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S1 E5 – Locals Welcome 🌍🤝
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00:00This is one of the many places my Filipino friends in high school brought me to share a laugh and lots of delicious food.
00:13Lumpia, the iconic Filipino snack.
00:16But Filipino food is so much more than this crunchy spring roll.
00:19And I'm off to find out why it's finally getting the credit it deserves.
00:26I'm Suresh Das.
00:27I've spent my career writing about the local favorites that make Canada's food scene truly unique.
00:33I believe every bite tells a story.
00:35Now, I want to share those stories with you.
00:45Toronto is home to a wide variety of cuisines from all over Asia.
00:49But one that doesn't always get the same amount of attention is Filipino food.
00:53Canada has one of the largest Filipino populations outside of the Philippines.
00:58And a large concentration are in Toronto.
01:01Unlike other cuisines in the city, Filipino food hasn't always gotten outside recognition, as the community traditionally did most of its cooking at home.
01:08In high school, the majority of the kids that were in my grade were from the Philippines.
01:14When you get invited to your friends' houses, the feasts at home, the way it was cooked, the way it was shared, always from a very nurturing, caring perspective.
01:23In my opinion, Filipino food culture has been overlooked.
01:29But that's changing.
01:31Today, I'm on a journey to learn more about the roots of Filipino cuisine in Canada.
01:35And to see how a new generation is transforming the food they grew up with.
01:39And finally giving Filipino food its moment in the spotlight.
01:41I'm starting in a neighborhood that's pretty unique to Toronto, with just the right person.
01:52Hey, already eating.
01:54I got a head start.
01:55Good to see you, man.
01:56I'm excited for this.
01:57I know.
01:58The historically Jewish neighborhood at the corner of Bathurst and Wilson has become one of the only little Manilas in North America.
02:06It's got a little bit of everything.
02:07You've got the bakery.
02:08I mean, you even have somewhere to send money back home, which is a big part of our culture.
02:12Right.
02:13But everything you can possibly want is actually on this corner.
02:16Jesse Aceto is an old friend, and he's been my guide to Filipino food and culture for years.
02:21And today, he's introducing me to the place that connects people from every corner of the Philippines.
02:27This is the landing place for so many Filipinos in the 80s and 90s.
02:3230,000, 40,000 moved here as live-in caregivers and sponsored their families to come here, which, you know, over time now became Little Manila.
02:43Right.
02:44By the 2010s, this area had the highest concentration of Filipinos in Canada, with restaurants making traditional dishes for the local community.
02:52What are we doing today, Jesse?
02:54Inviting you to my parents' anniversary.
02:57It's going to be a great time, and it's Kamaian Feast.
02:59Oh.
03:00It's such a fun experience.
03:01So much food to pick from.
03:03Lechon, of course.
03:04Everything.
03:05Are we talking like a whole pig?
03:06A whole pig.
03:07I can't wait.
03:08The Kamaian Feast is the quintessential Filipino celebration with a long history, and it's typically reserved for special occasions.
03:16This is the spot they're famous for their lechon.
03:19They're known for it.
03:19Yes.
03:19The centerpiece of a Kamaian Feast is lechon, whole-suckling pig, slow-roasted until the meat is juicy and the skin is shatteringly crisp.
03:34Thank you so much, Ate.
03:36Thank you.
03:37Yes, Wilson.
03:38Hi, welcome.
03:38How are you doing?
03:39Welcome to Wilson's House of Lechon.
03:41Wow.
03:41Smells amazing in here.
03:42My mouth is salivating right now.
03:44That's how we invite you in.
03:45Yeah, seriously.
03:46Yeah, through your nose.
03:47They got us.
03:48They got us.
03:48Wilson Martinito and his daughter, JB, have been making some of the community's favorite classic dishes for years using unique recipes from their home island of Cebu.
03:57We're here for the lechon, but we've got to try some of this bread.
04:05Here we go.
04:06Thank you.
04:06Oh, yeah.
04:07Look at this.
04:08That smells amazing.
04:09Oh, thank you.
04:10Liempo is Filipino-style pork belly.
04:13It's what caught my eye cooking outside.
04:15Wilson's is soaked for hours in a citrusy house marinade and then grilled to perfection over coals.
04:21Oh, it's beautiful, really delicate and soft, but it's got that nice little thin crust around it, right?
04:29I can't wait for this feast.
04:30You know, we've got to bring lechon.
04:32I mean, it's not a Filipino party without it.
04:35Lechon here is very authentic style, the way how we make the lechon, how we cook the lechon, and of course, the taste.
04:42Eating lechon is like a ticket to Cebu City, where we're from.
04:45We want to bring what we did there in Cebu and bring it for the people here in Toronto.
04:51How long does it normally take you to make a whole animal for us?
04:53Approximately four hours.
04:57First, we've got to put this salt.
05:00You need to put the salt all over the meat to balance all the taste of the lechon.
05:05Garlic, green onion leaf, red pepper, and then the bay leaf.
05:16I got it recipe from my family.
05:19The lemongrass, yes, it makes the aroma for the meat smell so good after we're cooking.
05:28The next step, teaching on it.
05:30This is a noodle.
05:31I made it myself.
05:33Sewing the pig.
05:34It takes me like 20 minutes, and cook it like minimum three hours.
05:43Put the suya sauce right now.
05:45Give the pig a good shatsu massage.
05:49It makes the skin like crispy, and makes the skin taste so yummy.
05:55You will see a lot of Filipino coming here if they feel homesick in one.
06:04I'll catch up with Jesse again later for the Kamayan Feast.
06:10But first, I'm heading to Scarborough, to a place I've been visiting for years.
06:15Coffee Inn.
06:15Owners Jean and Eric Janinez got their start here through the federal live-in caregiver program.
06:20In 2005, during one of the biggest spikes of Filipino immigration to Canada, they opened a restaurant to serve their rapidly-growing community.
06:29They renovated a small coffee shop, keeping its old name, but transforming the menu to serve Filipino specialties for their nostalgic customers.
06:40Is that for years to go?
06:42All with the help of their kids, Jared and Erica.
06:45Thank you.
06:46Have a good day.
06:47If you want to understand Filipino food, this is a perfect place to start.
06:51Eric makes one of my favorite breakfasts anywhere.
06:54And it's a dish most Canadians haven't heard of.
06:57Morning, Erica.
06:58We know what I came here for.
06:59Of course.
06:59Bachoy.
07:00Bachoy.
07:00Yes, please.
07:01Thank you.
07:02Bachoy is a soup from Eric's hometown of Iloilo City.
07:07It's a mixture of Chinese and Southeast Asian influences that speaks to the diversity of Filipino cuisine.
07:14Hey, how are you?
07:15Good, Eric.
07:16Eric and I have become friends over many bowls of bachoy.
07:19It's the best part of my day.
07:20Yeah.
07:21Well, the soup, but also to be able to sit down with you.
07:23Yeah, I know.
07:23We've done this several times now.
07:25I know.
07:25I'm always sitting here alone, and then you always join me.
07:28I hope you're going to like the bachoy.
07:29I can't wait to dig into this.
07:32So many different flavors in there.
07:38Ramen is a little porky, but it's even more porkier, more intense.
07:41It's so good.
07:43Why is this soup so special to you?
07:45Mostly because we're done in there.
07:48Almost like ramen.
07:51This is one of those dishes where you can tell it's arriving before you see it because of the aromatics that waft from the kitchen.
07:56It's a very popular dish in Iloilo City, but here in Canada, it's only starting to gain cult status.
08:04I bring friends here, and they will tell me this is their favorite soup.
08:08Wow.
08:09Chefs, come here from downtown Toronto.
08:11You know this.
08:12Wow.
08:12I appreciate that.
08:13Yeah, they come here for your soup.
08:14Eric has been refining this recipe for 20 years, and in that time, Kofi Hinn has become a hub for the local Filipino community.
08:24Mostly 90% Filipino come to Kofi and to eat, to dine.
08:29Here, when they come here, we talk them our language.
08:33That's how we, you know, approach them.
08:37All the food that we cook is authentic Filipino food.
08:40That's why they keep coming back.
08:42Hi, Gene.
08:43How are you?
08:44It really feels like I'm walking into a family restaurant, but like what you're doing to me is really, really special.
08:51So I know Eric does all the pachoy, but you, you're the host.
08:55Yeah.
08:56I like to talk to the customers.
08:57They feel like they're at home.
09:01So, Gene, you have to tell me, how did you meet Eric?
09:05My first time that I met Eric at a birthday party with my friend, I said, that's my soulmate.
09:10Oh, really?
09:11Right.
09:11Love at first sight.
09:12Love at first sight.
09:14And then how did that evolve?
09:15What happened after that?
09:16I came here as a nanny.
09:18If you apply as a nanny or even you're a nurse back home, it's easy for you to come here.
09:26I don't know if you know this, but we came to Canada probably around the same time, like in the early 90s.
09:31I went to school in Scarborough and it was filled with a lot of Filipino people.
09:34And I met most of their moms who were caregivers.
09:37That's right.
09:38Yeah.
09:38And like it was just so obvious to see that nurturing caregiving quality.
09:42You could never walk into a Filipino home and not be fed until your stomach explodes.
09:49That's our tradition.
09:50That's why the Filipino like the hospitality and work in health care.
09:54Coming here and having the bachoy that, you know, Eric makes, there's so much love that
09:58he puts into this.
09:59Yeah.
10:00Like there's caring in the soup and there's nurturing in the soup.
10:02Me and my husband is so excited to come here every day service because our customer, when
10:08they go out, they're full.
10:10They're satisfied.
10:11They're happy.
10:11Yeah.
10:12Satisfied.
10:13Yeah.
10:13Beautiful.
10:14From Coffee Inn's traditional fair in Scarborough, I'm making my way downtown to Toronto's
10:23upscale Rosedale neighborhood to visit Mineral, one of many new Toronto restaurants putting
10:28a modern spin on classic Filipino food.
10:30It's head chef, Danny Cancino, also shares my love for Eric Spichoy.
10:39It's second generation chefs like him that are one of the reasons Filipino food is having
10:43a moment.
10:47I couldn't come here on my own though.
10:49So I've invited another second generation talent doing her part to bring her culture
10:52mainstream.
10:54Comedian, actor, and host of the great Canadian baking show, Anne Pornet.
10:58Suresh.
11:00How are you?
11:02This is a fancy place, Suresh.
11:04It's got style.
11:05Oh, it's got riz.
11:07I can't wait.
11:16Chef Danny Cancino's food at Mineral is a love letter to the traditional foods of the
11:207,000 plus islands of the Philippines.
11:25And it's also his unique take for a new generation.
11:29From my childhood, my parents don't go out for Filipino food because they're like, why
11:34would we go out when we can make it the way we want it to?
11:36The reason why we're at Mineral is because I think there's something exciting happening
11:40here that kind of complements mom's cooking at home.
11:45Oh, here's Danny.
11:46Good to see you.
11:46Pleasure.
11:47I'm Danny, chef here at Mineral.
11:48So Danny, this is Anne's first time.
11:50So excited.
11:51So excited.
11:52Suresh has been talking so much about it.
11:53At Mineral here, we like to pretend we're the 7,642nd island here.
11:58And how long have you been cooking for, professionally?
12:0120 years at least right now.
12:02I was going to go into classical music originally.
12:05Really?
12:06Yeah.
12:06Chose the two jobs to upset Filipino parents.
12:09I was about to say, I was like, hold on.
12:10So what were they more mad at, the music or the food?
12:13The food.
12:14Oh my God.
12:15Danny's story is so common for Canadians who grew up in immigrant families.
12:19And for Anne and I, it strikes a deep chord.
12:22Hi, mom and dad.
12:23I want to be the judge of the Canadian baking show.
12:26Honestly?
12:26Well, hi, mom and dad.
12:27I'm going to be a food writer and I'm going to leave technology.
12:30You're going to leave biosciences.
12:32Yeah.
12:32And we're going to pursue this dream.
12:34And they both look at you and like clock their heads and go like, huh?
12:37Okay.
12:37Like, this is what we came here for?
12:39Yes.
12:39My dad finally picked up the phone and called me and told me that he was proud of me
12:43when he saw my face in a newspaper in Toronto.
12:46There was that exact moment for me when they're like, wow, our daughter's on a billboard.
12:52Like, there's some things you can't explain, but you can show.
12:58As Danny prepares the first dish, it's clear he has some incredible things to show as well.
13:02Our first course is kini lao, a dish similar to ceviche, where seafood is cooked using acid,
13:09typically a combination of vinegar and citrus juice.
13:12I definitely learned my palate through my family growing up in the Philippines.
13:18We have puff crab chip on the very bottom, coconut avocado mousse,
13:21BC albacore tuna loin, marinated in passion fruit, then calamansi citrus, lots of ginger and fish sauce.
13:27On top, we have some watermelon radish, cured salmon roe, also from BC.
13:33Danny's version comes with a little extra flair.
13:40Okay.
13:40Yeah, yeah, yeah.
13:41Okay.
13:42Danny's not kidding around.
13:44It's far from the ocean breeze in Palawan, where kini lao is served everywhere.
13:49I feel like I'm on a beach right now.
13:52Oh my gosh.
14:02It's so vibrant, and that calamansi just rounds everything for me.
14:05This is unbelievable.
14:06It's creamy, it's salty, it's sour, it's briny.
14:12Oh, it's so lovely.
14:14Danny's cooking is all about textures.
14:16And the next dish continues to take things to another level.
14:17And the next dish continues to take things to another level, it's a grown-up version of every Filipino kid's favorite sweet treat, ensaimata.
14:24For this brioche we make in-house every day, it's triple-proof, so it'll be nice and fluffy, buttery, almost croissant-like when we pull it.
14:31On top, aged white cheddar, pojicha tea-infused honey.
14:39On the side there, we have a whipped porcini and truffle butter.
14:43On the top right, duck breast from Hudson Valley in Quebec.
14:45We call it Tocino, they do a very good take on it at Coffee Inn as well.
14:49Wow, ensaimata is like as ubiquitous as anything.
14:53It's a humble bread.
14:54I don't think I've had the experience yet of something that is so humble elevated to this degree.
15:02Oh, it's so soft.
15:03It's so soft, it's like pillowy.
15:09That porcini butter with the truffle, mmm, takes you from sea to land.
15:14It's taken me to my dreams, Suresh.
15:18No cuisine of any country is a monolith, but when it comes to the Philippines, there's so much going on.
15:23Exactly. Japanese food is not just sushi, and Filipino food is not just lumpia, it's not just sinigang, it can be so much more.
15:30If this is where Filipino food is headed, I'm so proud.
15:37After a taste of modern Filipino food, it's time to meet up with Jesse again in Little Manila
15:42to get what we need for the Khmeran feast.
15:45Our first stop is to get the rice inside.
15:48For that, we're going to Kabbalan Restaurant, a place that specializes in traditional Khmeran dishes.
15:53We have a order for a Khmeran feast, two boxes.
16:01I will check it for you, okay?
16:02Thank you so much.
16:03What are some really important things that you need at the table?
16:07It's not a Filipino meal without rice.
16:09You absolutely need the rice.
16:11The garlic rice.
16:11The garlic rice.
16:12Yeah, but there's so many different textures, so many different types of food.
16:15Yeah.
16:15I mean, you can go from barbecue skewers to a fish, a sweet, savory, everything.
16:20Would you say for a proper Khmeran feast, at least 12 items?
16:24Oh, yeah, easily.
16:25Easily.
16:25Yeah.
16:25Yeah, I think you probably do double that.
16:28There we go.
16:29Harry's your back.
16:30Wonderful.
16:30Thank you so much.
16:31Can't wait for this, man.
16:33I know.
16:33This is going to be good.
16:34Okay, so I'll start this way.
16:44Ah, the smell of the banana leaves.
16:46I know.
16:47It's so good.
16:48It's just the perfect setup for a Khmeran.
16:52After delivering the rice and sides, it's time to pick up the centerpiece, Wilson's Lechon.
16:59Let's do this.
17:02Okay.
17:02Oh, this is impressive.
17:10Oh, thank you.
17:11One thing that I'm smelling right away is the lemongrass.
17:13I can't wait to see how this tastes at the Khmeran feast.
17:16It looks amazing.
17:17Pull the chair, man.
17:17Let's just do that.
17:18A feast for two?
17:20Okay, good to go.
17:21Wilson, you're the best.
17:22You got it?
17:23Okay.
17:24Enjoy.
17:25Abby.
17:29Perfect, man.
17:30Okay.
17:31Make in there.
17:32Oh, there's way more limpia than I thought.
17:34Ooh, yum.
17:36Got to get on this side.
17:40The pig has arrived.
17:43Here we go.
17:44Let's do it.
17:45You got ice.
17:46Whoa, whoa, whoa.
17:47Once the Lechon arrives, Jesse's dad, Somi, and Tita Rosa get to work carving up the meat.
17:54Okay, these are pros.
17:55They've done this before, like, so many times.
17:57You can tell.
17:58Oh, my goodness.
17:59Look, all that lemongrass.
18:03Let's go.
18:04Oh, my goodness.
18:06Thank you.
18:07Oh, my goodness.
18:08Thank you.
18:09This looks amazing.
18:10This is a green rye from me.
18:11Yes.
18:12Oh, yeah.
18:13Oh, yeah.
18:15Amazing.
18:16Oh, yeah.
18:16Thank you, guys.
18:19That is what I'm talking about.
18:20This is incredible.
18:21This is, like, the best spread I've ever seen.
18:23Okay.
18:23You know the food is good when it's quiet.
18:36Yeah.
18:37It's a time-honored tradition going back centuries.
18:41No cutlery or dishes are required.
18:43In Tagalog, the word kamayin means with the hands, and that's how we enjoy this feast.
18:48For every Filipinos you ask about kamayin, they'll always share with you their memories that they had.
18:58It reminds me of my mother's hand when I was growing up.
19:03From my mother's hand to my mouth, you know, it's very comforting.
19:07That's a beautiful memory of your mom, Peter.
19:09Yeah.
19:10Even when we look back now, 10 years from now, we will remember today, enjoying each other's company.
19:16Absolutely, yeah.
19:18What's your favorite part so far?
19:21You know what?
19:21I'm, like, a sucker for the garlic rice.
19:23Oh, yeah.
19:24And I also like the lumpia with the vinegar.
19:26Mm-hmm.
19:27Now that it's been flavored with the chili, it's also working really well for me.
19:30The combination of flavors and textures are endless, and every bite is unique.
19:35But the lachon is the star of the show.
19:37Skin first for me.
19:38You're going to go skin first?
19:39Skin first, yeah.
19:40Mm.
19:43That skin is so wonderful.
19:44It's, like, got that sort of, like, charcoal-y sort of, like, essence to it.
19:48Mm-hmm.
19:49Yeah, that's what I want.
19:49Yeah, absolutely.
19:52You know, it's really special to enjoy this meal with you and your family.
19:56Is this culture being preserved?
19:57I mean, like, you're a dad, you've got young kids.
20:00Are we going to be able to hold on to this and then also see new versions of it?
20:03I think in the recent, you know, last three, four, five years, Filipino cuisine has finally, you know, got some time in the spotlight.
20:12And I think as a result of that, more people know about this than ever.
20:16The most beautiful thing about this is there's no cell phones.
20:21There are no cell phones.
20:22That's the biggest positive thing about the client piece.
20:24There are no phones on the table.
20:25It's like the human connection of this piece.
20:28Mm-hmm.
20:28No distractions.
20:30You know, I don't, I actually don't know if there's any other meal like that.
20:34Well, I think it's that positive side effect of eating with your hands, that you're fully committed to it.
20:38There's an intimacy that, you know, we kind of lack.
20:41It's a way of community as well, because there is love there.
20:46We're all here because of that love, that connection that we have with each other.
20:52This Kamayan feast is a testament to the journey Filipino food in Canada has taken.
20:57It's a community-focused tradition brought here by the first generation,
21:01one that second-generation kids like Jesse are carrying forward and are excited to share.
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