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There are many items of clothing that announce to the world that their wearer is now a woman. For some people, it's the bra, for others, it's their first shoe with a heel. For many Indian women, that garment is the sari, an expansive length of cloth that takes skill and know-how to wear correctly. Girls learn to execute this multi-step process from their mothers, and "come out" for the first time in their own sari during Ritu Kala Samskara, a ceremony that marks a girl's transition into womanhood.

But, this journey isn't just for girls. For India's third gender, the hijra, that process of transformation is a much more complicated and fraught one to make. The label of "hijra" pertains to a diverse range of people who consider themselves outside of the cis categorization of male or female, but largely describes those born male who transition to female through a combination of gender affirmation surgery, taking on India's traditional feminine gender roles, and wearing women's clothing.

Though hijras were officially recognized by the Supreme Court in India in April of this year, which mandated their representation within government institutions, the idea of a "third gender" is not new there. Its origins go back thousands of years, and they have held cultural, political, and spiritual importance throughout history. But, like many in the global trans* community, they face incredible prejudice, discrimination, and violence. Even with their new legal recognition, hijras are still marginalized in a country where impoverished women do not have the same rights as their male counterparts. Since reliable doctors for sexual affirmation surgery are expensive and hard to find, many poor hijras seek out less-safe options. So, making the decision to transform at the risk of their own safety, civil rights, and personal health requires an incredible sense of identity. To hijra people, saris are a badge of honor, a symbol of self, and an armor against the world; it is their right.

With our host Asha Leo, we traveled to Coimbatore, India, to meet with a brave group of hijras in this episode of Style Out There. Watch as we explore their world and perspective, and how powerful a single piece of clothing can be.

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Transcript
00:01Combator India. My connection to this story and this place is unique.
00:07My grandfather was born here and now I'm visiting for the first time nearly eight decades later.
00:14Like many places in the subcontinent, it's a city exploring the boundaries of old and new.
00:20But one community in particular is pushing through a complex past and looking towards a transforming future.
00:27They are Hijra, India's ancient transgender community.
00:32We've only just arrived, but my team and I have been invited to a unique celebration.
00:38This is a ceremony of rebirth, a moment of transformation.
00:43It's a welcome into womanhood and a community of like-minded souls.
00:48For one, this party marks the very first time to dress in sari,
00:52a badge of honour and symbol of femininity for nearly all Indian women.
00:58That's why we have a lot of joy in life.
01:03What do you think about it?
01:06That's why we have a thousand people.
01:08That's why we have a lot of joy.
01:11We have a lot of joy.
01:13We have a lot of joy.
01:16Heathra are now a politically recognised third gender.
01:20A category of people whose identity is neither male nor female.
01:26They began their lives as one gender, but have physically transitioned to another.
01:33Dana is one of the estimated two million hijra in India.
01:38You look so lovely. This colour is amazing on you.
01:55Hiza means something different.
01:58I was born a man, now I'm a woman.
02:02I did a sex change, so I'm a transsexual woman.
02:06I feel proud to be a transgender. I don't think there's something abnormal in me.
02:14In India, hijra have a recorded history of more than 4,000 years.
02:20Royal courts held them in high regard and sacred Hindu texts describe them in bright sari and delicate jewellery,
02:27bestowing them with special powers to bring luck and fertility.
02:30The hijras are considered to be an incarnation, another form of Lord Krishna, Lord Shiva and Lord Shakti.
02:38So every new thing that happens, a transgender is there.
02:42These revered hijra traditions do continue and some of Dana's friends have invited us to see the hijra offer a
02:48blessing.
02:49A newly married couple goes first to a transgender, get their blessings and start their life.
02:55A newborn baby is first given to a transgender and the baby is being blessed.
03:01The community of women greet our arrival and have put on their nicest saris for the occasion.
03:06I can't wait to see it all.
03:14They do some rituals to bless the child.
03:17At first, the baby isn't as welcoming to his new guest.
03:23But soon, he is mesmerized by the magical dance and song of the hijra deity.
03:30Good fortune has arrived.
03:32The words that they are saying are assigned.
03:36May God bless the child and let the child live for 100 years healthy.
03:39Oh, okay.
03:42Though despite their special place in Indian culture and history,
03:46Hijra have been pushed to the fringes and have not received the same civil rights as men and women.
03:52The minute the family realizes that this person is not of a regular gender,
03:56they probably beg that human being, please leave.
03:58Because it brings shame on the family.
04:00Yeah, shame on the family.
04:01And when you don't have education, you can't work.
04:03That's the reason they are involved in heavy sex trade, heavy prostitution.
04:06Rejected by their families and society,
04:09many turn to prostitution and begging as their only means to survive.
04:14They refuse jobs, ostracized, criminalized, and even sexually assaulted on the street.
04:34I never used to behave like a guy. I used to help my mom in the kitchen, help her in
04:39cooking.
04:40Did you feel comfortable talking to your family about the way that you felt?
04:43Well, they didn't accept me. They want me as a son, not as a daughter.
04:47It's been now six years. I'm out of my family altogether.
04:52I was really scared, but I had no choice.
04:55How did you find your courage?
04:57The passion to become a female made my mind strong.
05:01Dana is now trying to put the past behind her and embracing her new identity.
05:06She invited me to stop by her local garment shop, where the choice of fabric allows women to create their
05:13look from a variety of colors and textures.
05:15It was well on the white t-shirt, yeah?
05:17Yeah.
05:19The history of the sari is traced back thousands of years to the western part of India.
05:24The word sari is Sanskrit for strip of cloth.
05:29There seems to be a lot of material.
05:33Who taught you how to do this?
05:35I learnt when I saw when my mom was draping us.
05:38Oh, so she didn't actually show you, you just paid attention.
05:41We're tucking and draping everything around the underskirt.
05:45The garment measures an impressive 15 to 18 feet long, though there are many recorded ways to drape it.
05:51It's a simple foundation, but for Dana, a sari was essential to realizing her true self.
05:57When did you finally put your first sari on?
06:00After the sex change.
06:02How did you feel when you saw yourself?
06:04I felt I've done what I was aspiring for.
06:07Really?
06:08I burst out in tears.
06:10Oh, it's beginning to take shape.
06:12Before, yeah, I would be laughed at.
06:15I would be laughed at.
06:17Now that you get to wear a sari, you have your own sense of style, who Dana really is.
06:22Yeah.
06:27Wow.
06:28Wow.
06:29You guys.
06:35One of them is an Aase.
06:37How did you get that Aase?
06:39We have a family.
06:43We have a family.
06:43We have a family.
06:44We have a family here.
06:47Fashion is our most ready means available to us to express in a visual statement our identity.
06:55And something as simple as this sari has been denied to them.
06:59These women are so courageous.
07:02It might just be a piece of clothing to some, but to a special group of people, it's an identity,
07:08a victory, a new beginning.
07:11I feel very happy because I've undergone so many pain in my life to become like this.
07:16When we are with our community, I feel at home.
07:26Thanks for watching Style Out There.
07:29Subscribe now for more stylish adventures.
07:29Subscribe now for more Skylish Adventures.
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