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Girl Climber [Full Movie] [English Subs]Full EP - Full
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00:00:06Oh
00:00:30Let's go.
00:01:10Rito, open that up.
00:01:12Come on.
00:01:13Get it open.
00:01:16I totally knew it.
00:01:18I totally knew it.
00:01:21What is it?
00:01:23It's a rope.
00:01:24Get rid of that box.
00:01:26Another 12 year old would love a rope for Christmas.
00:01:29Yeah.
00:01:31Yeah.
00:01:31Come on, Em.
00:01:33Yeah.
00:01:34Woo!
00:01:35Yeah!
00:01:37Yeah!
00:01:38Yeah!
00:01:39Yeah!
00:01:39Yeah!
00:01:45Emily.
00:01:46Emily.
00:01:47Emily, where are we?
00:01:48I don't know.
00:01:50I don't know.
00:01:51We're at El Capitan.
00:01:57From Colorado, Emily Harrington.
00:02:02She's certainly a force to be reckoned with.
00:02:06Emily, make it look easy.
00:02:12Five-time national champion.
00:02:22But Emily is certainly one of the most well-rounded American female climbers.
00:02:27Part of your brain knows that this is slightly illogical.
00:02:32It is dangerous.
00:02:33But life's boring if you don't have that little element of spice, right?
00:02:38We should try to get a little bit more comfortable with being afraid.
00:02:46I love exploring my perceived limit and trying to push past it.
00:03:07Yeah.
00:03:10Can I do this?
00:03:29I'm biting my nose.
00:03:45We got fire.
00:03:47I think this is my pee bottle.
00:03:51Nope, it's just a normal water bottle.
00:03:59A little flare in the van.
00:04:15I'm really proud of my career so far, but if you want to call yourself a successful
00:04:21all-around climber, you've got to be up on El Cap.
00:04:26There it is, in all its glory, El Capitan.
00:04:48It's always surprising how big it is.
00:04:50I never think, oh, it doesn't look that bad or it doesn't look that big.
00:04:54It's always fucking so big.
00:04:58Why don't I know no one talks about how scary it is?
00:05:04I wish I could not feel afraid anymore.
00:05:12El Capitan is a 3,200-foot granite face.
00:05:18It doesn't get much bigger.
00:05:20It doesn't get much more difficult.
00:05:23It doesn't get much more high quality than El Cap.
00:05:28It's just the most impressive, most beautiful stone in the world.
00:05:32And it's so hard to free climb.
00:05:38When you look at El Cap, it looks impossible.
00:05:41It looks smooth.
00:05:42And you can't imagine what there would be to climb it.
00:05:44It always attracted people that are curious to push themselves to the highest level.
00:05:51For decades, climbers have been testing themselves up there.
00:05:58Climbing El Capitan is the most badass thing that you can do as a human.
00:06:04With the exception of Lynn Hill and a few other women, it's very much like a boys club.
00:06:13When I started climbing, the first person I learned about was Lynn Hill.
00:06:18She was the first to free climb a route on El Capitan called the Nose.
00:06:24And then the following year, she went back and free climbed it in a day,
00:06:28which was the most groundbreaking, astonishing achievement.
00:06:34I didn't feel like I needed to prove anything after that.
00:06:38Because I was at the age where I wanted to have a kid, I wanted to have a family,
00:06:41and having the freedom to just go rock climbing was not going to happen forever.
00:06:47At a certain point, you have to be happy with what you've done.
00:06:56What's your ring?
00:06:57You want to hear my alarm?
00:06:57Yeah.
00:06:59This is mine.
00:07:00Yeah.
00:07:00What's yours?
00:07:01Mine's more the other end of the spectrum.
00:07:03I was in Yosemite looking for a project, some sort of inspiration.
00:07:08I was working on my personal quest to free solo El Cap on the free rider.
00:07:12And she was willing to go up the wall to support me for a day of climbing.
00:07:15I got really excited because climbing with Alex on El Cap is like playing basketball with Michael Jordan.
00:07:21It's like you're with the best of the best.
00:07:25First time I met Emily was at a cliff called Jail House.
00:07:28She was already a very established, very successful climber.
00:07:32She was a lot better than me.
00:07:34And the thing that really made an impression was that she was all kind of done up and she had
00:07:38earrings and things.
00:07:38And I was like, man, how can someone climb that hard with earrings?
00:07:42She was just so well put together and going to college and doing the hardest thing at the cliff.
00:07:46You know, everything about it was just different than what I was living.
00:07:49I was like, whoa, that's that's a different level.
00:07:53You could tell he just didn't really care about anything but climbing.
00:07:57And he is very famous for free soloing, which is rock climbing without a rope.
00:08:04No person does what he does at his level.
00:08:11I was incredibly inspired by the way he moved.
00:08:16He was so perfect.
00:08:19He seems so at ease.
00:08:21And I've always envied that.
00:08:23With the green ground, you can climb up to the spire and like reflake the rope and manage.
00:08:28I'm just trying to nurture you into a simul climbing machine.
00:08:35Good work.
00:08:37Yeah, good work.
00:08:39Good work.
00:08:40That was good.
00:08:41There's no way I would have done any of that without you.
00:08:44Isn't that pretty rad?
00:08:45That was pretty rad.
00:08:46That was a life experience.
00:08:48Yeah.
00:08:49I don't think you can do that in a day.
00:08:51You do?
00:08:52Yeah.
00:08:53I don't think it'd be that bad for you because you just have the base fitness that you need, you
00:08:56know?
00:08:56Yeah.
00:08:57It'd definitely be a dream.
00:08:59Yeah, it'd be sick.
00:09:00It's gotta start somewhere.
00:09:01Yeah.
00:09:03I mean, you know.
00:09:05That's when I first thought of trying to free climb El Cap in less than 24 hours.
00:09:12Climbing it in a day is the epitome of hard rock climbing.
00:09:16And there's a desire to prove myself.
00:09:18Like, I do deserve to be here.
00:09:20I do deserve to be climbing with all of these people that I've looked up to and idolized for a
00:09:26long time.
00:09:27That's awesome.
00:09:28That's pretty good.
00:09:29I like a dagger too.
00:09:31It's the sense of belonging that I want.
00:09:48I see some big wet streaks, but I also see dry rock, so it's kind of a mixed bag up
00:09:55there.
00:09:57It is not going to change a single thing.
00:10:03Most people free climb El Cap over five days or so.
00:10:06It's so much harder to free climb El Cap in a day.
00:10:10The difference between doing a multi-day ascent and doing a one-day ascent is huge.
00:10:16To climb that thing in a day, it's outrageous.
00:10:19It's an audacious undertaking.
00:10:23I'm left wondering whether she can pull it off.
00:10:28Most people who free climb El Cap in a day have done it via the free rider because it's the
00:10:33easiest route.
00:10:34I wanted to do a more challenging route, and that's why I chose Golden Gate.
00:10:41There are very few climbers who have free climbed any route on El Cap in a day other than the
00:10:46free rider.
00:10:47Golden Gate is quite a bit harder.
00:10:50Golden Gate has only been free climbed in a day by three people.
00:10:53Three of the best El Cap climbers in the world.
00:11:00These guys are heroes of mine, and I want to be a part of that group.
00:11:11Golden Gate has 34 pitches.
00:11:14My goal is to climb from the beginning of each pitch to the end without falling.
00:11:19That will be a free ascent.
00:11:21If I fall, I have to go back to the beginning of that pitch and try again.
00:11:26And I need to do this in under 24 hours.
00:11:36That's going to be really hard for her.
00:11:38I give her a 20% chance of sending, honestly.
00:11:42She just hasn't paid her dues like Honnold has.
00:11:52It's hard to put yourself out there and say you're going to try to do the hardest thing you've ever
00:11:57done.
00:11:58Just because I'm trying to protect myself from people finding out that I'm afraid or that I fail or that
00:12:04I'm just like everyone else.
00:12:08I mean, I don't want to say it's mansplaining, but primarily there's men that have accomplished this goal.
00:12:13And so it's like I get a lot of advice and it's a lot of like, oh, you need to
00:12:18be committed to this and you need to go here for this amount of time and you need to do
00:12:21it this way.
00:12:22And you should be doing this and you should be doing that.
00:12:24I've been climbing for 22 years.
00:12:27Like I know how to approach a goal.
00:12:31I don't need someone to tell me how to do it.
00:12:35But obviously that's a hard, that's a hard thing to convince yourself of as well.
00:12:40It's hard for me to convince myself that I know what I'm doing.
00:12:44Do you think I need more than one three?
00:12:45I wouldn't even take the three.
00:12:46Oh my God.
00:12:48Maybe I don't need this and two purples.
00:12:51I always had it in my mind ever since he asked me to support him that he would probably be
00:12:56willing to support me on Golden Gate.
00:12:59I'd like to think I may be the best supporter in the world for El Cap just because I know
00:13:04the roots really well.
00:13:04I've worked on them a long time.
00:13:06I don't think anyone has climbed any of those parts of the wall faster.
00:13:09Are you climbing the monster with just one six?
00:13:11Yeah.
00:13:12Awesome.
00:13:12And I wanted to help Emily achieve this big dream of hers.
00:13:16Alex is very comfortable, very confident, but I also trust him.
00:13:20Having someone up there who you can tell is right at home makes me feel that much more comfortable.
00:13:27I'll give you that.
00:13:28Go up and try your best.
00:13:30That's all I'm doing.
00:13:30I'm just going to go try.
00:13:31Move by move, you just do your best and see how it plays out.
00:13:34I'm allowed to fall.
00:13:36Yeah, I mean, that's the beautiful thing.
00:13:37You have a rope.
00:13:38It's like a good shit.
00:13:38Let's do it.
00:13:40I'm really happy that I have a rope.
00:13:58Water.
00:14:07there.
00:14:10There.
00:14:11You got to take your time and enjoy.
00:14:16Remember, climbing mountains fun.
00:14:35the way that I climb the bottom 2,000 feet of the route with Alex is something called simul
00:14:40climbing so I'm leading placing gear and Alex is following climbing at the same time as me
00:14:45so we're moving up the wall together and it enables you to move a lot faster but it cuts
00:14:53some corners because you're placing less safety equipment between yourself and your partner so if
00:14:59either of us falls we can get severely injured or we could die but this is really the only way
00:15:05to climb it in a day I was kind of proud of myself honestly yeah that was good thank you
00:15:11I just hand
00:15:12every hand of the roof I was like fuck that
00:15:34that was the easiest that the monster has ever felt
00:15:38but it's still really hard now it's way faster than ever before oh yeah yeah like 45 minutes
00:15:48you find 2,000 feet already you may as well climb one more picture I'm gonna try I don't know
00:15:52if I can
00:15:53though of course you can just get in there and engage all right you need someone to like punch in
00:16:00the nuts
00:16:15you're doing great thank you I really appreciate it I'm really digging deep here you know this is a this
00:16:20is my first effort yeah do you think it's worth giving it one to the death effort I mean I've
00:16:26been
00:16:26trying to give it to the death yeah what is that to the death it seems a little like worky
00:16:30if we
00:16:31decide to go down let's fully debrief like what are you going to do differently what are you going to
00:16:36do better where can you save energy yeah because I mean obviously there's a ton of room for improvement
00:16:40what are you going to do today a lot of room for improvement
00:16:47yeah that's crazy
00:16:52it just went from perfectly okay to perfectly not okay
00:16:58oh oh my god it hurts so bad
00:17:06hey give me a hug oh you needed a hug from you all day thank you these bruises are just
00:17:12all from one
00:17:13pitch I was secretly happy that we got rained off because everything just felt so hard
00:17:24I don't really foresee me trying again this spring I'm kind of worked over from the season
00:17:31I didn't feel ready and I haven't put in the work in order to be successful
00:17:54oh yeah that was her first wetsuit look at how tiny that little thing is here you go here's a
00:18:02bunch
00:18:02of trophies climbing stuff first place
00:18:10junior nationals oh when she was 12 years old I don't remember what that one was
00:18:19what's that one from serious shovel oh yeah this is the world cup she won
00:18:28no there's the little mohawk look at that mohawk
00:18:35I would say I had like a very normal childhood my dad was really into any activity that was in
00:18:44the
00:18:44mountains ski
00:18:51turns growing up I had this idea that girls were inferior in some way
00:18:58desperately wanted to prove that I wasn't like that
00:19:02I grew up with my two cousins who were boys and we were super competitive with each other
00:19:11all I wanted to do was be better than them I wanted to do well in everything and I tried
00:19:19really hard
00:19:24when I found climbing this switch went off it was like instantly that's what I wanted to do
00:19:34the feeling of lightness and strength and invincibility was pretty profound
00:19:46I liked the feeling of success
00:19:52and if I didn't measure up to that I was so upset and disappointed
00:20:05competitions being the best winning to me that was what climbing was
00:20:15I definitely started putting more pressure on myself my self-worth was so tied to my success in climbing
00:20:24and then my success in climbing was tied to my weight
00:20:29the less mass you have the easier it's going to be to stay on the wall
00:20:35it just became this cycle of punishment I remember being completely exhausted all the time
00:20:43she was so thin and I didn't know what to do and I remember her hands were orange because all
00:20:51she was
00:20:51eating was carrots and I wasn't sleeping well and I was dizzy sometimes
00:21:00and then climbing wasn't very fun I feel like I barely laughed
00:21:08I started realizing that this isn't how I want to live my life and is climbing going to be a
00:21:17positive
00:21:17force in my life or is it always going to be this negative thing
00:21:24I guess now is the best time and here is the best place to say this
00:21:28I have an eating disorder
00:21:30I can't admit it to anybody else
00:21:32but at least I can admit it to myself
00:21:35I feel out of control when I indulge in food
00:21:39and my all-or-nothing behavior makes me depressed and unhappy
00:21:43I don't ever give myself a break
00:21:46I want to be perfect all the time
00:21:47I must run fast climb strong and eat as little as possible
00:22:01eventually my body and my brain just couldn't really handle all the stress and the pressures
00:22:07I realized that competing wasn't something that I really wanted to do anymore
00:22:16The pivotal thing that happened was I joined the North Face athlete team
00:22:22and got invited on an expedition to Mount Everest
00:22:28I had no idea what it would do for me in my life
00:22:34She was keen to try out mountain climbing
00:22:38so it's like oh first mountain climbing trip how about Everest
00:22:42a little bit crazy but why not
00:22:46it's the tallest and most precipitous mountain range on our planet
00:22:50if you want to test your mettle that's where you go
00:22:54I remember just saying Emily no I do not want you going to Everest
00:22:59Tim said to her you're not going and she said dad I'm not 16
00:23:04and that was the end of that
00:23:08Emily at 25 barely coming out of the gym as a gym climber and then being on Everest
00:23:15I mean that's a huge leap to me
00:23:17I was a little like dark in those days so um I might have
00:23:23just totally written her off as a first impression you know just kind of like whatever
00:23:36it wasn't until I got there and realized that Conrad was like completely hands-off with Emily and he was
00:23:41like well you step in you know I'm like I don't even know her I don't want to do this
00:23:45I'm not a mentor
00:23:46I was not very helpful I definitely am not an incredibly sympathetic person
00:23:58I'm ready to go up tomorrow I'm a little nervous and scared to go through the icefall
00:24:06that's knowledge happens like five times a day it's really unnerving
00:24:17I want to get through the icefall and then I'll feel okay
00:24:28Conrad saw something in her and he was right
00:24:35she just didn't give in
00:24:48I came to care immensely for Emily over the time of that trip
00:24:54we talked about my relationship we talked about my climbing we talked about her kids and how much
00:24:58she missed her kids and just life and it gave me a peek into what my life could be like
00:25:04in the future
00:25:28she passed me and she was by herself and I was like Emily why are you by yourself where's the
00:25:32Sherpa that you were climbing with she was like oh god I feel so bad I he was slow so
00:25:37I left him
00:25:38behind was that really bad should I go back and get him
00:25:47she crushed it
00:25:51it was so out of her main sport that it just was all the more of a huge achievement
00:26:00as a climber you're the sum total of all your ascents and expeditions and
00:26:04each experience that you have builds into who you are as a climber and Emily got that
00:26:11I was a lot stronger than I thought I would be climbing on Everest has made me appreciate
00:26:17the style of climbing that I do
00:26:20I do want to continue to be in the mountains and to learn from them
00:26:42good morning
00:26:43good morning
00:26:45here's your coffee
00:26:50I stayed up late last night and get all these emails and like texts with China and Nepal and Tibet
00:26:54and
00:26:55I'm like scared to turn on their phone and see what everyone wrote
00:26:59come back to bed
00:27:00no
00:27:03I have an interview in 15 minutes
00:27:06okay I'll make breakfast
00:27:09hi this is Adrian
00:27:12doing some final prep for a big trip I'm leaving on early next week
00:27:16you know the average Everest expedition is two months long
00:27:20and I'm probably away you know seven to eight months a year still traveling and climbing around the world
00:27:28Adrian is a high altitude climber and a mountain guide who spends a lot of time in the Himalaya
00:27:35we met at camp two on Mount Everest
00:27:41I just remember this charismatic guy he was super nice and fun to talk to
00:27:48the sad fact of high altitude climbing is there's just not many women
00:27:54I certainly noticed Emily as an anomaly
00:27:57but 21 000 feet is really miserable so you kind of like have a crushing headache at the same time
00:28:03you're
00:28:03trying to be like social and funny and interesting it's not like a great flooding opportunity
00:28:08it was this really powerful connection that we had
00:28:11I'd never felt like that with anyone before
00:28:14and we knew that we wanted to stay connected
00:28:19Adrian is gone most of the year guiding in the Himalaya
00:28:23and because I have this big project I'm working on we are going to spend the next four months apart
00:28:30I don't really look forward to this time of year as it is
00:28:34because Adrian's going to be gone for a really long time and I have a lot of
00:28:39like I put a lot of pressure on myself for my own projects
00:28:42no
00:28:46I've spent a lot of time with people who have lost their partner in the mountains and
00:28:52every time he leaves I have this part of me that is afraid he won't come back
00:29:02the secret stash okay I'm overwhelmed again I'm going to go eat some toast
00:29:08I'm really overwhelmed right now goodbye here we go
00:29:15it kind of sucks
00:29:20cat stuff I have food coffee stuff music music bed
00:29:29so I don't know I'm going to go eat some of that
00:29:30he's going to be a happy one
00:29:35I love you
00:29:35I love you
00:29:36and she's off
00:29:45It's always hard, this one especially.
00:29:58I'm going to Moab because I want to prepare for the upcoming Yosemite season.
00:30:04And Moab is a great place to do that.
00:30:08Last spring I just wasn't ready.
00:30:10I hadn't put in the work.
00:30:18Look at these nails too.
00:30:20These are the gel nail.
00:30:21Gel nail magic.
00:30:23Supposed to last for like three months.
00:30:28I did not grow up learning how to crack climb.
00:30:32And for climbing in Yosemite it's a required skill.
00:30:46I wouldn't consider myself a super confident person when I'm standing on the ground.
00:30:50It's more why I'm like climbing.
00:30:53That my confidence shines through.
00:31:04I think I did get better technique.
00:31:07It's nice to feel a little more confidence.
00:31:12I'm excited to go do something.
00:31:13I'm ready.
00:31:45I've been in Yosemite now for a few weeks training on Golden Gate.
00:31:49It's been long days hiking in and practicing the harder pitches.
00:31:54It's really the only way to know every pitch for that in a day attempt.
00:32:03There's five hard sections of the route for me.
00:32:07The first one that comes up is the monster.
00:32:10You have to kind of wedge your body into this crack.
00:32:14And this pitch is almost 200 feet long.
00:32:17The monster off-width is harder if your foot can't bridge the crack.
00:32:20My foot can span between one side of the crack and the other side so I can easily wedge one
00:32:24foot and push upward.
00:32:26If you have a smaller foot, it's harder to make upward progress.
00:32:36The next pitch that's really hard for me is called the down climb.
00:32:41There's essentially no hold.
00:32:43You're kind of standing on a less than vertical, smooth surface.
00:32:49just pasting your feet on the wall and using the friction in order to stick.
00:32:55Your balance has to be pretty perfect in order to not get spit off.
00:33:01Oh, that was it.
00:33:05The next hard pitch is called the move.
00:33:08At the end of the pitch, there's a really hard boulder problem.
00:33:12So a series of really hard moves.
00:33:18For me, it's the most powerful section of the route.
00:33:21It has the hardest single moves.
00:33:26The next section is called the golden desert.
00:33:30It is a really long crack climb mixed with some funky traversing under a roof.
00:33:40And then the very next pitch after that is called the A5 traverse.
00:33:45And that's kind of the pitch that guards you from success.
00:33:50Imagine traversing this steep, sloping rail and trying to stand on feet that are the width
00:33:56of dimes.
00:33:58The A5 traverse is the spot where most people fail.
00:34:02By the time you've climbed almost 3,000 feet to get there, your arms are just incredibly
00:34:05tired and it's really hard to hang on them.
00:34:10I'm still a little nervous about the A5 traverse.
00:34:27I'm still a little nervous about the A5 traverse.
00:34:42Thankfully, Adrian came home from Everest.
00:34:45Everything was fine, but there was weeks there where I thought he might not.
00:34:51It's not really that safe, even if you make good decisions.
00:34:54Is it true?
00:34:56That I thought you might die?
00:34:57Yeah.
00:34:59I thought you might die.
00:35:00And I was trying to be...
00:35:01So you figured you'd stop moving on right away?
00:35:03Yeah.
00:35:04Just going to be a bachelorette and like be just in my little world, independent.
00:35:10It could happen and it could be the other way around.
00:35:13Yeah.
00:35:13I think I think about it less, but I think about it sometimes as you start speed climbing
00:35:17more and more, cutting corners, rock fall.
00:35:22There's plenty of things that can kill you.
00:35:23It's a little bit of a stretch, but I'm not going to die.
00:35:26I'm not going to die rock climbing.
00:35:27But you've got to think about it and acknowledge it's a possibility.
00:35:30I know.
00:35:30It's true.
00:35:30It's true.
00:35:31I just think that I've finally like come to a place where I'm okay.
00:35:37Not okay, but more okay.
00:35:41More okay is good.
00:35:43Yeah.
00:35:50Okay, questions.
00:35:52Okay.
00:35:52Get married already.
00:35:53When are you getting married?
00:35:54Are you going to have babies?
00:35:55Babies.
00:35:56Get married already.
00:35:58Um, do you plan on having kids soon?
00:36:01Okay.
00:36:02Um, I, I do plan on having kids eventually, I think.
00:36:07I want one kid, so I'm not really in like a huge rush, I, I say we, we, right?
00:36:14We.
00:36:15I think I've come around on that.
00:36:17We kind of settled on one, because Adrian wanted like three.
00:36:20Teen.
00:36:20He wanted three.
00:36:21Um, but I just want one, so I'm not in a rush.
00:36:24And I have like, we both have things we want to do first.
00:36:27I've got a couple about asking me about LCAP and what happened and if I'm going back, basically
00:36:33I, I failed and I also had terrible weather, but that's like a second part of it, um, that
00:36:40prevented me from succeeding and yes, I'm going back in the fall.
00:37:00So we got two liters of water.
00:37:01Okay.
00:37:02I have extra shock.
00:37:04Okay.
00:37:05Cool.
00:37:06Are you taking that much extra shock?
00:37:08I'm very concerned about the heat.
00:37:10It weighs nothing.
00:37:12I guess, it just, it seems like a lot of shock for, yeah, cool.
00:37:15But we don't have to bring it.
00:37:16No, no.
00:37:17No, but I actually really want it.
00:37:18If you think it'll make you feel better, it definitely makes me feel better.
00:37:20Okay.
00:37:21Extra shock.
00:37:21I'm bringing these.
00:37:22It's really hot.
00:37:23What are those?
00:37:25They're breakable ice packs.
00:37:27For my hands and feet.
00:37:28Seems totally absurd.
00:37:30So if we want to climb by three, what time should we meet in the meadow?
00:37:33Well, like 2.30.
00:37:342.30.
00:37:35That's like pretty early though.
00:37:37Pretty early.
00:37:58Okay.
00:38:07Good.
00:38:07Good.
00:38:08Good.
00:38:09Good.
00:38:10Good.
00:38:13Good.
00:38:15Good.
00:38:25Good.
00:38:26Good.
00:38:26Good.
00:38:27Good.
00:38:28Good.
00:38:45Oh, yeah.
00:38:45C'mon.
00:38:47C'mon.
00:38:48Yeah, c'mon, yeah, c'mon, come on.
00:38:52Yeah, c'mon.
00:38:56doing good.
00:39:08if you do it today in this style just like you just did it be pretty sick
00:39:16think about how good that's gonna feel I can't yet I gotta finish the rest of it
00:39:28yeah we started 11 and a half hours ago so it's a good time actually this is when you rely
00:39:35on your your
00:39:36world cup fitness
00:39:50pretty sure you can just climb one more pitch pretty sure there's like five more pitches
00:40:11good good I'm falling no no you're okay come on come on no it's too much stay with it
00:40:19it just fucked everything up and like that's all right oh my god we just like had like shit
00:40:31really good yeah really good
00:40:40come on come on come on there you come
00:40:45oh fuck I don't have it you guys I don't have it
00:40:51I'm just too tired I'm giving it everything I have
00:40:56no I just just couldn't do it I couldn't keep climbing I'm like super bummed but it's like
00:41:06everything I could possibly do I failed on the last hard pitch pretty heartbroken
00:41:28I think you have to try things that you're afraid of that you might suck at that you're gonna most
00:41:36likely fail at in order to actually really get to know yourself and and know what you're capable of
00:41:49when I was trying to figure out how to make a team to go on this seven week
00:41:56totally unknown jungle bashing crazy alpine Myanmar expedition I wanted Emily to go
00:42:04like I wanted her to go more than anyone like I wouldn't go if Emily didn't go
00:42:11this is like an anti-everest trip
00:42:18think of Everest from the minute you get off the plane to the summit of Everest
00:42:22every step of the way is mapped out
00:42:25Pakakoborazi was exactly the opposite
00:42:29wanting her on the team was met with a lot of resistance
00:42:32but I put my foot down and she was stoked to do it
00:42:45it was a month before we even got to base camp we had to cut our gear by two-thirds
00:42:51ran out of food
00:43:04a lot of the things that I did today I've never done before
00:43:22it's scary the heavy pack peel off that ones a little
00:43:30way more rad way more gnarly than Everest
00:43:38my favorite day on that whole climb was Emily and I were stuck on this ridge for 48 hours
00:43:49winds blowing 60 miles an hour non-stop
00:43:53and at one point Emily looks at me and she's like what do you think you think we're gonna be
00:43:57okay
00:43:58I looked at her and I was like I don't I don't know
00:44:01I hope so and she was like all right cool okay
00:44:10and five minutes later we're laughing and like doing what we can to like stay alive
00:44:18Emily and I have talked a lot about how crazy it was and how strung out we were and how
00:44:24close to just like laying down on the trail and giving up we were and we just didn't
00:44:31she was everything I expected her to be on that trip she was gritty she was funny she helped me
00:44:38when
00:44:38I was low she tackled massive scary things
00:44:583 30 in the morning November 20 something
00:45:08dragged everyone into helping me climb El Cap in a day
00:45:16massive snowstorm is approaching like tomorrow so day after last day of the season basically
00:45:23dragging everyone up here to support me one more character building day on the mountain one more
00:45:29character building day on the mountain it's like 4 a.m. it's way colder than it was last time so
00:45:35that's
00:45:35good if you're a really pro you'd be racked onto the harness already pack your
00:45:39pack your harness that way oh yeah I didn't do that
00:45:4510 more feet today okay yeah exactly
00:45:4810 more feet today go em go here we go you're gonna crush it thanks sonny
00:46:04nice em you're crushing it so such a still day up on the captain
00:46:30creaky old grandpa I'll sit down and tighten the shoes up nice em
00:46:45you're okay oh my god em should I lower you to the ledge
00:46:57emily you're okay
00:47:02lower
00:47:05em talk to us
00:47:07talk to us em
00:47:08are you okay are you right side up
00:47:13she's not right
00:47:17correct
00:47:19I'm gonna be on hold while I try to get a razor okay
00:47:22okay thank you
00:47:22you're stable now huh
00:47:30hang in there um
00:47:31yeah I think we're
00:47:35you know I can tell that it's terrible
00:47:37it's all terrible like you can tell it's a giant fall
00:47:41the only thing I was thinking about was whether or not she'll walk again
00:47:45go to the hospital
00:47:45you all right I ok
00:48:00you all right I think I'll we're good
00:48:00you all right I think I'll actually keep it
00:48:00get
00:48:01get
00:48:02get
00:48:02get
00:48:03get
00:48:05get
00:48:05get
00:48:06get
00:48:06get
00:48:06get
00:48:21I've found this pitch so many times.
00:48:23I know it's slippery, but I've never fallen.
00:48:25I know my feet are cold, but I need to be confident.
00:48:30I wasn't scared, I just...
00:48:35Now it's scary, though, to think about.
00:48:49Oh, I'm sorry, guys.
00:49:00Yeah, still have some stuff to learn, I guess.
00:49:03I guess.
00:49:20Thank you very much.
00:49:33World-class climber Emily Harrington trying to make history, falling from Yosemite's El Capitan, rescued by one of the most
00:49:40famous climbers in the world.
00:49:41Falls are apparel of the sport, no matter your skill level. Thank goodness she was with people like Alex Hunnell.
00:49:48The climber at the center of that Oscar-winning documentary Free Solo.
00:49:51I was blank, so I'm holding the rope. But then when she fell, so much rope fell into the system,
00:49:55like so much rope pooled at my feet, basically, that I wound up actually grabbing the rope with my hands
00:50:01in an effort to catch her sooner.
00:50:02I don't know if you guys had a chance to watch Free Solo.
00:50:05Oh, he was.
00:50:06I mean, it's amazing what they do. And boy, you're going to have some nerves of steel.
00:50:10Yes, you do.
00:50:11You sure do.
00:50:12Full recovery.
00:50:15How are you feeling about it all?
00:50:18Shitty.
00:50:19Shitty?
00:50:19Shitty about it.
00:50:20Like sad?
00:50:21Yeah.
00:50:24Everyone is interested in El Cap and everyone is interested in the fact that I was climbing with Alex Hunnell.
00:50:30So they want to write a story about the damsel in distress who was rescued by the Free Solo star.
00:50:37Oh, adrenaline junkies, like, risking their lives and falling off of sheer cliffs and gets rescued.
00:50:44Like, it's just stupid and not true. And it's misunderstood. I had a bad fall climbing because rock climbing is
00:50:51inherently dangerous. But...
00:50:53And Alex did what exactly what any good partner would do.
00:50:57Yeah. And that's the end of the story.
00:50:59That close to me, I don't...
00:51:02We were choosing to take a certain level of risk that day. It was 100% not his fault what
00:51:10happened.
00:51:10It was 100% not his fault.
00:51:43I was afraid of not being good enough. And now the entire world thinks that as well.
00:51:56She is no Alex Hunnell. Do this without the security of a rope and then you can pretend to have
00:52:02accomplished something.
00:52:05Woman, go back to kitchen, please. Let man's doing this stuff.
00:52:11She's too fat.
00:52:28I'm bruised and have a rope burn on my neck and a pretty intense concussion.
00:52:33I'm slowly recovering, but mentally I'm struggling.
00:52:41I just spiral into the negativity of, oh, I'm never going to be able to get anywhere with this.
00:52:50Lots of doubt and lots of questioning of, like, why am I doing this? Why am I even, like, trying
00:52:56so hard?
00:52:57And just feel like giving up.
00:53:00There's just this really big fear and it's all circling around, like, the whole kid thing and the...
00:53:05The clock is ticking idea and I really do want to have fun and enjoy climbing. I do. I just
00:53:13don't know how right now.
00:53:15Yeah.
00:53:16It's hard to trust myself, I guess.
00:53:34It's Passover. Happy Passover, guys.
00:53:37Hogsamehack, John.
00:53:38Hogsamehack to you.
00:53:39And, uh, we can tell that it's Passover because we are in our houses, hiding from a plague, and because
00:53:45in a recent...
00:53:46Breakfast, podcast, very loud podcast.
00:53:48That smearing blood on your door will stop coronavirus.
00:53:52Tell me that.
00:53:54We are one day short of a month since we've been home.
00:53:58April 12th, Easter Sunday, and...
00:54:04It's Sunday, but it doesn't really matter that it's Sunday.
00:54:07Every day is pretty much very similar.
00:54:15Adrian and I have been physically together for longer than we have ever been.
00:54:21It's felt like this period of deep connection.
00:54:25What's your favorite color?
00:54:28This is like a rapid-fire question.
00:54:31Oh, really? I actually...
00:54:33What's your favorite color?
00:54:35Gray.
00:54:36Gray?
00:54:38That's a terrible favorite color.
00:54:40It's supposed to be okay from mine.
00:54:41My favorite color is green.
00:54:44Really?
00:54:45Yeah.
00:54:45I never knew that.
00:54:46Well, you learn something new every day, don't you?
00:54:48I don't think I've ever bought you anything green.
00:54:50Better start now.
00:54:55We've discussed starting a family in more serious ways,
00:54:59but I really have to finish this project
00:55:03before I can start thinking about taking that stuff.
00:55:06I don't want to take eight years to free climb Mellow Cap in a day.
00:55:09Then I'll be 40, and then, you know, it might be too late.
00:55:25If I let something like fear,
00:55:28something like an accident,
00:55:30stop me from doing something,
00:55:32then I'll never go back.
00:55:34I'll never try something hard again.
00:55:36This is no longer just a way to prove myself.
00:55:40It's a way for me to gain back trust and confidence in myself.
00:55:48I need to go back.
00:55:58I've been really gentle with myself,
00:56:01just accepting that I'm probably going to be a little more conservative this year.
00:56:05I think I'm going to talk to Alex about adjusting my method
00:56:08and just be like,
00:56:09dude, I don't want to, like, go so fast.
00:56:12I want to be able to stop and take a breather,
00:56:14and I want to be able to place more gear
00:56:16and feel way more safe.
00:56:34And so it begins.
00:56:38Emily's Yosemite season.
00:56:453 a.m. I'm out of bed, in coffee.
00:56:50M's waiting for a coffee.
00:56:53The life of a superstar.
00:56:57How's it feeling?
00:56:58It's okay. Where I fell last year.
00:57:00Where you fell last year.
00:57:02Yeah.
00:57:05I'm back in Yosemite for the first time since the accident,
00:57:08and Adrian's been helping me train on the hard pitches
00:57:11and build back that trust.
00:57:14Down to the move pitch.
00:57:18Dun-dun-dun!
00:57:24Yes.
00:57:25There was no, like, massive screaming whippers out of the move today.
00:57:30You just hit it every time. You're stronger.
00:57:33Big support today. Thank you.
00:57:40Physically, I feel better than I have probably ever in my life.
00:57:45I'm trying to figure out the best tactics for climbing the monster.
00:57:50And, um, so I'm going to try putting on my climbing shoe,
00:57:53and then I'm going to try putting on a size 42 TC Pro over top of it
00:57:59to make my foot bigger.
00:58:08I'm so excited about this.
00:58:15And so what time are we thinking about starting?
00:58:17Let's say starting the monster at 6 AM, which means starting climbing at 1 AM.
00:58:22That's what I was hoping to do tonight, you know?
00:58:25I know.
00:58:25Get some.
00:58:26Signed up for it.
00:58:27Yeah, no, no. I'm into it.
00:58:29Knee pads and duct tape and elbow pads.
00:58:31At this point, you're going to get to the top more fresh than when you left the ground.
00:58:35I think it would be tough to make this more comfortable.
00:58:37Yeah, that's the whole point.
00:58:39Yeah, exactly.
00:58:40We're ready for the long haul right now.
00:58:43I'm planning to have two partners.
00:58:45It is really valuable to have Alex as a partner because he is so fast.
00:58:50But up higher when the climbing gets slower, I really like having Adrian there.
00:58:55He's really good emotional support for me.
00:59:05Go get her. Go get her.
00:59:08Move slowly and then, like, see how I feel when I get to it.
00:59:11Yeah, cool.
00:59:12It's the same time as tomorrow as today, basically.
00:59:14I do feel ready.
00:59:15I don't think I'm going to be any more ready than I am right now.
00:59:19If I achieve this, I'll never not be a climber, but I can move on from being solely focused on
00:59:27climbing.
00:59:27I can move forward with my life.
00:59:29I can have a family.
00:59:30I can do all these things I've wanted to do that might not require so much pinpointed focus.
00:59:38It's that meaningful.
00:59:56church chairs.
01:00:02We have the skills on which I am enjoying, like,
01:00:10taking you to some zakz and holding.
01:00:10We are even more小心 steps before it is.
01:00:10When you get them to the cat.
01:00:10Since you look at our害osプ Daily Assistant,
01:00:18Alluned in the atmosphere.
01:00:18and here I'm gonna have to tie my shoes and put them on
01:00:20and sort of like, oh, I've got flashbacks of the last year.
01:00:23PTSD, yeah, exactly.
01:00:25Oh my God, jeez.
01:00:41I'm gonna run around to the top
01:00:43and hopefully get to meet him like two thirds of the way up.
01:00:48All right, Sam, really smooth.
01:00:53Sam, she's done the free blast.
01:00:57Yes.
01:00:58Great job, Deidre.
01:01:00How do you feel?
01:01:01Okay.
01:01:12You heard a call from the film team.
01:01:15Your dad might be starving the monster.
01:01:18It should be right on track.
01:01:27It's so funny that you're wearing two pairs of shoes.
01:02:05Oh, so glad to have that bitch over with.
01:02:08I'm taking off all of my shoes, all four pairs of them that I was wearing.
01:02:15I was wearing Alex's shoes over my shoes so I could climb the monster easier and faster
01:02:20and it works.
01:02:25It's not often that I encounter a completely new rock climbing technique on a big wall.
01:02:29This is one of those times.
01:02:31You've styled the hard stuff.
01:02:33I think I've had a job.
01:02:34Next, Em is gonna lead us to the summit of the mighty El Capitan.
01:02:38That's what's happening next.
01:02:51Good, Em.
01:02:52Really nice.
01:03:02Nice and relaxed.
01:03:31I'm not coming down off the mountain until I set this route.
01:03:36I'm never climbing that bitch again.
01:03:42Nice, Em.
01:03:43Really smooth.
01:03:50I gotta say, you look really fit right now.
01:03:53Like, your arms are, like, muscular.
01:03:58Thanks, Alex.
01:04:00Like, have you been, like, working out more?
01:04:03Yeah.
01:04:05Been putting some effort in.
01:04:08Like, have you really?
01:04:09Because you look like freaking kind of jacks.
01:04:11Yeah.
01:04:12Yeah, dude.
01:04:12I have.
01:04:16Nice.
01:04:19Really good.
01:04:19Come on.
01:04:20So strong.
01:04:22Come on.
01:04:23Come on.
01:04:36Come on.
01:04:37Come on.
01:04:37That's it.
01:04:38Come on.
01:04:39Really good.
01:04:53I have to dig really deep for that one.
01:04:57I set the move pitch on my first try.
01:05:00Everything's going well, I'm waiting for the other shoe to drop.
01:05:27So exciting up here, so fresh, it's going to get dirt all over your face, but otherwise
01:05:33looking good.
01:05:33Thanks Alex.
01:05:35Yeah.
01:05:36I feel good.
01:05:37He was infinitely better than last time.
01:06:23He's bleeding.
01:06:25Yeah, I see.
01:06:26Just a little.
01:06:28Want me to bring you down?
01:06:29Yeah.
01:06:30Okay.
01:06:42I see how bad it is.
01:06:51I just don't know anymore about this whole hole.
01:06:56It just feels too hard for me.
01:07:25I mean, this stupid shit just keeps happening.
01:07:30This worked really hard.
01:07:33You're not done, Em.
01:07:36You're not done.
01:07:40It's so stupid.
01:07:41Why did that have to happen?
01:07:43I didn't do anything wrong.
01:07:45I wasn't running it out.
01:07:46I wasn't doing anything wrong.
01:07:49I'm just scared now.
01:07:50You just bumped your head.
01:07:53You're fine.
01:07:55You didn't break anything.
01:07:57I know.
01:08:00Okay, I'll do it.
01:08:02You're gonna do it today.
01:08:10It's not hopeless.
01:08:12Promise.
01:08:13Okay.
01:08:14I'll try.
01:08:15I'll keep trying.
01:08:16I don't have that much confidence anymore.
01:08:20I think you've got more try on you.
01:08:23You know I'd tell you if I didn't.
01:08:25I don't.
01:08:26I don't know.
01:08:27I think you can do it.
01:08:28You can try.
01:08:56It's not bonsai.
01:08:58It's not a bad knife.
01:09:04I'm used to be a good knife
01:09:24Super good.
01:09:26Do it super good.
01:09:28Come on.
01:09:29Yeah.
01:09:30Come on.
01:09:31Come on.
01:09:32Come on.
01:09:32That's right.
01:09:41Come on.
01:09:44Come on.
01:09:45Come on.
01:09:58Come on.
01:10:00Come on.
01:10:06Come on.
01:10:08Come on.
01:10:17Come on.
01:10:19Come on.
01:10:26Woo!
01:10:27Woo!
01:10:28Woo!
01:10:28Woo!
01:10:28Woo!
01:10:29Woo!
01:10:30Woo!
01:10:31Woo!
01:10:32Woo!
01:10:36Woo!
01:10:36Thanks.
01:10:38No matter what happens, I'm proud of myself.
01:10:42I'm really proud of myself.
01:10:44Look at the sunset.
01:10:50Oh!
01:10:54Got to keep climbing.
01:10:57Trying to rest before the last hard pitch.
01:11:00The A5.
01:11:01Yeah.
01:11:02The site of...
01:11:05Last time's failure.
01:11:06Last time.
01:11:07Last year's failure.
01:11:07Mm-hmm.
01:11:08Yeah.
01:11:09Pretty nervous for it.
01:11:12And we're out of water.
01:11:14And we're out of water.
01:11:14We are out of water.
01:11:15It sucks.
01:11:15Poor mountain guide planning.
01:11:22You look great.
01:11:23So proud of you.
01:11:24Have fun on this.
01:11:26This is the pitch you earn.
01:11:35Come on.
01:11:40Come on.
01:11:44Come on.
01:11:46Nice.
01:12:02Come on.
01:12:04Come on.
01:12:10Here we are.
01:12:12Come on.
01:12:14Come on.
01:12:17Come on.
01:12:18Come on.
01:12:22Come on.
01:12:23Come on.
01:12:25Come on.
01:12:27You know what to do.
01:12:50Come on.
01:12:52Come on.
01:12:55Come on.
01:13:03Yeah!
01:13:05Mom!
01:13:08Oh, my God!
01:13:11Emily!
01:13:20Oh, my God!
01:13:23Holy shit, Emily!
01:13:25Holy shit, Emily!
01:13:34I can't believe I did that.
01:13:36Okay, I gotta keep it together.
01:13:38We got five more pitches.
01:13:40Oh, my God.
01:13:41Oh, my God.
01:13:41Oh, my God.
01:13:47I've always dreamed of being able to do this.
01:13:49And now it's happening.
01:13:51And it's just crazy how it's happening.
01:13:54It was so close so many times to falling just now.
01:13:57So close.
01:13:59But I just didn't fucking let go.
01:14:00No, my God.
01:14:12Oh, my God.
01:14:15Oh, my God.
01:14:27Oh, my God.
01:14:39Oh, fuck you!
01:15:02I'm really, really happy and exhausted and my head kind of hurts and I'm thirsty and everything
01:15:10is perfect.
01:15:17I love you so much.
01:15:22You did it.
01:15:27I'm so proud of you.
01:15:28You worked so hard and you believed.
01:15:3821-12, 21-13.
01:16:05You earned that.
01:16:08Mm-hmm.
01:16:30I can say hi to everyone.
01:16:31Nice work.
01:16:32Thanks.
01:16:33Well done.
01:16:34You look worse.
01:16:37Actually, you look pretty good.
01:16:38He's went downhill a little bit after he left.
01:16:40You had to make an effort, dude.
01:16:43Why'd you leave us?
01:16:45Oh, my God.
01:16:46That was so sweet.
01:16:52Oh, my God.
01:16:54Oh, my God.
01:16:55That is so sweet.
01:17:11That is so sweet.
01:17:43I can still hear her voice in my head and I think about whenever something's hard or
01:17:55something comes up that feels tricky or feels complicated, especially as like a woman and
01:18:02a mother, I try to think about how Hillary would handle it.
01:18:19Climbing is dangerous and it entails a level of risk, but climbing has given me so much
01:18:25and I'm just not willing to give it up.
01:18:33I'm excited for what's next.
01:18:35Bye-bye.
01:18:56I know the rise and I know the fall.
01:19:01Cause a voice inside knows me best of all.
01:19:09If I can't run, I'll walk or crawl.
01:19:16I'll restart, restart.
01:19:18I'll give my all to find my place, my place on the wall.
01:19:44I'll follow the path into the sky to kiss the heavens before I die.
01:19:58Amidst the clouds, the world seems small.
01:20:04His tired heart still wants it all.
01:20:10I'll find my place, my place on the wall.
01:20:18I'll find my place, my place on the wall.
01:20:26I'll find my place, my place, my place.
01:20:37I'll be in the sky.
01:20:39I'll be in the sky.
01:20:41I'll be in the sky.
01:20:41I'll be in the sky.
01:20:42I'll be in the sky.
01:20:43I'll be in the sky.
01:20:44I'll be in the sky.
01:20:44I'll be in the sky.
01:20:44I'll be in the sky.
01:20:45I'll be in the sky.
01:20:46I'll be in the sky.
01:20:48I'll be in the sky.
01:20:51I'll be in the sky.
01:20:54I'll be in the sky.
01:20:56I found my place, my place on the wall, I found my place, my place on the wall.
01:21:53So, I found my place.
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