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Carbon bike wheels are one of the best upgrades you can make to your road bike, but once you've got them, you'll want to ensure they are fitted correctly. In this video Sam Gupta demonstrates exactly how you go from box to fully fitted and ready to ride. If you follow his steps for fitting your new bike wheels, then you'll be sure to have fitted your wheels correctly and safely.
Transcript
00:00People are always saying the first thing you need to upgrade on your bike are the wheels.
00:05For those who have heeded that advice, this video is for you. We're going to tell you how to set
00:10them up going from boxed to fully fitted. The first step is a pretty easy one. You need to
00:17unbox them. Happily, most of the packaging wheels come in is recyclable, so be sure to dispose of
00:23the waste correctly. Make sure you dig out any spares that come with the wheels and if they're
00:28loose, then keep them together in a sealable bag for safekeeping. Losing these bits can be a real
00:34pain later down the line. First off, inspect them. Now that you're hands on with your wheels,
00:40it's important to inspect them while they're fresh out of the box and untampered with. Go around both
00:46wheels and give the spokes a little squeeze just to ensure they're under tension and none of them
00:51are obviously loose. Next, check the rim tape has been fitted correctly. Runs perfectly straight
00:57through the middle of the rim and isn't lifting in any areas. If you're going to be setting your
01:02wheels up tubeless, then this part is especially important. Check the wheels are untrue and the
01:07bearings are smooth. You can do this by spinning the wheel in your hands, holding it out and looking
01:12at the rim to see if it wobbles. You can check the smoothness of the bearings with your hands.
01:17Ensure they turn with ease and don't feel loose or grindy. Check the rims for any defects or damage.
01:23This is particularly important if you've bought your wheels second hand. Check for any scuffs, scrapes,
01:30dents or cracks which could jeopardize the structural integrity of the wheels. If you see something you're
01:35unsure about, then head to your local bike shop and get a second opinion. Check the nipple holes are
01:40well machined and do not show any signs of cracking or splitting. And the same goes for the hub. If
01:47you are
01:47considering buying some second hand wheels, then be sure to check out Hunt's Renew program. They will
01:53recycle lightly used wheels and put them through a full inspection and refurbishment program by their
01:59own technical service team. Meaning you can not only save a bit of money, but also ensure perfectly
02:04good components get their chance to be ridden. Now that your wheels are unboxed and you're happy with
02:10the condition they arrived in, we can start to get them set up. First, we'll get the tyres on. We've
02:16made
02:16plenty of videos on how to set up either tubes or tubeless tyres, so I'll leave links to those videos
02:22in the corner of the screen. But in this case, I'll be going tubeless. Next up, it's time to fit
02:27your
02:28cassette. In this scenario, I'm using a Shimano cassette and as such, I have ordered these wheels
02:33with a Shimano Freehub body. However, if you have a SRAM groupset, then be sure to order the SRAM
02:39XDR Freehub. Both fit in similar ways, although each of them has their own nuances.
02:45If you're fitting an 11 or 12 speed Shimano cassette, then simply slide it onto the Freehub
02:51body like so and screw on the lock ring, just finger tight for now. From here, you'll need to
02:56be grabbing some tools. Grab a Freehub tool and a wrench and fully tighten. Cassette lock rings should
03:02be tightened to 40 Newton meters. Ensure there's no play in the cassette and it is securely attached to the
03:08Freehub body. If you have a 10-speed cassette or lower, then you may need to attach an extra shim,
03:14which would sit at the base of the Freehub and would need attaching before you install the cassette.
03:19If you have a Campagnolo groupset, you'll need a different cassette tool, but the process is
03:24largely the same as fitting a Shimano cassette. We're nearly there with adding components, so now the
03:31last thing to fit before you can get these wheels in your bike are the rotors. That is, if you're
03:37using
03:37disc brakes. If you're on rim brakes, then you can go ahead and skip to the next step. Slide your
03:43rotors
03:43into place, ensuring the interface is clean. Once again, finger tighten the lock ring. Now grab your
03:49Freehub tool, insert it into the lock ring and tighten to 40 Newton meters using your torque wrench.
03:55Some wheels, like the ones I have here, use a different lock ring that have external splines
04:00rather than internal ones. If the tool doesn't go in smoothly when you attempt to fit your lock ring with
04:07internal splines, then it's likely you'll need an externally splined lock ring. In this case,
04:12visit your local bike shop. Your wheels are now ready to be fitted to your bike, but it's worth
04:17taking one last look at them to make sure they are fully ready. Ensure the tyres are fitted correctly and
04:23the bead of the tyre has popped into the rim of the wheel. Check your rotors are secure if you
04:28have them
04:29and ensure the cassette is also tight and secure. Now offer the wheel up to the bike. I always like
04:36to start
04:36with the front wheel. If using rim brakes, ensure the wheel is pointing in the right way and you can
04:41do this by checking the rotation arrow on your tyre. For disc brake users, you'll just need to ensure
04:47that the rotor sits in the caliper nicely and then tighten your through axle or quick release. Again,
04:53for quick release users, ensure the wheels have gone in straight. The best way to do this is to open
04:58the lever up while the bike is on the ground as this will ensure the axles are sitting square in
05:04the
05:04dropouts. Move over to the rear now and pull the rear derailleur back. Let the chain droop onto the
05:09cassette and slowly bring it up into the frame, being sure to align the rotor so that it sits
05:15inside the caliper. Again, pop the through axle in or fit your quick release. If you haven't already,
05:21now is a good time to set your tyre pressure. You can do that by using the brilliant calculator
05:26that's found on Zipp's website. I've been using it for years and it's worked really well for me.
05:31If you have set your wheels up tubeless, then do monitor the pressure in your tyres over the first
05:36couple of weeks of having them set up as it'll likely deflate a little faster than usual as the
05:43sealant settles in. However, once you're past that point, they should hold air as well as any tube
05:48set up, but it's always worth keeping an eye on them. Finally, there are two key jobs you need to
05:54do
05:55before you set off on your first ride. First, ensure your rotors are not rubbing. I like to do this
06:01very simply by placing something brightly coloured on the floor and then positioning the caliper over
06:06that surface and looking down through the gap. You'll quickly be able to see if anything is rubbing.
06:12Ideally, what you want is an equal distance between each brake pad and the rotor. If there is rubbing,
06:19work out if it's because the rotor is warped or if it's because the caliper is misaligned.
06:24Caliper misalignment can be easily fixed by slightly loosening the caliper mount bolts
06:29and then shimming it over into position. This can take a while to do and does require some patience,
06:35so take your time. If you really cannot get it right, there is a chance that the caliper mounting
06:40surface may need to be faced to create a perfectly flat mounting surface. If this is the case, then go
06:47visit your local bike shop. If the rotor has warped, then you can realign it using a rotor tool, but
06:53again, go careful on this. It is easy to overdo it. If the rotor has warped by more than a
06:59couple of
06:59millimeters, then you may want to consider replacement. Lastly, the final job to do is to check your gear
07:06indexing. There's a myriad of reasons why your indexing may have been thrown off, so run through your
07:12gears and check they're all working smoothly. If they aren't playing ball, then go see your local
07:18bike shop or watch one of the many videos that we've made on how to fix them, which again, I've
07:24linked to in the corner of the screen. That's it. You are done and it's time to go for your
07:30first ride.
07:31If you've just upgraded your wheels, then let us know what you went for.
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