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00:00I don't know how to do this
00:37Today on America's Test Kitchen,
00:40Valerie makes Julia of flavorful crab and shrimp stew.
00:44Adam reviews guillotinize.
00:47And Becky makes Julia fresh salmon burgers with sriracha mayonnaise.
00:52It's all coming up right here on America's Test Kitchen.
01:02Seafood stew is loved all over the world,
01:05from the French bouillabaisse to the Brazilian moqueca to San Francisco's own cioppino.
01:10But today, Valerie is going to make her own seafood stew inspired by her home state of Louisiana.
01:15As a Louisiana native, we make a lot of different types of seafood stews.
01:19This crab and shrimp stew, I like to make it on weeknights because it cooks pretty quickly.
01:24Oh, I love it.
01:24Yeah. So we're going to start with a roux.
01:26Okay.
01:26I melted four tablespoons of unsalted butter over medium heat.
01:31Okay.
01:31And I'm going to sprinkle in a quarter cup of flour.
01:35So when you make a roux, you want equal parts of flour and fat.
01:39We're using butter. I like how that pairs with the seafood.
01:42And I'm just going to give this a stir.
01:44Okay.
01:45And I'm going to reduce the heat to medium low because if you cook a roux too quickly, it can
01:50burn.
01:51Yep.
01:51You want to make sure you're cooking it evenly.
01:54So you want to scrape the sides and the bottom of your Dutch oven.
01:58Okay.
01:59A burnt roux cannot be saved.
02:00Nope.
02:01You want to keep your eye on it.
02:02If you notice it's browning too fast, you can just turn the heat down a little.
02:06Julia, could you handle the roux for me while I prep the rest of our ingredients?
02:10That's an honor for a Louisiana woman to say, will you handle my roux?
02:13Right?
02:13Ooh.
02:13So we're going to cook that until it's cinnamon colored, about 10 minutes.
02:18I'm going to go ahead and chop this bell pepper.
02:23So I've just removed the inner parts of my bell pepper and I'm now going to chop this fine.
02:30All right.
02:31So in French cooking, we have mirepoix.
02:34Yep.
02:34Right?
02:34That's onion, celery, and carrots.
02:37That's right.
02:37In Creole cooking, we have what's called the trinity.
02:40And it's these three ingredients, onion, celery, and bell pepper, that are the base of Creole cuisines.
02:46So you're going to find it in gumbos and etoufes and you're going to find it in this crab and
02:51shrimp stew.
02:52Now that to me looks like cinnamon.
02:54This is the perfect color.
02:56I'm going to add one small onion that's been finely diced.
03:00So when you add to roux, you don't want it to splatter.
03:03And I've got two stalks of celery that have been thinly sliced.
03:07And then our small green bell pepper that has been finely diced.
03:15And I'm going to increase the heat to medium.
03:19And I'm going to cook these vegetables with a half a teaspoon of salt until they soften, which will take
03:25about eight minutes.
03:26Okay, that smells delicious.
03:29It smells like Louisiana in the best way.
03:32Like, you know, you're about to have a good meal.
03:34That's those Creole flavors.
03:36So our vegetables have softened.
03:38I'm going to add four minced garlic cloves,
03:43two tablespoons of tomato paste.
03:47I've got a teaspoon of smoked paprika.
03:50Oh, interesting.
03:52And I've got a teaspoon of Old Bay seasoning.
03:54Now, this is great for seafood, especially crab.
03:57So it's going to be perfect in our crab and shrimp stew.
04:00That makes sense.
04:01And I've got a teaspoon of dried thyme and a quarter teaspoon of cayenne pepper.
04:06This is just enough heat to really bring out the flavors.
04:09But it's not going to be overwhelmed, like too spicy that you can't handle it.
04:13Gotcha.
04:14And I've got two bay leaves.
04:16And I'm going to toast all of these spices and the bay leaves until they're fragrant.
04:21We want all of these flavors to come together.
04:23It's going to take about two minutes.
04:25Okay.
04:26The spices are very fragrant.
04:28So we can add our seafood stock.
04:30Okay.
04:31So this is four cups of store-bought seafood stock.
04:34Okay.
04:36And I'm going to add 14 and a half ounces of diced tomatoes with all of their juices.
04:42So we've got tomato paste.
04:44We've got diced tomatoes, giving us that robust tomato flavor with the different types.
04:50And another half teaspoon of table salt.
04:53We're going to bring this to a hearty simmer.
04:56I'm going to increase the heat.
04:58It's vigorously simmering.
05:00I'm going to turn it down.
05:01And we're going to let this cook for about 20 minutes so all of those flavors can marry and it
05:08can thicken slightly.
05:10It's been about 20 minutes.
05:12It smells delicious in here.
05:13So, Julia, this is the star of this stew, lump crab meat.
05:18Oh, yum.
05:18This is a super premium product.
05:20It's got this sweet, delicate, mild flavor.
05:23And the lump crab is really tender.
05:25So I'm just picking through, making sure that I've gotten all of the little bits of crab shell out of
05:31it.
05:31Since our stew has simmered, it's thick, it's perfect, I'm going to add our lump crab.
05:38This is half a pound of crab meat, so there's going to be crab goodness in every bite.
05:44I've also got some shrimp, half a pound.
05:47This is large shrimp.
05:48It's 26-30 count.
05:50That means there are 26 to 30 shrimp tails per pound of shrimp.
05:55That's right.
05:55The reason we want to use large and not jumbo or something even larger is because we want a lot
06:02of shrimp in every spoonful.
06:03So I'm going to increase the heat on this.
06:06And once this reaches a hearty simmer, I'm going to turn the heat off and let the residual heat finish
06:12cooking it.
06:13We don't want overcooked rubbery shrimp.
06:15We want everything to just be melty, delicate, beautiful, smooth.
06:19It's been about five minutes.
06:22I'm going to take a look at our shrimp.
06:24I mean, they look cooked through.
06:26That's true.
06:26They're pink and they're curled into the perfect sea.
06:30So I'm going to fish out those bay leaves we added.
06:33Hardest part of the whole recipe.
06:37And I'm just going to finish this with two tablespoons of fresh chopped parsley, a tablespoon of fresh squeezed lemon
06:46juice, and a tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce.
06:49Oh, wow.
06:49So we're adding things to really brighten the flavors that we've added so far.
06:54That looks delicious.
06:56Yeah, it smells amazing.
06:58Let's give it a taste.
06:59Okay.
06:59Let's see if we need to correct it with salt and pepper.
07:06Mmm.
07:08That is good.
07:10Let's add a little touch of salt and a pinch of pepper as well.
07:16All right, let's eat.
07:17All right.
07:18I like that you have nice big bowls.
07:20Oh, look at that.
07:21Mmm.
07:22This looks delicious.
07:27You got to add a little hot sauce.
07:29Also, lemon juice.
07:31Whenever you have crab or shrimp, a squeeze of lemon juice goes a long way.
07:34Okay.
07:35Same thing with this stew.
07:37And I've got some crusty French bread.
07:40Mmm.
07:40You could also serve this over rice.
07:42All right, I'm going to dive right in here.
07:44Lesson.
07:47Oh, man.
07:49That's good.
07:49That has a lot of flavor.
07:51Right.
07:51It does not taste like a 45-minute soup at all.
07:54Not at all.
07:55It has a really hearty backbone, thanks to the roux.
07:57You taste the spices, kind of mild around the edges.
08:01You have the backbone of the roux, but you taste the crab.
08:05There's very few recipes where you can actually taste the crab.
08:08And this, it shines right through.
08:10It does.
08:10And I love that addition of Worcestershire sauce and lemon juice and fresh parsley at the end.
08:15And it just brightens everything up.
08:17So it feels both satisfying but refreshing and light.
08:21Mm-hmm.
08:22Yeah.
08:23Valerie, this is delicious.
08:24Thank you for showing me how to make it.
08:26I had so much fun cooking with you.
08:28Likewise.
08:29If you want to make Valerie's very own seafood stew, start by making a cinnamon-colored roux.
08:34And saute the trinity of onion, celery, and green bell pepper.
08:39Layer in a few spices along with some tomatoes.
08:42And simmer for 20 minutes.
08:43Then finish with crab and shrimp.
08:45From America's test kitchen, Valerie's very own Louisiana-style weeknight crab and shrimp stew.
08:52I can't believe this came together so quickly.
08:55Yeah, but it did.
09:01The world of Japanese knives is really interesting because most are designed with a specific task in mind, like chopping
09:08vegetables or slicing fish.
09:10But there is one knife, the gyuto, that is really an all-purpose knife.
09:15And today, Adam's going to tell us more about this kind of knife and how it compares to a Western
09:19-style chef's knife.
09:20We were so curious about these gyuto because it really is the closest thing you can come to in the
09:25Japanese cutlery world to an all-purpose knife.
09:28We assembled this lineup of nine.
09:30They were all about 210 millimeters, which is close to the 8-inch length that we like on a Western
09:35-style chef's knife.
09:36And the price range was $50 to $226.
09:40Ooh, that's a big difference.
09:42Now, you can tell they look a lot like Western-style chef's knife, but there are a couple of really
09:46important differences to keep in mind.
09:48One is the type of blade geometry.
09:52They're both double-beveled, which means they're ground on both sides of the cutting edge.
09:57However, Western knives are symmetrical.
09:59They're ground at the same angle on either side of the edge.
10:02Yeah.
10:03The gyuto are asymmetrical.
10:05Interesting.
10:06One of the angles is steeper, narrower than the other one.
10:10Okay.
10:10And that is intended to keep the knife that much closer and more flush to the food that you're slicing
10:16for more precise slices, a smoother action.
10:20Another thing to note is that the steeper angle, the narrower angle, is usually on the right side of the
10:28blade.
10:28Huh.
10:29And so when you cut, that's going to direct a very subtle force to the left, like that.
10:34And that can create an issue for some lefties.
10:37Some lefties have a hard time with these gyuto.
10:41Another thing to really keep in mind is the cutting edge.
10:44You can see that the cutting edge is a lot more straight than a Western-style chef's knife.
10:50So it's better suited to movements of push and pull, push and pull, like slicing or dicing something, as opposed
10:58to rocking it on a cutting board, which we would do to mince fresh herbs.
11:03These blades are also thinner, and they're not quite as tall as a Western chef's knife from the cutting edge
11:10to the spine.
11:12Generally, gyuto are also a little bit lighter than Western chef's knives.
11:16And it actually makes a real difference for long prep sessions.
11:19These are really easy to use for a longer time.
11:22Of course, as with any knife, the handle is a very important element.
11:27There are basically two types.
11:28There's the Western-style handle, which is familiar to us with chef's knives.
11:33It's a little more molded, a little bit shorter.
11:36Then there's the Japanese-style, which is a little bit longer.
11:41It's often made from wood.
11:42It can be cylindrical, hexagonal, octagonal.
11:45In our testing squad, people didn't really feel like one design was inherently better than the other.
11:51It's all about how it feels in the hand.
11:54One last thing to really keep in mind here is that the metal used to make the blades is harder
12:00than the metal used to make a Western chef's knife blade.
12:03No kidding.
12:04It's true.
12:05The standard material hardness measurement is called the Rockwell scale.
12:09The knives in our lineup had a Rockwell hardness ratings of 58 to 65, whereas the last set of chef's
12:17knives we tested had a Rockwell hardness ratings of 55 to 58.
12:21Okay.
12:22That's interesting because combined with the fact that the blades are a little bit thinner, the hardness creates a couple
12:29of issues that you want to be cognizant of as you're using.
12:32The blades are a little less forgiving to certain kinds of movements.
12:37They're susceptible to damage with really hard strikes, so you don't want to be cutting through dense foods like a
12:45butternut squash or frozen foods.
12:48That's one of the reasons that we designed the test the way we did.
12:51Our tests included slicing tomatoes, slicing onions, slicing bell peppers, slicing carrots, cutting a chiffonade of greens, and slicing through
13:02steak.
13:03And as I said before, those are all geared towards that push-pull slicing motion more than a chopping motion.
13:10I want you to give it a try.
13:12See what you think.
13:13I'm excited to try it.
13:14Got some peppers there.
13:15That's a nice knife.
13:19Oh, this is fun.
13:21Nice.
13:24Oh, and that's a bell pepper.
13:26It has a soft side and a rough side.
13:28I have to say, you are responding to these like our whole testing squad did.
13:34People loved these knives.
13:36I don't want to stop.
13:37Now, there were three winners.
13:39There were two that tied for the very first place.
13:42One is this one.
13:43This is the Hitohira FJ 210 millimeter Gyuto.
13:47It's $210.
13:49May I?
13:50You please do.
13:52Oh, yeah.
13:53It's got that Japanese style handle, which a lot of testers really liked.
13:57I'm not used to it, but I could get used to it.
13:59It's pretty light, isn't it?
14:00It's easy to use for long periods of time.
14:03If a heavier knife is more your thing, another winner was the Masamoto Sohonten VG Gyuto.
14:11Okay.
14:11$226.
14:12This one was two and a half ounces heavier than the first one.
14:16Oh, yeah.
14:17It's got a Western style handle, if that's more your thing.
14:20There was also a Best Buy.
14:22This one is the Kanetsugu Stainless Gyuto 210 millimeters.
14:27$50.
14:28Less expensive than the other ones.
14:29It's the same knife that you were using on the Peppers before.
14:32It's light.
14:33It wasn't quite as razor sharp as the other two, but it's still plenty sharp.
14:39And as I said, testers would recommend any of these.
14:42Wow.
14:42I'm seeing myself with a new knife in my future.
14:45That makes two of us.
14:46So there you have it.
14:47If you're in the marker for a Gyuto knife, we have three great options for you.
14:51Hey, can I try this one?
14:53Oh, please do.
14:54Oh, yeah.
15:00The United States is a burger nation.
15:03We're mad about them.
15:04But what happens when America's favorite food meets America's favorite fish?
15:08Well, let's find out together because Becky's here and she's got a burger recipe for us.
15:12Now, salmon is America's most consumed fin fish.
15:16So we're going to mince it up, season it, shape it into patties, and make some really fantastic burgers.
15:21Gorgeous.
15:22I cannot wait.
15:23So, of course, we're going to start with some salmon.
15:25This is one and a quarter pound.
15:27And this is a great place to use a tail piece of salmon, which is sometimes less expensive.
15:31Yes.
15:32Because we're going to chop it all up so it doesn't matter anyway.
15:34A lot of recipes call for mincing the fish, but that can be pretty tedious to mince it all up
15:38by hand.
15:39Sure.
15:39So we're going to use the food processor, but we're going to freeze cubes of fish first because otherwise the
15:45friction from the blade would heat up the fish and kind of melt its fat and it would make them
15:48too gloppy to shape into patties.
15:50So I'm going to start by cutting three quarter inch pieces of fish here.
15:56And I'm assuming this is skin off.
15:58Skin off.
15:58That's right.
15:59Okay.
15:59So we're looking for three quarter inch pieces.
16:03I'm just going to put them on a parchment lined baking sheet.
16:07Spread them out a little bit.
16:09And then I'll pop this in the freezer for 20 to 25 minutes.
16:13I want them to get nice and firm around the edges, but still a little bit pliable.
16:16Before we grind it.
16:17That's right.
16:18So let me pop this in the freezer.
16:20Okay.
16:21So our salmon was in the freezer for about 25 minutes.
16:24You can see it's pretty firm here along the edges, but it's still pliable at the center.
16:28That's exactly what we want.
16:29Before we mix that up in the food processor, let's do some seasonings for the burgers.
16:33Okay.
16:33So I have three tablespoons of panko breadcrumbs.
16:36And these are going to soak up any extra juices that come out of the fish.
16:39Two tablespoons of mayonnaise.
16:41That'll act as a binder.
16:43It's going to help hold all the little fish pieces together.
16:46Two tablespoons of parsley.
16:47Nice.
16:48A little bit of freshness.
16:49Tablespoon of lemon juice.
16:50And that's really going to brighten things up.
16:52Salmon is really rich.
16:53It has a lot of fat in it.
16:54So we want some flavors that are going to kind of cut through that a little bit.
16:57A little punchiness.
16:58Yeah, just a little bit.
16:59Tablespoon of shallot.
17:00We'll do the same thing.
17:02And just a teaspoon of Dijon.
17:05And it's a small amount, but you will taste it in the burger.
17:08And then quarter teaspoon of black pepper.
17:11I'm just going to mix that all up.
17:14All right, so there's our seasonings.
17:16Great.
17:16Now we'll get the fish into the food processor.
17:25Now I have three quarter teaspoon of salt.
17:27And we're going to process this with the fish.
17:29This is going to help the burgers hold together.
17:31But it's not going to make them bouncy.
17:32Okay.
17:33So they're going to have a nice tender texture.
17:34Nice.
17:35I'm going to pulse this 13 to 18 times.
17:38I want about quarter inch size pieces when I'm done pulsing.
17:41Okay.
17:47So that's 13.
17:50There we go.
17:51And you can see that's just about right.
17:53They're about one quarter inch size pieces.
17:55A little bit smaller.
17:57It's just what I wanted.
17:58Nice.
17:59Now we'll add that to our seasonings.
18:06Now I'm going to mix this up.
18:07I don't need to be gentle with it.
18:09I'm really going to go for it and make sure everything's nicely blended in there.
18:12So I saved the parchment that we froze the salmon on.
18:15And now I'm just going to divide this into four portions to make four patties.
18:20And here's a quick way you can divide up your burger mix, whether you're making, you know,
18:25hamburgers, turkey burgers, or salmon burgers.
18:27Just level off the mix like this.
18:29And now I'm just going to use my spatula to divide it into four sections.
18:36Very smart.
18:37That's a nice way to get nice even portions.
18:40So I'm going to tidy up here.
18:41Then we'll come back and make our patties.
18:43Okay.
18:43Sounds good.
18:43Now let's talk about burgers.
18:45Now, when making beef burgers, we want to make sure not to mix the ground meat too much.
18:51Otherwise, you might get a tough, chewy burger.
18:54No good.
18:54But with salmon burgers, we actually want to mix the fish thoroughly.
18:58And here's why.
18:59When beef is ground, a sticky protein called myosin starts to release out of the muscle.
19:04Mixing the meat encourages more myosin to dissolve, forming a gel that allows the meat to easily
19:10stick together so that we can form patties.
19:12Now, if the ground beef is overworked, it'll release too much myosin.
19:16And if you cook that mixture, you'll end up with a tough, unpleasant texture.
19:20But the myosin in fish is much more delicate than the myosin in beef.
19:24So when we process the salmon in the food processor, there's no fear of overmixing.
19:29The fish's myosin gel is weaker than beef's, and it won't create a springy texture when cooked.
19:34In fact, with salmon, that extra myosin works to our advantage, as its stickiness is essential
19:40to making the burgers more cohesive.
19:42So with salmon, it's a good idea to mix it thoroughly, and you don't have to worry about
19:47overmixing.
19:48All right, let's shape these into patties now.
19:51Sounds great.
19:52And the fish is nice and cold, so that makes it easy to shape these into uniform patties.
19:56I want to make them about 3 1⁄2 inches in diameter.
20:01You want to check me there?
20:01Yeah.
20:02Let's see how I did.
20:04Am I good or what?
20:05You nailed it.
20:07So good.
20:07So we don't need to add any fat to the skillet.
20:10There's already some on the outside, and a little bit more is going to render out when
20:13these cook.
20:14And I'm also putting the burgers into a cold skillet because, yep, I haven't turned
20:19the heat on yet.
20:19You're safe.
20:21By bringing the patties up to temperature very slowly, most of the fat will stay inside
20:25the fish, and they'll stay nice and moist.
20:28Those look pretty good, if I do say so.
20:30They look beautiful.
20:32Okay.
20:33Now, if you wouldn't mind, Bridget, give me some medium-high heat here.
20:36Okay.
20:36And we're going to cook these for about five minutes until the bottom third starts to turn
20:41opaque, and that's how we'll know that it's time to flip.
20:44They're going to get a nice brown crust on the bottom.
20:46All right.
20:46So it's been five minutes, and you can see the burgers are starting to turn opaque there
20:50on the bottom third.
20:52Definitely.
20:52So let's take a peek, see what we've got.
20:54Oh, my gosh.
20:55Does that look good?
20:56Beautiful crust.
20:57Gorgeous crust.
20:58And you're right.
20:59There is a little bit of fat that came out of the burger.
21:01It's just enough.
21:01It's not swimming in it, though.
21:03Yeah.
21:03Ha, ha, ha.
21:04That's right.
21:05So we'll let these go another five minutes.
21:07We want the fish to come up to 110 degrees, and then we'll take them out.
21:10Okay.
21:11Great.
21:12It's been five minutes.
21:13Let's see where we're at here in terms of temperature.
21:15We want 110 degrees.
21:17There we go.
21:18Nailed it.
21:19But that seems kind of low.
21:20Yeah, that is low.
21:21So we're going to take these out of the pan.
21:23We're going to let them rest for about five minutes, and while they rest, the temperature
21:26will rise to 125 degrees, which is exactly where we like to eat.
21:30Come on.
21:31I'm going to put these on a paper towel-lined plate.
21:35That's some blue ribbon burgers you got there.
21:37Pretty good, right?
21:40So while those rest, I have the world's simplest burger sauce for you.
21:44I have two tablespoons of sriracha and a quarter cup of mayo, and I'm just going to mix that
21:50all together.
21:51Oh, you can use one or two tablespoons.
21:53I'm going full tilt.
21:54All right.
21:55Love you for that.
21:56I didn't have to ask.
21:57No.
21:57I knew.
21:59So this is going to add a little bit of heat, which is really nice with the rich salmon.
22:04So a nice amount on that toasted bun is a good one.
22:09I have some pickles here, too.
22:10Do you like pickles?
22:11I love pickles.
22:12Okay.
22:12Let's give you a couple of pickles.
22:13I love a lot of things, evidently.
22:15Some nice fresh lettuce.
22:16That freshness is really nice with the burger, too.
22:18You even topped my burger for me.
22:20I know.
22:20Well, I'm doing it up.
22:22Bon appetit.
22:23And you gave me chips.
22:24Oh, yeah.
22:24We got to have chips.
22:25Got to have chips.
22:30Mmm.
22:32Incredibly tender.
22:34Somehow impossibly tender.
22:35You don't expect that with a burger of any kind, but this is super tender.
22:39It's actually kind of amazing that it's holding itself together.
22:42You can taste a little bit of heat from the sriracha, from the Dijon.
22:45You get the parsley and the shallot.
22:48I was a little worried because I saw you sneaking some panko in there.
22:52And often that will turn salmon into a salmon cake.
22:56But three tablespoons was it?
22:57Yeah, Bridget, I got you.
22:59You don't need to worry.
23:00You can't even tell that there's any bread at all in there.
23:03It's just enough to soak up any stray juices.
23:06Yeah.
23:06And that's it.
23:07And all those juices are still in there.
23:08Oh, yeah.
23:09Becky, these are bar none the best blue ribbon salmon burgers I've ever had.
23:14Wow.
23:15Thanks, Bridget.
23:16From one bee to another.
23:17Appreciate it.
23:17My pleasure.
23:18And if you'd like to make these burgers at home, it starts by using the food processor
23:22to grind par frozen salmon, mix in a little mayo, mustard, and panko, and start cooking
23:28the patties in an unheated skillet to ensure juicy burgers and a super crisp crust.
23:33So from America's Test Kitchen, the very best fresh salmon burgers with sriracha mayonnaise.
23:38And you can get this fabulous recipe and all the recipes from this season, along with product
23:43reviews and select episodes.
23:45And you'll find them all on our website.
23:49America'sTestKitchen.com slash TV.
23:52All right.
23:52How do you feel about chips on your burger?
23:54Oh, yeah.
23:55I'm all in.
23:55Let's do it.
23:56All right.
23:56Let's do it.
23:57Let's do it.
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