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Ride with Norman Reedus Season 6 Episode 4
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00:00Oh my God, I love it here.
00:11Yeah, it definitely has its own little vibe to it.
00:15In today's world, undiscovered gems are almost impossible to come by.
00:19I didn't know what to expect here.
00:21Yeah, me neither. This is definitely not what I would have expected.
00:24In this place, it's no exception.
00:27I'm here with my friend, artist Audrey Law.
00:30To explore one of Europe's most popular destinations.
00:33It's so pretty up here. Look how blue the water is, too.
00:37You could just hop your bike over the railing and go for it.
00:41Right?
00:42Where you have to get really far off the beaten path just to leave the crowds behind.
00:48I wish I knew geography better, I could tell you exactly where we are, but I don't.
00:52Oh, Siri, show me.
00:53Yeah. Siri, where am I?
00:57To do that, you'll need to be online.
01:00We're so far out, we don't have a signal.
01:02My Wi-Fi doesn't work.
01:05This is Ride, and we're in Portugal.
01:13Feels like there's nobody here.
01:16Yeah, it's pretty quiet. It's kind of nice.
01:18Wow, look how high up we are.
01:19This is sure pretty.
01:21It really is.
01:22I feel like this is make-out point.
01:26Like, if you're in high school, this is where you come to make-out.
01:29You think so? Do you think the high schoolers come here?
01:33Audrey and I first met through a mutual friend.
01:35She's co-founder of Paradise Roadshow and Reunion, two popular vintage bike and car events in California.
01:43A photographer by trade, her work graces magazines and billboards all over the country.
01:48So you've been to Portugal before?
01:52I have, right when I got out of college.
01:54There was like an art camp that I went to.
01:57Just did little seminars and workshops together, and it was like artists from all different mediums in Portugal.
02:03They're like living, breathing art.
02:04Portugal once controlled the oceans, leaving its footprint across the globe.
02:11Today, it's a country experiencing the influence of the rest of the world.
02:14A place that's rich with history and culture.
02:17An old world melting pot that I can't wait to explore.
02:23Is that a fishing boat, that little...
02:26Mm-hmm. I wonder how cold the water is.
02:28Look at their lost at sea, right?
02:30Hello!
02:32I'm telling you, this is make-out point.
02:34There's two high schoolers that went out there years ago, and they're still there.
02:38We're still making out!
02:40Don't mind us!
02:47Oh, it smells so nice. It smells like green.
02:51The air smells clean, you know?
02:52Yeah.
02:53This place is adorable!
02:54A few years ago, I visited Lisbon on a press tour for The Walking Dead, and immediately fell in love.
03:08Just another tourist captivated by Portugal's allure.
03:11So it's great to be back, taking in the ethos and history of a country in transition.
03:17You have everything in Portugal.
03:21You can go to a beautiful beach, and then you can go and sleep in the mountains.
03:26It's paradise in the tip of Europe.
03:29The rise of tourism is crazy.
03:33Portugal had this boom about tourism.
03:35In the last ten years, people really discovered Portugal.
03:38I think we are going to stay like the most visited countries forever.
03:45This is the spot.
03:47It is like a little fairy tale.
03:48Arriving in Lisbon, we'll get a taste of the past, before venturing out to explore medieval villages north of the city.
03:58Then it's into Porto, to immerse ourselves in the sights and sounds of a magical city.
04:04A three-day, 340-kilometer journey along the captivating western coastline of Portugal.
04:13Wow, look at all that tile.
04:14Yeah, the tile work here is crazy.
04:16Yeah, it's really beautiful.
04:18I wonder how old some of these buildings are.
04:20I don't know, some of them have kind of like a 70s Miami vibe.
04:23And some of them look really old.
04:25You're like, oh yeah, castle.
04:26Like, that's just kind of common in Europe.
04:28This is magic here.
04:30The imprint of Lisbon's long history greets you at every turn.
04:34A medley of architecture and art dating back to the Romans and Moors.
04:38And a convergence of culture that has shaped a city ever since it was Europe's most essential port.
04:44There's a lot to take in, and even more to unpack.
04:48Oh, another sick ride coming up.
04:50Kind of fun, kind of deadly.
04:52I'm sure they can get really bad during traffic-y times.
04:56Yeah, right?
04:56But these cobblestone streets weren't made with motorcycles in mind.
05:01Good thing there's another way to check out the old center of the city.
05:06Tuk Tuk appeared with the tourism.
05:09Tuk Tuk, it's a tourism vehicle that I believe came from India.
05:15Suddenly they just, oof, feel like mushrooms just growing everywhere.
05:22Tuk Tuk coming.
05:23Tuk Tuk Tuk.
05:24Tuk Tuk.
05:25Tuk Tuk.
05:26Hi.
05:27What's up? Hi, I'm Norman.
05:28Good afternoon. I'm Miguel.
05:29Nice to meet you.
05:30Hi, I'm Audrey. Nice to meet you.
05:31How good a driver are you?
05:32I believe I'm a very good driver. I'm ready for it.
05:34Okay. All right, cool. Let's go.
05:35Let's go.
05:36Yeah, take us.
05:37Do we need to sign a waiver in case you're not a good driver?
05:40No.
05:41Where's the name Tuk Tuk come from?
05:42It's the diesel ones. The motor, the sound on the motor was like...
05:46Wow, that's cute.
05:47But these ones are very silent. Let's go.
05:52Oh, it's deceiving.
05:53Here we go.
05:54It's quiet.
05:55Yeah, it's very nice.
05:56Tuk Tuk. What's up, Tuk Tuk?
05:58Can you do a wheelie in this thing?
06:01Miguel Cardoso used to paint for a living, but when the tourists started arriving, he
06:08saw the writing on the wall and became one of Lisbon's first Tuk Tuk drivers ten years
06:13ago.
06:14So we should be in good hands.
06:15So we are arriving to the old town, very small alleys.
06:20Oh, yeah.
06:21So dope.
06:22Oh, my God. Look at this.
06:25I love the tile here.
06:27Yeah.
06:28Time, part of our identity.
06:33I love it.
06:35I could just stay here and photograph a week.
06:38Yeah, take pictures of everything.
06:39The very Mediterranean kind of traditions.
06:41Yeah, this is so cute.
06:42The laundry outside, as you can see.
06:45I love the doors. They're so little.
06:47Yeah.
06:48Like, how cool is this?
06:50And now, down the hill.
06:52Yeah, we're gonna slide, hit that emergency brake.
06:55Yeah, drip, drip, drip.
06:57Oh, my God.
06:59Let's do it.
07:00I love this part of the country.
07:01I do, too.
07:02I like this part, too.
07:03It's amazing.
07:04It's a mix between immigrants, hipsters, prostitutes, drug addicts.
07:08Wow.
07:09Is there drugs in Portugal?
07:11You can use, and it's not a crime.
07:14Really?
07:15Yeah.
07:16You can buy drugs, use drugs openly, and not be arrested.
07:19Yeah.
07:20How does that work?
07:21Very well.
07:22Normally, it results in a very good way of dealing with that problem.
07:28Wow.
07:29We are about to arrive in one of the highlights, where it's possible to see almost all the city.
07:35Wow, look at this.
07:37Here we are.
07:38Wow.
07:39It's a fresh air part of the city.
07:42Everywhere here is pretty fresh, it seems.
07:45Yeah.
07:46We start our tour this direction, close to the river.
07:51Okay.
07:52And we did all that way.
07:53What a beautiful city.
07:54Yeah, it really is.
07:55It's so colorful.
07:56What was the Talmud?
07:57The Riviera.
07:58Yeah, the Riviera of...
07:59Qashqash?
08:00Yes.
08:01Where's that?
08:02Right there.
08:03So, you have the bridge.
08:04Oh, okay.
08:05Yeah, we rode all along there.
08:06Yeah.
08:07The name of Qashqash came from Arabian pirates.
08:09Oh, that's cool.
08:10Yeah, because he used to rob Lisbon, but his name was Qashqash.
08:15Qashqash.
08:16Qashqash.
08:17Qashqash.
08:18Qashqash.
08:19Qashqash.
08:20So, the corruption of the name gave the actual name to the city.
08:24Oh, wow.
08:25And now it's the Riviera.
08:26Yeah, it's the Riviera.
08:27And it was the meeting point of the pirates.
08:30Wow.
08:31Oh, that's funny.
08:32Yeah, I knew I liked that place.
08:33Yeah.
08:34Thank you so much.
08:35My pleasure.
08:36What a pleasure to meet you.
08:37Thank you for the tour.
08:42I feel like we're in paradise.
08:43It's pretty epic.
08:44We've gotten some good scenery today.
08:46We have mountains.
08:47Yeah.
08:48We have the beach.
08:49Yeah.
08:50Portugal's got it all, baby.
08:51Yeah, it does.
08:52And we've only gotten started.
08:54We're off to discover the cuisine and culture of Lisbon.
08:59After you, m'lady.
09:00Thank you, kind sir.
09:01World of kills.
09:02What are, like, the best accents you can do?
09:04Uh, redneck.
09:05I'm sure you got that down.
09:09I feel like I just went through a smoke cloud of garlic shrimp.
09:10Yeah.
09:11That smelled really good.
09:12We're on the same wavelength right now.
09:13I think we're just hungry.
09:14All right, let's go have a pastry.
09:15Yeah.
09:16Let's go have a pastry.
09:17Yeah.
09:18Let's go have a pastry.
09:19Yeah.
09:20Let's go have a pastry.
09:21Yeah.
09:22Let's go have a pastry.
09:23Yeah.
09:24This is the spot.
09:25It looks very popular.
09:26Yeah.
09:27Hi, Audrey.
09:28Nice to meet you.
09:29Hi, I'm Roman.
09:30Hi, I'm Roman.
09:31Nice to have you here.
09:32You're busy.
09:33Yeah, it's busy in here.
09:34It's busy.
09:35Yeah.
09:36Yeah.
09:37It's busy.
09:38Yeah.
09:39It's busy.
09:40Yeah.
09:41It's a pastry.
09:42It's a pastry.
09:43Yeah.
09:44It's a pastry.
09:45It's a pastry.
09:46It's a pastry.
09:47It's a pastry.
09:48Yeah.
09:49It's a pastry.
09:50Yeah.
09:51It's a pastry.
09:52Yeah.
09:53These are some other pastries we have here, but the ones we're famous for.
09:55Yeah.
09:56They're called pistache bling.
09:57Oh, man.
09:58Look at all this.
09:59What's in it?
10:00A secret recipe.
10:01Oh, a secret recipe.
10:02A secret recipe.
10:03How do you make it?
10:04I'm going to show you.
10:05Yeah.
10:06We'd love to see that.
10:07Let's go.
10:08We'll take this.
10:09The Portuguese pride themselves on being artisans of food and wine, and their desserts are no exception.
10:13For years, people have been traveling to an outer suburb of Lisbon to taste their most famous
10:17the pastiche de Belém.
10:19Sexy hair now.
10:20Hair is not even anything.
10:21It's too much hair.
10:22I know.
10:23Come this way, please.
10:26It smells so good.
10:28They bake about 20,000 of these every day by hand.
10:31Wow.
10:32Really?
10:3320,000 a day?
10:34That's nuts.
10:35We're going to eat like 100 of these, so you might want to put us to work.
10:38If you want to give it a go, you're my guest.
10:41There's a proper way to do this.
10:43Okay.
10:44It's like this.
10:46It's kind of therapeutic.
10:47Yeah?
10:48Yeah.
10:49I kind of feel like I'm working out a lot of past things right now.
10:53I thought it was going to be a little better at this.
10:56It only took you three tries.
10:58Okay, two.
10:59It only took you two.
11:00Is this like a family business?
11:02It's been a family business since the start.
11:05Almost 200 years.
11:06Most recipes for Portuguese sweets were invented in monasteries.
11:09The nuns, they used the egg whites to press the clothes to get them starched.
11:14Oh, wow.
11:15Yeah.
11:16And so they were left with the yolks, so they got creative.
11:19And nine out of ten typical Portuguese sweets were invented in monasteries.
11:23Wow.
11:24This one, for instance, was invented in the monastery of Geronim, which is the one right
11:29here on our front door.
11:31And the monasteries were closed in 1834.
11:33Yeah.
11:34Portugal is at a long, bloody path from religious monarchy to democracy.
11:41After the 1834 liberal revolution, the country shut down all monasteries and convents, nationalizing
11:47the property, leaving many nuns to fall back on their knowledge of baking to earn a living,
11:54resulting in the rise of the modern-day Portuguese pastelaria.
11:59Yeah.
12:00She's saying that you're ready to go.
12:03She likes it.
12:04Fist bump.
12:06What?
12:16Oh, my God.
12:17Wow.
12:18You like it?
12:19Yeah.
12:20I like the flakiness of the top.
12:22Wow.
12:23These are delicious.
12:24Can we get, like, 200 to go?
12:26Yep.
12:27Strap them to the back of the bike.
12:30Mmm.
12:34That was delicious.
12:35Yeah, it was really good.
12:37Actually, strangely, my appetite didn't go away.
12:40Yeah.
12:44This area's kind of cool here.
12:46Yeah.
12:47Graffiti and flowers.
12:48There's quite a bit of graffiti going on here.
12:50Super cool.
12:53A huge part of Lisbon's rich lineage is its vibrant art scene.
12:57And to me, there's no better window into a culture than how they nurture artists.
13:02We're on our way to meet a woman who runs a spot at the center of it all.
13:07Wow, this is cool.
13:10There's a bus on the top of your roof.
13:12What's going on here?
13:13It's a cultural venue.
13:14We host a lot of events here.
13:16Cool.
13:17And then there's a restaurant.
13:18And it's also a music academy for young kids.
13:21Oh, cute.
13:22Is that it?
13:23Anything else?
13:24That's a lot of stuff.
13:25And you were on some list of, like, the 50 best people in the world.
13:2850 best women in Lisbon.
13:30That's...
13:31That's pretty awesome.
13:32Yeah.
13:33Congratulations.
13:34She's being modest.
13:36Mariana Duarte Silva is a CEO and veteran of the music industry.
13:40One of just 12 female entrepreneurs chosen to have her likeness made into a Barbie.
13:45I gotta admit, I'm a little jealous.
13:48What about you?
13:49What list are you on?
13:50I don't know.
13:51I don't know.
13:52One of the top DJs and live actors.
13:53Oh, right on.
13:54Oh, right on.
13:55Nice to meet you.
13:58Oh, cute.
13:59Now, this is the music academy, so where we teach the kids how to program and produce
14:04music online.
14:05Oh, that's so cool.
14:06They can mix digital with classic instruments.
14:09We work with children that usually wouldn't have access to music production.
14:13Music school for me, and school was the recorder, the flute.
14:16Yeah.
14:17Yeah.
14:18Okay, last thing I wanna show you.
14:20You gotta check my venue.
14:21So, this word says the performance place for the kids, but also the club nights every
14:27weekend.
14:28That's awesome.
14:31Parties until 6am.
14:32Oh, man.
14:33This is cool.
14:34So, your students come in here, they perform for the other students, for the public?
14:37For the public.
14:38Oh, wow.
14:39It's like fame.
14:40Remember that TV show Fame?
14:41It's like fame.
14:42It's one of my references.
14:43Oh, really?
14:44Yeah.
14:45A great thing that the City Hall did was relocate temporarily to a very run-down neighborhood,
14:50which was Intendente, and that whole thing, the whole neighborhood shifted a lot because
14:55of the City Hall.
14:56I mean, you would put City Hall in the poshiest area of town, not the heart of the problem.
15:03And they did that, and it worked.
15:04Wow.
15:05Wow.
15:06So, gentrification just arrived, and this is actually a really hot spot.
15:11Eventually, we will have to leave here.
15:14Yeah, it's a shame.
15:15It's a shame.
15:16Have you ever seen that show, Ozark?
15:17Sure.
15:18Of course.
15:19Just finished.
15:20You gotta start paying people off.
15:21Yeah, but maybe I'll have to deal drugs before I do that.
15:23I heard it's legal here.
15:25Decriminalize.
15:26It's not a crime to consume.
15:27Yeah, to possess.
15:28And it seems to be working.
15:29You basically treat it as a disease instead of a crime.
15:34Of a crime, yeah.
15:35And so you make legal clinics where people can do drugs with safe tools.
15:41Exactly.
15:42That's very smart, actually.
15:43Yeah, yeah.
15:44And took people off the streets and just vanished the pandemic, actually.
15:48The criminal system can be a loop.
15:50Yeah.
15:51It's stuck.
15:52It's like a vortex from where you can't escape.
15:54It's crazy that that's working, and I can see how it could work.
15:56Yeah, it worked.
15:57I'm sorry.
15:58I didn't mean to turn this into CSI.
15:59No, no, no, no.
16:00That was beautiful.
16:02Thank you guys so much.
16:05She's a bad bitch.
16:07I think it's really important for the community that someone's doing it.
16:10And all the better that it's a woman.
16:12That's crazy what he was saying about drug addicts here.
16:14It's like they're trying to help them.
16:16Yeah, it's kind of crazy.
16:18Portugal's novel approach to an age-old problem is just the latest example of adaptability and social reform in its long history.
16:27And after 20 years of success, it seems they might just be on to something.
16:31Everything we did today was really fun.
16:33Yeah, today was a good day.
16:41Day two.
16:42One last stop in Lisbon before we hit the road.
16:48So how long have you been doing Paradise Roadshow?
16:51Six years.
16:52Wow.
16:53Paradise Roadshow was actually like born on a motorcycle trip in Europe, actually.
16:58It's grown a lot and it's really exciting to see that people are stoked on it.
17:04You know, we're doing it for the people who care about vintage cars and bikes.
17:08Yeah.
17:09Audrey is a vintage enthusiast.
17:11And for all the historic sites these streets have to offer, there's one thing that's missing.
17:16I don't see any old cars here. None.
17:19There must be some old cars here.
17:21I never see them.
17:22They're all super tiny.
17:26But where we're headed has the next best thing.
17:29For Portugal, Unique Edition is kind of, well, unique.
17:32Due to strict local laws, motorcycle customization has become an underground scene in Portugal,
17:38making Unique one of Lisbon's only true custom shops.
17:43Wow, what a cool shop.
17:46What goes on here?
17:48A little bit of everything.
17:49You have some restorations going, some customization going over there.
17:54Did you fabricate this entire gizmo?
17:56Yes.
17:57Oh, I get it.
17:58He imprinted this on 3D.
18:00I was just going to ask if you did a 3D printer.
18:03Yes.
18:04Wow.
18:05We did this tail section, then it just married it with fiberglass.
18:09This bike will run and will corner and brake very, very well.
18:13Better than stock, for sure.
18:15Wow.
18:17This is the bike from the first...
18:19Mad Max.
18:20Mad Max.
18:21Shut up.
18:22Really?
18:23Yes.
18:24From 1979.
18:25We are building a replica.
18:26Yeah.
18:27The good old days.
18:28I can picture it now.
18:29This bike was trash when it came in, and it was really, really bad.
18:42It had those, like, airbrushed wolves with the moon and the girl and the waterfall.
18:49That's great.
18:50What are you talking about?
18:51On a Honda.
18:52That's the thing.
18:53That's what I would do.
18:54Yeah.
18:55I want to still believe that we are some community, guys that really like the bikes
19:03and ride together.
19:04I think this community has to stick together, because in Portugal this custom scene is super
19:11illegal.
19:12I can understand that this is a concern about safety, but they don't need to be so, like,
19:17nit-peaky.
19:18We have to keep it legal.
19:19Legal mirrors, legal lights, legal exhaust.
19:23Can't cut the frame, or change the wheel distance, or put an open exhaust.
19:30What about old cars?
19:31Because we were talking, there's, like, no old cars here.
19:33Yeah, it's the same.
19:34It's a challenge for us to still do something cool, but try to keep the lock.
19:39Yeah, like, outlaw stuff.
19:40I love it.
19:41So we are going to Ovij, a really old town that was built inside a fortification, and
19:48then grew out of it.
19:50It's really cool.
19:51Cool, let's go.
19:55My bike is BMW.
19:57Ironically, it was a police bike.
19:59You gave it a second life.
20:01Much cooler second life.
20:02Yeah.
20:03You're lucky that the Mad Max bike wasn't done, because I would have asked to ride it,
20:07and then I would have quoted the movie all day.
20:09That would have been pretty funny.
20:10Yeah.
20:11I am the Knight Rider!
20:12Leaving Lisbon, it's an 85-kilometer trek north until reaching the medieval village
20:19of Ovij, one of the few remaining walled cities in all of Europe.
20:24And that is Ovij.
20:27Uh-huh.
20:28Oh, look at the castle.
20:30Yeah, that's crazy.
20:32Do people live here all year round?
20:34Yes, they do.
20:35I just have these buses, and I think nobody lives here.
20:38Oh, like it's just tourists?
20:39Yeah.
20:40Yeah, it's very tourist.
20:41Yeah, that would be kind of annoying to live in a tourist attraction.
20:45No, it's time for the bumpy stuff.
20:50Vehicles are prohibited inside of Ovij village walls, so we're going to check this place out
20:55on foot.
20:56This is pretty cool already.
20:57Uh-oh.
20:58I don't think I've seen anything like this.
20:59Unheard of in America.
21:00Yeah, right?
21:01Oh, it is one of my favorite places in Portugal.
21:02It's a small village, but surrounded with a big wall.
21:16We have here a typical product called ginger, that is a small cherry liquor and became also
21:23one of the trademarks of Obito's.
21:25I feel like you are walking in a castle.
21:29Hi.
21:30How cute.
21:31How are you?
21:32Hi.
21:33Bruno.
21:34Hello.
21:35Nice to meet you.
21:36Nice to meet you.
21:37Oh.
21:38Wow, this looks delicious.
21:40Yeah.
21:41Actually, the best picture over there.
21:42Sitting in that corner.
21:43Is someone going to fall on my head?
21:44No.
21:45No.
21:46Is this a trick?
21:47I don't think so.
21:48I don't think so.
21:49In the wall, there's a small flap.
21:50No.
21:51Oh.
21:5260 years ago, it was a scandal in the public place.
21:53Now it's kind of normal.
21:54And all these bottles, what's the story with all this?
21:56It's a collection.
21:57All different, all over the world.
21:58In America, we just hang bras.
22:00Or dollar bills.
22:01Yeah.
22:02This bar opened as an antique shop.
22:03Most of the swords and bayonets we have, it's from the time of the Napoleon Wars, when
22:07the first battle from the French against the English in Portugal was here in Obedos.
22:10Yeah.
22:11In 1808.
22:12Do you ever see a copy of the French?
22:13Yeah.
22:14Oh, yeah.
22:15Oh, yeah.
22:16Oh, yeah.
22:17Oh, yeah.
22:18Oh, yeah.
22:19Oh, yeah.
22:20Oh, yeah.
22:21Oh, yeah.
22:22Oh, yeah.
22:23Oh, yeah.
22:24Oh, yeah.
22:25Oh, yeah.
22:26Oh, yeah.
22:27Oh, yeah.
22:28Oh, yeah.
22:29Do you ever see ghosts?
22:30Yeah.
22:31Is it haunted?
22:32There are a bunch of legend stories about it.
22:35I'm sure.
22:36Is there some ghost stories?
22:38In Portugal, every town has a story about the enchanted Moorish girl coming at night
22:44to him.
22:45Maybe it's just wishful thinking.
22:47I don't know.
22:48Why a Moorish girl?
22:49Well, Portugal was occupied by the Moorish for almost 500 years.
22:53History normally romanticizes the past.
22:56And so the Moorish girls were kind of a romantic idea of medieval Portugal.
23:02Maybe that's the reason.
23:03So how many people live here and are tourists?
23:06Like, what's the ratio?
23:08Inside the walls, it's about 50 people live inside.
23:11Wow.
23:12About 40 years ago, almost 2,000.
23:14There's been a big drop.
23:17It has to do with tourism.
23:19You know, property prices go up and people just leave.
23:22It's a shame, but I mean, I understand it.
23:24I never seen so many Americans in Portugal.
23:26I apologize.
23:27Moving in.
23:28I know, me too.
23:29But the speciality of the town is the cherry brandy.
23:32The ginger with the Morello cherries.
23:34If you're not riding, we probably would be drinking now, but...
23:37Why would we leave?
23:41Gotta respect a guy who isn't afraid to let visitors know they're spoiling his town.
23:45Right to their faces.
23:46That guy's awesome.
23:48Yeah, he was great.
23:49But you know what?
23:50He's got a point.
23:51Without stewards of the past, no future can remain.
23:55And I appreciate all Bruno does to keep the legacy of this place alive.
23:59I hope we meet up again.
24:00Nice to meet you.
24:01Nice to meet you too, man.
24:02It's great to meet you.
24:03Pleasure very much.
24:04Bye, thank you.
24:05Thank you so much.
24:06Thank you very much.
24:07But we're saying goodbye to our new friends for a ride up the coast,
24:11where there's much more to discover.
24:13It definitely feels like we're getting closer to an ocean.
24:16I love that.
24:17Clearly there's not 100-foot waves right there.
24:19Wow.
24:20I want to see.
24:25Wow, this is totally different over here, huh?
24:28Yeah.
24:29Very countryside.
24:30I like it.
24:31Yeah.
24:32It does feel like we're going towards the water.
24:34Oh, cool.
24:35Wow, look.
24:36Yeah.
24:37I wonder how cold the water is.
24:39For centuries, fishing communities have dotted Portugal's shoreline,
24:43seemingly untouched by time.
24:46Taking our way on a 210-kilometer journey through Nazare to the maritime port of Avairo.
24:53The wind is kicking up.
24:54I wonder if that's why they have such big waves over here.
24:57Maybe.
24:58These waves are so big.
25:00It's kind of mind-blowing.
25:01That's scary.
25:02It's terrifying.
25:03Yeah.
25:04It's terrifying.
25:05Yeah.
25:06The village of Nazare was once one of those sleepy coastal towns, until word got out about
25:12its torrential waters.
25:13The Atlantic Ocean here is usually rough.
25:14There's no harbor, no breakwater.
25:15And for centuries, fishermen have lost their lives in the small boats.
25:20Famous for its 100-foot waves, Nazare has been transformed into a surfing mecca.
25:28All right, I want to see where this giant wave is.
25:31Dude, I've been waiting for this.
25:34We're stopping to meet a guy who knows the power of these waters better than anyone.
25:38Nice to meet you.
25:39Nice to meet you.
25:40Oh, good.
25:41Pleasure.
25:42Hi, I'm Audrey.
25:43Nice to meet you.
25:44Nice to meet you.
25:45Let's see the waves.
25:46Let's go out.
25:47Yeah, yeah.
25:48Are you ready?
25:49Yeah.
25:50I'm gonna go grease up in Vaseline and get in the summer.
25:55It's done.
25:56Race car turned jet ski driver, Sergio Cosme, is the guardian angel of Nazare.
26:03During big wave season, he rescues fallen surfers, saving countless lives.
26:08And now that it's off season, the jet skis are used for a less dangerous, but still heart-stopping
26:13adventure.
26:14Here we go.
26:15Our lady of Nazare, please, bring us safe home.
26:18And let's get some fun.
26:19Yeah!
26:20Yeah!
26:21Woo!
26:22Woo!
26:23Ha, ha, ha, ha!
26:24Ah!
26:25Ah!
26:26Ah!
26:27Ah!
26:28Ah!
26:29Ah!
26:30Ah!
26:31Ah!
26:32Ah!
26:33Yay!
26:34My hero!
26:35Ah!
26:36Ah!
26:37Ah!
26:38Ah!
26:39Ah!
26:40Ah!
26:41Ah!
26:42Ah!
26:43Ah!
26:44Ah!
26:45Ah!
26:46Ah!
26:47Ah!
26:48Ah!
26:49Ah!
26:50Ah!
26:51Ah!
26:53you are in the biggest wave of the world the last three records it was here so this is the mecca of
27:07the the big wave surfing you know how has this town changed since all the big surfing ah changed
27:13a lot even people are buying houses just to rent after you know here the houses are really expensive
27:21now and all death changes because of surfing out on a jet ski or a surfboard it's easy to feel like
27:30it's just you in the water but i'm discovering even the most remote regions of portugal aren't
27:36immune from the influx of new visitors and its effects are already being felt changing the seaside
27:42village forever
27:51another guy's good vibes yeah what an adventure of a day yeah right
27:56the thing that is cool about like riding bikes with another person or other people is that like
28:02yeah you're together and you're experiencing this together but at the same time you're having your
28:06own individual experience you're totally right you drive around l.a with your dog absolutely
28:13what's your dog's name again his name is baxter he sounds cute already my friend actually has a
28:19chihuahua named norman everybody's got a dog named norman yeah i get that all the time i feel like i'm
28:25the only norman left in the world we're entering avairo a picturesque canal-laced city that's been called
28:32the venice of portugal wow how cute this does look like italy like yeah did not expect that when
28:46we rounded the corner seriously oh this is really cute how are you good welcome to avairo audrey nice
28:54to meet you how are you nice to meet you joining first time in navajo yeah did not expect this at
29:01all this is awesome we are known to be the portuguese venice you will see why how long have you been
29:06doing rides for tourists like us so i was working in a bank and then since 2018 i quit the bank and i
29:13joined the tourism world and i've been doing this for already four years wow very cool
29:18with the art nouveau architecture pastel painted buildings and yet it's canals avairo is kind of
29:28like a less discovered venice for now anyway i love the buildings here too yeah i mean these are so
29:35beautiful and it makes for an ideal spot to finally crack open the ginger i've been holding on to since
29:41obeach do you know this of course your face your face lit up yeah it's that good right i've never
29:48had it no it's sweet yeah cheers thank you for coming to avairo thank you for having us enjoy all
29:55right it's a sipper right this is great i could have a billion of these
30:03what's up buddy you know just cruising cruising down the river it's such an interesting mix because
30:15you have these old buildings with tile and they're pink then you have like a factory and then you have
30:21this modern building over here there's a lot of different flavors here we have beautiful tiles yeah
30:27we've noticed yeah beautiful tiles in the past they were used to show prosperity like look at me
30:33i'm rich yeah ornate design the canal separated in the past the rich people that were living on
30:39this side from the poor people that were living on this side when the floods used to come into the
30:44city they would flood all the houses and so the channel used to separate the rich people those one
30:51who could afford to to have a house on a high hill and those who couldn't afford to have the house
30:56on the high hill tourism is just booming here like it's all over portugal yeah all over portugal a
31:04lot of americans are coming to portugal they are trying to yeah to buy houses here to live because
31:09you know the quality of life living it's nice it's amazing so many people moving here and coming to
31:16visit here just do you like that or you like stay out i don't mind because it's good for our country
31:21and when you come here to live to work or for your vacation you are bringing money to us you are
31:26giving jobs for people you are eating our food you are doing tourism with us so you are improving our
31:31lifestyle and because of that it's good okay there is a line yeah let's see where the line stands it's a
31:37balance you know tourism can be a double-edged sword there's a delicate balance of welcoming new industry
31:47and opportunity while preserving what was and with its recent influx of visitors yep us included portugal
31:55cities and small villages alike are figuring out how to navigate a new world landing on their shores
32:01hi thank you so much it was beautiful thank you so much enjoy yeah thank you bye guys
32:06it's quieter very quiet very chill day three last night we stayed in the beachside town of arcazeo
32:23but there's no rest for the weary or for us because we've got one final day to discover this country
32:29i feel like they support art a lot here they really do yeah which is cool they see the value in it which
32:36is really awesome it's great yeah it's a coffee
32:47it's got an art vibe to it like a bohemian sort of woodstock art thing going on yeah it's super cute
32:54want more peaceful here yeah right yay it's delicious thank you so much what got you into photography
33:02i was probably like 15 or so i had like a little digital camera and i'd go to shows and i was like
33:08i want to take pictures and you know do like the like shutter drag stuff like so cheesy but when you're
33:12like young you're like this is so cool you know what i mean and i was just taking pictures and i was
33:16like i really like doing this yeah you know i really really like film yeah but now you can like
33:21you can take i know it's like sacrilege but you can take digital everything and make it look like
33:25film i know i know you can't yeah i try and make my digital stuff at least look a little
33:30less sterile a little a little more flavor yeah yeah for most people retro is simply a trend
33:36but that's what i love about audrey from her custom shows to her life's work she really lives it
33:42it i'm going to a tile maker is that what we're doing today pottery place i think we're going to paint
33:47some tiles cool should we go let's boogie
33:53good and talk
33:58still wrong
34:01damn it what i meant was bon dia or good morning you know what i'm saying
34:05we've got a final 20 kilometers across the douro river into our final destination porto
34:13it's portugal's second largest city known for its six stunning bridges and of course
34:18its namesake wine and on our last day here it's the perfect place to check off the boxes on our
34:24portuguese to-do list this is porto this town's pretty cool look at all this yeah
34:31this place has such a vibe to it whoa whoa what look at this like little castle cool yeah i like
34:44the ruins yeah like abandoned ruins in between the homes and yeah right look up from the top left that
34:51one up to the top of the hill whoa that's like a manor yeah that's awesome wow this place has a lot
34:58of flavor yeah it's so cool this might be my favorite spot so far yeah it's beautiful save the
35:05best for last whoo that's fun different arts and class in portugal tile is kind of a big deal
35:16something we may have already mentioned once or twice hello i'm audrey i'm francisco nice to meet
35:21you nice to meet norman hi norman nice to meet you welcome to our studio cool so we're heading to
35:26a studio plato a downtown artist co-working space to try our hands at painting traditional portuguese tile
35:34i love the tile here where does that come from we had a king in our 16th century that was called
35:40an carlos and he traveled to south of spain and he brought a really nice cultural heritage that was
35:49this sort of this sort of tiles they are mudé hard tiles so he decided to bring it to portugal
35:57in portugal azulejos glazed ceramic tiles function is more than just beautiful decor coloring these
36:04cities they are the physical embodiment of portuguese multiculturalism combining influences from the
36:10middle east latin europe and former colonies around the world this is great art class it's been a while
36:17we have a few stencils here if we do this really well no one will know which is a stencil okay you
36:25don't have to tell anyone
36:37let's do this all day this is awesome yeah
36:44you came with motorcycle land yeah do you listen to that music like born to be wild when you write
36:50your classes we do it's a requirement yeah they don't give you your license unless you can sing
36:56that's why yeah have you listened to portuguese music yet no you should father is really cool yeah
37:02we have this special guitar you know like many strings where does that come from father has this
37:08relation to the word saudade if i try to translate it for english is is to miss someone or miss a place
37:16that word is a big symbolic sign in our culture and father um kind of sings about it a lot pain and suffering
37:29pretty how do we do those i mean like technique-wise how are we i mean she's she did better than me
37:36yeah yeah she's more like less is more you are like more is more guy yeah yeah i'll sell it to you
37:45yeah for the next building
37:50that was awesome i think i just made my whole day yeah perfect we gotta get into the music scenes
37:56what a cool vibe here those little balconies are so cute yeah wait go stand in there i'll take a
38:13picture of you it's our last day in portugal and there's two local specialities we can't miss
38:19hello what's up i'm working too hey i'm working here it's beautiful yeah we love it here yeah nice
38:30to meet you have a good night
38:35the first is a heart attack inducing delicacy the portuguese simply call lunch
38:39so grab a seat yeah ding dong oh the bells perfect timing cool i'm kind of starving yeah i'm really
38:53hungry right now is the time wow a porto classic an overwhelming concoction of ham sausage and steak
39:02between bread and cheese covered in a secret sauce i need a shovel so enjoy and good luck good luck we
39:10mean good luck they call it francis senior translation little french girl just don't ask me why well
39:18there's 12 lots there's a lot going on in there yeah this is good hangover food
39:23it's kind of a mouth explosion isn't it why would you call this a little french woman why why this is
39:37like a big fat french man yeah i agree so how is it it's awesome thank you very very glad for that
39:45there's something sweet about it is that the secret yes yes the secret is the sauce and the chef and
39:50here so you make that sauce to 28 years wow it's really good so enjoy thank you so much you're welcome
40:00thank you for doing this episode you're welcome thank you for having me it was really fun i really
40:05didn't i obviously didn't know what to expect but it's quite an adventure yeah totally
40:13it's been a whirlwind three days but before we call it a wrap there's one last spot we have to check out
40:19out casa de fado an intimate 19th century wine cellar to finally hear the traditional portuguese
40:26music we've been told so much about and we're in luck tonight acclaimed fado singer sandra castina is on
40:32stage portugal is really nostalgic you hear about the word so dad a lot and it's a word that only
40:54exists in portuguese so that it's feeling the lack of something or someone
41:04and father is based on that melancholy of missing people
41:13and the people who sing fads sing it with such an emotion of faith of destiny of
41:19profondity that no you cannot explain it you just have to listen and feel it
41:36wow what's that about it's about missing someone for real at the beginning final was that harvard kind
41:44of music people used to have a lot of times without being at home their wives their kids used to miss
41:50them a lot it's the same as like cowboy stuff western stuff all the songs are about i loved her and i
41:56lost her yeah it's the same sort of thing right yes
42:00in portugal i found that the past is held tight but there's also knowledge that with change comes
42:29possibility even with the uncertainty it brings a longing for what came before while adapting for
42:36what will be it's why sadad the feeling behind this music resonates so deeply here
42:45it's only been three days but i'm already beginning to understand
42:59so
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