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00:01Come with me on a voyage through Spain.
00:07Buenos dias, mi capitán.
00:10As I revealed the secrets.
00:12What an amazing building.
00:13That is magnificent.
00:15Of places you think you know.
00:17Look at the size of this.
00:20And the little known regions.
00:22That is spectacular.
00:25Just waiting to be discovered.
00:27This is very nostalgic for me.
00:29Smell the money.
00:31Suddenly we're on the Riviera.
00:33But I'm inside the barrel.
00:35Together we'll go beyond the hotspots.
00:37Absolutely spectacular.
00:39It's so remote.
00:41To the places where the magic is made.
00:44You have to love heat and smoke and flame.
00:49I can't wait to show you.
00:57Today.
00:58Oh, what a great start.
01:00We'll explore Ibiza.
01:01A site of Ibiza that not many people have seen.
01:04And discover an island full of surprises.
01:07Can you just show me your technique?
01:09You're the rabbit one.
01:12With a deep history.
01:13This is a first for me.
01:16Our lady is looking very fertile.
01:18And connection to the sea.
01:20Hello Formentera.
01:23Where avoiding the crowds is easier than you'd imagine.
01:27Many people don't glimpse this at all.
01:29What an amazing view.
01:37Our journey through Spain continues on an idyllic Mediterranean island with a big reputation.
01:45Ibiza.
01:4790 miles from the mainland, Ibiza welcomes over 3 million visitors a year.
01:53Drawn to its beaches, bars and status as the party capital of the world.
01:59But this is an island of two halves.
02:02The bustling party-centric south and west.
02:06And the tranquil north and east.
02:08Full of rolling hills and quiet coves.
02:12I'm going to take you beyond the nightclubs and the super yachts.
02:15To an island with a rich culture and history.
02:19Just waiting to be discovered.
02:25But, as it's our first night, you can't come to Ibiza and not do a little bit of dancing.
02:32Night is falling on the island of fun.
02:35It is party time.
02:37There's going to be an insistent beat.
02:40The kids are going to strut their moves on the dance floor.
02:43This is Ibiza.
02:44But not as you know it, baby.
02:47Every year, after the local saints day, around 12 miles from the bustling Ibiza harbour,
02:53just outside the village of San Augusti, locals gather for celebration and thanksgiving.
02:59To indulge in food, festivities and games.
03:05All centred around the old village well.
03:10What does any community need?
03:12Water.
03:13Water is life.
03:15And you think about that particularly hard when you're on an island.
03:19So every year you give thanks for the well that contains the water.
03:26Traditional well parties like these became almost extinct during the 20th century.
03:31Now 23 are held across the island every year.
03:35As a new generation of Ibizhencos helps to revive them, including Llorens.
03:42This well has been here at least from the 18th century.
03:45They would be grateful to all the water that they got.
03:49So they would come over here and they would do all the dance we do and then, yeah, have some
03:54fun.
03:54It's a kind of Thanksgiving.
03:56Exactly.
03:57Almost like a harvest festival.
03:58Yeah.
03:59Does this tradition manage to survive despite the pressure of tourism?
04:02Well, this tradition stopped for a long time, but I started when I was five.
04:10Many of my friends did as well.
04:12I think it's wonderful to see the way that you revived it and the way you're keeping it alive.
04:16And may it long continue.
04:18Thanks so much.
04:21The party involves a lot of games, the most important played by the old well.
04:28As soon as you put your foot on the ground, you're out.
04:31Out.
04:31Party organiser Ines is showing me the ropes.
04:34What is the origin of this marvellous game with the well?
04:37All people around there come here to pick the water.
04:41And there's only one of two wells on the area.
04:45They have a lot of cues and this could more quickly take out water.
04:51Oh, yes, I know. I understand.
04:52So you'd have cues of people, so the faster you could get the water out, the better for everyone.
04:57Yes.
04:58The aim is to use one leg to raise the bucket as quickly as possible until it reaches the top
05:04of the well.
05:05It's got the rhythm. It's got the rhythm.
05:07All the while balancing on the other.
05:11Yay!
05:15Someone discovered that this method of putting your leg out like that and with a long, long pull on the
05:20leg and a push like that, that that was the quickest way to do it.
05:24Yes.
05:25I'm convinced that if I tried, I'd follow the bucket to the bottom of the well.
05:31I point Llorens as my representative.
05:35Are you quite experienced?
05:36It's been a few years since I've done it, but yeah, I'll do it.
05:41Since I've been young, I've been doing it.
05:44Good luck, good luck.
05:45Thanks.
05:51The leg is very long.
05:53Very long.
05:57Oh, I think he's in trouble now.
06:05Oh, no!
06:09Even the kids in the village can't necessarily do it.
06:14Yeah, it's been a few years since I've been here, so I'm not that used to it.
06:20As the evening wears on, each time the music starts up, the games give way to an extraordinary folk dance.
06:29This party is definitely one of the most exotic I've attended.
06:36I've travelled extensively in Spain.
06:38I've seen many regional dances.
06:41I've never seen anything that resembles this one.
06:50There's one young man there.
06:51His foot comes over the top of his head.
06:54Amazing!
06:56The dance is called Bal de Pages,
06:59and it's performed only on Ibiza and the neighbouring island of Formentera.
07:05No-one knows its exact origins, though it's been recorded here from the 13th century,
07:11and is thought to have Arabic and pagan influences.
07:15This has all the feelings of a mating dance,
07:19because the ladies are quite still and very demure,
07:23their eyes are cast down,
07:25and the men are the peacocks.
07:28They make the display.
07:29They hop about and make themselves obvious.
07:32They're trying to be attractive to the female.
07:34Well, that's my theory anyway.
07:40I saw you dancing just now.
07:42You really get your leg up high.
07:44How did you learn to do that?
07:46Well, I was very elastic since I was a kid.
07:49And I loved the vulture and dressing up like this.
07:53Can you just show me your technique?
07:55I do it like this, and then when you hop like this.
07:59What?
08:01That's sensational.
08:03And you enjoy it so much, right?
08:05Yes, I do.
08:07Anyone is allowed to join in,
08:09and Inés has kindly agreed to get me ready.
08:13Inés, I'm having such fun.
08:15Tell me about the dance.
08:16There's nothing like it in Spain.
08:18I've never seen anything like it.
08:19No.
08:20In a way, it's very modest.
08:21In a way, a little bit flirtatious as well.
08:24Yeah, maybe.
08:24Keeping your eyes down like this.
08:26It's more timid though, or...
08:28Yes, timid.
08:29The lady's not taking the initiative.
08:31Yeah.
08:32She's waiting to be courted.
08:33Yeah.
08:33Show me your feet.
08:36I move very, very short.
08:39And what are you doing with your eyes?
08:42My eyes look at the feet, and I move around the man.
08:50Very good, very good.
08:51And what's the man doing?
08:52The man up legs and down, one leg and another leg,
08:58and I can move around there.
08:59One unit finish.
09:08And finally...
09:09Yes, exactly.
09:12Very good.
09:14Nice.
09:17I love discovering a local festival.
09:20It gives such insight into people and place.
09:25Here, tradition hasn't died or even dwindled.
09:28Actually, it's been revived.
09:30It's been carried forward with the enthusiasm of the young.
09:34And these customs are not being suffocated by tourism,
09:37because the tourists don't know that this exists.
09:40It's an island of local culture at the heart of the island.
09:46Next.
09:47What a place to live.
09:49I visit a living museum.
09:52Does this still work?
09:54And take a trip back in time.
09:57I shall breathe in.
10:12It's my second day revealing Ibiza's hidden coves and corners.
10:17Home to just over 160,000 permanent residents,
10:21the number of people on the island nearly doubles in the summer months.
10:26But there's still plenty of places to be discovered,
10:29some of them hiding in plain sight.
10:33I'm starting the day across the harbour from the old town,
10:37visiting a column of Ibiza history
10:39on which ships and boats in this area have relied for centuries.
10:45Encantado.
10:46I'm Michael.
10:46Santi.
10:48The world's first lighthouses date back to the third century BC.
10:53What a place to live.
10:55Si, es fantástico.
10:57Even Santi's has been burning bright for over 160 years.
11:05This is your home.
11:06Si, mi casa.
11:08Desde cuando?
11:09Desde 1996.
11:12From 1996.
11:13From 1996.
11:14Over the last 30 years,
11:17Santi has created a living museum,
11:20celebrating a century of Ibiza's lighthouses.
11:23How many lighthouses are there on Ibiza?
11:26Tenemos diez faros,
11:28y luego balizas, boyas, hasta un total de cuarenta y cinco luces.
11:34And this is the bit that you have made very personal.
11:39I see you like antiques.
11:41Si.
11:41Todo lo que encuentro que me gusta por el mundo,
11:44cosas relacionadas con faros y otras que no.
11:46So, he collects bits and pieces all over the world.
11:49Anything that takes his fancy.
11:51Especially if they're related to lighthouses.
11:56Even the lighthouse's warning system...
12:00Does this still work?
12:02...is a remnant from the 1950s.
12:05Sigue funcionando.
12:06It still works. That's amazing.
12:08And Santi, what's this?
12:10This is for the fog signal.
12:12Oh, yeah, the fog horn.
12:14Yes, we have the horn of type.
12:15And here is the control.
12:17Ooh, can we try it?
12:19Try it, please.
12:20Over there.
12:22Okay, here goes.
12:27How far away can you hear that?
12:29I don't know exactly,
12:31but some friends from Formentera,
12:33they told me they hear.
12:35Can hear from there.
12:37Hello, Formentera!
12:43We have broadcast to Formentera.
12:46Shall we go upstairs?
12:47Let's go.
12:48It's time to climb 31 metres above sea level
12:51to see how this building truly shines.
13:01When you were a child,
13:03did you imagine that you might be a lighthouse keeper?
13:06Well, I've always lived in a fire.
13:08My father was a fireman.
13:09I grew up in a fire.
13:12And my father always said,
13:14when you're older, you have to be a fireman.
13:16And, indeed, here I am.
13:22Do you have a son or a daughter
13:25who will be the lighthouse keeper?
13:27I don't have children.
13:29And now things are different.
13:40Do you also have the feeling that you're helping people,
13:44that you're helping to save lives?
13:46I hope it will serve for something.
13:50Do you also have the feeling that you're helping people,
13:55that you're helping to save lives?
13:55I hope it will serve for something.
13:55Ibiza Old Town, my next destination,
13:58is a short drive around the harbour.
14:01But there's a much more uplifting way to make the journey.
14:05On this lovely day, I'm going to take a ferry across it.
14:09Depending on your preconceptions of Ibiza,
14:11you may not be expecting these magnificent fortifications.
14:16The ferries run every half hour to and from the Old Town.
14:22Añano.
14:23I'm travelling with Añano,
14:25who was born and raised on Ibiza
14:27and inherited the family ferry business from his grandfather.
14:32He started in 1932 with an old boat.
14:36How long have you been in the ferry business?
14:3857 years.
14:39That is a long time, isn't it?
14:41And these are your boats now?
14:42Yes, the first one, Playa Yaplana, 1962,
14:46and the one behind, Playa Talamanca, 1960.
14:49They're beautiful sort of antiques almost, aren't they?
14:52Tell me about your grandfather.
14:54My grandad, he was a political here in Ibiza.
14:57And for this reason, when Franco came,
15:00he was captured and sent to the prison.
15:04When you say he was a politician,
15:06what sort of activity was he in?
15:08I don't know in English, but he was from the Pozoi.
15:11So he was in the Socialist Party.
15:12Yes.
15:14And UGT.
15:15And that's the trade unions?
15:16Yes.
15:17So he was a trade unionist and a socialist?
15:19Yes, he was the trade director.
15:21So quite a senior position in those.
15:23Yeah.
15:23And how long did he spend in prison?
15:25Seven and a half years.
15:26That's a long time.
15:28My own father escaped to England
15:31while some of his brothers supported Franco.
15:34The ripples of the dictatorship
15:35are still felt by families across Spain.
15:42The third boat in Añano's fleet arrives to collect us.
15:46In the morning, things are quiet,
15:48so you're almost guaranteed a seat.
15:50Good morning.
15:51Buenos dias.
15:53Buenos dias.
15:54Buenos dias.
15:57Crossing the harbour will take ten glorious minutes,
16:01each one to be savoured.
16:06This is now a magnificent view, isn't it?
16:08Yes, I love it.
16:10What journeys can you do on the ferry?
16:13We have four stops.
16:14We go to Marina Ibiza,
16:16Talamanca,
16:16we are the beach,
16:18we find the beach,
16:18as well to the centre.
16:23If you have had the ferry,
16:25you personally, for 57 years,
16:27you must have seen a lot of changes in the island.
16:29I did, I did.
16:31A lot of changes.
16:32We had before, like, more family.
16:35Mm-hm.
16:36They were coming family with the kids
16:38to enjoy those beautiful beaches we have.
16:40And after, we started with the music,
16:43with the disco,
16:43and now we don't know if it's a more peaceful island
16:47or more noisy island.
16:48It depends.
16:50But the thing is that in the island,
16:52you can find really what you're looking for.
16:56So it is still possible to find a quiet beach,
16:58a quiet spot?
17:00Yes, it is.
17:01As you approach the harbour,
17:03your eyes are drawn first
17:05to the enormous multi-million dollar super yachts.
17:09But then they settle on the old town,
17:11or Dalt Villa,
17:13surrounded by striking walled fortifications.
17:16A memorable journey.
17:18And so interesting.
17:19See you.
17:20Hasta luego.
17:23My hotel tonight is somewhere in the labyrinthine alleys.
17:27I hope to find it with the help of one of the hotel managers,
17:31Anthony, and concierge Sara.
17:35Hola, Sara.
17:36Hola, Michael.
17:37Bienvenido.
17:38Hello, Anthony.
17:39Que tal?
17:39In a buggy designed to squeeze through the ancient streets.
17:43OK, we go.
17:45So the journey starts.
17:49You're going to enter a side of Ibiza that not many people have seen.
17:52Oh, what a great start.
17:54We're going through one of the gates.
18:00That's beautiful.
18:01What enormously thick walls we've passed through there, haven't we?
18:04During summer months,
18:06most vehicles are banned within the walls of the old town,
18:09unless you're a resident.
18:12So this is very exciting.
18:13We have to twist and turn.
18:15Oh, what a view of the walls.
18:16Yeah.
18:17So you need a skillful driver to drive around the old town.
18:20I have every faith in Anthony.
18:24Marvellous shady narrow streets.
18:26But you always wonder how people get their furniture in.
18:34I thought the town would be much more spoiled by neon signs
18:38and modern buildings.
18:39But no, it's really very well preserved.
18:41You can see all the cultures overlapping.
18:44OK, so this last part is not for the faint of heart.
18:47We're really getting into the old town,
18:50which is narrow narrow streets.
18:51I shall breathe in.
18:57Oh, this is marvelous.
19:08We're getting closer.
19:10Sara, you're so lucky.
19:11This is so beautiful.
19:12I am.
19:13I know.
19:13And I'm very aware of that every day.
19:17And at a pinch,
19:18we've made it to our final destination.
19:21OK.
19:23This is us?
19:25This is us.
19:26What a fantastic place to be us.
19:29Previous guests include Pink Floyd,
19:31Mariah Carey and Madonna.
19:34After you.
19:34I promise there'll be no rock star behaviour tonight.
19:38It's gorgeous.
19:39Very special.
19:41So this is one of three buildings that compose our hotel.
19:45This is from the 14th century.
19:48I love it.
19:49The interior reflects 600 years of changing tastes.
19:54While sitting underneath is the remains of a much earlier building.
19:59And this side here, we've got a cistern.
20:02Not a well.
20:04Not a well.
20:06Dating back over 2,500 years, it was built by the Phoenicians.
20:11An ancient people, originally from what is now Lebanon, who arrived on Ibiza around 654 BC.
20:19The cistern was used to collect rare rainwater.
20:22We're on a big rock here.
20:24And so the rainfall would tumble into these cisterns.
20:28Exactly.
20:29Very, very nice.
20:30And you've got a nice cage on it now in case any guests behave badly.
20:34That's where we hide them all the time.
20:36Well, this has been the most delightful check-in.
20:38Thank you very much.
20:39It's a pleasure to have you.
20:39I'll head to my room.
20:41Goodbye.
20:41Thank you, Sarah. Bye-bye.
20:44I don't know whether Mariah or Madonna stayed in this suite, but this diva is very happy with his accommodation.
20:52This lovely high town gives such glorious views.
20:57And everywhere you look, there are different generations of city wall.
21:02I really never felt so well defended, so secure.
21:06You're actually secure enough to take an open-air bath.
21:13Ha-ha!
21:17Next.
21:18This is astonishing.
21:19I learned sordid secrets.
21:21The governor had stolen his wife, and he was very aggrieved.
21:24And ancient traditions.
21:26How many fingers?
21:27Five.
21:28That's surprising.
21:38I'm exploring the secret sides of the well-known Balearic island Ibiza, which sits 90 miles off the Spanish mainland.
21:48Just 25 miles long, this small island packs a big punch.
21:54In my lifetime, it has dramatically developed into one of the world's true party capitals.
22:01But strangely, that all began when Spain was a dictatorship.
22:06I was a teenager during the last days of the repressive Franco regime in Spain.
22:12And it was a period of mixed messages and pushing against boundaries.
22:17The government was authoritarian, and Spain was deeply Catholic.
22:22But the country needed foreign friends.
22:25And then from the 1960s, the Spanish economy more and more relied upon tourists.
22:30But they wanted first bikinis, and then they wanted topless bathing.
22:34And so the solution to this was that the hotspots were treated almost as though they weren't Spanish territory, and
22:41a blind eye was turned.
22:44And so Ricardo Urgel, a Catalan from a famously creative family, established a nightclub first in Sitges, and then saw
22:52the opportunity on famously bohemian Ibiza.
22:55And he opened Pacha in 1973, a place where the rich could moor their super yachts, and the modern destiny
23:05of Ibiza was sealed.
23:08Around 2,500 years earlier, the Phoenicians settled on the island.
23:14Their legacy still influences the people who live here, including Maria Jose, whose studio is on the outskirts of Ibiza
23:22town.
23:23Hello, Maria Jose.
23:25Hello, good morning.
23:26How are you?
23:28How are you?
23:28It's amazing.
23:29I have a great pleasure.
23:31Well, the workshop is very interesting.
23:32Very interesting work.
23:33Yes.
23:34Maria Jose's ceramics are inspired by Phoenician pottery found on the island.
23:43My father was a ceramist.
23:45I learned the work from him.
23:47And I dedicated to making pieces of Ibiza tradition, a bit of cultural tradition.
23:53This is a punic.
23:54The punic-fenicians worked a lot with animals.
23:58And this was a punic for the children, babies.
24:03This would be representing a pig.
24:05And then there were others representing a lion.
24:10The punic-fenicians were prolific potters.
24:14They bequeathed Tannit, goddess of the moon and fertility, who protected the island.
24:19And Bess, a music god whose name may be the origin of the word Ibiza.
24:26These, though, have caught my eye.
24:29Where were they found?
24:30They found it in Illa Plana, the bottom part of the waterfall, the final part of Ibiza.
24:36And they found it in a pool.
24:38They represent a man and a woman because they used them to make fertility rituals.
24:44Obviously, the sex of the two figures is very, very obvious.
24:48Would you like to show me how you make these, please?
24:51Yes, you can make like this if you want.
24:55Well, I can try.
24:58Ven conmigo.
24:59Gracias.
25:00Although this isn't my first rodeo, I've never before recreated a fertility symbol.
25:06These are the male and female figures.
25:09Maria Jose crafts her ceramics using moulds in a similar way to the Phoenicians.
25:16First of all, we have two clothes with this.
25:21Put these rubber bands around.
25:23Yes.
25:23Now it is closed.
25:25This technique involves creating a liquid clay to fill the mould.
25:31Such a lot of dust.
25:34How do you judge the consistency?
25:37At the end, it has to be that it is neither very clear nor very thick.
25:40I think that really just means she uses her judgement.
25:44We build up layers by first filling the mould.
25:48Then, when Maria Jose says a layer is set, we empty the excess liquid and repeat the process.
25:55Eventually, she decides the clay is thick enough.
26:03She says I'm getting the hang of it.
26:07Maria Jose was taught these ancient techniques by her father.
26:12Tell me about your father.
26:13Was your father also interested in the Phoenician discoveries in Ibiza?
26:17Yes.
26:18Yes.
26:18And it has always given me the value of our roots.
26:22Mmm.
26:23It's part of Ibiza.
26:26For example, Ibiza comes from the Isla del Dios Ves and there are many people who don't know the origin
26:31of the name.
26:32So it's important.
26:35With the clay set, I gingerly remove the fig greens.
26:41We're going to lift the woman out.
26:47You have to open the eyes.
26:49And perfect it.
26:49Sin miedo.
26:50Sin miedo.
26:54Bien.
26:56How many fingers?
26:57Five.
26:59Five? That's surprising.
27:01Well, if you want, you can put the ones you want.
27:04I think I'll just put four. There we go.
27:06Yes.
27:07This will be known as Michael Porto's four-fingered fertility symbol.
27:14Right. This is a first for me.
27:17And, of course, there are the most important parts of any fertility symbol.
27:22Mm-hmm.
27:31Perfect.
27:34I have to put the breasts on now.
27:36Yes.
27:37How will I put the breasts on?
27:38Haz dos bolitas.
27:41These have ended up very close together.
27:43You can move, if you want.
27:45No, I like this one.
27:47Okay. Perfect.
27:48There we are.
27:49So our lady is looking very fertile and would encourage anyone to go out and try their fruitfulness.
28:02The Phoenicians are thought to have been the first to settle what is now Ibiza Old Town.
28:09And today, as you look out on stunning views and across to the island of Formentera, you can see why
28:16they stayed.
28:17These huge walls, 25 meters high, came much later, at a moment in time when these seas were dominated by
28:26pirates.
28:29Nowadays, pirates have a certain romantic appeal, but these walls were actually built to defend a terrified population against marauders.
28:38They are splendidly preserved and they are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
28:46For lovers of the past, these are extremely exciting.
28:52That includes Martin, a Briton who settled here.
28:56Hello, Martin. What an amazing view.
28:59It certainly is.
29:00It's wonderful.
29:02There's little Martin doesn't know about the island's history.
29:06The Arabs arrived about sometime after 902 A.D.
29:09And it's thought by some historians that there were no people living on the island.
29:14Others think there may have been a skeletal population, but really very small indeed.
29:18The idea of the island being depopulated is now extraordinary to us.
29:22But was water at the heart of that? Water was an issue.
29:24Yes, definitely.
29:25And it has been right through its history.
29:28Every culture that has settled here has had to have some kind of water technology to get through, you know,
29:33the day and especially the summer.
29:35Under the Islamic Empire, island life was revolutionised by the expansion and improvement of irrigation systems,
29:43which made agriculture easier and the island more inhabitable.
29:50After 333 years of Muslim rule, with the Christian Reconquista spreading along the Iberian Peninsula,
29:57an army was sent to take back Ibiza.
30:01Victory relied on breaching the city walls.
30:04A lovely chapel.
30:06This is quite a little tale attached to it because, according to legend, this is where the Christians entered the
30:11city on the 8th of August, 1235,
30:15thanks to the secret entrance and the betrayal of the Arabic governor by his brother.
30:20Now, the reason he betrayed the Arabic forces was because the governor had stolen his wife and he was very
30:26aggrieved, so he went to the Christian camp and told them about the secret entrance.
30:31We don't know if it's true. The archaeologists haven't quite decided.
30:34What is not in doubt is that in 1235, the Catholics arrive and they throw out the Islamic forces that
30:40have been here for three centuries.
30:41Exactly right.
30:42Over the next few hundred years, the Spanish bolstered their defences.
30:47It's absolutely a treasure trove of different civilisations.
30:50Yes, it is.
30:51Including secret passages, like this one.
30:54Into the dark.
30:56That leads to a hidden emergency exit.
30:59But woe betide any enemy who tried to sneak in through the back door.
31:03So this is an interesting feature in the defence of the city.
31:06We have a huge shaft for raining down hell on whoever might have managed to penetrate the back entrance.
31:14It's a very elegantly designed defence.
31:16And the funny thing is that when you're charging up to get to the top of that villa, you don't
31:20even notice it.
31:21I have a feeling if you're a Berber charging up, you would know all about it.
31:25Yes, I'm sure you would.
31:28The city walls seen today, including these spectacular gates, were constructed at the height of Spain's Golden Age.
31:37Heavens, Martin, this is astonishing.
31:39Well, it's a showstopper.
31:41Philip II, the monarch of half of Europe at the time, wanted something special for his main entrance.
31:46With all these superb defences, was the town of Ibiza ever taken? Was it ever stormed?
31:53No, that's the beauty of it.
31:55No army as such attempted to take it after it was built.
32:01Despite walls that have successfully deterred military invasions,
32:05Ibiza attracts new residents from across the world.
32:09Over a quarter of its current population are foreign nationals.
32:17What's your story? How long have you been on Ibiza?
32:19I was kidnapped by one of those pirates in London, funnily enough.
32:24Brought here in 1993 to live, and I couldn't escape.
32:29You followed a partner?
32:31Yes, yes, an Ibithenko hairdresser, and here I am.
32:34What's it been like for you to live the real Ibiza life?
32:37There are many Ibizas, you never stop discovering new treasures.
32:41Every time you get in your car or you go for a walk, it's an endless, endless island.
32:49As night falls, I take Martin's advice and go in search of my next Ibizan adventure.
32:58Word has reached me that Ibiza has disc jockeys in discotheques,
33:03although apparently now they're known as clubs.
33:06So now that sun has set on the island, it's time for me to take a walk on the wild
33:12side.
33:20Next, I discover a hotspot from the island's 1960s counterculture.
33:26It must have been quite intoxicating what they found here.
33:29And learn of a lifelong love.
33:31Ibiza is my North Star.
33:33There's nowhere else on the planet that I would rather live.
33:44It's our final day on Ibiza, and there's still so much to show you.
33:50So I'm taking you away from the crowds in the south of the island
33:54to head inland onto the Hippie Trail.
34:0014 miles to the northeast of Ibiza town is the unassuming village of San Carlos.
34:06You wouldn't know it today, but in the 1960s,
34:10this place became the centre of Ibiza's counterculture,
34:13as dropouts and draught dodgers were drawn here.
34:17And this village bar was the centre of it all.
34:23Hello.
34:24To find out why, I'm meeting Maya,
34:27a British-born writer who spent much of her life on the island.
34:33So, Anita, it's quite an institution, I gather.
34:35Absolutely. It's been at the heart of the society of the north of Ibiza for years.
34:40But realistically, I think its zenith period was the 60s and 70s,
34:44when it was the hub of the whole hippie culture of Ibiza.
34:47So it was largely spearheaded by an influx of young Americans
34:51who were dodging a draught.
34:54And they'd heard these stories about this place
34:57sort of almost out of touch with reality.
35:00It's estimated that 60,000 to 100,000 young Americans left the United States,
35:07many to sit out the Vietnam War on Ibiza.
35:10And other groups were also attracted.
35:13They were joined by young countercultural refugees from all over Europe,
35:17my father being one of them.
35:19Oh, really? Yeah.
35:20Tell me about your dad.
35:21He and a friend were travelling around Europe
35:25and they kept hearing sort of these whispers on the wind
35:27of this sort of sunshine island.
35:29And they came here and what they found was a place where
35:33they were surrounded by like-minded young people from all over the world.
35:38And I think it must have been quite intoxicating what they found here.
35:43Captivated by the island's remote beauty and blue seas,
35:48Northern Ibiza was the perfect place for their escape.
35:52They would hang out at Bar Anita.
35:5660 years later, it's still run by the same family
35:59and Vicente is the current boss.
36:02What are you offering us here, Vicente?
36:04Well, we got a typical drink from here, from Ibiza.
36:07It is a homemade one and it's made by digestive herbs.
36:12Yerebas is an Ibiza digestif,
36:15made from soaking local herbs in alcohol.
36:19And each bar creates its own.
36:22Is this your recipe?
36:24It's my grandmother's recipe.
36:26Thank you Vicente.
36:28Ooh!
36:29That's a lovely sweet smell, isn't it?
36:31Look at this, packed with life.
36:34And what have you got there?
36:35This is a typical cake from here, from Ibiza.
36:38That's always been done in the countryside as well.
36:41And it's done by fresh shears, just that's two or three days old.
36:44You squeeze it, you mix it with flour and some eggs.
36:47And then it's got this herb that's called yerba buena.
36:50They call it the mojito here.
36:52Some people call it the mojito cake as well,
36:54because it tastes like mojito.
36:55But it's one of the basics and most typical cakes
37:00that we make here in Ibiza.
37:01What's it called in Ibiza?
37:02Flau.
37:03Flau.
37:04Flau.
37:04Flau, yeah.
37:04May I ask you something?
37:05Try it.
37:07Who is or was Anita?
37:09Anita still is the lady that she's my great-grand-aunt.
37:13She's 99 now.
37:14She'll be 100 on March, how she gets there.
37:18And she used to be the lady who used to run this place.
37:22Along with Anita's wonderful ambience and perfect aperitif,
37:27there was another reason that the bar was such a hit.
37:30Everyone's post was delivered here to their personal letterbox.
37:35Do you have a telephone box?
37:36It used to be the only one in the village.
37:38No.
37:39Yeah, yeah.
37:40Before there was any telephones anywhere, we had this telephone box.
37:42People would come here.
37:43So it used to be a long queue here, just waiting for the phone number.
37:48Gente, encantado.
37:49It's a pleasure.
37:49I hope you enjoy it.
37:51Thank you very much indeed.
37:52And all the best.
37:52Yes, pleasure.
37:54For the people who lived here in the 1960s, bar Anita was their link to the outside world.
38:01People like my father, who lived in these sort of far-flung thinkers, in the middle of nowhere,
38:07had no transport, no electricity, no running water.
38:10And so when they wanted to meet each other and know what was going on within the community,
38:15they would have to just come to a place like here, a sort of community hub, as it were,
38:20and that's where you'd exchange news, pick up your post, make your phone calls, see your friends.
38:25I mean, this is an entirely Ibiza story, isn't it?
38:27Absolutely.
38:28Absolutely.
38:29I'm not sure that there's anywhere that I know or have come across in all my years
38:34where you have such an extraordinary amount of history,
38:38but changing history going on in such a short period of time.
38:41It's this sense of people coming here to find themselves or to find something outside the culture that they were
38:49born into.
38:50And is this true of you?
38:52Absolutely.
38:54Since the 1960s, parts of Ibiza have changed beyond anyone's imagination.
39:01Then there were fewer than 40,000 people living here.
39:05Today it's four times that, with three million tourists arriving every year.
39:11Despite that, it's still possible to find places that feel untouched.
39:17And Maya wants to show me her favourite.
39:22We are coming over the northern coastal road from Benerast to the Puerto de San Miguel.
39:27This is where we have to trust our driver,
39:29as we're on quite a narrow road and we've got quite sheer drops down.
39:33We do.
39:34But we're also getting extraordinary views.
39:38I imagine many people who come to Ibiza don't glimpse this at all.
39:43No.
39:45I think a lot of people historically would come to Ibiza and stay in the resort
39:49or wherever it is that they've chosen to stay.
39:52But I think you'll find that more and more tourism here now
39:55is based around discovering the sort of, what you might call,
40:00lesser known parts of the island.
40:09What a beautiful spot.
40:11Certainly is, isn't it?
40:12Lovely sunset.
40:14Absolutely.
40:14It's what Ibiza's known for.
40:20If you had to leave the island, do you think you'd be drawn back to it?
40:25Ibiza is my north star.
40:27It's the place that centres me, the place that grounds me.
40:30It's the place I've felt more at home than anywhere I've ever lived,
40:33including where I was born back in the Yorkshire Dales.
40:35For me, it's an absolute magnetism,
40:38and there's nowhere else on the planet that I would rather live.
40:52Phoenicians, Romans, Vandals, North African Muslims,
40:58Catalan Christians have all settled in Ibiza.
41:00And today the island is invaded daily by cruise ships and holiday flights.
41:07But the local population has not buckled under.
41:11Local traditions are celebrated.
41:14Historic buildings are beautifully restored.
41:18The cuisine is distinctive,
41:20and local pride shines through the smiles of the people.
41:24To judge by the numbers who return repeatedly,
41:28it is the visitor to Ibiza who is conquered.
41:38With our perambulation through Spain at its end,
41:41I hope that you feel conquered too.
41:44Oh, Maria, that is spectacular!
41:47A journey that's taken us to some of its most vibrant cities.
41:51The setting is just perfection.
41:54Regions.
41:55Absolutely spectacular.
41:57And islands.
41:58For a commanding view over the Bay of Palma.
42:01Where local customs, cuisine and culture are celebrated and flourish.
42:07Wow, that's a big vermous.
42:10Cheers!
42:11Together we've swapped the tourist trail.
42:13Mpujo!
42:14That I'm inside the barrel!
42:16For experiences new and exhilarating.
42:20Oh, amazing!
42:23In familiar places that you thought you knew,
42:26what an amazing building.
42:28We've unearthed the surprising.
42:30This was a river.
42:32And they moved it.
42:33And the unexpected.
42:34One of the largest buildings I have ever seen.
42:38I set out to show you many new faces to this wonderful country.
42:43Good luck, guys!
42:45All just waiting to be discovered.
42:49It sure is a mean looking town.
42:56They look big and cuddly, but did you know they're notoriously aggressive?
43:01Getting close so you don't have to.
43:03Hippo Watch with Steve Baxchel is brand new tomorrow at 8.
43:06Coming up, can Alex Polizzi help musician Tony,
43:09whose struggling B&B is not just a business, it's a home too.
43:13The Hotel Inspector is new next.
43:15D
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