the total number of infections per year and they also speed up recovery so that
25:26patients can feel better again more quickly in germany however such pills are only available on
25:34prescription and they can have side effects like nausea or vomiting but that's not enough to put luisa off
25:41it can only get better so i'm open to everything
25:52and that's all from us this time we'll be back soon with a new edition of in good shape
25:58until then take care and bye for now
Comments