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Part of a longer #documentary, this video follows the creation of a brand new Graeme Murphy's ROMEO and JULIET through the design process of acclaimed fashion designer Akira Isogawa (video by Philippe Charluet). #akira #graememurphy #australiadance
Transcript
00:00They are actually hand embellished with customized sequins.
00:25Those sequins have got this bent edge.
00:29In fact, they are just plastic. It's very lightweight.
00:32And they have been boiled in hot water.
00:37And they nearly got melted.
00:41You know, in fact, some of them are actually nearly gone.
00:44But I quite like the way that actually the fact they're custom made.
00:48And then the colors are all slightly different.
00:52It gives actually certain character to this textile.
00:56My fascination with Akira came from a really undeveloped interest in fashion.
01:00I didn't have a huge interest in fashion.
01:03But I saw some of Akira's garments and I felt that they were more emotionally imbued with meaning than a lot of fashion objects are.
01:13And it was a beautiful relationship. It started with a work called Salome.
01:17And that was a huge learning curve for both of us because I had to learn to trust.
01:22Because choreographers are often control freaks about, you know,
01:25where are you going to cover up my choreography?
01:27What do you think you're doing, you know?
01:29So I had to find that moment or someone that I felt I could trust.
01:34That's supposed to be on the side for the leg.
01:37Yep.
01:38And then that's supposed to be a top and that's supposed to be a top.
01:41Okay.
01:42I come from designing fabric, really.
01:45That's what I enjoy most.
01:46You know, giving a concept.
01:48But the next step is usually working on textile.
01:52Adding colors, textures, embellishments such as adding sequins or beads.
01:57So that actually, like, you know, looks is a very modern and a new.
02:01That process itself is inspiring.
02:04And I get energized.
02:06That energy give me actually, yeah, to produce even more, further more.
02:11And that's what usually happens.
02:14So.
02:15Wow.
02:16Yeah.
02:17That's, I mean, it's not, you know, it's not nothing special about thread.
02:21Mm.
02:22Because it will be a lot of, um, flayed age.
02:24Yes.
02:25Flayed age organza.
02:26Yeah.
02:27This Romeo and Juliet production appear to be very, very big.
02:31There'll be actually more than 150 garments to be made for one production.
02:36So we have a lot to do.
02:38There are no, actually, shortcut by any means.
02:41And we quickly just wired this onto a headdress, onto it,
02:45because I thought then, at the moment it sits there.
02:49Like, just above a forehead.
02:50Yeah.
02:51Yeah.
02:52We need to make one for every dancer we can.
02:53Mm.
02:54You know, for only a couple of them.
02:55To Juliet.
02:56Yeah.
02:57Yeah.
02:58Yeah.
02:59Depending on.
03:00I don't know.
03:01It's two or three Juliet's actually.
03:02There's seven or eight, I think.
03:05Yeah.
03:06Seven Juliet's or eight Juliet's.
03:07Yeah, yeah.
03:08Oh, my gosh.
03:09Yeah, there's loads of them.
03:10Really?
03:11Yeah.
03:12Does it mean, actually, this dress needs to be duplicated seven by seven?
03:25Wow.
03:26The worst enemy is actually the time factor.
03:29The Australian Ballets in Melbourne.
03:30Oh, look.
03:31I mean, it's not like, you know, between Paris and Sydney.
03:35It's only Sydney and Melbourne.
03:37But still, we are dealing with each other in different cities, you know.
03:41Akira had to find out the difference between creating for somebody who would walk on a catwalk
03:48or into a salon or actually get down and dirty, roll on the floor and get thrown around.
03:55And he found a way to accommodate the violence that is dance, because it is the most violent art form.
04:02And fabric is the one thing that gets shredded when you're dealing with beautiful silks and beautiful fabrics.
04:08But he found solutions.
04:11One of the common links between the way we work is fluidity.
04:15His fabric and the way he creates with fabric doesn't have a rigidity.
04:21It always seems to have the possibility to do something more than just look good.
04:27In movement, it works fantastically.
04:30I do get inspired by movement of textile, especially when I drape fabric onto mannequin.
04:37And then I see a direction of movement.
04:40And then often I make patterns based on draping fabric rather than actually working on a flat surface.
04:48So I guess it is my nature to feel the movement.
04:52Yeah, I guess I'm choreographing textile rather than body itself, you know.
04:57I'm training fabric, I guess.
05:00I guess.
05:01What did I really do?
05:02Yeah, it's the first time I tried to make your hair out...
05:03He went and said, it's different.
05:04Yeah.
05:05It's different times when you're in couple of sheets, you can finish them down.
05:09Yeah.
05:10A NINTH create a handball mask.
05:11So there's a bunch of other robocities.
05:12I don't know.
05:13You were X-E, I think someone eggs and eggs,kins, looking at a passion angle.
05:15But at one point of that, we'll be a ocupation uniform.
05:17We don't have to masküng Yeah, and there is no way drawn and soll.
05:20It's different from peine!
05:21One fuels the urge.
05:23You couldn't stay here.
05:24I just thought we were reallyamous with this Menschen in America.
05:27Yeah.
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