- 2 days ago
远征非洲
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TravelTranscript
00:01Previously on Expedition...
00:03Ah! We're gonna send this boat over,
00:05lose our equipment, and maybe drown.
00:07There we are, day one,
00:09and we've already lost.
00:11No way.
00:11You know we're missing, don't you?
00:12Where is Kevin?
00:13Kevin!
00:16It doesn't take very long
00:17for the harsh realities of Africa to set in.
00:21Careful!
00:22Faster!
00:23Come on, faster!
00:24We need to cross this river
00:25during the nesting season
00:26when crocs are at their most aggressive.
00:30Can I suggest we...
00:31Hold on.
00:32Hasquale is used to having things his way,
00:34and I'm not very good at obeying orders.
00:36Let me tell you guys something.
00:37Navigating by Canadian democracy
00:39is getting really hard.
00:41We've only covered nine miles.
00:43We've got 940 to go.
00:46And now on Expedition.
00:48Someone loses their footing, trips, falls.
00:51These are fatal.
00:51Go down!
00:52What about you going in front?
00:54No, no, no, it's under control, dude.
00:56He just takes charge in such a way
00:58that you want to take charge back.
01:00Give me that med kick quick, guys.
01:08When the world's greatest explorer,
01:10Dr. David Livingston,
01:11vanished deep in the heart of uncharted Africa,
01:14a young journalist, Henry Morton Stanley,
01:17began a desperate search that would become
01:19one of the greatest adventures of all time.
01:23Now, using only a compass and basic maps,
01:26four modern-day explorers are on a quest
01:28to relive the most grueling parts
01:30of Stanley's 970-mile journey
01:33to find Dr. Livingston.
01:38The End
01:39The End
01:40The End
01:42The End
01:54The End
02:05That's a beautiful view.
02:08Comes with a little bit of a price, though.
02:10It's a lot chillier here than it was
02:13where we started in the swamps.
02:18This morning, we're surrounded by all this beautiful,
02:21mountainous terrain.
02:22This next leg of our expedition
02:24actually takes us over the Uluguru Mountains,
02:27which is not actually what Stanley did.
02:30I mean, he cheated a bit.
02:31Stanley quite cunningly went around them.
02:34But, you know, we're here because
02:36we want to experience it all.
02:38We want to test ourselves.
02:40We want to keep pushing our limits.
02:42So we've decided to stray a little bit
02:44from Stanley's easier route
02:46and take the more challenging, arduous route
02:49over Uluguru Mountains.
02:55We're going to cut the kitchen in half.
02:57He's doing that right now.
02:58Half pots, yeah.
02:59Half pots, half equipment everywhere.
03:01Yep.
03:02Yep.
03:03So it's going to get a little more basic from here.
03:05Yep.
03:06Before we got started,
03:08we felt we were traveling so slow.
03:10We knew we were overweighted.
03:11Overweighted with porters.
03:12Overweighted with gear.
03:13When we got to our base camp in Uluguru,
03:16we decided to get brutal.
03:17We started cutting everything.
03:19We want to leave this here.
03:20Okay.
03:20Because it's too heavy.
03:21Yes, Chief.
03:22We leave it.
03:24We're shedding a lot.
03:25This is going to feel good.
03:26Yeah.
03:26And it's going to feel bad later on.
03:28It's a little scary because you're like,
03:30eh, last time, but you know.
03:31It's a tricky situation out here.
03:33You're trying to balance what your needs are
03:36with what is absolutely essential,
03:38but sometimes you just don't know.
03:41Okay.
03:42What we have, let me go over the big scale here.
03:44Kind of show you where we're at.
03:46We started Zanzibar, obviously.
03:48Went to Bagamoyo.
03:50Our goal here is to do an expedition
03:53in the spirit of Stanley.
03:54To retrace his expedition from Zanzibar
03:57all the way to Ujiji Tanganyika.
03:59We're going to do the same amount of distance,
04:01but we're going to try to do it 30 days,
04:02which means we're going to have to skip those big portions
04:05that now are fairly populated.
04:07We're now sitting at the edge of the Uluguru Mountains
04:10at 2,600 feet.
04:12How high elevation do we need to go?
04:13We've got to go to 6,400 feet today.
04:15We're looking at almost 3,000 feet.
04:18Oh, wow.
04:19This is going to be hard.
04:20Yeah.
04:22I've been a geologist for over 30 years.
04:24I've worked 20 years in Africa.
04:25People think of Africa as being this big, flat expanse of jungle.
04:29It's not.
04:29We get these mountain ranges,
04:30and they'll either be volcanic with volcanoes
04:32and things like that,
04:33or there'll be these big massifs,
04:34these big ranges of upthrust rock,
04:37and that's what these mountains are.
04:38So you really got to be careful,
04:39because gravity's a powerful thing in life.
04:42And if we get up in this mountain,
04:43if someone loses their footing, rolls, trips, falls, drowns,
04:47these are fatal.
04:48Okay, guys, ready to go?
04:50Let's do it.
04:5120.
04:52Okay.
04:52And we're off.
04:53There are a whole range of dangers out there just waiting.
04:57You start off up those slopes,
04:59and you are committed.
05:01No one's going to come and rescue you.
05:02You've got to get out the other side,
05:04some way or other.
05:05And we are going to have to watch it every step of the way.
05:12Wow, that's beautiful, huh?
05:14Yeah.
05:14That's great, huh?
05:15You can't see why Stanley would avoid doing this.
05:17Oh, absolutely.
05:17100%.
05:18First of all, he's not going to get a wagon over this thing, huh?
05:21No.
05:21Yeah.
05:21But to be fair, Burton and Speak were probably much better athletes than Stanley.
05:27Yeah.
05:27More than a decade before Stanley searched for Livingstone,
05:31two explorers by the name of John Henning Speak and Richard Burton
05:34actually crossed over the Uluguru Mountains in search for the source of the Nile.
05:38They were two of the toughest pioneering explorers in history.
05:43I think Burton is the best exploratory figure in British history.
05:48Stanley went through Burton and Speak's journals quite thoroughly,
05:51and he wanted to follow their path in his search for Livingstone.
05:55Start of trail, single track.
05:56But this was the one place that he deviated, the Uluguru Mountains.
06:00You know, parts of me understand it's a treacherous hike.
06:04.
06:04Ooh.
06:05Already a casualty.
06:16It doesn't look good, does it?
06:18No, it doesn't look good.
06:19This is still hot.
06:19It's up to 100 degrees.
06:21The mountains are hot.
06:22You okay?
06:23Yeah.
06:25The sun's right overhead, so it's getting hot.
06:27Any time you start approaching 100 degrees, it's drastic.
06:30You know, whenever you go up, and it's hot, and it's humid,
06:32and you have packs on, it's difficult.
06:36Nice, steady pace.
06:37It heats up these feet really fast.
06:39Yeah, yeah.
06:43Let's go.
06:44Yeah?
06:45Moderate the pace a little bit, or we're going to leave the quarters.
06:47All right.
06:48All right, I got you.
06:48I got you.
06:49These are our Bagamoya boys.
06:50They're not used to this stuff.
06:52Okay, let them just get up to this tree line, and we'll go, okay?
06:54All right.
06:55Let's go.
06:55You guys just keep pulling me back, huh?
06:58They just need to catch up.
06:59You just got to pull me back.
07:01Can't be mountain goats, guys.
07:02We got to get these guys acclimatized first.
07:04I feel it's my personal responsibility to watch out for the porters.
07:08Alois, a softy man.
07:09No, he's a superman.
07:10He's a superman?
07:11Yeah.
07:12Well, send him on up then.
07:13Let's go.
07:14Everybody has their expedition skills.
07:16Survivalist, naturist, navigator.
07:18I'm taking up the logistics work of the expedition.
07:22That entails taking care of those guys.
07:24They need to have a voice in the expedition team on their behalf, and I'm that voice.
07:29This is going to be steep for them.
07:30Yeah.
07:31I think it's not just the loads.
07:32They're lowland people.
07:33Yeah.
07:34They don't climb.
07:36I've got to be nice though.
07:37Just moderate the pace.
07:38Yeah.
07:39There's been a constant argument to start off early about the pace.
07:42I will never not push on an expedition.
07:44That's just not my style.
07:46We cannot climb mountains at such a slow pace that we can't get up the darn thing.
07:52You're going to have to get slower than that, Steven.
07:55I'm going to fall over if I go any slower.
07:57Just shorten those strides.
07:58You won't have to stop if we just moderate the pace.
08:00You're kaput.
08:01That's the problem.
08:02Way to build team morale there.
08:04I'm probably going to slow him down.
08:05Asquale just rode on up the hill, marching at a blistering pace.
08:11You've got to go at the pace of the weakest member of your team.
08:14Because otherwise, that person is going to suffer.
08:17Pull it, pull it.
08:19You guys pace, pace, pace.
08:21What about you going in front?
08:23Is that an idea?
08:24What's that?
08:24To set the two?
08:26No, no, no.
08:26It's under control, dude.
08:28It's great to be confident as a leader.
08:31But was this about egos and not leadership?
08:33How much is this about him having to be the hero?
08:37Heroes are not very useful people if they lead people into disaster.
08:43I want to know who's slowing us down, though, quarter-wise.
08:46That's a fair comment.
08:47Why don't you fire him now?
08:54Oh, my God.
08:59How bad is he?
09:01Give me a watch.
09:02Who's got a watch?
09:02Can someone just grab some water in a bucket?
09:04Should you have a second?
09:05Yes, I'll do.
09:06All right, so he's got really rapid pulse.
09:08That's pretty good.
09:09Should we just...
09:09Get the medical bag.
09:10I want to get a thermometer out of there.
09:11Talk him through this with me.
09:12Whatever I say, I want you to translate to him.
09:14Give me that med kick quick, guys.
09:15I'm going to take a pulse.
09:16That's got a really rapid pulse.
09:17And a little bit of me certainly thinks we're paying the price of his ego
09:22and that this person has dropped out of sort of collateral damage.
09:26Can we get more water?
09:27Open left.
09:28Give me the medical kick.
09:29Can you catch your breath?
09:30How serious is it?
09:32Serious.
09:41Give me that med kick quick, guys.
09:43Let's take a pulse.
09:45We get more water.
09:46Open left.
09:46Give me the medical kick.
09:47How serious is it?
09:49Serious.
09:50Almost immediately when we started crossing over the Uluguru Mountains, one of the porters
09:54went down.
09:55Whatever I say, I want you to translate to him.
09:57Does he know his name?
09:58Translate what I say.
09:59What is it?
10:00Do you know where you're at?
10:03Do you know where you're at?
10:05Do you know where you're at?
10:07Do you know what month this is?
10:11He's only at a time to one.
10:13He knows his name.
10:14Okay, thanks.
10:15I was trained as an emergency medical technician.
10:17And any time someone's down, I'm concerned for their life.
10:21And you want to make the right decisions.
10:22And if you're not in your game, you can make a wrong decision and cost that person their
10:26life.
10:26That's not something I want to live with.
10:27He's hyperventilating.
10:29He's overheated.
10:30It looks like we got a case of heat exhaustion.
10:32Leave it there.
10:33Keep it there.
10:33I got it.
10:33I got it.
10:34I was really concerned.
10:35Heat exhaustion can turn into heat stroke, which is a death sentence.
10:39If that happens, if he gets to a point where his body cooling system shuts down, then we're
10:44in serious trouble.
10:45When he went down, did he hit his head or anything, or did he just lay down?
10:48He just collapsed.
10:51Okay.
10:52We're radical right now.
10:53We just got to keep it cool.
10:55Wait a second.
10:58I want them to bring up three reporters.
11:02But the men must come immediately.
11:03The reporters must come immediately.
11:08About three people are going to come in.
11:10We'll have maybe two will take him down, and one man will carry his load.
11:14Okay?
11:15Anyways, anyways.
11:16It was Evan to me the second I saw this fella that he wasn't going anywhere.
11:21Remember, the philosophy is the expedition comes first.
11:25You know, one person's valuable, but when I have 25 people, the expedition can't stop
11:29in a dangerous, precarious situation for one person.
11:32You know, it sounds crude, it sounds coarse, but the expedition's got to go on.
11:36Respirations are coming down a lot.
11:37That's good.
11:38Pulse is kind of staying the same.
11:39I've already got three new porters coming.
11:41Everything is slowing down, getting back to normal.
11:44Oh, his head was blistering hot before.
11:47It's nice and cool.
11:48The most exciting thing I've seen on this expedition so far is the transformation of Kevin.
11:54Kevin arrived just as a journalist, but not as an explorer, just like H.M. Stanley.
12:00Come with me.
12:01And has sort of stepped forward and became the man of the moment.
12:06Well done.
12:07Congratulations.
12:09Hey, Kevin.
12:10Good job.
12:11Kevin, this is as typical as it gets on an expedition.
12:15Yeah.
12:15Is it just like this?
12:16Oh, yeah.
12:16You plan and plan and plan, and then Africa happens.
12:19I mean, seriously.
12:20Yeah, Africa happens, dude.
12:26You guys, Africa's not even an hour into the climbing.
12:29Yeah, yeah.
12:30One quarter's down.
12:30I know.
12:3115 minutes of walking, basically, is what we've done.
12:33But we do need to keep the pace slow.
12:36Otherwise, we're going to be waiting for more quarters to reach this place.
12:36All right, yeah.
12:36We'll slow it down.
12:37We'll slow it down.
12:38But then we must be persistent on keeping that pace, not stopping.
12:42That's fine.
12:42Yeah.
12:42Why don't you go ahead?
12:43I'm going ahead.
12:44He doesn't like it when I get three steps ahead.
12:46No, no, no.
12:47It's under control, dude.
12:48All right, guys.
12:49Duende.
12:50Okay.
12:51Duende, huh?
12:52Duende.
12:53All right.
12:53Duende, let's go.
12:55All right.
12:55Together, we shall climb.
12:57Slowly, we shall climb.
13:07There's a thing the Sherpas do once in a while, and I don't really do it all.
13:10It's a bounce step.
13:12What they do is they don't go flat-footed.
13:15They kind of do a bounce.
13:16Yeah, like ballerinas.
13:17Yeah.
13:20So I have a quick question for you.
13:22Yeah, go ahead.
13:23What made you feel uncomfortable about me going to the front?
13:29Uh, no, nothing.
13:30I'm just so, I mean, I was so used to leading.
13:33No, I understand.
13:34You know?
13:35And I wasn't really interested in challenging that because I don't care.
13:40Yeah.
13:40I just was curious because it was just a pace thing.
13:43Nobody was really questioning your ability to lead.
13:46Yeah.
13:46Yeah.
13:47All right.
13:48So we walk side by side then.
13:52You know, it's funny with Pasquale because he does know his stuff.
13:55He has a funny way sometimes with things, and he just takes charge in such a way that you
14:01want to take charge back.
14:02But everyone makes mistakes.
14:04You know, even the greatest of explorers make mistakes.
14:06But I definitely think that his skills can get us over these mountains safely.
14:11Check this out though.
14:12That's beautiful, isn't it?
14:14Wow.
14:14Look at that.
14:15What do you think?
14:16Do you like this countryside?
14:18Yeah, but it's a lot of mountains.
14:29Got it?
14:33All right.
14:35All right.
14:36All right, camp.
14:36This is it.
14:36Go ahead and put your loads out here against the back.
14:38On the back.
14:40All the way back against the wall, huh?
14:41We had a port go down right as we were getting up on the Ulu Gurus, and so it was
14:47disappointing
14:47in the lack of progress we made.
14:49So my hardcore rule is I have a three o'clock cutoff for trying to get to camp.
14:54Because if, for example, it's three o'clock or four o'clock and you're still on the trail,
14:59and something happens, you do not have time to take care of safety precautions, evacuations,
15:06rescues before darkness hits.
15:09Once darkness hits, there's really no options in the mountains.
15:13It's too dangerous.
15:13All right, 6,400, we're, we're two, it's 2,000 feet we have to climb probably still.
15:19It's kind of daunting.
15:20You think it's going to be the same kind of terrain we were doing today?
15:22Yeah.
15:22Yeah, I think a lot of it.
15:23Yeah, I think a lot of it.
15:24I think it's going to be really long and hard tomorrow.
15:26I dreamed about this in the swamps, being on the mountains.
15:29I know, that was really great.
15:30I'm like, ah!
15:32Panoramic view.
15:34It's unbelievable, isn't it?
15:35It's great.
15:35Look how fantastic it is.
15:37Yeah.
15:49Oh boy.
15:51When we got up to this camp, we thought, oh my God, we're in heaven.
15:54There's this beautiful panoramic view everywhere we look.
15:57It's just these gorgeous mountains.
15:58And then it just all changed all of a sudden.
16:01We need to get this puppy up.
16:03I'll hold it tight for you, okay?
16:07Got it?
16:07I got it.
16:08We're building a special tarp design.
16:10We're making like a wing out of it where we take the front of the tarp into the wind
16:15and we bury it so that the wind can't get underneath it.
16:20And then what we do is we use something called a dead man, which is basically just taking
16:25the rope, wrapping it around a piece of wood and burying this wood maybe a foot deep.
16:31Then what I do is I come up here and I put what I call a taut hitch in it.
16:36I just take the rope, come around a couple times, run it back through.
16:43It creates a slide knot to tighten it.
16:47And what it does, it tightens the rope and cancel itself.
16:58This wind is so loud, it's so strong.
17:01It's just dripping and shaking and vibrating the tarp so hard.
17:04This is so much different from this one.
17:06It's like one extreme to the other, is it?
17:08This is so windy here.
17:10This is so windy here.
17:10I don't know how we're going to sleep tonight.
17:19This is so much different from this one.
17:21It's like one extreme to the other, is it?
17:24This is so windy here.
17:42It was really, really cold last night.
17:45Last night was completely crazy because when we got here, it just seemed like such a serene,
17:50calm place to camp.
17:51And then all of a sudden we were hanging on to everything because it was a wind factory up here.
17:57All right.
17:57What else have I gone here?
17:59It's a little concerning because we all feel really tired and now we're climbing a mountain.
18:04It's not really how you want to start.
18:06I woke up hungry for the first time.
18:08We're burning calories at elevation.
18:10Yeah.
18:11So we'll be hungry at the end of the march today too.
18:13Yeah.
18:18We got about a 2,000 foot climb today.
18:20So we're right here.
18:23We're going back, back up, up, up, up, up, up to the top of the ridge back there.
18:28It's rather discouraging when you look at the map and how far we need to go.
18:32I mean, this is where we are.
18:34Oh, we've got to go here.
18:36Ooh.
18:37We traveled about, say, to scale to the map, about this much yesterday.
18:41And we've got about this much to go.
18:44And we're just not even in the mountains yet.
18:48And we were dying yesterday.
18:49It took us all day yesterday to do this.
18:51What do you think I was so freaking wigged out for?
18:53And now we've got to do this.
18:55We've got about a 2,000 foot climb today.
19:01Drink your canteens now.
19:02Drink your water bottles.
19:03Everybody understand?
19:04Hey, Julius, tell everybody I want them to drink their entire water bottle.
19:07Now.
19:08Yeah.
19:08And then refill it before we leave.
19:10From this container.
19:11Kevin emerged as this sort of leader figure.
19:14He was always a strong character from the beginning.
19:17But I didn't know how that would fit into an expedition scenario.
19:20We have a long march and we can't carry all the water we need.
19:22Yeah.
19:23He's not experienced all that much, but he's got a very keen eye.
19:28And I really trust his judgment.
19:30Right, so what pace are we taking today?
19:32Right here.
19:33We're taking the one hour to the top pace.
19:35It's my side.
19:36Okay.
19:36You're right there.
19:37I'm going off to the top.
19:39What about where are you getting ahead of?
19:41Yeah, we'll take care of it here.
19:42I can walk too.
19:43All right.
19:43All right, 20.
19:50Good day.
19:52Okay, steep.
19:54Be really careful here.
19:57I thought I was going to level out a little bit more.
20:00Yeah.
20:01You know, Stanley wasn't that stupid really.
20:04That was smart.
20:05I know, going around these things.
20:06Yeah.
20:08Yeah.
20:08It became very, very obvious early on why Stanley had avoided the Uluguru Mountains.
20:14But two of his predecessors, Burton and Speak, had crossed through the mountains.
20:18And these were tough characters.
20:21Burton, famously, on one of his earliest trips to Africa, had a spear thrown at him.
20:26And it passed through one side of his face and emerged the other.
20:30They both survived that encounter.
20:31They both decided to come back to Africa to find the source of the Nile.
20:35The great puzzle of the Victorian age.
20:37So, the Uluguru Mountains echoing with all these stories.
20:41All these characters pushing themselves just as we were.
20:45Nice being in the clouds, isn't it?
20:46Yeah.
20:47You're in the clouds, baby.
20:49You want to give these guys a breather?
20:50Are they okay?
20:52All right, 20.
20:54Pascal is tired.
20:55You want to relax?
20:56No.
20:56Go ahead.
21:03You can tell that this is one of the oldest forests in Africa.
21:06Wow, look at that.
21:07Towards the top of the slope, we entered the old forest.
21:11This is the oldest forest in Africa, 25 million years old.
21:16And it was a magnificent place.
21:18These soaring trees reaching up into the sky.
21:22And you could smell the age of them.
21:25You could hear the wildlife, the buzzing of the insects, the scratchings,
21:30the fight for life that we were going to be part of as we moved through it.
21:33Okay, good steep part here, huh?
21:37Be careful!
21:39Let's get up here.
21:41It's going to be steep on our boys.
21:43Yeah, yeah.
21:45Paule, paule, huh?
21:46Be careful.
21:48It's steep up here!
21:50Try to walk in my steps, guys.
21:53And then every time someone does, it's a little bit nicer.
21:55You guys, check this out.
21:58You'll like this, don't you?
21:59Oh, yes.
22:00A juicy slug, but it's not edible.
22:02Really nice, juicy slug.
22:04The reason why it's alive is that...
22:05Hey, guys, we got them on slopes.
22:07Everybody's on a steep slope behind you.
22:10Yeah, the tips of these ferns are edible, though.
22:12Ugh!
22:16Look at this.
22:17Look at that.
22:18How old is that?
22:19Wow.
22:21Absolutely magnificent.
22:22Is the tree kind of like almost parasitic on this one?
22:24No, they're the epiphytes.
22:26The plants are just trying to get a leg up.
22:28If they can hang on to their branch,
22:30they'll be taken up with that tree.
22:31We're trying to get over these Oodugooda Mountains.
22:33Then a couple times, I thought I was in a dream world
22:37because here we are sitting, relaxing,
22:39talking about flowers along the trail
22:40for not a little time, a long time.
22:43I'm thinking, pick the frickin' flower,
22:45put it in your pack,
22:46let's talk about it down in the bottom.
22:48All these trees are fighting for light.
22:50It's more like they can get,
22:52the more able of feed to survive.
22:56Pasquale, he is a very different person from me.
22:58The man wants to get to his destination at all costs.
23:01He doesn't want any distractions.
23:03All he cares about, really, is the end.
23:06For me, I want to try and absorb information.
23:09That's, for me, what exploration is all about.
23:12This is for malaria, isn't it?
23:14Yeah, malaria.
23:15You're boiling the water, and we drink,
23:17and we put it, and ah!
23:19Throw up?
23:20Ooh, I need to write that down.
23:22My little foot with all my specimens.
23:24Wow, it's like Darwin.
23:26God.
23:28So, if you die, we want to get your notebook, right?
23:31We'll be able to survive off that.
23:33We want the messiah.
23:35All right.
23:35Okay.
23:36Listen, everybody ready?
23:38All right.
23:38Quit 20.
23:44You get tired.
23:46Yeah, yeah.
23:47It was almost like walking up stadium steps.
23:50The legs start to burn, and you feel the lactic acid building up.
23:53And the thing is, it didn't plateau out,
23:56where you got a little bit of rest.
23:57You just keep on climbing.
23:59Ooh, look at that, Africa.
24:01Yeah.
24:01Awesome view.
24:02The view on top of the Uluguru Mountains is phenomenal,
24:06because you feel like you're living in the clouds.
24:09I mean, the clouds are just hovering all around you.
24:11And everywhere you look, in every which direction,
24:14there's this beautiful mountainous terrain.
24:16All right, guys.
24:17Let's go ahead and take a small break here, huh?
24:19It's a little flat.
24:21We're going to have to go very tight, though.
24:23It's a very small spot.
24:25Everybody listen up.
24:27We're going to stop up, double-triple-check these loads, Kevin.
24:31Because then we're starting to down,
24:33and we've got to make sure that these guys understand
24:35that down is more difficult than going up.
24:39Going up's not the hard part.
24:40Going down's the hard part.
24:41You know, there's an old saying of mountaineering.
24:43Going up a mountain is optional.
24:46Getting down a mountain, that's mandatory.
24:49You ready?
24:50Everybody feel good?
24:51You all right?
24:52All right, let's twin down.
24:53Been way, way, way more deaths on Mount Everest
24:56going down than coming up.
24:59I know some of those people that died.
25:00Poli, poli, huh?
25:02But be careful.
25:03Boy, this is going to suck.
25:08Everyone OK?
25:08Don't get up there.
25:09Be careful.
25:10It's slippery.
25:10Oh, there's a lot of slippery slope here.
25:13It's quite tough to go down,
25:14especially when the trail was as narrow as it was.
25:17You start to make silly mistakes,
25:18and it's hard to actually stay standing up.
25:21Really careful through here, all right?
25:23It is slick, slick, slick.
25:29OK.
25:31Watch it, steep.
25:33Whoo!
25:34This is grungy here.
25:38Oh, there we go.
25:38OK.
25:42Going down, when you got the weight of your backpack,
25:45your feet are a little bit tired,
25:46your toes are jammed in the front of that boot.
25:49Every time you step, there's a knee going out.
25:52Oh!
25:52You're sliding, slipping on your butt.
25:55Be careful.
25:56Climbing mountains is not easy.
25:59The water's right there.
26:01Can you hear the water, Maria?
26:02Yeah, you can see it.
26:02Look, there's a waterfall, right?
26:03Right here.
26:04Sure.
26:06Wow.
26:07Yeah.
26:09Whoo!
26:11This is nice.
26:12This is nice.
26:14It's funny, after having come out of the swamps
26:16with no water, that we suddenly come here,
26:19and then we find the little rivers and streams everywhere.
26:22It's become such a great luxury.
26:24All right, so it's here.
26:25Let's camp.
26:26We'll take this and then give them all this.
26:28What I want to do first is get the farm going.
26:29This is great.
26:30Yeah.
26:33God, I thought you had it.
26:35I know.
26:35I was getting too.
26:36I was getting excited there.
26:37Stanley called these mountains Misty Mountains.
26:39I understand 100% why.
26:40As we went over the mountain into the southern valleys,
26:42we started encountering a mist, a heavy dew point,
26:46a wet, grassy vegetation that was damp and really beautiful,
26:51but had its own problems,
26:52and made building a fire almost impossible.
26:54Yeah, it was so damp.
26:57But always in my survival kit, I keep a woman's tampon.
27:01They're very, very good tinder.
27:03I don't know what they make them out of, but they...
27:05Come up in flames really well.
27:10They're getting it.
27:11Good job, dude.
27:12Hey!
27:14If in doubt, use a woman's tampon.
27:22As a journalist, you're always observing.
27:24You're always seeing things that are going on.
27:26And I think it's our instinct as journalists to want to record things,
27:29and so I'm keeping the journal on this journey.
27:33Hey, this is day seven of the expedition.
27:35And today was an incredibly tough day.
27:38You know, for me, I had a difficulty just putting one foot in front of the other.
27:44To cap it off.
27:45When we arrived at camp, we started to feel a few raindrops.
27:48We are worried about the weather.
27:50We see clouds overhead, and there is the potential for rain.
27:53The one thing that we don't want to do is get wet at this point.
27:58In terms of tomorrow, we're anticipating a tough march again.
28:02And we're hoping we're going to stay dry.
28:05We'll just have to see how it works out tomorrow.
28:33It's just damn wet.
28:34It rained a couple hours.
28:36It's horrible, putting it on down first.
28:38Stanley called the Uluguru Mountains the Misty Mountains.
28:41And he's absolutely right.
28:42And that mist percolates everything.
28:50Lots of sparks.
28:53A spark is no problem.
28:55Wait, wait, wait, wait, wait, wait.
29:00It's, um...
29:03In the morning, everything was wet.
29:05Everything.
29:06Just everything.
29:07Just everything.
29:07And so there was no...
29:09There was no even firewood.
29:11So that was really tough day.
29:13One of the tough days.
29:15Oh, God.
29:17It's all damp.
29:18It's not working.
29:20I got it once and then let it go.
29:26Tampon doesn't seem to work.
29:27Right.
29:29Okay.
29:30Emergency.
29:31Not being able to start a fire is critical because we can't make food, we can't boil water.
29:39So to start today what we think may even be more difficult than it was yesterday on an empty stomach,
29:45feeling sluggish, feeling tired, it makes it more dangerous.
29:48But if you notice everybody's sort of demeanor and posture today, it's quite different.
29:53Yeah.
29:53Everybody's feeling it.
29:54You know, they're wet tired and hungry.
29:55And we need to go.
29:59You guys ready?
30:00Yeah.
30:01Is everybody ready?
30:02Yes.
30:03Okay.
30:04He's not cheering as much as he used to today.
30:08Wendy!
30:12That's when we started.
30:13My boots are so wet.
30:15I'm just going to plow through the river.
30:17Don't fall in the river.
30:19Pau de pau de, huh?
30:21Okay, guys.
30:22Be really, really careful now, right?
30:25It's just steep.
30:26It's just a little slip.
30:27Yep.
30:28It's all the way down.
30:30I'm getting tired.
30:32These are definitely the slippery slopes, baby.
30:35I thought we were past the slippery slopes.
30:37Hell no.
30:38It's right here.
30:39I think at this point it has been extremely challenging.
30:43Today is the first day that I feel like my butt's whipped.
30:46We're racing against these guys today.
30:48I started to feel really tired.
30:50I mean, almost lethargic.
30:51And it was hard to get moving.
30:54You've got to stop.
30:55These guys are going to have a hard time.
30:56Yeah, stop.
30:57They're tired.
30:57They haven't had anything to eat.
30:59Yeah.
30:59Okay, let's move forward because these guys are going to be right on that ledge.
31:01We've got to give them room.
31:02Yeah.
31:03Kevin does not have a lot of mountaineering experience, really.
31:05He's a journalist.
31:06You know, he's worried.
31:07He's worried about the route.
31:08Are we on the right route?
31:09He's worried about the porters.
31:10He's worried about everything.
31:11He had no reason to worry.
31:13In fact, people think of dangers of being snakes and lions and rockfall.
31:17That's not all danger.
31:18A lot of danger is right here.
31:20Because when your attitude goes, the whole expedition starts to crater.
31:25They've got to get some food.
31:26Yeah.
31:26Get some tea.
31:28Musquale.
31:28Yeah.
31:29How far we are before we get out of the mountains.
31:31It's not a big deal.
31:32We ain't going to get lost.
31:33We know where we're going.
31:34Come on.
31:34Let's go 20.
31:38Check it out, huh?
31:40Ooh.
31:41Oh, cliffs.
31:43Look at that.
31:44We're coming down through the mountains, and suddenly we saw this cliff, like a sort of wall
31:50ahead of us.
31:52And it looked terrible.
31:53So it's a good three, four hundred feet and overhung.
31:56That's just what we can see.
31:57And I think it just, it dropped down.
31:59Yeah.
32:00We don't have to climb that thing, do we?
32:02It's a vertical face almost.
32:03If you look at it, it's more than vertical.
32:05It's impossible to climb.
32:07Well, how are we going to get past it?
32:09Well, if you look to the right, it's a little zigzag, like a little wave.
32:12Yeah, that's crazy.
32:13That's a trail, so.
32:14If we get too close to the cliff, we'll have to pull out the ropes.
32:16I walked over the ridge and saw these sheer cliffs, which I never thought we were going
32:21to have to scale.
32:21You know, I thought we were basically walking out of the mountains, not into them.
32:24I mean, it really took me by surprise.
32:27It is overhung.
32:28Check it out.
32:28I'm not looking forward to this.
32:30You know, I think it's really dangerous, and our guys are so tired.
32:33They don't have any breakfast.
32:34They haven't had any tea.
32:35And we're pushing them really hard.
32:39You know, I don't think it's a smart thing to do at this point.
32:43I don't know if there's another way out.
32:46Hey, guys, stop for a sec.
32:48Squally, let's huddle up for a second.
32:50Yeah.
32:50Can we get over that rock?
32:53If I could just jump in for a second.
32:55I'm usually never the voice of reason on things.
32:57I was really uncomfortable with what we were looking at over there, that sheer cliff face.
33:02I just, at the very least, I want to make sure that they trust us as we go.
33:05Before we got to the cliff, we found this little area where we decided to rest, and that's
33:10when Kevin started just unloading how he felt about it.
33:13Because we didn't either get all the information or we didn't share all the information, we
33:17put my point through a march they probably never expected, and, you know, we lose a little
33:22bit of that trust.
33:23I mean, there's a journalist in me coming out, but, you know.
33:26I just, I just, that's not how it happens on expeditions.
33:29Well, I mean, it's how it happens in life.
33:30How do you get information?
33:31You talk to people.
33:32But this is what happens.
33:33We didn't ask that question.
33:34We didn't ask, are there sheer cliffs ahead?
33:36You know, can those guys do what they need to do, you know, with those heavy loads?
33:39I mean, just getting, you know, weighing in.
33:41It seems to me that Kevin was transposing his fears onto the porters, and that's where
33:47projecting his own emotions and actually deflecting blame.
33:52The porters may or may not have been happy, but what was obvious was that Kevin simply
33:57was fearful.
33:58He was uncomfortable with the whole situation.
34:00We're not trying to lead you somewhere where you don't want to go.
34:03We want you to understand where we're going.
34:05We're in the same boat that you are.
34:06We're walking down there.
34:08We know how dangerous it is.
34:09And we're sorry if we put you in any jeopardy that you didn't expect.
34:12We will tell you everything we know.
34:14We're not keeping anything from you.
34:16We all care about the porters.
34:18But we're the experienced expeditionists, and we're letting him make all the important
34:22calls.
34:23But we're on an expedition, and this is what happens on an expedition.
34:27Well, we're letting the porters lead the expedition through Kevin.
34:29Yeah, I agree 100%.
34:31What do we do now?
34:32So we go back because it's tough?
34:34Yeah, it's tough.
34:35It was going to be tough.
34:36We knew that going into this.
34:37If it were easy, everyone would do it.
34:39When Kevin went over to talk to the porters and basically apologized because we had somehow
34:44misguided and broken their trust, I sat with Benedict and Pasquale and thought, right,
34:49we need a game plan.
34:50I just think we need to take control back of the expedition as expeditionists.
34:54Yeah.
34:54And then actually that will guarantee all our safety.
34:56Absolutely.
34:57Because I think we just should be aware that he's more fragile than he seems.
35:01If he's not able to cope out here, that spells trouble for all of us because the whole
35:07expedition will crack open as he does.
35:10We're leaving now.
35:11Right now.
35:16Ooh, poor cliffs.
35:19Look at that.
35:21We don't have to climb that thing, do we?
35:23We came around the corner at one point and saw these sheer cliffs and knew that we had
35:27to traverse up those cliffs as well.
35:29And I thought we were out of this.
35:30I thought we were almost done.
35:31It really took me by surprise.
35:33He's used to some really tough situations, but they're all sort of controlled.
35:38I mean, they're sort of in an urban setting.
35:40Yeah.
35:42This is Africa.
35:43I started getting a little bit frustrated with Kevin.
35:46Okay, guys.
35:46Ready?
35:46It's the nature of the beast.
35:48You're out here.
35:49You're in the wilds of Africa.
35:51You're going to come across situations that are hairy and dicey, and you just have to
35:55figure out how to move on.
35:56Let's go.
35:57We're moving forward.
35:58Deep.
35:58Twin deep.
36:00We're out of here.
36:04Does it seem like we've been in these mountains for a week already?
36:06I don't even remember the swamp.
36:10Okay.
36:10It's deep.
36:11Slowly, slowly, slowly.
36:13Wow, look at this cliff canyon back here.
36:15This is the slippery slopes.
36:17They're about okay.
36:18Can you just see?
36:18Is this a ridge just up here?
36:20It's probably up here.
36:23Okay, guys.
36:24Be really, really careful now, eh?
36:26Yeah.
36:33What happened to the cliff?
36:35It seems to have disappeared.
36:37I think this could be it, huh?
36:38Maybe?
36:39Oh, lovely view.
36:40Pretty spectacular, isn't it?
36:42Yeah.
36:43Yeah.
36:43In fact, you can see where we crossed.
36:44Yeah?
36:45That was the sea.
36:46When we actually came to crossing over the cliffs, we couldn't even see them, really.
36:51We were up above them, but it was just one more narrow track along a ledge.
36:56Down, down, down we go, huh?
36:59Okay, it's a village here.
37:02Okay.
37:11Let's go ahead and break right up here.
37:13Oh, wow.
37:14Check it out.
37:14Check it out.
37:16Check it out.
37:17Check it out.
37:18Blimey.
37:19I don't believe this.
37:20It's like a little bit of paradise that's been established.
37:23Oh, this is a long time coming, huh?
37:25This morning when we woke up, everything was just soaking wet.
37:28There was no possibility of a fire, which meant that every single one of us went without
37:32eating.
37:33Do they have bananas?
37:34Let's get some bananas.
37:35Oh, the pineapple.
37:36Yeah, let's get some bananas and pineapple.
37:37Can we get pineapple?
37:38We were all really tired.
37:39We were hungry.
37:40We were thirsty.
37:41And, you know, here we come upon this tiny little paradise in this great village.
37:45And it was just such a welcome sight to see all this food laid out for us.
37:50You want to start with some of these?
37:51Yeah.
37:51Yeah, no doubt.
37:55That's really good.
37:57All the best for not having eaten properly.
37:59I think Kevin's pretty tired.
38:05Old budding explorer.
38:08Oh, man.
38:09Chai.
38:10Careful, it is really hot.
38:11This is like breakfast in bed, huh?
38:12Yeah, really.
38:13Kevin was very, very quiet indeed.
38:15The quietest he's been ever since I've seen him.
38:18Was he moping?
38:19Was he thinking, God, I've overreacted.
38:21I'm a real amateur out here.
38:23How humiliating.
38:24You're okay, Kevin?
38:25Yeah.
38:26I'm sorry I'm not being standoffish at all.
38:28I'm just, I got really tired.
38:29So I just came over to lay down.
38:31Glad we didn't get down the cliff.
38:33Wow.
38:34Yeah.
38:35Yeah, I thought we were going to.
38:36You know, that wasn't as bad as seeing a cliff in the distance.
38:40You were out, I think, at one point.
38:41Was I?
38:42Yeah, you were out.
38:43There was no almost in that.
38:45Kevin Kaputz?
38:46Yeah.
38:47Yeah, Kevin's Kaputz.
38:48You know, we're all really concerned.
38:50I mean, the guy has no expedition experience, really.
38:52He's a journalist.
38:53He's way beyond his experience level.
38:55There's a difference between intelligence and experience in the outdoors, in expeditions.
39:05Husqvar, can I suggest we buy the goat?
39:07Yeah.
39:08When we saw that goat, we thought, wow, instant food.
39:11But just as important as getting sustenance was celebration.
39:17Can we take the goat then?
39:18It seemed like something of a reward for all our struggles.
39:23So, we snapped up that goat and we could just see the eyes of the Maasai watering.
39:30I'm kind of nervous.
39:32Not as nervous as the goat.
39:35I am hungry without meat.
39:37I like meat.
39:39You know, Maasai usually, they always like to eat goat, sheep and cows.
39:56The great thing about the Maasai, and the terrible thing about us Westerners, is that they use every little bit
40:03of this intestines.
40:05You'll eat the intestines.
40:06Yeah.
40:06You'll use the skin.
40:07You'll use the horns.
40:09It's a sort of tribute to the animal.
40:11Whereas back home, we take out the best bits and chuck away the rest or give it to dogs.
40:16What's that?
40:16It's like kidney.
40:17Kidney.
40:17Kidney.
40:18Oh, yeah.
40:19Have you had one former?
40:21No, I really can't say that I have.
40:24I'm just going to...
40:24It actually tastes delicious.
40:25Yeah, no.
40:25It's smaller than that.
40:26Like, really.
40:27Okay, okay.
40:28You will.
40:29No.
40:31Seriously?
40:32Yeah, it's fine.
40:33Absolutely fine.
40:33I'm just going to pretend this is like...
40:35Yeah, pretend it's something lovely.
40:37It's really...
40:38It's fine.
40:40Don't...
40:40Maria was so good.
40:43I like her.
40:44She's a courageous lady because she tried her level best.
40:48Actually, she will be given congratulations for that work.
40:51You can see.
40:52It's very sweet.
40:54It's just like, um...
40:56I don't know what, really.
40:57It's a goat kidney.
40:59Goat kidney.
40:59That's what it's like.
41:00It's like goat kidney.
41:02Yeah.
41:02Mm.
41:09That's delicious.
41:10I love it.
41:11It's a...
41:12You get lots of meat.
41:13That goat kidney filled me up.
41:15Yeah.
41:21Hey.
41:22Check out this, guys.
41:24Oh, wow.
41:25The drums.
41:27Check out the drums.
41:28Hey.
41:28Oh, oh.
41:30Hey.
41:30We're sitting around the campfire,
41:31and out of the blue come these guys with, you know,
41:35with all these drums and musical instruments,
41:37and we're thinking,
41:38okay, what's going on here exactly?
41:40We are artists from these Uruguru Mountains.
41:42We are here to welcome you.
41:45What a trip this is.
41:46This is great.
41:50Hey.
41:58The next thing you know, they're pulling out eight,
42:00nine-foot pythons, and just dancing around the fire with them,
42:04and just unbelievably, like... the total African experience.
42:09It's good to see everybody loosen up.
42:11I mean, I think we needed it. We had a rough day.
42:16At first, we were just watching the spectators,
42:19and then we were dancing.
42:20We found ourselves sort of drawn into this great African drum piece.
42:39They played the drums, and they sang, and they danced,
42:42and there were snakes everywhere.
42:45I'm excited. I'm always excited to go to a new place and do new things.
42:48I'm excited, new challenges ahead of me.
42:49It's pretty fantastic to be out here.
42:57Tanzania, as you move from place to place, is like frying pan to fire.
43:01The natural beauty is unparalleled in a lot of ways,
43:03but the inherent danger is just as great.
43:07And even though they're hard, and Ulugurus were very hard for us,
43:11you know, the journey is the destination.
43:14One of the main aspects of this expedition is encountering the people
43:18and experiencing their cultures, their traditions,
43:21and tonight was just one of those magical nights.
43:32Next time on Expedition, the explorers enter lion country.
43:37It's the place of the hunter and the hunted,
43:39and we could end up being the hunted.
43:41I don't want to get caught out of here. Seriously, it's fine.
43:43It's organized mess. Stupid is what it is.
43:47You're joking, right?
43:49Drink up and don't bother saving me anymore.
43:52Under and out of your Heather International.
43:57Nhung that a few times, I have a dream talk for them,
43:58and you're not just nostrojet that day all day.
44:01Just one of the next impressions you might go guer retfy.
44:01You're not just a narrator and you probably do that.
44:01Ację to get caught up with that sentiment.
44:01A
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