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00:00Do you really need to remove your mill scale before you run a weld or can you just run right
00:09over it? What kind of impact does that have? We're going to dive into that today. We're going to do
00:13a bunch of tests at different levels of settings and see how the welds actually turn out. I recently
00:20did a video showing the limitations when you're running a welding machine that just plugs into
00:25120 volts. In that video, I ran a few of the tests on some quarter inch plate that still had mill scale
00:31and I got a lot of comments saying that isn't a best practice. Now, I brought this up in the video
00:36several times that I did that on purpose because I wanted to look at the worst case condition if you
00:42have mill scale and you're limited on power and I want to test mill scale versus no mill scale with
00:50lower settings like what you'd have on maybe 120 volt machine or maybe just a bit above that
00:55and then on some hotter settings that are still short circuit MIG but running a little bit larger
01:02diameter wire and a little bit hotter. Now, my favorite tool to remove the mill scale are these
01:08purple strip discs. I'll put a link down in the description for them but I like them better than
01:12a grinding wheel because they don't dig into your material. There are some other specialized mill scale
01:17discs that you can check out but these are pretty cheap on Amazon and they work pretty well for me.
01:22So, I've got some bright shiny metal here on half of the coupons and so I'm going to have two that have
01:28mill scale and two that don't to run different settings with them. Now, I'm going to set the
01:33machine here to 350 inches per minute which is going to give me about 120 amps and I'll leave it right
01:40at the recommended 19 volts for this and then because this is a little bit lower amperage than
01:47I'd have ideally I'm going to be able to move pretty slowly and I'm going to use a little bit of
01:53manipulation but notice I never leave the puddle. When you see you know more of the MIG-like TIG stack
01:59of dimes manipulation that's kind of moving your puddle around. This is just spreading the puddle out and
02:05helping me to keep my pace and in the end I got a pretty good result. It looks a little bit cold
02:12because the settings are but overall not too bad. Now, let's try the exact same thing at least to my
02:18best ability to replicate it here without any mill scale. So, with the mill scale removed I'll use the
02:26same basic technique. Notice I'm doing just that little bit of manipulation and I'm moving pretty slowly
02:32to allow that material, the filler metal, and the heat to accumulate. Now, notice I am getting a little
02:38bit of spatter here. That's largely because I'm running kind of the higher end of amperage for this
02:44little O3O wire. You can run it quite a bit higher but when you get beyond this you start to get more
02:49and more spatter and notice it's stuck to the material a little better but I think it'd chip off
02:54just fine. So, the weld bead profile is pretty similar for both of those I'd say. I'm going to switch
03:00machines over to the MIG 2800. I just got this machine in to do a series on welding thicker
03:06material with higher amperage. This is an example of running spray transfer. I'm also going to be
03:10looking at dual shield flux core and some other processes like that over the coming weeks so
03:15stay tuned for that. Now, spray transfer like that when you're welding on thicker metal that's going to
03:20be a great way to go but today I'm going to turn this down a little bit just to keep running short
03:24circuit MIG only with some higher settings. That way we aren't really introducing another variable
03:29so I'm looking for that bacon frying sound like we had before just a bit hotter with a little bit
03:34bigger wire. So, here when I started my weld if you do the math I should be somewhere around 200 or so
03:42amps with these settings. Now, my voltage is a little bit higher than I'd like so I need either a little
03:48bit less voltage a little bit more wire speed to run ideally but since I only tacked up the four coupons
03:53I'm just going to roll with it. It's not totally out of the question. It's just a little bit more spatter
03:57than I would normally like but it's still pretty clean not bad so I'm going to run the same settings
04:04here and the same technique just a very very slight oscillation here and this one is without mill scale
04:12so we'll have one with and without mill scale on both the low and high settings that we can go ahead
04:18and test. Once again, not too bad a bead profile there. Now, I'm going to test these welds in two
04:24different ways. I'm going to cut one inch off of each end and then polish it a little bit and etch
04:31it and then I'm going to take that middle section and break it open from the root so that we can see
04:37along the entire length how well it penetrated and get a better overall picture. So, I'm just using my
04:43port-a-band to split these open. You know cutting through these welds on here is really hard on the
04:49blades but after that I true everything up here on my belt grinder and then polish it just a little
04:55bit with a scotch-brite pad and that seems to be enough generally speaking. So, I have my layout here.
05:00Now, I'm just going to use a little bit of etchant here to try to reveal the weld nugget the best I can
05:05and then break that center section open. I really need a better way to do this. I get a little nervous
05:09when I'm running these but the point is to open them up and I just wanted to point out here just how strong
05:17these welds are. I mean, even after it's broken along the whole length of the weld, look at what
05:23it takes to get it all the way apart. Now, if you're doing this on your own, you don't necessarily need
05:27it to be broken all the way apart. I just did it to be able to get a better look. Alright, let's go
05:32ahead and take a look at the results here. So, this is the colder settings with mill scale. Now, if we look
05:38at the overall profile of the weld bead, I would like to see this approach, the toe of the weld
05:46approach at a little shallower angle. Right here, it's getting close to that 90 degree mark but it
05:51isn't quite there. And you can see there is some amount of penetration into the material and down
05:57to the root but not really past it. Alright, let's go ahead and take a look at the brake test results.
06:02Now, the fact that this broke open doesn't mean that it failed. What you're looking for here is along
06:09the whole length of the weld, did it consume the actual root? And I would say that no, it didn't
06:16here in this case. If you look, you can still see the original edge. It's a nice straight line. So,
06:23it would have been nice to see more penetration. That being said, it did hold fairly well and the
06:30breakage is all in the middle of the weld joint on both sides. So, you certainly have, you know,
06:38some people talk about if the conditions aren't ideal, it's just like weak as water. It's actually
06:43still a pretty strong weld but definitely not best practice there. Now, these are the same settings,
06:51those colder settings with the mill scale removed. Notice the toe of the weld is tied in much better.
06:57This angle where the toe approaches the base metal is much more shallow. So, that's a good thing. That
07:03might have partially been variations in my technique but I'm sure the removal of the mill scale helped.
07:09There's no undercut and there wasn't in the other case either. That can be an issue with mill scale
07:14is it can lead to undercut but it did penetrate into the base material if you follow that line down
07:20in both cases but not much into the root. You could see just a little bit of a gap right there at the root.
07:29So, notice on the brake test, once again, it's a pretty straight line across here. Right there,
07:35you're getting down into the root right there in a few locations but generally speaking, you're not
07:41getting in there very deep along the length of the joint. It did break in the weld material right
07:47here. You can see that it penetrated through and you have some delamination on the top side and then
07:53again on the bottom side but still, you know, potentially a little bit of lack of fusion
08:00running these colder settings. Again, this is running about 120 amps or so on this quarter inch
08:06thick material with O3O wire. So, definitely colder than it needed to be and so that's a struggle with
08:14or without mill scale but, you know, removing the mill scale definitely did help it run better.
08:20Alright, so if we take a look here, these are the hotter settings with mill scale and the weld bead
08:25profile is much better. Now, the cross section I ended up with over here, it's piled up a little
08:30bit which isn't ideal but that's more of a technique issue than a process issue and we're looking at the
08:36process here. So, right here you can see more penetration down into the plate and past that root
08:44a little bit. So, same thing over here, we got much better penetration. So, those hotter settings
08:51still, you know, could be hotter than that honestly on this quarter inch thick plate if you went to 0.45
08:58wire or ran like a spray transfer or something like that but you're definitely penetrating a lot better
09:03in past that mill scale. Now, let's take a look at the brake test and notice along here it's jagged all
09:10the way. So, you don't have a straight line. That's what I like to see on a fillet weld brake test because
09:16that means that it penetrated down into the root along the whole length of the joint where it failed.
09:22Now, if you look at the failure up here, it's pretty deep into the base material there more of
09:30like a delamination. However, on the bottom you can see right here it's just flat in a few areas. You
09:38have kind of a different sheen. And if you look on this bottom side here right through there,
09:42I believe there was a little bit of lack of fusion probably from that mill scale.
09:47So, it did seem to have an impact on the overall weld. So, definitely, you know, reinforces that
09:57concept of removing the mill scale. Here we have the hotter settings with the mill scale removed.
10:01This should be the best case of the bunch. And if you look at it, it is. So, right here,
10:07you can see we got good penetration down into the plate on both sides. And you hit that root
10:14on both sides. Good weld bead profile. And so, definitely what you want to see on those macros.
10:23Now, if we look at the brake test, this is the one that was hanging on for dear life. But look at
10:27that jagged edge all the way along here. You got down into the root throughout. And then you can see
10:35this is pulling from within the material, delaminating that along that grain structure. So,
10:42you definitely have some good sound strength in that weld. I just wanted to point something out
10:48here looking side by side. This is with mill scale and without, both hot settings. So, here with the
10:54mill scale, if you look at this surface, you can see how it has a different appearance than this.
11:01Right here, this is pulling out of that grain structure in the lower plate, down in the base
11:06metal. Where some of this was right in that region, but a lot of this more egg crate style really was
11:14not fused beyond the mill scale. So, even with these hotter settings, the mill scale really had an impact.
11:22All right. So, what's the takeaway from all this? Well, it's no surprise that removing your mill scale is,
11:27you know, beneficial. But I was honestly a little bit surprised of how much effect that it had at the
11:33higher settings. I thought when you're running a bit hotter that you wouldn't really see that lack
11:38of fusion in the fracture surface like we did, but you definitely did. So, even if you are running a bit
11:44harder, it's certainly worth removing the mill scale. Also, it only takes a few seconds to remove. It shows better
11:51craftsmanship and the weld runs better. So, there's really no reason not to take a minute and just
11:57knock that mill scale off. If you enjoyed this or learned something, let me know by hitting that thumbs
12:02up or leaving me a comment below. And if you are just learning to weld, be sure to check out my online
12:07courses. I keep them as affordable as possible and walk you through step-by-step the whole process
12:13so that you can learn faster with hands-on targeted exercises. And you'll be up and going,
12:19building stuff that you've always wanted to. Thanks a ton for tuning in. We'll see you next time.
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