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Angela Rippons River Cruises S01E01
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00:03I'm Angela Rippon. I've spent decades working as a broadcast journalist, but now I'm bringing you
00:10some very different global stories as I explore the world by river cruise. That's the thing with
00:17this river, there's always something to see. So join me on a breathtaking journey of discovery.
00:24We're underway. In Austria, we'll whirl round the magical ballrooms. Try to make it faster. One,
00:33two, three, four, five, six. In Vietnam's Ho Chi Minh City, we'll be going for a spin.
00:39It's a majestic building. And in the trash old Kajapet forest, we'll slow things down a bit
00:46in stunning tranquility. This is so lovely. In Germany, I get ahead with some Hollywood
00:54stardust. Is that Johnny Depp's hat? Yes. And in Cambodia, we'll indulge in some scrumptious
01:01street food. Watch that. Crickets. This time in Budapest, a poignant monument moves me to tears.
01:20I don't think I've ever seen a more telling reminder of how cruel mankind can be. In Vienna,
01:28I'm enchanted by an equine ballet. You fear you want to fly when he does that, but you can't.
01:35In Krems, we witness a magnificent abbey with a stunning interior and a culinary secret.
01:43Tasting. You've been waiting for this since the beginning. That's the reason why I'm here.
01:48In Dernstein, we discover how a medieval castle has connections close to home.
01:54Richard the Lionheart, who was kept here as our prisoner.
02:26I've just traveled up the steep 95 meters from the river to Buda Castle Hill, a UNESCO World Heritage
02:34site. I'm in Hungary's capital city, Budapest, where my waltz along the venue begins. And up here,
02:41this is the best place to get a view of the river that's going to be my guide for the
02:45next few days.
02:48What a glorious view of the river Danube in this early morning sunshine as this mighty river slices
02:56through Budapest. I think it's been a good 10 years since I was last in this city and it's going
03:04to be so
03:04exciting discovering this river all over again. There are going to be wonderful things to see,
03:11new experiences to have, the music, the architecture, the culture in each different country.
03:19And my traveling companion is right there, the river Danube.
03:26I'll be joining my ship later and will then sail west to the Austrian city of Vienna,
03:32and then into the Wachau Valley and the towns of Krems and Dernstein.
03:38My cruise then continues to Brandstadt, where I'll detour to Salzburg, and then pass through the
03:45German city of Passau, before heading on to Regensburg. For the last leg of the cruise,
03:50I'll come off the Danube and onto the main Danube canal, sailing through the continental divide as we
03:57head to Nuremberg, and on to my final destination, Bamberg. It's going to be quite the journey.
04:08I flew to Budapest to meet my ship, but I've got some time before I can hop on board,
04:14so I'm taking this opportunity to meet a local guide, Andrea.
04:20Hello, are you Andrea? Yes, I am. Oh, hi, Andrea. So nice to meet you.
04:24What a magnificent backdrop. What a perfect place to meet you.
04:27Yes, exactly. What a place. Oh, this is fantastic.
04:34Budapest is only one of the four capital cities that are on the Danube,
04:38which is more than any other river. It's also a very popular city,
04:43full of tourists who come for the historic buildings and the ancient thermal spas.
04:48The view from here is magnificent, Andrea, isn't it? Just talk me through what we can see.
04:54Yes, so basically we can see the entire Pesht side of Budapest, which is...
04:59Because we're in Buda. We are on the Buda side.
05:01Yes, that's the first thing to know, that this is Buda side, the other side is the Pesht side.
05:06You can see it's so much larger than the Buda side. Until 1873, the capital of Hungary wasn't even
05:12Budapest, but only Buda, only this side. This side.
05:16Budapest was once three cities, Buda, Obuda and Pesht. But they were combined to form the current capital city.
05:24Where we are right now in Buda Castle is the old historical area of Budapest. And the Pesht side is
05:30a much more cosmopolitan, grandiose, European style, but primarily 19th century settlement.
05:36And tell me about where we are here. So we are standing right now on the top of the Fisherman's
05:41Bastion.
05:42When Nataya's church was beautifully restored, they finished it in the late 1800s. The architect,
05:47who was an outstanding Hungarian architect, built Fisherman's Bastion, which is a lookout terrace.
05:51But why fishermen? The reason is that down below us, close to the river, there used to be the former
05:57fish market, and fishermen were the guards for this area of Buda Castle, and that's why it was given
06:02the name the Fisherman's Bastion. Walking tours, like the ones led by Andrea, are the ideal way to have
06:09a whistle-stop tour of what is a sprawling city. So the chain bridge was designed by William Tierney
06:17Clark, British architect. And it's very familiar to British people, particularly people who
06:21live in London, because this is a copy, isn't it, of a bridge that is in Hammersmith in London?
06:29Yes, absolutely. And why are there holes in the middle of the flags?
06:33Yes, so the flags are the reminders of the 1956 uprising. When the uprising started out, the angry
06:40local people cut the communist coat of arms from the flags. Within two weeks, the uprising was
06:47squashed by the Soviets, with over two and a half thousand Hungarians killed. This is a reminder of
06:52that uprising in 1956, the communist invasion of Hungary, wasn't it? Absolutely.
06:59The Pest side of the river, whilst still historic, is a much more vibrant and trendy part of the city.
07:06So it's time for a coffee and a sit down. This is an area which is very cosmopolitan. You have
07:13lots of local
07:13people. You have people that come here for the weekend from surrounding countries. It's a mixture
07:19of different people and of all ages as well. We're in the heart of the Jewish district, which is not
07:25just important historically to Budapest, but also in terms of the culture of the city. Yes, absolutely.
07:33So this used to be a very flourishing area of the city up until the Second World War. So it
07:39started out
07:39with Spanish Jews coming from Spain in 1492 and were not allowed to buy land within the city.
07:46So just outside of the city wall was the area where they bought their lands. And here there was a
07:52kosher butcher and different synagogues. It was a very vibrant flourishing area for the Jewish population.
07:59But all that changed during the Second World War. What happened to this whole area?
08:04After the mass deportation started in the spring of 1944, in this area there were still thousands
08:11of Jewish people and many of them died because of the terrible conditions during the siege of Budapest.
08:17The whole place was sieged, wasn't it? They weren't allowed in or out.
08:20And because of the hardships, because of the cold weather, starvation, many Jewish people died in this
08:26area. That's why they're buried in the middle of the city, as it were, behind the synagogue.
08:31That's right. So it's actually the courtyard of the synagogue where the special permission was given
08:36by the rabbi to bury more than 2,000 victims over there.
08:46It's a somber reminder of the past. The history of the Jewish community in Budapest is marked by tragedy.
08:55And having said goodbye to Andrea, I'm going to visit a stark reminder of that time, immortalised in a unique
09:03memorial by the river.
09:08Back in the winter of 1944, when we were getting right to the end of the Second World War,
09:15here in the city of Budapest, Jewish people were being given sanctuary in the homes of ordinary Hungarians.
09:24But at the same time, there was a pro-Nazi, fascist Hungarian group who were called the Arrow Cross.
09:39Over the winter,
09:43they took those people out of the homes where they were being given sanctuary.
09:49And they brought them to the banks of the Danube.
09:54They lined them up, they shot them, and pushed their bodies into the river.
10:02But before they did, they made them take their shoes off, because they wanted their shoes.
10:18Just makes me feel sad.
10:22I don't think...
10:25I don't think I've ever seen...
10:28a more telling reminder of how cruel mankind can be.
10:37Created in 2005, this haunting memorial represents 60 pairs of the victim's shoes.
10:46It's so easy when you're travelling to do the fun things.
10:49But for me, learning about a country's history helps you better understand it,
10:54even if you do have to confront the horrors of the past.
10:59And I know this image will stay with me.
11:10For now, I must leave the capital, as I need to get on board Scenic Amber,
11:15my home for the next seven nights.
11:19Bye-bye, Budapest.
11:21We're underway.
11:24So this is where our voyage of adventure really begins.
11:41Coming up...
11:43Angela, if you would be so kind.
11:44We'll whirl around an iconic Viennese dance school and learn how to Viennese waltz.
11:50And be dazzled by the stunning horses of the acclaimed Spanish riding school.
11:55There you are.
11:56Just touch his nose first.
11:57Just touch his nose first.
11:58Now you can have your sugar.
12:10I'm on my great river cruise journey, heading west along the Danube.
12:15And as the guests settle in for a day on the river, I'm up on the deck, taking in the
12:20sights.
12:21We're travelling through four of the ten different countries that the Danube passes through.
12:26And although we just sail past Slovakia, there is still plenty to see from the deck.
12:32We're sailing through Bratislava, which is the capital of Slovakia.
12:38And we're just going through the old part of the city here with the white castle up on the hill
12:44there.
12:45That white building is Bratislava Castle, the former seat of the royals and now a museum.
12:52And can you see behind me that thing up there?
12:54They call it the UFO. It's a restaurant.
12:57When this country was under communist rule, apparently the communist leaders used to go and have their lunch up there
13:02so they could look down on the city and make sure that everything was as it should be.
13:12After a day gently sailing along the Danube, we've arrived in Vienna, Austria's capital.
13:19Good morning.
13:22Nearly half a million cruisers visit this city every year to take in a place that's renowned
13:27for its quality of life and for its culture.
13:35The city of music and of dreams and of some quite extraordinary and beautiful architecture.
13:44The Habsburgs, who ruled here from, what, 1282, were rich, so rich, that they wanted to make this a city
13:53of culture.
13:54Everywhere you look, they've left their stamp and they had 600 years in which to do it.
14:01And, oh, my goodness, what the Habsburgs have done with those six centuries is extraordinary,
14:07because as well as attracting a lot of musicians, I think they must have obviously attracted some stunning architects.
14:14These artists and intellectuals flocked to the cafes of Vienna, which became places for creative people to meet and socialise.
14:24So what better way to start your day than at one such place, Cafe Central.
14:33Look at that ceiling. Oh, this is so beautiful.
14:40Oh, my goodness. Just look. The cakes here are just divine.
14:48This place is famous for them. It's been here since, what, 1876?
14:55Throughout the 150 years that this place has been serving coffee,
14:59you might have bumped into a rich collection of historical figures,
15:03all sharing their creativity and spurring each other on,
15:08along with enjoying some Viennese classics, like Zaka Torta.
15:12Thank you. Thank you. Oh, my gosh.
15:16And that's caramel. And then the chocolate sour, and all the rest, one Zaka cake, it's a bit green.
15:23Thank you so much.
15:26Coffee Houses, we're a hub for the innovators here in the world of music,
15:31the arts of commerce and the politics.
15:36I was just thinking how wonderful it would be to come here and sit here and have tea, for instance,
15:42with perhaps Gustav Mahler, the composer sitting there, or Puccini.
15:47Imagine sitting in over a cream cake, discussing with them the music that they'd written.
15:53But it wasn't always the nicest of people who were attracted to Vienna.
15:56I think it was 1913 when this city played host to Hitler, Trotsky, Tito and Stalin.
16:07I think that those four might have actually turned the cream in these delicious cakes quite sour.
16:14And that would be a real shame.
16:17Especially as this peanut caramel slice is a delightful, gooey, sweet and salty treat,
16:25with just a hint of rich chocolate.
16:27But I can't soak up the atmosphere here all day,
16:30because I'm off to the Hofburg Palace.
16:34It was originally built for the Habsburg dynasty,
16:36as a grand home and a base from which to run the country.
16:39And it covered 60 acres.
16:42This is one of those places you absolutely have to visit in Vienna,
16:46because it's full of history and is now a cultural hotspot,
16:51including museums and event spaces.
16:53And it's here at the Winter Riding School in the Palace
16:57that the famous Spanish Riding School trains.
17:01When I was in my 30s, I moved to live on the edge of Dartmoor,
17:05so I learnt to ride.
17:07I got a horse and I used to ride her over the mall.
17:11And that was when I learnt and discovered the joy of being able to ride,
17:16being at one in harmony with another living creature.
17:21Famous for their ballet of the white stallions,
17:24the Spanish Riding School of Vienna opened in 1565.
17:28It preserves the tradition of dressage,
17:31where a horse and rider work as one,
17:34to pull off delicate moves of strength, agility and elegance.
17:39They only ride Lipizzana stallions,
17:41descended from a Spanish breed that was imported to the school when it opened,
17:45hence the name, the Spanish Riding School.
17:55I've arranged to meet Marius, who joined the school 30 years ago,
17:59and now trains horses and new riders, as well as performing in the shows.
18:05I have to say, I am in horse heaven here, but this is not your average stable, is it?
18:12We have here space for 71 horses.
18:15Yeah?
18:15Yes, and one of my special horse you will see here.
18:19Who's this?
18:20This is Maestoso Alia.
18:22Hello.
18:23He's 19 years old.
18:24I perform him in the performance for the schools above the ground, and I do levade.
18:31Yeah.
18:32Moves that are referred to as above the ground are highly skilled movements,
18:37where the horse literally leaves the floor. That's all that very sort of advanced dressage,
18:43isn't it?
18:43Yes, it is.
18:43When did you start riding?
18:45I started riding when I was 12, so around 12 years old, and I'm here since 1996.
18:55Oh, the joy you must have felt the first time you went into the arena on your horse,
19:00was that special?
19:01It was very, very special.
19:03Yes. I think my whole life, it will stay in my brain.
19:07It can take a whopping 12 years to be fully qualified as a rider and performer at this school.
19:13What is the sensation you get when you're on your favorite horse?
19:19I think when you know a horse like him for 15 years, we learn together and we train together.
19:26Excuse me, you are photobombing our shot. You do realize that, don't you?
19:32Sorry, you were saying.
19:35So after five years, you get to have, you can ride a full trained horse?
19:43Well, it seems a layer is more taken with my cameraman than with us,
19:47but Marius has just the thing to get his attention.
19:53Let me touch his nose.
19:57He's laughing.
20:02You want to try it?
20:03Can I? There we go.
20:04Just touch his nose.
20:05Just touch his nose first.
20:06There we go. Now you can have your sugar.
20:09There you go.
20:10Marius and Alea are off to train.
20:15Fortunately for me and my cruising friends, you can come along and watch these sessions most mornings,
20:21getting a chance to see for yourself just how talented the riders and their horses are.
20:32Watching the elegance and grace of these beautiful animals working in harmony with their skilled riders
20:38is almost like watching a ballet, especially in this stunning baroque setting.
20:51To witness this living, breathing historical institution is a never-to-be-forgotten experience.
21:12It's wonderful to watch the horses there showing what they do in training. It isn't a sport, this.
21:18It's an art form. And if you love horses,
21:21oh, coming and watching a performance or even the training like that is, it's an absolute joy.
21:40My next adventure requires a quick trip back to the ship so that I can get a change of outfit,
21:45because I'm going to be putting myself through some paces.
21:51OK, I cannot come to Vienna and not learn how to do a Viennese waltz properly.
21:57So I've come to the top dance school in the city and a couple of friends from the ship are
22:05going to join me to give it a whirl.
22:12Here at the Elmire Dance School, they've been teaching students of all ages for over a hundred years.
22:20Hi, Hilda, Joe, Mike, Leslie.
22:23Hello.
22:24Oh, this is going to be fun, isn't it?
22:25Yes, it really is.
22:27Emerging in the ballrooms of Vienna in the late 18th century,
22:30the fast-paced Viennese waltz is, in fact, the original waltz,
22:35with the slower waltz, or English waltz, developed later.
22:39Hello, Bernie.
22:40Hello.
22:41Nice to meet you.
22:42Today, the school director, Bernie, is going to teach us all how to spin the light fantastic.
22:48How long have you been dancing the waltz?
22:49I've been dancing for more than 25 years now, and it takes some time to practice.
22:54You have loads of balls here in Vienna, don't you?
22:56We have about 450 ball festivities each year in Austria.
23:02Well, we might not have 25 years to learn, but if anyone can teach us, it's Bernie.
23:08First up, a demonstration.
23:09Every time I take a turn, I try to make it to turn more and try to make it faster.
23:16So one, two, three, four, five, six, one, two, three, four, five, six.
23:20No pressure then. So let's start with the basics.
23:23For the waltz, we need three different types of steps.
23:27So one step to the side. Very good.
23:29And now we close the left foot to the right foot.
23:32One step forward, then to the side, and close.
23:37And while closing, don't forget to shift the weight.
23:40So forward, side change of weight, backward, side change of weight, and forward.
23:47With the steps mastered, it's time to partner up.
23:50And just a tiny bit of pressure here.
23:52Angela, if you would be so kind.
23:54As the other four are in couples, I'm dancing with the teacher.
23:59So she will start left foot backward, and then going right foot forward.
24:06Four, five, and forward, side, close, backward. Oops.
24:12Side, and forward. Side, close, and backward. Here we go. Side.
24:19The Viennese waltz is believed to be the very first ballroom dance in a close hold,
24:25which was seen as rather racy. Now it's our turn to try those dizzying Viennese spins.
24:30And as we're on the Danube, there really is only one piece of music that should be our soundtrack.
24:35This unofficial Austrian anthem, it's called the Blue Danube waltz from Johann Strauss.
24:41Arguably the most beautiful waltz ever written. And let's try it, but slightly faster. Ready?
24:48Here we go.
24:51So one, two, three, four, five, and one, two, three, four, five, six.
25:07Should. Should we swap directions? Yes.
25:11OK. So, one, two, three, four, five, six.
25:23With such an iconic piece of music playing, it's like being taken back to the glittering age of ballroom.
25:33Thank you very much.
25:34What a fabulously culture-filled day I've had in Vienna.
25:38But for now, it's time to head back to my ship.
25:42And I dare say I'll be waltzing the whole way there.
25:52Coming up, I'm astounded by the thousand-year-old Gutwig Abbey.
25:58How many adjectives can you use to describe this?
26:01It's breathtaking.
26:02And I'm fascinated by the many things that the monks produce from apricots.
26:07Please tell me you don't put apricot jam on the sausages.
26:10No, no, never, never.
26:21I'm on a cruise along the great river that runs through central Europe, the Danube.
26:30When you're enjoying a leisurely sail on the river, dinner is a great time to make new friends
26:36and find out what draws them to this iconic waterway.
26:48You're both from Canada, aren't you?
26:53Correct, yes.
26:53Where in Canada?
26:54Uh, Ontario.
26:56Right at the bottom of Lake Huron.
26:57Oh, you're on the lake?
26:58Right at the bottom of Lake Huron, yes.
26:59So you're used to being near the river then, aren't you?
27:01Yeah, there's the river, the lake, and then the river, yes.
27:04Awesome.
27:05Cheers.
27:05Cheers.
27:05Yeah, cheers.
27:06Cheers.
27:07Cheers, cheers.
27:08Cheers.
27:08Wonderful dinner.
27:10To our river cruise.
27:12But why a trip down the Danube?
27:14We just were so fascinated that we would be going to so many countries along this river.
27:20And just the scenery.
27:21Oh, the scenery.
27:22Well, the scenery is, yeah.
27:23And the castles, uh, the churches, just magical.
27:27And all of it's so old.
27:29I mean, the number of places that we've visited that were here in the 12th century.
27:34It is an interesting way to discover a continent, actually, isn't it, by sailing down a river.
27:39Oh, you get a flavor of every, every, you know, country and every, every city.
27:44I always think that Buddha, when you look at it from the Peche side, you look across,
27:49and there's one little bit of it that looks as if it should be part of a Disney set.
27:54You know, you expect Tinkerbell to come flying over the top of it anyway.
27:57Yeah, exactly, yeah, yeah.
27:58It's like a picture.
27:59And it's not just scenery.
28:01My fellow travelers are taking every opportunity to experience all that the Danube has to offer,
28:07including the food.
28:09I love the fact that we get to eat the foods of the, uh, region.
28:16Yeah.
28:16So as we travel down the Danube, you know, the menu shifts.
28:21So when you go back to Canada, what are the memories you'll take back of, of this river and this
28:28trip?
28:28Well, you know what memory I'll have?
28:30Our time right now at this moment.
28:33Absolutely.
28:34To travel.
28:35Travel.
28:36Yes.
28:41The next day, we've traveled almost 50 nautical miles from Vienna to reach our next destination,
28:49the city of Krems.
28:51It's the oldest city in lower Austria, and it's a popular stop for cruise ships,
28:57as it's part of the Wachau Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage site that's celebrated
29:02as one of Europe's most stunning river valleys.
29:06And this whole area is renowned for its beauty, for its wildlife, for its history.
29:12When you look at the hills behind, we are surrounded by vineyards.
29:16So this whole area produces some pretty impressive wine, as well as apricots.
29:23You can't go far on the Danube without finding something really wonderful to eat and drink.
29:31Just a short trip from the dock is Gutwig Abbey.
29:35I'm told it's a must-see if you visit Krems for its architecture and history.
29:41Around 34 monks still practice here, and I've arranged to meet one of them,
29:46to learn more about the monastery and its culinary secrets.
29:53Hello, welcome to Gutwig Abbey.
29:55Father Pius, how lovely to see you.
29:57Hi, Angela, nice to meet you.
29:58My goodness, you live in a magnificent place, don't you?
30:01Isn't that a lovely place, yeah?
30:03How do you feel living here?
30:04I've lived here for nearly 30 years. I became a monk in 1996.
30:09And always, when I'm driving towards Gutwig, when I see our monastery on the top of the hill,
30:15my heart is always beating.
30:16I'm not surprised. It is a magnificent building and very much a tourist attraction.
30:20About 125,000 guests every year are coming to Gutwig Abbey.
30:26Most of them by ships.
30:28They are cruising on the river Danube because we're here in the Wachel Valley next to the river.
30:33Founded in 1083, the original abbey was destroyed by fire in the 18th century,
30:38but it was rebuilt and is now baroque splendor at its finest.
30:44And behind that facade...
30:47Gosh.
30:51Oh, Father Pius, this is magnificent.
30:53You didn't expect that, right?
30:55You would never expect this from outside.
30:58No, no, because the church can't be seen from outside.
31:00And this is the beating heart of the monastery,
31:03where the monks are gathering five times during the day for the prayers.
31:10What a glorious place to pray.
31:13Look at that organ, for instance.
31:15Yeah.
31:15You could just have pipes.
31:16Look at it.
31:17The organ is from 1703, a mechanical stop organ, and it still works.
31:22It's in itself, it's a work of art.
31:25Frescoes, the gold, the panelling, and the colour of blue absolutely everywhere.
31:32And the reason is, the Blessed Virgin Mary is patron saint of our monastery,
31:36and in arts, blue is a sign of royalty.
32:01It's truly humbling standing in a building like this.
32:05The attention to detail and craftsmanship is simply stunning.
32:10It's not just the buildings that are impressive.
32:14It's also the 60-plus acres of vineyards,
32:17which get me one step closer to those culinary secrets.
32:22Wow.
32:24That's spectacular.
32:25This view is just spectacular, isn't it?
32:29I mean, how many adjectives can you use to describe this?
32:32It's breathtaking.
32:33It's awesome.
32:34It's gorgeous.
32:35It's unique, because from here you see the river Danube.
32:38This is the direction to Vienna.
32:40Yes.
32:40Then you see Krems, and behind Krems,
32:43the border of the Czech Republic, all the vineyards here.
32:46These are your vineyards, are they?
32:48Not all, but the majority of our vineyards are here in this direction.
32:54And it's in their orchards that you'll find that secret ingredient, apricots.
32:59They turn this delicious fruit into a number of products to help generate an income for the Abbey.
33:04And Father Pius has invited us into the kitchens to learn just some of what can be done with an
33:10apricot.
33:11So this is the place where we produce the apricot jam.
33:15Hello. Oh, the jam.
33:16Hello.
33:16Hello. I'm Angela.
33:18Do you want one?
33:19Oh, I better put a pinion on.
33:20Yes, I suppose so.
33:21Yes, there we go.
33:23The jam starts life as one part fruit to one part sugar, with some vanilla thrown in for good measure.
33:29It has to simmer about five to ten minutes.
33:31Have they always been making jam here in the monastery?
33:34Yeah, it's typical.
33:35Typical.
33:35We love it for breakfast.
33:37So it's apricot jam with your toast in the morning, not marmalade?
33:40No apricot jam.
33:42Every time?
33:42Not every time. Sometimes we have sausages as well.
33:48Please tell me you don't put apricot jam on the sausages.
33:51No, no, never, never. Mustard.
33:53But maybe mustard be the flavor of apricot. We have this in the shop.
33:59Apricot-flavored mustard? That's new to me.
34:02I don't think you just produce jam out of the apricot, do you?
34:05We produce other things as well.
34:06We produce juice, for example, just to depress the fresh fruit.
34:10And then we have the juice.
34:12Brandy, schnapps, liqueur, sparkling wine.
34:16Yeah.
34:17You get your value out of your apricot trees, don't you?
34:20You really do.
34:21So presumably the whole monastery is involved in this.
34:24Each monk has got his own job or work to do.
34:28This is a very old tradition. Saint Benedict writes in his rule,
34:33there must be always a balance between work and prayer.
34:37Now, I did say I was going to help out, but I have got a bit carried away just chatting
34:42to Father Pius.
34:43Now comes the best part of the cooking demonstration.
34:47The tasting.
34:48You've been waiting for this since the beginning, haven't you?
34:50That's the reason why I'm here.
34:51The second class for you.
34:53That's for you.
34:57Oh, yeah.
34:58That on a breakfast muffin or toast.
35:01Perfect.
35:02Perfect.
35:02Perfect.
35:03Well, there are no breakfast muffins here.
35:06Though Father Pius does have one last treat for me.
35:10Outside, surrounded by the stunning valley view.
35:13We have a special thing for you.
35:15Our famous apricot dumplings.
35:17Yeah.
35:18Guests to the Abbey can take part in a dumpling-making lesson.
35:22And they sell around 18,000 dumplings a year in their restaurant.
35:26And of course, that's not all.
35:30This is the apricot sparkling wine.
35:32Look at that.
35:34Inside the dumpling, there is the apricot.
35:38Excellent.
35:39The sweet center of the dumpling, a whole apricot.
35:46This is absolutely superb.
35:48Father Pius, your good health.
35:52And your apricots.
35:54Thank you very much for your visit.
35:56Come back soon, and God bless you.
36:00And just in case you were wondering what I thought of the dumplings.
36:03Anybody want to try this?
36:05Because it's lovely.
36:10Well, I came here to explore the beautiful architecture
36:14overflowing with history.
36:16But I think I'll be staying just a little longer to indulge in all the apricots that I possibly can.
36:23Coming up.
36:24Ready?
36:25Yeah.
36:26Ready.
36:27I'm blown away by the beauty and history of one of Europe's most popular cycle routes.
36:32Such fun.
36:33It's been lovely.
36:36And the dramatic Dernstein Castle's horrible history is revealed.
36:43Richard the Lionheart, who was kept here as our prisoner.
36:56I'm on a great river cruise journey on the Danube.
37:01I've seen the Wackau Valley whilst sailing along the Danube and from high up at Gutwig Abbey.
37:08But there's another great way of seeing this landscape.
37:12The next stop on my trip down the Danube is the medieval town of Dernstein.
37:19I've discovered that the Danube has a cycle path.
37:23So I've actually decided that it would be rather nice to cycle to Dernstein and get a whole new feel
37:32for this, not just the river, but this rather beautiful valley that it flows through.
37:36So, um, on your bike, Rippon.
37:39Here we go.
37:41It's just a five-mile cycle ride to Dernstein, but the Danube cycle path stretches almost the
37:48full length of the river, all 1,770 miles of it.
37:52But since that would take four to six weeks, I'll save that for next time.
37:57First, it's time to meet my guide, Thomas, who leads cycling tours here.
38:01Hello, Thomas.
38:03Hello, how are you doing?
38:04I'm Angela. Hello. Thank you for bringing the bicycle for me.
38:07Nice to meet you.
38:08Yes.
38:08I'm so looking forward to doing this.
38:10While Thomas has provided the bikes today, many river cruise companies, like mine,
38:14have e-bikes on board so that you can borrow them to explore the places where they dock.
38:20Okay.
38:20Ready?
38:20Yep.
38:21Ready.
38:21Let's see.
38:24It's no surprise that this is one of Europe's most popular cycle routes, and this stretch
38:29is thought to be one of the most scenic sections.
38:33And exploring by e-bike gives you a unique view of what life along the banks of the Danube is
38:38like.
38:39It's clearly a very popular thing to do to cycle along here, isn't it?
38:43Yes.
38:44It's an international cycle route.
38:53And look all around.
38:54These would be the vineyards.
38:56We're surrounded by vineyards.
38:57What is it about this valley, you think, that makes it so beautiful and so special?
39:02Oh, it's the beautiful landscape.
39:04Mm-hmm.
39:05It's the many layers of history.
39:08These stony walls, which are also on our right, some of them are 600 to 700 years old.
39:16Really?
39:16These are very typical for Wachau, because the hillsides are so steep that you need to terrace
39:22them in order to cultivate the grapes on them.
39:26After a jam-packed cruising schedule, cycling through this stunning scenery is pure bliss.
39:36So we're cruising through the romantic winemaking village.
39:39Mm-hmm.
39:41Several families making wine.
39:44In the valley, around 220 families make wine.
39:48One village can have around 20, 30 wineries.
39:52You just come here, knock on doors, and taste them beautiful wines.
39:56While it might not be something to do on a cycling tour,
40:00visitors to the valley can pop into the wineries for drop-in wine tastings.
40:05But we're continuing on to Dernstein.
40:09Dernstein, we call it the medieval village of the valley.
40:13And you can find buildings there from the 14th and 13th century.
40:18Probably the most known building is the castle above the village.
40:22On the right? Is that the castle up there on the right?
40:24Correct. The Dernstein castle towering just above the village of Dernstein.
40:29This castle made the valley famous because of Richard the Lionheart, who was captive here
40:36as our prisoner.
40:38Richard was captured near Vienna on the way home from the Crusades in 1192,
40:43and he was held in Dernstein for several months.
40:46He was finally released after a massive ransom of 150,000 silver marks was paid.
40:53And the ransom which we got for him kept us going for a while.
41:00We built fortifications from this money. We minted our first currency upon this silver.
41:07Yeah. So it was a wise investment. Thank you for that.
41:14You're welcome. And after a lovely, leisurely cycle, my ship has beaten us to Dernstein.
41:19So I'm going to need to hop on board and head towards the next leg of my adventure.
41:25I've had such fun. It's been lovely.
41:30I'm glad to hear that.
41:32Oh, and you've been the perfect guide.
41:33Well, thank you very much.
41:35So thank you so much.
41:35You're a perfect guest.
41:37Pleasure's on my side. Thank you very much.
41:53What a wonderful travel companion the Blue Danube has been so far.
41:58We've sailed through European history and culture,
42:01seen how it's grown and developed over the years.
42:04And there have been times when there have been quite a few treats for me personally.
42:11There are still hundreds of miles of this river still to be explored.
42:16And as our journey continues in the golden evening light, I can't wait.
42:24Next time, we travel to Salzburg, birthplace of the musical genius Mozart.
42:30He was like the Beatles of his day, wasn't he?
42:32Yeah, exactly.
42:32Dine out at the world's oldest bratwurst kitchen in Regensburg.
42:36Can I have one sausage?
42:38OK, with mustard?
42:39Oh, yes.
42:40And sauerkraut?
42:41Everything.
42:42And embrace a centuries-old Bavarian folk dance.
42:55And you can see that next Saturday at 8.
42:58Can three 20-somethings shun their shopaholic ways and muck in on a hippie commune?
43:03Brand new series Trading Places starts tomorrow at 9 or stream it all first on 5.
43:08From the Queen Mother to Queen Camilla.
43:11Have strong female influences guided his rule?
43:13Charles, the women who made the king, is brand new next.
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