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K2 The Impossible Descent 2020
Transcript
00:00:35The first ski descent of K2 would be a monumental event.
00:00:45No one has yet proven that it's possible, that it can be done without dying.
00:00:52To do it without using any supplemental oxygen seems pretty unachievable.
00:01:13What's up here?
00:01:14What are you doing?
00:01:16I'm over 4th, I'll never see anything.
00:01:22I won't go in such a wagon.
00:01:27No, no, no, you'll have to fuck up,
00:01:28because there will be a mess.
00:01:34I think, Jendrek, you have to take a decision.
00:01:40I'll go to the road.
00:01:47It doesn't matter.
00:01:47I'm over 5th, so get there.
00:01:52Come in here.
00:01:52objective hour.
00:01:53This is, then, I'm going over 5.
00:02:16There is something about K2 that makes your heart kind of skip a beat.
00:02:26I think about it all the time.
00:02:28It's this beautiful, incredible mountain that just draws you in.
00:02:40Even for real, core, authentic climbers, this is the dream mountain, the hardest one.
00:02:52K2 is an incredibly scary mountain.
00:03:00There have been so many accidents, so many fatalities.
00:03:05One in four people that have climbed K2 don't come back.
00:03:16I have been a professional climber and skier for decades now.
00:03:20But I had never been to K2 until last year.
00:03:24And there is no reason I would ever go there again.
00:03:28André definitely came out of nowhere.
00:03:30I just remember hearing his name and I've been in this sport for 20 years and I've never heard of
00:03:36André.
00:03:39When I heard that André was headed to K2, I didn't know much about him.
00:03:45And I was curious.
00:03:47Yes.
00:03:48Yes.
00:03:57Yes.
00:03:59That's why he was in this sport.
00:04:02And I saw this sport.
00:04:04And I found it very well.
00:04:04In the middle of the years, we had the cases.
00:04:09And then there were the cases.
00:04:09And those people are really good sports people.
00:04:13They were very well.
00:04:20In 2010, I observed his behavior and I was very close to him when he went to SCA2.
00:04:32It was also very unusual that he went to SCA2.
00:04:37There were only two people, there was a lot of people.
00:04:40At the end, I don't know what really happened.
00:04:45There were some rumors.
00:04:47Probably there was a lot of Huck and the whole scale fell.
00:04:52And he just fell in the middle.
00:04:57Frederick Erickson was one of the best Knarkers.
00:05:01He was also a great spinster.
00:05:05I think it's an example of that in these difficult lines of K2,
00:05:10there is a lot of danger.
00:05:13It's definitely a moment when you think about the sense of what you are doing.
00:05:20I'm sure that you are all in the country.
00:05:23You know what?
00:05:27It's a lot of fun.
00:05:31I think that's a whole thing, so I know.
00:05:35I think that I want to think about the K2?
00:05:38It will be the line with the SZ why?
00:05:41It can be a few days of the K2.
00:05:42It's not a life.
00:05:43But it was clear that when I went to K2.
00:05:43But finally for a few days, it was clear that the weather could help me.
00:05:46I had to change my plans.
00:05:51It's hard to go, because it's not going to be what will happen.
00:05:55If we go to the river, it would be like it.
00:06:01Because there wouldn't be such a hop-shop.
00:06:07It's not normal, what happens.
00:06:09At the moment we have a meter in the base.
00:06:11The icefall is up to the bottom, the bottom, the bottom, the bottom.
00:06:16It's like a pole.
00:06:25One of the challenges of 8,000 meter peak climbing is you really can't skip steps.
00:06:31And acclimatization is absolutely essential.
00:06:35If you want to do it without supplemental oxygen,
00:06:37that takes more acclimatization.
00:06:39If weather or bad conditions make it impossible to acclimatize well,
00:06:45then that makes a summit push much more dangerous
00:06:48and much more difficult.
00:06:55Ifkeeping costs for more and more supports it can do more.
00:07:01I was thinking about how many air straighteninous like this
00:07:02would happen ?
00:07:06Student 2
00:07:07I mean what's the definition of adventure?
00:07:09Adventure only begins when the best laid plans all go wrong.
00:07:21walking up the baltoro glacier is super complicated
00:07:28it can be intimidating it can be really awe-inspiring you're walking on rocks rocking on ice it's hard
00:07:38there's what i would call more popular 8 000 meter peaks that
00:07:42have much easier access k2 is not one of them
00:07:46it was not my first test from the K2
00:08:21the greatest lessons come from from failures you've clearly found some sort of limit to what you're
00:08:29trying to do uh but it gives you an opportunity to examine that limit
00:08:45all the people who come to the mountains they have learned to be okay with failure and and still to
00:08:51try still to take steps still to dream big even though a lot of times it doesn't work out
00:08:59to the k2 is only a matter of time
00:09:12to the k2 of course
00:09:13the k2 is only a matter of time
00:09:15to the k2
00:09:18the k2 was only a matter
00:09:24to the k2
00:09:29In this height, the mind will stop working, and the body will not be able to listen to it.
00:09:37Then I will be on the south, to get through the snow-cold, to get to the road of Chesena.
00:09:44It's a dangerous scene.
00:09:46Sometimes there are strong winds.
00:09:51I'm going through the 3rd, I'm going towards the Traverse Messner.
00:09:56It's a very difficult scene.
00:09:58On the side of the grani, there are huge
00:10:01The only tracy that I can get to the road Jerzego Kupuczki and Tadeus Piotrowski
00:10:13There is a road to the K2
00:10:16The road is waiting for me, and there are a few meters
00:10:22One błąd and I'm a few meters
00:10:34I'm a group of people who know and love them.
00:10:40We spend time there and we don't do that for a car.
00:10:45So the atmosphere is very important.
00:10:47Maybe we can do something, but we can do it for a month.
00:10:52We can do it for a month.
00:10:52It's nice to be done with the atmosphere.
00:10:54It was a good time, which we can remember.
00:11:00There is no one who has a driver.
00:11:04And we can do it.
00:11:06There was Janusz Gołąb, who was a support for safety.
00:11:12We can do it, we can do it.
00:11:14It's not far away.
00:11:15It's fine, Janusz, we can do it.
00:11:19I can do it, but I can do it.
00:11:24There's a shop, Marek, who is not a photographer.
00:11:28It's not a radio.
00:11:30And my mary's brother, the driver, the drone took me off.
00:11:35The site would be already to get out.
00:11:38It was my time to inspire me.
00:11:41It was a 150000 euros.
00:11:48The area is very complicated and you need to read all the information on the surface.
00:11:55The drone is very useful, because in the first phase we can see what is near and it doesn't require
00:12:01it to get rid of these difficult places.
00:12:06There were already missions that had drones, but unfortunately they couldn't get rid of this drone so high enough to
00:12:16find out on the street of an 8000.
00:12:19What I changed in the drone was the software. I pulled the minimum height and increased the speed of the
00:12:27drone.
00:12:31You want to use everything in your advantage to achieve your goal.
00:12:36There has been sort of a generational shift in the use of technology to assist very difficult objectives in the
00:12:44mountains.
00:12:47What I'm interested in is that I'm interested in the whole thing in the distance.
00:12:52You can see the camera from the other side, from the other side, from the other side, from the other
00:12:59side, from the other side.
00:13:02I have a support for the family in which I do.
00:13:06Not everyone is understood and obvious.
00:13:14Andrzej B ratuje stopy swojego brata Bartka B,
00:13:19który biedny wyprał skarpetki
00:13:21i zapomniał zostawić sobie jedną parę.
00:13:23Dlatego z pomocą przed jego brat,
00:13:25z papuciami puchowymi
00:13:28i z ogrzewaczami.
00:13:30Dokładnie tak.
00:13:32Obecność mojego młodszego brata jest dla mnie mega ważna.
00:13:37Troszczymy się o siebie.
00:13:39To naturalne dla kogoś, kto dorastał wśród dziesiątki rodzeństwa.
00:13:46Wychowywałem się na wsi w Puentowni.
00:13:49To jest miejscowość między Krakowem a Zakopanem.
00:13:54Wszystko kręciło się wokół gospodarstwa, które rodzice prowadzili.
00:14:00Wspieraliśmy, pomagaliśmy rodzicom.
00:14:02Miałem dużą rodzinę i też każdy szukał tej swojej przestrzeni.
00:14:07Każdy chciał mieć coś swojego.
00:14:12Moje pierwsze narty były bardzo długie,
00:14:15miały 190 centymetrów albo 2 metry długości.
00:14:19Narty wymieniłem za paletki do ping-ponga i scyzory.
00:14:25Pamiętam, że je przeciąłem na pół praktycznie.
00:14:29To był biznes życia, jak się później okazało.
00:14:35Grzegorz pokazał mi gaz, teatry, dwa aktywności, które można tam uprawiać.
00:14:42Andrzej po prostu naturalnie przy mnie gdzieś to chłonął.
00:14:45Nawet się nie skupialiśmy specjalnie na tym, że ja mu czegoś uczę specjalnie.
00:14:49Tylko po prostu przyjeżdżał i robił to samo, co ja.
00:14:52No i jakby na tyle zaskoczył, że pociągnął to gdzieś dalej.
00:15:00Przyszedł taki drastyczny moment, dla mnie trudny i dla Andrzeja wydaje mi się bardziej,
00:15:05że miałem w wieku 15 lat, już wyszedłem z domu i starałem się sam sobie radzić.
00:15:10Musiałem go przeprosić, powiedzieć, stary, no nie ogarniemy tego razem.
00:15:20Jak go obserwowałem później, to dało mu jeszcze większego kopa.
00:15:28No i automatycznie on przyjeżdżał do mnie, no to zawsze coś się działo.
00:15:32Dałem mu sprzęt skiturowy, na którym ja startowałem.
00:15:35Jak zaskoczył, to potrafi chodzić cały dzień na przykład na tych nartach, nie?
00:15:41Ale w domu było mnóstwo dzieciaków, więc ten trening był jakąś taką moją przestrzenią,
00:15:50że wychodziłem i miałem święty spokój.
00:15:53Na tyle mi się to spodobało, że kolejne razy skiturek to były już zawody.
00:15:58Po tych zawodach stwierdziłem, że chcę to robić.
00:16:00Trenowałem na co dzień już na wsi.
00:16:16DZIEWIĄTY LIPCA
00:16:19Metr po metrze przyglądamy się z boczą K2.
00:16:24Musimy wytyczyć linię, która umożliwi mi zjazd.
00:16:32Po dotarciu pod K2 mieliśmy w planie, chcieliśmy od dołu iść do Gąbasków,
00:16:38do połączenia się z drogą Abrucji na ramieniu K2.
00:16:42To jest wysokość mniej więcej 7-800.
00:16:44Natomiast ta linia zjazdów zupełnie inaczej potem przebiegała.
00:16:49Nie ma jakichś super specjalistów, którzy ci powiedzą
00:16:52zrób to tak i tak i to się da, bądź...
00:16:55A to się nie da, wiesz, to odkrywanie troszeczkę tych sytuacji.
00:17:10Do naszej bazy przyszedł kucharz z sąsiedniej wyprawy.
00:17:17Powiedział, że chyba wypaczył przez lornetkę człowieka.
00:17:22I okazało się, że człowiek jest w miejscu, w którym kompletnie nie powinien się znajdować.
00:17:27Jest to po prostu wspinacz, który wyczerpany, wycieńczony,
00:17:32wisi naczekany na taką olbrzymią przepaścią kilometrową.
00:17:35I tam nie ma żadnych służb ratunkowych.
00:17:38Trzeba po prostu się angażować czynnie w to, by komuś pomóc.
00:17:44I wtedy Bartek poleciał dronem.
00:17:50Nie spodziewałem się tak naprawdę, że ten dron jest w stanie cokolwiek pomóc.
00:17:56Bo tam jest dużo rzadsze powiatrze, więc silniki muszą się kręcić dużo szybciej.
00:18:04Nowa ściana, w lewo, zaczyna się pasmo ze śniegiem.
00:18:08Dla nas to jest absolutnie naturalne, że jeżeli ktoś woła pomoc,
00:18:12to ten nasz cel główny zupełnie jest odsunięty na bok.
00:18:17Okazało się, że to trzy osoby ruszyły do ataku szczytowego
00:18:21i z jedną z nich nie ma kontaktu.
00:18:31No widać go?
00:18:34Widać go, no.
00:18:37Swydziliśmy, że kluczowe jest właśnie to, żeby zaczął schodzić w dobrym kierunku.
00:18:42I Bartek zrobił to bardzo sprycznie, bo odlatywał w poziomie na jakieś 4 metry i wracał.
00:18:50I w momencie, jak on się ruszył, no to odleciał kawałek dalej.
00:18:54W ten sposób, jak gdyby ta osoba zaczęła w ogóle działać, przemieszczać.
00:19:00Zobaczył, że ktoś widzi go i on był w takim bardzo trudnym stanie.
00:19:05Był skrajnie wyczerpany.
00:19:08No i jakoś po prostu przez te kilka godzin stamtąd się w zasadzie sam wydostał.
00:19:14Było to coś przełomowego i tutaj Bartek wykonał super pracę.
00:19:18Mam dużą rodzinę, przez co pomagamy sobie nawzajem, więc też dostrzegamy te momenty, kiedy komuś trzeba pomóc.
00:19:28Doma niesamowita. Byłem dumny z braci, że zadziałali, że byli w stanie pomóc.
00:19:33Że sam właśnie dojrzali górsko, świadomi tego, że w tym, co robimy, to jest najważniejsze życie i radość tego życia.
00:19:47Myślę, że to jest najważniejsze kroki w montażenie.
00:19:51I myślę, że to może najważniejsze kroki w montażenie.
00:19:52I jaka ludzie lubią to, jaka ludzie lubią to, jaka ludzie lubią to.
00:19:55Drony zbierają dużo bezpieczeństwa i informacją do nasz klibów i skierów.
00:20:19Przyszedł czas, żeby Andrzej odczarował trawers Messnera.
00:20:24Czyli połączenie drogi Basków z drogą Kukuczki.
00:20:28Dla mnie to było jedyne połączenie między drogami, które pozwoliło na pełen zjazd.
00:20:34Ze względu na to, że nie wiedziałem, czy fizycznie uda się przejechać tam czy nie.
00:20:39Chciałem wyjść drogą Czesena, prosto do obozu trzeciego.
00:20:44Później kolejnego dnia przedostać się z tej drogi trawersem Messnera do drogi polskiej, co było jedną wielką niewiadomą.
00:20:53Dzień dobry.
00:20:59To co jest, Janusz?
00:21:02Dzień dobry, Andrzej.
00:21:06Jestem, jestem. Jak tam u Ciebie? Żyjesz? Cały i zdrowy?
00:21:10Nie no, ja żyję.
00:21:12W dwóch pisa tutaj, krok ma na dole, u Ciebie pewnie jeszcze bardziej.
00:21:16No, chciałbym jutro spróbować wbić się w tą drogę, ten trawer z Messnera.
00:21:24Nawet Raichol Messner, który wymyślił ten trawer, nigdy go nie przeszedł.
00:21:27Bo się po prostu bał, bo to miejsce jest bardzo ryzykowne.
00:21:31Miałem świadomość tego, że no, nikt tego nie robił, tam nikogo nie było.
00:21:35Świecące, błyszczące się seraki, aż po prostu rażą w oczy.
00:21:40Czasem się odrywają.
00:21:41Stadzą fragmenty lodu, duże masy śniegu, skały.
00:21:46Myśmy nie wiedzieli, czy jest możliwość całkowitego zjazdu na nartach.
00:21:51Czy nie dojdzie tam do sytuacji na końcu tego trawersu, tuż przed połączeniem z drogą Kukuszka Piotrowskiej,
00:21:57czy Andrzej nie będzie musiał tam nart ściągnąć.
00:22:00Łącząc te wszystkie podmioty, jestem pewny, najtrudniejszy zjazd, jaki jest na ziemi.
00:22:06Dzień, już leżysz wypasiony, pojedzony.
00:22:10Proszę tam, Andrzej.
00:22:20Jeśli chodzi o moją przygodę właśnie ze skarbinizmem i początki w formie zawodnika, to miałem 17 lat.
00:22:29Traktowałem w zawodach ski alpinistycznych.
00:22:32Jeszcze jako junior nie był dopuszczony do startu na dłużej takiej trasie.
00:22:37Potrafił przelecieć tą swoją trasę juniorską, a później już nieoficjalnie polecieć dalej z tymi seniorami i tam z nimi na
00:22:44przykład powygrywać.
00:22:47Chciałem rywalizować z najlepszymi.
00:22:50Ma dużą determinację, jeżeli sobie coś wymyśli, to po prostu jest w stanie mocno pracować i bardzo długo na to.
00:22:59Zaczął startować i reprezentować Polskę oficjalnie w ski-touringu.
00:23:03No i wziął udział w jakichś dużych imprezach typu właśnie, czy mistrzostwa świata, czy właśnie jakieś takie duże alpejskie imprezy.
00:23:11Jak już jechać na zawody, no to najlepiej, żeby je wygrać.
00:23:27No trudne to byłoby po prostu robić to na wysokim poziomie w momencie, kiedy nie masz tutaj lokalnego wsparcia.
00:23:35Robiliśmy u Francuzów zdjęcia kombinezonów, sprzętu, oglądaliśmy, a później sami szukaliśmy ludzi, którzy nam, nie wiem, przyli takie kombinezony.
00:23:49W momencie, kiedy ten sport miał być przyjęty do grona dyscyplin olimpijskich, no zeszła lawina.
00:24:02Kilkanaście osób wtedy znalazło się pod śniegiem, włącznie ze mną.
00:24:11Ciśnienie jest tak dużo, że wrywa ci wszystkie rzeczy, które masz na sobie.
00:24:15I to nie jest tak, że sobie możesz zrobić jakiś otwór i nie możesz ruszyć nawet palcem małym.
00:24:22To był taki krótki moment, kiedy tak świadomie mnie odcinało, a później po prostu bardzo szybko ktoś mnie z tego
00:24:30śniegu wydostał.
00:24:38To bardzo wpłynęło negatywnie na to, by ten sport stał się po prostu olimpijskim.
00:24:47To był taki moment zwrotny.
00:24:49Przestałem startować w zawodach, że nie wiedziałem do końca, co będę robił.
00:24:53I jeżeli mam się tym zajmować, to muszę to robić po prostu po swojemu.
00:25:0312 lipca.
00:25:06Po nocy spędzonej na wysokości 7000 metrów zaczynam rozpoznanie najbardziej niebezpiecznego odcinka mojej trasy.
00:25:14Zobaczmy.
00:25:29Horror.
00:25:31No bo jednak jest to bardzo niebezpieczne miejsce.
00:25:33Nad tym trawersem biśnić 300 metrowa bariera lodu.
00:25:37No nigdy nie wiadomo, czy jakaś olbrzymia lawina nie pójdzie tamtędy.
00:25:45To było bardzo strome, bo to było jakieś 75 pewnie stopni.
00:25:52Tutaj kluczem jest to, by wybrać miejsce, gdzie założymy stały punkt.
00:25:59I trzeba dobrać długość liny też w zależności od tego, no dokąd chcemy dotrzeć.
00:26:03To jest ważne, by wiedzieć, że w momencie, kiedy już tej liny nie będziemy korzystać,
00:26:07ten teren pozwala nam na jazdę już swobodną
00:26:11i będziemy w stanie dostać się w to miejsce, do którego chcemy się dostać.
00:26:16Zobaczmy.
00:26:18Zobaczmy.
00:26:19Zobaczmy.
00:26:28Zobaczmy.
00:26:30Zobaczmy.
00:26:31Zobaczmy.
00:26:37Zobaczmy.
00:26:41Zobaczmy.
00:26:43Zobaczmy.
00:26:43Zobaczmy.
00:26:45Zobaczmy.
00:26:47Zobaczmy.
00:26:48Zobaczmy.
00:26:49Zobaczmy.
00:26:51Zobaczmy.
00:26:53Zobaczmy.
00:26:54Zobaczmy.
00:27:05Zobaczmy.
00:27:07Zobaczmy.
00:27:09Zobaczmy.
00:27:10Zobaczmy.
00:27:12I don't know what I'm waiting for and what I'm doing is safe.
00:27:42You lose an edge and you're gone.
00:28:02When you're executing something for the first time a human's ever done it,
00:28:07that's a mental barrier that has been literally taken down.
00:28:22You move the line.
00:28:25You know, the what was possible used to be here and now it's here.
00:28:53The first time I felt that it's possible and that it makes sense.
00:28:58I'm waiting for the next day.
00:29:07It's a nice day.
00:29:07I'm waiting for the next day.
00:29:07I'm waiting for the next day.
00:29:09I just wait for the next day.
00:29:2515 lipca.
00:29:36I'm waiting for the next day.
00:29:40I'm waiting for the next day.
00:29:51I'm waiting for the next day.
00:29:53I'm waiting for the next day.
00:29:58I'm ready for the next day.
00:29:59I'm waiting for the next day.
00:30:03I'm waiting for the next day.
00:30:06I'm waiting for a minute to go ahead and go.
00:30:08I'm waiting for the next day.
00:30:27In 2010, I took part in the competitions, which were on the run at Elbrus in the first time.
00:30:36In the competitions, I started with a few players from all over the world.
00:30:42I don't know how much it was, like 500-600.
00:30:47When I went to Alp, I didn't have to be in a few thousand meters.
00:30:55I was warned before their return to their destination,
00:31:02because they didn't say that they were able to find themselves there.
00:31:08Let's go, let's go, let's go!
00:31:12I remember that I had to go for some time to go for a while, to be able to go
00:31:17for a while.
00:31:18This is our winner.
00:31:27Via Carbo, from protein.
00:31:32By the way, people who were connected with Himalayism wanted me to go for regular tours.
00:31:45Then I went to two national tours.
00:31:48I had an 8000 Manaslu and Lodza.
00:31:51Of course, I had to go for a while, that I had to go for a while.
00:31:55I also wanted to see if it is possible, if it is possible in such a wide range.
00:32:02After two years, in which I was in the field,
00:32:04there was a moment when I felt that it was something for me.
00:32:08It was just a way to go.
00:32:11The dream could lead us back to things that we had never thought of.
00:32:17I would have to go for a while,
00:32:42I'm ready to go to Atak Szczytowy.
00:33:00I'm ready to go to Atak Szczytowy.
00:33:23I'm ready to go to Atak Szczytowy.
00:33:38I'm ready to go to Atak Szczytowy.
00:33:41In the Karakorum you can't have a guarantee of a rescue when things go wrong.
00:33:46The good thing is, in the mountains there is still like a brotherhood amongst teams, even competitive teams.
00:33:54I'm ready to go to Atak Szczytowy.
00:34:21Atak Szczytowy.
00:34:24and then we went to the team.
00:34:35I put the pressure on, then I improved the leg,
00:34:39because I wasn't sure if it was broken.
00:34:57The biggest problem was the tension in these conditions,
00:35:02because the terrain was so bad,
00:35:05that everything was on one side, on the other side,
00:35:07and the whole thing was like a sherman.
00:35:14We got to the base,
00:35:16and the doctor started to take care of it.
00:35:44It was always a good time,
00:35:46but it was a good time,
00:35:47and it was also a good time,
00:35:47and it helped me to fight against the nation.
00:35:50People were alive and to beес.
00:35:52A rescue of someone else's life very much compromises your own personal goals, your timeline, your health.
00:36:04But you're called on to do a rescue, you're called on to do a rescue, and you do it.
00:36:2217 lipca.
00:36:25Przed nami ostatni etap wyprawy.
00:36:30Za kilka dni będziemy w drodze na szczyt.
00:36:36Mam nadzieję, że po drodze nie stanie się nic złego, bo przecież tyle rzeczy może pójść nie tak.
00:36:47Teraz czekamy na odpowiedni moment.
00:37:00Padać cały czas. Rano będzie 5 cm. Po południu 3, w nocy 17.
00:37:06Zachmurzenie na 8 języków.
00:37:08Serious, poczy.
00:37:09Basecamp, over.
00:37:11Co z weather?
00:37:14Weather for Ciescent is snowing here with strong wind here also.
00:37:19Co z powodu do niej nie widzę.
00:37:24Co z powodu nie widzą.
00:37:27Co z powodu nie widzą, jest wait.
00:37:29And there's so much time, especially on 8,000-meter peaks,
00:37:32where you're doing nothing.
00:37:34You're sitting at base camp and you're looking at the mountain
00:37:39and calculating and trying to figure out the best method of attack.
00:37:44And sometimes that method of attack is doing nothing.
00:38:0419 lipca.
00:38:07Każdy kolejny dzień spędzony w bazie odbiera moje szanse na sukces.
00:38:13Muszę podjąć decyzję.
00:38:15Teraz albo nigdy.
00:38:24Duże skupienie, duża koncentracja.
00:38:27Muszę po prostu spakować pleca.
00:38:29Tylko to było trudne,
00:38:31bo do końca nie wiedziałem, ile dni spędzę wysoko.
00:38:35Czasem mały drobiazg, który zabieramy ze sobą,
00:38:39może wpłynąć na nasze bezpieczeństwo
00:38:41i decydować nawet o naszym życiu.
00:38:48Kombinezon mam tam, myślę.
00:38:51Mam ten cięższy kombinezon.
00:38:53Wystarczy mi?
00:38:54No będziesz się ruszał, nie?
00:38:57Tak.
00:39:00To nie jest tak, że jeżeli jest jakaś prognoza,
00:39:03to ona w 100% się sprawdzi.
00:39:04Na bieżąco trzeba to oceniać.
00:39:06Więc ja wychodziłem z takiego założenia,
00:39:08że warto spróbować po prostu.
00:39:10Zawsze jeżeli coś się popsuje,
00:39:11to bardzo szybko mogę wrócić.
00:39:13To jest start.
00:39:17Zaczynamy atak na Kacwaj.
00:39:26Zaczynamy.
00:39:27Zaczynamy.
00:39:28Zaczynamy.
00:39:44Zaczynamy.
00:39:50Zaczynamy.
00:39:52Zaczynamy.
00:40:10Zaczynamy się zdecydoważy
00:40:20We wanted to do it in the way that Janusz had to go first.
00:40:25We had to meet each other in the third place,
00:40:27to try to go together together.
00:40:30We had to go to Czesenat.
00:40:34Janusz was a great swimmer, alpinist.
00:40:38He was in the middle of the summer.
00:40:41He was in the middle of the summer.
00:40:43He has a chance to do it,
00:40:47that it can be done in a different way.
00:40:50He was in the middle of the summer.
00:41:12He was in the middle of the summer.
00:41:18He was in the middle of the summer,
00:41:19he was not able to go to physically.
00:41:23We were all the time with doctors.
00:41:26They were all the time with Glock Peak.
00:41:28Glock Peak, welcome to Glock 2.
00:41:31For a while, Janusz go on.
00:41:34He has a problem.
00:41:36Now we will be able to talk to him,
00:41:39so we can hear him, you know?
00:41:40I'm not able to do it. I tried to go in front of Namiot, to go in front of Namiot.
00:41:45I didn't have to go in front of Namiot. I was able to go in front of Namiot.
00:41:50I was able to go in front of Namiot.
00:41:52I was able to go in front of Namiot.
00:41:58Tell me where he is, Janusz, at what height of his head?
00:42:01He is in the 3rd on 7000.
00:42:04Is there a possibility to go in front of Namiot?
00:42:10It's a very good question for 100 points, but I don't answer it.
00:42:14If it's hard to go, it definitely needs to go in front of Namiot.
00:42:18It may be possible for tomorrow to increase, but it may be the same.
00:42:23It's all about time.
00:42:26Ok, thanks.
00:42:47It's obvious that I can't go in front of Namiot.
00:42:51It's obvious that I can't go in front of Namiot.
00:42:55It's obvious that I can't go in front of Namiot.
00:43:02But it was the moment when we went to Namiot.
00:43:10It's obvious that I can't go in front of Namiot.
00:43:19The same thing for Namiot to be in front of Namiot to be in front of Namiot.
00:43:25It's weird for Namiot to be able to go in front of Namiot.
00:43:30It's also weird for Namiot.
00:43:31It's somebody who can't move in front of Namiot.
00:43:35I have to wait for a week to wait for the weather in the middle of the night.
00:43:41We thought that all the way we were doing,
00:43:43so that Jędrek was on the street
00:43:45and suddenly there was a dilemma,
00:43:47that he could not leave,
00:43:48because he could help us.
00:43:53It was a very difficult moment,
00:43:55not to be seen.
00:44:01There was a doctor for me,
00:44:03which had helped me.
00:44:06We thought that was just a drone.
00:44:12We packed tramal,
00:44:15paracetamol,
00:44:16a few other things,
00:44:17and we were able to get 7000 drones.
00:44:22I had no need to transport any drone.
00:44:29I didn't know,
00:44:30and I wondered if the drone
00:44:32would be able to fly with such a additional pressure.
00:44:46I had to move over the snow,
00:44:48to fly to the 3rd.
00:44:50The 1st.
00:44:50The 2nd.
00:44:53It was a very difficult time,
00:44:55when the weather was very weak.
00:45:05The 1st.
00:45:07The 1st.
00:45:10The 2nd.
00:45:12The 2nd.
00:45:16The 3rd.
00:45:16The 3rd.
00:45:16The 3rd.
00:45:17The 1st.
00:45:18The 3rd.
00:45:18them use a drone to deliver medicine to a high camp, that is, I mean, I'm speechless.
00:45:26Like, it's such a game-changer.
00:45:43Next time we have to send the cow.
00:45:45No, it can't be free.
00:46:15No, Janusz ma mnóstwo doświadczenia, mnóstwo wiedzy i taka osoba jest niezwykle cenna w zespole.
00:46:23Nie wiedziałem, co mam robić.
00:46:28All of a sudden you are really alone and it's all on you to decide how you're going to proceed.
00:46:37That's scary.
00:46:38When we left in 2017 and we realized that we didn't realize the goal,
00:46:46it was clear that it sits in Andrzej.
00:47:10It's hard for me to imagine how he could have had that mental strength and physical strength.
00:47:15He was solo and that demands a lot of respect.
00:47:33It's hard for me to think of the way to go.
00:47:37The feeling of being a little bit is not a problem.
00:47:40The feeling of being a little bit is not a problem.
00:47:51I'm not afraid to spend time in the mountains
00:47:57and I did it in the mountains
00:48:21I went from 4.00 to 6.00
00:48:34The road Brutsyr is very exhausted by the spiners
00:48:38I was a lot of people when I was forced to go
00:48:42because I was forced to go without a plan
00:48:43and suddenly I got out of nowhere
00:48:52When your brain starts to not get enough oxygen
00:48:55it starts to build pressure
00:48:57and that pressure starts to push on parts of the brain
00:48:59and makes those parts of the brain not work
00:49:03Everyone I've ever seen at those altitudes
00:49:05without supplemental oxygen
00:49:07are struggling just to put one foot in front of the other
00:49:15I don't know if I had a lot of pressure
00:49:25Your brain isn't aware of how slow you're moving
00:49:53I don't know if I had a lot of pressure
00:49:54Hello Andre, we also hear you at the base
00:49:57We are on the ground
00:50:01We are on the ground
00:50:02We are on the ground
00:50:03We are on the ground
00:50:11We are on the ground
00:50:12We are on the ground
00:50:14We are on the ground
00:50:14We are on the ground
00:50:16We are on the ground
00:50:20You've got to enjoy the summit, but you also have to understand that the hardest part of your task is
00:50:24still ahead of you.
00:50:25You can't stay there for an extended period of time. You have to keep moving.
00:50:32Okay, if I can, I can.
00:50:34Listen, it's on our left. It's probably on your right.
00:50:55It's the death zone. Your body is dying, but your rational brain knows that you have this crazy, athletic, mental
00:51:06requirement still ahead of you.
00:51:14Now you have to perform very technical skiing.
00:51:22I have always skied with oxygen. To do it without is just a completely different level.
00:51:30In the moment, when I'm at the end, I've realized that it's the best for me.
00:51:36Okay, I'm going to show you how it feels. How do you feel?
00:51:41I'm going to show you how I feel.
00:51:43I'm going to show you.
00:51:44I'm going to show you.
00:51:45I'm going to show you.
00:51:49I'm going to show you how I feel.
00:51:59I'm going to show you.
00:52:11I can't go.
00:52:15I want to show you.
00:52:17I want to show you.
00:52:18different brain waves, different fear pathways.
00:52:48When you're in big mountains, in the Himalayas, in the Karakoram, there's potential for massive avalanches, class 4 or 5
00:52:56avalanche that would take out of town, you know, you just don't know what's going to happen, it's a very
00:53:01unstable environment.
00:53:07Now go right side, yeah?
00:53:10Musiłem przeciąć tą trasę wspinaczy.
00:53:13Było kilka osób, na które potencjalnie mogłem zwrócić do wina.
00:53:21It's a very delicate balance, which means that your capacity to assess your terrain and your level of situational awareness
00:53:34has to be at a very, very elite level.
00:53:43You know, of course, we are at very high altitudes, lack of oxygen makes decision-making quite difficult.
00:53:48Your brain feels foggy or like when you are drunk.
00:53:51And so this adds a lot of risk to everything you do.
00:54:02The thing about K2 is if the snow is firm, pretty much every single place on K2, if you fall,
00:54:09you will go to the bottom.
00:54:10There is nowhere to stop.
00:54:15This means that any small mistake will be fatal.
00:54:18What does he do?
00:54:38He will die to the water.
00:54:39I have to wait for the wind.
00:54:40A little bit for a salt of water.
00:54:45Who is so strong?
00:54:46I have to wait for...
00:54:46... goodbye to the water.
00:54:48the most dangerous part of the race
00:54:49Travers from Messner
00:55:10He descended into a cloud
00:55:13a whiteout and if you can imagine
00:55:15snow is white
00:55:16you have white clouds
00:55:18it changes
00:55:20everything
00:55:40What are you there?
00:55:43How are you?
00:55:45I'm 6-4
00:55:46I can't believe it
00:55:47I can't believe it
00:55:59I can't believe it
00:56:00I can't believe it
00:56:08I can't believe it
00:56:10I can't believe it
00:56:17I can't believe it
00:56:19I can't believe it
00:56:32if you're moving
00:56:32or you're standing still
00:56:34you can't tell if you're going fast or slow
00:56:38you can't tell if the slope falls away
00:56:41if it flattens out
00:56:42you can't see crevasse
00:56:45that's one of the most dangerous conditions you can have
00:56:48I can't believe it
00:56:49I can't believe it
00:56:51okay
00:56:51here
00:56:52here
00:56:52here
00:56:53here
00:56:53here
00:56:54here
00:56:54here
00:56:55here
00:56:55here
00:56:55here
00:56:55here
00:56:55here
00:56:56here
00:56:57here
00:56:57here
00:56:57here
00:56:57here
00:56:58here
00:56:59here
00:56:59here
00:56:59etme
00:57:00here
00:57:00here
00:57:00here
00:57:01here
00:57:01here
00:57:01here,
00:57:04here
00:57:04I think, Jendrek, you have to take a look at the decision.
00:57:09Fuck!
00:57:11Bartek, I'm going to go to you.
00:57:13I'm going to go to you.
00:57:15I'm going to go.
00:57:29On stawia troszeczkę tak jakby wszystko na jedną kartę, tak?
00:57:32Ma dosyć cienki kombinezon, pod tym jest tylko powiedzmy sobie bielizna,
00:57:36a na zewnątrz jest minus 30.
00:57:46Po wielu godzinach wydostałem się ze strefy śmierci.
00:57:51W powietrzu jest coraz więcej tlenu.
00:57:55Niedługo dotrę do Janusza, który czeka na mnie w obozie trzecim.
00:57:59Tymczasem muszę się śpieszyć.
00:58:01Ten kocioł wygląda bardzo niebezpiecznie.
00:58:12Na 8,000 metrach skidestów,
00:58:15myślę, że najważniejszą część jest,
00:58:17kiedy i kiedy trzeba wyjechać śpiewanie.
00:58:20Zobaczcie, żeby wyjechać śpiewanie,
00:58:22żeby nie wyjechać śpiewanie,
00:58:24i jeszcze nie ma łatwiejsze wyjechać.
00:58:28Zostałam na wprost są skały.
00:58:30Musisz je ominąć z twojej prawej.
00:58:32Cały czas będę mówił o twoich kierunkach.
00:58:35Twoja prawa.
00:58:36It's very, very high stakes
00:58:38in terms of just kind of your logistical planning
00:58:42and understanding of the ski descent.
00:59:04You have to have a mental map of where you're going,
00:59:10because you're literally mapping the route out for yourself
00:59:15when you're going down.
00:59:24It's important to have that mental map and clarity
00:59:28because that couloir that looks just like that couloir
00:59:32ends in a thousand-foot cliff.
00:59:39It's very clean.
00:59:42We're in the distance.
00:59:45But I can see it all safely.
00:59:53This is maybe the part I love most about skiing in the high mountains
01:00:13because your focus has to be 100%.
01:00:18This level of hazard below you means you are here and nowhere else.
01:00:23It's just you and your skills and your decision-making every turn.
01:00:51The next moment was the meeting with Janusz, who was still in the third race.
01:00:56Oh boy!
01:00:57Andrzej...
01:00:58I don't know what to say.
01:01:01Andrzej...
01:01:01When Andrzej was here, it was like that.
01:01:02I'm very happy that he was in Wieszołku, because it's nice.
01:01:04In a good style.
01:01:05As the first Polish, he made the whole bus course in Wieszołku.
01:01:09There are still a few technical fragments, plus the fatal travers of Messner.
01:01:22To push into that unknown space, having people you can rely on and trust is important.
01:01:30You need everything to get down.
01:01:36You have to get down.
01:01:37It's all the way to do.
01:01:41You were laying in the water.
01:01:42You came to the water.
01:01:43And you're going to go to the water in the water.
01:01:46You're going to go to the water there.
01:01:47You're going to go to the water in the water.
01:03:33We're starting to see the possibilities of what drones could do.
01:03:48The equipment has just made it possible to do what Andrzej has done.
01:03:53It's a complete game changer.
01:05:42Transcription by CastingWords
01:05:45CastingWords
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