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Go behind the scenes at the Obama Presidential Center with Louise Bernard, Founding Director of the Obama Presidential Center Museum, as she breaks down Michelle Obama’s most iconic First Lady looks and reveals how fashion became a powerful part of her legacy. In this episode of Behind the Seams, discover how Michelle Obama built a wardrobe that reflected her values as First Lady, championing a diverse range of designers, rewearing beloved pieces, mixing luxury fashion with accessible brands like Target and J. Crew, and pushing the boundaries by showing off her arms in her now-signature sleeveless looks.

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00:00She always looked good, and always still looks good.
00:03Correct answer.
00:04The dress that you wore at the 2012 Democratic Convention.
00:10Girl, you look cute.
00:11You look very cute.
00:12And it showed off her legs a little bit.
00:15I liked it.
00:16Yeah.
00:20Look, let's face it.
00:21Everybody wants to look like Michelle Obama.
00:24Michelle's dresses are iconic, and I think her style communicated a lot about her personality.
00:29She was a first lady who took bold initiatives.
00:32She was very fashion forward.
00:35But despite that bold sensibility and that sense of real elegance and grace,
00:41she was also able to connect seamlessly with everyday people.
00:44People could walk up to her, and she would always hug people and make them feel close.
00:48So there was nothing that would be prickly or standoffish.
00:51It was really all designed to invite people in.
00:53We really wanted to ensure that Mrs. Obama's story was woven throughout the narrative.
00:58We actually begin with her very early life here on the south side of Chicago,
01:03all the way through her early career, her life of public service, and into her role as first lady.
01:09We are on level four of the museum.
01:11It's called the People's House.
01:13I'm standing in front of the fashion case.
01:16It's called Celebrating Fashion and Design.
01:19The first look that we have in the case is from Election Night in Grant Park in Chicago, November 2008.
01:27It is a black and red sheath dress by Narcissa Rodriguez.
01:32Just a really beautiful sense of gradation between the red and the black.
01:37She also wore it with a kind of shrug-like cardigan.
01:41Cardigans were just central to Mrs. Obama's kind of fashion vocabulary.
01:44But it also is otherwise a sleeveless garment, which seemed almost revolutionary at the time.
01:51It was just central to who she was.
01:52And so this dress, I think, is an introduction to Michelle Obama as first lady.
01:57The second look we have in the case following election night is the ensemble Mrs. Obama wore for the 2009
02:04inauguration.
02:04It's a beautiful ensemble in this lemongrass-coloured lace material designed by the late Cuban-American designer Isabel Toledo.
02:15We have a beautiful sketch by her husband, Ruben Toledo, and also the accessories that Mrs. Obama wore in terms
02:23of the shoes, Jimmy Choo, and the gloves, which were J.Crew.
02:27This glimpse into the high-low fashion approach that Mrs. Obama would take.
02:32We may recall it was a freezing cold day.
02:35And so Isabel Toledo wanted to ensure that there was layers of warmth within the overcoat while also maintaining this
02:41really beautiful silhouette.
02:43We can only display these garments for 12 months before they need to rest for 10 years.
02:48And so we're working with Ruben Toledo to create a replica of the ensemble using the original lace material.
02:55There is a lot of work that goes into preserving garments as Mrs. Obama wore these dresses.
03:02She was a part of history.
03:04And so in preserving them, we are preserving history and really documenting her role as a remarkable first lady and
03:11the first black first lady.
03:13Many of the garments in the fashion case are on loan from the National Archives, from the Barack Obama Presidential
03:20Library.
03:20There are very specific conditions under which they can be displayed in terms of the environment, the humidity controls, very
03:28specific low lighting to ensure that light is not degrading the material.
03:34Textiles can often be very fragile.
03:36We want to ensure that people will be able to see these garments for hundreds of years to come.
03:41This is a beautiful piece by Neem Khan, who is an Indian-American designer.
03:47It is a knee-length dress that Mrs. Obama wore to the opening of the Anna Wintour Costume Center at
03:53the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.
03:56This center is for anyone who is curious about fashion and how it impacts our culture and our history.
04:03As you see this garment in person, you realize all of the remarkable beadwork that is included in the materiality.
04:12This is an ensemble Mrs. Obama wore for a state visit to receive President Francois Hollande.
04:18The overcoat is by Tom Brown.
04:21And then we have these amazing kind of thigh-high boots by Jimmy Choo.
04:25The next look we have is this beautiful dress by Tracy Reese, a black American designer.
04:31It's a dress that Mrs. Obama wore for the 2012 DNC convention.
04:36She was speaking to thousands of people.
04:38When you've worked hard and done well and walked through that doorway of opportunity, you do not slam it shut
04:45behind you.
04:46No, you reach back and you give other folks the same chances that help you succeed.
04:53It is a dress that tonally picks up on the idea of the American flag.
04:57This is something that Farrah Jasmine Griffin has written about in her introduction to Mrs. Obama's book, The Look.
05:03But it's just so tonally beautiful, that red, white, and blue sentiment to the dress.
05:10I didn't know ahead of time, obviously I had no involvement in what dresses were going to be going up
05:15in that case.
05:16But I was pleased that one of my favorites, I don't know that much about fashion, but I know what
05:23looks good.
05:24And one of my favorites turned out to be in there, and that was the dress that you wore at
05:31the 2012 Democratic convention.
05:34She looked very cute.
05:35And it showed off her legs a little bit.
05:38I liked it.
05:39I didn't know that.
05:40That was beautiful.
05:41You like that dress?
05:42I told you at the time, you just don't remember.
05:44She talks about me not liking attention, and as she points out, well, then you shouldn't have run for president.
05:51She has trouble taking compliments.
05:53So if I go, oh, girl, you look cute.
05:56She's all, thanks.
05:58And then she just kind of brushes it off.
06:01So, no, I talked about that dress when you were wearing it.
06:04The next two looks we have speak to the fact that Mrs. Obama often wore outfits more than once.
06:11She repurposed them for different occasions and for different reasons.
06:15This dress is by Pabal Gurung.
06:18It's a dress that she wore on one occasion in 2013 for an engagement with Prince Harry.
06:24The other dress is, again, the high-low fashion aspect to her sartorial diplomacy, so to speak.
06:32And this is a dress, it's called the Target Marona dress.
06:35It's a dress that you could purchase at Target that she sometimes wore with a belt.
06:39And this is a dress that she also wore on vacation.
06:43It was important to Michelle Obama to wear clothes over again, not just once and then put them away, because
06:48that's what we all do.
06:49We have a dress, we like it, and we put it on for one occasion, and then we wear it
06:53again.
06:53And so I think she was mindful of not trying to appear different than everyone else, but really just like
06:59us.
06:59So we have this wonderful look that Mrs. Obama wore in Japan.
07:03It's the Japanese label Kenzo, but at the time was under the creative direction of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim.
07:11We see the ensemble of accessories, so the Jimmy Choo shoes, a belt by Roxanda, Serbian-British designer.
07:19I think it's important to point out that Mrs. Obama did not shy away from patterns or prints, these very
07:25kind of bold gestures that she wore so gracefully.
07:29The final cluster of garments that we have in the case is a series of ball gowns.
07:35The first is this really beautiful ivory-colored kind of column-like gown by Tom Ford that Mrs. Obama wore
07:42to Buckingham Palace with these beautiful kind of lambskin opera gloves.
07:47It's obviously a sleeveless dress, but the gloves are elbow-length and create this remarkable kind of elegance, worn with
07:55these lovely chandelier-like earrings by Kathy Waterman.
07:59And then we have a gown by Jason Wu, who had also designed the first inaugural ball gown.
08:05And this is the gown that Mrs. Obama wore for the second inauguration in 2013.
08:10It was very important to Michelle to put the spotlight on designers who weren't brand names, who weren't household names,
08:16in order to lift them up.
08:17And it had a dramatic impact on so many of these young designers who she put on the map.
08:23We have the Jimmy Choo shoes, a kitten heel.
08:27This is one of her favorite styles.
08:28And then towards the end of the case, we have this real showstopper, which is a Versace gown.
08:36It's made out of chainmail material that Mrs. Obama wore to the Italy state dinner, which was the last state
08:43dinner in 2016.
08:45It weighs about 15 pounds, if you can imagine that.
08:49But really beautiful, it's a rose-gold-colored chainmail with a beautiful sketch here by Donatella Versace.
08:56And this is Atelier Versace.
08:59Alongside these gowns, we have what we refer to as a tactile station.
09:03And we have tactile stations throughout the exhibits on every level.
09:07This is a wonderful opportunity for all visitors, but especially visitors who have low vision or who are blind and
09:15who cannot see the objects in the case,
09:17to really have a connection to the object, which is to touch some aspect of the materiality of an object.
09:24We have braille throughout.
09:26So again, the explanation of these fabric swatches is explained here in text, but also in braille.
09:33And we have a universal experience point where a blind visitor can plug in their headphones and receive a visual
09:40description of the garments.
09:42The last dress in the case is the dress by Millie, designed by Michelle Smith, that Mrs. Obama wears in
09:51the National Portrait Gallery portrait by Amy Sherald.
09:54It has this really beautiful geometric pattern that is certainly very modern in its sensibility, but which also speaks back
10:05to the quilters of Gee's Bend.
10:07And so there's a really wonderful mixed art historical reference kind of bound up in this dress.
10:13The painting is obviously iconographic in and of itself.
10:17Now, there was a whole kind of pilgrimage effect to see the portrait at the National Portrait Gallery and when
10:22it went on tour around the country.
10:24So I think it's remarkable that people get to come to the museum and see the actual dress in person.
10:30One thing I would like to point out are these custom-made mounts for each of the garments on display.
10:37We wanted to be really mindful about skin tone and how we were presenting Mrs. Obama, but without being overly
10:45literal.
10:46So we spend a lot of time really thinking about the materiality of the mounts, the color, the skin tone.
10:52I hope that as the center evolves over the next 20 or so years, that local residents in particular feel
10:59a sense of true ownership of the space.
11:02But at the same time, we also reach people across the country and around the world and that we really
11:07build this local yet global dynamic.
11:10Over the next 25 years, I think what you will see is an evolution here.
11:14But I hope what stays the same is this sense of infinite possibilities that lie within each of us.
11:20It was really important to Michelle to weave in a wide range of designers, some who were household names, some
11:25who had not been recognized before,
11:27that came from all different backgrounds all across our country, richly diverse, in order to help her tell her story,
11:34which is richly diverse itself.
11:36And she's encouraging, I think, through her fashion for people to find their own voice through their attire.
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