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00:30www.mesmerism.info
01:00In that 10-mile stretch of beach, you have the best assortment of waves in the world.
01:04All the world's hottest surfers are here. The contest is on.
01:08This is ground zero of the whole surfing world.
01:11This is where it goes down. This is Mount Everest for surfers.
01:14Everybody is here for their own reasons, whether it's fame, whether it's fortune.
01:18That is why they come to the North Shore, to prove their worth.
01:21I don't feel that you're a complete surfer unless you can come to Hawaii and do well.
01:30There's so many pro surfers and inspiring pro surfers, so many people here. It's a zoo.
01:35You've got to get your mind prepared for that because you're dealing with the most intense crowd of any spot
01:40anywhere in the world.
01:41One wave can make a person's whole career.
02:03You've got to be on the top of your game the whole time, otherwise you can get seriously hurt. It's
02:06really shallow out there.
02:07It's reef like cement.
02:09Always fearing hitting your head on the reef and dying.
02:12The most dangerous wave in the world. More people have lost their lives there than anywhere.
02:30You see your friends one minute, you're shaking their hands, and then, you know, a minute later they're gone.
02:42Family values is strong in a Hawaiian culture.
02:45If you treat them nice, they'll treat you extremely nice.
02:47But if you treat them bad, they're going to treat you extremely bad.
02:51Hawaii, this is the church of surfing.
02:53And this ocean that we ride out there, it gives you power.
02:56Power for your spirit to grow, or power for you to grow ego.
03:18Surfing is what you create it to be, what your dream is, and make it something to enjoy and live
03:23by.
03:27And every generation has their turn. It's not how good it was years ago. It's that good right today.
03:33And the waves are big, and you're sleeping on the beach, and you can hear the walls shaking all night.
03:38It makes you feel really small. I love that feeling.
03:40It makes you feel in personal health.
03:45It makes you feel really good.
03:49I love that feeling is, and it's manner you're different.
03:59You're living in your hands.
03:59I'm all done in nothing.
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