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Pandora CEO on Tariff Impact, European Market, Lab Grown Diamonds, Prices
Bloomberg
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2 days ago
Category
🛠️
Lifestyle
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00:00
You reported second quarter earnings and your stock tumbled after your revenue missed analyst
00:05
estimates. What surprised you about the current backdrop? So we delivered eight percent organic
00:09
growth. We delivered three percent like for like. We had an eight percent like for like
00:14
growth in the U.S. So I have to say I'm quite surprised by this this big reaction from the
00:20
market. I mean we were a hair off. We reconfirmed the guidance for the year.
00:24
We reconfirmed the profitability of the group. So so actually Pandora is in a really good shape.
00:33
So so the reaction from the market I think is is is quite volatile actually. You did mention some
00:39
challenges in Europe and I'm curious as to which specific markets are seeing
00:44
more weakness versus those that are better positioned. So if we look back over the last
00:50
12 months there is no change in trajectory in our European business. The underlying business
00:57
continues to be either weak or strong. It's the same story as we've had in the prior quarters.
01:02
So overall Europe was plus one percent which you know in this context it looks like a pretty solid
01:07
number compared to my peers. My Iberian business continues to be on WG growth. Eastern Europe
01:13
continues very strongly. A number of other markets in Europe. UK we have a calendar shift because Mother's
01:19
day fell in a different quarter this year. So if you look at the first half number UK it's minus
01:24
three which is probably in lockstep with the market and similar to where we've been before.
01:29
France we've been having some issues that's been kind of cruising around six seven and negative
01:34
as the prior quarter. So there was no no change in trajectory there. The same goes for Italy. Germany
01:41
which has posted very very strong growth in the last couple of years and in the last three years we've
01:45
literally doubled that business. We were up against a baseline of 65 percent growth of quarter two in
01:52
2024. So there was never an expectation that we would surpass that. So but underlying that business
01:58
continues to be very healthy. So if I look at the structure of the business in Europe it is in in the
02:03
same shape that it's been for a while. So no no actual change there. You've already raised prices a few
02:09
times in the last 10 months. I'm wondering what you're thinking is on future price increases. So
02:15
we're not going to do any more this year. That's for sure. What remains to be discussed is obviously
02:22
the impact of the tariffs in the U.S. But I think we'll now have to see a little bit how the market
02:27
settles and then we'll go from there. But for the remainder of this year there is nothing else planned.
02:32
You've said that U.S. consumers will have to foot the bill for tariffs and I know that that's a moving
02:37
target. We don't have any certainty on this right now but I'm curious as to how you think about whether
02:42
or not you will pass on the full cost of tariffs maybe half of it less than half. What is the
02:46
discussion on that like? The situation is that most if not all jewelry makers in in the U.S. they import
02:55
from from Asia somewhere which means that we're all faced with the same let's say challenge of the
03:00
tariffs and how do you now deal with that. So I think that the conversation over the next I don't
03:05
know 12 to 24 months is going to be to watch how the market is moving. It's quite obvious that some
03:12
or all of these tariffs at one point will be be moved over to to the consumer's pocket. Is it going
03:19
to happen all in one go or in several iterations? That I don't know and I think the market is is probably
03:25
going to move in steps here. So we will have to watch the space and and then we'll react accordingly.
03:31
What continues to be very important for Pandora is our reason to be in the jewelry market is that we're
03:37
an affordable proposition. So that relative position cannot change in my mind. So therefore
03:44
we will have to be quite dynamic in our thought process on on how we ensure that the consumer still
03:49
views Pandora as a very good option for gifting or for themselves. Is Pandora considering moving any
03:55
production from Asia from places like Thailand to the U.S. in order to perhaps mitigate the impact
04:01
of tariffs. Well the answer to that question relies on two things. First of all wherever we move our
04:11
production it has to go into a place where I can find enough people that are familiar with the craft.
04:18
Okay and and where we source currently in in primarily in Thailand they have a long-standing
04:24
tradition of of this type of craft. As we've looked on on across the globe from a sourcing standpoint
04:31
we don't see that that tradition sits anywhere in in the North American continent not to the tune of
04:39
the amount of people that we need. For perspective we have roughly 15 000 people that are working in our
04:45
factories in Thailand. So there is no place in U.S. which could actually offer up that level of skill.
04:51
So so it's not like I'm moving a machine from one country to the other that would be a different
04:55
conversation. But here is a matter of finding the right skill. Then secondly of course if you find the
05:00
right skilled labor then it has to come at a competitive price which is incredibly important for us
05:06
since we are offering affordable jewelry we also need to then make jewelry in a very cost efficient manner.
05:13
So if I look kind of at the labor cost if I compare let's say the Asian region versus U.S. for this type
05:19
of labor if we now could find it U.S. is simply not competitive irrespective of the tariff levels.
05:27
So but as I said the first hurdle to overcome is to find enough skilled labor and and that somehow
05:33
doesn't work for us in North America. So right now there is no view that we would move production.
05:38
I want to ask about lab grown diamonds because that certainly has changed your industry quite a bit.
05:42
It's growing in popularity we know especially among younger consumers like Gen Z.
05:46
Do you see this as a permanent shift? What we have when it comes to lab grown
05:50
diamonds is the fact of the matter is a diamond is a diamond irrespective of whether it came from
05:55
the ground or whether we managed to to create this in labs is kind of so the outcome or the result
06:03
is a diamond. So it's the same. Now the diamonds that come from labs come with a very different cost
06:09
profile. So the value proposition on lab grown diamonds obviously challenges the norm from mine
06:17
diamonds and consumers are voting with their wallet. This is the long and short of it. And today there
06:23
are more lab grown loose stones sold in the U.S. than there are mined. So the consumer has already
06:29
voted in favor of lab grown diamonds. So the value proposition simply is superior and we should not lose
06:35
sight of that this is actually a technology revolution. And if you go back in the history of mankind
06:40
whenever we when humans innovate and find better solutions to the ones that were there before
06:46
consumers will move along at one point. So yes this is a permanent shift.
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