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Oliver Chen: Retail's Single Best Buy
Bloomberg
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1 day ago
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00:00
Oliver, I remember the day a pair of 501 Levi's became more than $9.99 a pair.
00:08
You feature in your research note Levi's.
00:13
What is their strategy given Amazon and given 2025 retail?
00:20
Well, Tom, it's a pleasure to be here.
00:22
Happy Black Friday as well.
00:24
Levi's is an iconic brand with dominant market share at the premium end of the market.
00:29
Also, as we think about what's happening now in product execution, it's about classics with a twist.
00:35
It's about getting great value as well.
00:37
And denim fits really nicely into these themes.
00:40
What Levi's is doing specifically is more direct to consumer, basically opening their own stores globally.
00:46
And consumers are looking for value.
00:48
It plays quite nicely with quality.
00:50
As you know, 501s last forever, and you shouldn't wash them either.
00:54
We turn to Surrey, oh, Tom, yeah, I get that lecture at home.
00:57
We turn to Surveillance Fashion Correspondent, Lisa Matteo.
01:01
Lisa, Brandy Melville is on the Matteo target, isn't it?
01:05
Oh, okay.
01:06
So yesterday I received my daughter's seven-page PowerPoint presentation for her Christmas list.
01:11
My question to you, Oliver, is are people going to be spending as much as they did last holiday season?
01:17
That's what I want to know because I put a budget out there.
01:19
Yeah, Lisa, first of all, I want that deck, please.
01:23
Second, we are seeing spending.
01:26
We're seeing a consumer that does have plenty of anxiety, that's looking for great deals.
01:31
That being said, the consumer still has money, wants joy.
01:35
We're forecasting up 2% to 3%.
01:37
Keep in mind, inflation and pricing will be about 2% to 3%.
01:41
So your units are flat, and there's a bit of a struggle.
01:45
On the one hand, consumers want joy and wellness and gifting.
01:49
On the other hand, they're feeling anxious.
01:51
So we're watching both, and there's a bunch of cross currents.
01:54
But don't bet against the U.S. consumer.
01:56
It's been solid.
01:57
Worldwide, Oliver Chen with us, T.D. Cohen, and we continue.
02:01
Oliver, are we going to get out charge cards or like the Affirm buy now, pay later kind of thing?
02:07
How are we going to acquire our Christmas, our holiday, 2025?
02:13
Well, we're going to be using both.
02:15
What's still happening is mobile is in the new mall.
02:18
So we're seeing increased rates of mobile use.
02:20
But a bit of everything from buy online, pick up in store to curbside pickup to delivery is being used so much.
02:27
And then I like the good old-fashioned way.
02:29
It's just thrilling to be in the stores this morning and across the country and earlier this week.
02:34
So it's all happening, and certainly these new ways of payment and the future of payments is very different for younger customers, too.
02:44
Oliver Chen on luxury right now.
02:46
Kevin Gordon is in the French Alps at that hotel Audrey Hepburn was in in charade with Cary Grant.
02:52
He emails in, Oliver, with a great question.
02:55
This is Kevin Gordon at Charles Schwab.
02:58
Bottega Venata blew it up and is doing better with the British type Louise Trotter.
03:03
The fashion heads of different luxury brands, they still really matter, don't they?
03:10
Yeah, what's happening is lots of change.
03:13
The creative matters.
03:14
I'm really creating desire, having new design.
03:18
And we're seeing a lot of newness at Gucci and others.
03:21
And Bottega has been doing great.
03:22
The themes for luxury continue to be quiet luxury in terms of what's happening with less focus on logos
03:29
and a real emphasis on quality and material.
03:33
So Bottega Venata fits nicely in that trend.
03:36
As you know, Brunello Cuccinelli, Laura Piana.
03:39
And I'm a personal lover of Gucci, so I want to see them win.
03:42
We're watching some creative change there at Tom Ford, too.
03:46
Right.
03:46
We've seen that.
03:47
And Lisa, you mentioned today Burberry a little bit off the mark.
03:50
They've been hugely promotional.
03:52
Lisa Matteo.
03:52
Now, also on the luxury segment, I'm going through the Wall Street Journal this morning
03:57
and it has this article that says jewelry is outperforming the rest of the luxury world.
04:03
Are you seeing that?
04:05
Yes, we are.
04:05
We love Cartier.
04:07
So there's definitely a barbell and bifurcation where more pressure at the low and middle
04:14
and then some real strength at the high end.
04:16
And Cartier Richemont Group is outperforming Van Cleef as well as Cartier.
04:21
Customers are gravitating towards gold, jewelry, real stores of value.
04:27
And the prices here are compelling because handbag prices have gotten extreme.
04:33
So the Love Collection at Cartier, Love Unlimited at Cartier, the Maison, really enduring value
04:39
and timelessness.
04:40
And overall, the jewelry growth rates have been in the high single digit.
04:44
And we've been struggling to grow in handbags.
04:47
Well, we see M&A this year.
04:49
I mean, in so many other industries, we talk about mergers and acquisitions and Wall Street's
04:54
on fire with a boom economy.
04:56
In the Oliver Chen world, do they gobble up the weak providers in luxury or, frankly, in
05:03
other markets as well?
05:05
Yeah, Tom, I think what we'll see is selective M&A.
05:08
Beauty is always an M&A-orientated sector in terms of large players acquiring brands that
05:15
have been developed by founders.
05:17
Skincare, longevity, niche fragrances, those are big opportunities.
05:22
In luxury, it'll be selective.
05:24
There are some assets that have sold, and we'll see.
05:27
But the market's getting better with the consumer on more stable footing.
05:31
So M&A is totally possible.
05:34
And we're watching the IPO market too.
05:36
Oliver Chen, your single Best Buy, please.
05:39
We like Walmart.
05:40
We like the AI story.
05:41
We like the value story.
05:43
We like delivery, curbside pickup, marketplace model, digital advertising.
05:47
That remains a favorite for us.
05:49
Oliver, I got a PE of 43 on Walmart.
05:53
You've got to be kidding me.
05:55
How is that possible?
05:57
There's a lot ahead.
05:58
Digital advertising for Walmart is in the $5 billion range.
06:02
Think about Google, Amazon, and others that are 50 plus.
06:05
Furthermore, their capabilities, it's themes about the big getting bigger and reaching more
06:10
and more profitability online, in part because of digital advertising as well as the marketplace.
06:16
In addition, it's defensive in that it's a leading grocery business with 60% of the revenue
06:21
being grocery.
06:22
So we're excited about all these things on the offense, on AI, as well as delivery and micro
06:27
fulfillment, on the defense, as well as the everyday low price.
06:31
And that's what consumers are looking for today.
06:33
Finally, they're getting higher household income consumers as well.
06:37
And they're serving the middle and low well too with that everyday low price.
06:41
I grew up in Louisiana going to the Walmart Supercenter.
06:44
And it's a real community-driven retailer as well.
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