- 4 days ago
Libyan hip-hop, Italian restaurants, tribal allegiances and post-war uncertainty in Libya. Bourdain looks at the country through personal stories, food--and the music of anti-Qaddafi rapper expats who returned to fight.
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00:00For most of my life, Libya was a word with bad associations.
00:06Libya meant Gaddafi.
00:08Libya meant terrorism.
00:09Pan Am flight 103 went down in a blazing fireball.
00:12Libya meant a bad place where a comical, megalomaniacal dictator was the absolute power.
00:19Nobody in Libya, however, was laughing.
00:22Reports of explosions.
00:24Clashes between rioters and security forces.
00:26In 2011, what was previously unthinkable happened.
00:30The Libyan people rose up and fought for their freedom.
00:34Heavy battles raging around the Libyan capital.
00:37They fought like hell.
00:38The rebels are about to force Gaddafi's complete departure.
00:42And they recorded the whole thing on their cell phones.
00:45Libya!
00:47Libya!
00:49I took a walk through this beautiful world.
00:55I felt the cool rain on my shoulder.
01:00I was dancing here in this beautiful world.
01:06I felt the rain getting colder.
01:12It's amazing arriving here after all you see on TV these days.
01:17Libya is, in fact, functioning at all.
01:23It's amazing arriving here after all you see on TV these days that Libya is, in fact, functioning
01:42at all.
01:44But it is.
01:46The fountains across from the Corniche are operating.
01:50Traffic works.
01:51Kaido.
01:52At the Radisson, club sandwiches arrive on time in the lobby.
01:58The occasional flash of camo and a security scanner are really only discordant notes.
02:03Inside the old part of the city, men slaughter a camel while a girl records it with her iPad.
02:20No, no, no, no, no.
02:22Okay.
02:23You say no.
02:25Kids are setting off fireworks in the Medina.
02:30Incoming.
02:34Tomorrow is the prophet Muhammad's birthday.
02:37And people who have not known freedom for nearly 50 years are ready to celebrate.
02:51Martyrs Square is filled with families, kids, teenage skater boys, and hot shots on motorcycles.
03:00It's wild.
03:04And almost giddily happy.
03:09Young men in the camouflage pants of the militias, most of whom were civilians until
03:17last year, do their best to sporadically keep order or just join in the fun.
03:31Every kid above the age of five seems to have been issued a lighter and a fistful of fireworks.
03:37Ambulances idle on the margins of the square to treat fireworks-related injuries, of which
03:44there will be many.
03:46No, no, no.
03:48That was good.
03:52No, no, no, no, no.
03:58This is Tripoli after 42 years of nightmare how to build a whole society overnight and
04:23make it work in one of the most contentious and difficult areas of the
04:27world is what people are trying to figure out
04:32so before the war did you think it would ever be possible did you dream someday this will change
04:58no and that is time you cannot say a word you get killed that's it it was impossible but then i
05:08joined the group you know right the revolutionary omar is young and was even younger when the fighting
05:14started he liked so many libyans from around the country and many who had left he did the calls for
05:20revolution on facebook and twitter they fought in tripoli benghazi misrata and everywhere in between
05:28who won this war young people or everybody everybody but the young people they started them
05:35what was your daylight as a revolutionary you keep one thought in your mind you do this for the next
05:40generation for a better country for better life you have the future now before people you know what
05:47people's future libyan for get that was a regime when i guess we were slaves for the get that
05:53oh this looks good yeah
05:57barracuda is a seafood restaurant just outside of town on the mediterranean coast one of the best
06:03foods in libya i think the seafood the menu is not printed on paper it's laid out right there for you
06:09on ice we have dots here what do they do they just grill that yeah they open and grill it some garlic
06:17some sauce it's really awesome you pick out the stuff that interests you from the daily catch okay
06:23let's get one of these release some shrimps calamari too and they cook it for you the way you want
06:29oh beautiful wow that's delicious this is the stuffed calamari libyan style with so many seafood stuffed
06:45servants like a turkey good sauce
06:52wow man we are living large today yes we are bismillah bismillah
06:59so what were you doing before the war i was a travel agent you were a travel agent yes i was
07:05studying too medical school many of the people who started the revolution who fought in the streets
07:10with makeshift weapons were like omar medical students garage mechanics or simply teenagers
07:17they transformed themselves in a matter of months from kids playing playstation to hardened fighters and
07:23field medics nobody believed that he can be removed really extraordinary yeah how quickly after the
07:31uprising started did you begin to think that wow this is possible that we might actually win the
07:38first day when the prize first day yeah the day before you think it impossible we'll be stuck with
07:44this son of a bitch forever and then a few hours later it's like wow this might work
07:49seeing groups with you going to wild the mortal square demanding their rights at that moment
07:58you feel that you can do anything that this you can you can this can this is gonna happen
08:04happen if it didn't if it didn't well i've died trying doing it at least we've died like men doing it
08:20so much has changed around town so much is changing new music graffiti these things they mean something
08:40but centuries of strict social and religious values keep something solidly the same alcohol for instance
08:53is strictly forbidden men and women follow hierarchical roles as before since the revolution is a tug of war
09:01over what is acceptable outside a mosque in the medina men fill the narrow street to celebrate muhammad's birthday
09:17snacks are passed around
09:35women watch and record from the rooftops
09:39women watch and record for the earth
10:02in the upper chamber
10:06There aren't a lot of conflicts in the world where there's a clear bad guy.
10:14Clearly there was a bad guy.
10:16Exactly.
10:17I mean, the one thing about Gaddafi is he believed he was the most important human being
10:22almost that had ever existed.
10:23I mean, he changed the names of the months.
10:26He changed the date of the Islamic calendar.
10:29Such a megalomania.
10:31And as you well know, anyone outside, you mentioned the word Libya.
10:35Everyone would just say, Gaddafi.
10:37Gaddafi stole the identity of Libya.
10:41Michel Cousins is the co-founder of the English-language paper The Libya Herald
10:45and has known several different Libyas in his lifetime.
10:48For so long, the news has been the personality.
10:51Gaddafi turned up to open a shopping center.
10:54Gaddafi turned up to open an envelope.
10:56Those of us who knew Libya, who knew there was another Libya, wonderful people,
11:01we would talk about it as you talk about a dead person.
11:04Do you remember this?
11:05Do you remember that?
11:06And then in February 2011, suddenly there was resurrection.
11:12The dead came back to life.
11:15We meet at a Libyan coffee house, a traditional, male-only sort of a joint.
11:24Cafe culture is big here.
11:26A holdover from the days of Italian colonization, when Mussolini tried to rebuild Rome's long-lost empire.
11:34It's just been the most amazing experience, seeing the rebirth of a country, of a people.
11:40I mean, last night's fireworks.
11:42There was a general sense of exuberance bordering on anarchy.
11:45I mean, I felt very happy there last night, if somewhat in peril.
11:50It's Christmas.
11:52It's whatever, it's the 4th of July rolled into one.
11:55But also, there are people who are trying to stop it.
11:59Sort of Puritans, extremists, if you want to say militants.
12:02And what has happened is people have come out in defiance of that.
12:05They're showing, we want to have fun.
12:07And remember, for a long time in Libya, you couldn't have fun.
12:10The biggest misconception is that the place is turning into another Afghanistan and Iraq,
12:16where you've got bombs go off, attacks.
12:18But it's not, as you've seen.
12:20Libyans have gone through an awful time having fought for freedom.
12:25People have died.
12:26People have struggled.
12:28And that's going to hold them together.
12:40Kids are selling fireworks across from the Marcus Aurelius Arch.
12:53One is constantly reminded that Libya was once a vital part of the ancient Roman Empire.
13:00That was nearly 2,000 years ago.
13:02Tonight, I was told, was going to be an even bigger, wilder celebration in Martyrs Square.
13:12But something has happened since last night.
13:16The British Foreign Office has just told all UK citizens to leave Benghazi,
13:22Libya's second largest city, due to an unspecified threat.
13:25The Libyan government, such as it is, has denied any basis for such drastic action.
13:36A lone cherry bomb now and again, an awkward flurry of Roman candles.
13:41The buzz of last night's chaotic partying, harshed.
13:44Big time.
13:46Whether or not this is a result of the larger geopolitical situation,
13:50the vibe towards this Western film crew seems apprehensive.
13:56Uncertain.
14:07The following day feels better.
14:11Somewhat.
14:14Fresh produce is for sale on Tripoli streets.
14:19If you're a small restaurant or shopping for a big family,
14:22you bring cash, a wheelbarrow, and load up with what you need.
14:31But revolution has brought changed tastes.
14:35Libyans, especially young Libyans, hunger for more than just freedom.
14:39They hunger for places like this.
14:48Kentucky Fried Chicken.
14:50Uncle Kentucky Fried Chicken.
14:51Uncle Kentucky Fried Chicken.
14:51Okay.
14:53The Colonel and his buddies, the King and the Clown,
14:56have not quite made it here, given the uncertainty of the situation.
15:00So in the meantime, places like this have been popping up.
15:04Uncle Kentucky.
15:05Uncle Kentucky.
15:06Awesome.
15:06Have a take care.
15:11Do you know where Kentucky is?
15:15That Kentucky is from USA.
15:17The park, yeah.
15:17Yeah.
15:18This place is new?
15:20Yeah, he's new.
15:21Before the Gaddafi, he don't-
15:23Impossible.
15:23Yeah.
15:24And now, it's normal.
15:26Oh, that's nice.
15:28How you found it?
15:31Spicy delicious.
15:33Bismillah.
15:34Bismillah.
15:35Johar, like many Libyans his age, fought to overthrow Gaddafi.
15:40He was there, gun in hand, when they storm Gaddafi's palace compound.
15:44Happy?
15:45Excited?
15:46It's a good day?
15:47Yeah.
15:48He's given to me a nice feeling.
15:50Nice feeling, the Gaddafi.
15:52He's told my cousin, how you should be feeling.
15:55Exactly, I'm feeling good.
15:58Because I want to kill them.
16:00I don't want to-
16:01I don't want to say anyone die more.
16:05He's killed for nothing.
16:08The first time I think that killing people is bad.
16:11But he's-
16:12He's made me do that.
16:14Because if I don't kill him, he's killed me.
16:17Right.
16:19It's nice to see freedom.
16:20It's nice to see the bad guy gone.
16:22It's nice.
16:23I feel welcome here.
16:24Finally.
16:25We say no for him.
16:29And he's now died.
16:30That's what we wanted.
16:33To Johar, a few pieces of greasy fried chicken eaten in a brightly colored fast food setting means something more than a calorie bomb.
16:42That's why I'm fighting.
16:44That's why I give it a lot of blood from my country.
16:48Because I want to feel that.
16:51Because I want to feel that.
16:51The taste of freedom.
16:53The taste of freedom.
16:54It's nice taste.
16:55I want to feel that I want to feel that!
17:14Outside Tripoli's center, there's this.
17:28One-time access of all power and untold evil.
17:32A huge complex of sinister offices, barracks, residences,
17:37on top of a rabbit warren of secret tunnels and underground facilities.
17:41The Baab al-Aziziyah, Gaddafi's enormous compound.
17:57Most everything belonging to or associated with Gaddafi was destroyed.
18:06NATO continually bombed strategic locations within the compound.
18:10And on August 23rd, 2011, it fell to the rebels.
18:15Gaddafi and his family having fled.
18:23This is what's left of Gaddafi's palace.
18:26So when's the last time you were here?
18:44So when's the last time you were here?
19:14While talking, we didn't notice several pickup trucks of local militia had closed in
19:25on us.
19:34This is their turf, or their area of operation, or somehow under their control.
19:39Whatever the case, they're the group in charge today.
19:47An argument ensues between our guys and their guys, all of whom fought against the same forces
19:55on this ground a year ago.
19:57I'm going to ask you guys to select that side.
20:04You want to delete the tape, just leave.
20:07You have to delete what you've got, then just leave.
20:09Okay, okay, let's go.
20:11Let's go, go, go.
20:12Hold it down, hold it down, hold it down.
20:18Libya is denying that there is an imminent threat to the safety of Westerners in Benghazi.
20:27Now, this follows Britain's advice on Thursday that Westerners should get out of the city,
20:46warning of a specific and imminent threat.
20:48If you follow the news, you'll be reminded about how the lack of centralized power in
20:54the wake of the 2011 conflict has seen an increase in Islamic militancy in Libya.
20:59Westerners and Libyans are still very concerned with the French—
21:03What you see is not encouraging.
21:05Kidnappings in Algeria, unrest in Mali, terrorist cells to the south, deadly riots in Egypt, and,
21:12of course, extremist attacks in Benghazi that killed the U.S. ambassador.
21:16All those things are very real concerns.
21:20But if you only look at what's on the news, you can miss maybe what's a bigger picture.
21:31Another morning in Tripoli, and life goes on.
21:34Vendors are out.
21:35People go about their daily routines.
21:39This is our traditional breakfast.
21:45What is this dish called?
21:49Which is an overstretched donut, I suppose.
21:53Right, with an egg.
21:54With an egg on top.
21:56What's a little pancake they put on top, just to hold the egg in?
21:58Yeah, just to hold the egg in.
21:59It's like a hat for it or a cover or something.
22:02You can get them with cheese.
22:03You can get them with chili paste.
22:05You can have them with honey, with sugar.
22:07How do you like yours?
22:08I like mine cooked, to be honest.
22:10What's the name of this neighborhood?
22:13This is Feshlung.
22:14This is the cradle of the revolution.
22:16Right, now this was the first neighborhood to rise up.
22:18Yes, this is the first place to rise up.
22:20Why do you think this neighborhood and not Fesh?
22:22It's an impoverished neighborhood.
22:24It's been always lied to by this regime.
22:26They made them feel like they are not from this country, to be honest.
22:30Uh-huh.
22:37We start with Bismillah.
22:38Bismillah.
22:39And we go for it.
22:40Oh, yeah, dip it right in the egg.
22:42And dip it in the egg.
22:43Delicious.
22:46So where were you when it all started?
22:48I was in London.
22:49I was actually in Manchester at the time.
22:50Why?
22:51And by the 27th, I was in Libya.
22:54We went out to see his house yesterday.
22:56Uh-huh.
22:57In the compound.
22:58I was one of the guys who entered from the southern gates, not northern gates.
23:01Akram is in the security business.
23:03A thriving industry here, as you could probably imagine.
23:06A lot of things happen in a lot of different parts of the country.
23:09Yeah.
23:10Sort of simultaneously.
23:11Kind of amazing that all of these people came together very fast.
23:13How did it happen?
23:15Yeah.
23:16Easy.
23:17Twitter.
23:18Twitter.
23:19Yeah.
23:20It was really like that.
23:21Yes.
23:22We get a phone call from Tripoli or Benghazi or wherever.
23:25We get the coordinates via Google Earth.
23:27Right.
23:28We verify that there is a location there that needs to be hit.
23:31Send it to NATO at NATO.
23:33And then it's gone.
23:35Really?
23:36Yeah.
23:37How does that feel knowing you can call in a Tomahawk missile over there?
23:40It's out of the movies.
23:42Did anyone think it was possible that in their lifetime they were going to see the end of this son of a bitch?
23:48Most people are telling me they never dreamed.
23:50I don't know if you can call them dreams, hopes, wishes.
23:53It was just something in the sky.
23:56Something I look at every night.
23:58Right.
23:59But when I hit that point and got into Masrata and stood on Qaddafi's body, any dream will come true.
24:07What's the situation now?
24:09It's fluid.
24:10It can swing any direction.
24:12Well, look, what happened in Benghazi a few months ago, I mean, what does this mean to the country?
24:17I think there is a dark, mysterious hand who doesn't like this country to prosper.
24:23They see system and organization as a big enemy to them.
24:27These dark hands are slowly getting diminished.
24:29It's a matter of time before we can get rid of them.
24:31How hard do you think that's going to be?
24:33Not hard at all.
24:34We got rid of Qaddafi.
24:35Nothing else is hard.
24:36I like your attitude.
24:39The fluid situation in Libya has been intensifying since our arrival.
24:47And we've had to change our behavior.
24:49Constantly moving.
24:50Shouldn't I be wearing, you know, one of those cool, like, journalist safari jackets at this point?
24:55So it seemed a good time, or maybe not.
24:58Saddle up.
24:59To go to Masrata.
25:00Just wash this down your feet there, Tony.
25:02Yeah.
25:03Okay, guys, we can go.
25:04Roger that.
25:06Since the revolution, Masrata's been the most secure city in Libya.
25:11But over the last two weeks, in a hail of bullets and hand-thrown grenade attacks,
25:15an imam, security forces, and a police officer have all been killed.
25:20All along the narrow, congested highway, there are checkpoints,
25:32banned mostly by local militias.
25:35And I want to stress, most of them are friendly enough.
25:39We are, however, in a hurry to get to Masrata before dark.
25:44Traveling at night around here is not advised.
25:48I would drop the camera.
26:03Yep, yep.
26:05Stop the camera.
26:06Stop the camera.
26:07Oh.
26:10Pulling into town after dark, it doesn't feel like a happy place to be right now.
26:16Masrata was where some of the fiercest and most heroic struggles of the war occurred.
26:21Resistance was the most determined, and the response by the Gaddafi forces especially merciless.
26:28We've just learned that earlier in the day, a city councilman who was a hero of the revolution was assassinated.
26:38And it's not clear who's responsible.
26:41Masrata is on full lockdown.
26:43Another checkpoint.
26:44Looking around at the price this city paid for freedom, you can see why they don't want to lose what they fought so hard for.
26:56Morning in Masrata.
27:11How's the vibe?
27:12It's all quite quiet and chill at the moment.
27:15Daylight reveals the extent of the fighting that took place here not so long ago.
27:34This used to be a vegetable market.
27:39Clothes.
27:40One of the Gaddafi soldier's clothes.
27:42He left them here and ran.
27:43Yeah.
27:44Because that's what they did in Tripoli.
27:46We went to the city, they just moved their clothes and ran away in the streets so nobody would know who are they.
27:52This is Hamid, one of the guys we called the Misrata Boys.
27:56Basically, militia members from the area who looked out for us here and in Tripoli when things started to get hinky in neighboring Algeria and in Benghazi.
28:05This is seriously a tank.
28:08His job these days is hunting down former Gaddafi supporters.
28:12So, the Gaddafi forces rolled in.
28:15They would use these tanks to fire around the city.
28:17Around.
28:18Yeah.
28:19It was full of tanks here.
28:20This was the operation room here.
28:26Now if you had any doubt about the terrible odds these young revolutionaries were facing during the early days of the fighting, especially in the months before NATO came in with air support, check out Misrata's War Museum.
28:55What did this fire?
28:57It's fire a rocket.
28:59Homemade.
29:00And there's a rocket here.
29:01We put it here.
29:02And fire with the battery.
29:03Yeah.
29:04You had to have some serious courage to ride around with this thing.
29:07Why?
29:08We trust our people.
29:09There's a lot of homemade things here.
29:11This is homemade too.
29:12Fire is a big rocket.
29:14This is grad homemade.
29:15This one.
29:16This was from a helicopter.
29:18Yes.
29:19We got it and we brought it in the cars.
29:20You took it off a helicopter.
29:21Yeah.
29:22And you put it on a car.
29:23And you know what this is for?
29:25You know Molotov.
29:26And we fired it.
29:27So it's basically a crossbow that fires Molotov cocktails.
29:30Yeah, Molotov and TNT sometimes.
29:32You're shooting this at people who have mortars.
29:35And tanks.
29:36Tanks.
29:37Tanks, yeah.
29:38You're shooting this at tanks.
29:39Yeah.
29:40Because that's what we got at the time.
29:42That's what you had, man.
29:43Yeah.
29:44It's awesome.
29:45The next president of Libya, the one who's going to be in charge.
29:48Right.
29:49This is his chair.
29:50He has to think twice before he sits on it.
29:52So never screw your people.
29:53Yeah.
29:54Never screw your people.
29:55I'd remember.
29:56And here, these are Gaddafi stuff.
29:59Now this was all taken from the compound.
30:01Some of them from Serts.
30:03It's mixed.
30:04That's his AK.
30:05His chair.
30:06Preferred hair products.
30:08His shaving kit.
30:09See, he was wearing a mask.
30:11Oh, his beauty mask.
30:12Yeah.
30:13I can use some of that.
30:14It's Gaddafi.
30:15He's beautiful, you know.
30:21And this is the first Martyr in Misrata.
30:23That's the first?
30:24Yeah, that's the first one.
30:25Who was he?
30:26Not a soldier?
30:27No, no.
30:28Just a normal guy.
30:29They went out to protest the first rally.
30:31And somebody came in and shoot him.
30:33So the next day, the whole city came out.
30:36That's when everything started.
30:38These are photos of those killed during the uprising.
30:42Combatants and bystanders alike.
30:45Her name is Muna.
30:47She was six years when she died.
30:50Shelled in their homes.
30:52Tortured to death in prisons.
30:54Shot by snipers.
30:58Look at this kid.
30:59He died with the victory sign.
31:02They killed him like with a grenade.
31:07That's his lucky day.
31:08Yeah.
31:09You know what he was saying?
31:10He was saying, what's going on guys?
31:11Why?
31:12Why?
31:13Why my sons?
31:14Why are you doing that?
31:15He still have the t-shirt.
31:16Yeah.
31:17Yeah.
31:18With the blood in it.
31:19Yeah.
31:20Yeah.
31:21Yeah.
31:22Do you know any of these people?
31:23Yeah.
31:24I know a couple of them.
31:25I knew a couple of them.
31:26I knew a couple.
31:27These are.
31:28These are your friends.
31:29This guy is Egyptian.
31:30There's blood in it.
31:50Do you know any of these people?
31:52Yeah, I know a couple of them.
31:54I knew a couple of them.
31:56This guy is Egyptian.
31:58Not even his fight, but he came.
31:59I'm gonna leave.
32:00Four of them died in third.
32:02And death died in Tripoli.
32:04These are brothers and sisters.
32:06One, two, three, four.
32:08They died on the same day and in the same house.
32:10And the mother, when we found her,
32:12she was holding the kid.
32:13They were both dead and holding each other.
32:16It was a very sad moment.
32:29I'm moving the back to a bouquet.
32:30I miss the great story.
32:33Luden thank you for reading about my music video.
32:34I guess as your length are sitting in the middle of the
32:49night with her, and he's fitting and why does she take
32:54The Mediterranean Sea defines Libya's northern border.
33:11In shacks built along the coast, people get together on weekends to do what people do
33:16everywhere in the world in one form or another since the beginnings of society.
33:21Like barbecue? Who does not like barbecue?
33:25They sure like him here.
33:29Chase down an animal.
33:33Kill it.
33:38Cycle of life.
33:40Cut it into pieces and throw it on a flame.
33:46So all these people are freedom fighters, ex-freedom fighters.
33:49So just chilling, having fun, making barbecue.
33:53To start, they grill the lamb in small pieces with a few veggies.
33:57Not a beer, but something like it.
34:00I've been about a week without alcohol of any kind.
34:05I'm enjoying my new clean living lifestyle.
34:11Balls, yeah.
34:13That's hospitality.
34:15I've said it before.
34:16I'll say it again.
34:17Barbecue may not be the road to world peace, but it's a start.
34:23Yeah.
34:24Relax.
34:25Yeah.
34:26Laid back.
34:27In American, laid back.
34:30Laid back.
34:31A stew made of kidneys, liver, and heart served family style.
34:38Feel free to eat with hands.
34:40Right hand only, please.
34:42And a really traditional thing left over from the Italians, basically pasta with ragu.
34:55What's this dish called?
34:56Papuki.
34:57Papuki.
34:58Papuki.
34:59Because when it's the sound, it means it's ready.
35:01Oh, yeah?
35:02Yeah.
35:03It's good.
35:04So the Italians left you one good thing.
35:06Yeah.
35:07So the story of Misrata, the story of Libya, seems to be ordinary people suddenly called
35:19upon to do extraordinary things.
35:22Where were you when war broke out?
35:24I was in Canada, Montreal.
35:26Studying medicine?
35:27Yes.
35:28Dr. Jihan put her medical studies on hold to help tend all manner of horrible war injuries.
35:34What kind of procedures were you doing on a regular basis?
35:36Everything.
35:37Everything.
35:38Without prior practice and knowledge.
35:39So you're just like kind of in the situation.
35:41Trying to pick up things.
35:42How many patients did you treat a day?
35:4560, 70.
35:4660, 70.
35:47It's like a lot.
35:48Like the whole hospital was full.
35:50When you heard he'd been killed, what did you feel?
35:53Relief?
35:54I felt relieved.
35:56I was like realizing that, okay, it's over.
35:59I'm trying to heal my own wounds because in the middle of it, you just go, go, go.
36:04And you never realize how much injuries and trauma you got inside yourself.
36:09That's right.
36:10Because before you never think of like we're going to survive and we're going to have a
36:13free Libya or anything.
36:14It's just like going with the state of mind that I'm going to do my best and I'm ready
36:19to be in peace with myself if I die.
36:21And then you find yourself here.
36:23Now it's like, now it's the gray area.
36:28Jihan risked her life along with the men.
36:31But traditional and hidebound rules of conduct do not allow her to sit with them during dinner.
36:36She's relegated to what might be called the kids table.
36:40What can one say, we who like to think of ourselves as more enlightened in this area?
36:46I don't know.
36:47Rightly or wrongly, I said nothing.
36:54What does freedom mean?
36:56I don't know that either, I guess.
37:00For sure, it does mean the freedom to enjoy an afternoon no one thought possible only a little while ago.
37:08The freedom at least to joke, to laugh, to be for a while relatively carefree.
37:15For sure, Libya.
37:18Goodbye.
37:19Goodbye.
37:20Goodbye.
37:45Goodbye.
37:46Goodbye.
37:47Goodbye.
37:51The road to Tripoli, a healthy breakfast.
37:55Ooh, liver sandwich.
37:57When they talk about a high risk environment I think they were talking about this.
38:02That's good.
38:11Halfway back to Tripoli, the magnificent ruins of Leptis Magna, arguably the most intact
38:30remains of a Roman city in the world.
38:37It's worth noting that at one time, the emperor of all Rome was himself, Libyan, born right
38:45here.
38:49Someone chipped off all their dicks, not that I was looking.
39:03Somewhere else in the world, this place would be overrun with tourists, but look, no one.
39:09You're free to wander as you wish.
39:13Quite a backdrop, you know, if you're seeing a little dinner theater production of Our Town
39:18a couple of thousand years ago.
39:23Not bad.
39:25The only other visitors today are a troop of Libyan Boy Scouts.
39:30Bizarrely enough, Gaddafi himself was once a scout, and this was one of the only organizations
39:36allowed to remain independent of the government.
39:39Maybe I should go down there and introduce myself to my former comrades.
39:44Exchange some Boy Scout lore.
39:45Yes.
39:46Yes.
39:47I was once a Boy Scout, too.
39:50Shazakamu alaykum.
39:51Shazakamu alaykum.
39:52Shazakamu alaykum.
39:53Shazakamu alaykum.
39:54Hello.
39:55Drilled into their heads is something that was long ago drilled into mine.
39:58Shazdumat!
39:59Shazdumat!
40:00Shazakamu alaykum!
40:02I promise to be trustworthy, loyal, helpful, friendly, courteous, kind, obedient, cheerful,
40:06thrifty, brave, clean and reverent.
40:09Shazakamu alaykum.
40:21Shazakamu alaykum.
40:26Shazakamu alaykum.
40:28Shazakamu alaykum.
40:31Shazakamu alaykum.
40:36You know, it's been a really difficult shoot for a whole lot of reasons.
40:55It's not easy to shoot here.
41:04But in spite of all that, for me, this was a happy show.
41:11It's Libya.
41:13They were supposed to be the bad guys, a bad country filled with bad people, right?
41:18I don't think so.
41:20I met a lot of really nice people here.
41:24Nobody's saying we're going to be perfect tomorrow.
41:27Everybody seems to be saying, you know, in five, see us, look at us in five years.
41:33So they give us a pretty reasonable attitude.
41:36I love you, Libya!
41:38This is a place that's filled with a lot of extraordinary people who've done an extraordinary thing,
41:43on very short notice, under very difficult circumstances, and at a very difficult time.
41:51who are continuing to do the best they can.
41:54And I wish them well.
41:58I wish them well.
41:59I wish them well.
42:00I wish them well.
42:01I wish them well.
42:02They never want to lie.
42:03I wish them well.
42:04I wish them well.
42:05Maybe they're not the best they can share.
42:07Maybe they'll get so well.
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