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Formed from the remains of a 2.5 million-year-old imploded volcano, the Ngorongoro crater is a study in contradictions: On one hand, it's a self-sustained and plentiful land that provides for the many animals that call it home. Conversely, its isolation threatens the existence of many of its key species. What does the future hold for this unique habitat?
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00:00The N'Goro N'Goro crater is an environment both beautiful and unusual.
00:14It contains an array of habitats and a year-long supply of water.
00:20This ensures that it is always teeming with life, even at the height of the dry season.
00:32But this blessing can quickly become a curse.
00:38Its closed-off nature has caused behaviour unseen anywhere outside of its walls.
00:51This is the N'Goro N'Goro crater.
00:56The cursed haven.
01:2040 million years ago, the rifting began.
01:26When the Earth's crust along Africa's eastern plain started to thin, a massive fault line formed.
01:39As the continent split apart, the land on either side collapsed.
01:52And lava for a stop from within the Earth.
02:06Leaving a massive depression of highlands and volcanoes.
02:23The Great Rift Valley.
02:31Two and a half million years ago, one of these volcanoes erupted.
02:38The N'Goro N'Goro volcano was about the same size as Kilimanjaro.
02:48Two and a half million years ago, one of these volcanoes erupted.
02:54The N'Goro N'Goro volcano was about the same size as Kilimanjaro.
02:59Trapped lava from within the base had nowhere to move.
03:05And the entire mountain imploded.
03:08Forming what is known as a caldera.
03:12For years it remained desolate and uninhabited.
03:16But as the fires settled and the slopes cooled.
03:22Vegetation started to colonize the steep banks.
03:26Thriving off the rich soils and moisture.
03:33Herbivores followed the flora over the rim.
03:37And down into the crater.
03:40Soon after, the carnivores followed.
04:02With no incentive to leave, the animals have stayed here ever since.
04:07The result is an oasis of wildlife known as the N'Goro N'Goro crater.
04:20Covering an area of 125 square miles,
04:25the N'Goro N'Goro crater in Tanzania is the largest intact caldera on earth.
04:30Today, 25,000 large animals make their home here.
04:47Among these is the greatest concentration of carnivores on the planet.
04:51Some of the world's oldest elephants.
05:04Largest grazers.
05:09And most charismatic birds.
05:11And their desire to stay is closely related to the unusual layout of the land.
05:21The N'Goro N'Goro crater has a range of habitats within one consolidated arena.
05:35From plains.
05:36To freshwater swamps.
05:37Soda lakes.
05:38Forests.
05:39And wetlands.
05:40To freshwater swamps.
05:41To freshwater swamps.
05:42To freshwater swamps.
05:43To freshwater swamps.
05:44To freshwater swamps.
05:45Soda lakes.
05:49Forests.
05:53And wetlands.
05:54The Cray.
05:55The Cray.
05:56The Cray-tree.
05:57The Cray-tree.
05:58The Cray-tree.
05:59The Cray-tree.
06:02For the Cray-tree.
06:07The Cray-tree.
06:12DURING Tanzania's dry season, the Cray-tree.
06:14During Tanzania's dry season, the craters' savannah becomes frail and desolate.
06:27Each resident must embark on a migration within the crater walls to reach its water source.
06:35The wetlands in the center of Ngorongoro provide generously all year round.
06:43Tempted to stay inside because of its permanent supply of water, the inhabitants rarely step
06:49outside of the sheer walls.
06:53This has caused behavior not seen in any other animals on the planet.
07:00Imprisoned by their natural instincts, they stay within this amphitheater, even when it
07:07is to their detriment.
07:13Finding the question as to whether it is a paradise or a prison.
07:20Lions are the famed hunters of the African savannah.
07:27They are highly effective pack predators, able to take on large prey due to their damage.
07:33size and strength.
07:40They are highly effective pack predators, able to take on large prey due to their size and
07:47strength.
07:49They are highly effective.
07:50They are highly effective.
07:56famous trader sheep Mobbing to rebel entrants are highly effective.
07:57They are highly effective movement.
08:02tone are highly effective.
08:07confidentry.
08:10But the lions in the sea
08:40the crater are different.
08:45The dominant prides, unwilling to share in the bounty of Ngorongoro, have chased away
08:52all migrating lions that attempted to enter.
08:57Because of this, the crater has caused what is referred to as a genetic bottleneck, limiting
09:04the gene pool.
09:07All of the crater lions are descended from a single, isolated population.
09:14Generations of interbreeding have left these lions more prone to disease.
09:23Because of the consolidated nature of the crater, their natural survival instincts have become
09:28their biggest detriment.
09:33The dangers of holding on to the spoils of Ngorongoro has taken its toll.
09:40And this has caused another inversion in the usual hierarchies of the animal world.
09:54This is the only place on the planet where lions are not the kings of the savannah.
10:11In Ngorongoro, lions scavenge up to 80% of their food from the dominant hyena clans.
10:22The crater is home to 400 spotted hyenas.
10:28And here, they are unmatched for their size, power and hunting efficiency.
10:38The crater hyenas do not suffer from interbreeding as the lions do.
10:44Males are chased from their birth group by the dominant females.
10:49This forces them to reproduce elsewhere.
10:53The hyenas roam the dry plains of the crater as the unexpected rulers of an unorthodox domain.
11:16Even in the depths of the dry season, the Ngorongoro crater boasts an abundance of residents.
11:23And their desire to stay is closely related to the history of the land.
11:32During the formation of the Great Rift Valley, a surge of landscapes emerged.
11:44As the ground broke apart, a range of new environments and species were born.
11:55The crater is a product of this tectonic flux, and it has inherited some interesting characteristics
12:02because of this.
12:04As clouds scrape the top of the montane forest on the rim, moisture is continuously flushed
12:10through the system.
12:15As a result, it creates its own climate, separate from the surrounding areas.
12:20Even in the dry season, when everything else begins to wither, the crater forests still flourish.
12:39This dense greenery is a result of the unique topography of the rim.
12:58It's a forest haven, unhindered by the changing seasons.
13:15It's a forest of the sea, but it is an island where it is.
13:19It's a forest sense that it can run into the water.
13:24It's a forest and a forest, but it naturally reaches the other one.
13:27It's a forest that can be seen as a forest.
13:31It is a forest that can be found when the sea has ever named above.
13:33It's a forest that can be found unless the sea is still in the forest.
13:38Every year, outside of the caldera walls, tens of thousands of animals migrate across
13:57the Serengeti to escape Tanzania's dry season.
14:02But the crater animals stay where they are.
14:07They circulate around the crater floor every day on internal migrations in search of grazing
14:14and water.
14:22Though the cloud forests on the rim maintain moisture all year round, during periods of
14:28drought little of this trickles down to the savannah on the crater floor.
14:34Even the majority of the animals that live here are confined to endure this scarce habitat.
14:49Wildebeest are restricted to eat on the Ngorongoro crater's savannah biome.
14:58Their broad muzzle and loose lips are adaptations suited to rapid bulk feeding.
15:08They feast on grass that responds well to grazing, trampling and manure.
15:25They cannot graze the grasses on the rim, which are too delicate to deal with the wildebeest's
15:32boisterous eating habits.
15:35This keeps the wildebeest on the dry plateau below.
15:42To be continued...
15:49To be continued...
15:55When rains are minimal,
16:24these shallow-rooted grasses quickly stop growing.
16:35The confined nature of the crater means that the plains become crowded wastelands with
16:40little moisture.
16:49But wildebeest need to drink daily.
17:02So they are limited to pastures no further than nine miles away from water.
17:15Every day they must embark on a migration to the wetlands.
17:22But they are not the only ones caught in this unforgiving loop.
17:29N'Goro N'Goro is also home to 4,000 Grant's zebra.
17:36N'Goro N'Goro is also home to 4,000 Grant's zebra.
17:43The two groups of animals constantly feed as they move across the crater floor every day
17:50to the wetlands in the search for water.
17:57N'Goro N'Goro N'Goro.
18:04The two groups of animals constantly feed as they move across the crater floor every day
18:10to the wetlands in the search for water.
18:12water. Where the wildebeest prefer the shoots of new grass closer to the ground, zebra enjoy
18:31the coarser, taller stalks. Zebra are known to be pioneer grazers, moving over a patch
18:41of earth first and cropping it down to a size that other species, including wildebeest, prefer.
19:11Moving in bigger mixed herds reduces an individual's chance of being attacked by creating an added
19:18distraction from predators. This makes travelling in large numbers beneficial, especially in
19:26the crater. For the scavengers, the dry season is a time of opportunity. Every life taken
19:33within the crater is a chance to feed. Golden jackals stalk the grasslands. The
19:40sea is a chance to feed. Golden jackals stalk the grasslands. The sea is a chance to feed
20:00the grasslands, eating whatever they can, when they can.
20:19More adapted to an arid lifestyle than any other species of jackal, they owe their success
20:24their ability to live on anything from fruit and berries to rodents and carrion. They will
20:41eat whatever food can be acquired with the least amount of effort. This is paramount in N'Goro
20:53N'Goro N'Goro, where they have much competition from some formidable foes. In N'Goro N'Goro, hyenas
21:07have dominion over all. Hyena clans exist in strict hierarchies. Social rank is fundamental to the success of their
21:20highly coordinated hunting excursions. And strength is the principle that underlies the whole system.
21:27is the principle that underlies the whole system. Females are ranked according to how many fights they have won. In their world, the most feared is at the top. Their ferocity makes them formidable hunters.
21:34The best fighters have priority.
21:35The best fighters have priority.
21:41at carcasses. And they are highly territorial.
21:48They roam this unusual land as decently.
21:49They roam this unusual land as decently.
21:55and they are highly territorial.
22:13They roam this unusual land as distinctive emperors,
22:20unrivaled for both their strength and hunting efficiency.
22:43For the scavengers, the dry season is a time of plenty.
22:54Tawny eagles are well-known pirates of the savannah,
23:01often intimidating others off a kill in order to enjoy it for themselves.
23:13Their keen eyesight and rapid flight speed ensure that they are quick on the uptake
23:19when the crater claims an animal.
23:35The flat, open nature of the crater floor provides ideal conditions
23:40for another scavenger's impeccable sense of sight.
23:51Vultures soar on thermals to look for carrion.
23:55But the layout of the caldera suits other birds too.
24:05And not all of them favor taking to the skies in the search of food.
24:12Secretary birds thrive in the crater's barren grasslands.
24:22And this is because of the structure of their body.
24:27Secretary birds prefer moving around on their long, powerful legs over flying.
24:33They can move over 18 miles a day in the search for food.
24:46Unlike most birds of prey, their favored method of killing is not with their beaks, but their legs.
24:53Using these powerful pistons to stamp smaller prey, they are efficient predators.
25:05And the desolate plains of Ngoro Ngoro are the ideal hunting ground.
25:10The open layout of the floor is also important for the crater's biggest bird.
25:27Unable to fly, ostriches rely on their speed to evade predators like lions and hyenas.
25:36When they need to, they can sprint over 40 miles an hour.
25:46But when there is no danger around, they do something else.
25:53This dance is an invitation to mate.
25:55Ostrich mating precedes the rains.
26:06This is so that their chicks will be born in the abundance of the wet season.
26:13And they are not the only crater birds joining in the ritual.
26:16Crowned cranes eagerly await the rains.
26:27These elegant birds need permanent marshes to make their nests.
26:33But once again, the dry grass is the reason they have been drawn out from their wetland homes.
26:39The crater floor is a prime hunting ground for them.
26:46They are mixed feeders, eating anything from insects and lizards to flowers and seeds.
26:55These short, dry grasslands enable them to use their long limbs to comb through the savannah in search of smaller prey.
27:11Like everything else in the crater, they need to make the migration every day from the dry savannah feeding grounds to the lush marshlands in search of water.
27:27Raising young in these conditions is no easy feat.
27:51Buffalo are the largest members of their family.
27:55And they require a lot of water to maintain their massive bulk.
28:04But they too can only feed on the dry grasses of the crater floor.
28:12Calves weigh just under a hundred pounds at birth.
28:18And are largely defenceless until they mature.
28:20They are utterly dependent on their mother's knowledge to survive the long periods of drought.
28:30And they too must journey between the crater's savannah and its marshes every day.
28:36Water is the driving force behind the continued occupancy of the N'Goro N'Goro animals.
28:47There are other areas nearby that support life throughout the year.
28:56But their waters are inaccessible to most.
28:59The lakes of the rift valley are a product of aggressive geological forces.
29:08And some have retained inhospitable characteristics because of this.
29:14Before the rifting, there were no lakes in Africa.
29:18But as the earth was violently reshaped, water began to settle.
29:27When the lakes of the Great Rift Valley formed, much of the ground was covered in lava and ash.
29:34As water filtered through the ground, volcanic chemicals were carried into the lakes, creating a hostile aquatic world.
29:49Lake Natron lies at the foot of Mount Old Dono Legai, 60 miles to the north of N'Goro N'Goro.
30:04Its caustic waters are strong enough to corrode human limbs.
30:08Only about 15 inches of rain reaches it per year, much of which is phantom rain.
30:21The water evaporates before it has even touched the surface of the lake.
30:29As a result, the lake's waters do not come from the sky, but rather from under the ground.
30:38Little that comes into contact with the volcanic waters survives.
30:45But a single-celled organism, visible only when magnified a thousand times, thrives here.
30:53Spirulina platinesis flourish in the carbonate-rich water under high temperatures and plenty of sunlight,
31:02providing a source of food for one of the planet's oldest birds.
31:08Spirulina platinesis reach out to Los Angeles and the eventualities of the with usよね.
31:16Checking the alive Gutenberg and the killing of theτανya had caused by the ajudus.
31:36The flamingo's specially adapted bill allows it to graze the upper inch of the corrosive
31:59water and harvest the spirulina.
32:09The heavy arch of the bill allows great quantities to be sucked over fine hairs inside their mandible,
32:18filtering out the food.
32:27These waters can sometimes exceed 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
32:49A flamingo's hard featherless leg is one of the few things that can withstand the corrosive
32:55lake.
32:56This allows them to wade to the mudflats right in the middle.
33:10And these are no more welcoming than the surrounding waters.
33:16Mountains are high.
33:17Winds are strong.
33:21Almost no vegetation survives.
33:24And movement across the thick, muddy terrain is impossible for most mammals.
33:31The mudflats also create the harshest nursery on the planet.
33:42Using Lake Natron's volcanic water as a moat against all land-based predators, the flamingo's
33:48have made the barren ground in the middle the ideal breeding site.
33:52This is the largest flamingo breeding ground in the world.
34:00The land's unusual and inhospitable nature has given them exclusive feeding and breeding
34:07rights.
34:08But they are not the only creatures that have adapted to withstand the volcanic waters.
34:22The alkaline tilapia.
34:25These fish live on the edge of the hot spring inlets, where the water reaches 120 degrees Fahrenheit.
34:34They have evolved to endure the high temperatures and dense alkalinity.
34:40The only places in the world that they occur are the soda lakes of the Great Rift Valley.
34:50The landscape is harsh and unyielding.
34:53Yet over time, life has adapted to survive.
35:00Thriving off the volcanic hostility and unusual geography, the animals that live here have
35:06learned to cope with the severe landscape.
35:10And in return, they are provided with a haven.
35:15Because so few animals can survive here, the inhabitants of the Rift Valley's soda lakes
35:21have their own sanctuary crafted from lava and ash.
35:29The anomalous formation of the crater highlands ensures that Ngorongoro has water all year round.
35:35Outside the caldera, the nearby Empakai crater remains full and luscious, regardless of the surrounding
35:50changes in climate.
35:55The water moves from this basin into Ngorongoro, feeding its wetlands throughout the year.
36:07And this enables animals to live here, no matter how little is provided by the rain.
36:14Every day, the inhabitants must make the walk across the crater's savanna to reach its enduring water supply.
36:33This brings the entire population of the crater together.
36:48Though they all have different feeding requirements, every animal needs to drink.
36:54throughout the day, they spread to different sides of the crater floor.
37:02But when it is time to get to the water, the entire range of the park's wildlife all funneled towards the marshes.
37:10The Ngorongoro crater is a sanctuary for Tanzania's last few remaining black rocks.
37:32The Ngorongoro crater is a sanctuary for Tanzania's last few remaining black rhinos.
37:47Even when the dry season is at its harshest, they are provided with water.
37:59They are normally elusive, hiding within the forests.
38:04But they are drawn out to join the rest of the residents in the search for nourishment.
38:11The wetland is the life force of the Ngorongoro crater.
38:17It ties together all of the park's residents.
38:23It is the only reason that they can endure the severity of the dry season.
38:29The Ngorongoro waters support all stages of life, from the youngest animals to some of the planet's oldest.
38:50It is a haven for old elephant bulls that wander inside the crater for the safety and seclusion that it offers.
38:58It is the only reason why it is the only reason why it is.
39:03Elephants' tusks keep growing their entire lives.
39:11By the time a bull is 60 years old, his tusks can reach a combined weight of 260 pounds.
39:19As a result, the Ngorongoro elephants are endowed with tusks of a size seldom seen outside the crater walls.
39:28In theteen of the mountains, a mountain is a constant rouse.
39:30It is the only reason why it is the only reason why it is so.
39:32For the waterfowl, the wetland is a constant home.
39:34It is the only reason why it is so.
39:35For the waterfowl, the wetland is a constant home.
40:01Great white pelicans are bound to the water throughout the day.
40:05In the morning, they will hunt for fish.
40:12And for the rest of the day, they will socially bathe and preen.
40:21Their fishing techniques see them dependent on the shallow, warm waters.
40:30They are joined by other birds on the hunt.
40:36The yellow-billed stork's odd-shaped bill is perfectly adapted to fishing in drying rivers.
40:42As fish become trapped in shallower pools, the storks use their feet to stir up the muddy water before stabbing fish with their sharp beak.
40:55They also have an intriguing way of cooling themselves in the heat of the day.
41:11While standing around preening, they will urinate on themselves to cool their legs.
41:17As the urine crystallizes, the whitish colors act as a screen to reflect the sun.
41:25For them, water is a constant source of food and nourishment.
41:39And the crater's wetlands are a constant home for another, far larger resident.
42:01For hippo to live comfortably, they need a water source that is deep enough for them to submerge completely.
42:25And they also need to be close to grasslands.
42:41These pools provide them with the ideal home.
43:09This water haven is the beating heart of the park.
43:18It supports and provides for all of its residents all year round.
43:26And without its dependable sustenance, life in the crater would not be able to endure.
43:32The sheer 1,900 foot drop of the caldera walls sever this landscape from the surrounding areas in many ways.
44:01It has its own apex predators, a separate climate, and a wealth of habitats unseen outside.
44:12But what is on the face of it, a wildlife oasis, may just be something closer to a natural prism.
44:22It is a constant home for herbivores, no matter how frail and overpopulated the grasslands become.
44:39Or how many predators roam the enclosed amphitheater.
44:44Seduced by the temptations of a year-long water supply, abundant grazing, and large numbers of prey, the inhabitants were tempted over the crater walls thousands of years ago.
45:01And many of their descendants have never left.
45:08Shackled by the promises that it offers, their instincts for survival keep them bound to Ngoro Ngoro, even when this is to their detriment.
45:18The life that endures here does so according to its own rules.
45:25Produced by the hostility of a volcanic environment, the Ngoro Ngoro crater is both a generous habitat and a dangerous trap.
45:36And each of its residents has to navigate this boundary in the daily search for water.
45:43The result is an animal kingdom like no other.
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