- 4 minutes ago
Burton walks us through the process of using makeup for blood and bruising, like in this IG post, demonstrating on himself in a tutorial fashion.
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00:00But sometimes people just will do the face and kind of forget about the other stuff not on Handmaid's Tale
00:04We can't we can't forget about that stuff
00:07So I'm the head of department makeup on the Handmaid's Tale
00:10from day one. I've been there since the very beginning and
00:14Yeah, I'm my fourth season now. I'm super excited about the Emmys this year. It just it's been you know
00:19I got nominated the first time for the colony season two
00:22But when you're nominated the second time it's even feels a lot better
00:26It feels a lot more rewarding not that it wasn't the first time, but it just feels like solidified almost
00:32I think some of my favorite tips and tricks throughout the years and different things I've done have been just
00:37less is more
00:39Don't add more than what you need
00:41So I'm going to show you a little bit about the blood work and bruising that I use a little
00:45bit of movie magic behind the scenes on Handmaid's Tale
00:47So this is my go-to Laura Mercier tinted moisturizer, which is great
00:52And it's a little bit paler than what she is just to kind of cancel out any
00:57Redness so this is what I would do for lizzie for her offered june look
01:01You can see that it kind of cancels out some of the redness there. I want her obviously for june
01:07and in
01:09Gilead, she's got a look really worse for wear and really rough
01:12This is really just shadow and i'll just accentuate and just help you know
01:18Darkening under the eyes there. It's not going to read the exact same way here. Obviously the lighting is a
01:23little bit different
01:25You get the idea
01:27And it's just all about getting that color in the right spot, you know, like i'm not doing so by
01:33not doing it here. It's
01:35Creating a little bit of depth. I'm just using it in the more, you know darker depressed areas
01:40Even here the temples
01:44So when I get the script if I feel like I need to have a little practice of the makeup
01:48Or I want to really see how it's going to read on my on lizzie's skin
01:51I'll do a little test run maybe something on my neck or something on my hand
01:56Let's see how it's going to work. Let's see if that's really going to move
01:58Maybe pour water over it or do whatever I need to do whatever it's going to happen that scene
02:03I'll do a little test run on myself
02:04A basic red pencil like a blue red pencil
02:08This one is actually a lip pencil
02:10But it does the trick just has to be the right color. This is young blood and i'll just go
02:14right in
02:15I'm kind of doing a little bit more intense
02:18I don't think it's maybe reading like it should here. It's one of those things too. It's better to do
02:23it
02:25Right away like she comes in at six in the morning
02:27I'll do this even though she might not start shooting until about eight
02:31It just will help if you get it started and it'll kind of work its way in there and be
02:35Really natural looking as opposed to just doing it and be ready on camera like in another hour if I
02:40leave this
02:41It's going to be perfect. It's just going to work its way into all those little
02:45spots
02:46And especially if you remember the heroic episode, I think it was episode nine in Handmaid's Tale
02:52This was used a lot in the hospital when the other handmaid there was in the bed dying
02:58So I'll make her skin tone even paler than the porcelain Laura Mercier
03:04So it's actually just a death flesh color by Ben Nye
03:07Which just pales out the skin even more now this one's a little tiny bit heavier
03:12So you got to be really careful that you don't I don't go too heavy or you don't go too
03:16heavy
03:16But it really just takes away strips down. It's like death flesh basically
03:20When I'm on set when I'm getting ready for our cameras, it would be like a really fine
03:26Layer, but you can see how it's like really stripping out everything and make sure you're really
03:31Get into the hairline. Don't be afraid to kind of work everything right in there, right?
03:37Arms, neck, ears, back of neck. Those are all like don't forget those details
03:43I think the look that I'm most proud of on Handmaid's was season one where she was locked in her
03:48bedroom
03:49And she spent a lot of time with her in her closet
03:51I think in her bedroom for maybe two or maybe three weeks
03:54It was just like there were some really beautiful shots that came out of that because she was paler and
03:59she was more distressed
04:00Darkness under the eyes establishing season one when we got all those looks happening. It was pretty special. It's a
04:06pretty special time
04:07This is really just an eyeshadow by smashbox and actually the color which is a really great color because there's
04:14no warm
04:16Warmness in it. It's a warm tone. It's called grounded. It's actually this one. So we're using that one right
04:21there
04:23This is a really big go-to that the skin all illustrator effects palette, which has some really great
04:30Bruised tone colors. It's got some blood tone colors. I typically use
04:35The blue black and these blood tones here work so great
04:40Keep building layers in certain spots just makes it more realistic and nicer looking
04:49It's so sheer the alcohol and that because it's a fine liquid
04:53So it'll just really get into the pores and it's really it's not like a cream whereas it's gonna be
04:58a little bit thicker
05:00And you know what if you don't really like a little spot just a bit of alcohol
05:04Something happens on set where a piece of it's come off or something's happened
05:08You want to be able to like a quick little fix
05:10So you've got the alcohol, you know, this is always with me. This palette's always with me
05:13The alcohol is always with me and some great brushes
05:16Pro tip here from the dirtworks grime
05:19By fleet street. It's a really great. This is din. It's great. It's got a nice little spray here
05:25Once again, it's really sheer. So you want it to look worn out and dirt that she's had there for
05:31a little bit
05:31Not not fresh dirt. So just really ground in dirt
05:36You know, I'll always get Lizzie's nails
05:39So this picture here with Lizzie in her hands. So you really
05:43You know at some point you do see your hands
05:46I don't want them standing up because I don't know if we're going to have
05:4920 minutes on set to do that last minute. So you really got to get in there and get all
05:53that stuff done
05:56Really quick job. I could spray a little bit, but you don't want it to go
06:00Everywhere and where you don't want it to go
06:01You don't want it to go on the hair because that's a whole other
06:04Issue you don't have to deal with hair people for that
06:08So I might put a little bit on a wet one or a wet little cloth
06:14Get right in that hairline
06:18Don't forget the neck. Don't ever forget the ears. You just want it blotchy so it looks worn in
06:26Once I've got Lizzie's makeup on or whatever makeup you're doing with blood or you know a distress kind
06:31of a look I might just I'll take a little bit more and I'll just you can use the blood
06:37just accentuate what you've done
06:39But don't forget about that area right in there in the hairline
06:43You just don't want that line of blank space or blank canvas
06:47Obviously keeping with continuity at all times you're following pictures you're keeping everything exactly the way it should be
06:58Don't forget about that area under the eye
07:02KD151 theatrical blood that we use
07:05Quite a bit. It's kind of a go-to drying mouth blood. It's like an extra dark. It's just cornstarch.
07:11It's not gonna
07:12It's not gonna hurt anything and it doesn't last, you know
07:15You really got to keep applying the stuff because obviously, you know, it's in your mouth and it's just going
07:19to dissipate really quickly
07:23This is actually a great silicone product. They use it's called dermaflage and it comes in different colors. This one's
07:30a blood red
07:31This one is a medium tone. There's a light tone. There's a darker tone. This is a great color for
07:36June and Offred
07:37So it's all silicone, but you can really make a nice little, you know texture area. It's a great out
07:44-of-kit product
07:48Now before I put this product on the face wherever i'm going to use it
07:51I would map out the abrasion first. I would kind of draw it out with color
07:56And then I would put this on top and then add color after if I needed to
08:02So it could just read it can be like a great little wound area whatever you want to use what
08:06you can
08:07Pull out the center of it to make it like it's like a little opening or it can be like
08:10a raised kind of scar
08:12If you want to take use a spatula here, it's a great little tool if you want to like
08:16Pull out some of it like to make a little opening maybe in the middle
08:20But you got to be really quick with this product. It dries really fast
08:23I'm going to do a little mattifying product Kryolan
08:27Just takes away the shine
08:33I'm just going to add a bit of color to this
08:41Now once again with this product and color i'm i'm doing it in this light
08:44But obviously you do it for the set light and for the high-def cameras where I probably would would
08:49be
08:49It would be less than this the cameras would just pick this right up
08:53So i'm doing a little bit accentuating it for you so you can see it better
08:58So it's really great plasma soap that we use to take away blood or any redness to the skin
09:03We need to take that off the next scene could be completely the opposite
09:06It could be they could be back in a flashback to their nice life
09:10If the plasma soap doesn't take it off drugstore foaming shaving cream which takes the blood out too
09:16It takes away that layer of redness that we don't want we want that right out of there
09:20So this really does the trick especially sometimes when they have blood they they're soaking in it
09:27Their entire body is covered right
09:30Best thing that I find for my job and what I do is the social aspect as well as doing
09:36you know
09:36amazing beautiful work getting to meet all these amazing people where else does that happen
09:41So that's probably the the most special and what I really cherish and what I really love
09:47Overall I think that went really well I was happy with that duplicating that look
09:51Once again it's always about knowing the lighting on set knowing what you're matching to knowing the continuity
09:58Whatever you do on the face it's all going to have a really nice natural flow to make it look
10:02perfect and real
10:05I can't wait for me to get back to work so you can see what we have to offer for
10:09season four
10:09Thank you for watching refinery 29