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00:04Japan.
00:05Michael, welcome to Japan, a railway paradise.
00:08Its huge population spread over Long Islands lives by its railways.
00:13I feel like I'm driving.
00:14My new adventure takes me through the land that launched the high-speed train.
00:19I love Shinkansen.
00:21Where millions of journeys are made each day through some of the most bustling stations on Earth.
00:27Busy city.
00:28I'll ride Japan's vast railway network to uncover a land of bold innovation.
00:35Haven't quite got the hang of it yet.
00:37A place of enduring traditions, volatile geology and remarkable people.
00:44Kanpai.
00:45Join me on an excursion like no other.
00:48I'm too excited to sit down.
01:17I'm soaring towards my next Japanese destination on this sleek Thunderbird train.
01:24The places that I visited so far, Nagoya, Osaka, Kyoto, form a vast urban sprawl in the central part of
01:33Japan.
01:34I'm looking forward to going back to the countryside as I visit northern regions of the main island Honshu.
01:41And there I'll find a dramatic setting for a samurai castle and a spectacular challenge for an alpine railway.
01:57Honshu is the biggest and most populous of Japan's four main islands.
02:02Having visited the cities in its centre, I'm now striking north to the coastal city of Kanazawa.
02:09And we'll finish today's leg traversing the steep cliffs of the Kurobe Gorge.
02:20To reach Kanazawa, I must leave my Thunderbird train to pick up a high-speed bullet train.
02:31My Shinkansen is, of course, exactly on time.
02:35At Shinkansen platforms, gates stop people falling onto the line.
02:40And people queue, yes, queue, at the right car number.
02:46Delays on the Shinkansen are exceptionally rare.
02:50And they may be measured in seconds, not minutes.
02:52The service reflects national characteristics.
02:56A total commitment to quality, reliability and safety.
03:01For the visitor, train journeys offer a window onto Japanese values and the national psyche.
03:08Japan is superbly clean.
03:11Even on crowded streets, you don't see any litter.
03:14Which means it must be down to the very good behaviour of the public.
03:18And the trains in Japan are even more impeccable.
03:21I'm going to see how the bullet trains are kept spotless and, indeed, reliable.
03:27Because since they were introduced six decades ago, they have a 100% safety record.
03:34My first stop today is Kanazawa, a city that overlooks the Sea of Japan.
03:43Kanazawa Station, with its distinctive temple-inspired arch,
03:47is a major transport hub on Japan's west coast.
03:51For some services, this is the terminus.
03:55To maintain the Shinkansen's near-perfect punctuality,
03:59on reaching the end of the line,
04:01trains must be cleaned and returned to service in a matter of minutes.
04:06I'm going behind the scenes to join the team which keeps the carriages spotless and the departures on time.
04:16Konnichiwa!
04:18Konnichiwa!
04:19Hello!
04:20Konnichiwa!
04:22Konnichiwa!
04:22Konnichiwa!
04:23Konnichiwa!
04:24So, this is the crack team of cleaners,
04:27who are going to make sure that the Shinkansen, which is coming in a moment,
04:31is turned around very, very quickly,
04:33sparklingly clean for the next set of passengers.
04:36Let's go for it!
04:37Konnichiwa!
04:50Everything about the Shinkansen is precision.
04:53The cleaners are here ahead of the train.
04:55They stand facing the track, ready for their task,
04:58which is that three of them will clean two cars in ten minutes.
05:03No ifs, no buts.
05:06The train is greeted with a bow.
05:11Plastic bags at the ready.
05:16And we're off.
05:18The countdown begins.
05:19Every surface is wiped clean.
05:22Litter collected.
05:23Every blind, every tray, every strap is reset.
05:27Floors are vacuumed.
05:30Exhausting even to watch.
05:35Every seat tray is checked for left items.
05:42This lady has a thermal imaging device.
05:45And she checks every seat.
05:47She's looking for wet patches.
05:53As Kanazawa is the terminus for this service,
05:56the next journey is in the opposite direction.
05:59With the flick of the switch,
06:01all the train seats have changed direction.
06:04Heaven forbid that anybody should get onto a train
06:07and find that the seat is not in the right position,
06:10that the blind is down, that the seat is reclined.
06:15Everything must be perfect for the arrival of the passenger.
06:22Final check.
06:25Spick and span and within 10 minutes.
06:31Bye-bye.
06:36Such unrelenting attention to detail in all matters
06:40is the hallmark of the Shinkansen service.
06:42It accounts for the extraordinary safety record.
06:45There have been no passenger fatalities
06:48in its more than 60-year history.
06:51Maintenance facilities across the country
06:53check and recheck every inch of these trains.
06:57I've been given access to one of them,
07:00the vast Hakusan General Rolling Stock yard.
07:03Showing me around is manager Yuuya Yasuei.
07:08You have an immense plant here, Yasuei-san.
07:11What are the various activities that are conducted in the plant?
07:14This is a place where we are doing the maintenance of the day.
07:19We are doing the main cleaning of the day.
07:22We are doing the cleaning of the day for 3 days.
07:26We are doing the cleaning of the day for 3 days.
07:26We are doing the cleaning of the day for 1 month.
07:36This is a W7 model?
07:38Yes.
07:39They're incredibly elegant and I love the colour scheme.
07:45Nine tracks lead trains in and out of the 26,000 square metre depot.
07:52As each is composed of 12 carriages,
07:54there's around 400 metres of train to inspect.
08:00Now, here's a piece of machinery on a cart.
08:02What is this gentleman doing here?
08:22Yes.
08:23Yes.
08:24When you are operating a train at these speeds,
08:25260 km an hour, you need to be so incredibly careful about the perfection of the metal.
08:33Yes.
08:36Not all the tests are so high-tech.
08:40People are beginning to take care of the car.
08:42This is the test that you are using a hammer for 30 days.
08:44This is one of the test that you are using.
08:46The oil is suitable for the temperature.
08:48The oil is suitable for the power.
08:49The whole bolt is on the right.
08:52If you are getting on the right.
08:54The oil is on the right.
08:57The oil is on the right.
09:00The oil is on the right.
09:06to run at high speeds these trains draw from overhead cables huge amounts of power which
09:12is conducted to the train by the pentagraph what do you look out for here what do you look out
09:31for
09:31no three-tar that gassen to sれている momo shereba soo to ii kai tariですね
09:36ato wa oshi agiru chikara ga yawakata ni tiyo kata ni shima sun dayそれを調整してしっかりと安全な新幹線を出す仕事をするところです
09:48tell me something about the prestige of working for shinkansen 260 kilo no kousoku soukou da hashii
09:59mashiそれをしっかりとあの分担いで運行されているので
10:04その運行を守るためにすごくあのスペシャルな仕事だと認識しています
10:06thank you so much and congratulationsありがとうございます
10:23kanazawa
10:24is one of japan's smaller cities
10:39and the domain of one of the most important samurai clans in japanese history
10:54history although by legend japan has had an emperor for more than 1300 years
11:00in practice for centuries political power was exercised not by him but by aristocratic families
11:07one of those the maida family was second only to the tokugawas who were shoguns or rulers of japan
11:15from 1603 to 1868 and the maida family built this magnificent kanazawa castle
11:25here the curator of the collection is yurika okano
11:31hello hello hi hello i'm michael how do you do i'm yurika okano thank you it's great to see you
11:39would you please tell me about this dynasty the maida family yes
11:54前田家は江戸時代にこの金沢中心とした香賀藩というエリアを統治していたそういう家になります
11:56Were these people samurai? And what do we mean by samurai?
12:35The Maida family were masters of creating alliances and avoiding conflict, which allowed them to use their wealth not for
12:44military arsenals, but to patronize the arts, inviting highly skilled artisans to establish workshops in the castle grounds.
12:53Whilst the main castle has been recreated after several devastating fires, a villa built in the grounds in 1863 remains
13:02gloriously intact.
13:11This is a lovely room. Tell me about the house.
13:14This is a temple called the Sei Son Kaku.
13:18The Maida family of the 13th century of Nariyas is created for the mother of his father.
13:26The first thing I see is this wonderful carved screen here. Tell me about that.
13:31It's called Lanma. In the Japanese design, the rooms are drawn and printed in the houses.
13:48Beautiful colours.
13:51The Maida family supported artisans in woodwork, lacquerware, ceramics, embroidery, and a most opulent and luxurious craft
14:01Oh, now this I believe must be gold leaf
14:05So this is where you can see the room, and you can see the wall on the top of the
14:13wall
14:25If I were anywhere in Japan, and I said, where do you find the best gold leaf work? Would people
14:31say Kanazawa?
14:32Yes, Kanazawa's Kana's word is gold, so I think it's called a gold leaf
14:43That tradition has led Kanazawa to becoming the undisputed centre for gold leaf
14:53And it's responsible for almost all the country's production
14:58And today you can find some rather unusual applications
15:02This is a first for me
15:04May I have a gold leaf ice cream, please?
15:09Ah, with the skill of a craftsperson, the gold leaf is applied to the ice cream
15:18Arigato
15:18Arigato
15:26I've heard of people using gold cutlery, eating off gold plate
15:31I've even heard of gold baths
15:32But those were at least durable or permanent
15:36Surely there's nothing more decadent than a gold leaf ice cream
15:40Here now? Gone in a moment
15:49Hmm, enriching
15:55The Maeda family's commitment to art and beauty can be seen beyond the castle walls
16:00In the extraordinary garden that surrounds it
16:04Kenrakuin is considered one of the three great gardens of Japan
16:08I'm meeting local resident Marie to hear what she thinks makes it so special
16:14Hello Marie
16:15Hello
16:17This is such a lovely garden
16:19Oh, yes it is
16:20When did you first come to this garden?
16:24So, when I was an elementary school student
16:28I walked to my school with my father
16:31And when I come back from school, I used to go back home through this garden
16:37How perfect
16:38Yes, it's very, very beautiful
16:41This is regarded as one of the loveliest gardens in Japan
16:44Mm-hmm
16:45Why do you think that is?
16:46Why is this one of the best?
16:48Oh, because of the beautiful view
16:50So, do you know the name of this garden?
16:53Kenrokuin Park
16:54So, Kenrokuin, so there are three Chinese characters
16:59The one, the first one, Ken, means to combine
17:03Yes
17:04And the roku, the second one
17:06Roku means one, two, three, four, five, six
17:12Six
17:12Yes, roku
17:13And the last one, N, is garden
17:18So
17:19Combines six gardens
17:21Six beautiful elements, I should say
17:24Okay, understood
17:25The first one, it's this space
17:28Yes
17:28So, this is very, very big
17:30Yes
17:31And the second one, it's quiet
17:33Yes
17:34Okay, quiet
17:35And the third one, is the art
17:39So, can you see that beautiful pine tree?
17:42I do
17:42So, that pine tree is a natural one
17:45But, please look at the shape
17:48So many people are working for that
17:50Yeah, it's a creation of humanity
17:52And the fourth one, is a history
17:54For example, that one, is growing, growing, growing from the seeds
17:59And then, now, it's like that
18:01What is the next element?
18:03The fifth one, is the water
18:06And the sixth one?
18:08The last one, is the beautiful view
18:12You've known this garden all your life
18:15Do you think they look after it well?
18:17Yes, I think so, because people are working for keeping this beauty
18:21They are
18:22They are
18:22And I see a couple of gardeners there up a tree
18:25Yes
18:26I think I might go and say hello
18:27Oh, yes, yes, please
18:28Thank you very much
18:30Thank you very much
18:31Such a pleasure
18:33Thank you very much
18:34Bye-bye
18:34Thank you very much
18:35Bye-bye
18:35Thank you
18:38The garden was developed over three centuries by the Maida family
18:42And today, it's maintained by a dedicated team of professionals
18:47Konnichiwa
18:48Konnichiwa
18:49A beautiful tree, does it need a lot of maintenance?
18:52Uh, of course
18:53If you don't extend the underscore, it will make Thanksgiving
18:56The jima growth over 18 years
18:58Is right
18:59But yes
18:59If you don't do it
18:59You can use it
19:00It would make through the supply Centers
19:05It would use
19:06How long have you worked here, sir?
19:07Hurt
19:07It's mine
19:10It's mine
19:10Oh!
19:12Congratulations
19:13May I thank you for all the visitors
19:16for the joy that you bring everyone with this beautiful garden
19:19I'm not my hope
19:21I'm handling it, but I really appreciate it.
19:25You do it very well.
19:34From Kanazawa, I strike northeast,
19:38towards today's much-anticipated final destination,
19:42the Kurobe Gorge Railway in the northern Japanese Alps.
19:46To reach there, I return to Kanazawa Station
19:50to take the Hokuriku Shinkansen Line.
20:17One of the many ways in which Japanese people are polite to each other
20:22is by being quiet.
20:24And this is particularly true on the Shinkansen train.
20:27If you raise your voice, people turn startled faces towards you.
20:33Nothing makes you feel more uncouth or more thorough than being loud.
20:40In the distance, the foothills of the Japanese Alps come into view.
20:45But to get up into the mountains, I need to change trains.
20:57I leave my Shinkansen to transfer onto the local Toyama Chihou Railway,
21:04departing from Shin Kurobe Station.
21:10The train bound for Unazuki温泉 is arriving.
21:15Please stay behind the wedge door, position marks.
21:19As you can see, orange-yellow, Unazuki温泉方面.
21:23The train is arriving.
21:31Please stay behind the wedge door, position marks.
21:41Japanese people don't see nature and humanity as being separate
21:45in the way that Westerners do.
21:48The Shinto gods inhabit the living world.
21:52And that provides an extra reason to respect it
21:55and to live in harmony with it.
21:57So imagine how, on a train journey through,
22:00exquisitely beautiful landscape
22:02replenishes the Japanese spirit.
22:05And seeking nourishment of my soul,
22:08I too will begin the ascent.
22:36At Unazuki Onsen, I cross town to take my third and final railway journey of the day.
22:42And it's going to be a treat.
22:58This is a very small train, dare I say cute, with tiny locomotives to match.
23:06These are the distinctive orange locomotives of the Kurobe Gorge Railway.
23:13A dinky train perhaps, but reputedly a magnificent mountain railway.
23:19Yoshida-san, konnichiwa!
23:21Oh, Michael!
23:22Hello!
23:23Konnichiwa!
23:24Nice to meet you!
23:26Mamoru Yoshida is accompanying me on my ascent.
23:33I'm going to go!
23:34I'm going to go!
23:36I'm going to go!
23:36I'm going to go!
23:37I'm going to go!
23:39I'm going to go!
23:39I'm going to go!
23:40Known affectionately as the trolley train,
23:42its route begins by crossing the Kurobe River.
23:52Oh, this is going to be so exciting.
23:54We're going to cross our own bridge and we look down on the other bridges.
23:57Hello, everyone, on the other bridges!
24:00Oh, this is lovely!
24:02I love this railway!
24:05This is so beautiful!
24:07Oh, this is fun!
24:08This is gorgeous!
24:11Construction of the railway started in 1923,
24:15and the full line of around 20 kilometres was completed in 1937.
24:20Tell me about the gorge, tell me about the mountains.
24:35What's this railway built for tourists?
24:37No, Michael, at the beginning, it wasn't the same.
24:41Oh!
24:42The railway built for the dams and the infrastructure to build the materials.
24:49Throughout the gorge is a series of five dams,
24:52the biggest of which is Japan's tallest at 186 metres,
24:57and it drives the epic Kurobe power station.
25:01It was a monumental project.
25:04After seven years of construction, it was completed in 1963,
25:09to supply the electricity required for Japan's post-war economic boom,
25:14and it continues to be an essential power source.
25:19The railway, which had been built to transport workers and materials to the site,
25:24was opened to tourists in 1953.
25:28What amazing views!
25:32Such greenery!
25:34Such steep-sided valleys!
25:37Absolutely dramatic!
25:40Look at the waterfall!
25:44Built in some of Japan's most challenging terrain,
25:48the railway has a staggering 41 tunnels and 27 bridges.
25:54Oh, that is beautiful!
25:58I love to see a train snaking over a bridge.
26:07Oh!
26:08I'm too excited to sit down!
26:21Oh!
26:23Oh!
26:23Oh, wow!
26:25Oh, my goodness! Look at that!
26:27Everything here is on a super scale!
26:30And yet, this is not the main dam.
26:36In 2024, an earthquake caused damage to the top section of the line,
26:41and until it's fully repaired, the temporary terminus is Nekomata Station.
26:46That was a wonderful trip.
26:49That was a memorable view.
26:51A great railway journey.
26:54I'm so happy that you are so happy.
26:56I'm so happy that you are so happy.
26:58Yes.
27:22In this awe-inspiring landscape, dwelling place of the Shinto deities,
27:29I think of Japan as a garden.
27:32It has the six attributes.
27:35Spaciousness, tranquility, artifice, antiquity, water, and magnificent views.
27:43The Japanese people show respect in all things,
27:47in their manners to each other and in their reverence for nature.
27:51If this garden is a celestial gift,
27:54they have responded by keeping it lovely and spotlessly clean.
28:08Next time, one is so distracted by this terrifying wave
28:12that it's possible to lose sight of the fact that Mount Fuji is here in the background.
28:17I have never seen wasabi growing before.
28:25That is extraordinary.
28:31Isn't that amazing?
28:32It comes alive at once.
28:34That's gorgeous.
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