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00:00¡Gracias!
00:30I'm Suresh Das.
00:31I've spent my career writing about the local favorites that make Canada's food scene truly unique.
00:36I believe every bite tells a story.
00:39Now, I want to share those stories with you.
00:50So I've been to Montreal many times in my life.
00:52It's a city you can so easily fall in love with.
00:54The pace is different, the culture, the arts, the food especially,
00:58which is my biggest interest.
01:00In the past, I've explored many neighborhoods.
01:02Little Vietnam, Chinatown, the obvious.
01:04But this time around, I'm here for something specific.
01:07The Maghreb community.
01:09It's a community that spans multiple countries from Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia, Mauritania, and Libya,
01:16and some even from West Sahara.
01:18Montreal has probably the largest Maghreb community in North America
01:23because we opened immigration in the 60s and because of French, because of the language.
01:27The Maghreb community's cuisine is slow cooking and slow eating
01:32and slow enjoying and celebrating of food and culture
01:35with the people that are special around you.
01:38There is this one restaurant that everyone said that you should go to to start the journey.
01:43Hey Google, take me to Lakhaima restaurant.
01:48Navigating to Lakhaima cuisine no-made.
01:50At Lakhaima, a restaurant where people come to experience Mauritanian food,
02:04Chef Atik Hould has become a Montreal emissary for Maghreb cuisine and culture.
02:10Hey, how are you? Good to see you. Good to see you.
02:13Come on inside, come on inside.
02:14This is incredible, my friend. This is amazing. I feel like I'm somewhere else.
02:19I feel like you've transported me.
02:21You're in Africa.
02:22I feel like I'm in Mauritania.
02:23In Mauritania, to the desert.
02:26Being at La Caima makes me feel like I'm being whisked away to parts of North Africa.
02:31I'm from Mauritania, which is West Africa.
02:35Many different tribes and traditions and ethnic.
02:39I grew up as a nomad.
02:42With my tribe, we move with our animals, the camels and goats.
02:47And we move also to get the salt and to have life.
02:52When you grow up as a nomad, time is the element, the key, the life.
02:57What we have like a nomad is the time, nothing else.
03:00So everything is slower.
03:02Slow.
03:02And you enjoy every moment.
03:03Slow, take 12 hours.
03:03Sometimes I cook for 36 hours, one dish.
03:07And you take it out, you add this spice, you add that one.
03:09It's slow cook.
03:11You mix it until I get the flavors that make me happy.
03:15And it probably tastes amazing after 12 hours.
03:17When you cook it slowly, you get those flavors.
03:20Right, everything comes out.
03:22Oh.
03:23There is no printed menu, and the offerings change daily, reflecting the adaptability of nomadic life.
03:30The entire meal is served family style.
03:33Whoa.
03:33With a selection of dishes on one shared platter.
03:37This is the chicken with olives, lemon, pickles, onion.
03:40And that's the beef with dates.
03:42And this is vegan, made with cassava leaves, chickpeas, beans, and dry mango.
03:47Whoa.
03:48And all this in the couscous.
03:50You read my mind.
03:51I want to go for the beef and the date.
03:53The beef with dates, you mix it a little bit with couscous.
03:55Okay, okay.
03:56Okay.
03:56To get the flavors.
03:57So you go deep inside, okay?
03:58Yeah.
04:06Whoa.
04:07Whoa.
04:07It works so well together.
04:10But that beef, how long did you cook that beef for?
04:12Because it's so delicate.
04:13That's 12 hours.
04:1412-hour beef.
04:14Yeah.
04:15And the date is just like the right amount of sweetness.
04:17It's not too much.
04:19This rich date and beef dish is simmered slowly in a single pot over low heat, using spices that
04:26he brings in from Mauritania, starting with salt.
04:30That salt is coming from Mauritania, is the desert salt.
04:34It makes a great flavor.
04:36It's different from the regular salt.
04:37It's very important to have that flavor from the past.
04:41Thousands of thousands of years.
04:43For me, it's all the past with the future together.
04:47In the nomadic life, you have to cook with what you find.
04:51If you have only onions, you cook with onions.
04:53If you have a bread, you cook with the bread.
04:56You use what you have.
04:57That's how I'm cooking every day, to mix this with that and this and that.
05:01Oh, that's wonderful.
05:03Like the beef, the chicken is roasted and then stewed until extremely tender.
05:10Its silky texture is punched up by the briny explosion of the olives.
05:18The olive brings you to Morocco.
05:21Yeah, the olive is a star player here.
05:23And you start running and you come up.
05:24Yeah.
05:25Right, right.
05:26With no direction.
05:27Because you just have energy, you're ready to go.
05:30Exactly.
05:30Excited.
05:31And the chicken is nice and tender, but all of it is like just gives it a little pop.
05:35Yeah.
05:35And the couscous kind of brings it all together.
05:37Exactly.
05:40One of the things we share with all of our neighbors is couscous.
05:45In Mauritania, we eat it every night.
05:47When I'm cooking, I connect to my past, I connect to my tribe, I connect to my caramels.
05:54We have to cook it slowly to give time to the grain to break them and to put them back again
06:01and to mix them.
06:02And when you've done that, you can find that flavors of the couscous is totally different.
06:07You can eat the grain by themselves without any sauce.
06:10A teak steams its couscous three times.
06:13Between each round, it's coated with olive oil and fluffed by hand, leaving every grain
06:18tender, distinct and full of flavor.
06:21Now, we've been across North Africa.
06:28Now, we jump in to the west.
06:31You cross the desert.
06:33The tribe is different.
06:34Now, we have the cassava.
06:36I make it with squash and chickpeas to have the flavor of West Africa.
06:42Mm-hmm.
06:43Mm-hmm.
06:44So, it's not like a mango.
06:45It's a dried mango?
06:46It's in the back.
06:47It's dried mango in the left.
06:49But the cassava and the rice.
06:52Okay.
06:54At Lekhaima, a teak isn't just feeding you.
06:58He's showing you his life's journey.
07:00You cook what you find, share what you have, and most importantly, you take your time.
07:15I have visited Montreal many, many times over the years.
07:18And I've explored many different parts of Montreal.
07:21But I haven't been to this neighborhood that is commonly known as Petit Magreb.
07:28It's this really wonderful strip where you have this high concentration of North African and West Saharan little boulangeries, bakeries,
07:37that are nestled into this one row.
07:39And I've been told that the first place you want to go to is Boucherie Le Classico.
07:47Algerian street food might not make you think of slow-cooked meals, but in Petit Magreb, taking things slow is a way of life.
07:54Nabil Zatouni is serving up bold Algerian flavors and reimagined Montreal classics, all in the form of unforgettable sandwiches.
08:04I've heard so many amazing things about your little shop.
08:07Really?
08:08So what's the most popular sandwich on the menu?
08:10It is the meat and the merguez.
08:12Actually, we have some fresh merguez that we just made now.
08:15So is that like North African style merguez?
08:17Yeah, merguez is really North African.
08:19Oh, yeah.
08:19It might turn Algerian after having that sandwich.
08:22Is that a guarantee?
08:23Okay.
08:23I love it.
08:24I'm going to have both.
08:25Okay.
08:25I'll see you in a moment.
08:26Okay.
08:26All right.
08:27One of the Magreb's most famous food exports is the spicy merguez sausage.
08:33Nabil Zatouni is crafted in-house with seasoned lamb and beef.
08:37He also has his own take on the Montreal classic smoked meat.
08:41But it's his handmade sauces that really elevate these creations and give them a distinctive Algerian flavor.
08:51This looks incredible.
08:53So this is the smoked meat.
08:55Yeah.
08:55And right next to it, you have the merguez.
08:56The merguez.
08:57Whoa.
08:58I can smell it as soon as you open the door.
09:00Whoa.
09:01So you were born in Montreal?
09:03I was born right on that corner.
09:05Oh, across the street.
09:06Yes, sir.
09:06I got to try this sandwich.
09:07Yeah, of course.
09:08My favorite.
09:09Mmm.
09:12Mmm.
09:12Whoa.
09:13That's just so tender, Nabil.
09:15Mmm.
09:15It kind of just like splits in your mouth when you bite into it.
09:18That's the magic of the smoke.
09:18Yeah.
09:19But what really kind of sets it apart is there's something in that meat.
09:22The sauce.
09:23It's the sauce.
09:24It's the Algerian sauce.
09:25The Algerian sauce, yeah.
09:26Bright orange sauce that's in the middle.
09:28You slather the meat with it.
09:29And the harissa.
09:30And the harissa, right.
09:31That's the red at the bottom.
09:33I always put it on the bottom.
09:34It's like the perfect ratio.
09:35Exactly.
09:36Yeah.
09:36Nabil's Algerian sauce is made with harissa, a spicy roasted red pepper paste, mayo, and
09:44finely chopped onions.
09:45Paprika adds a beautiful smoky flavor that really complements the heat.
09:51From what I'm learning about Maghreb culture, there is this real sense of slow cooking and
09:56enjoying food very slowly with friends or your family and taking the time.
10:00And that kind of really makes sense to me with smoked meat because smoked meat is not something
10:04that you do very quickly.
10:05No.
10:06No.
10:06It takes a lot of time.
10:07It takes a lot of time.
10:07Right.
10:07And so then how did you go from the smoked meat to this guy, the merguez, which I've heard
10:12so much about.
10:13You cannot be Algerian to have a butcher shop without having merguez.
10:16Is that right?
10:16Yeah.
10:16This is like the gold standard.
10:17You have to.
10:18Yeah.
10:19And it has to taste good also.
10:21This bread is really special.
10:22Where's the bread from?
10:23Right across the street there.
10:24You know what?
10:25Let me take you to my favorite pastry.
10:27So it's an Algerian spot?
10:28Yes, sir.
10:29Amazing.
10:30All right.
10:30Let's go.
10:35So would you say there's more than 20 Algerian businesses here?
10:38More than 20.
10:39Yeah.
10:39Yeah.
10:39Close to 30.
10:40You can get everything you need on this street.
10:42Oh, yeah.
10:42Absolutely.
10:43There's a certain sort of feel and vibe to it.
10:45I mean, from the signage to the type of businesses, even like those beautiful smells that you're getting
10:50from the pastry shops.
10:51So this used to be a sin butcher shop.
10:54This is where I was a kid.
10:56Sin would cook me some merguez.
10:58Oh, wow.
10:59Exactly, yeah.
11:00I see where the merguez is coming from now.
11:02Yeah, yeah.
11:02But that's the first butcher shop that opened here in Jantano from our community.
11:06Yeah, and this is where I get my bread.
11:09You're going to love it.
11:09Okay, I can't wait.
11:10All right.
11:11Awesome.
11:14Oh, this is really cool.
11:16Yeah.
11:16So many different pastries.
11:18You have all the bread over there.
11:19Yeah.
11:19And this is authentic pastry from Algeria.
11:22Yeah.
11:22The makrot on the top.
11:24And you have here the baklava.
11:26Baklava, yeah.
11:27Baklava.
11:27Algerian desserts are made with semolina flour and nuts grown in the Maghreb, like pistachios
11:33and walnuts.
11:35Oh, amazing.
11:36Thank you.
11:37Fragrant floral waters and sweet, sticky syrups give them a glossy finish.
11:44Oh, yeah.
11:45These pastries offer this community a bridge back home with every bite.
11:49Thank you, Nabil.
11:50It's been an amazing tour.
11:52My pleasure.
11:52And we'll come back for round two one day.
11:54I really hope so.
11:55I love Montreal.
12:08It's the perfect backdrop to experience Maghreb culture.
12:11In the Maghreb, there's no such thing as grabbing a quick coffee.
12:15So today, I'm taking some time to meet my dear friend and fellow podcaster, Emna Achor.
12:22Emna.
12:22Hi.
12:23How are you?
12:25Good.
12:25How are you?
12:25Good to see you.
12:26Coffee and desserts?
12:28My favorite.
12:28Oh, I love it, love it.
12:29Let's go.
12:32Emna is taking me to experience her culture at a Tunisian place in the Maya landing.
12:38She's my go-to source for the city's best eats, and she's been raving about the desserts
12:42here at Kujina Cafe.
12:44It's owned by Malek Ben Amar and Baia Ben Millet.
12:51Hello.
12:52Hi.
12:52How are you?
12:53This is my friend, Suresh.
12:55Hi.
12:55Malek and Baia.
12:56Exactly, yeah.
12:57Okay.
12:57Very nice to meet you.
12:58You grew up in Montreal.
12:59Yeah.
13:00And you guys also grew up in Montreal?
13:01No, we grew up in Tunisia.
13:02Oh, so what made you decide to open up Kujina?
13:05I think we needed some place that would resemble where we came from and where we grew up.
13:10Somewhere where people knew each other, where you could be included very easily.
13:14That's very nice.
13:15I mean, I'm not Tunisian, but I'm fully ready to dive in.
13:17So, like, Malek, what's on the menu here?
13:19What do you guys do?
13:20What I would recommend would be Arabic coffee.
13:22It's a coffee that you would drink very slowly.
13:25It's a social coffee.
13:26Kind of like an espresso where you're supposed to have it.
13:28Here, you're not supposed to take it to go kind of thing?
13:30No, no, you don't take that to go.
13:32You don't take it to go.
13:32You need to sit to take your sweet time with it, to have a conversation around it.
13:39The experience is more close to a wine tasting than a coffee.
13:42Oh, okay, okay.
13:49So what are you doing right now, Malek?
13:50Right now what we're doing is the Arabic coffee.
13:52So as you can see, we put it in those little cups that are made out of copper.
13:56You put boiling water in it, mix it well, and then we're going to let it cook.
14:03You have to make sure it doesn't burn.
14:05You have to keep an eye on it.
14:06And so, like, what's wrong with taking it to go, Malek?
14:08You're moving with your coffee.
14:10Everything is going to go back at the top.
14:13Because it's not filtered.
14:14The grounds are still down there.
14:16The coffee ground is super thin.
14:17So it's very, very, very sandy.
14:19If you're just going to get it, Malek, you don't want that.
14:21And this is why it's very strong.
14:23That's why you need to drink it slowly.
14:26That's good to know.
14:27Thank you for that.
14:27The coffee ground are mixed with orange peels, verbena, and cardamom.
14:31And those ingredients came from the Arabs when they conquered North Africa.
14:36I feel like I can kind of get that right now.
14:37The waft is coming to me.
14:38The smell is pretty strong.
14:41So there it is.
14:41Let it sit for like 30 seconds, a minute, and then drink it.
14:45Okay.
14:47Wow, this is awesome.
14:49Thank you, man.
14:50Cheers.
14:50You're welcome.
14:51Cheers.
14:51It's so aromatic.
14:58That's wonderful.
14:59All I'm getting are the aromatics before my mouth even gets to the cup.
15:02Should we try the cake?
15:03Yeah.
15:04So I'm going to go for the...
15:05Fikia cake.
15:05Fikia cake.
15:06Fikia.
15:06Fikia cake.
15:07Yeah.
15:07Okay.
15:08If you're stopping for coffee, it's a crime not to have cake.
15:12Two of Kujina's specialties are fikia, a rich cake of dried nuts infused with a fragrant syrup
15:18of geranium water and topped with pistachios, and the gorgeous El Carmoose, a cheesecake
15:24with a spicy speculose cookie base filled with muscarpone and cream cheese, white chocolate, and topped with a fig compote and dried figs.
15:33Figs are often used in Tunisian desserts, where they've been cultivated for thousands of years, drying slowly and sweetening in the North African sun.
15:44That fig cheesecake, oh my god.
15:48Mmm.
15:50Like it?
15:50Oh yeah.
15:51The texture is just so good, because it has that syrup in there.
15:54Mmm.
15:55It's like just wonderful.
15:57This is exactly how I like my cakes.
15:58Yeah.
15:58I'm sorry, I'm not listening anymore.
16:00Why?
16:00I just need a second.
16:02This is so good.
16:03It's so good?
16:04You have to try this.
16:05Mmm.
16:05Control plates.
16:08It's so fluffy in the middle.
16:12Mmm.
16:14Oh my god.
16:14That is so good.
16:16And the fig, oh, the fig two ways.
16:19Mmm.
16:19Gives it like acidity, I don't know.
16:21And that speculose on the bottom gets a nice little thick crunch.
16:24Yeah.
16:24It's perfect.
16:25Perfectly balanced.
16:25It's perfect, yeah.
16:27Oh, this tastes just like Tunisia.
16:28So you grew up in Montreal.
16:30Yeah.
16:30How often would you be able to get this before coming to Cuisine Café?
16:33Never.
16:35My parents don't bake cakes.
16:37I wouldn't have tried it, right?
16:39That's why it's great to have a place like Cuisine Café in Montreal,
16:42so that I can live my culture through another lens
16:45than the one I just have back home,
16:47than the ones of my parents.
16:48That's amazing.
16:49Should we switch cakes again?
16:50Yeah.
16:51Let's switch cakes.
16:52Everybody knows that hockey runs deep in Canadian veins.
17:07In Montreal, that passion lives just as strongly in the Magrabi community.
17:12I had no idea that Morocco's national hockey team was built right here in Quebec.
17:16The players live and train here, but when they take the ice, they skate for Morocco.
17:23As professional athletes, their lives are so fast-paced.
17:31But these guys always make time to slow down and share a meal together.
17:35And tonight, I'm lucky enough to be invited to join them
17:40for a post-practice traditional Moroccan feast.
17:46Hey, good evening, gentlemen.
17:47Nice to meet you.
17:48How are you guys?
17:49Pretty good.
17:49You?
17:49Good, good, good.
17:51Restaurant La Safiyat is Chef Miriam Elowelai's way of bringing
17:54a taste of her coastal Moroccan city to Montreal.
17:58Oh, thank you, Chef.
18:00Her take on regional dishes is what these guys crave.
18:04Bon appétit.
18:06So, Adil, what do we have here?
18:07This looks like some sort of tagine presentation.
18:09This is a tagine of chicken, saffron, black pepper, a kind of sour butter.
18:19Chicken de Meira, a popular Moroccan wedding dish,
18:23is prepared with onions, ginger, turmeric, saffron, pickled lemons,
18:28and a Moroccan fermented butter called smen,
18:31which lends the dish a pungent blue cheese-like flavor.
18:37Smen is made by salting and aging butter in a sealed jar.
18:41In ancient times, smen was often made and buried at the time of a daughter's birth,
18:46then unearthed years later for a wedding celebration.
18:50The dish is simmered slowly until the meat becomes fork tender,
18:55and it's finished with a scattering of olives.
18:58Usually this is eating the bread by hand.
19:05So you just dip it.
19:06You just dip it, and you eat, you know, usually it's a common plate.
19:10Amazing.
19:11It's so tender, too.
19:12It's very...
19:13It just peels off.
19:17Chicken is so soft, there's like earthy flavors to it, too,
19:21and the olive is like that really nice accent.
19:23The saffron.
19:24That's what it is.
19:25It's a saffron in there.
19:26Yeah.
19:28It kind of comes at you near the end.
19:30I mean, it kind of lingers on your palate.
19:34All Moroccan foods take time.
19:36It really requires a lot of passion.
19:40It's not fast food.
19:43It's something of our tradition.
19:47The refisos is a very traditional dish in Morocco.
19:50We prepare it at the party.
19:52For example, we prepare it at the wedding party.
19:54We prepare it at the party.
19:56It's very traditional and very ancient.
19:58This one is a refisos plate made with the flatbread, pancake bread, chicken with some lentils and onion.
20:07There's saffron in it to give it this little color.
20:10They put some...
20:11Cinnamon.
20:11Cinnamon, exactly.
20:13It's a little punch to it, but just like very mellow, very, very nicely leveled.
20:18I love it.
20:18I grew up on this and just like...
20:20I think it's one of the perfect entree you can get.
20:22You taste it already.
20:23Yeah.
20:24He's hungry right now.
20:26Right.
20:26Okay.
20:26Okay.
20:27This is to load you up.
20:28This is perfect for a hockey player.
20:29It's like something between a flatbread and a pancake.
20:33We call it paratha in India.
20:35We call it like linjeroti in Sri Lanka, but it's that like flaky layered pastry, right?
20:40Exactly.
20:41It's not like paratha, but it's like two layers of paratha.
20:44Right.
20:44Okay.
20:44Yeah.
20:44Right.
20:45Right.
20:45Right.
20:45The food that we're eating right now is very demanding.
20:49The process is long.
20:50Yeah.
20:51Everyone is in the kitchen cooking.
20:52Brings family together.
20:53Not only eating, but also making it.
20:55It does.
20:55In a literal sense, food can bring people together.
20:58Definitely.
20:59Definitely.
20:59Moroccans make sure that you're more than fed properly.
21:03You won't be able to take any more food and they'll keep on telling you.
21:06Oh, I love that.
21:07Cool, cool, cool.
21:08I love that.
21:10I love that.
21:11I feel truly welcomed by my new friends in Montreal's Maghreb community.
21:16Taking time to make connections here has been really meaningful.
21:21Though North Africa is an ocean away, the tradition of unhurried, slow-cooked meals feels right at home in this vibrant city.
21:29This food is usually a food and it's easy to do.
21:31So, always making a lot of food and a drink and a drink, I love it.
21:35Let's go ahead and try and try and take a good, you ain't that bad.
21:38But funny, I love that.
21:38A little bit of a drink.
21:40I love it.
21:40I love it.
21:40I love it.
21:41I love it.
21:41I love it.
21:42I love it.
21:42I love it.
21:45I love it.
21:47I love it.
21:48I love it.
21:49Gracias por ver el video.
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