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00:00I
00:25went looking for the dream of Africa.
00:29I woke up in Tanzania.
00:46I took a walk through this beautiful world
00:52Felt the cool rain on my shoulder
00:57Found something good in this beautiful world
01:03I felt the rain getting colder
01:09THELA LALA LALA
01:12SHALALALALA
01:15SHALALALALA
01:18SHALALALALALA
01:20Lahlahlahlahlahlahlahlahlahlahlah
01:29Eh!
01:50The narrow streets and neatly dressed school children of Zanzibar's stone town
02:02make it feel like a very different Africa than I've ever known.
02:06It's tight, small.
02:09The architecture speaks of many layers, of a hierarchy long gone but still evident.
02:17The famous Zanzibari doors, for instance.
02:20Meticulously carved of mahogany and teak.
02:26The patterns reveal details of the original inhabitants' ethnicity and professions.
02:32Brass spikes evoke similar doors in India.
02:35The lotus flower, a historically Egyptian symbol, is meant to promote fertility.
02:41And chains, a reminder that this once was a central hub of the slave trade.
02:46What Zanzibar is today is definitely and overwhelmingly Muslim.
03:0899% of the population.
03:11And you see its strong influence everywhere you look.
03:15The children and hijab coming from the madrasa.
03:18The streets are neat.
03:20And private homes, even of the very poor, are maintained with great pride.
03:25The call to prayer.
03:26Five times a day.
03:32Zanzibar, part of Tanzania, but also a semi-autonomous state, sits just 30 miles off the coast of the mainland.
03:38The minute you cross the ocean, from mainland, the minute you enter Stone Town, you feel like you're in a different country, a different culture, a different vibe.
03:47Saleh Saeed is a native Zanzibari and former tour guide.
03:50And he knows his way around these parts.
03:52So, what are our options here?
03:55This is what we call mandazi.
03:58Mandazi, a classic Swahili treat, basically an African donut or flipper.
04:03And bahias, a fried lentil fritter.
04:05Indian, spiced with cumin, turmeric and coriander.
04:11Do you have a cup of coffee?
04:12Yeah, let's do it.
04:13If you live here, if you're from here, chances are you start your day with some bitter, spiced coffee, talk about the issues of the day.
04:24Politics, for one.
04:25Maybe a pastry.
04:27Mmm.
04:28You like yours?
04:29Oh, that's good.
04:31So, you're born and bred here?
04:33In Zanzibar.
04:34How long has your family been here?
04:35How far back do you guys know?
04:37I'm half Indian, half African, and my mother's been here fourth generation.
04:40Fourth generation, so that's starting out in?
04:44Late 1700.
04:45Wow.
04:46So, who built Stone Tack?
04:48Who built this neighborhood?
04:49The construction started in about 1830s during the Portuguese colony.
04:52We had Portuguese, yeah?
04:53Right.
04:54Omanis stayed from 1846.
04:58They left in 1964.
05:00But they lost a lot of power in 1896.
05:04Confused?
05:05Let's take a step back.
05:06The Persians were the first major power to set up here back around 975 A.D., expanding their empire onto the strategically positioned island.
05:16Then the Portuguese used Zanzibar as a hub for their slave trade and spices.
05:21Then the Omanis did the same, ultimately with the British, who ruled through them.
05:291964.
05:30Revolution.
05:31As with most revolutions, the days following were violent, chaotic, and ugly.
05:38After overthrowing the mostly Arab government, reprisals.
05:43It wasn't independent since revolution, where more than 3,000 Arabs are slaughtered, and a lot of Indians are slaughtered and removed out of these countries.
05:50But your family stayed?
05:51My family stayed.
05:52Why?
05:52There was no money in the family for them to move out.
05:55So it was just, there was no option?
05:56There was no option.
05:57To stick with what was left?
05:58Yeah.
05:59Tough times?
05:59Very tough times.
06:07In about two hours from Stonetown, this is Jambiani, a tiny fishing village.
06:14Here, the first revolutionaries would meet and plan for an independent Zanzibar.
06:19Zanzibar's first post-revolution president, Abid Amani Karoumi, served until his assassination in 1972.
06:28This, too, is Abid Karoumi, grandson of the country's first president.
06:33Well, what was this situation back then, the political situation back then?
06:37Well, it wasn't good.
06:38Basically, it was the English on top, Arabs in the middle, and then the Africans way, way at the bottom.
06:44And it was a form of apartheid, you know?
06:47So, was this village sort of a center for revolutionary...
06:51This village was important in terms of the political support prior to the revolution.
06:56When my grandfather and my grandmother were staying right here, and they had meetings on the field, right over there.
07:01That's where they would have their meetings, to raise support for the African and Shirazi people, their identity.
07:10The subject was to give equal rights to all people in Zanzibar.
07:14Of course, revolutions aren't the best thing sometimes when it comes to peaceful transition.
07:23Well, this is the house in Wanhassani and Bimwaka.
07:27They're preparing a wonderful lunch for us.
07:30Bimwaka!
07:31Bimwaka!
07:32Bimwaka!
07:33Bimwaka!
07:34Bimwaka!
07:35Bimwaka!
07:36Bimwaka!
07:37Bimwaka!
07:39This is Bimwaka.
07:40She used to take care of my grandmother many, many years ago.
07:44How hours.
07:50Well, I'm looking forward to lunch.
07:56Bimwaka was a close family friend to Abid and his grandparents.
08:00And she's putting together... quite a spread.
08:04Coconut rice.
08:06Freshly caught fish called tassi, simmered in broth of garlic and lime, topped with mchusi.
08:11A fresh salad of chopped tomato, eggplant, cucumber, and potato.
08:16Another fish, kabua, or mackerel, marinated in lime juice and garlic, then pan-fried.
08:22Now, this is good.
08:23Whoa, that's looking good.
08:25So, coconut rice.
08:27Yeah.
08:28Chapati bread.
08:29Yep, that's it.
08:30From the other side of the water there.
08:32That's it.
08:33This is cassava.
08:34Cassava?
08:35Two different types of fish.
08:37Hand-fried bread.
08:39Wow, what a spread here.
08:40And you can use your hands.
08:42Good.
08:43The fish I can do by hand, the rice.
08:46I'm going to help.
08:47Mmm, good.
08:49What do you think of the mohogo?
08:50It's nice, huh?
08:51The cassava.
08:52Lovely.
08:54Yeah, it's so good.
08:55The rice is great, too.
08:58Whatever your feelings on revolutions, it is probably worth remembering that they start
09:03in places like this.
09:05People talking.
09:06And when they are won, they are often won by people who sat at the feet of the original
09:11planners.
09:12People who look like this.
09:16Look at all these kids.
09:18Watch out.
09:19Future revolutionaries.
09:22Exactly.
09:23New ideas coming in that change things.
09:26It comes from them.
09:27Think about it.
09:28I mean, the challenges we face as a small island country.
09:31I mean, doesn't the whole world face a similar challenge?
09:34Yeah.
09:35How to preserve all these things.
09:37How to find balance.
09:38For me, I see Africa as a whole.
09:42I see a very interesting client.
09:44Hopeful?
09:45I'm very hopeful, actually.
09:46Optimistic?
09:47I am optimistic.
09:48I think the Trans-Burk people are great people.
09:51And given the opportunity, I think they can put a lot on the table, not only for themselves,
09:57but also for the culture of East Africa, and possibly even the world.
10:01I think they're great people.
10:02Why not?
10:05Sky's the limit, right?
10:27Say you're going to Zanzibar, and people will tell you about the street food.
10:44It's pretty impressive.
10:48In Stone Towns for Donny Gardens, every night, vendors set up an insane variety of every iteration
10:55of seafood snack.
10:56Oh, yeah.
10:57Oh, I love some of that.
10:59The first one here, we got the tiger bronze.
11:02We got some shrimps.
11:04We have octopus calamari mixed with masala spice.
11:07We have a scallop shellfish.
11:09We have a mussel, small shell.
11:11We have tuna fish, blue marli, redisnepa, kora shai, mahi-mahi, and redisnepa.
11:17Good.
11:17So welcome.
11:18I think, let me try some of the octopus.
11:21So how about lobster?
11:23Oh.
11:24Yeah, with masala spice, but it's not hot.
11:26When you feel hot, we give you chili mango.
11:27I like hot.
11:28All right, good.
11:28Give me some chili mango with that.
11:29Okay, good.
11:30Octopus, chewy, but tasty.
11:43Lobster's working for me.
11:46Too spicy for you, man.
11:48Yeah, believe me.
11:50Only one of us is going to be shitting like a mink tonight.
11:53It's not going to be you.
11:53Oh, the famous ends of our pizza.
12:06Awesome.
12:11Beef, tomato, fresh, cheese, mayonnaise, with egg.
12:16Sounds awesome to me.
12:17Lookin' good.
12:30Weird and wonderful.
12:34And...
12:34Damn.
12:36These stands are extremely popular with locals and visitors alike, so of course the government
12:44raised the rents.
12:46One guy, Juma, decided to pick up and move his place a bit out of town.
12:52His customers came with him.
12:56It's Juma.
12:57Hey, Juma.
12:57How are you?
12:57Juma.
12:58So, what are we having?
13:01Yeah, your choice of beef on the steak, chicken on the steak, half chicken, and all the spices
13:04and sauces that they have here.
13:06Right.
13:06I've ordered beef for now.
13:07Beef good.
13:08Now let's get half a chicken.
13:09Half a chicken?
13:10Yeah, sure.
13:11Juma's is famous for his chicken.
13:17Hey!
13:19The bird is slathered with a mixture of garlic, lime, coriander, ginger, salt and pepper.
13:23Then, it's grilled and served either as satay or whole pieces topped with tamarind chili
13:28sauce.
13:29Preparation for all this, they start in the morning.
13:32Preparing, cutting, and then they come here at 6.30 and they finish about 10.
13:39How many guys are working here?
13:41There's about six, seven of them.
13:43Six or seven of them?
13:44All around the table.
13:45Wow, that's a big operation.
13:48Okay.
13:49He's finishing the skewers.
13:50I guess he's half cooking or saucing.
13:53He's reheating, finishing the skewers.
13:56That guy just doesn't set up plates for him to top with meat.
14:00And then, I guess they got the bread and sauce and finishing and to go also.
14:04What are they squirting on the fries?
14:06There's hot sauce, there's ketchup, and there's tamarind.
14:09They say, never go hungry here.
14:11There's always food in the street.
14:13If you come here to buy 10 skewers, you'd end up actually buying 20 or 30 because somebody's
14:17always asking for food.
14:18Right.
14:18And you always buy it.
14:19It's just the culture.
14:20No one says no to each other for food.
14:23You have to, eh?
14:24There we go.
14:25It does.
14:26And you use the stick as your fork.
14:30Hot, hot, hot.
14:34Where do you think the recipe came from?
14:36This is a real mixed up history here.
14:38It's mostly Arabic, Indian components have been in.
14:42The spices, most of the trees, like mangoes came from India, pineapples came from Brazil.
14:47Tamarind, Southeast Asia, like not even India.
14:50You get in India.
14:50Damn, that's good.
14:55I tell you, this chicken's really awesome.
14:59Might need some more of this.
15:01I like the heat, man.
15:03Woo!
15:03Good stuff.
15:05Incredible.
15:05The 250-mile flight from Zanzibar across the water to the town of Arusha takes just an
15:23hour and a half.
15:24But culturally, you might as well be flying from Texas to the Philippines.
15:35Kilimanjaro, into whose white peak Hemingway's gangrenous hero saw himself disappear as he
15:49slipped into death.
15:52From there, we head into the Serengeti.
15:54The journey of this kind, one must expect the occasional setback.
16:19We reach the eastern edge of the Serengeti, where it's a steep climb to the rim of the magnificent
16:43Ngorongoro crater.
16:44Once a massive volcano that somewhere around 2.5 million years ago collapsed in on itself, creating
16:55this caldera, a true lost world.
17:01Inside the crater, an entire ecosystem within an ecosystem.
17:07Wildlife pretty much stay put.
17:10Coming to drink, well, right below my place.
17:14It's nice, very, very nice, if you find yourself here.
17:20A hot bubble bath awaits after a long day in the bush.
17:26Perhaps a dry sherry from a cut glass decanter.
17:30The next morning, one rises to breakfast in one's chambers, on the balcony perhaps.
17:35Silver service, hot coffee, freshly baked croissant.
17:37Good morning.
17:38Thank you, sir.
17:39You're welcome.
17:40The rules of the house, while slightly restricting, are sensible enough.
17:48And given the luxurious surroundings and the view, hardly a burden.
17:52You're not supposed to wander around at night here, unescorted.
17:55There's like lions and hyenas and elephants and stuff.
18:00And while I'm told the baboons can get rapey, um, there were no knocks on the door.
18:11You know, I know what you're thinking already.
18:16You're not going to do what I think you're going to do, are you?
18:18You're not going to go out there and shoot some beautiful animal in the brain.
18:21No.
18:22Answer?
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18:53It's nuts driving into the Serengeti.
19:13After a short while, you actually get used to the Jungle Book scene playing out in front
19:24of your car.
19:25It's interesting to see the giraffe and wildebeest, zebra.
19:38They all seem to hang out with each other, no conflict at all.
19:42Pretty much, there's no conflict in what they want to eat.
19:45It starts with the elephants, buffaloes taking the big stuff out.
19:48Zebras follow down, and then the wildebeest are a really close crop.
19:55My guide is Colin McConnell, a fourth-generation African born in Kenya, who lives in Tanzania
20:01and knows this area like I know the deli counter at Barney Greengrass.
20:05This is the edge of the woodland here.
20:08Just about every tree you see here that's lying on its side hasn't fallen over out of
20:12choice.
20:13It's been pushed over by elephants.
20:15There's an elephant over there.
20:21Oh yeah.
20:22Whoa.
20:23He's a big bull.
20:24Magnificent.
20:25Will he charge us?
20:26No.
20:27If we piss him off?
20:28If we piss him off, he would.
20:29If we piss him off, he would.
20:35They sleep so soundly, these zebra, you can creep right up and suddenly jump up.
20:55Zebras and more zebras.
20:58So many almost get bored seeing a herd of them.
21:01Giraffes looking only slightly irritated to be interrupted.
21:04And ever more massive herds.
21:06Stadium-sized crowds of wildebeest.
21:08A fish concert of these unkempt-looking things every few hundred yards.
21:12All that's missing is the hacky sack.
21:15Everyone's come to terms with now that the wildebeest migration means wildebeest jumping
21:20into rivers.
21:21The fact that that only happens two months of the whole year.
21:25The rest of the year they're trekking through the bush.
21:28But to me this is so much more spectacular.
21:31You see these big numbers.
21:33You'll be in an area this morning that was full of wildebeest and go there this afternoon
21:38and there's not one.
21:39They've moved.
21:40Thousands and thousands of wildebeest on their annual migration are everywhere.
21:47A big circle stretched out across Tanzania and into Kenya in search of prime grazing.
21:54It's all about water and grass and a good place to make babies.
22:01I mean look at this little guy.
22:03He's keeping up with his mum.
22:04Yeah he's doing okay.
22:05Within 15 minutes of being born they're up and standing.
22:10Really?
22:11Running as fast as their mum's within a couple of hours.
22:14There's a wildebeest that didn't make it.
22:17How old is that you think?
22:18A day or two.
22:19Oh really?
22:20Yeah yeah.
22:21Very fresh.
22:22Wow.
22:23You don't want to get lost here.
22:24You definitely don't want to be on foot outside your car or injured for instance.
22:29Nature, as they say, is a cruel mistress.
22:33It takes care of its own without mercy.
22:36The evidence of this cruel math called survival is everywhere.
22:41Non-immediate family are not going to help a brother out.
22:44No, you think, huh?
22:45Start limping, first come the hyenas.
22:48The hyenas see the vultures dropping.
22:51Right.
22:52And that's a key to them that there's some food up.
22:55And the vultures really need the hyenas to rip open the skin to start eating it.
23:00By the time they finished ripping out your soft parts, treating your femur like a chew toy,
23:05the vultures and the marabou storks, lovingly called the undertaker birds, have been waiting for their turn.
23:10I don't know about you, but whenever I have cause to reflect on a pack of hyenas tunneling into an ass and ripping out the guts,
23:17I think, you know what?
23:19I could really go for some pesto right now.
23:22By Lake Masek, we pause for lunch.
23:25Indigitous specialties like penne with pesto, steamed baby corn and snow peas, grilled tomatoes sprinkled with parmesan.
23:32Oh, look, brownies.
23:35Those hippos are coming in close.
23:37Yeah, they can smell the pasta.
23:39They love pesto.
23:42They're coming ashore.
23:44Here's safe.
23:46Over thankfully cold beers, I learn who is really the most dangerous animal around here.
23:53Yeah, that's right.
23:55Mr. Lovable Funny Hippo.
23:57Always in a tutu in the cartoons.
23:59A vicious, unpredictable, and apparently incredibly fast-moving killer.
24:04You know, you happen to leave here and go for a pee behind the tree there.
24:07Yeah.
24:08And come face to face with this hippo.
24:10A hippo would easily outrun you.
24:12One big chomp, big tusks go straight through you.
24:16Top of you in half.
24:18Just get between them and their mud hole and they'll be all over you like Justin Bieber's bodyguards.
24:23It can get ugly.
24:25What do hippo penises look like?
24:27I have no idea.
24:28A hippo never emerges from the water with like a...
24:30No.
24:31A hippo hard on.
24:33Not that I've seen.
24:35Really?
24:36No, they're underwater.
24:38I don't go snorkeling.
24:41I find that comforting to know.
24:43No.
24:44The seven to five days.
24:46Another, a personalized wif news.
24:47They are among the last great warrior tribes on earth.
24:49Semi-nomadic, they believe that all wereżeor the poi cast their rival.
25:04They are among the last great warrior tribes on earth.
25:10Semi-nomadic, they believe that all the world's cattle are a gift of the gods to them, the Maasai people.
25:18They move with their animals across the Tanzanian plains, setting up homes where they find the best grazing.
25:34Their cattle are everything. The wealth of the family, units of currency, givers of milk to live, and on special occasions of meat and blood.
25:47The Maasai construct their villages or bomas like this as strategic hamlets designed to repel and discourage predators.
25:55You have a lot of livestock coming in here. A lot of the other, like the migratory games, they've all taken off.
26:01So this area is quite famous for the cats, for the big cats.
26:06The big cats, lions, roam free here, an area of the Serengeti called Ndutu.
26:13It's a paradox. I mean, the lions are an enemy to them. They are a competitor.
26:18But they're also something that they greatly admire.
26:24It's the map.
26:25Swedish native Ingele Jansen, a field biologist with the Serengeti lion project, is trying to find a balance between the needs, traditions, and basic identity of the Maasai people,
26:36and the outside world's desire to protect these beautiful killing machines.
26:41This is what can happen when a Maasai warrior defending his cattle takes on a hungry adult lion.
26:47For the Maasai, being apprised of the comings and goings of the lion population is a useful thing,
26:56preferable to find out in advance, one would think, and take evasive action, than the alternative.
27:03But remember, too, and respect, that the Maasai have always defined themselves and their identities by their enemy.
27:10A tribe of proud warriors.
27:12What happens when there's no one and nothing to fight?
27:25Ingele has brought several Maasai onto her team to show them up close the lions they share this land with.
27:32So often on my days out, when I'm working with the Maasai, you don't eat at all.
27:38You get a cup of tea in the morning, and then even lucky in the rainy season, you'll get either fresh milk or this.
27:44This is Amasi, by the way.
27:46A lumpy, yogurt-like drink central to the Maasai diet.
27:50Cheers.
27:50Cheers.
27:51And before you say yuck, it might be worth noting that between their nearly 100% protein diet of meat, blood, and dairy,
28:00the Maasai are known to have near-superhuman cardio, Olympic-level stamina and condition.
28:06They can run miles at a time without rest or water, and can basically kick your ass at near any physical contest, given half the chance.
28:15So help yourself to some sour lumpy goodness.
28:19Mmm, not bad.
28:20A little honey, some raisins in there.
28:23Good to go.
28:32It's so different here, like the rainy season, dry season.
28:36Such different challenges.
28:40What do you think of going under here?
28:42I'm okay with it.
28:43Currently, Ingela's been tracking two lions in particular, Ramos and Puyol.
29:01Oh, Ramos is there.
29:10Safi.
29:12Do you see them?
29:13I see, yes, I do.
29:14There they are.
29:15I see them.
29:17Wow.
29:19Two of them.
29:20Yeah.
29:21You like them, don't you?
29:22Oh, they're magnificent.
29:24They're very admirable.
29:26He's a bit of a warrior, that one.
29:27Pretend.
29:28Should we try and approach them?
29:30Yeah.
29:34When you go for lions, you don't never drive straight on them.
29:37Right.
29:37You kind of go at an angle that relaxes them a lot more.
29:48It's funny how they pretend they don't see you.
29:50They're so completely aware.
30:00So basically what we look at to identify them are the spots.
30:04It's like their fingerprint.
30:06Puncture wound in his face, that means he's fighting with females.
30:10Like if they fight with another competitor males, it'll be, the wounds will be on the back.
30:16It's too dangerous to go for the head area if they're fighting.
30:18The reason for the colors is to see how lions behave to cope with threats in the area.
30:25To show that lions and Maasai can actually stay together.
30:30They've always lived together.
30:36For the Maasai, one of the diminishing things for them is large range lengths.
30:41It's the same resource that a lion needs.
30:43If push came to show and one part had to go, it wouldn't be the wildlife.
30:49That's bringing in far too much money for this country.
30:51Right.
30:52So if they can show you that they're actually fundamental to protecting this area and protecting the lions,
31:01well, then it's the better for them as well.
31:04What's the total population of lions, do you think, countrywide?
31:08Tanzania probably has this 25 to 50 percent of the total population of lions,
31:14so it's an important country for it.
31:15And the last estimate is 30,000 lions remaining.
31:19I think it's not so much the worry of the size, but it's the rapid decrease.
31:25We've lost large predators in the big part of the world.
31:30The world carries on.
31:32You would probably have other predators to take their place.
31:35You know, there'd be the hyenas, there'd be the cheetahs, there'd be the leopards.
31:39Of course, they couldn't take the big prey like the lion does.
31:42If you think about it that way, lions are a big show of an ecosystem that is healthy.
31:48They're important to that.
31:52Twenty, twenty-two hours of the day, they relax.
31:55Just a few miles from the crater's rim, Misigio Village.
32:22About 400 Maasai live here.
32:25All right, look, I do got another number, huh?
32:27Ole Dorop is the chief.
32:29He has four wives, 12 children, a handful of whom are old enough to be out looking after the herds.
32:39Where are you from, Tony?
32:40I was born in New Jersey and live in New York.
32:43Oh.
32:44You have a son in New Jersey, yeah?
32:46Yes, yes, yes.
32:47He studied in one of the college known as the Montclair Strait.
32:51Oh, sure.
32:52I don't want Clare very well.
32:53Oh, yeah?
32:54You're where I grew up.
32:56Oh, yes.
32:56Wow, look at that cloud there.
33:04There's going to be some Danfor.
33:07Well, do you think it comes here, Ole Dorop?
33:09No.
33:10No?
33:10No.
33:11Not us.
33:12It's funny.
33:13Like, they always know what the clouds are doing.
33:15There's a weather report out here.
33:18The Maasai have been migrating with the seasons since they came to this part of Africa sometime
33:22in the 15th century, long, long before the Serengeti became a national park.
33:29And here we run into the kind of existential conflict we'll be seeing more and more of
33:33as the world decides what they value most.
33:37Unspoiled expanses of nature, populated still with magnificent, wild, but aggressively protected
33:43animals, were the indigenous people.
33:47The aim for our project was promoting coexistence with lions.
33:51So when I came here to start up the Lion Guardians, but there were many among the Maasai
33:56that were very suspicious.
33:58Why?
33:58They thought, is this going to lead to us being kicked out?
34:01That's a constant fear in this area.
34:03Because in the past, the Maasai got to find the lion where they are and they kill.
34:10But today we stop that.
34:11Or we can kill if no way.
34:14If you have no alternative.
34:16Yeah.
34:16That's why we have a spear.
34:18We are not hunters people, but we carry the spear all the time for protection.
34:21The Maasai, they trust that we're not here to kick them out, that we're here to work
34:25with them.
34:26And we're foreseeing that we're going to be able to start the Lion Guardian project,
34:31which basically you hire Maasai to protect the lions rather than kill them.
34:37With all of the cattle the Maasai people have, how do you protect them from predators?
34:44The animals are very smart enough.
34:46If you do not bother them, they do not bother you.
34:50So how about when they're grazing?
34:52When they're grazing, we have people who follow.
34:54And that's enough to discourage a hyena or a lion.
34:59Yes, but sometimes they're happy lions, so they're making a lot to show themselves that
35:05they're very happy.
35:07And the way to make that, they say, whoo, whoo, whoo, whoo, that's to make you happy,
35:15you know, if they just like to catch something, you can hear very close, only like, whoo, whoo.
35:27And that stops.
35:29But that's a loud like, whoo.
35:31That's a happy one.
35:32That's a happy one.
35:33No problem.
35:33No problem.
35:34But that purring one, the second noise, that's not good.
35:38That one is not good.
35:39That's not a, that's not a hear kitty situation.
35:42Oh, this one must be looking for founding food, maybe.
35:46Okay.
35:47My cat hates me.
35:49Yeah.
35:54Okay.
35:55This, a lot of you are going to find very disturbing.
36:01I'm guessing the little goat over there is about to get the bad news.
36:09I try and be a good guest.
36:18I eat what my hosts put in front of me.
36:21I try to take responsibility if something dies for my dinner.
36:27Stand here?
36:28No, no, no, here.
36:29All this in the home.
36:31So when the chief asks if I care to do the honors and tells me how it has to be done, I'm not happy.
36:39In fact, as I close off its air passages, I'm struggling to not throw up on myself.
36:50Man, I'm ready.
36:56Yeah.
37:03Tony, do you know how to skin it?
37:06Uh, not well enough.
37:07Maybe I can show you and then I can go ahead, okay?
37:12The Maasai traditionally kill their goats by suffocation.
37:16For very good reason, it turns out.
37:18To keep the blood, which is a vital component for the Maasai diet, intact and abundant in the chest cavity.
37:28They continue now to slow the rotator, to take the skin out, so you can cut here.
37:33Just right through?
37:34Yeah.
37:34Oh, good.
37:37Oh, good.
37:40Here now.
37:41You start to like this.
37:43Mm-hmm.
37:44Good.
37:44Then, continue like this.
37:49More?
37:50Yep.
37:50A little more.
37:52Good.
37:53Good.
37:53Everything's intact.
37:54Beautiful.
37:54This is blood.
37:56So, all the blood stopped.
37:57So, it filled up the cavity and started to get coagulated.
38:01Yes.
38:01Yes.
38:02Yes.
38:02I get it now.
38:03And it's easier now to take the blood out.
38:05Right.
38:06You see?
38:06Wow.
38:07Yeah.
38:07That's really, I've never seen that.
38:09That's super cool.
38:10Yes.
38:11Someone like to drink fresh.
38:13Sure.
38:13Hey, not bad.
38:24Oh, it's good.
38:25People, they eat this one fresh.
38:31That's a kidney.
38:32Yeah.
38:33You like your piece?
38:35Yeah, just a little piece.
38:36A little.
38:37Deed done, it's time for a little kidney.
38:41Enjoy the spoils, then party.
38:44Mm.
38:46Sweet.
38:47Actually, that's good.
38:48I like them better like this than cooked.
38:49Even on the Serengeti, it ain't a barbecue
39:17if there ain't some kind of beer.
39:20Normally, we are, the most say we love honey.
39:24We have what you call honey beer.
39:27You drink, it's just very strong.
39:30So, we have here.
39:31Love to try some.
39:37I noticed a palpable change in the mood.
39:39Oh, it's refreshing as well.
39:58Asante.
39:59And dorado.
40:00It's not bad.
40:01Tasty.
40:02Oh, it's refreshing as well.
40:03It's like a palm wine or even like kind of pulque-like taste also.
40:12You can definitely taste the honey.
40:15Yeah.
40:16The sweetness.
40:17According to our culture, everyone has carried a big knife.
40:27Everybody's ready.
40:33Many aspects of their lifestyle and traditions remain unchanged.
40:40Awesome.
40:42Perfect.
40:43This does not mean the Masai don't have cell phones, by the way.
40:47Everybody does.
40:52As you say, we are talking about how can we balance this because we are not looking to send our children to school, getting a good education, but we still stay in a very strong culture.
41:06Yeah, it's really coming like a hard time, but we continue.
41:11Well, that's another question.
41:12You know, when your son comes back from New Jersey, you know, is your son going to want a motorcycle?
41:18Is he going to want a car?
41:19Is he going to want a flat screen TV?
41:21He's going to want a public attack?
41:25Yes.
41:27I don't know how the future comes, because as you know, the children, they are very quickly changing their minds.
41:28Maybe one day coming as a New Jersey boy?
41:32I don't know.
41:36it's beautiful this country this part of africa
41:42geographically huge but not really as the world and what we need to live in it shrinks every day
41:52who gets to live here who or what do we want to see is for better or worse going to determine that
42:04nearly 1.5 billion dollars is spent here every year by people who come wanting to look mostly
42:12at beautiful animals that is an amount it is hard to argue with and impossible to outrun
42:34so
42:41you
42:43you
42:49you
42:53you
42:55you
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