Bill Baileys Vietnam - Season 1 Episode 01- Hoi An
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00:00I first came to Vietnam nearly 10 years ago and what strikes me now is what a
00:06place of contrast this is. I'm amazed by the pace and the scale of change but also
00:15some things like the endless green of the rice fields remain the same. This is a
00:22country that's surging ahead to meet the demands of a globalized world and a
00:27country that's still dealing with the legacy of its turbulent past. As Vietnam
00:33carefully navigates the path ahead so am I. As long as this road has no potholes
00:40I'm good to go. From the frenetic pace of urban life to the calm reflection of
00:47rural tranquility and all points in between I'm on a mission to delve deeper
00:54into this fascinating country.
00:59Vietnam. Of course it's a place of tea plantations, traffic, temples but then it's something else entirely.
01:08Come with me on an unusual unfiltered unforgettable adventure.
01:24My mind's off on a whole bunch of other tangents. I'm thinking about a sandwich I had in 1982.
01:30As this nation commemorates 50 years since the end of the war. So as soon as it's safe right?
01:36I'll explore this fertile land, ask the big questions. Am I in the right place?
01:41Embrace new experiences, even my own future. From them you are smart and tested.
01:48Is there any, you know, good news? Navigate tight spaces.
01:54I'm not entirely sure how I'm going to get out.
01:56Make some new friends.
01:58Separated at first.
02:00This is a voyage of discovery, of strange encounters.
02:03This is your whole life in a plant.
02:05An enchanted stroll to one of the most fascinating places on earth.
02:12Welcome to Bill Bailey's Vietnam adventure.
02:24In this great nation, when it comes to exploring how the contrasts of old and new are balanced effortlessly together,
02:33there's no better example than Hoi An oh hi five oh oh photo photo yeah okay
02:44coming in oh blimey oh hang on oh wait a minute I'll be sucking into this
02:53something yeah all right what okay then bye thanks thanks see ya look at me
03:04practically a local Hoi An is a place where equilibrium is second nature
03:11between past and present calm and chaos craft and commerce all carried with the
03:18grace of someone who's done it all their life suddenly went in then now as I
03:27navigate this country officially called the Socialist Republic of Vietnam I will
03:32explore the big bustling cities of Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi and also get to the
03:37rural idylls of Dalat and Sapa plus coastal Ha Long Bay but this place Hoi An
03:44offers both and it felt to me like the perfect place to start my odyssey
03:49smack bang in the middle of Vietnam's 3,200 kilometers of coastline Hoi An has
03:55been linking the nation to the wider world one boatload at a time this whole
04:00coast used to be part of the maritime silk route where ships belonging to the
04:04Portuguese the French the Chinese and the Japanese would come here to trade and
04:09head off around the world in towns like Hoi An and nearby Da Nang there's still a
04:16thriving fishing community and I want to find out what is uniquely Vietnamese
04:21about this ancient port this is Mantae Beach where fishing isn't just an
04:29industry it's a way of life passed down through generation every morning before
04:34the tourists are up and about you can see fishing families take to the water as the
04:39sun rises I'm very taken by these round fishing boats which look more like giant floating rice
04:47bowls Ha is a fisher person from a small family business run by her mother and she's
04:55kindly showing me the ropes so this is like a family business going back
05:00generations she started to catch fish during the nine years old when you were nine years old
05:08what what are the sort of things that they catch what sort of fish
05:11I have a lot of fish and snow snails right and shrimp yeah yeah but it's just really right off the
05:27beach here so not far not sort of deep fishing you see it is the same like it's not so far yeah
05:34fishermen pulling their catch by casting circular nets off the shoreline or from one of these basket
05:40boats no small undertaking imagine it's you have to be you have to constantly fish all the time
05:47because otherwise you're not making enough money to the loop you know so it's pretty relentless you
05:53need to do everything to make you and earn some more money modern versions of the basket boats are a mix
06:01of wood and fiberglass they remain a floating symbol of Vietnamese independence this is bamboo
06:09yes right I mean on the face of it doesn't look like a particularly sea worthy vessel it being more
06:20of a bowl than a boat so the thing is about these boats they are quite ingenious during the French
06:26colonial rule the French imposed attacks on boats but the Vietnamese got around that by putting to sea
06:35in what is effectively a basket so these vessels became hugely popular up the coast because of their
06:43ingenuity because of the design but also because you could go fishing tax-free it's not a bad story I feel
06:55game to give one of these precarious floating thimbles the shot I confess while the locals make them look
07:01easy they do defy the principles of stability oh yeah I definitely got this okay I'm going out with
07:08my new friends to throw a fishing net out yeah yeah yeah sit down here yeah just there yeah all right
07:16oh nice okay let's go
07:21Go away from me!
07:23Don't stop me!
07:25Don't stop me!
07:27Whoa, oh!
07:37How was that supposed to happen?
07:39Whoa! I'm soaked!
07:41It's weird.
07:43I thought you knew how to drive this.
07:45I'm getting out.
07:47Was it a freak wave or did I just unbalance it?
07:50I'm no sailor, but the lack of a keel seems to be a major oversight.
07:55Either way, I'm defeated.
07:57It's not designed for an Englishman.
07:59Maybe a Welshman.
08:02I thought that's what I might do, you see.
08:04I thought I might channel my Welsh roots and be able to steer a coracle,
08:10draw on my Celtic DNA, but that didn't work out.
08:14And, er, I was just a bloke in a giant fruit basket spinning around in the surf,
08:22much to the hilarity of the local fishing family.
08:28At Manti Beach, the fisher folk employ time-honored techniques
08:32passed through generations used to bring in the fish.
08:35But there's one technique that has my attention
08:37that is a little at odds with, well, fishing.
08:41Local monks are engaging in a practice of release,
08:47what you might say is the opposite of catching.
08:50In the spirit of Buddhism and showing loving kindness to all beings,
08:54including animals, this group are throwing the fish back.
08:58We released them out.
09:00Released it?
09:00Yeah.
09:01We bought them, like, instead of go to a restaurant,
09:04we released them so they can have another.
09:06Oh, I see.
09:07Everyone.
09:07We all chip in the money.
09:09Chip in the money.
09:10And some other, we represent people come out here and do the release.
09:14So what did the fishermen think about this thing?
09:17Well, they, er, they just sell.
09:20They don't mind, they just...
09:21Sell to us or sell to the restaurant.
09:24They're making money either way.
09:26Right, right.
09:27It was a lovely thing.
09:28It's a lovely sentiment, you know.
09:29It's a sort of group of Buddhist monks.
09:35They get together, they have a whip round, everyone chips in.
09:38And they come to the market and they buy up a whole bowl of prawns and crabs and...
09:44Just release them back into the sea.
09:47To, I guess, the slightly baffled expressions of the fishermen.
09:53You want to do what?
09:56The idea that, you know, you just release these living things back into the wild so that they have a chance in the next life.
10:05He said, if you kill them, that's it.
10:07They're not going to ascend.
10:08It's a lovely sentiment, two sides of life here, and somehow both make perfect sense.
10:16It's a kind of balance that's oddly comforting and more inspiring than I expected.
10:22Manti Beach is nestled right at the foot of Sontra Peninsula in Da Nang, not far from Hoi An.
10:28And it's right opposite a major fishing village where the cycle of life flows as it has for hundreds of years,
10:35as the residents hunt for a seafood bargain.
10:38After my unique fishing basket experience, I'm following the produce from sea to market.
10:45And this is no real refrigeration.
10:49The food just goes straight here.
10:51The local people, the local restaurants.
10:55The Manti markets have been serving generations of people since the 18th century,
11:00including this guy, a refugee who has returned to his old stomping ground,
11:04Chef Duk, has agreed to show me around.
11:06Duk.
11:07Good morning.
11:09Hello.
11:09How are you?
11:10I'm very well, Bill.
11:11Good.
11:11Nice to see you.
11:12Welcome to the world of veggies.
11:15I'm looking.
11:15This is a pumpkin flowers.
11:17I'm going to, I'm going to stop them with prawns.
11:21Oh.
11:22With ginger, garlic, and onion.
11:23Right.
11:24I'm going to panseed them with olive oil and twisted lime juice.
11:27Sounds delicious.
11:28Love bites, Bill.
11:29Love bites.
11:31All right.
11:31It's one of my favorites.
11:32Great.
11:33A restaurateur and local legend around these parts, everyone knows Chef Duk, and he's the
11:40perfect companion to learn about how these markets have changed over time.
11:43This is an extraordinary place, Hoi An.
11:48I love it.
11:49It's my first time here.
11:50Oh, yeah?
11:50Yeah.
11:51Cool.
11:52It's, it's, I just love the atmosphere here.
11:54It's great.
11:55Yeah.
11:55For me, it's a soulful place.
11:58Amazing.
11:58The people, I think the past also give me the, the, the, the energy to, to, to, to, to live.
12:07Yeah.
12:07Yeah.
12:08It feels that.
12:09It feels that there's a lot.
12:10It's a place where lots of people have come over centuries, you know, to trade.
12:15That's right.
12:15It's that sort of history to it.
12:17That's right.
12:17Hoi An was the biggest trade port.
12:20And back in the day, so imagine all the European, South Asian, they all conquered great here.
12:28And I imagine six, seven hundred years ago, it's the same thing.
12:32It's just more Italian drinking wine, cooking food, and the Chinese hanging out, the Japanese
12:37hanging out, Vietnamese hanging out.
12:39Chef Duk spent many days as a little boy helping his mother to sell produce at the markets.
12:44In a way, they are his spiritual home.
12:46This amazing lady.
12:47I know all these women.
12:48Oh, you know everyone.
12:49I know coconut lady, I know the flowers one, I know the spices one, I know the noodles
12:53one, I know all those ladies.
12:56I bet, and they all know you as well.
12:57Yeah, for 20 years.
12:5921 years I've been shopping here, you know, and they've taught me a lot how to cook with
13:05a local specialty.
13:06Duk has invited me to his restaurant in Hoi An, and I'm already salivating in anticipation.
13:11These markets are a sensory ambush, with smells coming at you in all directions, especially
13:19the fresh aroma of fish.
13:21fish.
13:22But this guy won't be getting thrown back in the sea today, it's too late for him.
13:28That's the last one, the last Mohican, Bill.
13:30Wow, look at that.
13:31Look at this.
13:32This is the snapper.
13:33The golden snapper.
13:34That is beautiful.
13:35Wow.
13:36Wow.
13:37Come on.
13:38Yeah.
13:39This is how red it is.
13:40Oh, right.
13:41It's super slimy.
13:42Yeah.
13:43That's right.
13:44You need slime.
13:45Yeah.
13:46You want slimy, fresh fish.
13:49Smell this.
13:50Smell ocean.
13:51Smells of the sea.
13:52Smell like ocean.
13:53Yeah.
13:54The eyes, it's beautiful, it's clear.
13:57We're going to make some sea geese.
14:00Wow.
14:01Ginger, garlic and onion, honey, lime juice, chilli, honey.
14:07Sounds amazing.
14:08Yeah.
14:09It's clear I'm in the presence of a master.
14:11Having left Vietnam as a war refugee, Chef Duc has returned a culinary artist.
14:17I was out of Vietnam for 20 years, so I'm learning from all corners of the world.
14:22Yeah.
14:23For a good 11 years, and this is amazing chaos.
14:30It strikes me that you're drawing on lots of different elements here that come from your experiences of traveling around the world.
14:38I'll get you to support the local fresh here.
14:40Yeah.
14:41Home grown, home catch, super, super fresh.
14:44And it sort of increases your kind of enjoyment of it.
14:49It activates your taste buds.
14:51You are very orgasmic in a way.
14:54That's how I love to cook.
14:55Wow.
14:56That's how I try to make people happy, and to make people happy, and at the same time...
15:02Turn them on.
15:03Turn them on.
15:04Get them sexually charged.
15:05Charge them up.
15:06You smell.
15:07The scent is important.
15:08Wow.
15:09You smell the flavor.
15:10You hear.
15:11I'm looking forward to this dinner with you, mate.
15:13Yeah.
15:14My new friend, Duc, has left a big impression on me.
15:20There's a calm, quiet strength about him.
15:23He's sending me off to learn as much as I can about being Vietnamese, Hoi An style, to discover the sights, sounds, and history that lured him home.
15:33As I navigate these old streets, it's easy to see why this smaller Vietnamese city, known for its well-preserved ancient town, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
15:44And one of the town's most famous attractions from the past is still going strong.
15:49This is one of the great places in Vietnam for tailoring.
15:53And in the 1500s, Hoi An was known as Silk Road by the Sea.
15:58Lots of people coming here, lots of traders, lots of merchants.
16:01So it's quite a cosmopolitan place, even back then.
16:04People wanted fancy suits made.
16:07And these days, you can pop out for a banh mi and come back with a bespoke suit.
16:11In my case, I want some new threads for my dinner with Duc.
16:15My wife told me that most men looked like James Bond in a suit.
16:20When she said most men, I don't think she meant me.
16:23But it was worth a shot.
16:24Oh, my word.
16:28You want to have a lot of something here as well?
16:31Look at that.
16:32That is proper.
16:33Yeah.
16:34I think Elton John's been here already, eh?
16:37I mean, now we're talking, it's a little bit too flash for me these days.
16:43I mean, I might have worn that in my younger days.
16:46Yeah.
16:47But yeah, I mean, I think if I was maybe working as a sort of matador, maybe, yeah, but...
16:55Handmade tailoring is an art.
16:57The tailors work so fast, you half expect the suit to be done before they finish measuring you.
17:02I'm getting fitted up for something fancy.
17:05This plate, how long has this place been here?
17:07We are the first tailor in Hoi An.
17:10Right.
17:11Yes.
17:12Wow.
17:13So how many people, how many people work here then?
17:16It's 100 tailors.
17:18100 tailors here.
17:19We employ them.
17:20Wow.
17:21Yes.
17:22It must be really busy then.
17:24It's like people working non-stop here.
17:28Yeah.
17:29Yeah.
17:30We are a small, the local people.
17:33Right.
17:34So we're supporting a lot for them.
17:36Mm.
17:37Yeah.
17:38Training them and then help them have like a good lead.
17:43There are around 3 million textile workers in Vietnam.
17:47I'm learning while the tools may have modernized, the rhythm of the textile trade is the same as it ever was.
17:53I've ordered a suit and I'm excited.
17:57The tailors of Hoi An have rightly become globally renowned.
18:02And their industry is helping to turbo charge the Vietnamese economy and attract record levels of foreign investment.
18:10But what I find so heartening is that something that requires such a degree of artisanship and craft can still have a place in today's fast paced,
18:22globalized world.
18:28Heading out of town from the bustle of Hoi An, I fancied a breather and I found the perfect place.
18:36High on the hill just outside Da Nang is a majestic beauty who I need to have a word with.
18:42It's an amazing temple pagoda complex up here.
18:49Beautiful bonsai trees everywhere.
18:52And the Lady Buddha standing here under the shadow of Sontra Mountain is here to protect the fishermen, to give them calm seas and to be the sort of guardian of the bay.
19:06So this is the thing. Where was Lady Buddha when I was floundering in my basket boat?
19:12Busy, I would suggest, or perhaps it was outside her jurisdiction.
19:16The Lady Buddha isn't just a statue. She's a spiritual landmark and an icon.
19:26And she sits alongside the impressive Lin Ung pagoda.
19:31The site is considered a Buddhist paradise on earth.
19:33But if temples aren't your thing, perhaps the Zen residents will appeal.
19:38A troop of macaques who have decided to up their foraging game have moved in.
19:45These monkeys have found a good spot here.
19:51It's obviously signs up everywhere saying don't feed the wildlife.
19:56But people, of course, they do, you know, they bring little snacks for them.
19:59And the monkeys know that they're not stupid.
20:01They're just hanging around here waiting for an easy lunch.
20:06You know, why spend all day foraging when tourists will hand you a high-protein snack?
20:14They're pretty canny, these monkeys.
20:16When you study these monkeys, you realize how genetically similar we are.
20:21Some would say I'm more similar than most.
20:24These macaques are very sociable animals.
20:29You know, they tend to live in troops, family troops, about sort of 50 or so.
20:34And I reckon this is just one big family troop here.
20:39They've staked out this territory for themselves.
20:42You know, no other family troops getting this gig.
20:53No, hooligans, like the monkey mafia.
20:55You've got this territory sewn up, haven't you, mate?
20:58Just don't chuck the plastic, mate.
21:02Just put it in the bin.
21:05Like us, a diet high in sugar and fat can lead them to all sorts of health problems,
21:10like diabetes and heart issues.
21:12But you can't tell them.
21:13Look, a lovely leaf.
21:15A tasty leaf.
21:17No, mate.
21:18He's like, forget it.
21:20Where's the good stuff?
21:22Look at that.
21:23You want that?
21:24Don't even...
21:25Don't even insult me with that leaf.
21:29Have you got any cheesy ice cream?
21:31For the record, I did not feed any monkeys.
21:34And if you come here, neither should you.
21:39While the Da Nang monkeys are tucking into fast food like seasoned city dwellers,
21:45down the coast in Hoi An, time seems to have stood still.
21:50This picturesque place is a living piece of history.
21:53It's made up of over 1,000 timber-framed buildings from the 1600s that are still in use today.
22:01In what now seems like a fortunate turn of events,
22:04an economic slowdown in the 19th century meant there was no money to update the town.
22:09And all the old structures were left standing, untouched, including this impressive overpass.
22:16Right in the heart here of Hoi An's old town is an architectural marvel.
22:22This, the Japanese bridge, was built in 1597 to connect the Japanese community
22:29to the Chinese community on the other side of the canal.
22:32And it's an iconic landmark of Vietnam.
22:35It's deemed to be historically significant enough to have made it onto the money.
22:39It's actually on the 20,000 dong note.
22:43I mean, there's Uncle Ho on one side, as you'd imagine, but on the other side, there it is.
22:48This is a reminder of the fact this place was once one of the most significant ports in Southeast Asia.
22:55I mean, they all came here.
22:56The Portuguese came in the 1500s bringing Christianity and firearms, a potent combo.
23:02The Dutch, the British came here looking to buy silk and spice and ceramics.
23:07And then the French came here with designs on the whole country.
23:10And there's a huge amount of Chinese influence here as well.
23:13You can see it in the architectures.
23:15They came here and they built temples and assembly halls, shop houses, many of which are still here.
23:21And today, the Japanese bridge is not much more than a tourist attraction.
23:26But it's a reminder that this place was once an international crossroads of cultures.
23:33In the old town, this historical legacy is present everywhere you turn.
23:40And you're often rewarded by a little off-piste curiosity.
23:45Oh, yes, this is a sort of cut-down version of the boat I was in earlier on.
23:51Clearly a bit of residual bowl trauma.
23:54Much like Chef Duc searching for quality produce at the markets, I'm reminded how much care goes into everything handmade here.
24:03Ah!
24:04Hi, Will.
24:05This is your suit here.
24:06This is it?
24:07Yes.
24:08Wow.
24:09It's only been 48 hours since I was measured up.
24:11But the tailors have worked their magic.
24:13My suit is ready.
24:15Wonderful. Thank you so much.
24:16I'm just going to try it on.
24:17Yes.
24:20You put it on and then come out.
24:22Okay.
24:23All right.
24:24Denise is clearly waiting for me to transform into Daniel Craig.
24:27And let's be honest, it's going to be a long wait.
24:33How it looks?
24:34Pretty good.
24:35Yeah.
24:36So how you feel about here?
24:37It looks great.
24:38Feels really good.
24:39How about the bling?
24:40The beading.
24:41I love all the extra detail, the beading and everything.
24:43It's fantastic.
24:44I want to say, I've tried to learn the Vietnamese.
24:49Beautiful.
24:51How do you say it?
24:52Deb.
24:53Deb.
24:54Deb.
24:55Yeah.
24:56Deb.
24:57I'm going to wear this to all sorts of things.
24:59Events.
25:00Yeah.
25:01Shows, premieres.
25:02Yeah.
25:03Yeah.
25:04Award ceremonies.
25:05Yes.
25:06The shops.
25:07Discount the shops in it.
25:08I mean, I've never taken it off.
25:09Hang on.
25:10I'll just do my fashion walk.
25:11Hold on.
25:12I almost look like I know what I'm doing.
25:17You've got to look, and then you've got to look away.
25:19So you've got to look into the camera.
25:20Not bad for a bloke who usually dresses like he's lost in a laundry basket.
25:28Supermodel moves.
25:29The resemblance is uncanny.
25:31Hoi An, I have arrived.
25:34Right, that's enough of that.
25:35Hoi An's past is steeped in trade, a melting pot of merchants from China, Japan and Europe.
25:49And just outside the old town, they weren't only trading goods.
25:53They were shaping them out of the earth into pottery.
25:57Shaping clay dates back over 500 years here.
26:00And now, one enthusiastic Englishman is about to try his hand at it.
26:04What could possibly go wrong?
26:06Hello.
26:07My first time at the potter's wheel, and Nghia and Toi are guiding me through.
26:14A bit closer.
26:15Closer?
26:16Yeah.
26:17Closer?
26:18Yeah.
26:19Why?
26:20Because you can touch here.
26:22Oh, I see.
26:23Right.
26:24Oh, okay.
26:25This is the smallest stool I've ever sat on.
26:32She like this all the time.
26:34She's quite strict.
26:38Now what?
26:42These charming gigglers are part of the Thanh Ha Pottery Village, one of the oldest in Vietnam.
26:48The clay we are using is from the nearby river.
26:51And people in this region have been turning out bowls and plates since the 1500s.
26:56And nothing much has really changed since then.
26:59Everything is still done by hand.
27:01And foot.
27:02Oh, this is analogue.
27:03Not electric, then.
27:04No.
27:05No.
27:06Use old woman power.
27:08Right.
27:09It's all hands on deck.
27:10Oh.
27:11And you move your finger up inside.
27:12Yeah.
27:13Oh!
27:14I tell you what.
27:15If it was my job to spin that wheel, I guarantee my foot would have been encased in a pot by now.
27:19I'm just mesmerized by that foot going around.
27:22Right, okay.
27:23Now what are we doing?
27:24I'll put the pattern in.
27:26Oh, right.
27:27Okay.
27:28Like this.
27:32Pottery here has mostly been a role exclusive to women, as the men were tasked with seemingly more labour-intensive jobs.
27:40With no motors, just good old-fashioned leg power, I reckon I'd take the field labour over this.
27:45I don't mind spinning the...
27:46Can you tell her?
27:47I don't mind spinning the wheel.
27:48Oh, no, you are.
27:49She can have a sit down and a break.
27:50You want to try?
27:51Yeah.
27:52No, no.
27:53I'm just saying, I'll spin the wheel.
27:55You don't have to do that.
27:56Have a cup of tea or something.
27:58I'm told my instructor can make 100 items a day and has been plying a trade for 40 years.
28:04They should have wired that wheel up to the national grid.
28:07That's sustainable energy right there.
28:10But around here, 40 years on the job is nothing.
28:13This chap, Nu, is a fourth generation potter.
28:16How long has this chap here been working on these pots?
28:20How long has this chap here been working on these pots?
28:23How long?
28:2488, but I'm 18.
28:2617 years.
28:27Right.
28:28When he was 18.
28:30Hmm.
28:31Yeah, when he was 18.
28:32When he was 18 years old?
28:34Yeah, when he was 18.
28:35And now he's 88.
28:37He's 88?
28:38Yeah.
28:39He's 88?
28:40Yeah.
28:41You look good for 88.
28:42Yeah.
28:43He's more healthy than he was 18 years old.
28:4670 years.
28:4770 years.
28:48In the career.
28:49This is feeling like an important lesson in the secret to longevity.
28:52He's still working at 88.
28:54That's a good age.
28:55Does he not feel he wants to maybe, you know, retire, slow down a little bit?
29:00Yeah.
29:01Or he likes working?
29:02If he doesn't work, do you feel it?
29:05Oh, you see?
29:06He says if...
29:07He feels tired.
29:08He feels tired when he has nothing to do, but he do these things, he feels better.
29:19Yeah.
29:20I get that.
29:21Yeah.
29:22I get that.
29:23What's that?
29:24He asks you, how old are you?
29:26How old am I?
29:27Yeah.
29:28I don't know.
29:29You can see if we can guess.
29:32Bác đó.
29:33Ông đoán thử.
29:35Sáu mươi.
29:36Sáu mươi.
29:37Sáu mươi.
29:38Sí s tí.
29:39Dữ hoa hà.
29:40Bang on.
29:41Right?
29:42Absolutely.
29:43Yeah.
29:44Exactly.
29:45Shake my hand.
29:46Don't leave me hanging.
29:47Bác tay.
29:48Ông đoán giỏi quá.
29:51Đúng luôn.
29:52You got it.
29:54Absolutely.
29:55Bang on.
29:56Oh.
29:57Really?
29:58That's good, yeah.
29:59Aside from the flattery, what I love about this community is that age is no
30:04barrier to feeling useful. I hope that when I'm his age I'll still be
30:10contributing to life like he is or at least be able to sit on a tiny stool.
30:15Pots, lovely pots. Get your pots fresh off the potter's wheel. All of these bowls
30:24and crockery were used by local people was for functional use. But then with
30:28the advent of plastic and aluminium of course the demand dropped way off. So
30:33now really they're making pottery for souvenirs for tourists. But that doesn't
30:39mean to say there's any less worth in them. They're all made by hand and they're
30:46all made with love. Whether you're a 16th century Dutch merchant or a 21st century
30:54comedian, the clay is the same, just moulded for a slightly different crowd,
30:59proving Vietnamese resilience yet again.
31:04Long before Vietnam as we know it, there was the Champa civilization. Tucked away in the
31:12hills are the remnants of a kingdom of temple towers and mysterious ruins that
31:18whisper of a time before modern Vietnam. I've come to stand among them and feel the weight
31:23of centuries in the quiet. This is one of the most significant archaeological sites in
31:31the whole of Southeast Asia. This is the Mi Son temple complex. It was a political center
31:37of the Champa Kingdom and it was built between the 4th and the 13th century. Hindu gods were worshipped
31:44in Krishna, Vishnu, Shiva. It was a symbol of the power and the influence that the Champa civilization had
31:53and its connections with the world, especially India and Indonesia. I mean, they're actually quite small.
32:05You know, they would have been quite dark in here, but we're talking, you know, a thousand years ago.
32:15They would have been prayer rooms, meditation rooms. But these, amazingly well preserved.
32:32It's amazing that it's survived largely unscathed over the centuries. I mean, it took a bit of a battering
32:40by American bombers during the war. But I guess it's a testament to the skill of the builders that
32:47what remains is still quite stunningly beautiful. And now it's a UNESCO World Heritage site, but actually
33:00there's still around 200,000 Cham people in Vietnam. So it's a kind of a link to a
33:10lost empire. And I guess a reminder of the shifting power of kingdoms and dynasties that
33:21characterize Vietnam's history. Oh, it's this beautiful butterfly. It's just waiting for it to land.
33:32In my travels, I'm often drawn to documenting little moments like this, a red spot Jezebel.
33:40A way to pull me into a time and a place. I'm just trying to photograph these butterflies. There's so
33:46many butterflies feeding on these flowers around here. What I love doing is, is if you can just get a
33:54snap of them with the phone, then I can use that to draw them later on.
33:59If I can get really close to it, I'll be able to get a good shot.
34:09There we go. That's it.
34:10From ancient carvings and sacred towers to a tranquil moment with a pencil and paper.
34:26I was writing a book about British birds. And I just, in fact, my wife encouraged me to
34:40do a couple of sketches and they sort of, they came out okay. And so I've just been,
34:45I've been doing it ever since. I just, I find it, I love it. I mean, this is beautiful.
34:54Apart from, apart from this relentless chit chat, bikes, but of course that's part of being here.
35:06You're always going to hear a motorbike or something, even in a lovely spot like this.
35:12But this is a beautiful spot, sitting on the edge of the rice fields, you know. It's very relaxing.
35:21This is probably just a little, I don't know, you know, a little dwelling on the rice fields.
35:29And now it's a destination place. People will make the effort to come here because it's just so lovely.
35:34A little pause before trading pencils for chopsticks in my reunion with Chef Duc,
35:40which promises to be anything but ordinary. By day, Hoi An is all heritage and hustle.
35:47But by early evening, there's a buzz in the air, an anticipation of the night ahead.
35:53The Hoi River is one of the main attractions for tourists,
35:57where they come to be swept up in the romance for the famous lantern ritual.
36:05My aim here is to get a boat and set off into the night,
36:08with a paper lantern or two that will light up on the dark water,
36:12in unison with the hundreds of others, creating this dreamy spectacle.
36:18But this iconic tradition has been supersized into something a little overwhelming.
36:24I mean, it's just crowds of people taking mass selfies, there's people haggling to get on boats,
36:31buying lanterns to float on the water, street sellers, tour groups waving their flags.
36:39This is absolute mayhem.
36:44But it's great, though. It's kind of a real buzz about the place.
36:48The release of lanterns is supposed to symbolize the sending of prayers for good fortune.
36:55It's also a way to honor ancestors and connect with the spiritual realm.
37:00Oh, it's pretty cutthroat, this boat business, isn't it?
37:04Blimey.
37:05But all that's a bit lost.
37:10In trading terms, the supply and demand is a bit out of whack here.
37:13Too much demand, and the magic, sadly, is cut adrift.
37:17We're haggling to get a boat. And the thing is, by the time we got a boat sorted, one of these
37:23guys just sold it to someone else. There's a massive queue of people. They've been waiting
37:28for ages to get on the boat. And then, of course, you know, I show up and they're like,
37:34oh, how come you're getting a queue? Oh, I'm getting grief from the boat owners, the bloke,
37:43selling the boats and all the people have been queuing. This is quite stressful.
37:52Perhaps I might just attach myself to a Korean bridal party.
37:58I just, yeah, I'm with them. I'm just with the Korean trade delegation.
38:05Or just, if I just sat on a boat with a honeymoon couple, that'd be awkward, wouldn't it?
38:08Bye-bye. They're just, like, taking selfies and I'm just sitting there like a sort of
38:14spanner at the other end of the boat. Like, don't mind me, you know, you carry on your lovely
38:20romantic moment. Right, okay, let's go. Excuse me. Sorry. Sorry, pardon me. I'll just get through
38:27there. Thank you. Thank you very much. We're not actually going to get a boat, which kind of suits
38:32me, really. It's a bit touristy. It's not my thing. It's definitely a thing for some, getting swept up
38:38in this glittering display. But it's not for me. The lanterns didn't quite light up the night as I'd
38:45hoped. But thankfully, there's still one shining promise ahead. My friend Chef Duc is preparing
38:51something special. And I've been pondering many questions about his remarkable refugee story
38:56and returned to Vietnam. As the sun goes down around me, I'm feeling the need to sharpen up my look,
39:05to step things up a notch, prepare for the evening's proceedings. As the lanterns flicker to life,
39:11the river seems to sparkle almost as much as my suit. And the smell of sizzling seafood fills the air.
39:18I must admit, I feel quite dapper. And there's a lot of people just looking a little scruffy.
39:26A little bit like I looked at earlier today. So now I know how I did look and now I'm quite chuffed
39:32with this. I've already had many, many compliments about the suit, which is very gratifying. It's very
39:38true, isn't it? You put a suit on, you sort of carry yourself and it's likely a slightly better way.
39:43This is extraordinary, isn't it? It's amazing. The bustle, my throng of people taking selfies.
39:52I've never seen so many people take selfies. I think there's people taking selfies of people
39:58with other cameras. It's like a sort of meta-selfie. Just the right colour, lanterns,
40:03people and boats on the canal. Fantastic. I'm in good spirits and feeling peckish.
40:10Good timing for my date with Chef Duc. Chef Duc. Mr. Bill. How are you? I'm well.
40:18I thought I'd make a bit of an effort. Well, you're looking dapper yourself.
40:23Thanks, man. Nice to see you again. Yeah, good to see you. Yeah, come on in.
40:28This impressive establishment is Mango Mango, one of three restaurants owned by Chef Duc in Hoi An.
40:34Oh, here we go. Welcome to the hot kitchen.
40:42I'm going to show you what we talked about earlier about the sort of Vietnamese food, yeah?
40:46Yes. So I'm going to show you how to make a quickly
40:50mango ceviche my way. Okay. A bit of mango. This is the snapper from earlier on. That's right.
40:56Oh. Nowadays, big name celebrities come for dinner here, but getting here hasn't been an easy road for Chef Duc.
41:03Where did you learn how to do this? Yeah, I mean, you've had quite an amazing life, really.
41:08I left Vietnam as a refugee when I was 16 years old. It's hard to avoid the war.
41:13It's still impacting people's lives, and it's such a big part of Duc's story.
41:17In the refugee camp, I learned how to cook. Right.
41:21You know, refugee food. Six months later, I was fostered to Texas, and I was brought in by a Mexican-American family.
41:30Right.
41:31Yeah, and then I actually studied engineering, and then after engineering for a while, I came back to Vietnam to see my family.
41:40And I was my own little shock. I couldn't speak Vietnamese to my family.
41:46So... Why was that?
41:47Because for nine and a half years in America, I didn't speak Vietnamese.
41:51Hearing my family, hugging my family, I couldn't tell them my story.
41:55I said, I want to hang out with you. I want to speak Vietnamese.
41:59I want to eat Vietnamese. I want to be Vietnamese again.
42:03And Tara, I have mango ceviche for you. Would you like to taste it?
42:08Yes.
42:08Yeah.
42:09Yes.
42:13Salute.
42:14Salute.
42:15Ceviche.
42:15Ceviche.
42:16Whipped up in minutes, it doesn't get fresher than this. A signature mango-mango dish.
42:22Oh, that's really good.
42:23Remember that pumpkin flowers that we picked up earlier?
42:27Yeah, yeah.
42:28Would you like to try it?
42:29All right.
42:30You're stubborn with the beautiful chocolate prawn, ginger, garlic and onion, cilantro.
42:35Yeah.
42:36There we go.
42:37We're going to quickly put it on the pan.
42:39Since returning to Hoi An, Chef Duc is embracing the fresh flavours
42:44and giving back to the community with his cooking.
42:47But he's here today because of his strength of character and adaptability,
42:51having survived a near-death experience as a child.
42:54A lot of Vietnamese who live in the south was disagreeing with the policies.
43:00Back then, so they decided to exit us out of Vietnam by boat and by foot.
43:05And the life was pretty hard for a lot of people in the south.
43:08My parents said there's no future for me, so they put me on the boat,
43:12say good luck and goodbye.
43:14And then luckily I was inside that ice box, about yay big, yay long, lower, all packed in there
43:25like a sardine in the ice box for the first 12 hours, frozen.
43:30My God.
43:33And luckily I made it out.
43:35Yeah.
43:36Luckily I made it out and after 12 hours later I came out and, you know, the elbow was frozen,
43:44my knee was frozen, all my joint was frozen.
43:46I was crawling around on the top of the boat like golem, you know.
43:49It's an amazing, amazing story.
43:52But you know what, it's a testament, isn't it, to determination.
43:57Working his way up from dishwashing to running his restaurant empire,
44:02his appreciation for life is irresistible.
44:06We are the big mango family, Bill, if I may say.
44:10I take care of them, they in terms of take care of me, that's the nature of humans together.
44:15Yeah.
44:15It's amazing.
44:16Yeah.
44:17I couldn't, you know that song that David Burns?
44:20How did they get here?
44:21How did they get here?
44:22Yeah.
44:22Once in a lifetime.
44:23Once in a lifetime.
44:24That's my favorite song.
44:25That's, I'm telling you, it's incredible how I get here.
44:29Okay.
44:30Shall we dig in?
44:30Yeah, let's do it.
44:33Hang on.
44:33Let's make, get the salad.
44:35It might be warm in there.
44:36That's all right.
44:37That's all right.
44:37We're brave enough.
44:38I think so.
44:39Cheers.
44:40Cheers.
44:40Cheers.
44:49Oh.
44:52That is terrific.
44:54Behind the razzle-dazzle of Hoi An, there's a strength that reveals itself in the smiles,
45:04the cooking and the sewing, an entrepreneurial zeal, which is the real star of this place.
45:10I mean, never mind his terrific food.
45:12Chef Duke has had an extraordinary life.
45:15Despite all of that hardship, that turmoil, he's come through, he's emerged with something great.
45:25And in many ways, he's like an embodiment of the new Vietnam.
45:30Next time on Bill Bailey's Vietnam.
45:33Visitors who are afraid of narrow places don't even bother coming down here.
45:37Do you have this in a large?
45:38Big leg won't go.
45:40You can't hang about.
45:41Traffic wait for no men.
45:43It's bloody green, you n****!
46:07You.
46:10I won't do that.
46:33You.
46:33I mean, I don't know.
46:33Me.
46:34I, I.
46:34I.
46:34I, I.
46:35I.
46:36I.
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