Great Japanese Railway Journeys Season 1 Episode 13

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Embark on an unforgettable adventure through Japan's breathtaking railway network in the inaugural episode of "Great Japanese Railway Journeys." This season premiere invites viewers to discover the intricate beauty and cultural significance of Japan's iconic trains.  Join us as we explore the diverse landscapes and vibrant cities that these railways connect. From bustling metropolises to serene rural vistas, experience the efficiency and artistry that define Japanese rail travel. Uncover the history and innovation that have shaped this essential part of Japanese life.  This episode delves into the heart of Japan's transportation system, showcasing the unique experiences offered by its various routes. Witness the seamless integration of technology and tradition that makes exploring Japan by train an unparalleled experience.  #JapaneseRailways #JapanTravel #TrainJourneys

Transcript

00:04Japan.

00:05Michael, welcome to Japan, a railway paradise.

00:08Its huge population spread over Long Islands lives by its railways.

00:13I feel like I'm driving.

00:14My new adventure takes me through the land that launched the high-speed train.

00:19I love Shinkansen.

00:21Where millions of journeys are made each day through some of the most bustling stations on Earth.

00:27Busy city.

00:28I'll ride Japan's vast railway network to uncover a land of bold innovation.

00:35Haven't quite got the hang of it yet.

00:37A place of enduring traditions, volatile geology and remarkable people.

00:44Kanpai.

00:45Join me on an excursion like no other.

00:48I'm too excited to sit down.

01:06This morning I'm travelling at speed, thrusting north on the super-fast bullet train.

01:14Japan's largest island, Honshu, is about 800 miles long, with Tokyo not far off its centre point.

01:22With such enormous distances and a dynamic population of 120 million people, you can see why this country opted for

01:32high-speed rail.

01:34Having left the capital behind, I'm now travelling on the longest of the Shinkansen routes to Tohoku, which is an

01:42area that comprises a fifth of Japan's landmass, with only a tenth of its inhabitants.

01:48A region of farmers and fishermen.

01:53The countryside had passed.

01:57The countryside had passed.

02:21The port city of Otaru will be my final destination.

02:34My first stop today is Fukushima.

02:37With a population of 290,000, it's surrounded by mountains, with the O-Range on the west and the Abu

02:45-Kuma Highlands to the east.

02:50At Fukushima, the lines divide, a Y shape, and so the front part of the train will go in one

02:57direction, the rear part is another.

02:58And now I discover that my two Shinkansens joined together were different colours and different models.

03:22The Fukushima area is part of the rural Tohoku region, known as the rice granary of Japan.

03:30Thirty miles northwest of the city, I'm visiting Watanabe farm in the Yamagata prefecture, where rice has been cultivated for

03:39over 2,000 years.

03:42Rice has always been a staple for the Japanese people.

03:45And although their annual consumption is now about half of what it was in the 1960s, each person is still

03:53eating almost 57 kilograms per year.

03:57The cultivation of rice historically involved families, small farmers working together to share out the water and bring in the

04:06harvest.

04:09The farm is run by Kyoichi Watanabe, who is also chairman of the Local Producers Association.

04:18Watanabe-san, konnichiwa.

04:21Konnichiwa.

04:34Konnichiwa.

04:35Konnichiwa.

04:37Konnichiwa.

04:38Konnichiwa.

04:39Konnichiwa.

04:40Konnichiwa.

04:42Konnichiwa.

04:44Konnichiwa.

04:45Konnichiwa.

04:48Konnichiwa.

04:49Konnichiwa.

04:50Konnichiwa.

04:53Konnichiwa.

04:54Konnichiwa.

04:55Konnichiwa.

04:57Konnichiwa.

04:58Konnichiwa.

04:59Konnichiwa.

05:00Konnichiwa.

05:01Konnichiwa.

05:03Konnichiwa.

05:04Konnichiwa.

05:05across more than 30 acres, produces 40 tons of rice every year.

05:09Please.

05:12Japanese onigiri.

05:14Onigiri.

05:15Two sorts.

05:20Beautiful.

05:21Thank you so much.

05:26Delicious.

05:27Very good.

05:29Is it a family business?

05:37Is it very hard work?

05:39Of course.

05:40And they're all working.

05:42If the weather is raining, they can't do anything.

05:49Although the farm is run as an independent business,

05:52it works in collaboration with 27 other local growers.

06:17It's very interesting what you say to me.

06:19Because I think rice in Japan has always been a collective activity between different families,

06:26and farmers, and it seems that it still is today.

06:30The farm sends some of its brown rice away to be polished and turned into white rice.

06:35The rest is processed here on site.

06:38All this machinery here, what does this do?

06:54The hulling machine removes the husk from the grain and processes a sack of rice every 90 seconds.

07:00The produce from the field starts here.

07:03It comes into this machine, where it shapes, shudders, and separates.

07:13The machine sings to you when the bag is full.

07:18Lovely.

07:19Beautiful.

07:19Ready for market.

07:25Michael, what do we do?

07:27After you.

07:32The paddy field has been drained, ready for the harvest.

07:36And after rain stopped work yesterday, Kyoichi's son, Kyohei, is making the most of the sunshine.

07:43I've been working here for 47 years.

07:48I've been working here for 47 years.

07:50I've been working here for 4 years.

07:52I've been working here for 4 years.

07:53I've been working here for 5 years.

07:57Can I drive back?

07:59Oh yeah, I'd love to.

08:02Hello, konnichiwa!

08:04Love to see you.

08:06Thank you very much.

08:09On.

08:10On?

08:10On.

08:11Yep.

08:13Let's go.

08:18Let's go.

08:28I never saw myself as a rice farmer but I am enjoying this so much like that like that

08:47Okay

08:50Haven't quite got the hang of it yet

08:57Very good

09:00Thank you so much

09:02Arigato

09:04What do you think?

09:10Oh

09:11I really enjoyed it. That was fantastic. Have I ruined your field?

09:14It's okay

09:15It's okay

09:42It's okay

09:44It's okay

09:48It's okay

10:04It's okay

10:18It's okay

10:29It's okay

10:45It's okay

10:59It's okay

11:04It's okay

11:05It's okay

11:06We have stopped

11:06Back to the Sendai

11:08My next stop will be the port city of Sendai which found itself at the center of the disaster

11:32With a population of just over a million, Sendai is the largest city in the Tohoku region and the capital

11:39of the Miyagi Prefecture

11:42It was the first to be hit by the tsunami and the region suffered the greatest loss of life as

11:49waves traveled as far as six miles inland

11:53To discover how the tragedy unfolded here on that notorious Friday afternoon

11:58I'm meeting British expat Luke Happel who was working for the local government at the time

12:09Luke, we're standing here on what appears to be quite a new sea defense

12:12But the area here is very sparse in trees and buildings

12:15So this is the aftermath of the disaster

12:18Absolutely

12:19The tsunami actually came about 10 kilometers inland from this part of the coast here

12:24And in places it was 10 meters high in some places 20 meters high and I think the highest recorded

12:29height was 40 meters

12:31What was your position at the time? What was your role?

12:35So I was in Japan on a exchange teaching program looking after English teachers from various countries that were living

12:42across Miyagi Prefecture

12:44And part of that role was disaster preparedness and safety confirmation

12:48But this is not something we ever thought we'd have to do

12:51Where were you on the day and how did it unfold?

12:55So I was in my office when I first started to feel the shaking

12:59I'd experienced many earthquakes but we started to realize that this one was different

13:04I sat under the desk with my helmet on

13:07You know, I did think that the building would fall down any minute and that I would, you know, I

13:11would die

13:12And I do, I remember thinking of my, you know, my family

13:17Seconds passed and eventually it settled down

13:19And we had a moment of respite before we saw the horrific footage of the tsunami coming in on the

13:29news

13:29How much later was the water after the quake?

13:32So it varies depending on which part of the prefecture

13:35But it was anything between 10 and 30 minutes

13:38We had a very big earthquake on the Wednesday before

13:40Nothing happened then, there was no tsunami

13:43So many people having initially evacuated were then caught up by the wave trying to get home

13:49And what became of your colleagues?

13:51We weren't directly affected by the wave

13:53But we did lose one of our colleagues, Taylor Anderson, in Ishinomaki Prefecture

14:00We spent the entire first night trying to get through to people

14:03She remained missing for about a week

14:05So we then made the decision that we would go to the stricken area directly to look for her

14:10And what we found there was just, you know, unimaginable destruction

14:16I got some photos here, this is a taxi just...

14:20Hurled

14:20Hurled, exactly, that's exactly the right word

14:23The power of the waves bending metal

14:25Everything piled up here, just smashed

14:29Yeah, absolutely

14:29Oh, ghastly images and terrible memories

14:33Yeah

14:33You don't live in this area anymore

14:36No

14:36So when you return, how do you feel?

14:38I have complicated feelings because I'm very happy to come back

14:42But also, it reminds me of those challenges that I had

14:46I was only planning to be here for two years

14:49I had this experience

14:50And I knew that I had to stay to help

14:53That led me to do volunteering in mental health

14:56And it really did change the course of my life

14:59I feel very privileged to have spoken to you, thank you very much

15:06This stretch of coast was once the neighbourhood of Arahama

15:11With 800 houses and over 2,000 residents

15:15Its former junior school, just 700 metres from the shoreline

15:19Was one of the few buildings left standing that day

15:24As the tsunami approached, pupils, teachers and local residents

15:28Took refuge on its roof

15:32The man in charge of their safety that day

15:35Was school principal Takao Kawamura

15:40Kawamura sensei

15:41Hello

15:42Hello

15:43Michael Portillo

15:45What an honour

15:48I'm very moved to see the destruction of the school where you were principal

15:56Kawa Mura

15:57I wonder, could you please show me

15:59Up to the roof

16:01Kawa Mura

16:02Thank you

16:06320 people

16:08Including 71 of the school's young pupils

16:11Were directed to gather here

16:13By principal Kawamura

16:20Kawamura sensei

16:23The new school

16:23I recognize this roof

16:24From the photographs on the day of the disaster

16:27Was it something that you thought about

16:29That you've rehearsed

16:31That you've practiced for

16:32This school was a first school

16:35The first school was a first in the first胡

16:50After the earthquake, were you thinking a tsunami is possible?

17:02So you and the children must have seen the tsunami?

17:14It must have been a terrifying sight.

17:20Were you able to save all the children who were in the school that day?

17:49I'm very sorry. Very sorry about that.

17:53What happened to the school? I've seen photographs. Tell me about the destruction below us.

17:59Our school's周り has become a sea. The tsunami has arrived at 4.6m.

18:08We arrived at the school at the high level.

18:12We were all in the water.

18:16Thanks to a well-organised evacuation and the strength of this four-storey building, everyone from the roof was airlifted

18:24to safety.

18:25But tragically, up to 200 people in the Arahama area lost their lives.

18:31What did you learn that day about human nature?

18:40It was many years ago now, but I congratulate you on your success in saving all those children that day.

19:02Hearing this harrowing story of the catastrophe, I try to draw some consolation from the fact that people obviously behaved

19:11so wonderfully with such great humanity towards each other.

19:16But then that raises the question, if I found myself caught up in such a situation, how well would I

19:24do?

19:31The land along this coast is no longer suitable for building, but in 2021, rail company JR East redeveloped 27

19:41acres as a pick-your-own fruit park for visitors and nearby restaurants.

19:48The school never reopened, but the community chose to preserve it as a museum and monument to the disaster.

20:13Back at Sendai Station, I'm catching an early morning train on the Senseke line.

20:24My destination is the town of Shio Gama, just 10 miles east.

20:31Located on the Pacific coast, it has for a very long time been a major fishing port and remains one

20:37of the most important in Japan.

20:40Fish markets are held on the wharf side, and this morning chefs and wholesalers are gathering for the daily tuna

20:48auction.

20:52Just 15 years ago, the prized bluefin tuna was pushed to the brink of extinction by overfishing.

21:00But following the introduction of strict catch quotas and new protective legislation, the population has recovered dramatically.

21:09The Japanese people have a great taste for raw fish, which must, of course, be exquisitely fresh.

21:17The experts are inspecting the catch, ready to make their bids.

21:22The markets director is Nobuyuki Iwamoto.

21:27I'm Michael.

21:28I'm very impressed by the tuna here today.

21:31The bidders who are inspecting the fish, what kind of thing are they looking for?

21:35The fish, the shape, the thickness, the thickness, the thickness, the thickness, the thickness, the thickness, the thickness, the thickness,

21:48the thickness, the thickness.

21:51Today, bad weather has seriously reduced the catch.

21:56The fish will be quite good.

21:59Where will the fish go to?

22:01I think it's almost in Tokyo.

22:02I think it's very important.

22:06Today, the bidders easily outnumber the tuna, which means it's going to be highly competitive.

22:17A lot of shouting.

22:37It's over.

22:39It's over.

22:40That's what they call an open outcry auction.

22:43I've never seen anything happen so fast.

22:45The largest of the fish, weighing in at around 100 kilograms, sold for almost £1,900 each.

22:53I guess the bidders don't know exactly what they're in for.

22:57Now they find out what quality they've bought, whether they've got a bargain or not.

23:07With the range of fresh fish and seafood for sale here on the harbour side, Shio Gama has more sushi

23:14restaurants per capita than anywhere in the country.

23:19Across the bay, close to the town centre, traditional restaurant Kameki Sushi has been serving diners for 80 years.

23:28I've been invited to a private tasting by MasterChef Masahiro Hoshi.

23:35Hoshi-san.

23:36Konnichiwa.

23:38I'm Michael.

23:39How are you?

23:40Thank you very much.

23:42You have beautiful tuna.

23:43I've been to the fish market.

23:45I've seen the fresh fish arriving.

23:46Why do you get such good tuna in this part of Japan?

23:49There is a great big tuna, which is a big tuna in the land.

24:05That is magnificent.

24:07This is a great buffalo.

24:12One of the big tuna, is, like, big tuna.

24:36I'm entirely in your hands.

24:37First of all, it's the most delicious part of the red meat.

24:44It's called a carbon-like salt.

24:49I'm going to put it on the fish on the top of the fish.

24:54The sushi is the right way to eat it with your hands.

24:59If you eat it with your hands, you'll be able to eat it with your hands.

25:05You'll be able to eat it with your hands.

25:08Wow.

25:09I'm going to put it all in, in one go.

25:13Here it goes.

25:19That is wonderful.

25:21It just melts in the mouth.

25:23I'm going to put it all in, in one go.

25:26So this is now my middle piece.

25:29Same thing?

25:31All in one go?

25:32Yes, all in one go.

25:34I'm going to put it with your hands.

25:36Please take a drink with your hands.

25:43A bit fatier.

25:45A wonderful piece of fish.

25:47I've been too many sushi bars around the world.

25:50And sometimes I've seen those plates on conveyor belts.

25:53And that now seems like a blasphemy.

25:57Because this is how it should be done.

26:00I'm going to take a drink with your hands.

26:05I'm going to take a drink with your hands.

26:06It's already been cooked for 10 days.

26:08If you don't want to eat it, it won't be delicious.

26:11If you don't want to eat it, it's easy to cook.

26:12If you cook it, it's like this.

26:14It's easy to cook.

26:16I'm going to take a little drum roll now because I've reached the climax of my tuna tasting.

26:21And it's extraordinary, isn't it?

26:22I mean, this could be a completely different fish.

26:24The colour is different.

26:26The texture is different.

26:27The tuna has so many varied parts.

26:31The tuna has so many different kinds of fish.

26:35Master, we have left the best for last.

26:38That is sensational.

26:40May I ask you, how long have you been preparing this delicious fish for people?

26:49That's extraordinary.

26:50I'm so privileged to have enjoyed your skills today.

26:54Thank you so much.

27:13Cooperation is a vital part of Japanese culture.

27:18I sometimes find the consultative decision-making here a bit frustrating

27:22because it can be quite slow by comparison with the West.

27:26But there's no doubt that it binds people together.

27:30Japan is prone to volcanoes, earthquakes and tsunamis.

27:35And the greatest disaster that it's ever suffered was the Second World War.

27:40But it meets each catastrophe with stoicism.

27:44And it speedily recovers with its people working in unison.

27:53Next time.

27:54Wow, look at this great big vat of soy beans.

27:58For food on an industrial scale, this feels small scale and manual.

28:03It's very charming.

28:05This is so beautiful, with great care.

28:10Ah, it's lovely.

28:13Japan is noted for its spectacular views, but surely that is one of the best.

28:18It's lovely.

28:21This is so beautiful.

28:22It's lovely to see you as you get back from.

28:22It's lovely.

28:26It's lovely to see you there.

28:32And you don't mind getting into it.

28:33And you're too lucky.

28:33That is lovely.

28:33Hey, my dear.

28:33I'm the best friend.

28:33Bye, bye.

28:37Bye, bye.

28:39Bye, bye, bye.

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