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Hace aproximadamente un mes, el fundador de Victory Barber Brand, Matty Conrad se afeitó la barba de 10 años. Ahora que ha vuelto a crecer parcialmente, él está aquí para mostrarte las herramientas y técnicas que necesitas para darle forma a una nueva barba en cuatro pasos.

Reglas para que tu barba se vea siempre bien
https://www.gq.com.mx/cuidado-personal/articulo/reglas-para-llevar-barba-y-se-vea-bien

Los productos y herramientas esenciales para dominar la barba
https://www.gq.com.mx/cuidado-personal/articulo/barba-perfecta-productos-y-herramientas-esenciales

No olvides suscribirte a GQ México y Latinoamérica para más contenido: https://www.youtube.com/c/gqmexicoylatinoamerica

¡Comparte!

#Grooming #MattyConrad #Barbas
Transcript
00:00Here's the best way to create a curved line.
00:02We're going to use our trimmer inverted to punch a line in,
00:04and I'm going to stretch the skin up higher like this.
00:10So you can see once we release that, it has a slightly soft bend,
00:13and that beard looks a lot better groomed.
00:16Hey GQ, as promised, I'm back, and I can't wait to clean this up.
00:30Okay, let's recap.
00:32About a month ago, I shaved off a beard that I've had for almost 10 years.
00:37If you haven't seen that video, go check it out.
00:39So you probably noticed a few changes from the last video
00:41because after you cut off a great big beard,
00:43your face shape changes substantially.
00:46What we're going to do now is we're going to grow our beard back,
00:48and I've been doing this just without touching it at all.
00:51I haven't shaved, I haven't shaped, I haven't done anything.
00:54I've just let it grow for four weeks.
00:57Now, normally I wouldn't recommend people doing that.
00:59Sometime around the two-week mark is probably when you want to start
01:02creating a little bit of a shape,
01:03but I wanted to leave it so that I could show you guys
01:06the dramatic impact that it makes.
01:07Some of the things you're going to experience in the first four weeks,
01:10itchiness, disheveledness.
01:13You're probably going to want to try to use beard oil.
01:15Don't.
01:15You're probably going to outline it too quick.
01:18Don't.
01:19And you're probably going to start taking clippers and guards to it.
01:21Don't do any of those things.
01:23Just wait.
01:25And if you've avoided the temptation to do any of those things,
01:27you're probably in good shape for a shape-up.
01:30For this, what we're going to need is a trimmer.
01:33Now remember, a trimmer is about creating edges,
01:36so it's very fine teeth and gets all the way down to the skin.
01:38An electric shaver or a razor blade of your choice.
01:42I like electric shavers because I don't get so many ingrowns on my neck.
01:46You are also going to want to have some sort of a soft brush and a finishing balm.
01:50In one of my previous videos,
01:53I was showing you guys how to trim up a long beard.
01:55Now, a lot of the concepts are going to be very similar,
01:58but with a long beard, we started by trimming down the interior.
02:01At this length, I don't want to remove anything.
02:04So we're going to skip to step two, which is the outline.
02:09The outline is just three lines.
02:12It's the top line, the baseline, and the lip line.
02:15So let's start with the baseline
02:16because it's going to have the highest amount of impact.
02:19The baseline of the beard is the line at the bottom
02:22that kind of echoes the shape of your jaw.
02:24One of the things that happens when we first start growing our beards
02:27is that this area keeps growing and gets really, really thick.
02:30And if you notice, when I drop my jaw down here,
02:33you can still see all of the hair in behind.
02:35Seeing the hair in behind is kind of a problem
02:37because it softens the look of your jaw,
02:39and we want that jaw to look strong.
02:41So what we're going to do is we're going to bring this line up
02:43and we're going to make it really nice and clean
02:45so that when you put your neckline down,
02:47it amplifies the shape of the jaw
02:49and gives it a stronger lineation.
02:51We're going to start from the corner of the jaw
02:53and we're going to make a straight line down
02:55to the top of the Adam's apple, just like this.
03:07You can see we've got that nice, strong line down now.
03:10We want to make sure we don't take that line up too high
03:12to the corner, this little corner of the jawline
03:14because what happens is when you turn your head,
03:17that line lifts up and it sneaks up over top of your jaw
03:20and that's what we call a chin strap.
03:22It's not that flattering.
03:23Now this hair down here has a tendency to grow upwards.
03:26To make sure that we don't just scrape this off
03:29using our trimmer,
03:30I'm going to turn it to the softer position here
03:32and I'm going to work upwards into the line we created
03:34to remove all that nasty neck fluff.
03:37And I'm just going to take my soft brush
03:42and I'm going to remove any shrapnel,
03:44making sure I get everything that's attached
03:46and right back here especially.
03:52All right.
03:53Now you can already see a difference from side to side.
03:56Now let's get the other side
03:57and make sure we get that nice and even.
03:59So I'm going to tilt my chin back,
04:00go from the corner of my jaw.
04:02Now you'll notice on that side,
04:08I started a little lower and work my way higher.
04:10And the reason why I do that
04:12is because I want to make sure it's balanced on both sides.
04:14So on the second side,
04:16I usually start a little lower,
04:17I check to make sure it's balanced
04:19and then I move it up as I need to.
04:27Now the easiest way to make sure the line is straight and clean
04:29is just tilt your neck back and have a look.
04:32See if there's anything sticking out
04:34or any little bump.
04:39Now that line should descend slightly.
04:41So it's going to start up high
04:42and drop to a little bit lower,
04:44just like your jaw does.
04:45What our goal for this line is,
04:47as we grow our beard out,
04:48is to be able to bring this lower and lower and lower
04:51to match the front length of our beard.
04:54The big key here is that you don't want to see
04:56any hair growing on the neck behind the jawline
04:58because once we remove that,
05:00it creates a stronger, more amplified jaw.
05:03The next line we need to work on is our top line.
05:06A lot of guys don't pay attention to this,
05:08but the top line is how we're going to edge out
05:10where the beard interacts with the face.
05:13You have two options for this line.
05:15You can either make something that is really straight
05:16and linear,
05:17or you can make something that is slightly curved.
05:19And that really depends on your face shape.
05:21When you have a narrow face shape,
05:23you want to work with something
05:24that is a little bit more of a curved line.
05:26If you have a fuller face shape,
05:28you want to try and keep that square
05:29because it gives a slightly leaner appearance.
05:32I think I'm going to go with a curved line.
05:34Here's the best way to create a curved line.
05:36We're going to use our trimmer inverted
05:37to punch a line in,
05:38and I'm going to stretch the skin up higher like this.
05:41By stretching that skin and putting a straight line in,
05:44when I relax that skin,
05:46it's going to have a slight bend to it.
05:47So you can see once we release that,
05:54it has a slightly soft bend,
05:56and that beard looks a lot better groomed.
05:59Now I'm going to remove the hair on top of my cheeks
06:01with my trimmer,
06:03and I'm going to repeat this on the opposite side.
06:13That's looking a lot better already.
06:14Now what we need to do
06:17is keep these pesky little hairs out of my mouth.
06:19They're really short,
06:21and this is maybe something that you won't need to do
06:22for the first even six to eight weeks,
06:25but eventually that mustache
06:26is going to start to overtake those lips.
06:28For this part,
06:29I usually like to just take my trimmer
06:30and just clean my lip line
06:32to make sure that when I'm drinking coffee out of a mug,
06:35it doesn't go all down my white t-shirts.
06:36Now the trick to this line
06:43is that it's slightly peaked in the center.
06:46You don't want to just come in
06:47and hammer a straight line across.
06:49What you want to do
06:50is you want to angle from the center
06:51down towards the corner of your mouth,
06:53and again from this side
06:54down towards the corner of your mouth.
06:56You can do that by taking your trimmer
06:57and angling it
06:58before you press in
07:00to remove those hairs.
07:01Now we don't need to do much
07:05to the interior at this point,
07:06and you can see that as far as beards go,
07:09it's looking a whole lot better.
07:10We're just going to go over our neck and cheeks
07:11using the shaver
07:12or using whatever razor
07:14that you want to use to remove the hairs.
07:16This is just one more element
07:17of making it look extra clean and polished,
07:20and this is a really good way
07:21for you to be able to do the maintenance
07:22that this is going to require
07:24for the next few weeks.
07:25You really want to just keep this area clean
07:27and free from hairs.
07:28So I'm going to take my shaver,
07:30and I'm just going to go over that
07:30and clean it up.
07:46And voila,
07:47you've crafted for yourself
07:49a fine-looking beard.
07:51Now if you really want to crisp this up
07:52or you want to take this a little sharper,
07:54use things like powders or color,
07:56go visit your barber.
07:58He's going to have great advice
07:59on how you're going to be able
08:00to make this look sharp on the long term.
08:04The last thing you want to do
08:05once you've shaved things down to the wood,
08:07especially if you've shaved with a straight razor
08:09or any kind of a safety razor,
08:11is you want to make sure
08:11your skincare is on point.
08:13For the next little while,
08:14you want to make sure
08:14that you're using a good moisturizing wash.
08:17And for those of you
08:18that shave and outline your beard every day,
08:20I really suggest using
08:22some sort of an aftershave balm.
08:23I don't love the idea
08:25of using liquid aftershaves
08:26when you have facial hair
08:27because it tends to dry them out
08:29and it actually makes things itchier.
08:31But what I like to do
08:32is I like to use
08:33some sort of a cream aftershave
08:34or a cream balm,
08:36which is more moisturizing
08:37and is better
08:38because it actually moisturizes the beard.
08:44Also at this point,
08:45I would really suggest
08:46staying away from beard oil.
08:48Beard oil is meant
08:49for longer, fuller beards.
08:51It's really about conditioning the hair
08:53with a little bit of moisture
08:54for the skin as well.
08:55The more oil you add to it at this point,
08:57the more you're going to increase
08:59the likelihood
08:59of having oily skin or breakouts.
09:02So try and stay away from that.
09:04I suggest using some sort of a beard balm
09:06just to get rid of those little flyaway guys
09:08or the ones that are starting to stick out.
09:11So take a little bit of that just to finish.
09:13Try and stay away from oil-based ones.
09:16I like things that are a little bit more of a wax
09:17and a matte finish
09:18because I don't like it
09:19when my beard looks shiny.
09:20And I'm just going to work that on
09:21just to take away
09:23any of the little flyaways
09:24or the guys that are sticking out
09:25and not looking too clean.
09:28If you're watching along
09:29and you're still not convinced
09:31and you don't see the value
09:32in growing a beard,
09:34let me be the first to tell you,
09:36a beard can change your life.
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