- 2 days ago
In Penang, Tony celebrates Chinese New Year & visits a traditional teahouse
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00:00When I first fell in love with the East, deeply and hopelessly, it was something like this.
00:20Watching delicate fingers opening a nasi lemma.
00:25Like origami.
00:26A sexy little package of rice and sambal, shrimp paste and chilies, wrapped beautifully in banana leaf.
00:35That was it for me.
00:38From then on, there was no going back.
00:42I felt, seeing that for the first time, I need more of this.
00:50I'm Anthony Bourdain.
00:52I write.
00:53I travel.
00:55I eat.
00:55And I'm hungry for more.
00:58And you've got to.
01:03Yeah.
01:06No reservations.
01:08Penang.
01:21Once known as the Pearl of the Orient.
01:24The island is a chaotic cultural stew.
01:39More like a mosaic, with no shortage of festivals.
01:42One of the biggest, of course, being Chinese New Year.
01:48A raucous two-week celebration to ring in the Lunar New Year.
01:51A date marking the beginning of spring.
01:53A date marking the beginning of spring.
02:03Steamy, sub-tropical, a light show of lanterns and fireworks.
02:10I land on my first visit to Georgetown, Penang's capital, right smack in the middle of the festivities.
02:31It's a surprise.
02:32Literally.
02:38It's not your surprise.
02:47Penang, little known in the west, is an island located off the northwest coast of Malaysia on the Malacca Straits.
02:53General consensus throughout Malaysia says that this is the food capital of the entire region.
03:02Here, Chinese, Indian, and Malay flavors and cultures have for centuries blended together.
03:07It just doesn't get any better than this.
03:13I'm meeting up with my old friend, David Maggi, who previously showed me through Kuala Lumpur and upriver in Borneo all those years ago.
03:22Seven television seasons ago, you were waxing lyrical about the profundity of the journey.
03:28That was a transformative trip for me.
03:31I had no idea that the run would be this long.
03:35We've arranged to meet at the enormous CF market, where many of Penang's former speed vendors have been assembled in one place.
03:44This is where you want to be, especially when you've just got off a plane having flown halfway around the world.
03:51Here I am, cranky, unwashed, hungry, having had nothing but, uh, I ate Popeye's fried chicken this morning.
03:59This is what a food court should be and could be.
04:04I've been to Malaysia a number of times, and the steady drumbeat from a sizable number of people is, this is where the food is.
04:14Okay, it's good here, but Penang is, we have to know it here.
04:18Yes.
04:18Why here?
04:19Why should this place have more claim to it than anywhere else?
04:22Uh, I guess that's because everything, the entire social landscape and climate,
04:29puts the culinary experience first.
04:33What makes Penang different?
04:34It chooses to scream from the plate.
04:40We settle on pork meat, traditional Hokkien Chinese noodles.
04:44Real comfort food, Penang style.
04:47Oh, awesome, totally perfect.
04:51Wantan noodles.
04:52Oh yeah.
04:52Yeah.
04:53This is exactly and totally what I needed right now.
04:56So, the contents of your spoon will take you right back where you belong.
05:02I'm watching how you do this.
05:04Easily, just gently easing into it.
05:06All right.
05:07A little bit on the side and ease your way into it.
05:09Oh yeah, you just, oh, this is like completely beautiful.
05:12It doesn't take much these days to make me happy.
05:18What is it about the food here that makes it so damn magical?
05:22Beyond the incredible mix of influences, the ingredients.
05:26Case in point, these cute little sea snails.
05:29Somewhere between a periwinkle and a whelk called balitlong.
05:33Oh, now that's nice.
05:34Now, there's a trick to this.
05:36It involves a bit of sucking.
05:37And then you've got to suck real hard.
05:41Right.
05:42Holy crap.
05:43That's really, really, really, really good.
05:45Yeah.
05:45But I'll tell you, the sauces here are really sinister dark or fiery red over here.
05:51Oh man.
05:54This part of the world really messed me up.
05:58It's these condiments here.
05:59The chilis, the chili pati.
06:02Once you have that, there's no going back.
06:04They open up the nether regions of your palate, which hitherto you didn't know existed.
06:10Exactly right.
06:11Each of these probably generations have been perfecting, specializing just the one dish.
06:17Right.
06:17It's a culinary capital because of all these concoctions that have come together.
06:22I love it here.
06:22I'm so happy to be here, honestly.
06:24Cheers to that.
06:25Welcome back.
06:31When the first Hokan arrived to work the docks of the thriving Georgetown port at the turn of the
06:35last century, they built their homes on stilts along the waterfront.
06:40Structures similar to those they left back home in Fujian Province in China.
06:46Today, the Hokans are spread throughout the country.
06:49But many still make the pilgrimage home on the Lunar New Year.
06:55To the Hokan, the most auspicious night of the two-week-long celebration being the ninth day,
07:04the Jade Emperor's birthday.
07:07A huge table of offerings is put out in his honor.
07:11There's drinking, fireworks, and prayers.
07:16A big party.
07:19And roast pigs.
07:20Did I mention that?
07:21David's brought me to meet a friend named Su Ping and her mother.
07:31This is her place.
07:32So you've got to take off your shoes.
07:34Yeah.
07:36Hey, hi Su Ping.
07:37How are you doing?
07:38Hi David.
07:38Hey, happy new year.
07:40Nice to see you.
07:40Tony, nice to see you again.
07:42Nice to see you again.
07:43Happy new year.
07:43Happy new year.
07:44Yeah.
07:44So I was just telling Tony, how long has your family been in this area?
07:48Since 1885.
07:50This is my mom.
07:50How do you do?
07:53If you don't mind, could you give her a hand?
07:55I think I can do that actually.
07:56Okay.
07:57Very hot.
08:03This is one of many pigs that were on offer on the night of Hokkien New Year.
08:08What about these buns?
08:09What's on the front of them?
08:11Actually means to bring you more prosperous.
08:13More prosperity.
08:14Yeah.
08:15More, more, more.
08:16More.
08:16Now, I'm not usually a fan of hot pink colored food, but there's pork, always a saving grace.
08:26I love the color.
08:27It's like a hostess snowball.
08:30So you're saying this whole community, Chinese.
08:34So each one of these jetties jutting out from here represents a clan.
08:38So these planks and the chews over there, the limbs.
08:41So they're all either related or know each other well.
08:43Exactly.
08:44Come from the same part of China.
08:45So how many days of Chinese New Year?
08:4715 days for Chinese New Year.
08:4915 days.
08:49That's a lot of time.
08:51This is for the Jade Emperor parade, which is like a god of heaven.
08:55So it's kind of the birthday celebration.
08:57You will see that some people come up with the park and banana and also the apple is for luck.
09:03People here, they still preserve their old tradition.
09:06Every time I come to Malaysia, there's one thing I gotta have.
09:20Laksa.
09:21I find it stagey, artificial, awkward, and increasingly painful, but I want to share this with you.
09:36The joy of a simple bowl of noodles and spicy stuff.
09:40Laksa.
09:41I've only had the Kuching stuff.
09:43In Borneo, I've never had this.
09:45And all the smart-ass foodies say that this is...
09:47This is the...
09:49This is the...
09:50Wow.
09:53Wow, that's pretty awesome.
09:56Now, I would be criminally remiss if I didn't tell you what was in this bloody magnificent dish.
10:02So, for the record, there's this...
10:06And also some of this...
10:08And this...
10:11Also, lots and lots of this...
10:15Not to rub it in, but you just cannot have too much of this.
10:20Oh no, got to have it.
10:23Did I mention these?
10:25No, that too.
10:27And that's all it is.
10:31Wow.
10:38This is...
10:40Herbier.
10:42With a more sour component.
10:44Strong fish stock.
10:47Almost like a southern french fish stock.
10:50Made from mackerel ice.
10:53That is really good looking.
10:57If you ate like noodles and spicy stuff that comes in a bowl.
11:01You would really like this.
11:05Imagine a world without traditional fast food outlets.
11:09You know, the usual suspects clogging up our mini malls.
11:13Imagine we had individually owned and operated joints serving stuff like this all over America.
11:19Can you imagine how delicious that would be?
11:21That is like hearty, spicy.
11:26Look at that magical broth they got simmering away over there.
11:28The laksa part refers to the noodles.
11:32Assam refers to the tamarind component.
11:36We can wear sour flavor profile.
11:39Probably traceable to Thai influence.
11:41I actually know what I'm talking about.
11:46God, they told me five minutes earlier.
11:50Wow, I almost said yummy there.
11:52What the f*** is happening to me?
12:05Panang's life and success has always been inexorably linked to the sea.
12:15Over time, a lot of people have passed through these waters.
12:18The Chinese came down from the mainland.
12:21The British colonized, bringing with them the Indians.
12:24The Indian community of Panang is, of course, still thriving.
12:33Like everyone around here, they brought their traditions and their food with them.
12:44Usually, when cultures collide, the politically weaker groups are either assimilated or marginalized.
12:55The model here would seem to be a sort of melting pot, but one that features big chunks of unique flavors.
13:02Or something like that.
13:07But like everything around here, it all got a bit mixed up along the way.
13:13Case in point, my friend, Leonard Silva.
13:16He's bringing me to the mess, his favorite restaurant in town.
13:25Specialty of the house, banana leaf curry.
13:28So, mostly Indian customers?
13:30Mostly it's Indian, but in recent time, we're spreading around and we have people from all background.
13:36Because it's quite hot corn.
13:38It might be too spicy and all that.
13:41So what you get is the basic vegetables here.
13:43The beans?
13:44The beans?
13:45The beans?
13:45The beans?
13:46Tomato, chutney salad.
13:46The beans, like something like a spinach.
13:49That's my favorite.
13:50Most of the people who came here were from what areas of India?
13:53They were the South Indians actually, neighbors.
13:55Right, right.
13:56And some were the merchants and businessmen.
13:59This group of merchants would hire cooks from India and they cook for this particular group.
14:06In fact, this shop is like a house for them to come and have their lunch.
14:10One at a time or mush all together.
14:17I've seen it in India, it's very confusing to me.
14:19Because here you have all of these wonderful distinct flavors.
14:22And yet, every time I've done banana leaf, the people I eat with, everything goes in together.
14:27Yeah.
14:28It's actually a personal taste.
14:29So this is the crab curry here?
14:31Yeah.
14:35Of all of the instruments in the world, what led you to the pipe organ?
14:38When I was a kid, my dad used to take me to the church. I just fell in love with the sun.
14:48It's a pretty impressive instrument. Earthshaking.
14:53Are there pipe organ groupies?
14:55Yeah.
14:57So, on another subject entirely, what's the best thing about living in Panag?
15:02And what's the worst thing about living in Panag?
15:03Okay, worst thing first, it's the traffic jam.
15:05The traffic.
15:06Yeah. The best thing for me would be, I keep on finding things on this island that amazes me.
15:14Like, guess what? I didn't know this shop two years back.
15:18Right.
15:19I got to know this through a friend about a year ago.
15:23And I found out it's another world here, you know?
15:26I think there would be things to be discovered on this island at every nook and corner.
15:32Chinese New Year, is that a party for the Indian community too?
15:35It's a traffic jam day for all.
15:38For everybody.
15:41While one person's festival can be someone else's traffic nightmare,
15:45the truth is, on Panang, you're never very far from the beach.
15:50And if you have the right kind of friends, well, even traffic isn't much of a problem.
15:55I'm on my way to an excellent beach.
16:02But first, we gotta get some fish.
16:06David suggested we get our lunch from the Kalongs, basically a floating fishing village.
16:11Here, freshness is not, shall we say, a concern.
16:17Whoa, that's a big basket.
16:19What is that thing?
16:20Grouper.
16:22Not like any grouper I've ever seen.
16:23Monster, man.
16:25Bigger is better, not over the top.
16:27It's a little too much.
16:28It's a red snapper.
16:31Snapper, okay.
16:33That should do us.
16:35Fish purchased, it's time to ride like the wind.
16:38Our destination?
16:47The suspiciously named Monkey Beach.
16:53Remote and accessible only by water, this is where the locals come to relax.
17:01Why do they call it Monkey Beach?
17:04Oh, right.
17:05Monkeys.
17:08I came looking for a nice, relaxed beach barbecue.
17:14But once these monkeys started massing, things got weird.
17:18We see a lot of monkeys on this show.
17:20It's becoming a theme.
17:23It's all about trust.
17:25When it comes to monkeys, I have none.
17:27Don't like them.
17:29Constantly erect, and they like to throw feces.
17:33Ain't nothing cute about that.
17:35We generalize when we make these sweeping remarks.
17:37It's monkeys.
17:38It's not all monkeys.
17:39Really?
17:39It's macaques.
17:40You say that now.
17:42Wait till they're humping your ear hole, shrieking at the top of their lungs.
17:49Oh, good.
17:49You're bringing them close to our camp.
17:52See, they're gaining in confidence and numbers.
17:55Sort of like an unruly mob.
17:57There's a ringleader in there, Jojo.
17:59He escaped from the circus years ago.
18:01He holds a grudge against the human race.
18:04You know, this group of monkeys were vegetarians till you arrived.
18:08Now they seek flesh.
18:10Here, little fella.
18:12We're out here.
18:13Here you go, buddy.
18:15Oh, look at those teeth.
18:16Yeah.
18:19Okay, I think I'm all used up, my monkey-related humor.
18:21With the snapper, shrimp, and some bait fish grilling up, it's perfect time to take a stroll
18:28on the beach.
18:29What's he doing talking monkeys again?
18:31Well, I think we've learned something today.
18:34Monkeys can be trained to attack human penises.
18:38That fish smells just about ready to go.
18:41Let's go take a look, shall we?
18:46Oh, look.
18:47It's Tom and Nari, arranging for me to be surprised by locals in indigenous garb.
18:55Oh, yeah.
18:56Hey, just like old times, you know, grabbing fish.
18:58Oh, that's hot.
19:03Hey, that's good.
19:05Here you are, my friend.
19:06Right there.
19:14Well, we did good.
19:15I mean, our usual fishing scenes on this show, not so successful.
19:21Cold beer, fresh fish, good.
19:28Georgetown remains the most intact example of a colonial city in all of Southeast Asia.
19:44The public spaces, government offices, old colonial homes are still here.
19:50But I came for the food.
19:56Helen Ong is a writer and expert on the subject of traditional dishes.
20:00Today, she's scouring the shops and markets of Georgetown, looking for ingredients that can
20:05only be found here.
20:16Helen's got a shopping list from her mom that includes the dubious sounding pickled fish stomach.
20:22Everybody says their mom is the best cook, but Helen has a real claim to that statement.
20:32In a place like Penang, where such a high value is put on cooking well,
20:36Helen's mom, Eileen, is something of a national treasure.
20:39Today, she's making a veritable feast of traditional Baba Nanya standards.
20:51Recipes passed down in her family for generations.
20:58This one is Purrut ikan.
21:00Now, that's a famous one.
21:01Very, very unique to us because it uses fish stomach, pickled fish stomach.
21:08Wow.
21:10Fermented.
21:11Salted.
21:11Salted and fermented.
21:12Powerful.
21:13Wow.
21:15When you come across a chewy, rubbery bit, that is a fish belly.
21:22I like that.
21:22That's good.
21:23It's a really nice balance.
21:25It's very savory.
21:33The Baba Nanya are descendants of the original Chinese merchants who settled here
21:38hundreds of years ago.
21:40Over time, they took on a lot of flavors and ingredients of their new environment.
21:47The resulting cuisine is a truly unique mutation.
21:50A fusion of local Southeast Asian ingredients and taste preferences
21:54with Chinese technique and preparation.
22:01But it's a cuisine in danger of disappearing, as so many of the ingredients are difficult to source.
22:06And because dishes like this, Otak Otak, a fish custard wrapped in banana leaf,
22:11are so labor intensive to prepare.
22:17See, everything makes use of local ingredients.
22:21Banana leaves, coconut.
22:23These leaves which grow wild.
22:27Is it too hot?
22:28No, it's fantastic.
22:31Just awesome.
22:32They're very strong flavors, aren't they?
22:36Yeah, but strong sounds like a bad thing.
22:39No, I mean...
22:41They're forceful.
22:42These are not shy flavors.
22:43They declare their intentions.
22:50Requiring about a day and a half spent in the kitchen,
22:53but well worth the effort, Mom's specialty.
22:55It's dried cuttlefish.
22:57Oh, nice.
22:58Now, this is a very, very traditional dish.
23:01You know, Chinese New Year.
23:03And you eat that with fresh lettuce and a dollop of sambal belacan.
23:07It gives you a real kick.
23:08All right.
23:09You take a dollop of this, put it in that.
23:13Put a dollop of that and put it in your mouth.
23:17Okay.
23:18And how hot or spicy you want it is personal.
23:26Very brave.
23:28Delicious.
23:30You always say very delicious.
23:31I say all you say in TV.
23:34Sometimes I'm like, oh, no.
23:37So?
23:38Oh, man.
23:39General verdict.
23:39So good.
23:40Oh, it was not good.
23:41It was really great.
23:43I'm not flattering you.
23:44I'm just telling you the truth.
23:45It's really great.
23:46Best meal I've had so far in Penang.
23:49And in fact, it's the best meal I've ever had in Malaysia.
23:51Far away.
23:52Not even close.
23:52What an accolade.
23:54Not even close.
23:55It's huge.
23:56It's so great.
23:57We won't give the address because if, you know, people will see this on television and they'll be hanging out front.
24:03If you're in Penang and you're not fortunate enough to get an invite to Helen's mom's house, then you might swing by New Lane.
24:13Street by day, food wonderland by night.
24:16This is exactly where I've wanted to be since I set foot in Penang.
24:24This is exactly where I like to eat.
24:26Places that look like this.
24:28What's going on?
24:29You know what that is?
24:31Uh, tripes.
24:32And they look dried or smoked?
24:33Dried and deep fried.
24:35Fried oyster.
24:37God, it's a wonderland of food.
24:39Have you seen that?
24:40France.
24:40Wow.
24:41Here we call it water chicken.
24:43Isn't it amazing, the smell?
24:45Hoken meat, curry meat, sauté.
24:49All the best of Penang.
24:51Tonight's order of business for me here, char quai chow.
24:53So I'm looking for the best char quai chow here.
24:55Okay, we're going to order from a lady over there.
24:58She's been frying char quai chow for over 20 years.
25:01It's a husband and wife team and they took over from their parents.
25:06Literally meaning stir-fried rice cake strips, there are many versions.
25:11Well, first of all, what are the ingredients of a classic char quai chow?
25:14Okay, you start off with lard.
25:17Right.
25:17Pork fat, really important.
25:18A bit of prawn.
25:21Noodles.
25:22So the noodles, what we call quai chow, bean sprouts, chopped garlic, chili, ground chili.
25:28And then the special, the really special ingredient is the sauce.
25:34It's not just plain old soy sauce.
25:37Every stall has its own secret recipe, which they cook at home.
25:40That murky mystery sauce.
25:43Yep.
25:45Okay, that's the char quai chow.
25:48You know, it's so dark and rich, it smells almost chocolate.
25:52But the secret of a good char quai chow is the heat of the frying pan.
25:57Right.
25:58You would never be able to do a really good char quai chow at home.
26:01Some of these frying pans are generations old.
26:04Right.
26:04They're so thick, they're so well seasoned.
26:07It's not an actual ingredient, but it's an important ingredient.
26:10The wok, what's it called?
26:11Wok?
26:11Hay.
26:12Wok hang, and that's essentially the taste of the wok itself.
26:16And a new wok will burn, whereas this one with that same heat doesn't.
26:22It just caramelizes.
26:24But rich or poor, people of all incomes love this still, right?
26:28I mean, this is deep roots cooking here.
26:30And did you like this little extra touch?
26:33A little banana leaf?
26:34Yeah.
26:34Yeah, it's good.
26:35Because you know why that also adds to the taste?
26:38When the very hot noodles hit it, it cooks it slightly and sends this aroma through the noodles.
26:46And it also adds to it as well.
26:49I mean, there's a lot of pretty food on this street.
26:51Brightly colored, altering textures.
26:53This is not the most attractive looking dish in the world.
26:56A good one, in my experience, is pretty brown and murky looking.
27:00It's delicious.
27:01But it's delicious.
27:01I was like, this is just so sort of comforting.
27:06We'd grow up eating this kind of thing, no?
27:08This is a typical example of how Malaysians don't care about where we eat, as long as the food is good.
27:17I mean, we sit by the roadside, by drains, you know, stray dogs and cats wandering around.
27:24Petrol fumes.
27:27Mixed with the chili and lard.
27:30Not a problem for me.
27:31It's not a problem for us, true.
27:33I don't know.
27:34I think I've crossed a line somewhere because this is exactly the environment I like to eat.
27:39We love our food, don't we?
27:41Also, I'm a big fan of sitting on these things.
27:45The perfect restaurant should have these.
27:57Though Penang is a relatively small island, there's still a lot of undiscovered country.
28:11You can get away off the beaten track.
28:13And eat really, really well, when you do.
28:16Chinese fishing villages like this one provide the whole island with seafood
28:24Joseph a local guide knows this area well
28:31he grew up accustomed to the islands choice seafood
28:36for our lunch he bypasses the middleman and goes straight to the source
28:43we're meeting at a traditional tea house a bar cafe really where local fishermen come
28:52after work have a beer some food catch up on some fine television this old show seems
28:59very popular with the locals no menu here they cook what you bring
29:13this area is a more traditional old-school fishing area yeah I've never made this part of the island
29:26before but Joseph was telling me that even the locals on Penang have only just started coming
29:31to this part it's called Balik Pula which literally means the other side
29:36the history that's passed down is the first name of this island is the island of sweet water which
29:46makes this island ideal for sailors so that is why people from east and west few thousand years ago
29:54came to Penang Island this is some deep roots cooking and like in much of Penang it's all
30:02about the sauces the incredible sauces come over here oh now that looks good oh and that looks good
30:12wow so you got a method to this Joseph usually we start with a fish here you go my little friend
30:25well that sauce is delicious that's a really interesting mix of flavors is like a little bit
30:36Indian influence but a lot of Cantonese Chinese method of cooking using Southeast Asian ingredients
30:44oh skins nice and crispy all right you're suggesting the craw next oh wow look at that oh that's that's
30:53pretty brains what are they stuff with that's garlic stuffed in there yeah there's some garlic and
31:04there are common ginger there are also the Chinese dates dates Chinese states and some spring onions
31:13right man that's good yeah oh look at that next the crab chili crab is something I've had many times
31:24before but never like this yes the crabs are beautiful but it's this dark mysterious ooze now that is
31:34magic my friends oh yeah deep sea you said yeah these crabs very seldom you are it is found in shallow waters
31:50hmm and certain season it will come up at a certain time to shallow waters right which the
31:58uh light boats can get them so normally if you do not go directly to the fishermen it's very rare that you can buy it in the market
32:10damn that was good that a crab in particular I mean who knew is this a particularly good or famous restaurant
32:18there is this just another place where the locals are frequently because that sauce is extraordinary
32:25flavors here are really balanced you know sweet spicy savory sour just all they're always right there
32:34this was a pretty mild meal but the spicier dishes it's always just painful enough just perfect
32:41hello yes scary scary you scared me it's a dragon in a Chinese new year tiger ceiling is a mythical mythical beast yes in
32:57Malaysia we celebrate the full Chinese new year many thousand years ago Chinese in China were very poor
33:06yeah yeah to have food on the table is considered as a blessing okay so everything about our tradition
33:14and our culture is about food well-being health and beauty
33:18night in Penang
33:37time to head out again
33:42unfortunately David's choice of vehicle as well I don't know a little much
33:52so where to I just for a little cruise
33:57we're popular
34:00well
34:01I feel like
34:04Liberace's wedding here
34:06sorry
34:08it's harrowing
34:10the rose-scented death trap
34:14so there's no container loss here you can drink in public
34:18out the street
34:19uh that I do not know
34:21look we need a refill can you pull up here
34:27another one in the same
34:28yeah okay
34:29beer please
34:33a pit stop for beer helps
34:35somewhat
34:36with our gardenia carpeted charity
34:39all right the list I spiral downward into an even darker place
34:48David stops me back reminding me that Penang is a foodie wonderland that the flowers aren't so bad
34:56me is a general term for noodles all sorts of noodles so then you have me that meat goreng is fried
35:04sotong kangkong that's good squid and vegetables
35:09I always feel a little funny about eating street squid
35:13that guy's fast
35:19that's the speed I'm talking about
35:22we're just about there
35:23okay
35:24here we go
35:25finally we reach our destination
35:28welcome to red garden
35:35hey it's we in tonight
35:37while octogenarian break dancers bust a move on the dance floor we get crazy with the food
35:45and a large selection of hawker options
35:49frog porridge maybe not
35:51not really the mood for frog
35:53hockey and me of course
35:54that's already on the go
35:57chicken rice
35:58I do like chicken rice
36:01gianni
36:02little bock
36:05and me
36:06oh I can't choose
36:07we let the house pick some stuff
36:09all right
36:11let's get a bucket of beer
36:15so people come here
36:17locals and tourists alike
36:19they eat a big bowl of noodles
36:21or grab some food
36:23and then they dance
36:25yes well apparently so
36:27some seem to be doing it for a while
36:30why here?
36:31why would you go to a food court to dance?
36:33how did this happen?
36:35ah here we go
36:39fish head
36:41wow
36:42wow
36:43big head
36:48fish head curry?
36:50again?
36:51that's so last week
36:53not really
36:54that is around this part of the world
36:56some legendary fundamental s**t my friend
37:00that'll wake you up
37:02I think it's only going to get spicier dude
37:04they keep warning us about this
37:06haha
37:11wow
37:12that'll scorch your lips right off
37:19mmmm
37:20that broth is like
37:21you just let that s**t cook all day
37:23right?
37:24reducing down
37:25getting stronger and stronger
37:26man
37:27man
37:28these broths here
37:29the stocks are
37:33wonderful
37:34I mean that's really
37:35that's fiery
37:36they put in the time
37:37they put in the time
37:38to just let this stuff kind of seep in
37:40just slowly slowly slowly slowly
37:42you know I've come to a new place of enlightenment
37:46at this moment actually
37:47I've been eating fish head curry for years
37:50it's not even about the fish head man
37:52it's that
37:54it's that liquid
37:55it's f**king awesome
37:57I'm getting high off the f**k
37:58no really?
38:00yeah yeah
38:01I'm getting like a buzz
38:03we're not getting back on the rickshaw are we?
38:09that we're done with that?
38:10it's a little uncomfortable with the flowers
38:13best way to get around Penang in my opinion
38:36scooter
38:38you get to see a lot up close
38:40smell it all
38:42take it in
38:43but the real payoff
38:44is when you run into a little of this
38:49traffic backs up
38:50you squeeze through
38:52I'm headed to the dark heart
38:55of Penang Fine Dining
38:57all those people standing on line for hours all day
39:01and all night long
39:0224 hours around the clock
39:04they know their food
39:06welcome to Line Clear
39:09lots of people
39:12lots of food
39:13lots of cats
39:15the cats
39:17are a good sign
39:19it's non-stop
39:22it's 24 hours
39:23wouldn't be more hours
39:24yeah
39:25wow
39:26it's also the place where you get yourself sobered up
39:30getting yourself knocked out from clubs around here
39:32they come here
39:33I let Leonard do the ordering for both of us
39:37look at this
39:38fried chicken
39:39amazing fried chicken by the way
39:40fish roe
39:41beef
39:42shrimp
39:43some squid
39:44and vegetables
39:45all on the same plate of rice
39:47and then covered with sauces
39:48from each
39:49it makes no sense
39:52that shouldn't work
39:54how could that be good
39:56but it is
39:57oh lord
39:58it is
39:59wow
40:00line clear
40:03thank you
40:04so
40:06so
40:07the famous
40:08nasi kandar
40:09yes
40:10and
40:11if you're into nasi kandar
40:12this place
40:13is the most famous
40:15yeah
40:16and it's called what
40:17line clear
40:18what does that mean
40:19basically what it means is
40:20no problem
40:21it's cool
40:22yeah
40:23wow
40:24what is this here
40:25okay
40:26this is a fish roe
40:27look at that man
40:28nice color
40:33it's tasty
40:34it's almost like steak
40:35i'll tell you
40:37they're generous with the portion
40:38yeah
40:4324 hours
40:447 days a week
40:46yep
40:47so those guys are just slinging that stuff all day long
40:50consensus is everyone pretty much says this is the best
40:54i mean if you google nasi kandar
40:56this is the first place it comes up
40:59man the fried chicken is pretty awesome
41:01and it's a strange miracle that all of these people have to do
41:04it's a miracle that all of these sauces together tastes so delicious
41:07i mean they belong together
41:09in a way
41:10i've always mentioned to my friends that this country is best represented in a nasi kandar store
41:17you think so
41:18yep
41:19i mean i'm not gonna argue with that because this is pretty damn delicious
41:23you wouldn't think all these things would go together in the same plate too i mean
41:26no it's just a combination i don't know what the infusion is just unexplainable
41:33i talk a lot about getting lost in the east
41:44about breaking away from the world you left behind
41:51if only for a week for a few days
41:55it's easy to do that here
41:57to take pleasure in the unfamiliar
42:01to be forced just walking down the street or ordering breakfast to learn new things
42:12let me tell you that feels good
42:15especially in penack
42:17especially in pen jack
42:21definitely stay safe
42:24you
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