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A popular brand of gourmet sugar-free chocolate, or the famous Chocolate Perfection Pie which was a known favourite of many people
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00:11Chocolate is not any old piece of confectionery.
00:14For a lot of us, it holds a very special place in our lives.
00:18You could say we're addicted to the stuff.
00:21It's no surprise the Aztecs called it the food of gods.
00:26This is fun.
00:27In its long and rich history, it's been a currency, a medicine,
00:32an aphrodisiac and a sinful indulgence.
00:39I'm going to see how chocolate is made
00:41by some of the best chocolatiers in the world,
00:43what their secrets are and how they've married state-of-the-art technology
00:48with craft traditions centuries old.
00:54But this isn't just about revelling in this luxurious food stuff.
00:58I'm on a serious quest to create my own unique chocolate to use in my cooking.
01:04You won't be surprised that in my search for the best, I won't be touring the UK.
01:09Cannot touch the product. No dip in your finger in. There's no touch in the product.
01:13And you can forget about Switzerland and Belgium.
01:16For me, if you want chocolate to die for, you have to head to France.
01:32We've all got a childhood memory of chocolate, a favourite bar or a particularly delicious Easter egg.
01:38My memories are firmly associated with my mother, Monique, who makes heavenly chocolates.
01:44She started her working life in a Parisian chocolate shop.
01:48It's with my mother, my sister.
01:52Wow.
01:53It's a nice photograph.
01:54It's a beautiful photograph.
01:56I'm about 15 there.
01:59And that's the time that I went to the shop doing the chocolate boxes.
02:03Eating chocolates. I can see there's a little bit more...
02:07Actually, you're more rounded there than you are now, Mum.
02:10It's my cheeks.
02:11You must have been on the chocolate diet now.
02:15Yes, exactly.
02:16Yeah.
02:17And look, I'm only a year old, but I'm already chubby.
02:22So I must have had some chocolate in my biberon, in my bottle.
02:29We've always loved chocolate in the family.
02:31I remember you making me, not so much chocolate brownies, but chocolate cake for birthdays.
02:35Yes, always.
02:36And I used to put some, like everybody used to do, little smarties around.
02:42Smarties?
02:42I know, I know.
02:44You know, I've made some for you.
02:46Mmm.
02:49Right, am I allowed?
02:50Absolutely.
02:58Oh, wow.
03:02Oh, wow.
03:04Oh, wow.
03:04I don't remember making these before, because you know what?
03:08I put some alcohol also inside.
03:12As you're a big boy now, you can have a little bit of...
03:16I was going to say, they are grown-up truffles.
03:20Yes, yes.
03:30I'm here in Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France, where I trained as a young chef many years ago.
03:37But I'm here to visit a chocolate dynasty, because it's as good a place as any to start.
03:44The Bernachon chocolate-making dynasty stretches back three generations to the 1950s.
03:50Founder Maurice Bernachon used to say chocolate is not a simple treat or sweet, but an authentic gourmet food.
04:03Hello, Philip.
04:04Hello, Michel.
04:05How are you?
04:05What a beautiful beautiful business.
04:07Welcome.
04:09His grandson, Philippe, now guards his legacy.
04:12We'll take a little tour.
04:13We'll take a little tour.
04:15Come on.
04:15Do you want to go to the Palais d'Or?
04:17I want to go.
04:17I want to go.
04:18I want to go.
04:20I want to go.
04:21We'll do the ambassadeur.
04:22We'll go there.
04:23We'll go there.
04:24We'll go there.
04:25We'll go there.
04:27We'll go there.
04:28Oh, it's a good one.
04:31That reminds me of my experience.
04:35With the pen.
04:36Exactly.
04:39There are still old ones.
04:43That's good.
04:44They have a job, bravo.
04:47They're not there to be beautiful,
04:48we really serve every day.
04:51It's the old ones.
04:52Wow.
04:57We're doing everything in there.
05:12The chocolate-making machines at Bernachon
05:14date back to the founding of the shop in the 1950s.
05:19They believe in traditional methods here.
05:22This one plays an essential part in the creation
05:25of Bernachon's signature cake,
05:27Le Président.
05:34It was created in the 1970s
05:36in honour of French President
05:38Valéry Giscard d'Estaing.
05:44This is not a job for an apprentice.
05:46It takes years of practice to make this look so effortless.
05:56It takes years of practice to make this look so effortless.
05:57Hello.
06:00This is a dessert.
06:01We're in a cover with small grains of amandes.
06:04We're going to put it in a place.
06:06It's a touch.
06:06It's a hand.
06:08It's beautiful.
06:10It's beautiful.
06:12It's beautiful.
06:13It's the same.
06:13It's made in hand.
06:14It's a 55% of the cover with an amandes filé grillé
06:18and a small grains of amandes.
06:21It's a nice thing with chocolate au lait.
06:24It's made in the pan,
06:26it's made in the pan,
06:27it's made in the pan,
06:29it's made in the pan.
06:41It's all the time,
06:41and here we're going to work with 8 and 10種種 of fèves,
06:45with each of their typities,
06:48and their variety are well-known.
06:51They'll have many different tastes.
06:51Every time there'll be different tastes and different tastes.oolingly,
06:55rio,
06:55caribes,
06:56madagascar,
06:56java, I see.
06:57So they have a specificity, but why?
07:01So it's the cacao tree or the terroir?
07:04Well, it's the terroir, it's the climate,
07:07it's based on what country they will be,
07:10if there will be more humidity,
07:11if there will be more or less humidity,
07:12if there will be more or less humidity, etc.
07:15So it's like a vin?
07:16Exactly.
07:17You have to go out, assemble,
07:20make the mix,
07:21take a bit from here to get a perfect taste.
07:24Exactly.
07:24You have to have a balance
07:26and really try to respect at all
07:28what my grandfather and my father had chosen.
07:30So they are fermented and dried?
07:32Exactly.
07:34They come directly from plantations
07:35in bags like that.
07:43Sugar is added to the cocoa beans,
07:45which have been ground and roasted
07:46and then poured into this machine,
07:48which slowly heats the mixture
07:50and grinds it into a gritty paste.
07:59The next machine smooths the paste out even more,
08:03refining the mix.
08:07But it's still not chocolate as we know it.
08:11And at the end of the third passage,
08:14we will have something lisse and fondant.
08:16So it's not yet chocolate.
08:19And what will make it become chocolate?
08:21It's this machine.
08:23And that's what will give the croquant,
08:24the brillant,
08:25the fondant of chocolate.
08:26It's thanks to this machine.
08:27And so after,
08:28you will cook it?
08:29After, you will take the big bowl to the tablet.
08:32You will make sure that the product
08:35reaches 30 degrees at the good temperature.
08:38And you will leave it for a month,
08:40two months, three months,
08:41so that it will make it better.
08:43And that it will make it better.
08:45You will leave it for a good acidity.
08:49You will leave it for a bit.
08:50You will leave it for a couple of minutes.
08:51Like a vigneron who will put their wine in bottle,
08:54like a vigneron.
08:55And it's important.
08:56There are a lot of similarities
08:58between the vigneron and the chocolatier.
09:00Well, not all the chocolatier.
09:03Well, the Maison Bernachon,
09:04because you buy it,
09:07all of this work.
09:09It's amazing.
09:10And is there a little Bernachon
09:13who will take care of it?
09:14I have three little girls.
09:16My sisters have two children very well.
09:19So it's seven little children, so maybe with that.
09:23So there's another generation? We hope.
09:26I hope too.
09:30If I'm going to create my own chocolate blend,
09:32I'm going to have to take on board what I've learnt at Bernachan.
09:36Good chocolate is like wine.
09:38Its taste is determined by where the cocoa beans come from,
09:42how they're grown, roasted and combined.
09:45There are so many factors that contribute
09:48to making this complex foodstuff.
09:51There are caramel, beurre salé,
09:54and pistachios.
09:56This is too good.
09:59This is one of the specialties.
10:02It's a tralinié noisette.
10:04It's a janduja, with small grains in the inside.
10:09It's one of my favorite chocolate.
10:13And it's well enveloped.
10:16It's like a jewelry.
10:17It's just a janduja...
10:17It must have to be worth it.
10:22Wow!
10:26Wow.
10:27Philips grandfather was right.
10:29Chocolate is not for beginners.
10:36the history of chocolate goes back thousands of years to the ancient civilizations of Central
10:41America to the Olmecs Mayans and Aztecs for these people chocolate took the form of an
10:49exclusive and sacred drink at the chocolate museum in Paris I'm going to make and taste
10:57chocolate Aztec style in the company of its director Fabrice steinen right Fabrice this is
11:03the Aztec recipe so all these ingredients are here for the drink because it was a drink thing
11:10it was a drink actually the history of cocoa and chocolate has three more than three thousand
11:16years of consumption as a beverage exclusively so we have the cocoa beans of course we have
11:23corn we have support kernels so supporting kernels so it's a fruit or actually it's like an avocado
11:33but we use a kernel of it okay we here we have some chili of course pepper the ingredients of
11:42this Aztec recipe come down to us from the Spanish monks and priests who minutely chronicled life in
11:47the new world and maybe we are not sure about that they use a little bit of honey these ancient
11:55societies would use a grinding stone called a mitata to crush the cocoa beans into a paste see it starts
12:03yeah yeah yeah to to be ready here can I have a go sure you you can this is fun
12:13all right here we go
12:20so it's I mean it's a kind of a a mortar and pestle a large one yeah look I'm nearly
12:28made of chocolate
12:28it's nearly there it definitely smells chocolate it's really it's recognizable as chocolate so far
12:37for the majority of Mayans and Aztecs chocolate was a drink only to be taken on special occasions to
12:44celebrate a birth a marriage or mourn a death the nobility would drink it more frequently as they could
12:51afford the costly ingredients it was said that the Aztec Emperor Montezuma sometimes drank 50 cups of
12:58chocolate each day though that seems a bit over the top so the qualities of this drink would be foreign
13:04invigorating and for health purposes yeah actually the this beverage was used for different purposes
13:10the first the main one we know it was to bring a boost for the body and the other purpose
13:16of using
13:18this beverage for us for making offerings to the gods to get the favors of the gods they have to
13:24make
13:24offerings to them so what did they offer to them they offered what's the most valuable like cocoa beans
13:30and also blood blood so they added some blood to in the beverage I'm not drinking this no but we
13:38need
13:38to add some blood into it so they use some tools to well slit their earlobs the tongue or the
13:47lips to spill
13:48some blood onto it but today we have a substitute that they also used it was called the acuity you
13:56use it before we grind acuity was a natural food coloring produced by the fruit of a small tree you
14:04can
14:05tell how important the cocoa bean was to these American civilizations by the fact that it was used as
14:11money a 16th century Spanish chronicler noted that a prostitute could be bought for 10 cocoa beans
14:17while a slave was worth 100. there you have the molinio molinio molinio molinio molinio molinio it's a
14:29Spanish word okay yeah okay and it's used for straight in yeah then you twist it in your hands
14:43oh look at that hmm I'm not sure what to expect from this but here goes
14:52well it's a bit bitty
14:57it's a bit bitty and it's it's very hot as in spicy my god
15:03the light is this way actually
15:07you're gonna be good for a full day maybe a week yeah I can imagine after a drink of this
15:13you'd face
15:14the world yeah no enemy would be strong enough okay um if Montezuma drank 50 cups of this a day
15:20he must have had cast iron bowels I think it smells a lot better than it tastes a lot better
15:29hmm it wasn't long before the conquerors of the Aztecs the Spanish conquistadors took an interest in
15:36this rare foodstuff and soon chocolate made the journey to Spain almost as soon as Europeans had
15:43discovered chocolate they were speculating about whether it was good or bad for them many like
15:49Parisian dr. Joseph Bashaw sang its praises he wrote chocolate well-known is an invention so noble
15:57that it should be the nourishment of the gods rather than nectar or ambrosia
16:14this is one of my favorite chocolate shops in the heart of Lyon and whenever I come to Lyon I
16:20always come here and stock up it is just unbelievable I mean it's almost playful I mean look lipstick
16:29chocolate edible chocolate lipstick but made with real chocolate proper chocolate
16:42even CDs in the shape of chocolate you can't play them but you can eat them wonderful mixtures of
16:51oranges figs pralines but what I absolutely adore with this shop is the name that they give to their
16:59chocolates for example bar anti stress you eat this and all your stresses all your worries go away
17:09here we have look conquistador this big monster here and I this is this is a particular chocolate
17:20that between myself and my daughter we used to fight over this fight over this it's such a delicious
17:26delicious delicious chocolate it's more than a chocolate it's a dessert but then there's also
17:34buchette aphrodisiac yes I think I will take one of these home with me
17:47when chocolate made the journey from the new world to the old it underwent a major transformation so the
17:54conquistadors arrived in Mexico they tasted this wonderful food drink kind of and took it back with
18:02them that's right that's great they tweaked it they made a little bit yeah they made some change of
18:07course the the one who brought by the recipe to the the Spanish king was Cortez Hernan Cortez and he
18:17when
18:17he brought by this recipe of course it was not suiting the European tastes of course as we saw earlier
18:25so we're
18:28basically have kind of the same ingredients but missing some and adding new ones so we are removing the
18:38chili yeah we still got some pepper but in lower quantities we have new spices the most important one is
18:47sugar yeah they added sugarcane and of course for the European taste they added hazelnuts almonds any seeds
19:01cinnamon straightaway this looks a lot more appealing to me appealing and interesting and
19:07then palatable so a little bit of crushed up clove pepper and aniseed and into hot water this was a
19:14hot drink that's hot water yeah yeah we drink it hot here we go whoop I will hold it still
19:20still a
19:21bit of work to go into it though that's necessary better had servants to do that yeah really you you
19:28the servants day that was preparing the beverage was called the Molina Molina that was a woman as
19:35well so there would be a dedicated person just for making the chocolate they were very rich so here we
19:41have a beverage made out of water basically yes and the first writings about using milk are in 1700s so
19:50we still have to wait a little while let's we try it yeah quite good actually you did well it's
20:05not
20:05unpleasant maybe I could have put a bit more chocolate in and true I like sweet yeah yeah but
20:13it's not too spicy it's really different it's not before chocolate didn't stay long in Spain despite the
20:26Spanish having a temporary monopoly of cocoa bean production through its American conquests soon this new
20:33indulgence found its way to the very center of European power the planet of your site is one of the
20:52most
20:52extraordinary royal courts of Europe built in the 17th and 18th century by the bourbon dynasty of France
21:00amongst all this extravagance and opulence it really is no surprise that chocolate and the drinking of
21:08chocolate found its home here
21:09and it's all that fully
21:28How did the chocolate come to the school come to the court? Well,
21:31Well, I would say that it was completely normal with royal marriage.
21:37Because we know that Louis XIII, the father of Louis XIV,
21:42was married in Autriche.
21:44She was called Autriche, but in fact, she was a princess.
21:47She was from Spain.
21:50Like his father, Louis XIV also married a Spanish princess, Marie-Thérèse.
21:56Her love of chocolate meant it became a firm court favourite,
22:00served at all the parties given by the king.
22:04This grand gallery is part of the great official apartments of the king,
22:09in which he gave very regularly.
22:12He decides that three times a week
22:14he receives the entirety of the court in his apartments,
22:18after the dinner of the evening.
22:20And each of these rooms has a specific function in his amusement of the court.
22:26So, there is the place where there are the buffets,
22:33which are offered the drinks, the drinks, the coffee, the chocolate.
22:39This is in the Salon de l'Abondance.
22:42It was difficult to imagine, in a place so spectacular,
22:49that they had the possibility of making chocolate,
22:54the coffee, and that it was a ritual even.
22:57It was not just a special drink.
23:00It wasn't a special drink, since its rare taste,
23:06it was just a señor.
23:07It was a good taste and a good taste.
23:11It was a good taste of the coffee,
23:13which was really fantastic.
23:14with, first, objects that were all more beautiful than others.
23:19He was very generous, then.
23:21He was very generous.
23:23He wanted people to be always exhausted by his grandeur,
23:28by his generosity, by his munificence.
23:33Chocolate was all about pleasure.
23:36Every type of pleasure.
23:48After I've sort of really had a nice feel of it,
23:50I just feel really relaxed, almost like an orgasm.
23:59Chocolate and romance are inextricably linked together.
24:03I mean, after all, who doesn't like to give or receive a box of chocolates?
24:07It does warm the heart.
24:08But it is in this era that chocolate gained its reputation
24:12as an aphrodisiac.
24:14It stimulates the blood circulation,
24:17aids in lovemaking,
24:19especially to these naughty kings and mistresses.
24:24Given its reputation as an aphrodisiac,
24:27it's no wonder that drinking chocolate was a favourite of courtesans,
24:30such as Madame Du Barry,
24:31the last official mistress of Louis XV.
24:35Madame Du Barry buvait du chocolat, quand même.
24:38Madame Du Barry,
24:40comme beaucoup de personnes au XVIIIe siècle,
24:43buvait du chocolat
24:45parce qu'il avait été introduit un siècle plus tôt à la cour
24:48et il était dit par ceux qui étaient les défenseurs du chocolat,
24:53parce qu'il y avait aussi des détracteurs,
24:55que le chocolat était bon pour attiser les ardeurs de Vénus.
25:02Donc tout cela, évidemment, est lié au rôle aphrodisiac
25:07que l'on pensait pouvoir attribuer au chocolat.
25:11Ah, et on se retrouve ici, là, dans sa chambre.
25:14Absolument.
25:19You can tell the importance of drinking chocolate
25:22as part of a daily ritual of the powerful and wealthy in the 18th century
25:26by the number of portraits it features in.
25:29C'est le portrait de Louise de Bourbeau, Mademoiselle de Charolais,
25:33qui est une des filles du roi Louis XV
25:35et qui est présentée dans un habit de moines,
25:38des moines cisterciens, avec une tasse de chocolat.
25:42Le chocolat ici, définitivement.
25:44Le chocolat est là.
25:46On voit cette princesse qui est en train d'hésiter
25:50entre la vie spirituelle et la vie temporelle.
25:53Donc elle veut bien faire un petit peu de religion, mais sans trop.
25:57Et puis de toute façon, même si elle rentrait,
25:59comme certaines de ses sœurs, dans les ordres religieux,
26:04cela ne l'empêcherait pas de continuer à goûter les plaisirs terrestres
26:07avec un très bon chocolat chaud avec du sucre.
26:10Oui, oui. Très belle femme, très belle femme.
26:13Les filles de Louis XV étaient magnifiques.
26:17Un autre chocolat de Fabrice.
26:20Un autre chocolat de Fabrice.
26:20Ceci serait au cours de Versailles.
26:23Il y a de la Côte d'un côté de Versailles.
26:24Il y a de la Côte d'un côté.
26:25Et je pense que nous devons avoir l'egg-yolk en ça.
26:29L'egg-yolk en fait.
26:29Parce que l'egg-yolk est bien beau.
26:31Il va avoir une vraie richesse.
26:36L'egg-yolk en.
26:40Oh, look at that.
26:43Oh, yes.
26:46Mmm.
26:49Oh, yes.
26:57That's what I know.
26:59Maybe better.
27:01Mmm.
27:02Yeah.
27:04Oh.
27:05Congratulations, you did well.
27:07Very well.
27:08This is proper drinking chocolate.
27:20The 1700s saw a revolution in drinking habits.
27:24Tea and coffee came to Europe and the café was born.
27:28Here in the Prokop, one of the oldest cafés in Paris,
27:31chocolate became a drink the wealthy middle class could enjoy.
27:35Even before the French Revolution,
27:37the practice of drinking chocolate
27:39was moving out of the courts and palaces
27:41and into the cafés.
27:51Writers, thinkers and public figures
27:53would set the world to rights over a cup of hot chocolate.
27:57And here in Le Prokop,
28:00Voltaire would enjoy his chocolate
28:02with other members of the French Enlightenment.
28:05Chocolate was no longer the food of kings.
28:15It's worth reflecting on the fact that this explosion
28:18in the drinking of tea, coffee and chocolate
28:20was driven by slave labour.
28:22It wasn't just sugar plantations that were worked by slaves in this period.
28:30In 1800, Sulpice de Beauve, former pharmacist to Louis XVI,
28:35opened up his first chocolate shop in Paris.
28:38It was a sign that chocolate was undergoing a transition
28:41from liquid to solid, from drinking chocolate to sweets.
28:46The more I see you
28:48The more I want you
28:54The more I want you
28:55Somehow this feeling
28:57Just girls and girls
29:01Chocolate in the 18th century was like caviar is today,
29:05an expensive delicacy.
29:07But it was treated with reverence.
29:10And thankfully, in these Parisian chic boutiques, it still is today.
29:15I mean, chocolate is a serious business in France,
29:18not to be taken lightly.
29:20La la la la
29:25This is one of the Parisian chocolate shops
29:28of top French chocolatier Jean Paul Levin.
29:31You might think you're in a high-end jewellers
29:33or an haute couture boutique.
29:36This is what's unique about chocolate in France.
29:39A mix of style, the best ingredients,
29:42superb craft and a playful vision.
29:46Yes, that's right.
29:47It's a chocolate stiletto.
29:49Can you imagine
29:53How much I love you
29:57The more I see you
30:01As years go by
30:05I know the only one for me
30:09Can only be you
30:13My arms won't free you
30:16And my heart won't try
30:22In his kitchen, Jean Paul combines state-of-the-art machinery
30:26with craft skills that have existed for centuries.
30:29Because it's more precise in the quality of crystallization.
30:35It allows you to have a brilliance.
30:36Impeccable for each article.
30:39And here, for example,
30:40This is the design for the jet d'eau.
30:42Wow.
30:43It's impossible to do if we didn't have this machine.
30:45And it's precise.
30:47In the millimetres.
30:49There's nothing to do.
30:50There's nothing to do.
30:52There's a finishing in the hands.
30:55There's a lot to do.
30:56I love it.
30:57Because there's a super performance machine.
30:59But there is always this manual gesture.
31:06Do you want to go with one?
31:08I love the gingembre.
31:11Ah, it's good.
31:13The gingembre is good.
31:20It's not too strong.
31:22It's perfect.
31:23It's not too sweet.
31:24There's a little acidity.
31:25It's good too.
31:26It's good.
31:27It's good.
31:28It's good.
31:29It's good.
31:31But that's the quality.
31:34Wow.
31:41All great chocolatiers have their signature piece.
31:45For Jean-Paul, it's the edible stiletto.
31:48Voilà.
31:50Je regarde les autres.
31:54Wow.
31:58Wow.
31:58I don't find anything.
32:01I don't find anything.
32:02It's like this.
32:06It's like this.
32:06It's like this.
32:07How long do you learn how to make a shirt like this?
32:14This is not obvious.
32:15It's something we learn.
32:16Three months.
32:17It's a minimum of a dozen years to start to understand and take the chocolatier.
32:29So he's just putting a little bit of edible varnish on it, which gives it that lovely shine.
32:34It looks like a, well now it really does look like a very expensive shoe.
32:37A really expensive shoe.
32:39Butchie peas.
32:45It needs to come down in temperature.
32:47You can't find something that I love.
32:49I like it.
32:56I like it.
32:57You know what I love.
32:57You are the man.
33:01You're the man on the way.
33:09For chocoholics and shoe fetishists everywhere, the Jean-Paul Évin shoe.
33:15It might come in several colours, but unfortunately, only in one size, 35, and only for the right foot.
33:24According to the chocolate manufacturers, one of the things we want is chocolate that sounds good.
33:30So, at this research laboratory, they're trying to create a chocolate bar that makes the right sound when you snap
33:36it.
33:43Debate has raged ever since Europeans discovered chocolate as to whether it's good or bad for you.
33:49Currently, some extraordinary claims are being made for the health-giving benefits of chocolate.
33:55Dites-moi, le chocolat, pour moi, première chose, j'aime le manger, je trouve que ça me fait du bien.
34:01Mais est-ce que c'est vrai ?
34:03Tout à fait. Il y a des effets à la fois bénéfiques sur le psychisme.
34:08C'est pour ça qu'on se sent mieux ou qu'on est content quand on en a mangé.
34:12Et puis ça, c'est peut-être moins évident de façon immédiate.
34:15Il y a d'autres effets sur la circulation sanguine, sur le cholestérol.
34:20Il y a des effets protecteurs multiples, au-delà de la simple sensation de bien-être.
34:27Et aujourd'hui, ce qui les intéresse, c'est plutôt les maladies dégénératives,
34:32peut-être la prévention de la maladie d'Alzheimer.
34:36Ou, bon, il y a des études sur certains types de cancers.
34:42Dans le chocolat, il y a des polyphénols.
34:45Ce sont des molécules assez intéressantes qu'on retrouve qui sont efficaces contre certains cancers.
34:54C'est vrai que le chocolat, ça doit rester un plaisir.
34:57C'est quand même la première motivation de consommation.
35:02C'est vrai. On ne va pas acheter une tablette de chocolat pour penser qu'on va se faire du
35:07bien à la santé.
35:08Non.
35:08C'est le plus, le bénéfice qu'on a avec, mais ce n'est pas la première motivation, en général.
35:16C'est pas la même chose.
35:46Cadbury's and Terry's and Fry's. The chocolate bar had come of age.
36:04In the 19th century, as chocolate moves slowly away from the chemist's shop,
36:10also all these aphrodisiac connotations tend to fade away.
36:18Chocolate becomes an item that can be given to children,
36:21which was not the case before.
36:23Until the 18th century, no child would readily have chocolate
36:29because you don't know its properties.
36:32But I would say with the development of these new techniques
36:36and the development of production,
36:38chocolate definitely had a connotation
36:41which was readily marketed by these industrialists,
36:45particularly the British ones,
36:46because most of them were Quaker
36:50and, as such, strong believers in the fight against alcoholism.
36:56And chocolate was seen as a substitute for cheap gin.
37:02And so, you know, anyone can drink chocolate.
37:05It's good for you. It's good for children.
37:08It helps restore your strength
37:10and certainly will help lead a healthy life.
37:18Applying industrial methods to making chocolate
37:20brought it within reach of ordinary people,
37:23but it also meant a dilution of the use of pure cocoa ingredients.
37:28The addition of milk, sugar and the substitution of vegetable fats
37:32for cocoa paste make chocolate sweeter and lighter in appearance.
37:39This is approximately the amount of chocolate
37:42which I used to eat every day.
37:44Four bars of half a pound each.
37:46Only black chocolate. Only plain.
37:47And I used to watch at the back.
37:49It had to have minimum 51 to 55
37:52or sometimes even 75% cocoa mass
37:55because I don't want to get into trouble legally,
37:58but, I mean, the EEC commissions, I think,
38:03they warned England that the amount of cocoa
38:07which they had in the love chocolate here
38:10didn't qualify it to be called chocolate.
38:12It should have been called Vagilate.
38:14That's true.
38:15Now, some manufacturers have obviously gone out of business
38:18because their standards have not been maintained.
38:22We are to keep going on for generations and generations.
38:26C'est-à-dire qu'il y a des pays qui ont continué,
38:29comme l'Angleterre, Grande-Bretagne,
38:31à faire des chocolats avec des matières grasses végétales.
38:35Il y a des pays qui s'y sont relativement refusés
38:39parce que, pour eux, l'image du chocolat,
38:42c'était pur beurre de cacao.
38:45Donc, la France, la Belgique, les Pays-Bas, la Suisse,
38:50globalement, ils n'ont pas mis de graisse végétale.
38:54L'argument, si vous voulez, c'était de dire
38:57c'est un peu comme si on vous disait, avec du vin,
39:02on va mettre 95% de raisins et puis 5% de jus de pomme.
39:07Sous-titrage Société Radio-Canada
39:32Sous-titrage Société Radio-Canada
39:37Sous-titrage Société Radio-Canada
39:55Comment tu as commencé dans le métier de chocolatier ?
39:58Alors, comment j'ai commencé ? D'abord, je n'aimais pas le chocolat.
40:01Ah bon ?
40:02J'ai commencé super mal.
40:03Donc, je fais un apprentissage à la fin de la troisième.
40:06En apprentissage chocolatier ou pâtissier ?
40:22C'est pas quelque chose qui...
40:23J'ai pas un feedback qui est super bon, quoi.
40:25Et pas la passion pour la pâtisserie, en fait ?
40:28Ben non, j'ai été mis là comme ça, j'ai pas choisi et c'était un peu difficile.
40:31Et plus par punition, donc, ils vont m'envoyer au poste de chocolatique, un poste de glandeur au départ, plutôt.
40:37On va faire du chocolat.
40:39Allez, et une voie de garage.
40:41Et là, ça va être l'absolue révolution et surtout, c'est là où le chef va découvrir que j
40:47'ai plein de choses.
40:48Et puis moi, la matière va me révéler. Et ça, ça va être fantastique, quoi.
40:52Like Jean-Paul Levin, Roger wears the much coveted tricolore collar on his chef's jacket.
40:57This is a sign that he's won the highest accolade his profession can bestow.
41:02Meilleur ouvrier de France.
41:05The piece of work that won it for Roger was unusual in chocolate-making circles.
41:10A life-size sculpture of a cocoa plantation worker made entirely out of chocolate.
41:16Je savais même pas que ça existait.
41:18Je connaissais pas les meilleurs ouvriers de France.
41:20Moi, je viens du Perche.
41:21Donc, j'avais aucune connaissance.
41:24J'ai jamais été dans un musée, pas pris l'avion.
41:26Donc, ça va être le début d'une révolution culturelle.
41:31Et un passeport pour le monde.
41:36C'est parti.
41:37Patrick's sculptures are made from top quality edible chocolate.
41:40Some are made for high-paying corporate clients.
41:43Others are the result of his own obsessions.
41:47The monkeys, for example, were born out of his interest in wildlife conservation.
41:52Alors, faut m'expliquer un petit peu parce que moi je suis fasciné par ces sculptures.
41:56Donc, la sculpture, ça reste encore extrêmement complexe à expliquer surtout.
42:00C'est comme le goût.
42:01Expliquer du goût, expliquer le goût de la rhubarbe, par exemple, c'est vraiment difficile.
42:05Expliquer de la sculpture, comment ça se crée, c'est loin d'être simple.
42:09Bon, je vais quand même essayer.
42:10À la base, surtout, tout démarre de chocolat qui est, en général...
42:14Alors, j'ai une technique qui est mixe, mais je travaille le chocolat liquide.
42:18Surtout, pour faire tout ça, tout part de liquide.
42:22Donc ça, il revient du magasin, donc il y a eu de la casse.
42:26Ça, c'est dans le transport.
42:27Et après, je vais restaurer.
42:28Mais, un des grands problèmes, c'est que c'est très, très lourd.
42:32Donc, aujourd'hui, il faut surtout essayer d'alléger les sculptures.
42:35Parce que déplacer, ça, ça fait presque 200 kilos.
42:38200 kilos ?
42:39C'est l'enfer.
42:40Parce que la tablette, c'est extrêmement gros en dessous.
42:42Et tout ça, c'est du chocolat.
42:44C'est du chocolat, c'est du chocolat.
43:16Donc,ường,
43:17Par exemple, on peut soulever cette main, cette patte, c'est super lourd.
43:21And that, for going to hook it up, it's difficult.
43:27It's true, it's a hand.
43:30It's splendid.
43:31The movement, the texture, it's absolutely...
43:34It's really great, it's really...
43:38It's super heavy.
43:40And the biggest piece?
43:42The biggest piece, so we touched the roof.
43:45Touching the roof?
43:45Yeah, it was 10 meters.
43:47It was a tree that we offered at Téléthon.
43:50It was a Noël, what?
43:51Noël.
43:52In chocolate.
43:53In chocolate, 4 tons.
43:554 tons?
43:554 tons.
43:56And it was...
43:57Oh, tons!
44:01For me, personally, because I love art, I love the sculptures,
44:05but for me, I think it's still...
44:07I enjoy watching this because I can feel it too.
44:10Yeah, yeah.
44:11And there are all the senses that are there.
44:13It's visual, obviously, but I feel it and I want to eat it.
44:16I want to croquer.
44:27It's time for me to try my hand at chocolate sculpture,
44:30a little repair job on a missing finger.
44:32Let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go, let's go.
44:39So, after, I really take my anatomy, to get my finger.
44:49Do you work quite fast?
44:51No, I had a chance for the sport of yesterday.
44:54Oh, it's cold.
44:55Oh, yes.
44:57Oh, yes, it's got cold hands. I mean, really cold hands.
45:45That little bit's mine.
45:48That little bit there's mine.
45:58It's time to put into practice all that I've learnt on my chocolate taste journey
46:03and create my very own chocolate at a place that supplies
46:07some of the top chefs and restaurants the world over.
46:10I'm here in the outskirts of Paris at the headquarters of Cacao Barry,
46:14more specifically the original house of Monsieur Barry.
46:18And this is the Ornois laboratory,
46:21where they specialise in making unique bespoke chocolates.
46:25That's what I'm going to do.
46:31It's all going to get very high-tech from here on in.
46:37Just to show you a bit how it works.
46:38So here, we have all the belt of chocolate.
46:42The belt of chocolate.
46:44Yes, we call that the belt of chocolate because if you take the globe,
46:48all around it, you have a belt from, this is the equator.
46:51You have the two tropics, Confessor and Capricorn.
46:54And this is where all cocoa grows.
46:56Okay.
46:57First, we're going to taste chocolate.
47:00Okay.
47:00So chocolate, that's what's created.
47:02This is pure cocoa paste.
47:04So 100-taste chocolate.
47:06We want your palate.
47:07What's interesting for me is to know your palate
47:09because we want to work with your signature taste.
47:11So it will be unique to me.
47:13Yeah.
47:13It will be unique and exclusive in the world.
47:16It will be only in Le Garboche that your customers are going to be able to taste your flavor.
47:20Your own flavor.
47:22Yes.
47:22Yes.
47:24Hello.
47:25Before the process begins, Natasha, along with chocolate maker Julie,
47:29needs to get some clues as to how I want my chocolate to taste.
47:33Definitely I want a strong, robust chocolate flavor.
47:38Okay.
47:38With a good amount of bitterness.
47:41Okay.
47:43A hint of acidity, just a little bit.
47:46Okay.
47:46I do like the idea of a roasted background.
47:49The same with the fruitiness.
47:51I want fruitiness, but not overpowering.
47:53Okay.
47:59Based on that profile, she's now going to offer me a variety of chocolate to sample.
48:13Like a coconut liqueur.
48:15Yeah.
48:15Yeah.
48:17Nutty.
48:18Yeah.
48:18Yeah.
48:19Definitely.
48:20I like the floral note to it.
48:21Okay.
48:22Coconut cream, kind of.
48:24That's it.
48:24Coconut cream.
48:25Definitely.
48:26Mmm.
48:28I'll give you a bit more this time.
48:36I like that.
48:36I like that as well.
48:42And unlike wine tasting, we don't spit it out.
48:47It's got a nice flavor.
48:48I was going to say it's well rounded.
48:50Exactly that.
48:50But it's lacking in identity.
48:52Yeah.
48:52Okay.
48:53Can we go stronger?
48:55I think we could go stronger than that.
49:00Straight away, that's better.
49:01Oh yeah.
49:02Got a nice crunch to it.
49:04Nice feel to it.
49:05Mouth feel.
49:05It's very important too.
49:07I like that.
49:08Yep.
49:10From solid chocolate, we move to pure cocoa paste.
49:14First, it's just the smell.
49:18Oh.
49:19Yeah.
49:25Oh, that's unbelievable.
49:27Okay.
49:27Right.
49:28I need to go back to this one.
49:30Go ahead.
49:31Look at the color also.
49:32It's much darker.
49:42This one I found very interesting.
49:44I thought it had a bit of a mushroomy flavor.
49:46A bit musky.
49:47Be one.
49:48Okay.
49:49After the smell, it's time to taste.
49:53But only in tiny amounts.
49:56So concentrated are the flavors.
49:58It's not easy to taste this without the sugar.
50:01That is not easy.
50:02But I really do like the bitterness of this.
50:04And there's a hint of fruit in there as well.
50:06Okay.
50:07I'm getting good at this.
50:08Now, I've even got to taste the bean to compare it to the paste.
50:14Mmm.
50:15You feel the fruit here, huh?
50:16You really feel the fruit.
50:18That's fruit.
50:18Very fruity.
50:19Very, very fruity.
50:21Mmm.
50:21I like that.
50:22I like that a lot.
50:24Very interesting.
50:25Mmm.
50:26Do you want to know where they come from now?
50:28Oh, yes.
50:28So, A1, we are traveling to Cuba.
50:32Cuba?
50:32I've never been.
50:33I want to go to Cuba.
50:35So, we have Cuba.
50:37So, in Cuba, the plantations are more on this part.
50:40Then we have Santo de Nouveau.
50:43And we have a bit of Venezuela.
50:45So, you're an American guy.
50:49I'm sorry.
50:50And there was...
50:51Asia, Asia, you don't want...
50:53Natasha and Julie have taken me on this wonderful taste train of the chocolate belt.
50:59And it's intriguing because I always thought that I wanted chocolate that had certain acidity and certain notes of bitterness.
51:10But I've actually found out my taste buds wanted something completely different.
51:14The one thing that I've learned is that chocolate is very, very complex.
51:18And it's not just one taste.
51:21It's extraordinary.
51:23And it's not just taste.
51:25It's also smell and texture.
51:29Julie's going to help us out.
51:31This is the recipe.
51:35We call this the ogle of chocolate.
51:39The what?
51:40The ogle of chocolate.
51:41Just like in a...
51:42Like in a church.
51:44The ogle?
51:45Yeah, the ogle of chocolate.
51:46Yeah.
51:47So, A2, can you give me 170g?
51:53170g?
51:54Yeah.
51:55Having narrowed down the blend of chocolates used in my recipe, we're actually going to make it.
52:07It smells lovely.
52:10Mmm.
52:21I want it to be a chocolate that I can use on different desserts, but I also want to be
52:26able to offer to people a bite of the chocolate as it is.
52:30As it is.
52:30Because I think that would be the true reflection of my palette and of what I deem as a great
52:37chocolate.
52:37Yeah.
52:42This is the moment of truth.
52:44What will my chocolate taste like?
52:46It would be better to wait until it gets back to room temperature so that the taste is stabilized.
52:52It will come to temperature in my mouth.
53:12It takes all of those boxes.
53:14It's chocolatey.
53:16Yeah.
53:16Really intense chocolatey.
53:17Mm-hmm.
53:18Bitterness, sweetness, fruitiness.
53:21It's got character.
53:23It's unlike any other chocolate that I know of.
53:27It's unique.
53:33This is it.
53:34I finally got it.
53:36My chocolate.
53:37All that hard work.
53:39All that smelling and tasting and that voyage to find the kind of chocolate that I want.
53:48Mmm.
53:49I can smell that aroma.
53:51Here they are.
53:52My little chocolate beans.
53:54Now I'm going to make a chocolate dessert.
53:57Something really special.
53:59Something extravagant.
54:00Something delicious.
54:01A chocolate souffle.
54:03Now, there are no too sterner critics than my wife and daughter.
54:12So you're the first people to have Michelle's signature chocolate?
54:17Yes.
54:17The first one to try this chocolate.
54:20Better be good.
54:21Better.
54:21My daughter Emily is training to be a professional chef.
54:24So I expect her to be particularly hard on me.
54:31I'm making a chocolate souffle.
54:33A lovely, rich, dark chocolate sauce.
54:37And some chocolate cookies.
54:40But what I want is that the true flavour of the chocolate comes through.
54:45So it's not too sweet.
54:49Mmm.
54:52It's looking good enough to jump in head first.
54:56Mmm.
55:09It's looking good enough to jump in head first.
55:11And cocoa powder.
55:17That looks just about right.
55:20Mmm.
55:21That's good enough to eat as it is.
55:24This is indulgent.
55:26Chocolatey.
55:28Mmm.
55:28Mmm.
55:37No swear words.
55:39So it could be, um, it could be good.
55:42Or not.
55:43No.
55:43No.
55:45This lovely, rich, dark, bitter chocolate sauce is to pour into the souffles.
55:51And then you use the biscuits to dunk into the souffles.
55:55Mmm.
55:56They're going to love this.
56:03In this country, too often we think of chocolate as just one thing.
56:07A bar or a slab of sugary milk confectionery.
56:10But on my journey, I've discovered that it's many things.
56:14It's an extremely complex and sophisticated foodstuff
56:18that can embrace a myriad of flavours and textures.
56:21Well, it's a bit bitty.
56:22It's history is connected with the rise and fall of empires,
56:26the lives of monarchs and the Industrial Revolution.
56:29And no wonder chocolate has been associated with romance for centuries.
56:34What better expression of love is there than the gift of chocolate?
56:39Looks good.
56:40Yes, looks very delicious.
56:43I like the slight wobbliness of it.
56:46Now, you need some chocolate sauce in this.
56:48Try anything.
56:50Yes. You ready for it?
56:53Mmm.
56:55Yes, please.
56:59Yum.
57:00That looks delicious.
57:02And a chocolate cookie.
57:04To go with it?
57:05Yes.
57:06That's too much chocolate there.
57:07No, no, no.
57:08Never too much chocolate.
57:11Shall I go for it?
57:12Shall I not burn myself?
57:15Mmm.
57:19Mmm.
57:20Very tasty.
57:23Mmm.
57:23Looks hot.
57:24But it's not too, too hot.
57:28Mmm.
57:29Intense in chocolate, that's for sure.
57:32Intense.
57:32Not too sweet, which is nice.
57:34Yeah.
57:35It's very intense, but nice.
57:37Yeah.
57:37Flavor.
57:38Intense chocolatey enough?
57:39Mmm.
57:41Delicious.
57:41What about the cookies?
57:42I prefer the souffle.
57:44Let me try the cookie on its own.
57:46Mmm.
57:48That is even more intense.
57:50That's so delicious.
57:52It's a chocolate lover's dream.
57:54Yeah.
57:55No, it's perfect.
57:56Mmm.
57:56Mmm.
57:57So is this good enough?
57:59Definitely good enough, Chef.
58:01Was it worth my trip to find the best possible chocolate?
58:07Definitely worth it.
58:08For sure.
58:09Oh.
58:10Oh.
58:10Mmm.
58:11Mmm.
58:12This is my chocolate.
58:13My very own mix of chocolate.
58:16I'm very...
58:16Good choice.
58:17I'm...
58:18I'm really pleased with it.
58:20I'm really...
58:20Are you proud of yourself?
58:21Yeah, I am.
58:22Well done, Beth.
58:23I am.
58:24So you should be, darling.
58:30Next tonight, episode three of ATE's nuclear thriller, Edge of Darkness.
58:34Will Emma's killer tell Craven who hired him?
58:37And then at 10 to 11, here on BBC Four, Richard Forty is unearthing the magic of mushrooms
58:42with a trip through the fascinating world of fungi.
58:45Don't miss it.
58:46Oh, my God.
58:54In the lead.
58:54Fuck it.
58:55So, well, yeah.