- 2 weeks ago
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00:00Three days ago, I took on a challenge.
00:02Learned to slackline with the help of my coach, Jan Roos.
00:06Since then, it has tested me like nothing else before.
00:09Whoo! All right!
00:11This was the moment of truth.
00:19I think one of the most special things
00:21that going into extreme sports has given me
00:24is to meet people like you guys.
00:25We appreciate it.
00:26You've done everything that you can.
00:28I wish this quest could be longer.
00:31Truth is, I am not feeling this.
00:34Let's stoke your fire a little bit.
00:36How about Jan gets out and has fun on the line,
00:38and we'll show you the system is safe,
00:40and you watch and be awe-inspired by it.
00:42Okay. Yes.
00:44Wish me your luck.
00:45Yeah.
00:50Wow.
00:51Stabilize.
00:52Watching Jan step out onto the High Line
00:54a hundred feet above the ground
00:56only confirmed there was no way
00:59I could take more than a few steps out there.
01:02I'm the Buddha.
01:03Whoo!
01:04Amazing.
01:05Watching this world-class athlete
01:06so calm and graceful up there
01:07made me realize he was light years ahead of me.
01:10Wow.
01:11And that even at his level,
01:13falling, surfing on air,
01:15is always a possibility.
01:16Whee!
01:17What the ?
01:18And this is the mastery of slacklining.
01:21Yes.
01:22Of course.
01:23You have to think the hundreds of times
01:24he has fallen getting to this point.
01:26Yeah.
01:27Yeah.
01:28Bravo.
01:35So, would you like to try a Tyrolean Traverse?
01:38It's getting onto the line underneath
01:40and rolling yourself across.
01:41If you get on the line,
01:43I'll do a little traverse.
01:45I want to see John as well.
01:47I'm out of practice, to be honest.
01:48So, I'm rusty.
01:50I could tell John was a little bit hesitant
01:52to get out on the line.
01:54Seeing him out there,
01:56he struggled at first
01:57and even fell.
01:59But then he got back up and kept going.
02:03Nice.
02:04It hit me that in this sport,
02:05falling is not failure,
02:06it's part of learning.
02:08Holy .
02:10Maybe I could push further too.
02:13Okay.
02:14Here we go.
02:15You can sit next to me.
02:16Two, four, six, eight, ten, both loops.
02:18We're good.
02:19All right.
02:20We used a device that let me slide
02:21along the slackline while hanging below.
02:23There you go.
02:24There we go.
02:25The small detail is,
02:26I still need it to clamp on.
02:27All right.
02:28I'm moving.
02:29And if I slipped,
02:30feet on the rock,
02:31I could smash myself into the rocks.
02:33Daring to be up there
02:49felt like a small victory.
02:51Slacklining didn't teach me
02:52how to walk in the sky.
02:54It taught me that falling
02:56is part of the process.
02:58I really, really, really, really
02:59want to thank you guys.
03:01Today you guys helped me break a barrier.
03:04You did a little step
03:05and you overcome it.
03:06Thank you so much.
03:07It's been an absolute pleasure
03:08working with you.
03:09Thanks.
03:10It hurt to walk away
03:11from slacklining without making it.
03:13But there was no time
03:14to stay stuck on that.
03:15The final challenge was waiting.
03:18And it would take my breath away.
03:22Big wave surfing.
03:24Where one misstep could mean
03:25getting slammed into the bottom,
03:27being held under water with no air,
03:30snapping your board,
03:31or eating your bath.
03:38Is this scary?
03:39No.
03:40I don't.
03:41This one is just big .
03:47For my surfing quest,
03:48I traveled to Hawaii,
03:50the birthplace of this adrenaline pumping sport.
03:52Muy buenos dias.
03:53Son mas o menos las siete de la mañana.
03:55Nos estamos dirigiendo a Ukumejame.
03:57E iniciar la aventura con el deporte de surf.
04:01Surfing began thousands of years ago
04:03in Polynesia before finding its home in Hawaii,
04:05where it blossomed into the sport of kings.
04:08In the early 1900s, Duke Kahanomoku carried it
04:11beyond the islands, bringing surfing to the world.
04:14By the 1950s, the Hollywood film Gidget and the music
04:17of the Beach Boys sent it surging to pop culture,
04:20transforming what began as an ancient ocean ritual
04:23into a global lifestyle.
04:27Ian, the monster legend.
04:29Welcome to Maui.
04:30Good to see you, dude.
04:31Surfing pioneer Ian Walsh is widely regarded as one of the
04:36greatest surfers to ever live.
04:38At 19, he earned international recognition
04:41after riding a 60-foot wave.
04:44He has spent his life chasing the biggest waves,
04:47and just like Slackline,
04:48I'm gonna have only a few days with him.
04:50I've been wanting to dive into the world of surfing
04:52for a while now.
04:53I was waiting for the right person,
04:54and you found him.
04:56With only four days in the water,
04:57there is no time to waste.
04:59Today's go, catch a wave with a push from Ian.
05:01Next, read the waves and improve my balance.
05:04Then, paddle without a push and stand up on the board.
05:07And finally, catch my own wave all the way in.
05:11This'll be your board.
05:12This is a 10-foot,
05:13and this is a lot more forgiving,
05:15so we're gonna start on that.
05:17My first board was a Crime Nose Rider 2 Soft board.
05:20The foam buoyancy made paddling way easier,
05:22which meant catching waves sooner.
05:24The length gave me added stability,
05:26and if I did fall and hit the board,
05:28the foam construction would hurt less.
05:29Put your feet a little bit closer together.
05:31Like this?
05:32Straight on, yep.
05:33See how you land that way with your left foot forward?
05:36That's your natural stance.
05:37The first thing to do is gonna be to lay down,
05:40and we're gonna want your feet kind of around the tail.
05:43Boom, boom, boom, boom.
05:45And then now it'll be, okay, pop up.
05:46And then boom, okay.
05:47Yep, boom.
05:48Standing on the board the right way was important,
05:51but the real danger was getting knocked off it.
05:53So if you fall, you don't ever wanna dive head first.
05:57It is shallow enough that you could dive in,
05:59and a lot of people have broken their necks surfing
06:02because the water isn't much more than, like, this deep.
06:06Try to just fall backwards and shoot the board forward.
06:09So it's best to .
06:10Yeah, exactly.
06:11So that's a good time to introduce Luke.
06:14You wanna come?
06:15Luke is one of my brothers.
06:16Hey, how you going?
06:17So this is Luke Walsh.
06:18Luke Walsh.
06:19And this is Damien Boone.
06:21Damien.
06:22Nice to meet you.
06:23You have the biggest hand on earth.
06:24Which is good.
06:25We want those big hands because he's our lifesaver.
06:27If there's an emergency, he'll be in the water,
06:29and those big hands will be pulling you out.
06:31Oh.
06:32Smaller surf is great for learning,
06:33but there are still hazards here.
06:35Obviously, we have a live coral reef out there.
06:37Yeah.
06:38So it can be sharp.
06:39There's also a lot of sea urchins in the water.
06:41Those are really painful to get stuck in your foot.
06:43We have jellyfish, and there's also a lot of sharks.
06:47If anything should happen, Luke will be in the water with you.
06:49I'll meet you halfway out or on land,
06:51depending on the severity of the emergency.
06:54After being warned about all the serious injuries
06:56that can happen surfing,
06:58I was hyper-vigilant as we took to the water.
07:01Then we'll clean the board, the sand,
07:02hop on it, lay down.
07:04Perfect.
07:05Yep, right there.
07:09Windy!
07:10Almost the second we got in the water,
07:12the wind picked up.
07:13This wind, huh?
07:14It spins you in the face.
07:15It was whipping the ocean into a frenzy.
07:18Whitecaps churned.
07:19That wind is going to want to move us this way.
07:22We want to stay where we are
07:24and not go way down the coastline.
07:26Even just controlling my board was a fight.
07:28Scoop back a foot or two,
07:30and you're going to turn it around.
07:32Exactly.
07:33Oh!
07:34Whoa!
07:35There's wind, huh?
07:36It spins you in the face.
07:38Exactly.
07:39Oh!
07:40Whoa!
07:41The wind was so strong
07:42that it just ripped the board out of my hands.
07:45But there was no time to recover.
07:47Here comes your first wave.
07:49Paddle, paddle, paddle.
07:50Ian was giving me a helpful push
07:52to get me started.
07:53I was able to stand up on the board.
07:55Whoa!
07:56For a little bit.
07:57And then hop back on,
07:59and we're going to get back out.
08:01The second I managed to stand,
08:04I tipped over and...
08:06Crashed back into the water.
08:10Ooh!
08:11I felt a little cool on the low end of my back.
08:13It felt more like a quick zing.
08:16I had barely begun,
08:17and I was already getting hurt,
08:19but I knew I needed to push forward.
08:21Remember, get lower and lean back a little bit.
08:24Okay.
08:25This one looks good.
08:26Start going.
08:27Paddle walk up.
08:32Oh!
08:33Almost.
08:35That wind held you up.
08:36You went a little taller
08:37right when you popped up,
08:38then you tipped.
08:39Okay, yeah.
08:40We're going to get going right now, Juan.
08:42But start paddling.
08:43Good, good, good.
08:44Hop up.
08:48Yeah!
08:57Yeah, baby!
08:58Woo-hoo!
08:59You're flying in the sea.
09:02Man!
09:03Yeah!
09:06What a wave!
09:07Catching my first wave
09:08with Ian's help was amazing.
09:10Hell of a day, man.
09:12By the end of the session,
09:13I was aching.
09:14Wow.
09:15Especially my back.
09:17Luckily, of course,
09:18Ian knew a spot.
09:19All right.
09:20Hi!
09:21I'm Sam.
09:22Nice to meet you.
09:23Hi, Sam.
09:24I was a physical therapist
09:25and trainer.
09:26Just bring it up to your chest.
09:27Any pain when you do that?
09:28She ran me through
09:29a series of exercises
09:30to isolate my pain.
09:32Okay, wait.
09:33Right there where you are?
09:34I feel it there.
09:35Right.
09:36In addition to working on my back,
09:37Sam guided me through
09:38several exercises
09:39designed to boost
09:40my overall surfing fitness.
09:42We're going to try
09:43to work on using
09:44underneath our shoulders,
09:45which is going to make you
09:46a stronger paddler.
09:47Beautiful!
09:48Sin duda alguna,
09:49uno de los mejores
09:50entrenamientos
09:51que he presenciado.
09:52This could be like
09:53there's a lot of current.
09:54So you're battling,
09:55battling, battling,
09:56and then you need
09:57to be explosive
09:58even when you're a little
09:59fatigued already.
10:00Mucho más dinámico
10:01y didáctico
10:02de lo que pensé.
10:03Do you want to try
10:04the Indoboard?
10:05I mean, I'd love
10:06to give it a shot.
10:07Let's give it a shot.
10:08This workout circuit
10:09she designed,
10:10including this high-tech
10:11focused exercise,
10:12mimicked the mental
10:13and physical stresses
10:14of being on a wave,
10:15and honestly,
10:16it made me feel like
10:17the Mexican Karate Kid.
10:18There you go.
10:19That's how we do it.
10:20See you soon, guys.
10:35Bye.
10:38I was exhausted
10:39after this workout,
10:40but Ian invited me
10:41over to his house
10:42for dinner.
10:43Welcome.
10:44What a beautiful crib, man.
10:46A lot of boards.
10:47A lot of boards.
10:48This room in here
10:49has everything I'm
10:50riding currently
10:51and working on.
10:52This is actually
10:53my favorite board.
10:54I was flabbergasted
10:55by the sheer amount
10:56of boards Ian owned.
10:57It was evidence
10:58of a lifetime spent
10:59mastering the sport.
11:00Did you ever make
11:01the call of, like,
11:02becoming a pro surfer,
11:03or it was something
11:04that happened naturally?
11:05When I was in high school,
11:06I remember having a pivotal
11:08moment, like,
11:09do I want to go do this
11:10or not?
11:11I had a chance to go compete
11:13in the events
11:14and see how I stack up
11:15against the other kids.
11:17And I went and felt like
11:18I'm on their level.
11:20And then that just started
11:21this thought,
11:22I'm going to give this
11:23everything I have now.
11:24And I went around the world,
11:25and literally the snowball
11:27has just been rolling
11:28since then.
11:30What do you think
11:31is the plan for tomorrow?
11:32You should have
11:33a full-blown
11:35surfer's experience
11:36by doing a dawn patrol.
11:38So you're going to go at sunrise
11:39and check the waves.
11:40Because by the end of this,
11:41I want you to rock up
11:42to a beach,
11:43and you're like,
11:44oh, looks like it's low tide.
11:45Read the ocean.
11:46Read the ocean.
11:47Okay.
11:52It was before 6 a.m.
11:53the sky had just started to lighten.
11:56I headed to the spot
11:57that Ian promised
11:58was going to be perfect
11:59for my first dawn patrol.
12:01This is where
12:02a surfer's day begins.
12:04Before your board
12:05ever touches the water,
12:06you study the ocean.
12:08The way the waves break,
12:09the pull of the wind,
12:11the angle of the swell.
12:12I could tell the tide was low,
12:14pushing the peaks closer to shore,
12:16making this session
12:17probably more technical,
12:18but also dangerous.
12:23All right, let's rock and roll.
12:26Day two began,
12:27and my focus was clear.
12:29Use what I learned
12:30about reading the waves
12:31to find my balance
12:32on the board.
12:33Here you go.
12:34Go ahead.
12:35Start paddling.
12:36Ian would still help
12:37launching me into the wave,
12:38but once I was up,
12:39it was all on me.
12:41On foot, keep going.
12:42Right here in this wave.
12:43To stay standing,
12:44I had to learn
12:45to shift my weight
12:47depending on the movement
12:48of the wave.
12:49That was a good adjustment.
12:50He scooted back.
12:51Oh, no.
12:53You're okay.
12:54Head down.
12:55Head down.
12:56Let's rock?
12:57Yep.
12:58Let's rock.
13:09Yeah!
13:10Let's go!
13:11Belly flop.
13:12Nice one, dude!
13:14Yeah!
13:15Yeah!
13:16Me parece que lo que yo
13:17no había entendido
13:18antes hasta ahora
13:19es que la distribución
13:20de tu peso en la tabla
13:22va a cambiar
13:23dependiendo la ola.
13:24Ah!
13:25That was awesome.
13:26High five.
13:27I think the biggest learning
13:29was that every wave
13:31is going to have
13:32a different power,
13:33a different speed.
13:34We'll get one more,
13:35and we're going to call
13:36this master progression.
13:37It was exhilarating.
13:38I was gliding over the water,
13:40and then I went down hard.
13:43That was a big one.
13:44I landed directly on core.
13:46A jolt of pain shot through me.
13:48Ah!
13:49I could barely paddle
13:50on my foot to stay afloat.
13:52I had taken a dive
14:05and landed directly
14:06on a coral reef.
14:07I immediately felt
14:08a sharp pain in my foot.
14:11They helped me out of the water,
14:13and a paramedic came
14:14to assess the damage.
14:15That looks like Vana, no?
14:16It's swollen up,
14:17and I think there's a lot
14:18of pain in my foot.
14:19It's swollen up,
14:20and I think there's still
14:22something in there.
14:23Some fire.
14:25Ah!
14:26Sorry.
14:28One more.
14:29That's it.
14:30That's it.
14:31I know. I know.
14:32It's super good.
14:33With my injury,
14:34I wasn't going to do
14:35any more surfing today,
14:37but that didn't mean
14:38there wasn't training to do.
14:40How are we?
14:41Welcome to the deep end.
14:42My goal right now
14:43is to just make you feel
14:45more comfortable underwater.
14:46We're going to do
14:47some breath hold training
14:48with dynamic movement.
14:50And this is originated
14:52by the necessity
14:53to train for big waves
14:55when they hit you.
14:56Exactly.
14:57The board is just
14:58one part of surfing.
14:59Half of a surface work
15:01actually happens underwater
15:02where you can get pinned
15:03by waves.
15:04From smaller waves,
15:05you might be down
15:06for 10 seconds,
15:07but for big wave surfing,
15:09you could be trapped underwater
15:10for over a minute.
15:11Learning to control your body
15:13underwater is essential.
15:15All right.
15:16So let's get into it.
15:17The first motion
15:18is going to be a single-arm
15:19dumbbell clean.
15:20You take it down
15:21to the bottom
15:22and you're going
15:23to explode up.
15:24Muy interesante
15:25echarme un clavado
15:26en entender las mecánicas
15:28y formas de entrenar
15:29de un atleta profesional
15:31de surf.
15:32I'll usually start
15:33with 50 in a row.
15:34In a row.
15:36Todas las cosas
15:37que inventan
15:38para poner sus cuerpos
15:40en estrés
15:41para que cuando vayan
15:42al mar y les suceda
15:43algo similar,
15:44se sientan
15:45en una forma
15:46en un lugar familiar.
15:48The first couple
15:49it's fun,
15:50then they start
15:51not getting fun
15:52at all.
15:53Lo que hicimos hoy
15:54fue solo una probadita
15:55de lo que Ian hace
15:56para entrenar
15:57para las Jaws
15:58o para las Mavericks.
15:59Fue bastante invasivo
16:00y bastante fuerte
16:01para el cuerpo.
16:02Perfect.
16:03Good job.
16:13Today we have
16:14a new board
16:15for you to graduate
16:16to.
16:17Nice.
16:18You're going to get
16:19on a legit
16:20fiberglass longboard.
16:21My next board
16:22was the Kaisala Tsunami
16:23Thunderbolt.
16:24The fiberglass construction
16:25made it sleek
16:26and stiffer
16:27so it glides faster
16:28across the water
16:29opening the door
16:30motor rides.
16:31But it's also
16:32less stable
16:33and the solid
16:34construction means
16:35if I fall
16:36and I hit it,
16:37it's going to hurt
16:38a little bit more.
16:39He's been at Ukumehame.
16:40This is obviously
16:41Hokiepa going
16:42into a low tide.
16:43We left
16:44Ukumehame's
16:45mellow rollers behind.
16:46Now we were at
16:47Hokiepa
16:48on Maui's
16:49north shore.
16:50The waves
16:51come harder,
16:52faster and steeper,
16:53the reef closer
16:54and the currents
16:55stronger.
16:56This is where seasoned
16:57surfers paddle out
16:58mistakes carry real consequences.
17:00After yesterday's
17:01injuries,
17:02I patched up
17:03my entire feet
17:04with band-aids
17:05and wore water shoes
17:06because I do not
17:07want to get damaged
17:08by the reef.
17:09Today's training
17:10was going to focus
17:11on trying to catch
17:12a wave without Ian's help.
17:13Start turning
17:14long ago.
17:15Go on, but you don't need me.
17:16Getting the momentum
17:17to get up on the board
17:18unassisted was much
17:19more difficult
17:20than it looks.
17:21If you feel like
17:22you're on top,
17:23that's where you gotta
17:24give it that last
17:25little fight.
17:26No matter how hard I tried,
17:30I just couldn't
17:31seem to get it.
17:35Did you get pounded?
17:36A little bit.
17:37You need to paddle
17:38a little harder
17:39when you go.
17:40Find more
17:41momentum
17:42through the water.
17:43Okay, here we go.
17:44Let's go.
17:49It took forever
17:50to get up.
17:51Come on, bud.
17:52There you go.
17:53Woo-hoo!
17:56Great one.
17:57That was a great one.
17:58That was a great one.
17:59For a moment I thought
18:00I wouldn't make it,
18:01and the fear of failing
18:02another challenge
18:03prepped back in.
18:04But I pulled through,
18:05and tomorrow I will try
18:06to ride away all the way
18:07in entirely on my own.
18:09Very good.
18:10Good morning.
18:11Good morning.
18:12It's 7 AM.
18:13The goal of today is to
18:14finally achieve the goal,
18:15find the wave,
18:16and to get up.
18:17Good morning.
18:18Good morning.
18:19It was time to put all my
18:20hard work to the test.
18:21So we've got to pay attention
18:22to our main elements,
18:23which, first thing I have
18:24to do,
18:25to get up on my own.
18:26It was time to put all my
18:27hard work to the test.
18:28So we've got to pay attention
18:29to our main elements,
18:30which, first things first,
18:31is the crowd.
18:32We don't want to run
18:33anyone over.
18:34We don't want to get run
18:35over.
18:36And then we want to pay
18:37attention to the really
18:38shallow reef.
18:39Yeah.
18:40And then we want to get
18:53a little bit more.
18:54And then we want to pay
18:55attention to the really
18:56shallow reef here.
18:57With jagged coral in every
19:00direction, the odds of
19:02slamming my face or body
19:03into the reef was pretty
19:04high.
19:05It's almost like you're surfing
19:06on top of sharp knives.
19:08with sharp knives.
19:11Okay, now I'll start. Go.
19:13Yesterday, I took a pretty big step forward paddling
19:16to catch a wave, but riding it all the way in
19:19was going to be a much harder battle.
19:24You can feel the difference today to yesterday.
19:27The waves are moving a lot faster.
19:30Everything is zero to 100 real quick.
19:32Absolutely.
19:33You're laying down, chilling, and blah, blah, blah, blah, blah!
19:36And the other side of it is when you fall,
19:38or the way it breaks outside of you
19:40and you get caught inside.
19:41It's like being in a violent car accident
19:44while you're holding your breath
19:45and getting ripped around.
19:47Your feet are hitting the back of your head.
19:53Okay, get ready, compa.
19:54Are we gonna rock and roll?
19:55Rock and roll.
19:56All right, let's go.
19:57Here were so many mechanics to keep in mind,
20:00it was easy to forget something...
20:02Good, stand up.
20:03...and totally wipe out.
20:05That was good.
20:06We're gonna try to pop up much quicker.
20:08Each failed attempt wore me down.
20:10Whoa!
20:16The exhaustion was hitting almost as hard as the waves.
20:23I was getting tossed around underwater
20:24like I was in a washing machine.
20:26Oh, no.
20:27I didn't know which way was up.
20:33The waves spun me underwater in every direction
20:36and I braced for my body to crash into the reef.
20:38Oh, no.
20:41But I broke the surface and I was shaken up,
20:43but the fear was harder to shake than the water.
20:45Whoa!
20:46You okay?
20:47Yeah.
20:48A little early to pop up.
20:49A little early, huh?
20:50Be careful.
20:52My time was running out.
20:53My body was tired and my mind kept drifting...
20:56Stay low!
20:57Okay.
20:58...back to the thought of failing again.
21:00Well, you angled a bit too much.
21:01Yeah, and the boil hit you.
21:03So you gotta adjust for that.
21:05But after the pass challenge,
21:06I promised myself I wouldn't let the fear of failing
21:10stop me from improving again.
21:12Start going.
21:13Up fast now!
21:14A sudden surge of determination coursed through me.
21:18Woo!
21:19Woo!
21:20Let's go!
21:21Good, he got up right away.
21:22Woo!
21:23Woo!
21:24Oh, my God!
21:25Holy .
21:26I see.
21:27Good job.
21:28Woo-hoo!
21:29Let's go!
21:30Let's go!
21:31Woo!
21:32It can be wonderful,
21:58Every single sacrifice, every hour training,
22:11every fall had been worth it.
22:14Being able to surf was truly something incredible.
22:20I wanted to thank you for this amazing adventure.
22:22You did so good, really.
22:25The sensation of hopping on that big wave
22:27and being on top of it feels incredible.
22:30This is the start of a long book for you.
22:34Yeah.
22:45Achieving my goal in this last challenge meant the world to me.
22:49Looking back on this journey, I see not only the sports
22:52that I tried, but the lessons that came with them.
22:56Through the brutal setbacks and once in a lifetime triumphs,
23:02I learned that the real victory was discovering
23:04that these legendary athletes are not born.
23:08They are made one fall at a time.
23:10That was perfect!
23:11Oh, yeah!
23:12They not only taught me their sports.
23:14We got a diver on our hands!
23:19They showed me how to get backed up and how to keep on going
23:25to live on the edge.
23:42the movement, which was the first goal of the start to drive!
23:44They did not change their planet.
23:45They were always a little talent to do.
23:46They that go.
23:47They are all in the world right now.
23:48They have to go.
23:49They are all in the world right now.
23:50Oh, wow!
23:51We can't see you as a photographer!
23:51Do you too?
23:52Sure!
23:52Okay, here, here, here.
23:54Here are some people who have to walk.
23:54This is a great idea.
23:56Please travel the way.
23:57Well, if anyone can get a lot,
23:58Let's go to talk.
23:59Please take what I'm in the world.
24:00But for anyone want.
24:01I'll ask you for the next challenge.
24:03Please take part of your questions.
24:04And as a man, I'll ask you for a long time.
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