00:00Hello everyone and welcome back to my channel. In today's video, we're going to explore how to
00:05design a solar power system capable of running a fridge, an LED TV, six LED bulbs, one in the
00:13bedroom, one in the kitchen, one in the sitting area, one in the bathroom and two outside.
00:21We'll dive into the energy consumption, the sizing of solar panels, batteries,
00:26charge controller and inverter, and give you a comprehensive guide to help you set up your own
00:31system. Please note that in this video we are going to be using terms like watts and kilowatts.
00:37One kilowatt is equal to 1000 watts. For example, a 24 volts 100 AH lithium ion battery equals to
00:452400 watt hours or 2.4 kilowatt hours. Let's start with understanding the energy requirements.
00:52A typical refrigerator, especially an energy efficient model of 60 watts,
00:57consumes around 0.48 kilowatt hours per day or 480 watt hours. This is less than expected because
01:04the fridge compressor does not run for 24 hours. It runs for around 8 hours a day so 8 times
01:1160 watts
01:11is 480 watts. The six LED bulbs, each at about 10 watts, will total around 60 watts. If we assume
01:21they run for 10 hours, that's about 0.6 kilowatt hours per day or 600 watt hours. The TV, assuming
01:28it's an LED model using roughly 100 watts and running for 5 hours, would consume about 0.5 kilowatt
01:35hours per day or 500 watt hours. Adding these up, we get a total daily consumption of 1.58 kilowatt
01:42hours or 1580 watt hours. Now let's talk about solar panels. For this setup, I would recommend a 24 volt
01:50system for a balanced and efficient rig. The amount of energy a panel can produce depends on your
01:56geographic location and the number of peak sunlight hours per day. On average, one solar panel rated at
02:02300 watts might produce about 1.2 to 1.5 kilowatt hours per day under optimal conditions. Therefore,
02:09to meet our daily consumption of about 1.58 kilowatt hours, we'd need roughly three solar panels which
02:15totaled to 900 watts. This also accounts for inefficiencies and weather variations.
02:21Battery storage is crucial for ensuring a continuous power supply, especially during the night or cloudy
02:28days. For our daily consumption of around 1.58 kilowatt hours, we'd ideally want a battery capacity of
02:35about 5 to 6 kilowatt hours. For a 24 volt system, that's 250 AH lithium ion battery, which is equal
02:43to
02:436,000 watt hours or 6 kilowatt hours. This extra capacity helps buffer against days when the sun
02:49isn't shining as brightly. The charge controller is the device that manages the power going from the
02:55solar panels to the battery. For a system of this size, a charge controller rated at 60 amps MPPT
03:02charge controller would be suitable, and it should match the voltage of your battery, typically 24 volts.
03:07The charge controller ensures that the battery isn't overcharged or excessively discharged,
03:13which extends the battery life and improves efficiency. The inverter's role is to convert the
03:18direct current, DC, from the battery into alternating current, AC, that your appliances use. For our setup,
03:27which includes a fridge, bulbs, and a TV, a 24 volts inverter rated at around 2 kilowatts or 2,000
03:33watts
03:33would be sufficient. It's important to choose a pure sine wave inverter because it provides clean
03:38power, which is better for sensitive electronics and ensures the longevity of your appliances.
03:44Putting it all together, it's essential to ensure that each component is compatible.
03:49The solar panels should match the battery voltage, which is 24 volts, and the inverter capacity should
03:55comfortably handle the peak load. It's also wise to include a safety margin by slightly oversizing
04:01your system to accommodate any unexpected energy demands or future additions, which we have done.
04:07900-watt solar panels, 250 AH lithium-ion battery, 60 amps MPPT charge controller, and a 2,000 watts
04:15pure sine wave inverter would properly power a fridge, a TV, and 6 LED bulbs without running out.
04:22Now let's break down the total cost of this solar power system, component by component,
04:27so you can clearly understand the budget. Starting with the charge controller, we're using a Renegy 60
04:33amp, 24 volt MPPT charge controller. This controller efficiently converts solar power while protecting
04:40the battery from overcharging. The price for this unit is $339. Next is the inverter. We're using a
04:49Renegy 2000-watt 24-volt pure sine wave inverter, priced at $339. Each panel is a 300-watt solar panel,
05:00priced at $249. We are using three panels, giving us 900 watts of total solar capacity. That brings the
05:09total cost for the solar panels to $747. For energy storage, we're using a lead-time 24-volt,
05:17230-amp-hour lithium battery. This battery offers high capacity of 5,888 watt-hours or 5.8 kilowatt-hours,
05:26very close to the 6 kilowatts but in one package. Fast charging and a long lifespan.
05:33The cost of this battery is $929. Now let's include the cables and protection equipment,
05:39which are critical for safety and system reliability. From the solar panels to the charge
05:45controller, we're using 10 AWG solar PV cables that are 10 feet long, priced at $16. From the charge
05:52controller to the battery, we're using 4 AWG heavy-duty battery cables that are 4 feet long,
05:58priced at $28. The cables that connect the inverter to the battery are usually included with the inverter.
06:05On the positive battery cable going to the inverter, we must install a DC fuse for protection.
06:11For this system, a 150-amp fuse works perfectly. The fuse costs $6. When we add all these costs
06:19together, the total system cost comes to $2,404. This total gives you a complete, safe, and efficient
06:2624-volt solar system capable of running essential appliances like a fridge, lights, TV, and small
06:33electronics reliably. The Amazon links to these components are in the description box.
06:40When installing a solar power system, the order in which components are connected is very important
06:46for safety and equipment protection. The charge controller should always be connected to the
06:51battery before connecting the solar panels. This is because the charge controller needs a stable
06:56voltage reference. When it connects to the battery first, it automatically detects the correct system
07:02voltage, whether it is 12 volts, 24 volts, or 48 volts. If solar panels are connected before the
07:09battery, the controller may power up using panel voltage. This can confuse the controller or permanently
07:15damage it. Many charge controllers fail simply because the panels were connected first. The battery also
07:22acts as a stabilizer. It provides clean, steady power that allows the charge controller to operate
07:28correctly. Once the controller is connected to the battery and powered on, it is then safe to connect
07:34the solar panels. It is also completely fine to connect the inverter to the battery at the same time as
07:40the
07:40charge controller. Both devices are designed to be connected directly to the battery bank. This is standard
07:47practice in most solar installations. However, the inverter should remain switched off during installation.
07:53Always use the correct cable size and install a fuse or circuit breaker between the battery and the
07:59inverter to protect the system. After the battery, charge controller, and inverter are securely connected
08:06and checked. You can then connect the solar panels. Finally, turn on the inverter and test the system.
08:12Following this simple connection order protects your equipment, improves reliability, and ensures a safe solar
08:19installation. Check out a detailed video on how to put them together in the description. And that wraps up
08:26our comprehensive guide to setting up a solar power system for your home. We hope you found this detailed
08:32walkthrough helpful. If you have any questions or want more tips, don't forget to like, subscribe,
08:37and leave a comment below. Thanks a lot. Take care.
