00:10as soon as there was the first wave there was the first surfer you know all you needed was like
00:16a
00:16piece of driftwood or a block of ice and you were off and they were hooked man they were hooked
00:24up till recent times you had your old dudes you know your hang six cats these old guys used to
00:30lay down with these huge humongous boards these guys were the pioneers but nobody saw what surfing
00:38could really be until big z did it can you tell us who big z was who is big z
00:45you're asking the right
00:46guy z is everything big z is surfing they may well has not been an ocean before z they invented
00:52the
00:53ocean for him and he lived so hard because he wasn't afraid to live he wasn't afraid to die
01:07he came to antarctica when i was just a kid could have walked up to anyone and he walks right
01:13up to
01:13me and then he tells me you know kid no matter what find a way because that's what winners do
01:20he was the greatest everyone looked up to him respected him loved him and one day
01:27one day i'm gonna be just like him
01:40so cody when you take your first wave and the whole island's there to watch what's it gonna be
01:44like it's gonna be amazing and i hope the camera's rolling because you're gonna want to watch it over
01:47and over again it's gonna be awesome
01:54that was spectacular
01:57killer
01:58you
01:59you
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