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In this edition of Epicurious 101, professional chef and culinary instructor Frank Proto demonstrates how to make the best single-crust and double-crust pies for Thanksgiving. Whether it’s for apple pie, pumpkin pie, or any delicious dessert, learn how to avoid soggy bottoms to achieve the perfect flaky texture every time.
Transcript
00:00When it comes to pie crust, there's really two main ways to go.
00:02You have a single crust, like your pumpkin pie.
00:05And then you have your double crust pies.
00:07We're talking about apple and blueberry, where there's a crust underneath and then a crust on top.
00:12Today I'm going to make one of each, and you'll see that the techniques vary slightly.
00:15But either way you go, it starts with the dough.
00:20A good pie crust is light and flaky, and it all starts with how you make your dough.
00:25First thing we do is add our flour.
00:27This is just all-purpose flour.
00:29Regular granulated sugar and some kosher salt.
00:31I'm going to use my fork here.
00:32Just kind of like get those ingredients mixed in.
00:35I'm going to add my fats.
00:36I have some butter, and the butter adds that nice buttery richness.
00:40It is chilled.
00:41And then lard.
00:42Lard adds an amazing texture to your dough.
00:45Basically, lard is rendered pig fat.
00:48And this is the fat that people used to use when they raise their own animals.
00:52It makes a really nice pie dough.
00:54Next thing I'm going to do is cut in our fat.
00:56When I say cutting in fat, we are basically going to break our fat up into small pea-sized
01:01pieces.
01:01Right now you can see it's super crumbly.
01:03And what I want to do is just kind of squeeze my fat into the flour.
01:07There are some specialized tools for cutting in.
01:10I personally like to use my hands.
01:12A lot of people are going to come at me in the comments and say, hey, your hands are too
01:16warm.
01:16You're melting that fat.
01:17As long as your ingredients are cold and you work with it quickly, hands are not an
01:21issue.
01:23If the butter is small, the lard is small, it's not going to melt out.
01:27It's actually going to give you that puff and that steam between the layers.
01:29And that's what we want for a good pie dough.
01:31If I try to put this into the dough, what's going to happen is all the fat's going to melt
01:36out.
01:36And you'll have like a void or an empty spot in your dough.
01:39You can see that the flour and the butter have formed nice kind of granules.
01:43And then I'm going to add my water.
01:44I like to use cold water.
01:46Cold water is going to make the fat so it doesn't melt.
01:48I'm just going to start to bring it together.
01:50Again, with this, you don't want to add too much water and you don't want to work it too
01:53much.
01:53The goal here is to add as little water as possible to bring it together.
01:57I think the recipe is about a half a cup.
01:59And what I usually say to my students, once you start seeing that it's not like dusty flour
02:04on the bottom, you're probably pretty close.
02:06Part of the reason I like using my hands when I add the water is that I can feel the dough.
02:11I can see what the moisture content is.
02:13I can say, oh, I feel it.
02:15It's going to stick together.
02:16I think I'm okay.
02:17I can stop with the water.
02:18So I'm going to dump it on my board.
02:19I'm going to do what I call the bulldozer.
02:21I'm just going to squeeze it this way, squeeze it this way.
02:24Just squeeze it.
02:25Really not working it.
02:26Push it down.
02:27Squeeze it together so that it holds together.
02:33Right now, my dough is not sticking to the table.
02:36If it's sticking, what's the problem?
02:37You have too much water.
02:39If you want to avoid a tough pie crust, work it as little as possible and don't add any
02:44more flour.
02:44If we add more flour here, it's definitely going to dry that crust out.
02:48It's not going to be nice and flaky and tender.
02:51And if you work this too much, you're going to form that gluten and that gluten is going
02:55to make it tough.
02:55I'm going to cut my dough in half.
02:57When we cut in our fat, what we're looking to do is form layers.
03:00What happens is they have two layers of flour and then little pieces of butter or fat in
03:04between and when that butter or fat get really hot and steamy, we're going to get a little
03:08push up there.
03:09And that's going to give us those flaky layers.
03:12And that's what we want for a good pie dough.
03:14When you do pie doughs, chilling in between and letting it rest is another crucial step
03:19to what we're doing.
03:20When you let your dough rest, it relaxes the gluten.
03:23And when we bake this pie dough, it will not shrink up.
03:25Gluten is basically strands of protein that hold our baked goods together and it makes
03:29our baked goods chewy.
03:31And in a pie crust, we don't want it to be chewy.
03:32We want it to be flaky.
03:34So we're walking a tightrope of just enough gluten to hold it together and a lot of butter
03:38to make it flaky.
03:39And they can go right into the fridge for at least a half hour.
03:45So I've taken my dough out of the fridge for about five minutes.
03:48We don't want it to be warm, but I don't want it straight out of the fridge.
03:51So basically what I'm going to do when I unwrap it, I'm going to dust this with a little
03:54bit of flour.
03:55We don't want to go crazy with this, right?
03:57We just want to add enough flour so it doesn't stick to our surface.
04:00And I'm going to take my roller.
04:01I'm not going to let it spin.
04:03I'm going to just push down.
04:05Give it a turn before I roll it out.
04:09If it's too hard, you'll see that I'm starting to get cracks here.
04:12We can fix those.
04:12It's not a problem.
04:13But when I press down on it like that, it's starting the process of softening some of
04:17that butter so it's easier to roll.
04:20Rolling back and forth, trying to get it as uniform as possible.
04:24The corner turn is going to help with that uniformity.
04:26And then we're going to transfer it to my pan.
04:28So what I'm going to do is I'm going to fold it in quarters, put the point of that quarter
04:32right in the middle of the pan, and then unfold it into the pan.
04:35Because I'm going to push it down into the pan, letting everything excess hang over.
04:40My pie dough is in the pan.
04:41It's looking great.
04:42I'm going to put this in the fridge and chill it thoroughly and use it for a single crust.
04:46With your single crust pies, it sounds just like it is.
04:52It's a single crust on the bottom of the pie.
04:54It's like your pumpkin pies.
04:55First thing we need to do is dock our dough.
04:58Dock, it's a complicated word.
05:00All it means is poke some holes in it.
05:01The holes are going to be there to let some excess steam out.
05:04We don't want our dough to start to bubble up.
05:07We're going to fold under to get a nice even crust.
05:10We'll go all the way around because we want a nice crust on this.
05:14And then just give it a little squeeze.
05:15I want to have that one edge.
05:17And then we get our fingers in here and just crimp like you're walking with your fingers.
05:23For blind baking, I need two pieces of equipment.
05:26I need some parchment paper and some pie weights.
05:29You don't want to use wax paper here because then your pie will taste like crayons.
05:33You don't have to spend the money on ceramic pie weights.
05:35I use beans at home.
05:36Unless you like going to the dentist on an emergency or the emergency room, do not eat these.
05:40So basically with a single crust, you're going to par bake it or blind bake it.
05:44And that means we're going to cook it before we put the filling in.
05:47Right, we're going to get a nice brown crust for that.
05:48We don't want to get a soggy bottom.
05:50So what I like to do before I put my parchment in is give it a little crumple.
05:56This kind of softens up the parchment and makes it a little more pliable.
06:00And it'll fit in there better.
06:02And then the pie weights go right in.
06:04And what I want to do with the pie weights is even them out.
06:08The pie weights are going to hold the dough down so it doesn't puff up and we don't get
06:11any like large voids underneath.
06:13So I'm going to put this in the oven for about 20 minutes.
06:15To the oven!
06:17The pie dough has blind baked, but it is not done.
06:20What I'm going to do is take my pie weights out.
06:22And you can take them out right in your parchment and put them aside.
06:26So my pie weights are out.
06:27But this needs to go back in the oven for about 8 to 10 minutes.
06:30We want it to get nice and lightly golden brown before we put our filling in.
06:34So let's go over to the oven.
06:37Look at that!
06:38We're at a really good point here.
06:40You can see that we have a very light brown on it.
06:42It is set in the center and that's what we want.
06:45Not crispy just yet, but it's getting there.
06:47And now we're ready for our filling.
06:48Whenever I bake a pie, I like to put it on a sheet tray.
06:51This will stop any spillover from burning to the bottom of my oven.
06:54It is also a lot easier to carry.
06:56Let's get our custard filling in.
06:57I like to fill it as high as I could possibly go without it spilling over.
07:02We're going to put this into the oven at 350 for about 40 to 45 minutes until our custard is just set.
07:07You can see right now it's super liquidy.
07:09What we're looking for when it's done is that it's slightly wiggly in the center but set on the sides.
07:14The crust is going to go from like this pale brown to a nice golden brown.
07:19So a double crust pie or a filled pie has a crust on the bottom and a crust on top.
07:26We're going to seal that filling in and get a nice golden brown crust on top.
07:30With a double crust, there is no blind baking.
07:33I do change the temperatures in the oven a little.
07:35I like to go a little bit higher in the beginning and then lower it down so that we get some of that nice browning in the beginning of the bake.
07:42There are some similarities between a single crust and a double crust.
07:45And one of the similarities is that I want to dock this dough so that we don't get any steam from underneath.
07:50Filling goes in.
07:51Today I'm going to make an apple pie, probably one of my favorite ones out there.
07:56I like to pre-cook my filling and chill it completely.
07:59It's nice and thickened.
08:00That's what I want with this.
08:01I have my egg wash.
08:02I'm going to brush this around the edge and this is going to glue my top and bottom together.
08:07I'm going to take it and just whip it right on top.
08:09So now what I'm going to do is I'm going to push down so that our pie crust sticks to each other.
08:15And then we're going to take this and fold it under the bottom crust.
08:20Not only does the egg wash hold the crust together, but the folding under also helps with keeping all that filling in.
08:27And then I'm going to do a little more pleating so it looks a little bit better.
08:31And then we can take our fingers, push, push in.
08:36Now that we have it crimped, I want to put some vent holes in.
08:39I have a knife.
08:41I'm just going to put nice five little vent holes in.
08:43This is going to allow any steam to come out.
08:46If we don't do vent holes, I'm not going to say it's going to explode, but we might get a lot of doming.
08:51And what I really want is the pie crust to be sitting on top of the filling.
08:55So the egg wash here is not just for sticking our pie together, it's also going to give us a little bit of shine.
09:01So I'm going to take the egg wash and I'm going to brush it on my pie and I'm going to put a little sugar on.
09:06I like the sugar and egg wash on top just because it makes our pie a little shiny, a little sparkly.
09:10I like the flavor and adding a little more sugar to something pretty much never hurts it.
09:14All right, oven set at 425, let's go in.
09:19And that is how you make a flaky, buttery, golden brown single crust.
09:24And that is a double crust pie.
09:26I think it looks great.
09:27I think it's brown, it's delicious, it's a little shiny from my sugar and egg mixture.
09:32I really cannot wait for this one.
09:35So I'm going to let this cool for a little while and then we can dig in.
09:40So look at this slice of pie, it's gorgeous.
09:42Nice brown crust.
09:43The bottom is nice and firm and cooked through.
09:46The edges, brown, crispy and flaky.
09:50I don't think you can get a better slice of pie than this.
09:53Let's get a piece from the back over here and some of that crunchy crust.
09:59And I'm going to get a little of this.
10:03The flakiness you see here is thanks to the fact that we took our time.
10:06We let the dough rest in between rollings.
10:09We used cold ingredients.
10:10We didn't overwork the dough.
10:12All of that focus made us have a nice crispy, flaky, delicate crust.
10:16So look at this slice of pie.
10:20Look at it.
10:21It's just like beautiful.
10:22The apples are holding together, but the crust.
10:24It's a little softer in the middle on the bottom, but the edges are super crispy.
10:28You can see that crispiness.
10:29You can hear it.
10:31Tap, tap, tap.
10:32It is firm and delicious.
10:34It's everything you want in a slice of apple pie.
10:36Going in.
10:38Of course, you've got to crack it from the front there.
10:41A little bit of that ice cream.
10:46The crust actually has a little bit of savoriness in it because of the lard.
10:49And I think that goes really well with the apple.
10:51All the small steps we took along the way is the reason this pie crust is so good.
10:56Pie crust does not need to be scary.
10:57I think that people who are pie nerds tend to scare people off.
11:01It is not that hard.
11:02A few simple techniques, a few things to remember as you make your pie crust.
11:06And it's going to come out beautiful every time.
11:08The more you bake, the more you practice, the better your crust is going to be.
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