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  • 1 day ago
Transcript
00:12as soon as there was the first wave there was the first surfer you know all you needed was like
00:18a
00:19piece of driftwood or a block of ice and you were off and they were hooked man they were hooked
00:27up till recent times you had your old dudes you know you're hanging six cats these old guys used
00:32to lay down with these huge humongous boards these guys were the pioneers but nobody saw what surfing
00:40could really be until big z did it can you tell us who big z was who is big z
00:47they're asking the right
00:48guy z is everything big z is surfing the maywell's not been an ocean before z they invented the ocean
00:55for him and he lived so hard because he wasn't afraid to live he wasn't afraid to die
01:09he came to antarctica when i was just a kid could have walked up to anyone and he walks right
01:15up to
01:15me and then he tells me you know kid no matter what find a way because that's what winners do
01:23he was the greatest everyone looked up to him respected him loved him and one day one day i'm
01:30going to be just like him
01:42so cody when you take your first wave and the whole island's there to watch what's it going to be
01:46like it's going to be amazing and i hope the camera's rolling because you're going to want to watch it
01:49over and over again it's going to be awesome get on top that was spectacular
02:00search up get up get on top
02:19you
02:21you
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