00:00 This article covers how a head gasket replacement and ARP head stud install is
00:05 performed on a 6 liter power stroke without pulling the truck's cab.
00:11 Most shops pull the cab, but the folks at Flynn's shop prefer to leave the cab on and
00:16 the engine in frame for the job. The end result is the same, as well as the
00:20 amount of time it takes to complete the work. Much of the job entails gaining
00:25 access to the heads in order to remove them. Items like the serpentine belt, alternator,
00:30 fan shroud, thickem, and radiator hoses have to be removed, along with a partial
00:35 teardown of the evaporator core housing. Throughout the teardown process, steps
00:40 are taken to ease headaches and speed up the reinstallation time later on, such as
00:45 installing zip ties on the hard fuel lines running to the fuel filter housing.
00:48 This keeps the fitting from sliding down onto the valve covers or the heads.
00:55 The intake manifold studs are marked prior to pulling it off the engine, which helps
00:59 decipher where a mounting bolt versus a mounting stud installs during reassembly.
01:04 Prior to reinstalling the heads, the bottom ARP head studs on the passenger
01:08 side head were secured in place via zip ties. This has to be done because there
01:13 isn't enough clearance to install them once the head is on the block.
01:19 Finally, the ARP head studs are torqued, starting from the center fasteners and
01:24 working your way out in four separate intervals. The first round of torquing
01:29 calls for 50 foot-pounds, then 100 foot-pounds on the second, followed by 155
01:35 foot-pounds for the third, and finally 210 foot-pounds.
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