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Transcript
00:03I've been lucky enough to travel the world playing music but there's one
00:10place that's calling me back I mean just look at this it's perfect
00:18the glorious west coast of Ireland on the edge of the wild Atlantic Ocean
00:25so my holidays were here in these magical places I haven't been back in a long time
00:31it's 40 years since I've been out on this lake and after the tragic death of my
00:36oldest brother Kieran that was proud of you he was so proud of you I want to
00:43discover what made this place so special for him I'll be reconnecting with old
00:52friends we were like West life what yeah better than boys singing some songs and
01:01getting involved with the unique Irish culture I was 16 when I left Ireland
01:11there's so much of the Atlantic coast I hadn't seen now I'm coming home
01:27my next destination is just across the border from Donegal in Northern Ireland
01:34famous for its 17th century walls Derry is the only fully remaining wall city on the island of Ireland
01:42last time I was here I was probably 12 years of age I came up with my brother Kieran
01:49I remember crossing the border police checks at the border
01:58right in the heart of the troubles
02:01I'm pretty sure he didn't tell me mum and dad we came up we had a great night
02:05it's good to be back in Derry
02:08while I'm here I'll be heading beyond the walls to learn the art of sheep herding
02:14away away away there he goes I did it not bad and taking to the water in a traditional Irish
02:22Couric am I moving I don't even know absolutely moving here's me still the way you go but before
02:29I head out into the countryside I want to see a bit of the city
02:36for nearly 30 years this place was at the epicenter of some of the worst violence during the period known
02:42as the Troubles
02:43but thankfully this is now consigned to the history books
02:48more recently it's become synonymous with the Irish gift for storytelling and humour
02:54Derry Girls has been a huge hit around the world we binged it in our house
03:01Diona Doherty comedian podcaster actress and writer is a real Derry girl who has offered to show me around
03:09hello Diona how are you good to see you great to see you
03:12welcome welcome to Derry
03:14it's incredible I've never seen the city from here before and on a day like this it's magic
03:18what you'll find about being on the Derry walls is I think no matter what part of the walls you're
03:22on
03:22you'll have a great view of different parts of the city so it's a great spot to take it all
03:27in
03:30have you been today before yeah I came here with boys on we did a show up here in Derry
03:34back in the 90s
03:35you did yeah I think I was like seven when you said that
03:38stop the killing me I mean you would have been like 12
03:41yeah thanks
03:45Diona is one of a number of young comedians who are credited with Northern Ireland's stand-up resurgence in recent
03:51years
03:52my four-year-old daughter goes to me recently mommy what did yous do for fun when yous were growing
03:57up
03:57I says well we play proper games in a place called outside
04:04actually what happened is I did a maid of honor speech at a friend's wedding
04:07very good
04:07and my husband who's a comedian that I met at the Edinburgh Fringe was like that was stand-up
04:11you wrote jokes people laughed and I was like maybe I should try that again
04:14no way it literally happened like that honestly I think once you get bit by the stand-up bug it's
04:18very hard to leave no matter how badly it's going you feel like you you just have to
04:22you're like maybe I could do a better one next time
04:29so when I was growing up obviously big big big boys own fan
04:34and my dad used to tell me when songs came on the radio that were popular songs that he'd written
04:40them
04:42and I used to go into school and be like um yeah my dad wrote that one so I swear
04:47to god and I
04:48used to tell people all the time and they were like why aren't you really rich and I was like
04:51we're humble and I used to I believed it for years I love this I know the one come on
04:57he'd be like
04:57that's another one of mine I love your dad I can totally see where you get your humor from now
05:04look who it is oh there they are yeah teenage kicks yeah what an iconic picture
05:09Derry has produced some cracking musical artists over the year do you know where the patron saint of Derry is
05:15who they didn't quite
05:24Derry's peace bridge was opened in 2011 connecting two historically divided communities on different
05:31sides of the river it's a stunning piece of architecture
05:35this is the peace bridge peace bridge yeah yeah it's lovely isn't it that's gorgeous and it's all
05:40lit up at night time which is nice and no tour of the walls would be complete without stopping to
05:45pay tribute to the legendary show that Diona was part of I mean would you look at that there's the
05:53gals yeah it's amazing what Derry girls has done not just for Derry but also for female comedy here in
06:00Ireland yeah I think it's something that was quite on underrated and unnoticed beforehand like Lacey
06:05McGee created something that was so relatable around the world but it didn't matter that it was you
06:11know and Derry or young girls it was such a relatable topic and so funny like it's one of the
06:16funniest
06:16shows ever oh it's so brilliant what episode were you in again so I'm the wee Ukrainian yeah I don't
06:21even
06:21think anyone calls me the wee Ukrainian I just made myself way yes who is this oh that's just James
06:27you are
06:28handsome and also sexy Derry girls has made regional accents more accessible for everyone around the
06:35world because you know when I was growing up we watched mostly American TV shows yeah English TV
06:40shows even my kids watch those mostly and they all play with their toys and like American accents but
06:44Derry girls is a big hit in America and I just hope that there's wee kids out there playing with
06:49their toys
06:50in Derry accents absolutely you know it the dream before I say goodbye to Diona there's one thing I
06:56have to do do you mind recording a wee quick video for my dad I would be honored I mean
07:01I've got to say
07:02thanks here we go you ready yeah hey D Ronan here I just want to say a massive thank you
07:06for all the
07:06songs you wrote for Boyzone you changed my life amazing yeah you really appreciate it don't you I
07:10I really appreciate it Dave I had no idea you wrote them but thank you nothing without you daddy
07:19Derry has been transformed in recent years and whilst no one is forgetting the troubled history of this
07:24place it's nothing like the city I visited back in the early 90s the former British army barracks are
07:33now beautiful public spaces with hotels and businesses and walking along the foil river on a summer's day
07:40you could be forgiven for thinking you're somewhere in continental Europe
07:46there's a joke here that Derry is Monaco without the money there's that local humor again
07:55and that night I spent with my older brother Ciarán when I sneaked into a nightclub with him
07:59despite being underage is a memory I had mostly forgotten until I came back here and it's what this
08:06trip is all about since his death I cherish those memories more than ever
08:19even though I grew up in Dublin I loved getting out into the countryside my granny and granddad James
08:26and Annie Keating had a farm near the border and visiting them was always an experience
08:33livestock farming is still the biggest and most important rural industry here it's estimated that
08:39there are nearly as many sheep on the island of Ireland as there are people
08:4520 miles from the city but still in County Derry Benone Beach is where Shannon Conn puts her loyal
08:51sheepdogs through their paces at the grand old age of 23 she's got 13 years experience of competitive
09:07herding this is chip this is chip lovely chip six years old okay and then we have a son in
09:15here bandit he's two years old
09:17and it
09:20we're in the beautiful this is gorgeous this strand I mean one of the longest beaches in Ireland what's that
09:28temple at at the end so that's Muslim temple okay and very famous around here a lot of people actually
09:33get engaged all right lovely they've made a lot of films and TV stuff and
09:40I mean it is a remarkable setting but we're not here just to take in the spectacular views there's work
09:49to be done sheepdogs no sheep we're on the beach what are we doing so this is our fitness training
09:55how much
09:56fitness does a sheepdog need so these dogs are competing so they get competing from everything
10:01from 10 minutes to half an hour running constant running constant running how fast do they go
10:06so on here and we're just running straight he should go 20 25 miles per hour yeah that's pretty quick
10:12yeah pretty quick we did used to have a dog done 32 wow you could run them at a greyhound
10:17tracker that's
10:17yeah that's fast very fast very fast
10:25Shannon was just 13 when she won BBC's one man and his dog competing against the best in the UK
10:33all right then let's go oh bless him off he goes
10:38off he goes oh look he's looking for a command
10:41oh he's waiting he's very well behaved right so why is he waiting he's waiting to follow you
10:47yeah yeah ship he's older so he's like you know what I know what I'm doing
10:50where I go and then found out wait for me
10:53experience experience and experience yeah inexperience okay all right then let's jump in
11:05okay off we go put it in gear might be a good sir yeah that's always a good idea
11:14so how long have you been doing this I learned I got him yeah okay good
11:24here he comes here he comes sprinting he's going the wrong direction hey chip come here mate
11:32you've been lucky to be listening to me no I don't think he will chip come on
11:42so you have a working farm you have sheep you use the dogs yeah but then on the weekends you've
11:48trained dogs to to compete yes so there could be 50 50 other people competing that day okay and you're
11:54trying to get in the top six say a competition it's speed agility or you know the way that they
12:01listen to you it's the way that you're listening to the most important so right and their ability on
12:07sheep Shannon was the youngest sheep herder in the UK's top 15 rankings and Ireland's first woman
12:14to compete in the International Supreme Championships and you don't get to that level without having
12:20extremely fit dogs so after a leisurely drive along the beach it's time to turn around and encourage a
12:28sprint back to the start wow they're fast he's catching chip and they're well ahead of us
12:54and after that intense workout it's time to cool off in the Atlantic okay well here you go I'll let
13:01you go
13:04good boy they love the attention from you they love attention yeah yeah you can see how fit chip is
13:10he's not even panting after that huge run banded on the other hand yeah they're such good boys it's
13:19so good it's like an ice bath for them right you know good for their joints and muscles after a
13:25long
13:25run proper athletes huh they are proper athletes yeah Shannon's farm is only a few minutes drive from
13:34the beach and she's promised to show me the art of sheep herding I think we'll go with chip first
13:45he
13:45won the beach run yeah he did he deserves it yeah well what will he do he'll go get them
13:49and bring them
13:49over to us well hopefully that is the plan yeah so chip will go out gather them up he'll listen
13:56hopefully to me on the way down bring them round round our feet and he's going to drive them away
14:01simple
14:07wow look at this he's ready sheep are over there he's there he won't move he'll not move no not
14:12until
14:12I send him we better release him you can't do this to him well there's one thing we need first
14:18what's that you can't handle a dog without a crook this is a crook yeah so that's my father's crook
14:26Lachlan Conn he'll be privileged to let you oh I'm privileged to hold it this is very cool
14:30I feel like David Beckham don't look like him but I feel like him I wasn't going to say anything
14:37thanks very much
14:41okay release him come back wow that is incredible yeah he knows exactly where he's going and he is
14:50just down the line of the fence like you know he could have gone as the crow flies so he's
14:54going to
14:54keep it nice and wide so he's not going to disturb the sheep so the sheep should come quite calmly
14:59they should spot him nice okay now the sheep are moving already so we're going to use the whistle
15:04so close your ears if I wish you all right go on then when he gets around to the back
15:08of them like
15:08uh two o'clock yeah oh that's impressive that's incredible there's a certain amount of blows there
15:18you're going that's his come by yeah so that's the left and we're going to go right here now
15:24and there's different tones
15:27all different tones that's the stops the harsh one yeah so I'm going to tell him to slow down because
15:32he's going a wee bit too fast with the sheep see the half one oh and he's just slowed down
15:38that's
15:39incredible it's like a remote control dog wow it's something special to watch it really is it's so
15:45impressive
15:49I've just watched the master at work and now it's my turn to have a go oh this is Bud
15:56hello Bud how you doing this is Bud he's two years old he's a feisty one and he's red
16:02the color red he's a beautiful which is very unique for dogs oh he's gorgeous
16:10so one thing you need obviously if you're going to work a dog you need a whistle okay
16:15so I brought you a wee present no way get me on whistle I love it thank you I got
16:21you green for
16:22Ireland oh you're very kind whistle I've got a stick I've got a dog
16:30will I try it uh-huh no
16:37we might have to do voice commands put it in your mouth you put your tongue down at the hole
16:42at the
16:42bottom yeah very good I think I may be calling some nearby birds so for Bud's sake I'll stick to
16:52the
16:52voice commands so the dog's right paw yeah is away away no the dog's right paw so when that dog's
17:01facing
17:01singing you you have to remember it's the dog's right paw he's away okay dog's left paw come by
17:07away come by away come by now to stop is stand yeah to walk on is walk on walk on
17:15you tell him to stand stand stand stand stand whenever you're ready stand away away
17:26away there he goes I did it not bad
17:32now the dog's natural things to bring them down anyway okay so he's just going to start bringing
17:36them down yeah he's going to help himself
17:49away away no way I cannot wait yeah I think it's my accent he likes oh yeah yeah yeah no
17:55I get it
17:56no I was I've been too aggressive stand stand stand away yeah he's going on right he's listening
18:05stand stand he's a good listener he's very good I'm impressed he sets you very well he does
18:18that'll do good boy knee pad him yeah good boy super job Bud good boy great job
18:26well done
18:33being out along this stunning coastline brings back so many memories of summer holidays as a kid
18:40me and my brothers love to mess about on boats whenever we got the chance
18:44we even caught a fish or two that's why i'm so excited to come visit john wilkinson
18:50who's a traditional wooden boat builder
18:54john how are you running on very well how are you very good thanks for having me it's a pleasure
19:00what are you up to right there we're in the process of steaming some ribs to make a coracle
19:04so the coracles are these the wee boats outside there oh yeah they're used all over the world
19:09so in wales they call them coracles and they're a little bit smaller in ireland they're a bit bigger
19:14okay and they're called a boyne currer the vietnamese use them the indians use them all
19:17same thing but just slightly different materials and things one currer gaelic for
19:23riverboat well a riverboat yeah yeah so boyne river
19:25currer skin boat john moved from brisbane australia to ireland's north coast in the 1990s
19:32for a different way of life why did you choose ireland uh when i first came here it was because
19:38i was interested in the history but the uh the closeness of everything you think in australia it's
19:43you know it's hours and hours of trek to get anywhere yeah two hours you're in the morns two
19:47hours you're in donegal yeah fantastic coastline all along there and the other one is the people
19:52i just find people in the whole way across ireland is just fantastic
20:00building boats here in this little corner of the world has been john's passion
20:04and it's really paid off with clients ranging from the national trust to big tv productions
20:11and you don't just build boats for yourself and for people that come along we've seen your boats in
20:16some interesting famous places absolutely so my most famous one is the game of thrones
20:21canoe that um brienne of tars throws jamie lannister in i remember that episode excellent it was a big
20:28deal that's your boat it was my boat even just being in the workshop is inspiring i can't wait to
20:35get hands-on to build a traditional couric starting with the steamed hazel wood so basically it comes out
20:43yeah pointy end yeah is going down there until you touch the wood and then very very gently
20:50wow that is genius how it bends
20:55okay so i'll show you another one same thing the crux is to make sure that the spike stays right
21:00down low
21:02and she bends over and if you put your hand here as it's bending you're bending more safely okay so
21:08what i'll do now is i'll go around the far side of the form yeah and from here i'll stay
21:13there and
21:14i'll give it a go keep doing the others so the history of these boats obviously goes back thousands
21:20of years it does beyond record basically because they're natural materials it's actually really
21:25hard to know how long they have been around so you think if you make a boat out of skin
21:29and and
21:30wood and sinew yeah and you leave it out in the weather for about two years it's gone yeah so
21:34we
21:35know people were on the water but we don't really know what they were using pointy bit down looks
21:41good okay nice steady bend that's the way and slide her under there there we go that was a success
21:49good one this feels that's going to break i can tell you now there we go you can feel it
21:56it's
21:56totally different to the other so that's that's one of the real cruxes to learning how to do it
22:00is you've got to feel as soon as you feel you know trying to force stuff if you're thinking through
22:03your hands you actually avoid lots of trouble hey i like to think through my hands after the wooden
22:10rods are bent into shape they can be taken outside for the next stage in the process
22:16a beautiful day to build a boat it is absolutely fantastic
22:21the nice thing about the coracle is that they're um they're called the uh the people's boat right
22:27anybody can make this if you get if you've got access to willow and hazel and canvas you can build
22:33a
22:35coracle so the lashing we use here uses two different types of knot so the first thing you
22:40do is you put in what's called a stopper knot it's just basically twist over the top like that
22:46and through the middle so it's the first knot any kid ever learns really simple i remember that one
22:50yeah good man probably helps with your shoelaces yeah and all we do there is we go underneath the
22:56lashing we go around this bit which is called the dead end and then we do exactly the same knot
23:02so
23:03it's just that overhand you do to do your laces up and then we pull the whole lot tight and
23:09what that
23:09does is it anchors our lash so we go over here yeah under there over there under there over here
23:18which
23:19takes us back takes us back to the start and then we pull that tight and the whole thing just
23:24slides
23:24on itself that's a thing of beauty that is wow it is really tight yeah that's incredible i was a
23:31boy scout
23:32so i should be able to handle this okay so we go across yep over under
23:47over under and then over and under yeah that's it and then hold it tight
23:57do you want to take on an apprenticeship you know what i would love nothing more
24:02come up here and build boats with you lovely that would be the dream the simplicity of that
24:07i mean it's the engineering it's so satisfying to make a complete boat from scratch would take
24:12about a week but john has some older models that are already seaworthy so ronan do you think you'd
24:19be happy paddling one of these uh yeah i'll give it a go good yeah excellent nice calm water yep
24:24it'll
24:24be calm the tides uh ebbing at the moment so it's as low as it can be beautiful and flat
24:28low suits me
24:29no wind let's give it a go good job okay just pick them up absolutely off we get
24:35need a paddle though right we will there's a couple in the van okay
24:39hey this estuary where the river ban meets the atlantic ocean is the perfect spot to launch from
24:46i see water water absolutely so this bit up here is a bird sanctuary okay beautiful and uh
24:53lovely calm water generally fantastic calm is a good thing calm always good
25:01have you ever canoodle kite before uh i have i've kayaked kayaked but not canoeed no okay did you
25:07ever do the draw stroke in a kayak definitely not definitely not okay i just did you know the standard
25:13standard stroke so you think if you did that in a canoe in a coracle i should say you'd be
25:16paddling
25:17out here and what would the boat do circle yeah you'd just be the faster you went the faster you'd
25:22go
25:22until you make sense fell in here okay so the stroke that we got to use is designed to either
25:28pull or push the boat okay okay so effectively it's called it's either called a figure of eight
25:34or a sculling draw and figure of eight because it's a figure of eight yeah so we have our blade
25:39angled like that yeah push it this way when we get to the end of it we cock it the
25:44other way and bring
25:45it back that way and that's it that's the whole that's it you say that's it any other stroke yeah
25:50and
25:50you'll be doing the wrong thing so if you can do that you're right all right then let's launch
25:54these babies yeah here goes nothing okay in you go that's it knees down center of gravity back a
26:11bit and you're paddling out to your right hand side there am i moving i don't even know absolutely
26:17moving here's me still away you go looking good and the current's taking you down a bit yeah keep
26:24going as you is and you'll end up for sure just over here i hope goodbye john keep the paddle
26:30out
26:32i'll see you in new york you want some set of arms on you excellent job to keep this going
26:40these traditional boats in use for thousands of years were primarily used for fishing
26:45close along the coastline of ireland from where we are now we might have launched 20 meters downstream
26:52yeah we paddle out 10 or 15 meters and as we go we spill our net out yeah and then
26:58we head upstream
26:59with the net dropping behind us and then we head back to the shore and that means we can uh
27:04pull the net
27:05in and every fish that's in that that's yours is yours yeah impressive
27:10so they're they're beautiful because they're so nimble you can literally go they're so nimble it's
27:15nifty no frontal back no sides
27:19i got this you have next career
27:28i mean everything going on in the world it's just it's so peaceful so calming just being out here on
27:33the
27:33river absolutely absolutely you know in this in this boat made from all these natural materials
27:39that are of the land absolutely this magical country of mine it never disappoints
27:46it's so beautiful
27:53i can't believe it's been 35 years since i was in dairy the incredible people that i've met on this
27:59trip and the stories the warmth the connection it's really deepened my love for ireland
28:08it's such a brilliant country and i understand it so much more now i'm going to make sure i spend
28:15far
28:16more time here in the future
28:17more time here in the future
28:53more time here in the future
28:53like this
28:54here
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