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Transcript
00:00Hawksville Heights, Hawksville Heights, do you copy?
00:05We copy.
00:06Hatchlings are emerging now.
00:10We'll be right there.
00:13Yeah, but you're us.
00:14We will definitely get lost.
00:16So, the crew has radioed saying that there is baby turtles this way.
00:25Looks like they're just resting at the surface with their little heads poking out.
00:29If they all decide to go, it could be within five to ten minutes that they're all in the
00:34water.
00:35I've never seen this before.
00:36I mean, you see it on the telly.
00:37Yeah.
00:38Don't you?
00:39Not in real life.
00:40They're flatbacks, they're flatbacks for sure.
00:50Look at all the little heads poking out.
00:54What's really special about this moment is these species only nest in Australia.
00:58They're nowhere else in the world.
01:00So we have everything they need for their entire life cycle.
01:03Marine scientist Sarah MacDonald and I are watching tiny flatback turtles struggle through
01:09the first hurdle of their secretive life.
01:13Getting from the buried egg to the open air can take over a week of digging.
01:17Getting to the surface from the bottom of the nest is one challenge and the next is getting
01:23to the water.
01:24Well, I can literally hear a predator.
01:27Mm-hmm.
01:28I can hear a silver gull just behind us.
01:32When you see them at this size and especially knowing that their shell is still soft, it
01:39really drives home how vulnerable they are.
01:42I think I can see maybe five in front of me right now.
01:46The likelihood is that they won't survive to adulthood.
01:51But the cover of darkness offers some protection, especially for the visual predators, so that's
01:56a good time to go.
01:58Suddenly, the hatchlings make a break for it.
02:04Look, they're going like the clappers.
02:06Oh my goodness, look at these little flippers.
02:11Did you see it go through the footprint?
02:14Ah!
02:15That's how small they are.
02:17Ah!
02:18They're going so fast on this wet sand.
02:24It looks like a wind-up toy, but it's going to the open ocean.
02:28These are the very first steps in an unusually perilous journey to adulthood.
02:33Oh my god, there's a big crab!
02:36As few as one in 10,000 of these hatchlings will survive.
02:43I just feel like I need to walk in between that little baby and that crab.
02:46Oh, it's almost there, it's almost there!
02:56That one made it.
03:01Incredible!
03:02But of course, that's just the first hurdle for these little turtles.
03:04They've got to grow up big.
03:07And actually, they're just about to go into a period that we know basically nothing about.
03:13It's about to go into a period of time.
03:15It's about to go into a period of time.
03:17It's about to go into a period of time.
03:18As a nature journalist, I spend a lot of time observing wildlife from behind my binoculars.
03:30But not this time.
03:31That's the head.
03:32That's the head.
03:33It's huge!
03:34In this series, I'm getting up close and personal.
03:37Oh my god.
03:40No matter how deadly the animal.
03:43Oh!
03:44That's going to be your only chance.
03:46And it's not just for fun.
03:49Seeing animals like this is absolutely incredible.
03:55I'll be joining scientists on location as they try to gain a deeper understanding of animals.
04:00Brilliant.
04:01That's fantastic.
04:02They all think we know.
04:03Oh.
04:04Who's trying to bite?
04:05And this time, it's turtles.
04:08They are the quirky characters of the sea that have outlived the dinosaurs.
04:14But their story is far more complex and precarious than meets the eye.
04:19Yep.
04:20Three, two, one.
04:22And today, research is revealing fresh insights into their extraordinary and mysterious lives.
04:29This is like her last act of maternal care.
04:36I'm Dr. Anne Jones and things are about to get wild.
04:52Sometimes I think that the end of the earth is a phrase that gets over you.
04:58But I truly feel like I have just dropped off the edge of Australia.
05:05I'm on my way to Rosemary Island, part of the Dampier Archipelago off the coast of Western Australia.
05:13One of the world's most significant breeding sanctuaries for sea turtles.
05:17They're extremely secretive creatures.
05:24They spend most of their time under water.
05:26And when they're doing that, we almost have no idea where they're going.
05:30They are the epitome of an animal with a secret life far away from humans.
05:36For three days, I'll be joining a team of scientists and volunteers to get hands-on tagging and studying different species of turtle.
05:51Our main mission is to examine the nests of the critically endangered hawksbill turtle to better understand what threats they might face in the future.
06:04I can see the shipping container.
06:11Welcome to Anna's Bay.
06:13To Anna's Bay.
06:14Yeah.
06:15We were told to only bring the essentials.
06:18I'm pretty sure these are filled with all the hairdryers for the film crew.
06:23Soft under foot.
06:33Oh, that water's nice there.
06:36This is so we build empathy with the turtles.
06:38Something like that, yeah.
06:40These turtle nests.
06:41Yes, this is the moon craters.
06:44So all of these holes are the end of a nest.
06:47So the eggs aren't in the holes, they're in the mounds around there.
06:50But this is beautiful Rosemary Beach 6.
06:53Well, that was steeper than I expected.
06:56If I fall into one of these turtle craters and die, tell my mother I loved her.
07:05Do science, they say.
07:08With the kit finally unloaded, marine biologist Kat Bates shows me around the campsite.
07:15I'm getting the toilet to her.
07:21We even have a toilet roll holder.
07:24Ta-da!
07:27I could get used to this.
07:29Comfy.
07:35This is what it's like trying to wrestle a squid, these things.
07:40Need some help?
07:42Yeah, before I die.
07:44You did pretty well.
07:45You're halfway.
07:46But as much as I love camping, I am getting hot and bothered.
07:51It's currently 40 degrees in the first week of January.
07:55Whose idea was this?
07:57So why exactly are we here in the peak of summer?
08:00Like, couldn't I have come in the peak of winter?
08:03You absolutely could have, but you wouldn't see any turtles.
08:06Right, so what do we expect the turtles will be doing?
08:09So we're at a kind of overlap period at the moment.
08:11The hawksbill turtles, which is why we're here, they lay usually around October.
08:15But we're still going to get a few now and we're going to get the hatchlings now.
08:18But now is mainly the prime season for flatbacks and green sea turtles.
08:21So different species have different times.
08:24Six of the world's seven species of sea turtle live around Australia.
08:29I can see turtle tracks.
08:31And half of those species nest on these beaches.
08:35So we'll start down this end and then we'll just basically walk along there.
08:39Our first research task is to prepare for the turtles' evening commute.
08:44I have to say, wasn't expecting having to drag a picket along.
08:51So what are we actually doing?
08:53We are dragging a line across the sand.
08:56So in the morning when we do our track counts, we can see if any new tracks have crossed the line.
09:01And that means a new turtle has come up that night.
09:03Get a lot of data from a very simple thing.
09:06Over a two-week period at peak season, the team can record over 1,000 tracks the turtles have made as they come up on the beach to dig their nests.
09:19And the nest digging is a way more complicated process than you might expect.
09:25So they're going to use their front flippers and their back flippers and dig a really big hole.
09:30After that, she's going to use her back flippers to what we call chamber.
09:33And that's where she literally scoops out, very dextrous, and she scoops out her egg chamber.
09:38Then she'll cover them up again with her back flippers.
09:40She'll pat them down.
09:42Once she's finished doing that, then she'll start misting.
09:44And then it's pretty funny.
09:45They just get all their flippers and they're throwing sand and they're covering the nest to try and camouflage it basically,
09:50so predators can't find it.
09:52It's so cool.
09:53So they'll cover their tracks or as much as they can.
09:55Absolutely.
09:56Most sea turtles lay a clutch of 80 to 180 eggs per nest, and they do that at least twice a season.
10:09I just hope that tonight is one of those nights that we get to see big live adult turtles up at their nests.
10:23Before the sun has even set, it seems our first commuter is getting a head start on the evening rush.
10:30What's happening?
10:31It's a flatback.
10:32A mum, she's come up onto the beach, her nest.
10:37Look, that's her up there, right near the vegetation.
10:45Unlike other species, flatbacks don't migrate long distances, nesting only on home turf in Australia.
10:51It's important not to disturb her, so Kat creeps up to assess what stage she might be at.
11:06The sprays of sand go like at least two and a half metres.
11:11Like, she gets a really good flipper full of sand and pips it.
11:16What do you think's happening?
11:25I think she might still be body pitting.
11:31So, when you say body pitting, she's like digging a little test.
11:35That's right, yeah.
11:36So, she's flicking some sand to see if it's a suitable area to lay her eggs.
11:43I, like, am unexpectedly extremely emotional.
11:46Oh, good!
11:47You might get to see if they're some babies.
11:49She's just so pretty.
11:52Flatbacks are a very pretty species.
11:54She's doing an amazing job.
12:01It can take over an hour to pick the best spot.
12:06This is like her last act of maternal care is selecting the best spot that she possibly can to put her eggs in.
12:15So, I want to give her air space so she can make the best choice.
12:18So, we've been a bit sneaky and we've got the drone up so that we can look right down at what she's doing and she's definitely making progress.
12:31She looks like a very oddly shaped rhythmic gymnast.
12:38You know, like the arcs of sand are just glorious coming out from her flippers.
12:43So, we might be able to see her laying some eggs a little bit later tonight.
12:50Under the cover of darkness, her mammoth efforts pay off.
13:05It's joyful to see it.
13:08It's the start of a whole new clutch, a whole new journey.
13:21Three, two, one.
13:23The nutrient rich reefs here in the Dampia Peninsula offer the perfect environment for juvenile turtles to grow.
13:46That is, if they can avoid the predators.
13:53But it's not the sharks that pose the greatest threat.
13:59Alongside poaching and plastic pollution, it's the warming climate.
14:08Temperature is the key to the turtle life cycle.
14:11It influences everything they do, from migration to nesting and more.
14:17And to investigate the impact rising temperatures might be having on the turtles and their eggs.
14:28I'll get you digging in and you can pass me up the eggs.
14:31The team are digging up the old nests of their key research subjects.
14:36The critically endangered hawksbill turtles.
14:39So we're doing essentially a nest post-mortem.
14:45Yeah.
14:46We're seeing how many survived.
14:47These are our empty eggshells.
14:49These are the ones that have hatched.
14:50And then we have to open up all the rotting ones and find out what stage of development they're at.
14:55I'm glad we've got gloves on.
14:56Yes.
14:57Our forensic examination uncovers everything from half-formed embryos to full-term hatchlings that never made it out of the nest.
15:08But it's risky work.
15:10That's a rotten egg.
15:15I just got the director.
15:20I'm glad I'm not the only one getting covered in goop for science.
15:27The average hatching rate for a nest is 52%.
15:31But that is the average.
15:34Sometimes it can be significantly lower.
15:37What are the factors that go into having a really successful nest?
15:42So the position where the nest is placed, if it's below the high water line, it's probably going to get inundated with water a lot more.
15:49But things like temperature, if it's too hot, they'll all die.
15:53And if it's too cold, they won't make it either.
15:55The team measure the temperature of the sand.
15:58Even the slightest change could have surprising consequences for the hatchlings.
16:06Is male and female not defined by the parents?
16:10No, it's definitely done by temperature.
16:13Warmer temperatures are going to produce females and cooler temperatures will produce males.
16:18And what can happen in the one clutch, the top half, which is warmer from the sunlight, they're going to be the females.
16:24And then the bottom of the clutch, which is deeper, they don't have access to as much warmth.
16:28That's just only going to be a degree or a little bit cooler.
16:31They'll be your males at the bottom.
16:33For hawksbills, around 30 degrees is the perfect recipe, producing a 50-50 ratio of females to males in the nest.
16:4193 plus 2 plus 1.
16:45But as little as 3 degrees more could devastate the population.
16:50So if the world does continue to get hotter, what does it mean for these turtles?
16:56We could potentially see more females being born.
16:59Or potentially whole clutches being wiped out.
17:01That's really worrying.
17:03Because if the whole season gets wiped out, there are no mature turtles.
17:09That's right.
17:10So that's why these long-term monitoring programs are so important.
17:13Because like you just said, they don't reach sexual maturity to 15, 20 years old.
17:17So what we're seeing today, we won't actually see the impacts of that for another 20 years to come.
17:22The hatchlings that didn't make it epitomise how delicate and dangerous a sea turtle's life is.
17:30But as we reach the end of this clutch...
17:33Ooh!
17:34Ooh, what happened?
17:36Aww.
17:37I think it's alive.
17:39It's alive.
17:41Oh, it's moving.
17:43So he's tried really hard to make it out of the clutch.
17:46Maybe it was too damp.
17:48We've had some pretty big rainfall the last couple of weeks.
17:51So he must be pretty exhausted.
17:53Look at that.
17:56Ooh, he's got a bit of...
17:57Oh, it's good!
17:58This little one.
17:59Hello.
18:00So this is a hawk's bill?
18:01It is a hawk's bill.
18:02I can see it's a little snubby...
18:04You can see his little hawk, can you?
18:05Well, you can see a little snubby...
18:06Little bill?
18:07Yeah.
18:08Little mate.
18:09I think they look like little prehistoric dinosaurs compared to the other species.
18:13They absolutely do.
18:14And it's got the little ridges.
18:16Yeah.
18:17It gives it that impression.
18:18It does, yeah.
18:19Hatchlings need to dig their way up out of almost half a metre of sand.
18:27And this little one has been down there longer than most.
18:31So, to give it a fighting chance, Kat suggests that, on this occasion, we take it towards the
18:37shoreline for release.
18:39So, this is probably some of the most precious cargo in Australia because it is a critically
18:45endangered turtle.
18:46It's thought that there's less than 10,000 adult breeding females.
18:50So, if this one can survive to adulthood, it could be critical to the survival of the species.
18:57So, we'll just put them down here.
19:00They need to break their way to the water themselves.
19:02It stretches out their lungs and clears all the mucus from it.
19:05And it also helps them home in on this is their home.
19:09There you go.
19:10Good turtle.
19:11Yes.
19:12I feel like a proud mother.
19:16Isn't it so cool?
19:17Like it literally was buried minutes ago.
19:18That is just wild.
19:19Yes.
19:20Yes.
19:21I feel like a proud mother.
19:23So adorable.
19:38Hatchlings can detect the Earth's magnetic field and use it to create a GPS-like map that
19:59they can follow home when they're ready to nest.
20:02But it can take up to 15 years for a turtle to mature.
20:13DSP2.
20:14So, if scientists are to determine whether they survive to breeding age, their research
20:20must span decades.
20:26And this requires the work of some very dedicated volunteers.
20:30Oh my God.
20:31I know.
20:32There's half a cow in there.
20:33There is half a cow in there.
20:38And I think we've got sausages.
20:39Yeah, there's sausages too.
20:40How many are we feeding here?
20:43It's my last night on the island and I'm on dinner duty with Anna Wittenbergs.
20:50At 77, she's the fairy godmother of turtles and has been tagging them out here for over
20:5740 years.
20:59So, tell me, how long have you been coming to Rosemary Island?
21:04Since the 80s, Anne.
21:05You know, you come the end of October and you're absolutely pooped and you think, oh,
21:09that's it, I'm not going to come out here again.
21:11But come July, you think, oh, it wasn't so bad after all.
21:14I might just give it another go.
21:17And there you go.
21:19But it gets you in.
21:20As I said, the more you know, the more you realise you don't know and the more you want
21:24to know about turtles.
21:26So, what was it like here?
21:28I didn't have the hut here.
21:30There wasn't anything here at all.
21:32And you'd bring a little tent or...?
21:35No.
21:36A bit of canvas and a sleeping bag.
21:39I had two flares with me and that was it.
21:44Did you take any safety measures?
21:47No.
21:48When you're young like that, you're invincible, aren't you?
21:51No.
21:55You know, one of the most exciting things for me is to see turtles that have got old tags
22:00on them and you can look up the database and see when the turtles was tagged, what year
22:06and who by.
22:07So, like old friends, ones that you've tagged...
22:10Yes.
22:11...come back around?
22:12I know.
22:13And the tag is this time...
22:14They said to me, Annie, you know those turtles you've tagged so many years ago?
22:19Yes.
22:20Well, the hatchlings would have hatched by now.
22:23Yeah.
22:24And what you're seeing is them coming back again.
22:26It's incredible.
22:27Yes, I know.
22:28I think, oh, gosh, that shows my age.
22:31But not everything on the island has stayed the same.
22:35And on a dark night, it was dark.
22:37You couldn't see a thing.
22:39Mm.
22:40But that's increased over the years with industry.
22:43Yeah.
22:44And then, of course, with the shipping out here as well.
22:47Shipping in the port of Dampier has more than tripled since the 1980s.
22:53It's thought the artificial light can disorientate hatchlings, prolonging their already hazardous
23:00journey to sea.
23:02But it's hard to say yet what effect this might have on this population.
23:08Yeah.
23:09Good job, guys.
23:14There you go, radio.
23:15I have just woken up for the day.
23:30And literally outside my swag is a huge green turtle.
23:49I'd happily just watch her head back out to sea that Cat arrives and wants to tag this
24:00turtle for their ongoing studies.
24:01Well, good morning.
24:02Morning.
24:03Does that mean we've got to catch it before it goes in the water?
24:05That's okay.
24:06She's slow.
24:07She's taking her time.
24:08And I'm going to help, or at least try to.
24:10So we'll just sneak up behind her and set our stuff down and get things ready.
24:13The team have tagged over 5,700 female turtles like this since the program began almost four
24:21decades ago.
24:22Three, three, two, three, zero.
24:24The data shows that 60% of them have returned at least once to lay their eggs.
24:30The more you touch her, the more she's going to move.
24:33And their whole shell is sensitive as well.
24:35So every time you touch the shell, she feels it.
24:37It's not just an outer layer.
24:39Like that is her.
24:40The skeleton is her.
24:45Endangered green turtles are the largest hard-shelled sea turtle in the world.
24:51So you're going to go behind her, you're going to slide your foot like under her flipper
24:54so that you can kind of keep it out.
25:00This female likely weighs over 150 kilograms.
25:08Oh my goodness, she's so strong.
25:10You can spread it out a little bit with your hand when you're ready to go.
25:12Yep.
25:13See how it spreads out?
25:14Yep.
25:19I do need the break balls.
25:21Placing a tag in the armpit of a moving flipper is clearly a skill I am struggling to master.
25:27Yeah, count it down.
25:28Can you do it?
25:29Three, two, one.
25:30Feel good.
25:31Yep.
25:32Let's go.
25:33Nice.
25:34Well done.
25:35As a backup, we place a second tag on her right flipper.
25:44Perfect.
25:45Right.
25:46Stay with her.
25:47How about you?
25:48Stay with her?
25:49Like I can.
25:50You're all right lady.
25:51She's incredibly strong.
25:52That's a wrestle.
25:53That's like a sumo wrestle, isn't it?
25:54She's strong.
25:55The greens are the strongest.
25:56Big mama.
25:57We take a biopsy for genetic analysis.
25:5890 degree angle straight.
25:59Yeah.
26:00Got some.
26:01Perfect.
26:02Oh my god.
26:03Which enables scientists to map the distribution of the turtle population.
26:17And to manage their habitats.
26:18Measuring tape.
26:19Oh.
26:20Just one last measurement before she heads off, taking cat with her.
26:24So just here.
26:25That little part there.
26:26Yep.
26:27And all the way across the top of the carapace to the very tip.
26:28Oh, look at the green.
26:299-5-2.
26:30Perfect.
26:31All right.
26:32That's it.
26:33All done.
26:34Say goodbye to your first green.
26:35See you later, little one.
26:36Leave a long life.
26:37Science is stressful.
26:39That was wild.
26:58That was wild.
27:01I'm not normally an outwardly anxious person, but yeah,
27:08but, yeah, I think you could probably see me shaking.
27:11And it's out of concern for the turtle.
27:14Knowing that I have to do everything quite quickly and efficiently
27:17so that she doesn't get stressed makes me into a klutz.
27:28It's been a very hot, very sandy few days on Rosemary Island,
27:32getting hands-on with sea turtles, and I've learned a lot.
27:39Turtles are physically way stronger than they look,
27:44but their very existence hangs in a tenuous balance.
27:49The future of sea turtles pivots on just a few degrees centigrade.
27:55And how that impacts these turtles
27:57is still something that we're unpacking as we go.
28:03Long-term data is like the roadmap
28:07of how these turtles are doing,
28:09and people like Anna are the cartographers
28:13that have mapped the landscape.
28:15Yep.
28:29Next time, it's dugongs!
28:32OK, this is a big thing now.
28:35Bye!
28:36Bye!
28:37Bye!
28:38Bye!
28:39Bye!
28:40Bye!
28:42Bye!