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00:04Japan.
00:05Michael, welcome to Japan, a railway paradise.
00:08Its huge population spread over long islands lives by its railways.
00:13I feel like I'm driving.
00:14My new adventure takes me through the land that launched the high-speed train.
00:19I love Shinkansen.
00:21Where millions of journeys are made each day through some of the most bustling stations on earth.
00:27Busy city.
00:28I'll ride Japan's vast railway network to uncover a land of bold innovation.
00:35Haven't quite got the hang of it yet.
00:37A place of enduring traditions, volatile geology and remarkable people.
00:44Kanpai.
00:45Join me on an excursion like no other.
00:48I'm too excited to sit down.
01:12My rail journey continues on mountainous Kyushu, which is the third largest of Japan's islands.
01:19And the one that is closest to Korea and lying opposite to Shanghai.
01:25It's home to about a tenth of the Japanese population.
01:28And accounts for about a tenth of the country's economy.
01:31I'm looking forward to reaching its northern coast.
01:39On this adventure, I've discovered how, in the 19th century, Japan experienced political revolution and westernization due to influences which
01:49entered from the outside world through Kyushu.
01:52I began in Kagoshima and have been traveling up the western side of the island.
01:58I look forward to visiting useful Fukuoka.
02:02I'll then dip under the sea to emerge on the western tip of Honshu Island to end at Hiroshima.
02:19I'm beginning on a regional railway line which delivers me to Arita, a small town with a big reputation.
02:31Known for its exquisite quality and artistic beauty, Arita Porcelain was shipped around the world by the Dutch East India
02:40Company from the mid-17th century.
02:42Even today, it's considered some of the finest in the world.
02:47I'm so impressed by Japanese delicacy and good taste.
02:50When you go to a restaurant, the food is elegantly presented on a range of beautiful dishes.
02:58Porcelain is strongly associated with Japan.
03:01And yet, it's something that arrived as a foreign influence from Korea at the beginning of the 17th century.
03:09And so it's associated with Kyushu Island.
03:12And in Japan, it has been developed to new perfection.
03:22I've come to the Fukuokaomi factory, a family business stretching back 400 years, which produced porcelain ware for the Japanese
03:31imperial family.
03:33Its delightful ceramics are found in museums around the world.
03:38Fukuokaomi-san.
03:40Hello, I'm Michael.
03:42Hello. I'm Sosuke.
03:44How do you do?
03:44Good.
03:46These wonderful colours.
03:48So many different blues.
03:50This is like a temple to colour.
03:52Thank you very much.
03:54When did porcelain making first arrive in Arita?
03:57It was 1610th, because Japanese shogun, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, invaded to Korea, and then they brought
04:06back Korean potta to Kyushu.
04:08And is this how your family arrived here?
04:10They were Koreans originally?
04:12Yes.
04:13So, they're brought over by the shogun.
04:16They arrive here as Koreans, foreigners, but they have this skill.
04:21Are they treated with respect in Japan?
04:23Yes, a lot.
04:24Once my ancestor proved their skills,
04:28regional shogun granted surname, Fukaumi,
04:33and permitted to have swords.
04:36Yes, so two great honours to carry a sword
04:40and to enjoy your very illustrious surname.
04:43My ancestor's name is Fukaumi Soden and Hyakbasen.
04:49They were first potter to create arita porcelain.
04:54That is extraordinary.
04:56Today, the business specialises in producing
04:59a vital element of porcelainware, the underglaze,
05:03pigments used to coat pottery before firing.
05:06Most renowned of these is gosu,
05:08a traditional underglaze that transforms into a rich blue when fired.
05:14This is cobalt oxide and manganese, iron and kaolin.
05:22Cobalt comes from DR Congo,
05:25mined and purified by Belgium and imported to Japan.
05:31That makes it very expensive, I suppose.
05:34Yes, a lot.
05:36With cobalt in it, will it always be blue?
05:39Yes.
05:40We have 300 kinds of blue.
05:47It takes a month of mixing, firing, grinding and refining
05:52to produce the delicate gosu glaze.
05:59What extraordinary machinery.
06:01This looks like the beginning of the Industrial Revolution.
06:05What happens here?
06:06What process is this?
06:08This is refining.
06:10We grind it over two weeks.
06:13I'm in awe that you make 300 blues.
06:16Yes.
06:16But I suppose it means you can't make that or that.
06:20It's not blue.
06:22It's not blue.
06:27The underglaze made here is used across the world
06:31and by the many potteries in Arita.
06:34There are around 85 just in the town.
06:36I'm touring Risugama, founded in 1930,
06:41in the former residence of another Korean potter, Yi Sanpei,
06:45who's considered the father of Arita porcelain.
06:49Everything is so very delicate.
06:55Any little impurities are being removed from the basic porcelain.
07:02And here a glaze being applied.
07:05Gorgeous liquid.
07:08A process that is not only hands-on but actually hands-in.
07:19Here an artist with the finest of brushes
07:23applying a pattern of exquisite detail.
07:27For a lesson, I hope in somewhat less intricate painting,
07:32I'm meeting the head of the company
07:33and great-grandson of the founder, Shinji Tarauchi.
07:38Tarauchi-san.
07:42Great pleasure.
07:43I come dressed as a humble student.
07:47To learn from the master.
07:49Yes, it's good.
07:51Now, let's practice first.
07:53This is done with a gray color.
07:56Slighting, we will look at the best.
08:01Yes.
08:02The first picture, you know,
08:08the hemisp Ji-san.
08:12We will look at the best.
08:13And then we will look at the tone.
08:16We can change the shape of the type.
08:19One year, we will look at the end.
08:22This part is a great color.
08:23This is a great color.
08:23Like this.
08:29Mm.
08:35Beautiful confidence strokes.
08:39So.
08:41Make sure the particles are all mixed together.
08:44Get rid of the excess paint.
08:47Get the brush into a nice point.
08:56It's nice.
08:58Yes, that's it.
09:08Nice.
09:09Nice.
09:15You're fine.
09:22Nice.
09:26And then we'll do it like this.
09:29Right.
09:31And then we'll do this.
09:36And then we'll do it like this.
09:41Oh.
09:51This is extremely difficult.
09:53He's telling me not to paint with this big brush,
09:56but just to let the paint flow down.
09:59But bearing in mind that at any moment it can run away with you.
10:08It's difficult, isn't it?
10:10It's very difficult.
10:14We're joined together forever on a plate.
10:25This town has been shaped by four centuries of porcelain making.
10:29I find a Shinto shrine displaying the craft for which Arita is venerated.
10:46What an extraordinary thing.
10:48It must be highly unusual for the entrance to a shrine
10:53to be bisected by a railway.
10:57But here I am, Tozan, established in 1658.
11:03And, most exceptionally,
11:06decorated with the glorious blue of the porcelain of Arita.
11:14Kyushu is dominated by volcanoes,
11:17which accounts for the mineral resources
11:19that have supplied its pottery industry.
11:22One third of Japan's natural hot springs are on the island,
11:25again thanks to volcanic activity.
11:28Not far from Arita is the hot spring town of Ureshino,
11:33where I'm making a stop for the night.
11:36And I'm looking forward to experiencing a ryokan,
11:39a very traditional style of Japanese hotel.
11:45Good evening.
11:48Good evening.
12:00Before I settle down for the night, I'm taking a tea,
12:04which in Japan is elevated to a ceremonial.
12:08I'm going to put tea in here.
12:37I cannot pour a pirate's chug into my teapot directly, so there's an intervening, much more elegant vessel.
12:44So it goes from one to the other and then into the teapot.
12:49Ah!
12:50And now a little egg timer is inverted.
12:55And as soon as the sands of time have run through the egg timer,
13:00I will be presented with a doubtless perfect cup of censure green tea.
13:37This morning I'm up early and ready for my breakfast.
13:45Good morning.
13:47Good morning.
13:48Oh, thank you.
13:49I'll follow.
13:53With tatami mats covering the floor and paper screen walls,
13:58the simplicity of the interior is typical of the Japanese aesthetic.
14:03And so too is the breakfast.
14:08Here I have some miso soup.
14:14Some meat and vegetables that have been cooked in sweet soy sauce.
14:20Salty custard.
14:24Sashimi.
14:25Sesame seed.
14:27Pickle.
14:28Cod row.
14:29A little sauce that I'm going to make up with which to eat my tofu,
14:33which is boiling merrily there in onsen water.
14:37And here, some red snapper.
14:46It can be very daunting for the foreigner eating in Japan.
14:50So many things that are unfamiliar,
14:53but people are always on hand to give you guidance
14:57and foods that may seem very strange at first turn out to be rather wonderful.
15:03I'm not used to having soup for breakfast.
15:08But hey, it works.
15:12And salty custard
15:17is an acquired taste.
15:20This ryokan is built around one of the island's many hot springs.
15:24And I'm keen to experience a very special feature
15:27which I can enjoy without leaving my room.
15:30Every present should have a wrapping.
15:35A Japanese hotel room has many layers.
15:40Moving through one's quarters
15:43is a series of revelations
15:48crossing the tatami mat,
15:51opening the shoji door with its washi paper
15:55to reveal the garden beyond
16:01and my own onsen pool.
16:06Onsen are natural thermal baths heated by volcanic geology.
16:11Sometimes communal, sometimes private,
16:15they are integral to Japanese culture.
16:22This onsen is delightful.
16:26It's a warm bath.
16:27And the water is so clearly natural.
16:31You feel its warmth opening your pores.
16:34You feel the softness of it on your skin.
16:38You sense that you will emerge a new man.
16:41Again...
16:51Refreshed and relaxed,
16:52I'm ready to continue my journey from Takeo Onsen Station.
17:00With a few minutes to spare, I'll watch a great ceremony of the Japanese railway.
17:06In a country full of customs and formalities, the bullet train has its own departure ritual.
17:14Shinkansans are extremely frequent, so there is zero tolerance of lateness.
17:21Each of these employees is responsible for punctuality.
17:23With precision, she marks out each thing that she's doing.
17:28The doors are closing, we are approaching departure time,
17:32and I can guarantee you that it will go on time.
17:41We are checking the monitor.
17:43You can see down the train.
17:45The doors are closing, all is clear.
17:51But, as a final safety check, the guard leans out of the train,
17:57and she will maintain that position until she's cleared the platform.
18:10Missing you already.
18:20My train is not a Shinkansen, but a limited express train called the Relay Komome 787.
18:31The trains across Japan vary enormously.
18:35Each has its personality.
18:37This one sports a sleek black finish.
18:42It's around a 60-minute journey to my next stop, Fukuoka, on the northern coast of Kyushu.
18:51The city of Fukuoka has a history of more than 2,000 years.
18:55In 1975, the opening of a Shinkansen tunnel, almost 19 kilometers long,
19:02linking Kyushu with Honshu, gave the city superb connections to Tokyo.
19:08But businesses are attracted to Fukuoka by its much lower rents.
19:12And it's actually closer to Seoul and to Shanghai than it is to Tokyo.
19:18The city has been marketing these advantages and offering tax breaks to start-ups.
19:25The age range of the population is strikingly young.
19:30It is a city both ancient and modern.
19:52Fukuoka is Japan's fifth-largest city.
19:56I'm fast approaching its center.
19:59Feels like a metropolis.
20:07Hakata Station is the island's largest and busiest.
20:11From this hub, trains depart for Japan's principal cities.
20:15Osaka, Kyoto, Nagoya, Tokyo.
20:25Major railway stations get combined with subterranean shopping centers.
20:30So, you get the gaggles descending from the trains, mixed with the crowds who are doing their shopping, along with
20:38the multitudes who are trying to grab lunch.
20:42Japan has an aging population.
20:45But you wouldn't know it here, as Fukuoka is the city with the highest proportion of residents aged 15 to
20:5229.
20:56And I'm barely out of the station before the city's youth makes an impression.
21:28My name is Michael.
21:30Hello.
21:30Hello. You were very, very, very good.
21:35What's it called, this dance?
21:37This is a double-dutch rope.
21:41What is Fukuoka like for young people?
21:44Is it a good city for young people?
21:45It's a great place.
21:48Very, very nice.
21:50First of all, people are warm.
21:52When I walk in the street, I'm happy to be here.
22:00I'm happy to be here, and I'm happy to be here.
22:06I'm happy to be here.
22:08Is Fukuoka the best city of all?
22:10The best place.
22:11The best place.
22:13Yay!
22:20Fukuoka is now the fastest-growing city in Japan.
22:24It was granted the status as a national strategic special zone
22:28for start-up entrepreneurial businesses,
22:31which entails relaxed planning laws, tax breaks,
22:35and special visas for entrepreneurs.
22:38Driving this change is the city's mayor, Soichiro Takashima,
22:43elected in 2014, whom I have the pleasure of meeting.
22:48Nice to meet you.
22:49Takashima-san.
22:51Nice to meet you.
22:52What a pleasure.
22:53We're grabbing a drink at one of the street food counters,
22:56or yatai, that have become a distinctive feature of the city.
23:01Have you ever been to Fukuoka?
23:03I have not.
23:04This is the first time I've been in Kyushu,
23:06and I've enjoyed it so much.
23:07It's been absolutely marvelous.
23:08Really?
23:08But I've left the best for last.
23:11Fukuoka city.
23:12Really attractive city.
23:14Now, I'm so pleased to be here.
23:16Ms. Mayor, I've learned that your name, Takashima, means tall island.
23:19High island.
23:20Yes, that's right.
23:21My name, Portillo, means small gate.
23:25You used to be a TV host and are now a politician.
23:28I used to be a parliamentarian and minister,
23:31and now I'm a TV presenter.
23:33Yes.
23:34So we've gone in opposite directions?
23:35Yeah, yeah.
23:35Opposite side.
23:38What ideas did you have for the city, for Fukuoka?
23:41What were your ideas, and how did you want to achieve them?
23:46I'm going to be an Asian country, which is the main thing to do.
23:51I want to be an Asian country.
23:52Yes.
23:53And the city, in the old days,
23:55the city, is that the impact of the world from the world.
24:04And that's the impact of the world from the world.
24:31So you have taken great advantage of the physical location of the city?
24:36Yes, that's right.
24:37You're so close to the Asian mainland.
24:41Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.
24:41For example, from Fukuoka to Shanghai, Fukuoka to Tokyo, just same distance, 100 kilometers radius.
24:50Yeah.
24:51So...
24:52And you've been attracting small businesses and startups with tax breaks?
24:57Yes.
24:57What are you doing?
25:02What are you doing?
25:06What are you doing?
25:07What are you doing?
25:10What are you doing?
25:16What are you doing?
25:42What are you doing?
25:45What are you doing?
25:47What are you doing?
25:52What are you doing?
25:53Oh, that's a good sight.
25:56Okay.乾杯
25:57!乾杯
25:59!乾杯
26:00!乾杯
26:21!乾杯!
26:26乾杯!
26:29乾杯!
26:32乾杯!乾杯!
26:33乾杯!乾杯!
26:58乾杯!乾杯
27:01!乾杯!
27:02乾杯!乾杯
27:04!乾杯
27:08!乾杯
27:09!乾杯
27:15!乾杯
27:16!乾杯
27:20!乾杯
27:21!乾杯
27:26!乾杯!
27:27Over history,
27:27Japan, as the nation of islands, has had to debate whether to admit
27:32foreign influences it absorbed porcelain making in the 17th century and in the 19th it imported
27:40the industrial revolution from the west in both cases with great success but even today japan
27:49receives very few immigrants by comparison with other developed economies it's open to ideas and
27:56to technology it's a great world exporter but its population and its culture remain homogeneously
28:05japanese next time part of the fish is highly poisonous and dangerous yes oh the all the chef
28:13has to take care of the puffle fish they have to have the national license everybody think about
28:19how to make it beautiful that the shinkansen a piece of engineering and almost a piece of art
28:26at the same time atomic bomb dropped just behind you an entire community simply disappeared
28:58so
29:03you
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