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Why miners risk their lives in one of the world's saltiest lakes
Insider
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3 hours ago
Known for its colorful pink hues and rich salt deposits, Lake Retba, or Lac Rose, is a driving force of Senegal's economy. But extracting salt from a hypersaline lake comes with its fair share of risks for local miners.
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00:00
This pink lake in Senegal is saltier than the Dead Sea.
00:05
And miners, like Ousmane Dembele,
00:08
scoop out thousands of tons of salt from it every year.
00:13
But plunging into Lake Retba, or La Croze as locals call it,
00:18
is a lot more dangerous than it seems.
00:21
Still, Senegal is West Africa's leading salt producer,
00:35
with ponds scattered across the country.
00:39
Thousands of people depend on the industry.
00:42
But some ecologists worry that La Croze,
00:45
and its signature pink hue, are in danger of disappearing
00:50
because of rapid urbanization and climate change.
00:54
So, what's being done to protect one of Africa's most lucrative lakes,
00:59
as well as the miners who break their backs working here every day?
01:07
Ousmane Dembele, also known as Baba,
01:10
has been diving into La Croze for 20 years.
01:14
Before heading out, he applies shea butter,
01:17
which creates a protective layer over his skin.
01:26
And he covers his legs the best he can with these socks,
01:32
secured with bits of nylon.
01:39
Baba then pushes out this wooden canoe that he bought for nearly $360.
01:44
But it's a lifelong investment.
01:47
He steers it to shallow parts of the lake,
01:51
where water evaporates faster, leaving behind salt crusts.
01:56
Baba and his brother, who taught him the trade,
01:59
can afford very few tools, like these long shovels,
02:12
with which they reach the lake bed.
02:15
They also use their feet to feel for the salt.
02:18
But that can be risky.
02:20
He can't go underwater to look for the cross, because he doesn't have goggles.
02:32
And the high salinity can damage his eyes.
02:39
Baba usually spends four to five hours doing this.
02:45
Over and over again.
02:50
I'm going to go away now.
02:54
Extracting the salt is actually beneficial for the lake,
03:01
which would fill up if the deposits aren't removed.
03:04
In some parts, La Croce is 10 times saltier than normal ocean water.
03:10
That's because it's separated from the Atlantic by a strip of sand dunes
03:15
that formed thousands of years ago.
03:17
While the salt water seeps in from the ocean,
03:20
there's no outlet for La Croce.
03:23
And as the sun evaporates surface water faster than it comes in,
03:27
it leaves behind high concentrations of salt and other minerals.
03:32
At its peak, salinity can be as high as 40%,
03:36
even more than the Dead Sea.
03:39
As for its signature pink color,
03:41
that comes from a type of algae called Dunaliella salina,
03:46
which flourishes in salt water.
03:48
It produces an orange-red pigment when it absorbs sunlight.
03:52
That's why La Croce glows brightest in the dry season,
03:57
between November and June.
04:00
Once full, these baskets can weigh about 55 pounds each.
04:05
On a good day, Baba and his brother fill about 60 of these.
04:10
That's as much as the canoe can carry without capsizing.
04:14
So harvesters add these sticks as markers
04:18
to come back and collect more salt later.
04:30
The hard work isn't over yet.
04:37
Kura Sao is one of many workers
04:40
whose job is transporting the salt from the canoe
04:43
into piles along the lake's banks, where it dries off.
04:48
Kura Sao makes about 20 trips back and forth every day.
05:09
For every canoe she unloads, she makes about 1,000 West African francs,
05:12
or 2 U.S. dollars.
05:14
That can buy her a few loaves of bread in Senegal.
05:16
But the more basins she collects, the more money she makes.
05:18
So she fights through the pain.
05:20
I'm afraid, there's hope.
05:21
There's anyone at number zone.
05:22
There are noBERT다 who goes!
05:23
There are no
05:45
The job has also taken a toll on Baba's body,
05:58
which is covered in sores.
06:01
So he applies duct tape on his wounds.
06:15
This tape is the only protection that Baba can afford.
06:21
He makes just $5 to $10 a day based on the amount of salt he harvests.
06:27
Still, he is thankful for it.
06:29
It's a waste of money.
06:31
It's a waste of money.
06:35
It's a waste of money.
06:40
Workers like him are the backbone of Senegal's salt industry,
06:46
harvesting nearly 60,000 metric tons from the lake per year.
06:51
Artisanal extraction started to thrive in the early 70s,
06:55
when the Senegalese government officially classified La Croce as a mine
07:00
and allowed locals to harvest salt without official permits or paying royalties.
07:07
These days, wholesalers buy it directly from people like Baba for up to 80 cents per basket.
07:14
But they often sell it for double that price.
07:18
Salt is also collected in other parts of Senegal.
07:21
Here in the Palmarin region, locals have dug up hundreds of small salt wells
07:27
that naturally collect saline water from the sea.
07:30
Since I was a child, I started working on the sea.
07:35
It was my great work.
07:38
And every day, I came here to start with the sea.
07:41
Women spend up to eight hours a day scooping it up and leaving it out to dry.
07:49
Yes, it's good.
07:51
Yes, it's good.
07:52
Yes, it's good.
07:53
Yes, it's good.
07:54
Yes, it's good.
07:55
Because it's a work.
07:56
It's a work.
07:57
The school, the school, you inscribe your children.
08:02
Women are also taking charge in the nearby salt flats of Fatih.
08:07
And when I arrived in two to three months, four months,
08:11
I've lived that women are also in this place of production
08:15
to exploit saline.
08:16
And that belongs to them.
08:18
And I said, why men and not women?
08:22
Marie Douffe, now known as the Salt Queen, started her own business here.
08:28
One reason why her salt sells fast is because she mixes in iodine.
08:48
Adding the mineral is required in most African countries, but isn't enforced.
08:53
A 2021 survey found that iodine deficiency rates in sub-Saharan Africa
09:00
are twice as high as the global average, contributing to health problems
09:05
like swelling, fatigue and issues during pregnancy.
09:09
While Senegal is the largest salt producer in West Africa, generating about half a million
09:29
tons a year, globally, it doesn't rank among the top 10.
09:34
China is the biggest manufacturer, producing 53 million tons of salt a year.
09:41
Followed by the US and India, which generates 30 million tons of salt annually.
09:48
About a third of it comes from this dry seabed called Little Ron of Kach.
09:55
And it ends up in soaps, detergents and table salt.
09:59
But miners say collecting it in this scorching heat causes boils and skin diseases.
10:06
And just like Senegal, the miners don't make much, earning a meager wage of $4 a ton.
10:14
Another spot that's known for its therapeutic salt is the Dead Sea, which lies landlocked between
10:20
Israel and Jordan.
10:22
For centuries, tourists have visited, seeking cures for skin diseases.
10:27
But the Dead Sea is also teeming with other minerals, like magnesium and potash, which is
10:33
a type of potassium-rich salt often used as a fertilizer.
10:37
The process for harvesting these minerals is mechanized, as companies use techniques like
10:43
dredging and modern plants refine millions of tons every year.
10:50
Meanwhile, here at La Croze, miners are facing obstacles to growing their business.
10:58
The climate crisis is bringing more rain to the region every year.
11:03
Salt collectors were hit hardest in 2022, when flooding breached the lake's banks.
11:10
Water started streaming in from new channels, diluting the lake's salinity and its signature
11:15
pink color.
11:16
And all these marigots and these courdots are, in a natural way,
11:22
drained, if you like, and following the topography, to La Croze.
11:28
We first visited the lake in 2024, two years after the floods, when it still looked muddy.
11:35
We went back in 2025, and it had finally regained its pink color.
11:41
That's what attracts visitors from all around the world.
11:46
But tourism has been a blessing and a curse to this lake.
11:51
Removal of nearby dunes to make way for hotels and vacation homes has caused the lake to erode.
11:58
Many of these developments don't have a proper sewage system, so they dump untreated waste in here.
12:05
That's elevating nitrate levels in the water, sometimes even contaminating the salt.
12:11
Scientists worry that if these salt crusts become unusable and aren't extracted, they could fill up this depression.
12:20
And within a few years, La Croze could disappear.
12:25
While there are virtually no living creatures inside the lake, it's still important for surrounding ecosystems and birds.
12:33
Now, environmentalists are pushing for it to be designated as a UNESCO heritage site to protect its biodiversity.
12:43
While La Croze is still around, Baba continues to work here day in and day out.
12:49
His family lives in the neighboring country of Mali, which is where he's from.
12:54
But he's found community among the local families that live nearby.
13:00
Spending time with them is his only outlet after a long day's work.
13:06
It's the God who will do everything.
13:09
The man is scared of what he's going to do.
13:12
It's a beautiful place to do it.
13:15
This is healing time with the Mother of Mali.
13:18
The name is the name is the name of Mali.
13:24
Who is the name of Mali.
13:26
He's given the name of Mali.
13:29
The name is the name of Mali.
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