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00:0150 years on from a horror story with a fairy tale ending, welcome to Landworks.
00:29Hello from Inverary and the shores of Lochfine.
00:32We're back with a brand new series and a reason to celebrate, 50 years on screen.
00:40We'll be looking back on standout stories from the Lambert Archive and bringing them right up to date.
00:48But half a century ago, here at Inverary Castle, there was no reason to celebrate.
00:54Later on I'll be finding out how this magnificent castle was almost lost forever and how it rose from the
01:00ashes.
01:00Here's what else is coming up.
01:04You know, it is amazing, the things you find in Farmshed.
01:08Rosie meets the crafty crofters, refining their fleeces.
01:14Liana's liking the lichen.
01:16Oh, this looks really cool.
01:20And Arlene investigates the growth of agritourism.
01:25Quite important to fully commit to this story. I am a professional after all.
01:34First up, it's a recurring question for all beef farmers.
01:37How much do you spend on a bull?
01:40That's certainly something Cammie's been asking himself as he heads along to one of the biggest annual sales.
01:49This is the place where fortunes are made.
01:51The famous Stirling bull sales.
01:54Over the years, prices here have set many a breed record.
02:01Like last year's Simmental bull.
02:06Hemingford Prince Charming.
02:08Selling at 56,000 guineas.
02:11Smashing the national and European record.
02:17But with over 700 pedigree bulls going through the ring over two sales, why do a lucky few make those
02:24big prices?
02:27Ahead of the sale, the bulls are shown and judged.
02:31Buyers get a good look at the bulls and they get to find out which ones are ranked the best.
02:37It's also an opportunity to get some insider tips.
02:41Watch for that mate. Right, good man.
02:42Man in the know here.
02:43I'm just getting in and then I can pretend like I know anything about Charlie Cattle.
02:49Sale day.
02:51John Roberts is overseeing United Auctions cattle sales team.
02:55John.
02:55How are you?
02:56How are you doing? You well?
02:57Oh, great to see you. The excitement's starting to build here.
02:59Oh, I know. The atmosphere's going to be tremendous today.
03:02Which kind of prices could we expect to see at the sale?
03:04It takes two people to make a trade.
03:05So as long as two people like a bull, it should be good to go.
03:09And have you seen any record breakers out the back today?
03:11There's a lot of good bulls out there. A lot of good bulls.
03:13And a lot of it depends on figures and how the bull locomotion goes.
03:19So there's plenty of good bulls out there.
03:22You've got tremendous line-up with bulls here under the stronger lines we've seen for a while.
03:27Okay, sale's just about to start. First bull coming in the ring.
03:30There's a real buzz about the place today.
03:31Let's just settle in and enjoy the show.
03:36In this symmetrical sale, 115 are going under the hammer.
03:42Now, I'm not very sure of the differences between them.
03:45But thankfully, help is on hand.
03:48I've been joined by esteemed farmer, Graham Lofthouse.
03:51Graham, why are some bulls dealer than ours?
03:54I would say today there's a difference in rules here.
03:57There's obviously differences in their figures.
03:59Good length about them, good width for their tops.
04:02Just nice movement about them.
04:03But is it fair to say that there's a bit of luck involved too?
04:05You need two able farmers to like your bull?
04:08Yeah, you definitely do.
04:09I mean, there's got to be two people here that want the same bull.
04:12If you and I want that same bull, we're going to go at it.
04:15And you would end up getting it?
04:16I don't think I would end up getting it.
04:17You're the man with the money, so it wouldn't necessarily be me that would get it.
04:2010, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15.
04:35They want to see the bulls coming through, see them walking.
04:38And he's got a very, very important role here.
04:40Every bit as important as the man with the microphone and the hammer.
04:44Look at this here, 5, 6, 2, for rock and man.
04:48You know this is a good one because the room has felt quiet.
04:51Gossip is out.
04:52This is going to be an expensive bull.
05:06Not a breed record, but Isla Vale Rocketman lit up the auction
05:11and landed the top price of 30,000 guineas for Fiona Stroner.
05:16Fiona, I absolutely smashed it.
05:18How are you feeling?
05:19Absolutely delighted.
05:20Couldn't have went better, I wouldn't have said.
05:22That was wild.
05:22It was totally mental.
05:24I haven't processed it yet.
05:25And what was it about that bull that was so special?
05:27Just had that bit of extra style and class about him.
05:30He had great length, he had good bone.
05:32He was the right colour.
05:34Tremendous back end and very square across the plate.
05:37So yeah, you don't get it much better.
05:39He was the full pocket.
05:41We move on to the Charlies.
05:4545,000, I took a wee video of that one so I can watch it again later.
05:49Will we see the breed record of 105,000 guineas broken?
05:54Okay, you can feel the excitement in the room.
05:56This is the champion coming in just now.
05:58Let's see how this sells.
06:03This impressive boy is Goldie's Vance.
06:07Overall champion raised by top Dumfries breeder Hamish Goldie.
06:115, 50, 5, 60, 70, 75.
06:17Sitting at 70 just now with the tic-tac out the back.
06:205, 75, 75.
06:3075,000 guineas.
06:32A worthy champion.
06:37Hamish, what a buzz.
06:38What makes him such a special bull?
06:40He's just got so much power and great top liner and great length.
06:43Tremendous body and oozing character and power.
06:46We maybe didn't see a breed record today but we saw a Goldie's record.
06:49We did, we definitely did.
06:50Superb.
06:50And we're over the moon.
06:56What a sale today.
06:58Lots of big prices.
07:00But if I'm honest, I don't think I can pick out a top bill like this yet.
07:03Let's go.
07:04Come on.
07:05Come on lad.
07:06Home time.
07:15It's a fairytale castle, a symmetrical square flanked by soaring turrets.
07:25Inverery has been the seat of the Duke of Argyll, chiefs of Clan Campbell since the 18th century.
07:31But 50 years ago, this architectural masterpiece was devastated by fire.
07:41It's hard to believe it now.
07:43I'm meeting the current and 13th Duke of Argyll.
07:47Hi, how are you?
07:48Hi, D.
07:48Welcome to Inverery.
07:50Very nice to see you.
07:51Torquil Ian Campbell, who witnessed it all.
08:00It was bonfire night, the 5th of November, 1975, when the fire broke out.
08:07I was seven at the time.
08:08I was here with my mother.
08:10And I think it sort of, you know, it sort of took hold late afternoon.
08:15And I, you know, I've sort of, you know, quite vivid memories have been taken to the local
08:20town bonfire and fireworks display.
08:25And, you know, it was dark.
08:26And there was this huge great big orange light on the castle.
08:29And everyone was watching the castle and not the bonfire and the fireworks.
08:33And that's something that's sort of been ingrained in my memory for ever and ever, really.
08:36I mean, it was a scary night.
08:37Can we take a look inside?
08:38Yeah, come on.
08:39Please, come on.
08:48Inverery Castle was one of the first to open its doors to the public in 1953.
08:54This is the armoury hall.
08:55This is the big sort of, the wow factor to the castle.
08:58This is the backbone of the castle.
08:59My goodness, this is an extraordinary room.
09:02These are all, you know, original displays of brown vest muskets that have been there
09:06since the early 1800s.
09:07It was a way to bring in much-needed income, while visitors admired the grand surroundings
09:13and collections.
09:15But in 1975, it seemed all was lost.
09:22So I'll take you upstairs and show you where the fire actually started.
09:27And who are all these?
09:29They're all the ancestors.
09:31We go back a long time.
09:33Yeah.
09:34A lot of pictures to look at.
09:35This is the cupboard where it started.
09:38Behind this, behind this, this void.
09:41So it actually started in my mother's walk-in wardrobe, started in there, and then came
09:46through and went through this void and straight up onto the roof.
09:49This is a water pipe, which is a fire hydrant system that was put in after the fire in 1877.
09:56And it was because of this void they cut out then that the fire spread through the roof.
10:00But not able to use on the day of the fire then.
10:02And it wasn't used on the day of the fire now.
10:04You can still see the soot and everything else from the fire.
10:08Yeah.
10:08No need to clean it down.
10:09It's part of history.
10:10Yeah, 50 years later.
10:11Can we head on up then?
10:12And we can go up to the roof and have a look up there too.
10:21It was a wooden roof that we had up here, wooden beams and everything else.
10:25And the fire spread very, very quickly and all the way around all four sides of the castle
10:30and took the whole roof off and burnt everything on this floor.
10:37It was a battle against overwhelming odds as the fire ripped through the castle.
10:44By midnight, firemen from all over Strathclyde region had brought the blaze under control.
10:49Some of the firemen had to travel from Clydebank, 70 miles away.
10:53But despite their efforts, the damage was extensive.
10:56The roof of the castle and two upper floors were gutted.
11:00Amid the smouldering, soaking ruins, it looked like the castle's precious contents would be lost.
11:06But the people of Inverere thought otherwise.
11:11The local community came up and without them, a lot of the contents, or what, pretty much all of the
11:17contents of the castle wouldn't have survived.
11:20You know, they helped form chains with the fire brigade to get the tapestries out, the furniture out, the pictures
11:26out, and anything they could get their hands on.
11:28So really a great community spirit and thanks to them that, you know, we're still here today.
11:34It was perhaps those heroic efforts that inspired Torquil's parents, the 12th Duke and Duchess of Argar, to save the
11:42castle and rebuild.
11:44This is obviously now fully restored.
11:46Uh-huh.
11:47We're in the process of cleaning the place, dusting the place down, spring cleaning, getting ready for, you know, the
11:52next tourist season.
11:53You look at it today, you never would have known that anything was any different because it looks exactly the
11:59same.
11:59So, you know, it took approximately five years to get everything dried out, restored, get all the wood treated, and
12:07to sort of bring it back into, you know, the glory that it was beforehand.
12:10And thanks to the hard work that my parents put into it to get everything right.
12:14And now you're just about to open your doors for the season as well.
12:18Well, you know, we're very lucky.
12:20We welcome, you know, in excess of 100,000 people here every summer.
12:25And, you know, it gives me a huge amount of joy and pleasure to see people come and go, wow,
12:30this is amazing.
12:31You know, so, you know, all the hard work, not necessarily just mine, but all the generations beforehand.
12:36You know, there's still people today that really appreciate, you know, what we have here and really appreciate the history
12:42and the story and the beauty of Argyle.
12:44Because Argyle's always sunny, we know this.
12:46Well, if you live here, I can promise you, the sun always shines in Argyle.
12:50Thank you very much for showing me, Ray.
12:51Pleasure.
12:57Now, the beauty of the landscape here in Argyle is clear to see, but sometimes it's found in the little
13:05things we almost miss.
13:08Liana's in East Sutherland to see an overlooked species that's just as beautiful.
13:20On the edge of Goulspie, Big Burn Walk cuts deep into the landscape.
13:27Waterfalls rush through the narrow gorge, filled with ancient trees and birdsong.
13:36In this hidden gem, nature comes alive.
13:40But if you look a little closer, there's something else here that doesn't move, doesn't sing and definitely doesn't leap
13:47out at you.
13:48It's hiding in plain sight, a bit like nature's introvert.
13:53Lichen, and to shed light on it, is High Life Highland countryside ranger, Marcia O'Hara.
14:01Hi, Marcia.
14:02Hi.
14:02Nice to meet you.
14:03Nice to meet you.
14:04Shall we go see what we can find?
14:05Yeah, let's go.
14:12Marcia is introducing me to some of the lichens that thrive here, each with its own unusual name.
14:20So this is quite a cool lichen.
14:22It's one of the dog lichens, one of the kind of big obvious ones.
14:27It gets its name because on the underside, you've got all these little risings here that resemble dog's teeth.
14:36And then in contrast around here, we've got a completely different type, this white kind of colouring all on the
14:43underside of the bark here.
14:44And if you look closely, there's lots of little black squiggly lines.
14:48This is scriptolichen, and it gets its name because it resembles little hieroglyphs, so it's kind of not big and
14:57bushy, it's embedded in the bark.
14:59Yeah, I can actually see, like, it looks like lettering.
15:01It's so intricate.
15:02And what exactly is a lichen?
15:05Good question.
15:07Basically, it is a symbiotic relationship between a fungus and an algae.
15:12But what we found out recently is there's more parts involved than that.
15:17There was yeast and bacteria that may be involved in the relationship as well.
15:25So, not plants as I thought, but part fungi, part algae.
15:30Oh, this looks, this looks really cool.
15:32There are 1,500 lichens in Scotland, mostly on the wetter west coast.
15:38Here in the east, though, they're surprisingly rare.
15:41This is the star of the show.
15:43This is probably one of the biggest lichens that we can find in the UK.
15:46It's called Lungwort, and it gets that name because of all the branching in the lobes here that resemble human
15:54lungs.
15:55It takes a long time to establish, and it needs really clean air.
15:59So the fact that the trees in this gorge have been left, they've not been cut down for hundreds of
16:06years,
16:06but that is perfect conditions for this to grow.
16:10The lichens found here tell an important story.
16:14Their presence reveals just how special and how undisturbed this environment really is.
16:21They're really good indicators of clean air.
16:24We tend to say that the fluffier your lichen, the cleaner the air.
16:28It's really cute.
16:32It's fairly important because it provides a habitat, a little micro-habitat, for lots of things, particularly invertebrates.
16:40Then all those invertebrates that are being supported by this will be food for tons of other things,
16:46like lots of birds and pine martens and things like that as well.
16:50And it is gorgeous.
16:56There are over 6 million sheep in Scotland, and while their meat might be valued, what's growing on their back,
17:04less so.
17:05Roses in Sutherland meet in the moment, whose mission is to bring real value back to the fleece.
17:19This is a beautiful Hebridean fleece, shorn last summer here in the Highlands.
17:25But once it's come off the sheep, it's worth less than a pound to the farmer.
17:30That's it.
17:33But it wasn't always like this.
17:35The wool check once covered the cost of a farm's rent for a year.
17:40That was until mass-produced synthetic fibres caused a crash in wool prices in the 70s and 80s.
17:47But here on their farm near Ardgai...
17:50Come on now.
17:52Oh!
17:52Donna and Donald Gillis are reviving processes from the past to find a market for their fleeces.
17:59Hello, Donna.
18:00Hi, Rosie.
18:01How are you doing?
18:02Good.
18:03Welcome.
18:05I started looking for what to do with the fleeces, because we need to use every part of the sheep
18:10we can.
18:11We needed a mill.
18:13We needed one, and we had the empty buildings.
18:17Donna is helping create something that's largely disappeared from the Highlands, a local wool industry.
18:23All of the fleeces that we're working with right now are actually from this glen.
18:28Up the glen, across the firth, next door, and of course from the farm.
18:33Doesn't get more local than that, does it?
18:35Local is good.
18:36Yeah, we like local.
18:37What happens to this?
18:39After you've got this raw material, where do you go from there?
18:41When it comes in, it's straight off the sheep.
18:43It's had a bit of cleaning and all that.
18:45And it'll go over to the sorting room in the porter cabin.
18:49And at that point, we will clean it up as much as we can, get the bits, the straw, all
18:55that out.
18:56Give it a good hairbrush.
18:57Yeah, get a good shake and a pick.
18:59And then it goes to the washroom, and then it's ready for the big machines.
19:05Once the fleeces have been washed and dried, they're fed through a picking machine,
19:09which opens up the fleece, transforming it into fibres.
19:16OK, engage.
19:18Then, some more refinement, in a very special piece of kit.
19:24The next bunch is going in.
19:28You know, it is amazing, the things you find in farmshed.
19:33This is Donna's pride and joy, a carding machine.
19:38It combs the messy fibres into a nice straight web, creating a bat ready for spinning or crafting.
19:46This machine was probably built in the late 1800s.
19:50And about four years ago, we found it in a barn in Oven.
19:54And what sort of condition was it in?
19:56Yeah, you can imagine.
19:58If you look and see all the rust in the bits we haven't cleaned up, the whole thing was like
20:03that.
20:03It was covered in cobwebs.
20:06Leaves that had gotten into the barn somehow was all woven in.
20:10It needed a good clean, yeah.
20:12And you have done that magnificently.
20:15I feel like it does deserve a name.
20:17This beautiful machine.
20:19Yeah, she's got a name.
20:21We call her Caroline.
20:22We call her Swede Caroline.
20:25With Caroline restored to her former glory, over the last year she has processed wool from lots of local farmers
20:32and crofters.
20:33But for Donna, this is about so much more than just processing fibres.
20:39It empowers farmers to take this business back again.
20:44It gives them more agency to say where their harvest is going.
20:50So it really is a win-win for everybody.
20:53Yeah, it is a really deep and ancient heritage of the Highlands here to be working with our own wool.
21:08This is the end product.
21:11A bat of wool, highly prized by crafters.
21:14I like the idea of selling on the carded wool because I think it's at its most potential then.
21:21It can be spun.
21:22It can be wet felted, needle felted.
21:25You can twist it and make a peg loom rug.
21:28There's so many things that a carded bat can be used for.
21:31And I like the idea that from us it goes out into the world and into talented hands who will
21:36do that.
21:40In case you missed the last programme, let me tell you, Lambert is 50.
21:45And in this series we'll be delving into the archive to find out what happened next.
21:50This time, Arlene's following in the footsteps of Lambert legend Ken Rundle.
21:56Back in 2008, he went on a romantic getaway, all on his lonesome.
22:02Don't be sad for him, though.
22:04As usual, he was at the leading edge of a new angle on farm diversification.
22:11When Ken went to Angus 18 years ago, a farm wasn't necessarily the obvious location for an amorous break.
22:22One couple have found a way of turning a derelict old bothy into a location for love.
22:30There's definitely a gap in the market.
22:32There was lots of self-catering places in Scotland you could hire, two or three bedrooms.
22:37But not many just for couples and not many spec'd out highly for the honeymoon market.
22:45So we've now got the hideaway, so we spec'd it with a sauna and a double jacuzzi, a four-poster
22:51bed and a wood-burning stove.
22:54So it's not just your run-of-the-mill sort of clothing.
22:57This agri-tourism, visiting or staying on a working farm or croft,
23:02has really taken off across Scotland in the years since Ken's break.
23:06The millers themselves have expanded their offering,
23:10and Caroline now leads the trade body Scottish Agri-Tourism.
23:14We were one of the first people in Scotland to kind of go into a romantic breaks route.
23:20Yes, people were kind of interested in what we were doing,
23:24but it has proved to be really popular and our business has grown.
23:29So now we've got five luxury hideaways and people coming from all over the world to stay.
23:33What's happened over the last 20 years is the diversity of offering from weddings and tours and farm retail and
23:42pop-up events,
23:44that has really changed.
23:45So that has driven a growth in agri-tourism.
23:47So it's not a new thing, but it's really taking off now.
23:51Nearly a thousand farms in Scotland are now offering some form of leisure activity on site,
23:56and it's becoming a big player in the rural economy.
24:00With about two and a half million day visitors coming on to Scottish farms
24:04and 200,000 people staying on a Scottish farm overnight,
24:08last year it was estimated to be worth 292 million in terms of the turnover from the farms alone.
24:17Another farmer embracing the boom in agri-tourism is Balfour Stuart from Bankrug near Haddington.
24:24Arlene, welcome.
24:26He grows wheat and barley, but it only makes enough for one pay packet.
24:31I had to change because my son, he basically said, look, I'd really like to come home.
24:38But financially, could you afford that?
24:39No, I couldn't.
24:40I said, no, there's just, this is a one-income farm.
24:43And so he said, well, what will we do?
24:46We'll have to do something.
24:47I'm very excited to see what you've done here.
24:49Can you show me around?
24:50Yeah, it's pretty good.
24:51Is it?
24:52Excellent.
24:53Balfour still grows crops, but the farm now plays host to nine buses.
24:59They don't go anywhere, but provide high-end accommodation
25:03for anyone wanting to enjoy the delights of the East Lothian countryside.
25:09We want it to be unique, and this is about as unique as you can get.
25:15And it's accommodation for people, bringing them out,
25:18sharing this beautiful view with them, sharing the peace, the tranquillity.
25:23What difference has this made to your family as a whole, going into agri-tourism?
25:29We've just got a steady income now that you could never guarantee in farming.
25:34You can look ahead and you can say, well, we've got all these bookings coming on board.
25:38They've paid deposits, so we've got money already in the bank.
25:42And it's just guaranteed.
25:45And farming, you can't do that.
25:47And the benefits spread well beyond Bankrug Farm.
25:51We are bringing 3,000 people in a year who are then supporting the local village.
25:57And then we point them in all directions of East Lothian and say,
26:00you should visit that.
26:02So the rural economy is much better off by having us being successful.
26:08Ken relaxed with a luxurious soak at the end of his item.
26:12So it's only fitting I do the same.
26:16And like Ken, I thought it was quite important to fully commit to this story.
26:21I am a professional, after all.
26:23And what a way to enjoy Scotland's countryside.
26:33That brings us to the end of this programme.
26:36If you'd like to watch it again or indeed catch our 50th anniversary episode,
26:41go to the BBC iPlayer and search for Landward.
26:44On our next programme, we'll be looking at the impact of depopulation on rural communities.
26:50Anne sees the high school that's less than half full.
26:53In S1 in particular, we've only got three pupils.
26:57We never thought it was going to be easy, let's be honest.
26:59But we didn't think it was going to be quite as hard as it has been either.
27:02Rosie hears the realities of setting up home in the Highlands.
27:07And the big ideas that might help people stay.
27:10We need land prices dropping and we need house prices dropping
27:13so that local people can actually afford their housing.
27:17Please join us for that and much, much more if you can.
27:20In the meantime, from all the Lambert teams around the country
27:23and especially me here at Inverity Castle,
27:26thank you so much for your company.
27:28Bye for now.
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