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00:04Japan.
00:05Michael, welcome to Japan, a railway paradise.
00:08Its huge population, spread over Long Islands, lives by its railways.
00:13Do like I'm driving.
00:14My new adventure takes me through the land that launched the high-speed train.
00:19I love Shinkansen.
00:21Where millions of journeys are made each day through some of the most bustling stations on Earth.
00:27Busy city.
00:28I'll ride Japan's vast railway network to uncover a land of bold innovation.
00:35Haven't quite got the hang of it yet.
00:37A place of enduring traditions, volatile geology and remarkable people.
00:44Kanpai.
00:45Join me on an excursion like no other.
00:48I'm too excited to sit down.
01:08Today, my route is taking me to the country's wildest and most northern region.
01:15I'm travelling, as usual in Japan at high speed, from the largest to the second largest island.
01:21From Honshu to Hokkaido.
01:24There could be big surprises ahead.
01:27Hokkaido became part of Japan only in the late 19th century.
01:30And looking back 12,000 years, it was connected to Siberia by land.
01:37So its climate, its wildlife and its people are distinct.
01:50To cross the sea, we're going underground.
01:54This is the Seikan tunnel, which passes under the Suguru Strait between Honshu and Hokkaido.
02:01It was opened in 1988 to carry both Shinkansen and narrow gauge railways.
02:08The part that is underwater is not as long as the channel tunnel between England and France.
02:14But overall, this tunnel is longer.
02:18It passes under the seabed at a depth of 100 metres.
02:22And in the tunnel, trains are authorised to travel at up to 160 miles per hour.
02:35Starting in the megalopolis of Tokyo on Honshu Island, I continue to Fukushima and then Sendai.
02:43On Hokkaido Island, I'll explore the coastal city of Hakodate, the volcanic lake Toya,
02:50and Sapporo, the island's capital, before finishing in the port of Otaru.
03:01After 33 and a half miles of tunnel, my mole-like Jinkansen pops out,
03:07and I have my first glimpse of Hokkaido.
03:14The island makes up a fifth of Japan's land mass,
03:18but it's home to just a twentieth of the population.
03:22Lots of pine forest looks quite different.
03:46My first stop is Hakodate, the island's third largest city with a population of just over 290,000.
03:56At the tip of the Oshima Peninsula, it lies at the foot of Mount Hakodate, which rises 1,100 feet.
04:06On its lower slopes, overlooking the bay, is the historic neighbourhood of Motomachi.
04:12It was established from the 1850s, when Hakodate became one of the earliest Japanese ports
04:19to start trading with the outside world.
04:22This is a part of town where there was a lot of foreign influence when Japan was first opened up.
04:27Today it is absolutely gorgeous, full of greenery and steep hills,
04:32old preserved houses and long, long views.
04:41Besides a grand town hall, the area also boasted three churches.
04:52This pretty Russian Orthodox Church was founded in 1858,
04:58at an unusual moment of cordial relations between Japan and Russia.
05:04Often there's tension over Sakhalin Island, which is to the north of Hokkaido, and the Kuril Islands.
05:10In August 1945, the Soviet Union opportunistically declared war on Japan
05:17after the atom bomb had been dropped on Hiroshima.
05:20And as one of the victorious powers, it was rewarded with the Kuril Islands
05:26and a chunk of Sakhalin Island too.
05:28Japan has never accepted that,
05:32and to this day remains wary of its huge neighbours, Russia and China.
05:50I'm travelling a mile east to the waterfront neighbourhood of Sakaijo.
05:59Hakodate's fleet of trams, everyone a different colour it seems,
06:03provides a very good way to see the city.
06:08Dating back to 1913, they were the first to run on the island.
06:12There are two routes with 26 stops, and tickets start at just a pound.
06:20Alongside wasabi and rice, another staple in Japan is miso.
06:26It's a paste which is made from fermented soybean,
06:30and it has a thousand different uses in Japanese cuisine.
06:35A family firm in Hakodate makes it by the ton.
06:40Priced for its rich umami, or savoury taste,
06:44it's a staple ingredient in Japan,
06:46and is thought to have been brought here from China in the 7th century.
06:52Donan Shokoryukogio has been producing its Kiko Kawaichi miso since 1942,
06:58and moved to this traditional factory in the 1960s.
07:02Its owner is Takashi Kawano.
07:06Kawano-san, hello.
07:09I'm Michael.
07:11Very good to see you.
07:13The business was founded by Takashi's grandfather Shigoni.
07:31What do the Japanese people use miso for?
07:43Which I've often enjoyed, and which I absolutely love.
07:48To create the miso paste,
07:50a mould has to be cultivated on steamed rice.
07:53It's also used to make soy sauce and sake.
08:13There were once more than 10 small miso producers in Hakodate.
08:18But now in this city, only this company makes it in the traditional way.
08:23Is Hokkaido a good place to make miso?
08:26HAKODATE
08:27HAKODATE
08:27HAKODATE
08:27HAKODATE
08:28HAKODATE
08:28HAKODATE
08:28HAKODATE
08:29HAKODATE
08:52HAKODATE
08:52Wow!
08:54Look at this great big vat of soybean.
08:58They've offered to show me the ropes.
09:00Right!
09:01Looks like I'm the vat operator.
09:07And down it comes.
09:11They're making very good use of my services here.
09:16right the soybeans are warm and steamy
09:22ah and a wonderful aroma too
09:27as you get to the bottom it's hot
09:40and from spade man to barrow man
09:53for food on an industrial scale this feels small scale and manual it's very charming
10:00we're spreading them out a bit now give them a chance to cool down
10:07i've so often had miso without any idea about how it was made
10:15now the salt's being added and all that gets mixed in
10:21i've often been to food factories and what you normally see there are huge pulsating machines
10:28it's so refreshing to come here and find that the implements are shovels and wheelbarrows and brushes
10:37and a watering can
10:43the mixture is pressed and then stored in an airtight vat
10:47and left to ferment to create the miso paste takashi has some ready for me to try
10:53i certainly would yes please
11:02it's a lovely strong earthy fermented smell
11:14it's quite strong but it's a lovely flavor your miso the miso you make here what's special about it
11:32i'm made with passion and you've got the whole family helping you
11:37i'm made with passion and i'm made with passion and i'm made with passion and i'm made with passion
11:47and i'm made with passion and i'm made with passion
11:47three miles northeast in the center of the city is hakodati's most important historic site
11:54fort koryokaku the 62 acre star-shaped citadel was the setting for the final battle
12:01in the 19th century boshin war that would decide japan's future a critical moment in japanese history
12:09was the ousting of the tokugawa clan from power in 1868 and their replacement by a new government
12:17that restored the emperor as titular head of state and opened up and modernized japan
12:24the last remnants of the tokugawa military forces were chased across honshu and arrived at hakodate
12:33where they made their last stand in this fort today it's a public park but its moat 140 feet at
12:43its
12:44widest has been preserved as a reminder of the history that was made here yukio nakamura is a local guide
12:51in britain past the city of k espera-就可以 andева and each of their acrob Luv design in plaat
12:52in the public park of kooma and the solid and urban ¡hortel unas你 que son vemos!
13:00it's built in a square diameter in the 1960s the corolla and which of the roof of
13:12the land the dakugawa shogunate it a few people could still receive food mostly from the south
13:19the Hakodate region of this island, then known as Ezo.
13:23The fort was built to protect their magistrate's office,
13:26the area's government headquarters, from foreign invaders.
13:30But it would come under attack from within Japan.
13:34Tell me about the Battle of Hakodate.
13:37The old shogun army, they left Edo, which is Tokyo now,
13:44and they stopped at Sendai.
13:46Then they met other soldiers from old shogunate,
13:51and they just got warships and came to Hokkaido.
13:55And the leader was Enomoto Takeaki,
13:57and he was a vice-admiral of old shogunate navy.
14:02They decided to make this fort the base of their army.
14:10In January 1869, they declared a breakaway republic,
14:14with Enomoto Takeaki as president.
14:17But just four months later,
14:19the emperor's warships arrived in the harbour.
14:23How did the battle proceed?
14:25The new government army attacked Hakodate with almost 10,000 soldiers.
14:33Much more than the old shogun army occupied in this area.
14:38About 3,000.
14:39So they were badly outnumbered.
14:41Yes.
14:42The old shogunate army fought hard, but they lasted only a week.
14:50They just surrendered.
14:53Following their victory, the imperial army demolished all of the fort's buildings.
14:57But a faithful reconstruction of the magistrate's office, housing a museum, was opened in 2010.
15:06With the success of the new government forces, that's the end of resistance by the old shogunate,
15:13what is the impact on Hokkaido of that battle?
15:16So, Hokkaido was very much empty area, a big area.
15:24Very small population in Hokkaido at that time.
15:26So, after the war was over, a new government sent a lot of people to build road,
15:34and they, you know, made a lot of effort to develop their farms.
15:40Emperor Meiji's government officially annexed the island in 1869, changing the name from Ezo to Hokkaido,
15:48and sending farmer soldiers, or Tondenhei, to develop and defend the new frontier.
15:54An indigenous ethnic group, the Ainu, who'd lived here for over 10,000 years,
16:00was subjugated and forced to assimilate into Japanese society.
16:05By the end of the Meiji era in 1912, Hokkaido's population had gone from under 60,000 to 1.7
16:13million.
16:14What was the significance of this battle in Japanese history?
16:18This is a kind of a symbol of the change from Edo era to Meiji era.
16:24After the battle was over in here, no more wars, the start of a new modern era of Japan.
16:45I'm leaving the city and continuing north to enjoy the natural beauty for which Hokkaido is famed.
16:54This Hokuto line hugs the Pacific coast, taking me 100 miles to my next destination, Lake Toya.
17:04Although I love the Shinkansen, it's actually quite a relief to journey at a slower speed, a more human velocity,
17:13and on a glorious autumn day to appreciate the landscape without the sound barriers which so often run alongside the
17:24high-speed lines.
17:34This is the least developed of Japan's four main islands, with cooler temperatures, snowy winters and 31 active volcanoes.
17:46The train line skirts around the base of the Hokkaido Komagatake volcano.
17:52It rises to almost 4,000 feet.
17:55It was dormant for nearly 5,000 years.
17:58But in the 1640s, an eruption wiped out the local crops, causing a famine.
18:04And in modern times, there have been about 50 eruptions.
18:13There's no dining car on the train.
18:15But before I boarded, I picked up a takeaway known as an ekiben, or station bento box.
18:22I've got some scallop, some omelette, and crab, for which Hokkaido is famous.
18:29Oh, I also bought a bottle of wine made from cantaloupe melon, for which Hokkaido is also famous.
18:39Unfortunately, I forgot to pick up a glass or a cup.
18:42So, from the bottle...
18:47..so refined.
18:55From the coastal town of Toyako, on Uchiura Bay, it's just a couple of miles inland,
19:02to Lake Toya, part of the Shikotsu Toya National Park.
19:06The near-circular lake, with four islands in the centre, stretches for just over 27 square miles.
19:14With the volcanoes Mount Jotei to the north and Mount Usu to the south,
19:19it's a popular holiday destination, known for its hot springs, hiking trails and wildlife.
19:29On the lake's western shore lies the area of Tsukyura,
19:33where there's a perfect spot to appreciate the beauty.
19:46This pick-your-own-herb farm offers a choice of 40 different varieties.
19:51Konnichiwa!
19:53Visitors can collect their favourite flavours or scents
19:56to create bath salts, incense or herbal tea.
20:01That is divine.
20:03Japan is noted for its spectacular views, but surely, that is one of the best.
20:13Arigato!
20:22This landscape is all about volcanoes.
20:27The lake is a caldera, a dip that's left after an eruption, which then fuels with water.
20:34This happened 110,000 years ago.
20:37But in the 1940s, the newest volcano emerged.
20:42In a matter of days, what had been a flat field became a mountain nearly 1,000 feet high.
20:50The volcanic lava dome was named Showa Shinzan, or New Mountain, reflecting the reign of Emperor Hirohito, known as the
20:58Showa Era.
21:00Imagine what this would have been like during one of those eruptions.
21:04And now it leaves us with one of the most lovely sights that any human being can observe.
21:12This stunning setting has attracted artisan businesses.
21:16And on the lakeshore, you find an outdoor gallery of 58 sculptures.
21:23I'm visiting the artist Daisuke Tokatomi.
21:27He trained at the Tokyo Glass Art Institute, and worked for a company in the capital.
21:32But he opened his studio, GLAGLA, here in 2002, to create his own designs.
21:40Daisuke-san.
21:44Your glass work is absolutely superb.
21:47And you work in clear glass, not colored glass. Why did you make that decision?
22:03I entirely agree. Is it alright if I touch something?
22:06Of course.
22:07Let's look at this piece here.
22:09Which is very lovely.
22:12This is so beautiful and so original. How do you make a shape like this?
22:16I don't use the shape of a glass, but this is made from the surface of the glass.
22:23Alongside tableware, vases and lighting, Daisuke's work also includes large art installations that have been exhibited all over Japan.
22:34Maybe we could go outside?
22:36Yes, of course.
22:37I've just noticed your shoes. How very interesting.
22:59This is so beautiful. Tell me about this creation.
23:04This is so beautiful. Tell me about this creation.
23:13It's hard to get out of there, but to get out of there.
23:21That sounds like a light.
23:22It's nice to make it more severe.
23:23It's interesting.
23:24With great care.
23:31Ah, it's lovely.
23:34When you have a wind, do they all play?
23:48Daisuke and his assistant rely on simple tools
23:52and a mix of gravity and rotation, known as free blowing.
23:56He runs classes here in his workshop.
23:59Ah, the fur is glowing away.
24:02What temperature are we at here?
24:05This is about 1200 degrees.
24:08Today, I'm going to make a plate for a month.
24:12The moon is very important for people living here.
24:15It's very important for people living here.
24:17And my son's name is also known for a month.
24:22And you see the moon here reflected in the lake?
24:25Yes.
24:25Two moons?
24:26Yes.
24:27Yes.
24:28I'm going to wear sunglasses, so I'm going to make it to Michael.
24:34What do you think?
24:36Okay.
24:40I love to watch this.
24:43The glow of the furnace, it's really very hot even at this distance.
24:58How different is life for an artist on Hokkaido from Tokyo?
25:02I don't know.
25:05I don't know.
25:07I don't know.
25:07I don't know.
25:10I don't know.
25:11I don't know.
25:12I don't know.
25:13Making sure the temperature is even.
25:15Glass has to be turned constantly.
25:17Each time it comes out, it's changed shape a little bit.
25:23I don't know.
25:24I don't know.
25:26I don't know.
25:26I don't know.
25:26I don't know.
25:27This is a big responsibility.
25:32Yes.
25:33Open it up.
25:35Up.
25:35Up.
25:37Like that.
25:37Up.
25:39Deeper.
25:41Like that.
25:42Wow, you have to move fast here because that glass is cooling down.
25:46And one thing you have to do is obey orders.
25:48Okay.
25:49Is that okay?
25:49Outer come.
25:50Thanks.
25:58The whole thing is urgent.
26:01You feel a tension at the same time as this creativity.
26:09Oh, it's changed completely.
26:12That is stunning.
26:15From a bowl, it's become a plate.
26:23Now, I'll cut off the little stem.
26:27And it's gone.
26:33And into an oven, which I guess is to slow the rate at which it cools down.
26:37Yes.
26:39Yes.
26:39Yes.
26:39Now, it's at 500 degrees.
26:41Now, it's at night.
26:44It's at night.
26:45It's there.
26:47I can see that that is the moon.
26:49The moon maybe with a little haze in front of it.
26:52Now, these bubbles here.
26:54Yes.
26:55How do you achieve that?
26:55So, this is a tiny water.
27:01The water.
27:03I never thought of that as being a tool of the artist.
27:07It's a most beautiful effect.
27:09What a pleasure to see you.
27:17The Battle of Hakadati settled the future of Japan.
27:22It abandoned feudalism and ponytails and samurai,
27:26and it imported and copied foreign technology
27:29to become important militarily and industrially.
27:34The people, led by an emperor whom they regarded as divine,
27:38who adopted a Western hairstyle and Western clothes,
27:41embraced the change.
27:43The world's great powers, who had patronized Japan
27:47and urged reform, were forced to take her seriously.
27:51And we've since learned never to underestimate Japan.
27:59Next time...
28:00Potatoes, mushrooms, and...
28:04Can you see that?
28:05Oh, look at the salmon's head.
28:08That looks wonderful.
28:11Inside this bottle...
28:1410 nob-hertz.
28:15How did he do that?
28:19Oh, lovely fire in the throat.
28:21I'm not sure I've tasted a Japanese whiskey before.
28:23Really?
28:24And that is a very pleasant start.
28:25Yeah.
28:28All right.
28:49In the call in dramatically.
28:51Look at this outfit.
28:52Got a shape.
28:53I've seen a couple.
28:53Open the appearance.
28:53Yeah, it's got a depiction.
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