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00:00We're in perhaps the most historic and certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in, Istanbul.
00:07Thanks for joining us.
01:00We'll marvel at mosques, peruse the Grand Bazaar, be wowed by classic carpets, admire artisans at work, and learn why the dervish whirls.
01:12We'll sail the Bosphorus, eat fresh fish off the boat, be tempted by honey-drenched baklava, buy some exquisite silk, and grab some ice cream.
01:25Or not.
01:27We'll take a side trip to Asia and lose ourselves in a sea of its people as we celebrate this vast and complex city.
01:37Turkey bridges Europe and Asia.
01:40Its largest city, Istanbul, straddles the Bosphorus Strait, part of the cities in Europe and part in Asia.
01:46The Golden Horn Inlet, long a strategic harbor, is crossed by the Galata Bridge.
01:52It connects the bustling new town and the old town with its fabled palace and mosques.
01:58After a cruise on the Bosphorus, we'll explore the Grand Bazaar, wander down the Istiklal Kadessi Boulevard, then finish in Asia with a visit to Uskudar.
02:07Inspiring monuments showcase 2,000 years of Istanbul history.
02:16Its ancient Roman and early Christian Byzantine period, its centuries as the capital of the Muslim Ottoman Empire, and its birth as a modern nation in the 20th century.
02:28While today the city is a vast megalopolis of over 15 million people sprawling along both sides of the Bosphorus, its oldest citizens actually remember when it had only a million people.
02:44In other words, the vast majority of the city is new.
02:48And its historic points of interest are mostly corralled into a relatively compact old center.
03:01The starting point for many travelers is Istanbul's state-of-the-art cruise terminal, with its ingenious collapsible walls.
03:08It adds to the city's population whenever ships are in port.
03:12A far-sighted infrastructure investment, all the buses and taxis are underground to efficiently move the crowds.
03:21In season, massive cruise ships pour thousands of tourists smoothly into the city for a busy day of sightseeing and shopping.
03:31When ships sail, the security and customs walls fold down,
03:35and Galataport transforms into a delightful public promenade, 600 yards long.
03:42Late in the day, the people watching mixes with the commotion of the busy harbor to make it a Turkish paseo like none other.
03:52The Bosphorus is churning with boat traffic of all sorts.
03:56This narrow and strategic strait is a bottleneck, busy with freighters.
04:00Including lots of Ukrainian and Russian ships, since this is the only route between ports on the Black Sea and the Mediterranean.
04:09And tourist boats doing their maritime do-si-do dance around the serious cargo ships and ferries.
04:21For more of a mini-cruise, it's easy to hop a sightseeing boat for a relaxing sail up the Bosporus.
04:26Yes, an intercontinental cruise.
04:30It's a chance to see Istanbul from the water and get the lay of the land,
04:35with Europe on one side and Asia on the other.
04:38Small historic towns marked by their minarets are now engulfed in the sprawl of modern Istanbul.
04:45The boat passes an Ottoman emperor's hunting lodge, palaces of the nobility,
04:49and homes of wealthy locals, locals who can afford the Bosphorus waterfront,
04:56some of the priciest real estate in all of Turkey.
05:00And anyone can enjoy the inviting beachfront parks.
05:04The dramatic Bosphorus Bridge was the first bridge ever to span two continents.
05:09And the Rumeli Fortress was built by the Ottomans five centuries ago.
05:16Back in the old center, the Galata Bridge spans the strategic inlet called the Golden Horn.
05:22For centuries, this easy-to-defend bay provided the city a protected harbor.
05:27A thousand years ago, long before there was a bridge here, a mighty chain was stretched across the mouth of this inlet.
05:36This gave the Byzantine Empire its safest harbor, which provided the city a critical key to both trade and military power.
05:44While just a few years ago its shoreline was an industrial wasteland,
05:49today the Golden Horn is cleaned up and lined by inviting parks.
05:52After a determined effort by the city and lots of investment,
05:58the people of Istanbul now share a delightfully green and welcoming people zone,
06:03the Golden Horn.
06:07Back at the Galata Bridge, for fast food Istanbul-style,
06:11you can grab a fish wedge just off the boat.
06:14Mackerel, fresh from the guys who caught it,
06:16at one of the venerable, and very tipsy, fish-and-bread boats.
06:22And as the sun sets, on the bridge you can enjoy panoramic views of Istanbul's old town,
06:29an iconic place for more fast fish,
06:33or a nice dinner,
06:38with a view of the harbor action.
06:41There are lots of tourists in Istanbul,
06:46and it's interesting to note that about half of them come from other Muslim countries.
07:00While Istanbul is full of iconic sights,
07:02there's one that seems to be on every traveler's list,
07:06the Grand Bazaar.
07:14In many ways, Istanbul's Grand Bazaar remains much as it was centuries ago,
07:20enchanting and perplexing visitors with its maze-like network of lanes
07:23hiding more than 4,000 colorful shops, artisans at work, and tiny eateries.
07:32Despite all the tourists and knick-knacks, the heart of the Grand Bazaar still beats,
07:37giving the observant visitor an unforgettable memory.
07:41Thailand! Thailand!
07:45In its day, this labyrinthine warren of shops under fine arches
07:49was the world trade center for the entire Ottoman Empire,
07:54locked down and guarded by more than 100 soldiers every night.
07:58While today's main drag is touristy,
08:01do what you can to imagine the atmosphere here centuries ago
08:05during Silk Road times,
08:07the barrage on the senses,
08:09exotic spices,
08:11busy merchants,
08:13convivial tea breaks,
08:15and thirsty shoppers.
08:17The market is vast,
08:19and you can still escape the tourist zones
08:21to discover some authentic nooks and crannies.
08:24Surprises await in the low-rent fringes.
08:27A commotion of shouting marks the bazaar's poor man's Wall Street.
08:33These currency brokers are frantically swapping fortunes of euros, dollars,
08:38and Turkish lira for their clients.
08:41Others keep their fortunes in gold.
08:43The many jewelry shops are a reminder that Turks love gold for more than just its beauty and allure.
08:50Traditionally, it's considered a practical and tangible place to store their wealth.
08:55And much of that gold may be recycled.
08:58Around the corner surrounding a humble courtyard,
09:01sooty smiths labor over furnaces.
09:04They're melting gold trimmings from nearby jewelers' workshops
09:07back into a pure and more usable form.
09:11For over 20 years, I've been visiting Ayhan.
09:17His skillful techniques have changed little through the generations as he works his trade.
09:23Gold, gold.
09:25And with that gold, you can buy a fine Turkish carpet.
09:29Shops can come with a vast inventory, offering a warp-and-weft fantasy of options.
09:39Enjoy a colorful demonstration.
09:41Here I have four amazing art pieces that are totally different categories.
09:46It's like a mother language. Each region of Turkey, we have different styles.
09:49But be attracted not by aggressive sales pitches, but by merchants who celebrate this rich, artistic heritage.
09:58So, the other name of those silk collection rugs are flying Turkish rug.
10:09With the fall of Christian Byzantium and the rise of the Muslim Ottomans,
10:13grand mosques shaped the city's skyline.
10:17And Suleimania is the finest in town.
10:24This soothing, restrained, yet magnificent house of worship
10:27was built by the great 16th-century architect Sinan for his sultan, Suleiman.
10:35Although less colorful and less glamorous than some of Istanbul's other mosques,
10:39this mosque is bigger, older, and considered the masterpiece of Ottoman architecture.
10:48The tranquil interior is decorated in pastel hues and stained glass.
10:55Its vast expanse, with no interior support, was a marvel in its day.
11:00And visiting Turks make a point to visit the elaborate tomb of the Sultan Suleiman,
11:05whose nickname was the Magnificent.
11:15The Muslim faith is as varied as the Christian faith.
11:18Some groups are more orthodox and conservative,
11:22and others more progressive,
11:25like this congregation of mystic Sufi dervishes,
11:28which welcomes women to take leadership roles.
11:30While some worship in grand mosques,
11:34others gather in a more intimate space like this,
11:37where musicians set the mood.
11:40The leader guides the congregation in prayer,
11:45and slowly the dervishes blossom
11:48into a state where they're ready to whirl.
11:50Dervishes are like monks,
11:55inspired by the mystic 13th century poet Mevlana,
11:59also known as Rumi.
12:01Not all dervishes whirl,
12:04but all whirlers are dervishes.
12:09With one foot planted in their community, their family,
12:12and the other foot dancing around and around,
12:15celebrating the diversity of God's great creation,
12:17they whirl themselves into a meditative trance.
12:25In this mesmerizing form of prayer,
12:27the dervish contemplates how everything in the universe whirls,
12:31from the smallest particles to the earth and beyond.
12:39By whirling, the dervish goes with the cosmic flow.
12:43Mevlana's teaching is all about love and finding that elusive oneness.
12:53With one hand symbolically reaching up to their heavenly creator,
12:58and the other like a fountain showering that love on all of creation,
13:03the dervish meditates on how they can be a conduit of God's love.
13:07To get a fuller appreciation for Istanbul, it's important to leave the old town
13:26and explore the lively, more modern neighborhoods.
13:28For the visitor, Istanbul's central tram line laces together the most interesting sightseeing areas.
13:36While often packed, it zips directly through the middle of town fast, unaffected by the frequent traffic jams.
13:44My friend and co-author of our Istanbul guidebook, Lali Sermon Aran,
13:52is joining us as we ride over the Gulada Bridge.
13:55Rather than fighting traffic, Lali knows to stick with the tram as we head into the new town,
14:02and the place where everyone seems to be heading,
14:05Taksim Square, Istanbul's contemporary heart.
14:08Taksim Square is a major transportation hub and gives us a good taste of modern Istanbul.
14:19The traffic circles a statue that celebrates the father of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk.
14:27If Turkey is Western-looking today, you can thank this man.
14:32In the 19th century, the Ottoman Empire was in a state of decline.
14:36Its nickname, the Sick Man of Europe.
14:39Following Germany in World War I and therefore losing, the decrepit old empire was swept away.
14:45And from its remnants arose the modern Republic of Turkey, founded in 1923 by Ataturk.
14:52The monument shows the two sides of Ataturk, the military hero of the War of Independence,
14:58and civilian Ataturk, the first president of modern Turkey.
15:02surrounded by figures representing the proclamation of the Republic.
15:10Nearby, a colorful trolley travels the length of the city's main shopping boulevard,
15:15Istiklant Cadessi, or Independent Street.
15:19Offering a parade of local culture, it was born after a devastating fire in 1870.
15:25The Ottoman government took the opportunity to rebuild the area as a showpiece of the European style.
15:33The message? Look west.
15:36The fine old architecture is a reminder that this street was home to the city's Europe-oriented elite back in the 19th century.
15:43Even today, Istanbul's churches and foreign consulates are in this district.
15:50It's just teeming with people.
15:52I love to lose myself in this river of humanity.
15:56And it's lined with shopping temptations.
16:02This fine shop sells silk scarves, made in Turkey, of course.
16:07Tulip is the Turkish one.
16:10That's great. This pattern is so beautiful.
16:13Turks know how to spiff up their look with a scarf, around the neck or as a head covering.
16:20And if you want to go to the mosque, which scarf would you wear and how would you wear it?
16:23If I want to ask, I wear the long one.
16:26Uh-huh.
16:27Like this.
16:29It's enough for me.
16:30Like this.
16:32So you say, enough for you.
16:33Every woman will choose how much modesty?
16:35Of course, of course.
16:36If she's religious, also she can wear like this in square one, for example.
16:44If she's very religious?
16:46Yeah, yeah.
16:47She can put a pin here.
16:50Then she do it like this.
16:53She can put it here.
16:54So this is an accessory to cover the hair?
16:56Yes.
16:57So true to the culture and easy to pack, a silk scarf makes a nice souvenir.
17:08And the street offers an enticing parade of taste treats.
17:11Doner means revolving, and you know why, when tempted by a doner kebab.
17:18You can try the sesame rings, called simit, along with your tiny Turkish vocabulary.
17:25Bir simit lütven.
17:27One ring, please.
17:32And for a fast meal with no language barrier,
17:35ever-present cafeteria-style restaurants offer a can-can of fresh and traditional Turkish food.
17:44You'll choose from a range of classic Turkish dishes.
17:48I'm having cabbage rolls, lamb chops, and potatoes.
17:54And something I always look forward to, my go-to yogurt drink here in Turkey, Ayrad.
18:00And my favorite dessert, rice pudding, or sütlaç.
18:03But on this street, rice pudding is just the first of many sweet temptations.
18:09Popping into this baklava bakery, it's hard to resist such a festival of honey-soaked delights.
18:17Hey, look at this!
18:19Generations of local chocolate salesmen have worked this little station,
18:23peddling a variety of Turkish treats.
18:25There's a lot of different flavors.
18:26Yes, with hazelnuts and pistachios and dark chocolate and milk chocolate.
18:30Today, Ali loves to give samples.
18:33Okay, this is the pistachio we're tasting now.
18:35This one?
18:36Yes.
18:38What do you like best?
18:40Everything's good.
18:43And to really earn your dessert, try getting some ice cream from this guy.
18:48He's from Karamarmarış, a town in southeast Turkey, famous for its toffee-like ice cream.
19:00While delicious, it doesn't come easy for anyone.
19:04Whooppa-la!
19:05Boy, boy, boy, boy, boy, boy, boy, boy, boy!
19:09I want chocolate!
19:11Ha, ha, ha!
19:13Thank you!
19:14Ah!
19:15Ha, ha, ha, ha!
19:17Ah!
19:19Ah!
19:21Oh!
19:23Ha, ha, ha, ha!
19:25That's nice!
19:26Thank you!
19:27Every day, over a million people in Istanbul commute between Asia and Europe.
19:38Some take the five-minute subway ride through the underwater tunnel,
19:43while others catch a ferry for a more scenic intercontinental commute.
19:50An array of ferries cross the Bosphorus every few minutes and cost less than a buck.
19:54And a memorable way for a tourist to experience this city's urban energy
20:00is to join the locals for a 20-minute cruise to Asian Istanbul.
20:15The city of Üsküdar, on the Asian side, is now a suburb of Istanbul.
20:19While bustling and modern today, it also has a traditional religious feel.
20:27In the Ottoman era, it was the gathering and departure place
20:31for pilgrims and caravans heading to Mecca.
20:36Taking a stroll along its waterfront promenade,
20:39or through its family-friendly parks,
20:41you'll notice a more conservative lifestyle.
20:43Oh, fresh fish!
20:46The marketplace offers a cultural scavenger hunt
20:49and plenty of ways to nibble on even more of Turkey's endless array of taste treats.
20:54Oh, dates! I love dates!
20:56How do you say date in Turkish?
20:58Hurma.
21:00In Ramadan, it's traditional we break the fast with a hurma. Try it!
21:03So this is how we break fast?
21:07Yes.
21:08Happy breakfast!
21:10Oh, yeah. There's a beautiful variety.
21:13So these are grape leaves?
21:15Yes, they are grape leaves, and we use these for rolled grape leaves.
21:19So you buy a whole bundle?
21:22They will sell by the weight.
21:23What would you put inside?
21:24Mainly rice, onion, and seasonings.
21:26Sometimes with meat, too.
21:27Beautiful!
21:28Look at that!
21:29Nice!
21:31Yeah?
21:33Rick, this is Philo. We use this to make börek.
21:35It's pastry.
21:37We use this to make börek.
21:39It's pastry.
21:41We use this to make börek.
21:43It's pastry.
21:44We use this to make börek.
21:46It's pastry.
21:48We use this to make börek.
21:50It's pastry.
21:51It's pastry.
21:52We make it both savory and sweet.
21:55These ones I'm buying, I'm going to use with cheese and parsley, and it will be a savory pastry.
22:01Can I come over?
22:02You're welcome.
22:04It looks so good.
22:06That's the delicacy.
22:09The best fish of Istanbul, turbal.
22:11Turbal.
22:12Yes, it's the finest fish of Bosphorus.
22:14And these are horse mackerel and anchovy, the cheapest protein you can buy.
22:18There.
22:19Yes.
22:20My goodness.
22:21They're beautiful.
22:23I love olives.
22:24Look at so many different varieties.
22:25Different regions, different kinds, and different cures.
22:28Oh, goodness.
22:29Why don't you try one?
22:30Yeah.
22:31And where is this from?
22:32South Turkey, Antioch.
22:34Naturally grown.
22:36It's great to have a selection, you know?
22:39Mmm.
22:40And what is this?
22:41This is from the Sea of Marmara, Edremit.
22:44The Sea of Marmara.
22:47Oh, it's really good.
22:49It's good to mix.
22:50A little of that, a little of that in a little bag.
22:52A little bag.
22:53A little bag.
22:54Can we get this from the Sea of Marmara?
22:55Yes.
22:59Back on the waterfront, I enjoy the view from Asia across the Bosphorus back to Europe,
23:04marveling at this extraordinary city.
23:10Istanbul.
23:11It's fast changing, yet strangely timeless.
23:14Truly one of Europe's great cities.
23:17And for me, it never gets old.
23:21Soaring domes.
23:25Spinning carpets.
23:28Whirling prayers.
23:31Churning harbor.
23:33It's an endless promenade that broadens my perspective.
23:39The city's both rooted in tradition and modern facing,
23:44as it navigates the challenges of today.
23:50The richness of Istanbul's culture, diversity, and heritage
23:54is seen in the faces of its people.
23:58This is today's Turkey.
24:00A melting pot of ethnic groups.
24:03Turk, Kurd, Armenian, Jew, Gypsy, Georgian, Greek, and more.
24:08And styles, from the very traditional to the very latest.
24:20The city remains a crossroads of humanity.
24:27And according to the Turkish proverb,
24:30every guest is a gift from God.
24:33Istanbul bridges east and west.
24:34With a complex weave of modern affluence,
24:35Western secularism,
24:36and traditional Muslim faith,
24:37it's a dynamic city filled with delights.
24:38Thanks for joining us.
24:39I'm Rick Steves.
24:40Until next time, keep on traveling.
24:43Perhaps the most historic and certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.
24:48And certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.
24:50But certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.
24:51And certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.
25:01But certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in.
25:04Istanbul.
25:05Thanks for joining us.
25:06but certainly the most populous city we've ever filmed in,
25:10Istanbul.
25:11Thanks for joining us.
25:12Ah.
25:14Ah.
25:15Ha, ha, ha.
25:17No.
25:18Ha, ha, ha.
25:20Mm.
25:22That's good ice cream.
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