00:00All the girlies were using like dark orange to color correct, no matter their skin.
00:05Hi, I'm Cara Gillian Brown and I am here with celebrity makeup artist Mary Phillips to show us
00:11the power of makeup using her famous underpainting technique. I am going to start with color
00:16corrector and that is the first shade in the underpainting palette and you always want to
00:19place it like right where you get a little bit of darkness. You always want it to be like kind
00:24of in the peachy tones. If you get grayish blue tones kind of purpley it like cancels all those
00:29colors out. I remember like when color correcting first kind of hit the scene like mainstream.
00:36All the girlies were using like dark orange to color correct no matter their skin tone.
00:41Yeah, everybody was using like that big dark burnt orange color.
00:44Yeah, that like MAC Studio Fix fluid.
00:47I'm going to start now with contour one. I always like to contour before I highlight.
00:51Why?
00:51Some people I know do the highlight first but I like to see the contour first. I think because
00:55it's like building the structure and then like highlights kind of like adding good light.
00:59How did you like get into becoming a makeup artist?
01:01Any sort of art I loved. I remember watching my mom do her makeup. Just like how it kind of
01:06shifted
01:07her energy and I remember just my friends coming over from like a super young age and I would steal
01:11my mom's makeup and do their makeup. It was terrible and it just kind of was something I did throughout
01:16like high school and junior high and I still had no idea it was a job. I just loved it.
01:20So I feel like I was the same way growing up. I loved stealing my mom's makeup and like playing
01:24with it.
01:24Yeah. But then I remember hitting a point where like my makeup skills surpassed my mother's makeup
01:29skills. Do you like have that memory? I feel like from super early on I surpassed my mom's
01:34makeup skills. She didn't have much. I remember she was like one it was like a long comb brown
01:38pencil and she kind of would do like little dots or like dashes across her eye and then she would
01:42take like her finger and or even like a q-tip and like smudge it and she was like a
01:46toothbrush for
01:47her eyebrows like a dry toothbrush. So did you start doing your mom's makeup?
01:50Yeah like it became like if she was like going on a date with my dad or like had like
01:55an important
01:56like something I like started doing her makeup. Is that how you got into this?
02:00Kinda and like the YouTube of it all like I'm kind of loving this 2016 resurgence. I have a memory
02:06of
02:06like forcing my mom to take me to the mat counter in 2016 and being like I need this foundation
02:12you
02:12don't understand. I need the naked palette. I still have my first one. I can't bring myself to get rid
02:19of
02:19it but like I would absolutely not like it's probably like a biohazard at this point.
02:23I'm gonna actually take a little bit of the deeper shade and just kind of go real close to like
02:29the
02:29perimeter of the face just kind of deepen what I've already done. How do you make sure there's still
02:33enough pigment there that you can go over it and have your work be visible? You can make it all
02:38a
02:39little bit stronger than how you want it to look because once I put the foundation over it's gonna
02:43blend it all in. I always like to kind of take contour one and just go a little bit across
02:47the
02:48eye. What was your like aha moment once you kind of figured out that this could be a job? My
02:53dad
02:53had like a sister-in-law she was like Billy Bob Thornton's makeup artist and I was like huh I
02:59didn't
02:59really think of that when I was like watching movies there was no tutorials anywhere it was like
03:04in magazines if like Pat McGrath was doing an article or Kevin Aucoin his books were really what showed
03:10me like oh my gosh like there's so much that goes underneath all of this. Yeah. And that was the
03:15first time I had seen this technique used. I mean there's a lot of little lines I don't know if
03:19you
03:19remember those books or if you've seen them. I have the book. So I'm now taking highlight one
03:24and it's fun I make like a little tree. I'm just taking the highlight now and going right over
03:28where I color corrected. This technique can be a little like whoa people see like all the stripes on
03:33the face and they're like that seems too complicated and it's really not. If it feels too intimidating
03:38for you just start with one feature. And now I'm taking the contour too. This one's more closer to
03:43your skin tone. And now I'm going to go in with the foundation. This is my new foundation. This is
03:48my skin weightless serum foundation medium to buildable coverage. I wanted it like that because
03:54I still want the underpainting to shine through. Looks like skin. Reflects light like skin. It feels
03:59super light. Feels super weightless. And I've always applied foundation with a fluffy brush so I'm just
04:03getting it nice and worked into the bristles. Yeah because I feel like foundation brushes are always
04:07so dense. And this it just kind of gives you like a really pretty like airbrushed finish. I love a
04:13foundation like this because I don't want it to dry down because sometimes I want to do more
04:20underpainting like right now. So I can go back in and do a little bit more now. And since like
04:242016
04:25it was all like about like beating the face to the gods. What do you feel like the like signature
04:31for 2026 is?
04:32Like this like it's it's sculpted but it's undetectable. Kind of you know what I mean?
04:37It's like it's there but I think everybody wants it to look effortless. And like the skin has that like
04:42dew and that shine to it. The structure is there. The like rosiness of the cheeks is there. But everything
04:48like looks really hydrated. Looks really fresh. In 2016 it was like you spent a long time on your makeup.
04:55So long. Like I love a little baking. Yeah. Like under the eye. Because I feel like my concealer always
05:00like
05:01settles in. Yeah. To like find lines if I don't powder under my eye. But then like letting the
05:06perimeter of the face shine. Yeah. You know. Totally. Or like I always like a little powder like right
05:10here. Right here. Under the eye. A little bit on the center of the forehead. But I love this like
05:15the new 2016 kind of makeup. It's like has all the the beautiful color of of those beautiful eyeshadow
05:20looks from back then. But even like the way it's done is I feel more diffused now. You know what
05:26I mean?
05:26Everything's like really beautifully blended. And there was like a really hard cut crease in 2016.
05:31Oh yeah. I remember people putting like literal tape on their face. Yeah. To get the cut crease.
05:35Like it was like. And the block brows and stuff. I'm not gonna lie. I was kind of scared for
05:39my
05:39career back then. Because it was just so different than the makeup I did. Yeah. I was like oh my
05:44gosh.
05:44Am I gonna be out of a job soon? It was like YouTube makeup. It was jarring. Yeah. And like
05:49nobody on the
05:49red carpets was was doing makeup like that really. So pretty. Like how does it feel? It feels like I
05:54don't have anything on. Feels great right? Yeah. Should we put a little lip on you? I mean I love
05:58the
05:58lip ciggies. I just think they're so like do you feel like lip ciggies is like the return of party
06:03girl
06:03makeup? Like there's just something so hot about it. I hope so. I wanted something like super thin that
06:08like fit in everybody's bag. We found this like really thin component and I was just like this is so
06:13cute.
06:13It looks like a cigarette. So I'm going to use our shade bittersweet. Okay. And I'm gonna do a little
06:18over lining. I mean I feel like I've been over lining like since high school. Like it was just
06:22like a part. I was telling one of my friends the other day. I was like I could tell who
06:25you were
06:25friends with in high school by like the way you wore your makeup. So now I like to take the
06:29small side
06:29of the dual-ended underpainting brush and kind of soften the liner. I'm gonna use the lipstick. This is my
06:35favorite color. It's called Love Bites. I always love the look of like rosy kind of color your lips get
06:40after
06:41you've been like making out a lot. It's like making out drinking red wine. Yes it's like super sheer.
06:46Your skin looks so pretty. Yeah I would just like put like a little bit of powder in places
06:51and that's it. A little blush. To me like if the skin looks good then the eyes and stuff is
06:56just fun.
06:57And are you a skin first or an eye first person? Skin first. Yeah. That's why you know underpainting first
07:02we release and now foundation. It's the order I go in. And do you do the same on you as
07:07you do on your
07:07clients? Like the same order? I always start with skin first because if the skin doesn't look
07:10good I can't focus on anything else. I mean I love it. It looks so skin like and so. And
07:16it like feels
07:17nice right? It feels so good especially it's like we were talking about this earlier the feel like
07:21temperature today I think is like one. My skin does not feel like it's that. And you can use this
07:26without underpainting like you can just like put a pump in your hands put it on like moisturizer over
07:31your moisturizer and go to work like that. If people want to buy this play for themselves where can they
07:35find it? We are exclusively at Sephora or mphbeauty.com
