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00:00Merry Christmas!
00:04It's so gorgeous and so festive.
00:07I'm on a Rhine River cruise to experience a real German-style Christmas.
00:12You're so magnificent.
00:15There'll be traditional fun.
00:17Laughing all the way!
00:19Food aplenty.
00:21Sausages for the crew.
00:23And wall-to-wall sparkle.
00:25Look at that!
00:29It's a statement piece, isn't it?
00:32And I intend to soak it up, bring it home and share it all with you too.
00:37Brilliant, I think.
00:48A quick flight from the UK and I'm in Germany.
00:51This country comes alive during the festive season,
00:54with cities and towns hosting nearly 3,000 annual Christmas markets.
01:00So what better way to get in the mood for the festive season
01:04than a cruise through the country where it all began?
01:07From the town famed for its festive fairs, Nuremberg,
01:12our journey takes us to Bamberg to enjoy some seasonal cheer.
01:17We'll then stop in Würzburg and visit Rothenburg,
01:20or as it's known, Christmas Town.
01:22There'll be carols in Miltenburg
01:24before heading to the city I'm told is Germany's Christmas capital, Cologne.
01:29Right, I need to get to the ship before it departs,
01:34but my route through Nuremberg's Winter Market
01:36is throwing up lots of distractions.
01:38This is a particularly foodie market.
01:42It's quite a dangerous place for me though,
01:44because it smells amazing and I want to eat everything.
01:48It's that unmistakable smell, isn't it?
01:51Spices and cinnamon and beautiful, delicious, gorgeous sugary snacks.
01:56Oh, my God!
01:57I've become quite overwhelmed at Christmas,
01:59mainly because my stomach goes,
02:01eat everything!
02:05In Germany, food sellers and toy makers have been coming together
02:08to trade and share the joy of Christmas since the mid-17th century.
02:13And with time against me, I'm trying a German classic
02:18and testing my language skills.
02:21Hello!
02:22Eh, three Nuremberg in Brotten.
02:26Cooked over a Beechwood fire,
02:28these spicy sausages have been enjoyed
02:30as a pre-Christmas treat for over 700 years.
02:36Now, they're special sausages.
02:38They're Nuremberg sausages, so they're small.
02:40Now, if you've ever seen like a German sausage,
02:42they tend to be quite a bit...
02:44Welcome to Sausage Talk with Susan Kalman!
02:46Never thought I'd be doing this!
02:48German sausages!
02:50They tend to be quite large sausages!
02:53The more you see them in sausage, the stranger...
02:56Sausage!
02:57Keep it together, Kalman.
02:58You're not in a carry-on film.
03:00Now, that's lovely.
03:03And...
03:06Honestly,
03:08I've had...
03:10German sausages before,
03:12and I have found that they're too much for me.
03:17I prefer a delicate sausage.
03:20Delicate little Nuremberg sausages.
03:22And that is the last time I'm going to say the word sausage.
03:25Ever.
03:26Yum-yum.
03:30I could honestly eat my way around this market,
03:33but my ship is waiting,
03:34and there's just one more thing I'd like to do before we set sail.
03:39Ein...
03:40Dankeschön!
03:42To get the best view of the market in the city,
03:44I'm heading for a ride on this 38-metre-high ferris wheel.
03:50Oh!
03:51I'm greeted by some dancing raccoons.
03:54Do you know,
03:55it doesn't matter what animal it is,
03:56stick a Santa hat on it,
03:57and it's adorable!
04:00And who wouldn't want a photo next to these guys?
04:03Do you want me to take it?
04:04Yeah.
04:05OK.
04:06No problem at all.
04:08OK, here we go.
04:09Everyone ready?
04:10There you go.
04:11There you go.
04:12No problem at all.
04:13No problem at all.
04:15I wonder if they'll be joining the cruise later.
04:17First, the ferris wheel.
04:20Five times round.
04:22Oh, yeah, yeah, la, la, la, la.
04:26Ah, yes, the fear of heights is still strong in me.
04:29Up we go.
04:32But I won't let it come between me and the magic of Christmas.
04:36You get such a beautiful view of the Christmas market.
04:39It's a lovely thing and the skyline of Nuremberg,
04:42which is such a buzzing, incredible place.
04:49The lights of the trees and everyone bustling around,
04:51it really is so gorgeous and so festive.
04:55This market is the perfect place to kick off my search for traditional Christmas fun.
05:01But it's now time to hot-foot it to the harbour and join my cruise.
05:05My fellow passengers, 180 of them, have already checked in and the welcome drinks are flowing
05:15aboard our rather stylish river ship, Vega.
05:18Oh, it looks absolutely glorious.
05:21It's a bit chilly down by the river and that looks like a warm cocoon of Christmas loveliness.
05:27Let's get on board.
05:29Hurry up, Calman.
05:30It looks like I'm fashionably late for the sail away party.
05:33Hello.
05:34Oh, hello, Susan.
05:35Merry Christmas.
05:36Nice to see you.
05:37Merry Christmas.
05:38On tiptoes.
05:39Nice to see you.
05:40Welcome on board.
05:41Beautiful travel model, Vega.
05:43I offer you a glass of wine.
05:44There you go.
05:45Sparkling bubbles.
05:46Enjoy.
05:47We have to worry because Captain wants to sail.
05:49Where's the best place for sail away?
05:51Oh, well, you know, up over the stairs over there like that you go to the sun deck.
05:54Top deck.
05:55Beautiful view.
05:56Sun deck.
05:57That's it.
05:58Well, rain deck.
05:59Dark deck.
06:00Christmas deck.
06:01Christmas deck.
06:02Lovely.
06:04And I'll see you later on.
06:05My pleasure.
06:06Thank you very much.
06:07Toodle-oo.
06:08Most of the passengers are settling into the party in the main lounge, but I'm joining
06:13a few brave souls out on deck for the sail away.
06:16Hello, you two.
06:17Hello.
06:18Sorry to interrupt.
06:19I'm Susan.
06:20What's your name?
06:21Margaret.
06:22And Keith.
06:23Lovely to meet you.
06:24And you.
06:25I thought I'd share a wee glass of champagne with you.
06:27Yeah.
06:28Before we set off.
06:29Cheers.
06:31And here's a cheers to Christmas from all of us, yes?
06:32Cheers.
06:33Cheers.
06:34Cheers.
06:35I've made it and I have a feeling in my Christmas stocking we're going to have a fabulous cruise.
06:40And we're off.
06:46Coming up, a traditional smoked beer is put to the taste test.
06:50I'm having no trouble getting it down.
06:52Cheers.
06:53Cheers.
06:54And a Christmas competition gets controversial.
06:56Not cheating.
06:57There's a lot at stake here, Susan.
06:59Take care, Susan.
07:00I'm on a Christmas adventure through Germany in search of traditional fun, food and festivities.
07:20We're sailing from Nuremberg towards the town of Banburg, giving me time to settle in on board.
07:30I'm not quite ready.
07:31Can you just give me a minute?
07:32Okay, thanks.
07:33I'm just adding a few festive touches to my boudoir.
07:37Decorate, decorate, decorate.
07:39Oh, hi.
07:40Hi.
07:41Come on in.
07:42Let me show you what I've done with the place.
07:44I've brought a few decorations from home just to make my cabin a bit more festive.
07:53I've got here my outfit for later.
07:55Bathrobe, tinsel, Santa hat.
07:57I know how to party.
07:58My favourite thing, though, is this little Christmas tree, quite dainty.
08:04Now, I can't have a Christmas tree at home because I have seven cats who launch themselves at it.
08:11But for me, some of my favourite memories as a child were when my dad brought home the Christmas tree
08:16and we'd all decorate it and it's wonderful.
08:19And, as the Germans were the first to decorate trees back in the 16th century,
08:24I thought I should honour this tradition in my own small way.
08:28This is like the cover of my Christmas album I'll release sometime.
08:31Hold on, I'll do the face as well.
08:36And if that doesn't say Christmas number one, I don't know what does.
08:43After a wonderful sleep in my very own grotto, we've arrived at our first port of call.
08:49Bamberg.
08:50This Bavarian city is known as Little Venice, with buildings dotted around the River Regnitz.
08:57It is a beautiful day and it is a beautiful place.
09:00It's sort of, if you think of your quintessential German town, this is it.
09:06I've always found a really good way to get to know a place and the people on the ship is a walking tour.
09:13So I've got my diddly dot that you put in here so you can hear the tour guide.
09:17And, as always, I can see my group there because I'm a bit late.
09:22And if you have any questions, don't hesitate and ask me.
09:26Our guide Horst had put on a Santa hat for us to follow as he leads us through these enchanting medieval streets.
09:32There's a beautiful range of colours here.
09:36They're very subtle, slightly pastel.
09:39If you look there, it's not so much like a box of chocolates.
09:44It's much more dignified than that.
09:46It's like a classy sweet shop.
09:52It's like a scene from a Christmas card, showcasing the magical charm of this UNESCO World Heritage town.
09:59The tour guide was telling us that, unlike some of the other places around here in the Second World War, it wasn't touched, it wasn't damaged by bombing.
10:08And as a result, it's sort of perfectly preserved in time.
10:12And these surprises like this fresco, my goodness, it is absolutely stunning.
10:19You know in your head when you think, I want to come somewhere absolutely perfect for Christmas?
10:24This is it.
10:25A few of my fellow cruise companions from Down Under have come on the tour, determined to enjoy the magic of the season, German style.
10:36Are you enjoying a bit of chill?
10:38Yes.
10:39Yes.
10:40I don't mind the cold.
10:41You never have a cold Christmas, do you?
10:42No.
10:43We go to the beach at Christmas.
10:44Do you?
10:45Do you do that?
10:46Yeah, we do.
10:47We don't even go to the beach in summer.
10:48That's an extraordinary thing.
10:49As we head to the Cathedral Square, I'm wondering if her group has anything in common when it comes to the festive feast.
10:56What do you have for your Christmas dinner?
10:58We at home, we usually have fish.
11:00Fish for Christmas?
11:01Yeah.
11:02Fish for Christmas?
11:03Yeah.
11:04And some people have goose.
11:06Goose.
11:07And some people have two small sausages.
11:12Very simple.
11:13Sausage, fish or goose?
11:15What do you have in Australia for Christmas dinner?
11:17Seafood.
11:18Pruns and ham.
11:19Mud crab.
11:20Pruns and ham.
11:21Yes.
11:22And a beer.
11:23And a beer.
11:24Turkey.
11:25Turkey all the way.
11:26That's all we have.
11:27Turkey and pavlova.
11:28One thing we do all agree on is the magic of beautiful Bamberg at this time of year.
11:34You can see 800 years of European architecture.
11:39The cathedral, which is a combination between late Romanesque and early Gothic style.
11:45This is Renaissance style.
11:47Yeah.
11:48And this is Baroque style.
11:49Gosh.
11:50I'm not sure I've ever visited a town with so much impressive architecture from every
11:57era.
11:58This place is, how I would categorize it, an oh wow place.
12:04Oh wow.
12:05Every time you walk around a corner you go wow, because there's twisty winding streets, which
12:13gives you a surprise.
12:15I am bowled over, absolutely bowled over by Bamberg.
12:25Ladies and gentlemen, this is the end of our guided tour.
12:28I hope it was a little bit interesting and enjoyable.
12:33Wonderful.
12:34And now if you want you can go to the shopping area or you can also taste the smoked beer.
12:39Hands up for shopping.
12:41Hands up for smoked beer brewery.
12:43Right, I'm now in charge.
12:45Watch this.
12:46This is my tour guide.
12:47Everyone follow the hands.
12:48Everyone follow the hands.
12:50As I've taken over the role of tour guide, I'm delighted to learn that Bamberg is also
12:57known as Bierstadt or Beer Town because of its 13 breweries.
13:02Right, I'm going to go and get the drinks in.
13:05Smoked beer all round.
13:07I've brought a group to a 17th century inn called Schlenkerle.
13:11Try saying that after a few German beers.
13:14Hello.
13:15Hey.
13:16I would like five of your finest pints of smoked beer.
13:20Yes.
13:21But before you do that actually, what is smoked beer?
13:24The malt is kilned over an open fire and hence gets a smoky, a rotten flavour.
13:28Oh, so there's actual fire and smoke?
13:30Because I've never heard of smoked beer before.
13:32Is it a speciality of round here?
13:34It's a speciality here in Bamberg.
13:36It used to be available all around the globe.
13:38But in England, 400 years ago, they invented modern beer without smoke flavour.
13:43Yes.
13:44But we were a little bit stubborn here and we kept the old style.
13:46And so you have a sip of beer history when you drink Schlenkerle.
13:51Matthias is the sixth generation of brewers to live in this unique building,
13:55where they've smoked malts over an open fire to give the beer its special taste since 1678.
14:02How are we all feeling?
14:04Fantastic.
14:05I'm excited.
14:06Are you?
14:07I'm a bit nervous.
14:08Cheers, everyone.
14:09Cheers.
14:10Cheers, first of all.
14:12OK.
14:13You can certainly taste the smoke.
14:17Yeah.
14:18It grows on you.
14:19It does.
14:20Actually, sort of like a stout.
14:22We'll have a second taste.
14:23You've got to have two tastes.
14:26And three.
14:27Do you know what?
14:28I thought I was going to absolutely hate that.
14:30I actually quite like it.
14:31I do too.
14:32I thought I would hate it as well.
14:34It's actually quite nice.
14:35And you don't drink beer?
14:36And I don't drink beer.
14:37What do you think?
14:38Do you enjoy it?
14:39No trouble getting it down.
14:43We're not having three pints, by the way, because the ship leaves in approximately half an hour.
14:48Shall we carry on?
14:49Cheers again, though.
14:50What a pleasure it's been.
14:51Chin, chin, chin.
14:57My final task as self-appointed guide is to get me and my tour chums safely back on board
15:03before we set sail.
15:05Easy does it.
15:07Oh, my goodness.
15:08Thank you very much indeed.
15:09Cheers.
15:10Oh, it's warm.
15:11Oh.
15:12From Bamberg, we travel west along the main river to Wurtzberg to top up on festive cheer
15:17in Rothenberg, known as Christmastown.
15:20And after our time in Miltenberg, we sail through the Rhine Gorge before finishing our Christmas
15:25extravaganza in Cologne.
15:28Last year, 700,000 people travelled across Germany by river cruise, and it's certainly a wonderful
15:37way to see the sights.
15:38We're sailing just now, so it's probably an appropriate time to give you a wee tour of
15:42the ship.
15:43Come on, let me show you around.
15:45There are only four decks on this ship, yet they've managed to squeeze in everything you
15:50could need.
15:51Reception.
15:52If you've got any questions, this is where you come to.
15:55A little interesting here.
15:57I've been watching this grow.
15:58This is the lost and found table.
16:01As the cruise is developing, more and more things are being added.
16:05If you've lost a chapstick, it's here.
16:10There's a small but perfectly formed gym on board, and if you fancy being sociable, you
16:15head to deck three.
16:17This is the lounge where a lot of people congregate, so you can get a coffee or a tea 24 hours a
16:23day.
16:24I did that with my mind.
16:28This is one of the most unexpected things I've ever encountered on a river cruise.
16:35An Irish pub.
16:37It's a lovely cosy little place to sit and have a drink in the evening if you don't fancy
16:42the lounge.
16:43They also have a happy hour.
16:45It's amazing what you can fit into just 135 metres of river cruise ship.
16:51This is the sun stroke whatever weather it is deck.
16:57Absolutely lovely.
16:58It doesn't matter what kind of ship I'm on.
17:00I love going to the front because you feel like you're moving with the water.
17:06But there's no time to stand around admiring the view.
17:11I'm late for a very festive on board activity hosted by Gunther, the cruise director.
17:16Hello everybody.
17:17Merry Christmas.
17:18Yes.
17:19Yes.
17:20I'm going to try a very traditional Christmas craft, decorating a gingerbread house.
17:25Folks, you've got ten minutes.
17:26You've got all the ingredients over there.
17:29Make it as beautiful as you ever can.
17:31Fantastic prizes for the winner.
17:33But I will tell you that later.
17:35Go on.
17:36Bang.
17:37Right there.
17:38But I wasn't expecting it to be a competition.
17:42See what's happened there is that everyone's just gone straight in.
17:49She's standing up.
17:50This is what happens isn't it?
17:52So much for a relaxing activity, being against the clock has instantly unleashed my competitive streak.
17:59Just feeling under a lot of pressure.
18:03This will help.
18:05There's been a right severe weather warning over this house isn't there?
18:10Just to let you know you're halfway, five minutes past, five minutes to go.
18:14Five minutes to go.
18:15And it looks like my competitors are storming ahead with their designs.
18:22Don't you copy?
18:24I'm not copying.
18:25I'm not copying.
18:26She's copying.
18:27She's cheating.
18:28I'm not copying.
18:29I'm not cheating.
18:30Can a woman not admire another woman's work in a gingerbread house?
18:32There's a lot at stake here, Susan.
18:35What I appear to be doing there is drawing drain pipes.
18:38As if I'm incredibly interested in the infrastructure of this gingerbread house.
18:42That's the downpipes.
18:44Leading into the main drainage system.
18:47But one team is crumbling under pressure.
18:51Oh no!
18:52The structural integrity of the gingerbread house has failed!
18:54Time is up!
18:55Time is up!
18:56Would you agree?
18:57No!
18:58While I enjoy the leftovers, Judge Gunther is casting a critical eye over our efforts.
19:06Yeah, very well.
19:08Very well.
19:09Very colourful.
19:10Yes.
19:11Is this the idea that they are like laying down?
19:13Yes.
19:14All right.
19:15Fair enough.
19:16Susan.
19:17Yes.
19:18Minimalistic.
19:19I have the impression that you ate more of the cookies.
19:20I did it!
19:21I mean...
19:22Anyhow.
19:23All right.
19:24I'm going to touch.
19:25Try as neutral as I can be.
19:27I've not been this nervous since the Strictly dance-off.
19:31I think you deserve the prize.
19:35OK, I'll give it to the ladies.
19:39It's a dream gingerbread house.
19:40I did not mention yet the prize.
19:43The prize is that you get to take it home and eat it all.
19:47Enjoy!
19:48Merry Christmas!
19:50The gingerbread house eating competition will have to wait.
19:53Our ship is arriving into Wurtzburg and there's only one trip on today's festive agenda that's caught my eye.
20:01I'm going today to a place that has the nickname of Christmas Town.
20:05So, I mean, how appropriate is that?
20:07And also, just so you know, my better half's nickname for me is Pudding.
20:12So, I've got a Christmas Pudding hat.
20:14Oh, couldn't get more festive if it tried.
20:23And it looks like my fellow cruisers on today's trip also got the Christmas outfit memo.
20:29Well, we're off to Christmas Town. Are you excited?
20:32Yay!
20:33Absolutely!
20:35I can't wait to discover how Rothenberg earned the name Christmas Town.
20:40And my festive chums are almost as excited as me.
20:44I can't tell you how much I love Christmas.
20:47It's my favourite time of year.
20:48Absolutely.
20:49I think it's a time to see the family.
20:51Yeah.
20:52The children open their presents.
20:53Yeah.
20:54It's just great fun.
20:55Well, have a nice time at Christmas Town.
20:56I'd like to get blue vine.
20:58Blue vine?
20:59Yes.
21:00And mugs that are in the shape of a boot.
21:02If we don't get one for you today, it will be my mission to ensure that you get that.
21:07Right?
21:08Here's a happy Christmas and let's enjoy Christmas Town, everybody.
21:11Yay!
21:12Coming up, Christmas Town is my happy place.
21:17The decorations.
21:18That's what it is.
21:19I love it.
21:20And the gift that keeps on giving.
21:22It's about dreaming and it's lovely to share it.
21:26Today, me and my crew's companions have arrived in Rothenburg to find out why it's known as Christmas Town.
21:42I always buy a decoration for my mum, so on her Christmas tree there are baubles from everywhere I've been.
21:49It looks just like the set of your favourite Christmas movie, a picture-perfect medieval town.
21:55Let's go.
21:56Right?
21:57Everybody in?
21:58Everybody in?
21:59Everybody in?
22:00And the secret to the town's festive nickname lies behind the facade of this beautiful old building.
22:08Oh, wow!
22:09Oh my God!
22:10That tree's amazing, isn't it?
22:11I don't think I've ever been in a Christmas shop this remarkable.
22:23One of the reasons it's called Christmas Town is this museum and shop.
22:27And it's open all year round for all your Christmas requirements.
22:32And it is magnificent.
22:34It's like a combination of things you can buy but also the story of Christmas.
22:39Do you know the thing about Christmas that's amazing?
22:41It's the decorations.
22:42And, of course, the feeling of love and peace and everything else.
22:45And the decorations!
22:46That's what it is.
22:47I love it.
22:48It just goes on and on.
22:55Look at that!
22:58That's the kind of tree that you imagine seeing, you know, in New York City.
23:02New York City!
23:03Outside the Rockefeller Center or something.
23:05It is incredible.
23:08Every inch of this place is covered with Christmas joy.
23:12From the more unusual to the absolute classics.
23:15I mean, it's an iconic symbol, isn't it?
23:18The nutcracker.
23:19And that's just about the biggest one I can possibly imagine.
23:22I mean, it's a statement piece, isn't it?
23:25It's a statement.
23:27I used to have nightmares about nutcrackers after my mum made me crack 5,642 of them one Christmas.
23:34You can make them move!
23:35I love the way you found that out!
23:38Susan, Susan, you can make the mouth move!
23:40You can make the mouth move!
23:41Oh, there we go!
23:43Yeah!
23:44Merry Christmas!
23:46Maybe a smaller one would be the perfect souvenir, so long as it doesn't bring back those childhood
23:53nightmares of cracking nuts.
23:55There's a Scottish one with a pair of bagpipes and a kilt!
24:04Oh, my goodness!
24:06There's literally a nutcracker for anybody around here.
24:09Definitely gonna have one tonight.
24:12And it looks like a few gifts have caught the eye of my fellow cruisers, too.
24:16Hi, everyone.
24:17Oh, have you managed to find a couple of things you're interested in by return?
24:24And I want to find out what my new Australian friend Margaret thinks of this place, as she's a Christmas superfan.
24:32Hello, Margaret.
24:33How are you?
24:35I'm absolutely in awe.
24:38Absolutely in awe.
24:40This is the most beautiful shop I have ever seen.
24:43Really?
24:44This just takes my breath away.
24:47This is where I've always wanted to come.
24:49It's something that I feel as though I've ticked off the bucket list.
24:53I've always been too busy to do the things that I've really and truly loved.
24:58And this is one of them.
25:00This is one of them.
25:01I'm so pleased for you.
25:06Margaret's reaction was really quite emotional.
25:10And that's the beautiful thing about Christmas.
25:13It's about dreaming.
25:15It's about just those special moments.
25:19So this isn't just about shopping.
25:22This is really, really important.
25:24And it's lovely to share it.
25:26And we'll go back to the ship and we'll have had this moment together.
25:30Nutcracker purchased and my time in Tinseltown is nearly up.
25:34Thank you very much indeed.
25:35Lovely.
25:36Have a lovely Christmas.
25:37Bye.
25:38I could easily while away hours here, but I've just a couple of minutes to grab a festive
25:51treat before we head back to the ship.
25:53So there is a local delicacy I am dying to try while I'm here.
26:00It is Schneeballen or Snowballs.
26:03I really don't know what it's made of, but you know, when in Germany and all that.
26:12Hello. Hello. How are you? Good. How are you doing?
26:14Very good. Thank you. Can you tell me what is a snowball?
26:19Well, a snowball is a traditional pastry that was found in the Middle Ages
26:25where people would bake it for baptisms or weddings because it doesn't need any refrigerating.
26:32So you can just stick it in a tin and keep it for a long time, six to eight weeks.
26:37Really?
26:38Yeah. And so that was really convenient during that time where they didn't have anything to keep the snowballs good.
26:44I see.
26:47The traditional snowball is sugarcoated, but I'd like to try one of the more festive flavours like apple and cinnamon,
26:53hazelnut or chocolate. Yes, it has to be chocolate.
26:58Okay. Here we go.
26:59Thank you very much.
27:01Thank you so much for your time.
27:02Thank you so much.
27:03Have a lovely Christmas when it comes.
27:04Thank you. You too.
27:05See you later on.
27:07Okay.
27:08I mean, it's like a giant procedural in a bag.
27:15It's more of a biscuity texture.
27:18Very sweet.
27:20Very, very delicious.
27:21Now I'm going back in.
27:25There's no way to do this in an attractive, dignified way.
27:29Buy some more.
27:31Nothing more embarrassing than when two people from the ship see you trying to eat a snowball.
27:35They'll blow the top of the ship.
27:37They'll snowball Susan.
27:38That's what they'll say.
27:39I'll find bits of it in my bra for days to come as well.
27:43Onwards.
27:49After two shakes of a reindeer's tail and a day full of festive fun and Christmas magic, we're back on board.
27:55And it's finally time to settle down.
27:58Time for bed, I think.
28:00Night.
28:02Good night, Susan.
28:04Adorable.
28:06Nighty-ho.
28:12Sweet dreams.
28:13Dreams.
28:35I can't crack that many nuts.
28:36More nuts, Susan!
28:37More nuts!
28:39More nuts!
28:41No more.
28:43More nuts!
28:45Why is only a dream?
28:46It's a new day on my Christmas cruise.
28:47We're enjoying the seasonal traditions of German towns that come alive at this special time of year.
28:59After sampling sausages in Bamberg, we went nuts for nutcrackers in Rothenburg.
29:02And our next stop is Miltenburg in search of some festive entertainment.
29:05And our compact cruise ship is the perfect size to deliver us into the heart of the town.
29:23The ship is abuzz with excitement, and the bonuses are the best to be the best to be the best of the town.
29:28to deliver us into the heart of the town.
29:31The ship is abuzz with excitement,
29:34and the bonus is it's actually stopping at Miltenburg,
29:37so you can just wander off and take a look around.
29:41Got my hat on, got my gloves on, off we pop.
29:46Nestled on the banks of the River Main,
29:48the winding streets of another beautiful medieval town await.
29:54Overlooked by the Ordenwald and Spessart mountain ranges,
29:57Miltenburg is popular with climbers,
30:00but I'm heading into town for my Christmas fun.
30:06This is a very Christmassy thing to do, isn't it?
30:08Just to put your nose up against a chocolate shop and see what there is.
30:11Oh, they look lovely. Truffles. Truffles.
30:15Truffles.
30:21I love it when you can just have a wander, you know that?
30:24I love it.
30:26And I think all my fellow passengers do as well,
30:29everyone was ready to go, because the ship's gorgeous,
30:33but there's something nice about getting off and stretching your legs
30:36and taking a look around.
30:38There's a real charm to Miltenburg,
30:41with buildings that have been here since the 13th century,
30:44including this impressive church,
30:46and it sounds like the Christmas carols have already started.
30:50I can hear something from in this church.
30:54It's very beautiful.
30:56I'll just pop in.
30:58This is a lovely place and the sound is incredible.
31:11I'm going to try and find my way up and see if I can chat to whoever is playing that magnificent music.
31:19I can play very basic piano, so can only imagine the skill required to play this incredible instrument built in 1699.
31:33Sat at the keyboards is the very talented Sylvia.
31:37incredible. What a pleasure to meet you.
31:43The sound of that gives you goosebumps.
31:47What does it feel like to play?
31:49The organ is the master of the instruments.
31:52And when I play in this church and when I'm alone, it's really wonderful. I love it.
31:58I think a lot of people look at the organ and think it's a very complicated instrument.
32:03What do all of these things do, though? Do they play different noises?
32:07Yes. In this song, I did really only a traverse flutter with a tremolant.
32:14Yes. And I came with this. I can make it really, really pianissimo.
32:21Yes. Very delicate.
32:23Yes. It's like a dream. It's like really a flute.
32:26Do you know, it's very strange, Sylvia, because you really remind me of my piano teacher.
32:30You have the same. And I loved her, Mrs. Scott.
32:33We had an organ in the house, actually, and I've always loved the sound of it as a result.
32:39No, I'm not a great pupil, but could we try and do something together?
32:45OK, yes.
32:46That was a slightly reluctant yes, but I'm not passing up the opportunity to play here.
32:53You can play the melody and I play the rest, OK?
32:58But you need to show me how to play it!
33:01OK. Right, OK, hold on.
33:05Yes. Oh, super.
33:10Ah, brilliant, I think.
33:22Like, absolutely no word of a lie. That's one of the greatest things that's ever happened.
33:26Next year, we make the rest.
33:30This is a real pinch-me moment.
33:33OK, ready?
33:34Yeah.
33:35That is just, it's quite an emotional thing, isn't it?
33:54Yes, it's a really deep emotion, and it's the reason why the organs are in the church.
34:00Yes.
34:01I think I want to do this now.
34:02You are a very good teacher.
34:04Oh!
34:05You are a very good teacher.
34:12My Christmas cupeth runneth over.
34:15This has been an unexpected wish come true.
34:19Welcome to the organ.
34:21My visit to Miltenburg might have been short, but the Christmas memories I've made here
34:36will stay with me for a very long time to come.
34:39Back on board, we set sail for the Christmas capital of the trip, Cologne.
34:52And to get there, we're travelling through a stretch of water that's one of the most visited
34:57attractions in Germany.
34:59This is the Rhine Gorge, and on both sides of the river, there are incredible little houses
35:08and castles, and it's known for being particularly scenic.
35:12You can also see some vineyards on the sides of the hills, and it is, I mean, it's really,
35:18really very beautiful.
35:19Of course, I can only see one side.
35:21Oh, it's such a long walk to see the other side.
35:24Come on.
35:25Ah, there's the other side.
35:35So you can now see what's here.
35:39I just love the size of this river, though.
35:41It feels like you're really sailing.
35:43While the ship sails along, we've all been called to the lounge for a bit of a surprise.
35:59I've no idea what it is, but given the number of Christmas hats and jumpers on display, everyone
36:05seems to be up for it.
36:07Ladies and gents, would you like to come and join me in singing a Christmas song?
36:12Yes, yes.
36:14Do not need to be asked twice to join in a sing-song.
36:18You don't have to be able to sing.
36:19Come on now, everybody.
36:21How fabulous.
36:23A special Christmas sing-song.
36:25So hold on, I'll count you in.
36:28A one, two, three, and...
36:30Dashing through the snow, on a warm hot open sleigh, o'er the fields we go, laughing
36:39all the way.
36:40Ha, ha, ha.
36:41Bells on the bobtail ring, making spirits bright.
36:47We may not know all of the words, but my goodness, we're singing with real gusto.
36:52Jingle bells, jingle bells, jingle bells.
36:54And what we lack in harmony, we make up for with enthusiasm.
36:58The fun it is to ride it on one horse, o'er the best sleigh.
37:15And that was emotional.
37:17Once they add the auto-tune to that, that is going to be a Christmas number one.
37:22Well done, everyone.
37:23Well done, everyone.
37:25Coming up, our Christmas cruise reaches Cologne, and it's everything I could have hoped
37:38for.
37:39You are so magnificent.
37:42Happy Christmas, and to you, darling.
37:45The bells are ringing just now from the cathedral.
37:49It is so incredibly beautiful.
38:00My festive river cruise through Germany has arrived in magnificent Cologne.
38:04The city is home to some of Europe's most popular Christmas markets, and visited by around 4 million people each year.
38:13This is my first time in this 2,000-year-old city, and I couldn't think of a more perfect
38:18time of year to visit.
38:21My first stop is St Nicholas Market, with my friend and fellow Christmas lover, Margaret.
38:27I've been keeping my eye out for a festive treat for her, and I think I've finally found it.
38:34You wanted some Glühwein.
38:35Have you managed to get any Glühwein yet?
38:37No, I haven't.
38:38In the spirit of Christmas, I'm going to make your dreams come true now, because straight
38:43in front of us, it is Glühwein.
38:45Oh, and look...
38:47In the little boots!
38:48In the little boots!
38:49It's in the little boots!
38:50It's in the little boots!
38:51I know!
38:52Margaret has travelled all the way from Australia to experience a traditional German Christmas,
38:58and drinking Glühwein from a boot-shaped mug is part of her dream.
39:04Smells delicious, doesn't it?
39:05Oh, it's got herbs or something in it.
39:08Cinnamon, I think.
39:09Cloves, maybe, in it?
39:10Yeah.
39:11Let's have a taste and we'll find out the verdict.
39:17That's nice, isn't it?
39:18Oh, that is.
39:19That is absolutely delicious.
39:21Is everything you hoped it would be?
39:22Oh, it is.
39:23It is.
39:24And the little boot, I think that's just gorgeous.
39:28Absolutely gorgeous.
39:29And I'm glad both of your Christmas wishes on this cruise have come true.
39:33OK.
39:34So, here's to you.
39:35Happy Christmas.
39:36And to you, darling.
39:38Another Christmas wish come true.
39:44And just around the corner, there's more magical surprises in the Market of Angels.
39:52You're so magnificent.
39:55Do you represent anything?
39:56Yes, it's a Nordic legend.
39:59It's like we have in Germany, Nikolaus.
40:03What kind of owl is there?
40:05It's an African spotted owl.
40:07My goodness.
40:08So incredible.
40:10You're spectacular and so are you.
40:13This market certainly has an extra sprinkle of fairy dust.
40:19There are lots of angels here.
40:21I once had the honour of being the Angel Gabriel in the church nativity.
40:27And I remember it was a pretty big deal to be chosen to be the Angel Gabriel.
40:32People still talk about it, you know, in Scotstown.
40:35Be your eye was the Angel Gabriel.
40:37Angelic.
40:38There's a Guinness.
40:56have to offer my final store is massive and it's even more special because the
41:08cathedral is right there it is so incredibly beautiful there's such a
41:13lovely atmosphere here everyone's very cheerful
41:21and after hot putting it through the town I think the team have earned a
41:25Christmas treat to hands up if you want a sausage just for that first okay for
41:31everyone it is Christmas after all thank you very much indeed right I should really
41:38hold the camera at this point but I don't want to break it sausages for the crew
41:42can I have an end because I have the end of your sausage
41:46happy Christmas everyone the sausage has put a spring in our step and given us a chance to soak
42:01up this wonderful atmosphere the bells are ringing just out from the cathedral it's proper Christmassy
42:11that's what it is it's quite nice soundtrack because Christmas songs are lovely you're playing all the
42:17time but that's you know the bells are ringing out for Christmas with the world's third largest gothic
42:26cathedral in the background being at this market at this time of year is a dream come true and I have
42:32one more Christmas wish before I leave my wish is that you have a happy healthy peaceful and joyous
42:40Christmas whoever you spend it with so from me and mine to you and yours Merry Christmas
42:56can you have all the festive fun you want unlimited funds a luxury Christmas for less how to do it is
43:04brand new next Friday at 8 from the canaries to the Caribbean you can find all episodes of
43:10cruising with Susan Kalman streaming now on five there's live boxing as Harlem Eubank takes on Josh Wagner next
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