CV Axle complete replacement for 2023 Nissan Ariya Engage – easy step by step
0:00 Introduction to CV axle replacement for 2023 Nissan Ariya
0:08 Tools needed
0:23 Safety
0:39 Shock warning
1:00 Supplies
1:06 Part inspection
2:37 Lifting the vehicle
4:18 Remove the wheel
4:40 Old CV axle familiarization
5:14 Stabilize the wheel hub
5:35 Wheel Hub prep
6:06 Remove bottom cover panel
6:43 Note transmission side gap
6:56 Control arm link removal
8:45 Wheel hub side cv axle removal
9:18 Transmission side cv axle removal prep
9:48 Transmission side cv axle removal pry out
10:18 Inspect transmission seal
10:38 Compare removed part
10:57 Inspect wheel hub side
11:13 Install new CV axle on transmission side
11:47 Install new CV axle on wheel hub side
12:42 Install other components
13:03 Lower the vehicle and test
Here I go through the steps, techniques, tools, and materials needed to replace the front left driver side CV Axle assembly for the 2023 Nissan Ariya Engage electric vehicle. #Cvaxle #cvjoint #nissan #ariya #cvaxlereplacement #cvaxlereplaced
Hector Vladimir 2026©
HVB Tutorials playlist
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyWqApEqGtc6om8Ov-GeJwgxujcXH6AjJ
Sparky AE channel
https://youtube.com/@sparkyae1?si=G0vRnDZ8pskD0i_d
Tools needed: Pry Bar10mm Socket, 18mm Socket, 21mm Socket, 32mm Socket
Pickle Fork • Side Cutters • Torque Wrench
Supplies needed: Brake Grease • Safety Glasses • Chisel • Drain Pan • Floor Jack • Funnel • Hammer • Pole Jack • Rubber Mallet • Wheel Chocks ⚠ DISCLAIMER: While Hector Vladimir, the author, strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, he makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. Hector Vladimir is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
0:00 Introduction to CV axle replacement for 2023 Nissan Ariya
0:08 Tools needed
0:23 Safety
0:39 Shock warning
1:00 Supplies
1:06 Part inspection
2:37 Lifting the vehicle
4:18 Remove the wheel
4:40 Old CV axle familiarization
5:14 Stabilize the wheel hub
5:35 Wheel Hub prep
6:06 Remove bottom cover panel
6:43 Note transmission side gap
6:56 Control arm link removal
8:45 Wheel hub side cv axle removal
9:18 Transmission side cv axle removal prep
9:48 Transmission side cv axle removal pry out
10:18 Inspect transmission seal
10:38 Compare removed part
10:57 Inspect wheel hub side
11:13 Install new CV axle on transmission side
11:47 Install new CV axle on wheel hub side
12:42 Install other components
13:03 Lower the vehicle and test
Here I go through the steps, techniques, tools, and materials needed to replace the front left driver side CV Axle assembly for the 2023 Nissan Ariya Engage electric vehicle. #Cvaxle #cvjoint #nissan #ariya #cvaxlereplacement #cvaxlereplaced
Hector Vladimir 2026©
HVB Tutorials playlist
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLyWqApEqGtc6om8Ov-GeJwgxujcXH6AjJ
Sparky AE channel
https://youtube.com/@sparkyae1?si=G0vRnDZ8pskD0i_d
Tools needed: Pry Bar10mm Socket, 18mm Socket, 21mm Socket, 32mm Socket
Pickle Fork • Side Cutters • Torque Wrench
Supplies needed: Brake Grease • Safety Glasses • Chisel • Drain Pan • Floor Jack • Funnel • Hammer • Pole Jack • Rubber Mallet • Wheel Chocks ⚠ DISCLAIMER: While Hector Vladimir, the author, strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, he makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. Hector Vladimir is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.
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TechTranscript
00:00This is the complete CV axle replacement for the left side driver side for the 2023 Nissan
00:06Aria Engage, the electric vehicle. Tools needed are a heavy rubber mallet, socket set including
00:12the 10, 13, 18, 21, and 32 millimeters or equivalent, a 600 foot pound torque impact driver gun,
00:19metric ratchet and wrench set, and a flathead screwdriver. Safety equipment needed, safety
00:25glasses, cut resistant work gloves, safety toe shoes or boots, long sleeve heavy shirt and pants,
00:33large rubber mat, insulated rubber gloves worn with leather outer gloves, and a face shield.
00:39Warning, working on electric vehicles exposes you to high voltage energy and electric shock hazards.
00:46Disable the high voltage system of your vehicle. See vehicle maintenance manual. Wear insulated gloves
00:54and use insulated mat when reaching into areas where voltage may exist. Needed supplies will be
01:01transmission fluid for this specific vehicle and a lithium based grease. This is the CV axle assembly
01:09that you should be working with, again the front driver side, but it should be very similar for the
01:14other side, the right passenger side. Make sure your part number matches the old part or the part that
01:21you will be working with or replacing. Inspect the part that you will be putting in for any damage, any nicks,
01:28cuts, any kind of damage at all, especially the threads on the other side and the large 32 millimeter
01:35nuts. Make sure those are in good condition and they will go on in the threads. Again, make sure the part
01:42number matches that side, specific side, and also make sure it is for the front side. In this case, the left front
01:50side driver side. Make sure these teeth are not damaged in any way on the shaft as well as the threads.
01:57Again, if there is minor damage on those, you may be able to repair it with a file. Make sure there is no
02:04damage on the housings. Make sure the axle joints are flexible. They should be able to rotate freely, move
02:12around freely. There should not be any kind of seizing or freezing. Make sure the teeth on this
02:20shaft are not damaged at all. If there is minor damage, you may be able to use it by repairing it
02:25with a small, tiny file. Also, there is a split ring here. The ring should be kind of loose, but not
02:33excessively so. It should not be bent or damaged or nicked in any way. Carefully and safely lift the vehicle
02:40using the correct jack. Make sure the jack is rated for the weight of the vehicle. The vehicle weight
02:46should be known and the jack rated should exceed that weight. In this case, I am using a 12 ton jack.
02:53Make sure you use the correct lift point. In this case, it is in the center front of the vehicle.
02:59Make sure the vehicle is balanced and is on a flat and even surface such as a concrete pad and not on a
03:06slope of any kind. Make sure you also chuck the vehicle rear tires in this case so it does not move
03:13and you do also use your parking or emergency brake. Make sure you use jack stands. At least two
03:20correctly rated jack stands. Make sure you use at least two of them. The points to place your jack
03:26stands is going to be around this area and you can tell by it having two notches. Put the jack stands
03:33in between the two notches on the steel itself on the metal and rest the vehicle on the jack stands.
03:40Don't leave the vehicle and just lift it with the jack. Rest the vehicle on the jack stands.
03:47Same thing on the other side. There is a lift point right here in between two metal notches.
03:52Make sure you rest the vehicle on these two points which are also lift points but you can rest the
03:58vehicle on the jack stands right there. Be extremely careful. Make sure the vehicle is balanced
04:02and lift it correctly and do use at least three support points. In this case I left two jack stands
04:10on each side and I did leave the jack itself with slight pressure on it in the middle center lift point.
04:18Now you can go ahead and carefully remove the wheel. You're going to use a 21 millimeter or 11 16 inch
04:25impact socket for the wheel lug nuts. This is the wheel hub exposed already with the wheel off.
04:31Go ahead and install one of the lug nuts to hold the wheel hub assembly together while you do the work.
04:40This is the shaft of the old CV axle shaft and this is the CV transmission side or the inner link
04:48of your CV axle assembly. This right here is a view from the bottom of the CV wheel hub side or the outer link.
04:57Of course this is the old part still installed. This is a 32 millimeter wheel hub nut to be completely
05:03removed later. You must have a impact 32 millimeter deep socket and a 600 foot pound plus torque impact
05:12driver available. This is optional but you may stabilize and lift the suspension slightly. Use caution as it
05:19may rotate and fall out of place especially if you have just a regular jack as I'm using here. You may
05:25use a lift jack which has two fingers on each side to stabilize that round surface and won't let it
05:33shift forward or backward. Go ahead and start loosening up this wheel hub nuts. For that you have to open up
05:40the punch with a steel punch as such if you have one. This is the punch to be opened. As you see that
05:48is placed there in that notch so you can hold the nut in place and it won't loosen up. You open it as much
05:53as you can. Don't damage the shaft a whole lot especially if you suspect the whole part may be okay.
06:00Open it up just enough so the nut could give and begin to come out when it starts rotating. Slightly loosen
06:08the nut but do not remove it completely. You're not yet ready to remove the part so just loosen it up.
06:14That will prevent the wheel from rotating later on when you have this jack removed. Now you can
06:20remove the bottom cover. To access the transmission side CV link you have to remove two 13 millimeter
06:26bolts, four 10 millimeter bolts and several plastic push-on fasteners. This is a bottom cover panel. It's
06:35made of I believe fabric. This is the location of the bolts. Approximate locations. These are the metal
06:41bolts. Make sure you pay attention to this gap between the CV axle link on the transmission side. This is
06:48the old part still installed. This gap here needs to be noted. It is about a quarter inch or 6.35 millimeter.
06:56This is the wheel hub side. There is a 18 millimeter nut that you will have to remove with a bolt 18 millimeters as
07:03well. Remove that. That is to begin to loosen up to remove this control arm from the bottom. This is
07:10the control arm you will be removing. 18 millimeter nut removed. The wheel hub assembly control arm port.
07:17This is what I call that. It may be called another name but this is what I'll call it here. This holds a pin
07:23that holds that control arm in place. To remove the pin from the hub you have to pry it with a pry bar or large
07:30screwdriver. Large flat head screwdriver. So open it up so you can loosen up the pressure so the pin
07:35could be released. Once you do that start pushing down with a large pry bar on the wheel hub assembly
07:42control arm. Push down on the control arm and also push up at the same time on the wheel hub port.
07:48Make sure you don't disturb or pinch this rubber seal that's on the bottom there on the control arm itself.
07:54Push down as such again using those surfaces. You are attempting to remove or push down this control
08:01arm from the wheel hub of course. Push down again using only metal surfaces for leverage. If you have
08:08any trouble removing this control arm from the wheel hub you may lift up with a jack on this position here
08:15on this point. That way you can lift the suspension and this should start to come down. You can help it
08:22come down with the pry bar as well. You may also loosen this bolt. It is a 21 millimeter bolt. This
08:29is the control arm on the inside on the inner side. You may loosen up that bolt to help that loosen up a
08:34little bit. Push down again on the metal surfaces. Watch that rubber and that should be your control
08:40arm link removed from the wheel hub control arm port. Push it to the side. Make sure you remove the ABS
08:46sensor which is on your wheel hub. It's on the rear side with a 10 millimeter socket for this bolt.
08:53And then make sure you stow it away from any kind of pinch point or hammering. Make sure you do not
08:57damage it. You are now ready to remove this large 32 millimeter wheel hub nut completely. That is the nut
09:04removed. Now remove the outer CV axle link from the wheel hub by pulling it out vigorously. You may have to
09:11wiggle it. Push it left and right up and down and pull it straight out from the wheel hub by pushing it
09:16into the vehicle. It's time to remove the entire CV axle. You have to remove it from the transmission.
09:24So put an oil pan directly under the transmission link. Again wear insulated gloves when you're doing
09:29this. There are high voltage lines nearby. Also lay or stand on a insulated rubber mat and use a face shield
09:38when reaching into areas where voltage may exist which is this area. If at all possible disable the
09:44high voltage system. Look at your vehicle's maintenance manual for that. Then remove the inner
09:49CV axle link from the transmission by prying it out straight out with a large pry bar or a CV axle fork.
09:57It should not be too difficult to pop this out straight out. This is a bottom up view of the CV axle.
10:04That is the transmission side. Pry out. Be gentle and pry out straight out from the transmission.
10:11Make sure you don't put any pressure on any kind of seal, rubber seal. Put pressure for leverage on metal.
10:18That is the CV axle removed from the transmission. That's the transmission already. With the removed
10:25shaft inspect the transmission for any seal damage. The seal is right inside of here. You may be able to
10:31feel it and if it is damaged, nicked, cut, bulging, bent in any way. Now it's time to replace that.
10:38Ensure the parts are identical once you pull the part out. Make sure the good part is identical to
10:45the old part. Make sure you match the part numbers and also make sure you put the good part in. Make
10:50sure you mark that old part. Clean any leaked transmission fluid. You will have to replace
10:55the fluid later on. Inspect the wheel hub side. There is a bulb bearing here and the teeth on this
11:02gear. Insert. Make sure that's not damaged in any way. If it is, now is a good time to replace that.
11:07Make sure you look and inspect those two sides from several angles and feel into it.
11:13And then install the new CV axle straight into the transmission. That side first. And push it
11:19vigorously straight in until you feel and hear a snap or click. Again look for the gap. Make sure
11:25the gap is the same as the one you saw before you removed it. Again about a quarter inch or 6.35
11:31millimeters. You may have to tap here on this shaft and on the wheel hub side. On the end of the shaft
11:37make sure you use a heavy rubber mallet and tap straight in until you hear the click or the snap
11:43and you have the good proper gap. Once you do that, on the transmission side, move to the wheel hub
11:48side. Push the CV outer axle joint into the wheel hub hole. Wiggle it around to insert. Should be a
11:55bit easier than the other side. Make sure the teeth are lined up and push the shaft with the teeth
12:01straight through. Then install the wheel hub nut. The 32 millimeter large nut. Make sure it goes in
12:07straight by hand. Don't force it at all. And then go ahead and once it's lined and you are completely sure
12:13that it's going straight, not crooked. Then go ahead and put the impact gun on it. Finish tightening it
12:19up all the way. Put the punch in it, back in it, in the nut itself, not the shaft with a steel punch
12:25and a heavy sledge hammer. Then go ahead and install your control arm back in the wheel hub port. Once
12:32that is installed, you should be able to work it in, wiggling it in without having to tap it. You may have
12:37to tap it with the rubber mallet on the bottom. Install the 18 millimeter bolt and nut. Then make
12:43sure that you install your ABS sensor with the 10 millimeter bolt. Make sure you tighten up this 21
12:49millimeter bolt completely. And inspect all bolts, nuts and connections in the area. Refill any missing
12:55transmission oil. Look for the spot where you are going to be refilling that. Make sure you use the
13:00correct transmission oil type or fluid. And carefully lower the vehicle to the ground and test drive it
13:06if possible.
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