00:00Hello everyone and welcome back to my channel. In this video I'm going to show you how to set up
00:05a
00:06gravity water tank. Now that the world is getting a little crazy, escaping the madness and becoming
00:12more self-sufficient is more important than ever. With this setup you won't need electricity to
00:17keep your water flowing. All you need is a pump, a raised tank, and stored water like rainwater or
00:24water from a pond. You can use this system to supply water to your cabin or for irrigation.
00:29If you're looking for tips on how to live off-grid, don't forget to hit that subscribe button.
00:34Before we install the tank, I'll quickly show you how to build a wooden tank stand.
00:40Depending on what you're using it for, it's best for the stand to be high enough to generate enough
00:45water pressure. The higher the tank, the greater the pressure. In our case, the stand will be 4 meters
00:51high, which is perfect for both household supply and irrigation. For this, you'll need pressure-treated
00:57timber for durability, 4x4s for the poles and 6x2s for the top plates and reinforcement.
01:03We'll also use 4-inch and 2-inch screw nails, a spirit level, and a drill. Each pole will be
01:09spaced
01:095 feet apart and will be 5 meters long, allowing for 1 meter to go into the ground.
01:16Start by digging holes that are 60 centimeters by 60 centimeters and 1 meter deep. Set the poles in
01:26place and pour in the concrete. Be sure to lift each pole slightly so the concrete surrounds it fully.
01:37Use a spirit level to ensure the poles are perfectly upright. Let the concrete cure for 2-3 days depending
01:45on weather conditions. Once it's set, add cross-lap joints on all sides for support.
02:18Use a spirit level to ensure the poles of the poles of the poles of the poles of the poles
02:20of the poles.
02:29Use a spirit level to ensure the poles of the poles of the poles of the poles of the poles
02:29of the poles.
02:29And finish with the top plates. This is where the tank will sit.
02:49The next step is to install our water tank. A water tank typically has three key pipe connections
02:55or openings. An inlet where water enters the tank from the pump. An outlet where water leaves the
03:02tank for use. For example, taps, toilets, or irrigation. And finally, an overflow which is a safety feature
03:10to handle excess water. It's important to understand the pipe sizes you want to use, to avoid buying
03:16components that don't fit. In most cases, you'll work with 1 inch, 3 quarters inch, or half an inch pipes.
03:23For this job, we'll be using 3 quarters inch pipe. So here's what we need.
03:273 3 quarters inch tank outlets. 1 3 quarters inch gate valve. 3 quarters inch connectors. And 3
03:39quarters inch pipe. Notice that we're using 3 quarters inch consistently across all components.
03:46This avoids misfits and ensures everything connects properly. We'll also need a drill with a hole saw,
03:54a plumbing wrench, and some Teflon tape. Let's begin with the outlet. Start by drilling a hole in the tank,
04:10leaving a few inches from the base. Insert the tank outlet.
04:26Tighten firmly with a plumbing wrench. Before connecting the gate valve, wrap Teflon tape around
04:33the threads of the outlet. About three rolls will do just fine. So when you are applying Teflon tape,
04:39you always want to apply it clockwise to the direction that is facing you. This prevents the
04:44tape from getting messed while screwing and later ruining the seal.
04:51Then screw on the gate valve. This is the part that turns your water supply on and off.
04:57Next, add the connector. This connects the gate valve to the pipe. There are different types depending on
05:03the kind of pipe you're using. For example, here's a PX pipe connector. One side is a male NPT,
05:10and the other is a PX adapter.
05:31If you're using a PX pipe, you'll need a crimp ring. Make sure it's in the right position.
05:42Then use a crimp tool to compress the ring.
05:52Alternatively, you can use a push-to-connect fitting, which we will use throughout.
05:58It's simple, long-lasting, and works with multiple pipe types including PEX, CPVC, copper, and HDPE.
06:07Just make sure to push the pipe all the way in for a secure fit.
06:13Next, we'll install the inlet. Drill a hole at the top of the tank.
06:23Insert the tank outlet.
06:41Then wrap it with Teflon tape.
06:54Then add the elbow connector. One side has a male NPT that connects to the outlet,
07:00and the other side is the push to connect where we add the pipe.
07:04Now for the overflow. Choose the level where you want your tank to stop filling,
07:09and drill a hole at that height.
07:17Insert a tank outlet.
07:34Wrap it with Teflon tape.
07:48Then screw on the elbow and connect the overflow pipe.
07:55This pipe can be directed back to your stored water or straight to the garden in case of overflow.
08:00You might be wondering, how much does this all cost?
08:04Let's break it down.
08:06For the tank stand, a 16-foot pressure treated 4 by 4 post costs around $29 to $40.
08:13We'll estimate $40 each, so 4 posts cost $160.
08:18The rest of the structure uses 2 by 6 lumber, each piece 12 feet long.
08:23We'll need 15 pieces. At around $30 each, that's $450.
08:294-inch screws will cost about $26 for a box of $250, and 2-inch screws will cost around $15
08:37for a box of $300.
08:39Total cost for the tank stand, $651.
08:43And for the tank installation, a 1,000-liter tank costs approximately $200.
08:50Brass tank outlets are about $10 each, so for $3, that's $30.
08:55A gate valve costs around $17.
08:58A push-to-connect fitting will cost $9.
09:01Elbow connectors are about $13 each.
09:04We need two, so that's $26.
09:07A roll of Teflon tape costs about $2.
09:10The cost of pipes depends on the type you choose and the length of your waterline.
09:14So the overall total, including the stand, comes down to $935.
09:19Way cheaper than an electrified system that requires professional installation.
09:24Thank you for watching all the way to the end.
09:27Maximum respect.
09:29Take care.
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