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Chef Marvin Matherne has made over a million shrimp po-boys at Guy’s Po-Boys in New Orleans, and today he joins Bon Appétit to show you how to make this iconic sandwich. From Gulf shrimp and corn flour batter to one-day French bread and the traditional “dress” of lettuce, tomato, pickle, and Blue Plate mayo, this is how an authentic New Orleans po-boy sandwich is really made.
Transcript
00:02I'm Marvin Mathurne. I'm here at Guy's Po' Boys, New Orleans, Louisiana. I'm gonna
00:07make the perfect shrimp po' boy. Listen up. I've been doing this for 34 years. I've
00:18made over a million po' boys in this one spot, on this one corner, at this one
00:22counter, and I make every sandwich. A po' boy, it's not a sub, it's not a hoagie,
00:28is a sandwich. Everybody in the city is making shrimp po' boys. If I want them to
00:32come to me, I got to make sure this sandwich is going to be perfect.
00:40There's a lot of different feelings out there for po' boys. I do shrimp. This is a
00:46white shrimp, even though it looks gray. This is a brown shrimp, even though it
00:51looks pink. This is more of a bolder flavor. This is my favorite. Our shrimp come in
00:56frozen like everybody else's shrimp, but we know what shrimp to buy. The Gulf shrimp.
01:02These shrimps swim their entire life. If something is sedimentary in the pond, they
01:08don't have the flavor these shrimp have. Shrimp are sold by size. This is a 40-50.
01:14So 40 or 50 of these makes a pound. It's perfect size for your mouse. Now all I'm gonna do
01:22is rinse off.
01:23I'm checking for shells, tails, pieces of head. Anything that's not shrimp,
01:29this is the spot to find it right now. We're good to go.
01:37Eggs are so important to the batter. These eggs are for our egg wash. I'm not gonna add anything to
01:45them.
01:45The eggs are to keep the breading on the shrimp. I want them to be homogenous
01:51at this point. When I put them over the shrimp, I'm gonna make it look like a
01:56pudding. That's what I'm looking for. All right, now I'm gonna mix the flour, yellow
02:00corn flour. Preferably this Indian girl. If I don't have this Indian girl, I am upset.
02:07It's the finest. It's so silky smooth. This is our blend. Salt pepper and a little secret.
02:15Put any other little spice you want to taste in there. People think, oh, it's southern cooking.
02:20You want to kill it with spice. No, you don't really want to kill it with spice. Spice is killing
02:25me.
02:26All right, so now that's all mixed. Remember I was telling you we're gonna make a pudding out of it?
02:30Look at this. See how the egg is all filled in? Looks like a lot of egg. It is a
02:38lot of egg.
02:39And it looks like it's gonna make the breading stick a little too much.
02:44But Mara's gonna take care of that. You'll see. This is by hand. You got to do this by hand.
02:50It looks like I'm just mixing them up, but I'm not. I'm rolling them. And the reason being why I'm
02:56working it so much is I call it a yellow belly. You see the curve of the shrimp, the belly?
03:02When they
03:03pack it full of flour and they don't shake it enough, it fries into a ball and then all the
03:11outside is going to be cooked. And when you open it up, the belly is going to still be yellow
03:16raw.
03:17That's not acceptable. As I'm putting them in here, it looks like I'm just gently tossing them,
03:22but no, I'm kind of squeezing them. It's got a little grip to it. And then I fluff them out.
03:28You don't want to overfill a basket. Another bad move. Fill this thing up to here. The ones in the
03:34middle are never going to get cooked. You see how I packed them with batter and the batter came off?
03:42That's what I'm looking for. Now I'm gonna drop these in. The fry is set at 350 and here we
03:47go.
03:48I'm gonna drop them. I'm gonna let them fry for 30, 40 seconds. I don't really have any time. I'm
03:55just
03:56listening. See all the moisture is cooking out right now. I'm waiting for them to firm up just enough
04:02to where when I shake them in the fryer, I'm not washing the batter off of them. They all fry
04:07individually and we don't get those clumps. That's not good because the middle is not going to be cooked.
04:13I'm going to give it a second shaking for everyone separating. All right. Got our shrimp fried. Let's talk about
04:20the bread.
04:25If you can make it better yourself, make it yourself. I can't make this bread better. This is Leidenheimer.
04:32They delivered to me. These people are a little startup company. Look, since 1896. No, they've been doing this a
04:40long time.
04:40They got it scientifically figured out. It's perfect. This truly is a specific piece of bread.
04:47This piece of bread is only going to last one day. This is a four day old piece of bread.
04:56Dust. Done. Obviously, this is not going to make a po' boy. This is
05:06three hours old. Look how soft and sweet, man. I get all excited. These ovens are infused with
05:12humidity. The humidity that makes it have this crunch on the outside while obtaining the soft
05:19middle. I cut every piece of bread to order. Look at that. After a million times, that's pretty
05:26freaking exact, huh? I cut them to order for one reason. And that's because if you cut this piece
05:32of bread in the morning time and you come back in about four hours or five hours, it's going to
05:39start
05:39curling like this. Now your tomato is going to fall over the side. I can't have that. Unacceptable.
05:50Tomatoes. We'll start with the tomatoes. If you don't have a tomato plucker, plucker with a P.
05:55You just slide it in. Roll your tomato. Pulls out the core. If you have to use a paring knife.
06:03I cut my paring knife down with my thumb to just the depth that I want to get into
06:08the tomato. Slide it in. Turn my tomato. Pull it out. I can't stand when somebody goes all the way
06:16into the tomato, cuts a big old hole in it, then every tomato slice has a hole in it. Drives
06:22me nuts.
06:23This is the slicer that I've had for 30 years. We go round for round. It's getting a little old,
06:31it's getting a little stubborn, kind of like me. I'm going to open it up. About a quarter of an
06:38inch.
06:39I'm going to knock these out real quick for you. No seasoning, no pickling, no nothing. This is it.
06:45The tomato is going to taste like a tomato. Now the lettuce. Boom! You give it the pop and the
06:52core comes right out.
06:52Trim off the little extra stuff. You're in the grocery store and you're looking at lettuce.
06:57You want the heaviest one. The place I buy my lettuce, I pick every case up that's on the top
07:02because the heavy is where you at. I go with the shredded lettuce because when you put it in your
07:08mouth
07:08it touches more taste buds so you get more flavor. So I'm going to shred this up real deep. That's
07:15like
07:15fresh powder to a skeer right there. Kind of crazy when lettuce gets you excited like that but you
07:21know what? I love it when it's right. Let's put this all into action and let's get us a pole
07:28boy made
07:29and I'll tell you what. I can't wait to bite in it myself.
07:39Showtime baby. Let's do this. The mayo is first. Blue plate mayo. That's what we grew up on.
07:45Then I'm going to go with the lettuce. Then we're going to put our tomatoes. Three tomatoes every
07:51time. This way you're going to get a bite of tomato, a bite of lettuce, and every bite. Each tomato
07:59gets a pickle. One eighth inch slice. This is where you want to go. But that's your traditional dress.
08:06Then we're going to guise it up a little bit and I'm going to put a little hot sauce. If
08:10you're real
08:10special I'll write your name for you. And now our shrimp. You might think I'm putting this much shrimp on
08:20here just for the camera. No. So now the fold. This could be a catastrophe. You got to lift
08:27and separate a little bit. You give room for these shrimp to fall in there. So when you roll it
08:32over
08:33there you have it. Look at that. Isn't that beautiful? I'm not very delicate with this sandwich.
08:39If I just folded it over like this and cut it and wrapped it. When you get it to the
08:44table and you open
08:45it up it's going to fall out all over the place. So actually what I do is I press it
08:49down
08:50then I make my cut. Then the wrap.
08:56I'm not just like folding it over. I'm squeezing this right here. This is tight.
09:03One piece of tape. There we go. This one's for me.
09:10That's incredible. I have to tell you proud of myself every time I do it. Every one tastes like the
09:15very
09:16first time I did this. I love it. You wondering who this one's for? This is yours. Come to Guy's
09:23Full Boy. It's 5259 Magazine Street. Pick up the sandwich. It's ready.
09:27See ya ho, hey ready, Josh.
09:28Bye.
09:29Bye.
09:30Bye.
09:31Bye.
09:31Bye.
09:31noisy everybody.
09:32Bye.
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