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America’s Test Kitchen Season 25 Episode 26
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00:00Today on America's Test Kitchen, Lon makes Julia ha-gow, Jack talks all about chicorees,
00:15and Keith makes Bridget Hong Kong-style wonton soup.
00:19It's all coming up right here on America's Test Kitchen.
00:30Dim sum was popularized in the teahouses of Guangdong, served as little bites to be enjoyed while chatting and socializing.
00:38And today Lon's going to show us how to make the iconic, well-loved dumpling hargow,
00:43which is what you commonly find on dim sum menus these days.
00:45Hargow was originated by Cantonese cooks, and if you know anything about Cantonese cooking,
00:50it's about taking one ingredient and really highlighting its flavor.
00:54In the case of this recipe, it's the shrimp in the filling.
00:57But before we can get to that, we need to make that wrapper.
01:00So the first ingredient we need is wheat starch.
01:03Now, that's what you have when you take all the gluten-forming proteins out of regular flour.
01:08I have five and a quarter ounces here.
01:10I like to go by weight.
01:12It's just a little bit more precise, and we want to make sure we nail the texture.
01:16But if you don't have a scale, that's one cup and two tablespoons of wheat starch.
01:19It's going to go right into this food processor.
01:23Next up, I have a second starch.
01:25This is one and three-quarter ounces of tapioca starch and a pinch of salt to season.
01:30Now, this isn't traditionally done in a food processor.
01:32You'll see cooks just put those starches in a bowl and stir with chopsticks.
01:36But that can be hard to do right, and so I think a food processor makes a lot more sense.
01:42I'm going to give this a quick buzz just to mix everything.
01:46And now I'm going to bring some water up to a boil.
01:49You want the water to be at a rolling boil.
01:52It has to be hot enough to cook the starches in that dough.
01:55We want that because that's going to give our dough stretch.
01:58Okay.
01:58Those are big bubbles.
02:00I'm going to measure out a half of a cup plus one tablespoon of boiling water.
02:08This is going to go right in.
02:12And then we're going to do nothing.
02:15That was easy.
02:15What I want to do is to give that hot water time to cook the starch.
02:20If I just got that blending, the spinning action of that blade would actually cool it too much
02:25and you wouldn't get the structure you needed.
02:27You'd end up with kind of a paste.
02:28So it's a five-second wait before we pop the lid back on.
02:32And I'm going to give this one quick buzz to move that water around.
02:36And now we're going to add four teaspoons of melted lard.
02:44That lard is in there to tenderize the dough so it's not too chewy, too resilient.
02:49And now I'm just going to turn this on.
02:53I'm going to let this run for one minute.
02:55And in that time, that dough is going to come together and pull away from the sides of the processor.
03:00Perfect.
03:05One last step.
03:07And there's lightly greased our counter.
03:11And this dough needs just a little bit more work.
03:16How cool is that?
03:17It's warm.
03:18It is.
03:18It's a really nice dough to work with.
03:21And I'm just going to knead it.
03:22Sometimes if you mismeasure, it might not come together.
03:25If that's the case, you can add water, a half a teaspoon at a time.
03:29So it's been about a minute.
03:30This is looking and feeling really nice and cohesive.
03:33So I just want to wrap this up so it doesn't dry out while we make our filling.
03:38Julia, ready to make the filling?
03:40Yes.
03:40All right.
03:41I've got six ounces of shrimp here.
03:43It's been peeled, deveined.
03:44The tails have been removed.
03:46Next up, I've got two tablespoons of finely chopped canned bamboo shoots.
03:50If you can find fresh, that's cool.
03:51If you can't find either forms of bamboo, you can use canned water chestnuts.
03:56This is just to add a little bit of texture.
03:58Next up, I have a tablespoon of lard.
04:02Now, what is traditionally used is fatback.
04:05It's just the kind of the really clean white pork fat.
04:09And while you could use oil, the lard is going to set up more firmly and be firmer at room
04:14temperature, making the filling easier to work with.
04:16Makes sense.
04:17I have one teaspoon of Shaoxing wine.
04:19It's just a nice bit of nuttiness, a touch of acidity to brighten everything.
04:24And then I have some aromatics, a half a teaspoon of minced garlic and a half a teaspoon of finely
04:30grated ginger.
04:30I have a quarter teaspoon of ground white pepper, very traditional, a quarter teaspoon of sugar, a quarter
04:39teaspoon of table salt, and a quarter teaspoon of soy sauce.
04:42That soy sauce, it's there to make the filling a little bit more savory.
04:46So, the lid goes on.
04:48I'm going to pulse this mixture until the shrimp is finely chopped and everything is well combined.
04:53It's going to be anywhere between 10 to 20 pulses.
04:56That looks great.
04:57So, this is just going to go right into that bowl.
05:01I'm going to cover it and then pop it into the fridge for 20 minutes where it'll chill and
05:05firm up and be easier to work with.
05:08Julia, the dough is done.
05:10The filling's chilled.
05:11Let's make some hargo.
05:12Okay.
05:12Before we start, I'm going to lightly grease our counter.
05:17First step is to divide this into four equal pieces.
05:23I'm going to place these three pieces over there.
05:26I'm going to keep them covered so they don't dry out.
05:29And this, I'm going to roll into a six-inch log.
05:34Let's see.
05:35Okay, and now we'll divide this into six equal pieces.
05:44They always look like marshmallows.
05:46They really do look like candies.
05:48Right.
05:49And then, if you don't mind, would you move these under the plastic wrap so they stay moist?
05:55All right, Julia.
05:56Now we have our little marshmallows.
05:58And traditionally, chefs would use a Chinese cleaver.
06:00And they'd put it flat on the counter and press and smear the dough into a round.
06:06Really hard to do.
06:08It sounds hard.
06:09I learned from Grace Young that there's an easier way.
06:11And you do it with a tortilla press.
06:12Makes sense.
06:13Yeah.
06:13So I've got one right here.
06:14I'm going to lightly grease it.
06:18I'm looking for a three and a quarter inch wide circle.
06:22And it's always best to press lightly first.
06:26Not bad.
06:27Not bad.
06:28All right.
06:29So let's get this off of there.
06:32I'd like my scraper for this.
06:35I'm going to put a little bit of filling right in the center.
06:38Especially if this is your first time doing this, you want to make sure you're not using too much.
06:42And it is a heaping half a tablespoon of filling.
06:46I'm going to place this dough over the fingers.
06:48And I'll start by making the first pleat right over my pinky.
06:52And it's just a little pinch.
06:55And I'll pull it up so it's resting kind of above the filling.
06:58Okay.
06:58I'm going to use my index finger of the other hand to kind of push the dough to make that second pleat.
07:05And I'll just place it.
07:06And then you just keep repeating that pushing motion with your index finger to create the subsequent pleats.
07:12And you'll rotate this dumpling in your hand as you go.
07:15And once you're about three quarters, that's it.
07:19You're done with pleating.
07:21And you'll, like, kind of press the rest of that leftover dough up against the bottom.
07:26Okay.
07:26We have all this excess dough here, and we don't need it.
07:29So I'm going to use my thumb and forefinger to seal the dumpling by pressing.
07:33And then we'll just pull off the excess.
07:36And you have this beautiful little dumpling.
07:38Oh, it's a little purse.
07:39Yeah.
07:40It is a little purse.
07:41How cute is that?
07:42And so this can go right over here on the sheet pan.
07:45Okay.
07:46So I want to keep these covered so they don't dry out.
07:49So we'll keep going until we get our 24 hargau made.
07:52All right.
07:53Now that our dumplings are made, it's time to steep them.
07:56Okay.
07:56I've got a 14-inch flat-bottom wok here, and in here I have four cups of water.
08:01While it comes up to a boil, let's get our dumplings into a basket.
08:05Okay.
08:05I've already started, and you can see that these are bamboo steamer baskets.
08:09They're 10 inches across.
08:11Inside is an 8-inch parchment round that I've lightly greased.
08:14And I'm just going to arrange these little dumplings.
08:18I'll just stack these, pop the lid on.
08:20Our water is up to a boil.
08:23This is going to go right on top, and they'll take 8 minutes to cook.
08:27Now, if you don't have a wok, that's okay.
08:29You can use a 12-inch skillet.
08:31Because a skillet is a little bit wider on the bottom, water evaporates more quickly,
08:35so you really need to keep an eye on the water.
08:37Make sure you're not scorching your skillet.
08:39Julia, it's been 8 minutes.
08:40I'll shut this off.
08:42I'm going to pull these out of here.
08:45This is almost done.
08:46We're going to give them a 10-minute rest.
08:48All right.
08:48But you didn't even check that they were done.
08:51You're just trusting the timing here.
08:53It's going to work.
08:538 minutes in the cooking, 10 minutes in resting.
08:56You shouldn't peak.
08:56You should trust the timing.
08:57Okay.
08:58You ready?
08:59You think?
09:00I think so.
09:01These are ready as well.
09:02How cute are they?
09:03Oh, they're almost translucent.
09:06They are.
09:06They're also known as crystal dumplings, and it's a reference to that translucent wrapper.
09:12But how about three?
09:13Oh, those look picture perfect.
09:16Chili oil.
09:17One of my favorite condiments.
09:18It enhances the dumpling without overwhelming it, which soy sauce can.
09:22And, of course, you can buy this, but you can also make it yourself, and you can find that recipe on our website.
09:27Lon, these look gorgeous.
09:29Julia, we did it.
09:34It is so good.
09:38The shrimp has so much flavor.
09:40Like you said, dim sum is highlighting one key flavor, and it really comes through.
09:45These are picture perfect.
09:46I couldn't have done it without you.
09:47Lon, this was really fun to learn.
09:49Thank you for showing me how.
09:50Thanks for coming along.
09:52If you want to make this gem of a dumpling, start by making a stretchy dough in the food processor with wheat starch and boiling water.
10:00Add a variety of aromatics to the shrimp filling, and practice makes perfect when shaping the dumplings.
10:05From America's Test Kitchen, Lon's own recipe for Hargau.
10:10This would be fun to make with my daughter.
10:11Oh, yeah.
10:17If you love vegetables like I do, shopping in the supermarket in the winter can be a little sad, but it doesn't have to be.
10:26My guess is you're walking right past these beautiful chicories, and maybe you're not buying them because you don't know what they are.
10:33The reason I love chicories is because they're so bold.
10:36That means they have a sturdy texture that works both in a salad bowl and in cooking, and they've got some bitterness that stands up to rich ingredients.
10:43I love these bitter chicories with poached eggs or bacon in a salad.
10:49So let me start with the things I bet you know, which is radicchio.
10:53Now, the long, skinny variety here is treviso.
10:56The round, cabbage-like is kiyoja.
10:59They're both wonderful not only in salads, but you can grill them, you can braise them, you can roast them.
11:05I'm pretty sure you're familiar with Belgian endive.
11:07It's got this white color from being grown indoors or underground away from sunlight, so the chlorophyll can't develop.
11:15Roast those endive.
11:16Oh, it becomes so sweet.
11:18Or, of course, use them in salad.
11:20Next up, I've got chicory.
11:22Now, maybe this is why things are confusing, because the entire family is known as chicories.
11:26They're actually related to sunflowers.
11:28But then there's a specific green that we call chicory.
11:31Now, if you've been to New Orleans, you may be familiar with the coffee they made with chicory.
11:34It's actually the root of the plant that's dried and ground, and it was originally added to stretch the coffee.
11:40But it's now added because it makes it mellow and a little bit chocolatey.
11:44Now, in terms of the green you're going to buy in the supermarket for cooking, it's pretty bitter.
11:48This one is probably best cooked.
11:50It's got a sturdy texture.
11:52Yeah, you can put it in a salad bowl, maybe with a warm vinaigrette, but I like it cooked.
11:56In the middle here in front of me is escrow.
11:59Now, this is my personal fave, because this is what my Italian grandmother would make.
12:03She would braise it with anchovies and golden raisins and pine nuts.
12:07The center leaves are also tender enough to use in a salad bowl.
12:10And finally, I have frisee here in front and curly endive.
12:13They're actually the same plant.
12:14Frisee is just younger and more tender and immature.
12:17Frisee means curly in French, and it's obviously got curly leaves.
12:21This is really best in the salad bowl.
12:24Now, the curly endive, you can cook with this.
12:25You can also use it in a salad, but it's pretty chewy and sturdy.
12:29So there you have it.
12:31The wonderful world of chicories.
12:34The bold and the beautiful.
12:36From their filling, the construction, to how they're presented, Hong Kong-style wontons are different from other wontons out there.
12:50Now, I'm very excited, because I love wontons of all shapes and sizes.
12:54And Keith is here.
12:55He's going to show us how to make a gorgeous Hong Kong-style wonton soup.
13:00Did I get that right?
13:00You got that right.
13:01So the star of this soup are these shrimp-filled wontons.
13:05They're absolutely delicious, very delicate.
13:08And that just shows how important seafood is in the cuisine of Hong Kong.
13:12So I have 12 large shrimp here, which are 26-30 shrimp per pound.
13:18And I'm going to peel these, and I'm going to save all these peels.
13:23Now, we want to take the vein out of this.
13:25Start with a paring knife, and just cut gently into the top of that.
13:29Nice.
13:29And just slip that out like that.
13:31A lot of the fillings that we see, that you typically see with recipes, chop the shrimp.
13:35We like to keep them in nice, large pieces.
13:38You kind of bite into that wonton, you have a nice burst of shrimp flavor there.
13:41Okay, gotcha.
13:42I'm going to take these, and I'm going to cut these in half crosswise, like so.
13:45And that is our shrimp, and we're saving our shrimp shells.
13:49Now, for the pork, predominantly shrimp, but we do have a small amount of pork here.
13:54I have four ounces of ground pork in this bowl.
13:56And before we add any of our flavorings, I'm just going to take four bundled chopsticks,
14:01like this, and I'm going to mix the pork.
14:03So I'm just going to take that and continue to mix this for about five minutes.
14:08Gotcha.
14:09Often with ground meat, we avoid doing this stuff because we want it to be super tender
14:13and almost fall apart.
14:14Think things like Italian meatballs or meatloaf.
14:17But in this case, that structure that's being developed by the meos and the stickiness is
14:22going to work to the advantage of the filling.
14:24That's right.
14:25Okay, it's been five minutes.
14:27My arm's aching.
14:29But you can see that the pork is all stuck together with one another, and it's kind of
14:34forming this nice ball that won't stick to the sides of the bowl.
14:37It's kind of pulling away from the sides of the bowl like that.
14:40Now we can get into our flavorings.
14:41So we have one scallion that's been minced.
14:47I have a tablespoon of Shaoxing wine.
14:51I have a half teaspoon of toasted sesame oil.
14:54Some nuttiness.
14:56Two teaspoons of salty, umami-rich oyster sauce.
15:00One teaspoon of soy sauce.
15:02I also have an eighth of a teaspoon of white pepper and an eighth of a teaspoon of table
15:07salt.
15:08And now for my favorite ingredient, which I think makes this wonton really, really pop.
15:13We have a half teaspoon of dried flounder powder.
15:16And what it is, it's salted and dried flounder that they ground up.
15:20And it adds an umami flavor.
15:23It adds those glutamates that we really like.
15:24And it's not overtly fishy, but it does kind of give a nice kind of seafood background to
15:29the pork.
15:31Really worth finding this.
15:32Okay.
15:33That's beautiful.
15:34Okay.
15:34So that is our pork.
15:36So we have our pork and our shrimp, and then we can make wontons.
15:39Okay, great.
15:40Now it's time to put together our broth for our soup.
15:43So we have this great chicken stock with a ton of gelatin and a ton of flavor that we
15:48made ourselves by cooking chicken parts with some aromatics like ginger and scallions.
15:53It's really important to make your own stock here.
15:55And we have the recipe for how to make it on our website.
15:58Now we need to flavor it for the soup.
16:00Okay.
16:00And that's flavored with seafood.
16:02So we're going to use our shrimp shells that I reserved from earlier, and we're going
16:06to make a stock out of that.
16:08Right.
16:08So I have a teaspoon of oil that's heating in this medium saucepan over high heat.
16:12And we're going to brown our shrimp shells before we add our stock.
16:15So I'm going to add this to the pan, and then we're just going to cook this for two
16:21minutes until those shrimp shells turn color and start to get a little spotty browning
16:25on that.
16:26Gotcha.
16:27It's been two minutes, and you can see that the shrimp shells have changed to that pink
16:32color, and we're starting to get some browning on that.
16:34That's great.
16:35So I'm going to add four cups of our chicken stock that we made.
16:42And two cups of water.
16:48And just a smidgen of salt, a quarter teaspoon of table salt.
16:53We're going to bring this up to a simmer.
16:54Now we don't want to cook the shrimp shells that long.
16:56The flavor is pretty volatile.
16:58So what we're going to do is we're going to bring that up to a boil.
17:00Okay.
17:01Okay, you can see that our broth is now up to a simmer.
17:04I'm going to cut the heat fully here and let it steep for 15 minutes.
17:08But before we let that steep, I'm going to add some more of this dried flounder powder,
17:12another half teaspoon.
17:14Gotcha.
17:14I'm seeing a theme here.
17:16It is a theme.
17:17So 15 minutes, and then we can strain those shells off.
17:19Okay.
17:20Shells have been steeping in our broth for 15 minutes.
17:22Now it's time to strain them off.
17:26Slowly pour it through a fine mesh strainer.
17:30Okay.
17:30We got all the liquid out of that.
17:32Put our broth back into our saucepan.
17:35Slowly and gently.
17:39Okay.
17:40That looks great.
17:42Okay.
17:42I'm going to season this with a little bit of soy.
17:45I have two teaspoons of soy.
17:47And another eighth teaspoon of white pepper.
17:50Stir that in.
17:53This smells so good already.
17:54And that is our broth for our soup.
17:56I'm just going to put a lid on this.
17:59Set that aside.
18:00Now we can make our wontons.
18:02Okay.
18:03You're going to help me.
18:03Okay.
18:04So I am going to start with a heaping half teaspoon of our pork mixture.
18:09Put that into the center of our wonton.
18:11Okay.
18:12And then we'll take a piece of our shrimp and nettle that right in the pork.
18:16Now, for wrapping.
18:18And I like to do this while it's on the counter.
18:21These two.
18:22Like that.
18:22We're going to do a monkey see monkey do here.
18:24Yep.
18:24And those two.
18:26So meeting all four corners.
18:28All right.
18:29And then bringing those corners up.
18:32We're just making a purse.
18:35All right.
18:35So these pointy corners come up.
18:38Yep.
18:38Exactly.
18:38Like that.
18:39Now, it might seem a little hard right now, but what we're going to do is we're going
18:43to nestle the wonton in between our thumb and forefinger.
18:47Okay.
18:48Just underneath like that.
18:49Like that.
18:50And then you're just kind of squeezing here.
18:53You're squeezing the neck right above the filling.
18:56All right.
18:57Kind of pushing it down a little bit?
18:58Yep.
18:58Pushing it down.
18:59You can compact it a little bit.
19:00And it's going to stretch that wonton skin just a little bit.
19:03All right.
19:03You don't want to do it too, too hard.
19:05Yes.
19:05And you don't want to pinch the tops together too much.
19:09You want it to kind of splay out like that.
19:11That's it.
19:12How's that?
19:13Perfect.
19:13All right.
19:14Okay.
19:14So we're just going to put this onto a floured rim baking sheet.
19:17I'm just going to take a damp towel and cover those wontons and make sure that they
19:21don't dry out.
19:21So we're going to continue to make these and we're going to make 24 wontons all together.
19:25Okay.
19:26We've done all of our prep work and now it's time to put the soup together.
19:30So it's going to start with some baby bok choy.
19:32I have two heads of baby bok choy that I've separated the greens from and we're going
19:36to blanch that in four quarts of water in that Dutch oven.
19:39Okay.
19:39We don't want to cook that that much.
19:42Just like a minute or so is all it's going to need.
19:44We just want to soften the tops and soften the bottom a little bit.
19:50Okay.
19:50It's been a minute and I want to get our bok choy out of this pot.
19:56So I'm just going to take a slotted spoon, put this onto a plate, letting that water
20:00drain.
20:01Beautiful green color.
20:02Gorgeous.
20:03Okay.
20:03That's a bark choy.
20:04Now we can cook our noodles.
20:05I have six ounces of wonton noodles here.
20:08Very, very thin and highly alkalized.
20:10So they're going to have a nice chew, nice resiliency.
20:13Gotcha.
20:13So that's going to go into our boiling water.
20:17Just going to stir that to break those nests up.
20:21It's been about two minutes and I just want to test these noodles to see if they're done.
20:26We don't want to overcook these noodles.
20:27Mmm.
20:30Hot.
20:31Hot.
20:31Mmm.
20:32That's perfect though.
20:33Tender, but still resilient.
20:35I like that.
20:36That's the best way to test.
20:37So I'm going to take this.
20:38I still, I'm going to use this water to cook our wonton.
20:41So I'm going to use a skimmer and tongs.
20:45Carefully transfer this over to a colander.
20:50Bok choy noodles are done and now we can cook our wontons.
20:55Now I'm only going to cook eight wontons for the two of us.
20:58So into our boiling water.
21:00So we're just going to stir this.
21:02Make sure they don't stick to the bottom.
21:04Like that.
21:05Now we're going to cook those for four minutes and what we're looking for is the skins will
21:08become translucent and they'll start to float to the top and that's when we know they're
21:12done.
21:12Okay, great.
21:13Wontons have about 30 more seconds to go, but we can start building our bowls.
21:16I'm just going to take a healthy nest of noodles.
21:19Long noodles look beautiful.
21:23Now we can add our wontons to this.
21:26Okay.
21:27That has become nicely translucent.
21:28You can see the shrimp and the pork in there.
21:31Absolutely lovely.
21:33A couple pieces of bok choy and then ladle it over everything here.
21:41Nice rich broth.
21:43Look at that.
21:43It looks great.
21:44That is gorgeous.
21:45We can garnish this with a little toasted sesame oil if you would like.
21:50A little goes the long way there.
21:52Yeah.
21:52I also have some red vinegar here.
21:54Now I like to dip my wontons in that separately, but you can also drizzle some over your bowl
21:59if you'd like.
22:00I suggest we dip our wontons today.
22:05Absolutely delicious though.
22:07That is phenomenal.
22:08Yeah.
22:08You get that burst of shrimp from that little nugget of shrimp in there.
22:12You sure do.
22:13But I can't get over those wontons.
22:15The skins in it, the wonton skins, they're gossamer thin.
22:17They don't take over at all.
22:19They're not doughy.
22:19The shrimp is not overcooked at all.
22:21Now what about the broth?
22:24Oh, it's so rich.
22:25A lot of body in that broth.
22:26Not over at least seafood-y or fishy, but just in the background.
22:30A little bit of richness, umami, savory flavors.
22:33You're exactly right.
22:34Because it is a note that's in there, but it's not overly fishy at all.
22:38That's great, isn't it?
22:39This is everything in a bowl.
22:42It's all the great flavors.
22:43A little bit of the land, a little bit of the sea.
22:46Very Hong Kong.
22:47Yep, that's right.
22:48Thanks, Keith.
22:48You're welcome.
22:49So if you'd like to give yourself a try at making this wonton soup,
22:53infuse homemade chicken stock with shrimp shells and flounder powder.
22:57Top the pork-filled dumplings with shrimp before shaping.
23:00And then ladle the shrimp broth over bok choy, noodles, and, of course, those wontons.
23:07So from America's Test Kitchen, absolutely spectacular Hong Kong-style wonton noodle soup.
23:15You can get this fabulous recipe and all the recipes from this season,
23:19along with product reviews and select episodes.
23:21And those are all on our website, America's Test Kitchen dot com slash TV.
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