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Pilgrimage Season 8 Episode 2
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Short filmTranscript
00:01The spectacular landscapes of North East England.
00:05Oh, my God, look at this view.
00:08A cradle of English Christianity.
00:11From where a new faith spread throughout England and beyond.
00:16As soon as you see that cross, you know you're in good hands.
00:19It's here that seven celebrities are forging their very own pilgrimage.
00:24Wow, look at this!
00:27Among them, a pilgrim with a strong Christian faith.
00:31We do have a path that I believe God intends for us.
00:36And I think part of the journey of life is seeing if you can find it.
00:42An observant Muslim.
00:44There's a line in Frasier where he says ethics is what we do when no one's looking.
00:48That chimes in with Islam. Everything you do should be to please Allah.
00:52And that makes you a better person.
00:54And the self-proclaimed a la carte Catholic.
00:57I take the best bits of Catholicism.
01:01I love the service and the pomp and the circumstance of it all.
01:05I believe the power of prayer.
01:08They'll trace the footprint of legendary Celtic Christian saints from the 7th century.
01:13That's the most beautiful view I've ever seen in my life.
01:16Before arriving at that final destination, the holy island of Lindisfarne.
01:20Some people think this is the holiest place in England.
01:25Over 12 days.
01:27Oh, God!
01:28There will be challenges.
01:29Oh, it is really slippery.
01:31You're like my carer.
01:33Realizations.
01:34We have very different views, don't we?
01:36And tears.
01:37For the first time, I feel like I belong somewhere.
01:41Common pilgrimage, they said.
01:43Come on, Patsy!
01:44I'm coming!
01:46But where will this journey of self-discovery take them?
01:49Great pilgrimage, everybody!
01:51Thank you!
01:58Over the past few days, the pilgrims have been making their way towards the city of Durham.
02:03Now it's all good.
02:04Wow, look at that!
02:05Finally, they came within sight of Durham Cathedral.
02:09The final resting place for three 7th century northern saints.
02:14This is very cool.
02:15You just need a little logo, Visit England.
02:17Yeah.
02:17And they crossed Preben's Bridge to the city's historic centre.
02:25The group began their journey four days ago in North Yorkshire, near Whitby,
02:30on the way of St Hild.
02:32And have travelled on foot and by bus until they reach Durham.
02:36With 300 kilometres still to go, they'll head towards Heavenfield,
02:41the start of St Oswald's Way.
02:44The pilgrims will explore the glorious coastline,
02:47before traversing north-west to St Cuthbert's Way in the Cheviots in the Scottish borders.
02:53They'll make their way to the legendary Cuthbert's Cave,
02:56before heading to Holy Island, also known as Lindisfarne, their final destination.
03:02For more than a thousand years, the faithful have trekked across the changing tidal sands
03:08to reach this historic place of pilgrimage.
03:18So, Durham Cathedral.
03:23Durham is one of the oldest cities in the north of England.
03:27At its heart, on the River Weir, sits the 12th Century Cathedral,
03:31home to the tomb of Cuthbert, the north's most beloved saint.
03:37Jane, you know a lot about Cuthbert, right?
03:39Yeah, this is my guy.
03:40Yeah, Cuthbert's like your dude, right?
03:42He is.
03:43Radio presenter Jane Middlemiss is from Northumberland.
03:47I was christened in St Cuthbert's Church.
03:50It's nice to have that local figure.
03:52Yeah.
03:53And the really weird thing about it is, I don't think it's conscious.
03:56You know, I grew up as a child, listening to stories about Cuthbert.
04:00Yeah.
04:01And I was at a C of E school and...
04:03Can't wait to meet him.
04:05He's dead!
04:06Right, no, yeah, OK.
04:08Cuthbert was a revered monk and hermit of Lindisfarne,
04:11known for his preaching and miracles.
04:14He died in 687 AD,
04:17but in the wake of Viking raids on the island,
04:20the monks fled in 875,
04:24taking Cuthbert's sacred body with them.
04:27For over a hundred years,
04:29he was carried by monks throughout the northeast
04:31until they found a safe place to settle.
04:35So, basically, the monks who were carrying his body
04:38found this place, this spot here.
04:41They set his body down
04:42and then the cathedral was built around him.
04:44Wow.
04:47Ah!
04:48Hello!
04:49Hello, everybody!
04:50On their way into the cathedral,
04:52the group are greeted by canon Charlie Allen
04:54and introduced to an ancient pilgrim tradition.
04:58So, one of the things we do
04:59is offer people foot washing as they arrive.
05:02If you'd like to come and have a foot wash,
05:04come in this direction.
05:06Ashley Banjo, leader of dance troupe Diversity,
05:10isn't keen on the idea.
05:12I can't deal with my feet being touched.
05:13My feet are the most ticklish.
05:15Oh, yeah!
05:17So, you've got to imagine yourself back to medieval times.
05:20We know that people came here from Europe,
05:22from here, there and everywhere.
05:23And then you arrive to this wonderful Ministry of Hospitality,
05:26someone washing your feet,
05:27someone giving you food to eat.
05:29It was a really, really big thing.
05:31So, if you just lift that up and put that over that bowl,
05:33then it's a very refreshing experience,
05:36physically and also spiritually.
05:39So, there you go.
05:46It's hot.
05:49It's hot.
05:52Oh, yes, it is hot.
05:54Nice, though.
05:54It really is.
05:55Thank you, Charlie.
05:56And do you take cash or card?
05:57I'm joking.
05:59It's just a joke.
06:00It's all gift.
06:00Thank you so much, Charlie.
06:02Got my big Irish feet.
06:04Huge toes.
06:06There you go.
06:07Oh, that's lovely.
06:08But stand-up comedian Ashley Blaker
06:10I'm not going to do any washing...
06:12..decides to opt out.
06:13This isn't my...
06:14I don't walk into an abbey and feel,
06:18oh, I belong here, because I don't.
06:21It feels kind of alien to me.
06:23No.
06:23It's interesting that when you're Jewish, you are,
06:25and that's part of being Jewish, is being an outsider.
06:28It's a welcoming place, but I know I don't belong.
06:32I think you belong.
06:35Durham Cathedral is a significant pilgrimage site.
06:38You can sort of feel all the history.
06:41As well as the Shrine of Cuthbert,
06:43there's the tomb of the Venerable Bede, or Saint Bede,
06:47the great Anglo-Saxon scholar who wrote in the 8th century
06:51about the lives of the 7th century Celtic Christian saints,
06:55like Cuthbert.
06:58My God.
07:01It just smells like church.
07:03Mm.
07:03The candles.
07:05Mm.
07:05Oh, my Lord.
07:07The pilgrims make their way through the cathedral,
07:10a UNESCO World Heritage site.
07:12Wow.
07:13This is breathtaking.
07:15Famed for its Norman architecture.
07:17That stained glass is incredible.
07:19Yeah.
07:20It's awe-inspiring.
07:22Even six-foot-six Ashley Banjo feels small.
07:26Yeah.
07:27Here.
07:28You know, you've stood before God.
07:29Yeah.
07:30You feel small.
07:31Yeah.
07:32Imagine getting married in here.
07:34Huh.
07:34It's got to last.
07:36Yes.
07:36You can't get divorced if you get married in here.
07:41At the eastern end of the cathedral,
07:43behind the high altar, is a door leading to Cuthbert's shrine.
07:48Oh, yeah, I remember this.
07:53Oh.
07:54Oh.
07:55Oh, wow.
07:59Wow.
08:01Cuthbert's body was moved to its final resting place in 1104.
08:06Buried with him is said to be the head of Oswald, king and saint,
08:10who, like Cuthbert, played a significant role
08:13in bringing Christianity to Northumbria.
08:18As a Celtic Christian,
08:20Cuthbert sought closeness with God in solitude,
08:22deep in the wild places of the north.
08:25Have you heard about the legend of Cuthbert?
08:28No.
08:29So, basically, he lived in, you know, a monastic life
08:32and he was doing some praying in the North Sea.
08:35And then, as he came out of the sea,
08:36two sea otters followed him out
08:38and he was freezing and his feet were really cold
08:41and they sat on his feet to warm his feet.
08:44And that was why people sort of, like, said,
08:46he had this affinity with animals and the land
08:48and he was actually quite shamanic in the way he taught.
08:52Look, they're there.
08:53There's these little otters that are in that picture up there.
08:56Oh, yeah.
08:56I love that connection with the wild.
08:59Yeah.
08:59They've almost got, like, their hands clasped in prayer.
09:02It looks like he's praying, doesn't he?
09:04Yeah.
09:04It's interesting.
09:05I read that he didn't want his burial place to become a shrine.
09:09There's a trouble with shrines that then sometimes
09:12it can become almost idolatrous.
09:16Like, we don't know where Moses was buried
09:19because he didn't want to become a shrine
09:22to distract from the worship of God.
09:27It is such an awe-inspiring...
09:32I don't know if monument's the right word.
09:34I don't know if humans would go through all the trouble
09:37to build something quite this beautiful
09:40unless it was in the name of something higher.
09:44Actor Hermione Norris is also moved.
09:47When I sit somewhere like this, I open my heart.
09:54I open my heart...
10:04To that grace, I suppose.
10:07This is it, isn't it?
10:14Enjoy that?
10:15Can you enjoy seeing...
10:15It is in Catholic.
10:16It's sad to leave.
10:18It was amazing, wasn't it?
10:20Yeah.
10:20I feel like I've been on a journey from the moment we arrived
10:23to when we left, don't you?
10:24A bit of an unexpected experience, actually.
10:25Yeah.
10:26Surprising.
10:27Thank you, Durham Cathedral.
10:28Yeah, thank you, Durham Cathedral.
10:32The pilgrims leave the historic lanes
10:34and cobbled alleys behind
10:37and pick up the Way of Light,
10:39a recently created trail,
10:41which heads north-west through valleys and fells
10:44to Heavenfield.
10:46It's here Oswald, the warrior saint,
10:48fought to claim the crown for the Kingdom of Northumbria
10:51in 634 AD.
10:57I'm liking the poles.
10:59Me too.
10:59The poles actually make it easier.
11:01I'm feeling the pole action, guys.
11:03Look at this pace.
11:04I think we should keep this all the way.
11:06I'm starting to feel a bit delirious.
11:08You'll soon be in Heavenfield.
11:12You can be delirious there.
11:14Yeah.
11:14You know there's the wooden cross when we get there?
11:16Because Oswald, when he went to fight the battle,
11:20he was a massive Christian.
11:22Nobody else was.
11:23Yeah.
11:24He prayed to God and he had a much smaller army.
11:26He won the battle and then he said it was because of God
11:28and Christianity.
11:30Jane, you ever thought about starting like a
11:32Cuthbert Oswald fan club?
11:35Like online?
11:36Maybe just like...
11:36I feel like you could be president of the Cuthbert Oswald
11:40Facebook page or something.
11:41Do you know what?
11:41Let's do it.
11:42What shoe size was he, Jane?
11:44Get.
11:44Lost.
11:45Banjo.
11:50The trail leads the pilgrims across open farmland.
11:54We got the map out.
11:56We got it.
11:56Did that way?
11:57Yeah.
11:58Yeah, I think so.
11:58Yeah.
11:59I mean more or less, innit?
12:00Yeah, because it goes around the thing.
12:03Guys, are you sure?
12:04Are you sure about this?
12:05The arrow is going towards the flag.
12:07Yeah, good.
12:07That's a good sign.
12:11All the talk of saints reminds actor Patsy Kensett
12:14of her Catholic school days.
12:16Did you go to a convent?
12:18Yeah.
12:18Taught by nuns.
12:19I think I'd been there, I don't know, one term
12:22and one of the nuns died.
12:24Yeah.
12:24And I must have been about six or seven.
12:26And we had to go, each go in one by one
12:28and sit with her and put...
12:30While she was dead?
12:31While she was lying there dead.
12:32As a six or seven year old?
12:34Oh my Lord.
12:35And all I can remember was she had her fourth teeth
12:38falling out of her mouth.
12:39Oh my God.
12:40And I wanted to push them back into her.
12:42But I had nightmares for a while after that actually.
12:46I don't think it operates like that at all now.
12:50Yeah.
12:52The pilgrims are almost at Oswald's battlefield.
12:57We're close guys.
12:58Are we close?
12:59We are close to the field of heaven.
13:03Oswald was born in 604 AD, 30 years before Cuthbert,
13:07and brought up in exile in the west of Scotland,
13:10probably at the monastery on Iona,
13:12where he became a fervent Celtic Christian.
13:15This is it?
13:15Yeah, it must be.
13:16Excellent.
13:16Where the few triumphed over the many because of faith.
13:20Victory.
13:21In 633, Oswald returned to challenge the powerful king of Gwyneth.
13:26Oh, this is the cross.
13:28Who'd seized the Northumbria throne.
13:30Oh, wow.
13:31So this is where you won the battle?
13:32Yeah, this is it.
13:33This is Heavenfield.
13:35On the eve of battle, in the shadow of Hadrian's Wall,
13:39Oswald fell on his knees praying for victory.
13:42His kingdom secured, he sent for St Aidan from Iona
13:46to establish a priory on the tidal island of Lindisfarne,
13:50which helped to spread Christianity throughout Northumbria and beyond.
13:55And that's St Oswald's church?
13:57Yeah.
13:57Shall we have a look?
13:57Yeah, let's go.
13:59The 19th century church at the top of the field
14:02is thought to have been built over Norman and 7th century foundations.
14:07It's just crazy to think all these years ago
14:09there was a whole battle right here.
14:12And if he hadn't have won, we might not be Christians.
14:16Yeah.
14:17Wow.
14:17Isn't it mad?
14:19It all could have worked out so differently.
14:21And our lives would have been different.
14:22It would have been.
14:24I can't look at if it would have been an advantage
14:25or a disadvantage to be my size
14:27because people would probably just think, take him out first.
14:30Do you know what I mean?
14:30But you have got the height advantage
14:32in terms of the sword is being swung from a...
14:35Yeah.
14:35Well, even the thought of going like this one,
14:37you all think, no, bro, it's terrifying.
14:40Jane, I'm good to know you again.
14:41I've done a lot of searching around lots of different ones.
14:44Okay.
14:44And the most I got from was the yogic teachings.
14:47But, I don't know, coming back here,
14:49it's sort of like reconnecting me to something,
14:51which feels quite nice, you know.
14:52Yeah.
14:53I'm sort of historically Church of England.
14:56TV personality Tasha Goury has been reflecting
14:59on her own spiritual identity.
15:02So, I would say I'm an atheist, but I truly believe
15:05that maybe there is some kind of faith in me,
15:07but I've never recognised it.
15:09And I think today, as beautiful as it was,
15:12you know, walking inside the cathedral,
15:14I don't feel that energy of a sense I maybe belong here.
15:19Yeah, it's really interesting because you refer to yourself
15:22as an atheist.
15:24And yet, what I'm hearing is you've got an idea
15:30that you are actually searching for something.
15:32So, I'm wondering if you're more agnostic than atheist.
15:36So, agonostic.
15:38Agnostic is someone who doesn't know,
15:42doesn't know if there is a God or if there isn't a God,
15:45but they just have a question mark over, like, I'm interested.
15:52So, I feel like I definitely have a question mark
15:54and open-minded to that.
15:57So, maybe I am more of a agnostic.
16:00I think, you know, sometimes we can run,
16:03but we can't hide from what's inside of us.
16:05And some things we are just connected to.
16:08I think it's amazing.
16:09It's amazing, isn't it?
16:10Yeah.
16:12I feel so lucky to be part of such an amazing group.
16:15They have honestly just welcomed me
16:18and they're not judging me once.
16:20You know, they've...
16:21I've had such amazing conversations with each of them
16:24and I feel like a sense of community with them.
16:27You know, I live a very lonely, isolating life
16:30with the industry that I'm in, and for the first time.
16:35So...
16:35Alright.
16:47For the first time, I feel like I belong somewhere,
16:52that I...
16:54I feel a sense of love, kindness and just compassion
17:00and understanding.
17:02And for the first time, I feel like just me.
17:07I'm so grateful that I get to be with them every day.
17:10I'm going to be so sad when this finishes.
17:16Born 17th February 1861, died...
17:2229th July 1937.
17:25So happened.
17:25And his wife's in with him.
17:27She died in November and he died in July.
17:29So she followed him.
17:30That often happens, doesn't it?
17:32I know it does.
17:33I know.
17:35I'm worried about when my cat dies.
17:38Keep him and then have him in with you
17:39or be sprinkled later on, they stay together.
17:42Or have it as a necklace.
17:45I just... I just can't imagine life without him.
17:48I know.
17:49They never go anywhere.
17:50They don't.
17:51I've got my oaths with me now.
17:53She's right there.
17:54Is there?
17:54Yes.
17:56There's only pictures of him.
17:57He's off at boot camp.
18:00Yeah.
18:00And, um...
18:01I think often posthumously they're with you more in a way.
18:04They're with your souls.
18:07And then, of course, this view.
18:09This is an amazing view, isn't it?
18:11It truly is God's land.
18:14Or to think of them having a battle in the middle of nowhere.
18:18Yes.
18:18Like that.
18:19Yeah.
18:19Can you imagine?
18:20Or as in bands need to fight.
18:22Yeah.
18:22You don't catch women running around.
18:24No, you don't.
18:25Macheting each other.
18:26Yeah, exactly.
18:27No.
18:28Men with no knickers on.
18:30Yes.
18:31With no pants on.
18:32No pants.
18:33Running around.
18:34Chopping each other to bits.
18:36Yeah.
18:37And then praying.
18:38And then they're our sons.
18:40Yeah.
18:40And our lovers.
18:41Yeah.
18:44Oh, Hermione.
18:45I know.
18:46What's to become?
18:54Just along from Heavenfield is the UK's best preserved Roman fort, House Steads.
19:00A national landmark along Hadrian's Wall, which the pilgrims are keen to explore.
19:06Wow.
19:06This is going to be fun.
19:07It might be a Baghdad, right, Hermione, this one?
19:11Perfect conditions for a lovely day's home.
19:14But today, they're battling an amber weather warning.
19:18Who else is glad we didn't go to Portugal?
19:21I'd rather this than the foreign parts.
19:23I would like to have this any day.
19:24Me too.
19:25This is real proper English weather.
19:27It is.
19:27Does anyone know much about Hadrian's Wall?
19:30Well, it was for the Romans to keep the barbarians out.
19:33Right.
19:34The people on this land were viewed as a barbarian.
19:36Yes.
19:37Right.
19:37Savages.
19:38Yeah.
19:38When it was built, it was 15 feet high.
19:41Quick question.
19:42Who was Hadrian?
19:45Hadrian was...
19:46What's his proper name?
19:48Plebius?
19:51And then it was Hadrianus.
19:54Oh, yeah.
19:54Excuse me?
19:55Hadrian will suffice.
19:56Hadrian.
19:57Hadrianus.
19:58Yes.
19:58Hadrianus.
19:58Hadrianus.
19:58One more time, Hermione, sorry?
20:00I'd like hearing you say it.
20:04Right, let's just focus on his wall.
20:05Let's forget his Hadrianus.
20:07Let's just focus on the wall.
20:07Let's just get on the wall.
20:11Let's just get on the wall.
20:12In the 2nd century, when Britain was occupied by the Romans,
20:16Hadrian's colossal wall spanned about 118 kilometres
20:20from coast to coast.
20:22Well, these are separate rooms, it looks like.
20:26Up to 800 soldiers and their families lived here at Housesteads,
20:30a military fort.
20:33There were granaries, houses with underfloor heating systems
20:37and Roman streets.
20:40I'm not sure I'm allowed to sit on this,
20:43getting the power and energy from the rocks.
20:46As they wander the ruins, comedian Hassan al-Habib
20:50is drawn to the facilities.
20:52Okay guys, I'd appreciate some privacy now.
20:55We've arrived at the toilets.
20:56Oh.
20:57Look at the sophistication of it all.
21:00A communal latrine.
21:03For the purposes of maintaining good hygiene
21:06amongst the, it says, 800 men living in this fort.
21:09They had to come up with a sanitation system.
21:12Highly sophisticated for the time, I understand.
21:14Men would essentially sit along two rows.
21:18They would defecate, I believe is the term.
21:21Poo.
21:22Exactly.
21:23And then there would be sticks with rags
21:28that they'd clean themselves with afterwards.
21:31A communal stick.
21:32Yeah.
21:33What?
21:33A communal stick to wipe your bottom after you've done a poo.
21:37But they must have, like, cleaned the cloth.
21:39Well...
21:40I mean...
21:41I doubt it.
21:42Sponges were available in the Mediterranean.
21:44Okay.
21:45But at Halstead's it may have been moss, bracken or rags.
21:48It's a good team bundle session.
21:50Yeah, yeah, yeah.
21:50You know, you're all in it together.
21:52You can chat about your life.
21:54Right.
21:54The one thing we should take from this though.
21:56Yeah?
21:56The word latrine.
21:57Latrine.
21:59Farewell, latrine.
22:00Au revoir.
22:01Weird, isn't it?
22:02The loose bit that's really squished.
22:04I know.
22:05I could do with a latrine, actually.
22:07Me too.
22:07Yeah.
22:10While Ashley, Tasha and Jane go ahead
22:13to prepare the group's overnight accommodation,
22:15a basic hostel,
22:18the rest of the pilgrims have the chance
22:20to find out more about Judaism.
22:22It's another faith with strong roots
22:25in this part of the country,
22:26and they're visiting Newcastle's Reform Synagogue.
22:31Newcastle's one of the UK's designated
22:33cities of sanctuary and has a long history
22:36of welcoming immigrants and refugees.
22:40In the late 19th century,
22:42it became home to hundreds of Jews
22:44fleeing East European oppression
22:46and those escaping Nazi persecution
22:49in the 1930s and 40s.
22:53I'll be honest with you,
22:55I don't think I've ever been inside
22:57a Reform synagogue.
23:00This synagogue follows a very different branch
23:03of Judaism to the one Ashley once followed.
23:06I was a ultra-Orthodox Jew for 15 years.
23:10Hassan, put this on and you...
23:12Yes.
23:14You're a Jew.
23:14Welcome.
23:15Give me a hug.
23:16I'm still very proudly Jewish.
23:18Thank you, brother.
23:19It has a huge role in my life
23:21in terms of defining who I am.
23:24I don't think I can ever shake that.
23:25Shoes off?
23:26No, no, no, no.
23:27No, that's yours.
23:29Here, no, shoes on.
23:30But I don't feel the need to keep the rules.
23:35I feel that's for other people.
23:36Welcome.
23:37Hello, I'm Ashley.
23:39Welcome, Ashley.
23:39The pilgrims are met by Brenda and Linda.
23:42Lovely to meet you too.
23:43I love your hair.
23:44Who are both active members of the synagogue community.
23:47Thank you for having us.
23:48Is it the first time you've been in a synagogue?
23:50Yes.
23:50It's my first time ever in a Reform synagogue.
23:54Right.
23:54What's the difference between...
23:56Reform...
23:57So Reform Judaism joined with Liberal
24:00to form Progressive Judaism UK.
24:03So there are different strands of Judaism.
24:07OK.
24:07One of the big differences here in a Reform community
24:12or a Progressive community is that families can sit together,
24:17men and women, and boys and girls can all be together.
24:21Actually, our previous four rabbis have been women.
24:24Right.
24:25So men and women are completely equal.
24:29Yeah.
24:30And that's not the case in the Orthodox synagogue.
24:32Absolutely not.
24:34I mean, we can take part in the service, we can lead the service,
24:38whereas in the Orthodox community it wouldn't be allowed.
24:41I would say, if I'm allowed to, that it's not that they're not equal,
24:47because they are entirely equal in the Orthodox world.
24:50They have different roles.
24:52Very different.
24:53Different roles.
24:54Different roles.
24:54Not unequal.
24:55You said unequal.
24:56Not unequal.
24:57Different.
24:57In terms of a service, I would need to sit behind a screen
25:01or upstairs.
25:03Upstairs.
25:03And not to participate.
25:05Participate in a different way.
25:06By praying.
25:07By praying.
25:08By praying.
25:08More comfortable here, I think.
25:11For you.
25:12For many people who wish to be with their families.
25:15Mm.
25:16That's the thing.
25:17We have very different views, don't we?
25:19Well, two Jews, three opinions.
25:21Exactly.
25:22That's exactly how it is.
25:23Everybody's right.
25:24I like that.
25:25And I'm righter than everybody.
25:26Yes.
25:27Yeah.
25:28There have long been differences between the more recent reform movement,
25:32with its more flexible approach, and the traditions of Orthodox Judaism.
25:38So, feel free to have a look around.
25:40If you need any help, advice, talk to Linda.
25:43Talk to me.
25:43Talk to Ashley.
25:46Don't necessarily listen to everything you say.
25:49We're not...
25:50We're not going to agree, are we?
25:51We're never going to agree.
25:54That's what a synagogue is, though, isn't it?
25:57Can I ask you something?
25:58Of course.
25:59Will you tell me what the significance of these candles are,
26:03that are everywhere in the Jewish faith?
26:05The seven-branched candles.
26:06The seven, yes.
26:07That's called a menorah.
26:08A menorah.
26:09The seven-branched candelabra, which is part of the temple service.
26:13We use a slightly different one with eight branches at Hanukkah.
26:19It's called a chanakiyah.
26:20Come and I'll show you.
26:22Now, this has eight, and the one in the middle is the servant, the shamash.
26:26And, simplistically, it was at a time when Jews were in the temple,
26:32with only enough oil for one night.
26:34As long as there was light, they weren't attacked.
26:36But a miracle happened, of course.
26:39It's got to be a miracle.
26:40And there was enough oil for eight days.
26:42And in commemoration of that, we light our candles,
26:46and we eat foods fried in oil.
26:49So we have doughnuts.
26:51So we eat unhealthy, oily food for eight days a year.
26:54And then for the other rest of the year, we eat even more unhealthy food.
27:00Wow.
27:00Where do I sign up?
27:01This sounds fantastic.
27:04One of the synagogue's three Torah scrolls was rescued at the end of World War II
27:09from Pardubice in the Czech Republic,
27:12where the Jewish community was virtually wiped out during the Holocaust.
27:17We have the honour, the privilege, and the sacred duty, if you like,
27:22to use this scroll.
27:25Mm-hm.
27:26Now, it's quite unusual.
27:28There's no vows, so you can't touch it.
27:30Right hand.
27:30You don't touch it with your hand.
27:32Oh, God.
27:32You use a pointer, which is called...
27:34Have I done it?
27:34It's fine, don't we?
27:35It's a pointer called a yad.
27:37And we read through the whole thing in a year.
27:39And we're kind of towards the end at the moment.
27:40And it's right to the left.
27:42I have to say that you've, like, blown my mind today a little bit in here,
27:46because I sensed a real passion in you that's...
27:50I know, but I think it's...
27:52Has it re-ignited?
27:53It's re-ignited, sorry.
27:54Exactly, it's re-ignited.
27:55My Yiddish Neshama, you know what that is?
27:58A Jewish soul, and it never goes away.
28:01It doesn't go away.
28:01It doesn't go away.
28:01You can run away from it, but it doesn't go away.
28:03It doesn't go away from it.
28:06Hermione wants to understand Ashley's strong reaction to being in a Reform synagogue.
28:11It's interesting, because I obviously haven't been religious for a long time.
28:19But when I come into a Reform synagogue, it makes me quite defensive, almost quite angry, really.
28:28There are many things that I'm doing, like what I'm eating, or that I'm not keeping
28:33the Sabbath, or I've got tattoos, that are against the rules.
28:36But I know they're against the rules, whereas here, there are no rules.
28:41When we went to Durham Cathedral, I felt a bit alien.
28:46But the same thing gets unsettled when I come somewhere like this, and I think,
28:51no, this isn't, this isn't, this isn't my Judaism.
28:54But surely, if it's going to Durham Cathedral does that, and coming to a Reform synagogue does that,
29:01it's actually emboldening and reaffirming what you really, who you really are,
29:07and what you really, really believe in.
29:09But I think it shows that, even though I might not observe any more, I'm still a Jew.
29:14Fair dinks.
29:17This synagogue was founded in the early 1960s by Jewish families, including refugees who fled the Nazis during the Holocaust,
29:27and has strong links with current-day immigrants.
29:30We have people that will help fill in forms for them.
29:34We, as a community, collect food and clothing.
29:38What can we do to help these people?
29:40Yeah.
29:41And I think that's Jewish tradition.
29:43It's certainly our family tradition.
29:45My family were immigrants.
29:47My family were actually, shall I say, encouraged to leave Russia around about 1890,
29:53and settled in Newcastle in an area where there was a high percentage of Jewish people.
30:01Really?
30:01And the story goes that they arrived at Hull.
30:07They did think it was America, and couldn't speak English.
30:11And the person who admitted them to England said, you know, what's your name?
30:16And they couldn't speak.
30:17And the chap said to them, it's okay.
30:20You're a free man now.
30:22So our family name from England is Freeman.
30:26Freeman.
30:26That's a lovely story.
30:27And there are a lot of Jewish people called Freeman who are not related.
30:31Yeah.
30:31Because the same thing obviously happened to them.
30:33So they were met with real kindness.
30:36Absolutely.
30:37Yeah.
30:37Absolutely.
30:38Yeah.
30:38Brenda, would it be okay if, as a Muslim, I used this space here in the synagogue to pray?
30:43It would be wonderful.
30:45Oh, thank you, Brenda.
30:45That's very sweet.
30:50Definite parallels between myself and Brenda.
30:53Coming from an immigrant family, you really remember and treasure those acts of kindness
30:58shown to you by people that have less in common with you.
31:02The reason I wanted to pray in there is the Torah being recognized in Islam.
31:07It made perfect sense to me.
31:09This is a building dedicated to worship.
31:13So, in that sense, it felt very natural to do that.
31:22The Pilgrims' off-grid hostel is in Harwood Forest, deep inside Northumberland National Park.
31:30So, the kettle is on.
31:32Ash, do you want to look after the kettle while me and Tash do a bit of...
31:35Yeah, yeah, yeah, no problem.
31:36Ashley, Tasha and Jane arrived earlier and are settling in.
31:41So, one minute.
31:42When this screams at me...
31:43Yes.
31:44...pour the water in there.
31:44That's it.
31:45I can do that.
31:46I feel...
31:46I'm just in the way, aren't I, really?
31:47No.
31:48Oh, wait.
31:50Right on cue.
31:50I've never used one of these before.
31:52Have you not?
31:52So, that's done, right?
31:53Yeah.
31:54Argh!
31:56Oh, my God!
31:57Argh!
31:58Did I just...
31:59Pull it under...
32:01No, pull it under cold water.
32:02No, still do it.
32:03You still do it.
32:04Because it gets hot.
32:05You didn't tell me that I had to pick up the kettle with a thing.
32:07To be honest, I forgot.
32:10Oh!
32:11Is it really sore?
32:12No, no, it's not that bad.
32:13Stick it under the towel.
32:14It was just hot.
32:15Shock.
32:16It just shocked me because I'm used to a Morphe Richards where you just...
32:20A place of rest for the night.
32:23Ah.
32:24I see pilgrims.
32:25Oh!
32:27Pilgrims!
32:28Oh, hi!
32:30Welcome.
32:32Oh, how cosy.
32:33Into the warm.
32:35Shalom.
32:35How's everyone feeling?
32:36Are you cold?
32:37Freezing.
32:38Yeah.
32:38There's a little stove in there.
32:39It's nice and warm.
32:40Do you want to go in there and make yourself comfy?
32:41I'll bring some more wood.
32:42Let's get this nice and warm.
32:44Thanks, team.
32:46How was it, guys?
32:47How was your trip?
32:48Yeah, how was the synagogue?
32:49Honestly, they were very nice to us, Brenda and Linda.
32:53Very kind, very generous to their time.
32:57Allowed me to pray.
32:58Aw, that's nice.
33:00Really, really nice.
33:00What do you guys think?
33:01I spent quite a bit of time with Linda and this one...
33:06Were you being combative?
33:08What happened, Ash?
33:10It's not for me, let's put it like that.
33:12What, the Reformed synagogue?
33:14Yeah.
33:14Why?
33:15So, it made me feel quite uncomfortable.
33:18I mean, when I was more observant, I wouldn't even have stepped inside there.
33:22Why, Ash?
33:23Because it's a totally different religion.
33:25All the rabbis rule.
33:27So, also, you can't go inside.
33:29It's a kind of heretical place.
33:32But I'd never actually been inside one before.
33:35And it felt like being in church.
33:39What's interesting, Ash, is you, essentially, you don't follow Judaism anymore.
33:45You don't...
33:45I don't keep the rules.
33:46You don't keep the rules.
33:47So, for someone who doesn't keep the rules and worship, you feel passionate about the rules.
33:52It is strange.
33:52This is what blew my mind, your reaction today to it.
33:57You were fighting your corner.
33:59Yeah.
33:59You always had quite a visceral and emotional response.
34:01I know.
34:02I really do.
34:02It's hard to explain that very, as you say, visceral reaction, just like red rag to a bull.
34:08Mm-hmm.
34:09I just saw a really interesting other side to you.
34:13And I think it's quite touching.
34:16It's like, you'll be at the synagogue next week.
34:19Genuinely, I don't think I will.
34:21What?
34:21That'll be Brenda and Linda right now.
34:24To argue with you.
34:26Yeah.
34:28It's getting late.
34:29And the pilgrims need to figure out their sleeping arrangements.
34:32It's a lot colder up here.
34:34So, this one's got...
34:36I think this one should be the girls.
34:38Because it's bigger and there's four of us.
34:40Okay.
34:41It's not bad.
34:42Do you know what this is?
34:42This is like we're doing basic training.
34:44You and I.
34:44Yeah.
34:45Yeah.
34:47It's chilly.
34:48It's very cold.
34:50I think I may have lucked out.
34:51Really?
34:52Because this is by the radiator.
34:53Oh, you have lucked out.
34:58What have you brought me?
35:01There's no towel, no mirror, no light, no reception.
35:08It's cold.
35:09It's cold.
35:10Cold pilgrimage, they said.
35:17Normally, I'm given a script.
35:19I'm told what to wear, what to say, where to stand, what to do, what the scene's about.
35:24And here, I'm outside my comfort zone, I can tell you.
35:30Yeah.
35:32No mask.
35:37This is weird.
35:39Do you want to watch me put my hormone replacement on?
35:50I can't wait.
35:51But I'm going to tuck in for the night.
35:53I'm actually quite looking forward to it.
35:54It's been a long, old day.
36:16there's nothing around for a very long way if you run out of milk i mean you'd get to a
36:23cow
36:23quicker than you would do to a supermarket to find any milk
36:32look at this this is literally the life incredible view you feel so at peace even though i kept
36:40thinking all night anything was to happen how are we going to get out of here i'd say how we
36:43got out of here how ashley banjo the protector of course no one's coming no one's kidnapping
36:48anyone whilst that man's around so you'll just call yourself and just run out exactly exactly
36:56so everyone have a good night oh i slept so deep did you yeah it's really cozy
37:02i was up and down actually last night yeah right you see yeah which way pilgrims down
37:09down down down into the depths of our soils bye bye thank you what a place yeah it was amazing
37:18wasn't it stunning isn't it yeah
37:22it's nice not to be in the pouring rain isn't it it's a new day and another day and another
37:28saint
37:28who's our saint today aren't we going on a bit of oswald's wear are we okay
37:34but their first stop this morning before they reach the trail will be a retreat center celebrating
37:40new monasticism really interesting actually because there's so much stuff about like the
37:46sound of celtic christianity that sounds beautiful right it's like absolutely god in nature and the
37:51landscape especially because in modern society now we've lost maybe that that simplicity that's
37:58word isn't it the simplicity precisely so i wonder how how simple of a life this new monasticism is
38:06i can imagine they're happy right how much deeper of a life it must be as well yeah because of
38:12how
38:12shallow and how vain we can be on social media now if we turn up and they've got a hot
38:18tub i'm not
38:28easily like a hermit i'm quite happy me and the cat so it's been great to be around people and
38:35what challenging though isn't it it is it really is challenging yeah would you do it again no no no
38:45cold shower you showered this morning i was like i had a horse bath
38:50and you know i had a look around with a you know ben brush i'm sorry if i smell you
38:59don't you don't
38:59smell how are you feeling about today all right fascinating to see how this is going to be like
39:04yeah me too new monasticism are they going to have the haircut i wonder the celts had uh
39:12the celtic tonsil which is basically like a mullet they might all look like me yeah
39:18and have bleach blonde hair and a mustache that'll be cool hipster monks hipster monks maybe
39:28hi hello are you paul i'm paul yes hello paul has been part of the northumbria community for 15
39:36years hello patsy some members live here at nether springs but like many paul comes to the retreat
39:43as a volunteer if i can take you to the chapel which is just down here and introduce you to
39:49sarah
39:50thank you are you gonna take your wheelbarrow paul you take it and then you can push me
39:57don't because i would quite happily
40:02you come in thank you i love it here isn't it nice welcome so this is sarah sarah's been a
40:10member of
40:10the community for 23 years hassan lovely to meet you whatever you're you're sort of selling here i'm i'm
40:19i'm in nether springs is the mother house of a worldwide network of about 2 000 people
40:26here at their retreat the community prays four times a day and their daily lives are inspired by
40:32the 7th century northern saints celtic christian spirituality is an indigenous spirituality and it's
40:41particularly in the northeast i know we call them saint edel and saint cuthbert and st hilde but they
40:47were ordinary men and women and we now revere them because they are like way marks for us in the
40:54past
40:54that help us make sense of the times that we're living within so this community northumbria community
41:00was founded in the 70s and 80s when there was a lot of struggle and turmoil in the northeast of
41:05england
41:06yeah the minor stroke that's right the economic turmoil that was there and the political unease
41:12and suddenly those that you're with and have been alongside there's a struggle
41:19and aiden and cuthbert and oswald and hilde were in such a time there was political upheaval and
41:28struggle what are your practices one of the key monastic principles is taking time aside and taking
41:35time out of normal everyday life and its demands so we talk about going to your cell from what you're
41:42saying do people retreat into themselves and become sort of in isolation hermit yeah yeah i mean because
41:51coming on on this journey for me i'm really like happy being on my own it's been wonderful but i'm
41:59really
42:00out of my comfort zone yes and i know god's in all of us i just hope that i can
42:06really reinforce that
42:08and and be more open and social because i just it's just i find it very very hard what you
42:15have got
42:16is actually really very valuable and really important i mean cuthbert particularly was somebody
42:22who did want to be a lot on his own and so it was like you patsy but he kept
42:27being called to be a
42:29bishop or to be an abbot of a monastery he embraced it and he became someone that we talk about
42:36now you
42:37know so many years later paul takes the pilgrims into the community's walled garden
42:47we have spaces where people can just sit yeah and be with themselves reflect meditate whatever
42:53people like to do so go and find out about them all and spend some time with it thank you
42:57i want to
42:58get your plum i want to say hello to this guy look at this you're a beauty sweet i mean
43:05this life is just how wonderful yeah
43:10like a nice jumper oh we're a lovely jumper make a lovely alpaca jumper and this hairstyle's coming
43:16back in fashion it's a model suit you for some yeah
43:22the garden has a labyrinth used for contemplation and reflection it's sort of like a mini version of a
43:28journey that's a life journey it helps you to think about the turns and the things that change in
43:34your life so do people walk around it then yeah so you enter well there we go and the idea
43:39as you face out of the circle you're thinking about your outer life how you engage with the world
43:45and when you're facing more in you can reflect on okay what who am i really who am i inside
43:54it's a it's a very reflective little walk amana is it it is a great walk
44:00i think it's very beautiful i really like the purity of that celtic
44:06religion and also what she mentioned about the struggle that it rose up around struggle
44:12because i always think faith is born out of adversity really that's the time i've drawn close
44:19and also the one with nature and the seasons and the simplicity lack of pomp and ceremony and all that
44:28is but ashley's finding it hard to connect i'm struggling a bit with the other pilgrims to be
44:34honest it's really strange trying to fit in in a group it's not something i'm used to i find when
44:40we're walking it's a very solo experience and everyone else is deep in conversation i don't know why
44:46it's interesting most of my friends are neurodiverse um weirdos reclaim the word we're a bunch of
44:56neurodiverse weirdos and for us it's quite difficult to enter a typical normal world
45:06i am in what i believe is called a pustynia a pustynia is just is the russian word for desert
45:15and it's a place of silence solitude and prayer really it's a it's a it's a small silent place to
45:26connect with god and what i love is that it feels closer to what i believe and what i practice
45:35weirdly
45:38there's something about it being simple and real and pure that connects to me in a deep deep way
45:48the cuthbertness of this shed is speaking to me genuinely it is thank you so much thank you guys
45:56enjoy lindis farm when you get there it's time for the pilgrims to head off a wonderful experience
46:02great experience east towards the northumberland coast and join st oswald's way they were lovely
46:09really nice they were lovely people wonderful people just people filled with light bro coming
46:13out of them exactly good energy just great energy great energy st oswald's way starts at heavenfield
46:20and goes east crossing northumberland national park the pilgrims are joining it near walkworth
46:26before following it up the coast to dunstanborough castle
46:32quite slippery guys hermione says it's slippery be careful the generally bad weather has been causing
46:39problems for tasha who has a cochlear implant because of the wind like i'm struggling to
46:45hear people's conversations the wind that muffles my microphone and if i got my hood up because it's
46:50raining i hear the rain but it's hitting my hood by the microphone and it really overpowers everybody's
46:56voices especially when we're walking group conversations it's it's been tough for sure and a lot of
47:03time not all the time but a lot of time we're talking about deep stuff that i'm sure you would
47:10want to hear yeah not once i've got like excluded but i feel like being on this journey i think
47:16i'm
47:17struggling to connect with god because there's a borderline that i'm struggling to get over which is
47:23i think if god was all loving why would he give people disabilities i guess it kind of
47:29boils down to if god is all loving why is there suffering in the world why does anyone have to
47:36suffer so i guess with so many of these questions it like it comes back to having faith faith in
47:43allah
47:43that or faith in god that um that you can handle whatever hardship is coming your way that's got me
47:53a
47:53emotional right yeah i think it's lovely to hear you say that because i always struggle with like
48:00that sometimes like why why me it's questionable but then it's also i know it's my purpose i know
48:07to be doing what i'm doing to help people um but sometimes i struggle to like just have that question
48:15no no no i can't let's hug it out are you all right like it's true should we join up
48:26with the
48:26rest of the crew yes they're gonna miss us after a while you see because i feel like we're the
48:29most
48:29popular people on the journey we are a lot of them lack social skills and it's up to us really
48:34to carry
48:34that load the pilgrims are heading for a hermitage belonging to walk with castle owned from the late
48:4114th century by the powerful earls of northumberland i'm looking forward to seeing the hermitage how
48:48hermity is it is it like really alone i don't know the hermitage sits alongside the river coket
48:57carved out of a rocky outcrop it's thought to have been there since the early 1400s are we there yet
49:03it must be nearly there must be nearly there now what yeah that's the one to reach the hermitage
49:13the group will need to cross the river this is our guy steve steve is their boatman and guide
49:21great just step down gently i'm in have you ever had anyone fall in i haven't had any fatalities this
49:28week not this week if you spread the ballast that's it i normally the only time you see an arab
49:40on a small boat it's the 10 o'clock news i'll say to steve as i come on the boat
49:48i'll say to him listen
49:48i want you to know i've got a passport don't there's nothing funny going on here
49:52my family came here on a big boat we're all good just step down gently whoa no no especially you
50:02yeah
50:03especially me i feel like i'm making the boat veered you are little bit i'm making the boat that's that
50:09just grab that handrail on your right take your time thank you steve thanks steve
50:22wow look at this wow it's pretty you can see it's a lot more than a hole in the cliff
50:29and that's
50:29because the occupant was a person's personal hermit priest and this was his place of worship where he
50:36held mass in england the tradition of hermitage which st cuthbert was part of started in the 7th
50:43century i really thought it was going to be like a hole in the wall did you i thought it
50:46was going to
50:46be more like a cave by the middle ages when christianity was firmly established priest hermits
50:52were popular with the aristocracy it's thought their role was to say masses and prayers for the
50:59souls of the earl and his family this is so amazing oh my god that's quite because that's really
51:10substantially sort of made it was proper down the roof nice yeah i know it's a lot more than a
51:15cave
51:15it's got vaulted ceilings it's got these central carved bosses it's got pillars did he used to
51:22live in here originally he did live in here right so this here is the altar
51:30and behind the altar and that recess there would have been some sort of religious icon or a crucifix
51:36and then the window here is a nativity scene where this is the virgin mary can you see her head
51:42lying
51:43down that's her lying flat that's a baby jesus on her chest where my hand is so that's the chapel
51:49late
51:5014th century and this through here is the new extension this is early 15th century but just watch
51:56your head it's a little bit very low going through here okay i'm getting a bit claustrophobic in here
52:06so i'm gonna i'm coming with you
52:12you okay yeah it's just a bit too claustrophobic for me i know i don't understand why somebody who has
52:20all the money in the world to live here owns half of northumberland yeah and then comes here would you
52:27live here as a hermit not in that cave would you no would you live as a hermit depends on
52:33the location
52:33if you're somewhere abroad nice weather absolutely so this room here you can see through those
52:41fenestrations into the main chapel where you're separated from the main congregation and it's been
52:46suggested that this room was so that lepers could worship oh do they have lepers in northumberland
52:53apparently didn't know that the hermitage fell into disuse in the late 1500s after the reformation
53:01when henry viii closed the monasteries and banned this way of life this is not how i imagine hermitage
53:08this had like multiple rooms beautiful carvings so yeah it's essentially a spiritual man cave
53:16i mean come on it's pretty cool right
53:24leaving the hermitage behind the pilgrims continue on saint oswald's way
53:29as it turns onto the coastal path and heads north i like walking do you yeah i do bloody love
53:35it
53:36there's a castle so many castles oh look at that it's dunstan bra you can't swing a cat without
53:42hitting a castle or india there's so much poop sorry i'm trying to avoid it all which is lots of
53:50it
53:51do you know what is just being in this landscape yeah yeah this outlives all of it oh yeah this
53:58is
53:59and it will outlive every single religion in the world because you think about you know
54:04these religions they're not that awared no jesus was only you know 2025 years ago yeah they were
54:10pagans before that yeah you're right back there blaker that castle won't be here anymore but this
54:15will be the dolphins and the land the sky will be beyond all of it
54:23do you think ultimately that is it yes an eternity an eternal life force yeah
54:31look at i don't mind living in that wow
54:36it's pretty special right this is special yeah
54:40team selfie okay okay team three two one oh it's a really really nice one guys huge
54:48huge i can't believe you've not been here before i know i can't believe it but it's like christianity
54:53isn't it you grow up with it you're instilled with it within your culture really aren't you
54:57you very rarely get a chance to question it or actually even read the bible have you read the
55:02bible for example years ago have you yeah i haven't yeah had a children's bible had the good news bible
55:10the good news yeah going straight down there the beach looks lovely
55:21it's nice to be on a beach this is just peaceful peaceful white sand i keep seeing things kind of
55:30pop
55:30up in the sea and thinking it's the dolphin wishful thinking i think never know oh yeah wow that's close
55:38i thought i saw a dolphin i was right there that is one of the biggest dolphins i've ever seen
55:45this
55:45is craziness it's so exciting three
55:55one more there i've never seen dolphins like that i'm gonna see ever because we're human we forget that
56:01you know that we're part of that we just like work and we get so caught up in that and
56:08then you see
56:08that and you just like all of that is rubbish
56:16pretty special that is isn't it twice we've seen dolphins that's magic i want to get in i want to
56:24go
56:24swim with them come on pat let's get in it's been a real blessed day i think it really has
56:37we are of
56:39differing faiths but yeah we can respect and love one another as human beings right we're in a country
56:45that is predominantly christian faith right so did you always feel included marginalized you know for your
56:54faith or even your heritage where i was in school i was the only arab i was only muslim i
56:59was about
57:00seven when 9 11 happened and i remember really distinctly the day after 9 11 a kid in my class
57:07saying to the teacher oh miss what why did they hit the planes and cured those people and the teacher
57:14went i don't know ask hassan and as a seven-year-old as a seven-year-old yeah so you
57:23really feel a sense
57:24of otherness absolutely and being british is just who i am that really confusing go back to where
57:29you came from it's like well what do you mean yeah i i'm i'm from here i remember once at
57:38school
57:38someone said to me uh so where are you from then and i was like oh my family are iraqi
57:43and she went
57:44mate no offense do you ever just think that maybe you should just go back to pakistan
57:53what am i going to do in pakistan sister some cricket
57:58well what can you do father make a joke about that honestly i've got no idea bro
58:04anyway next pilgrimage in lahore brother let's go next time next time god i hope it's not too uphill
58:19the group faced their biggest challenge yet jesus still growing up hermione has a revelation when
58:26spirituality became organized religion with that came sort of the patriarchy it's so good to talk
58:34like this isn't it it's great i am freezing and the pilgrims channel cuthbert brother it's horrendous
58:48step into the story of pilgrimage from ancient paths to virtual experiences with the open university's
58:54interactive journey through time scan the qr code or visit connect.open.ac.uk slash pilgrimage
59:25so
59:29you
59:30you
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